PROBLEMS SEWING FACINGS? The 3 main reasons your facings look terrible and how to fix it!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2021
- There are 3 main problems that we all have with sewing facings, I will help you backtrack your sewing process and find the cause of these issues with sewing your facing!
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What is/was your biggest struggle sewing those dreaded facings??
🧵 If you like this content and are ready to take your sewing further, I invite you to join me at Vintage Sewing School www.vintagesewingschool.com/
Do you stay stitch as soon as you cut out? I try to as soon as I’m going to sew a project but my facings always seem to be to small... but I typically cut a bunch of projects at once and then go through them.
Do you stay stitch the facing and garment or just garment?
What has recently happened to me is that when I turn my facing to the inside, there are puckers at the armhole and neckline. I did the stay stitching first. I checked to see if the pattern pieces lined up, and they did. I notched the corners and made slits in the curved areas. I think maybe there is too much fabric rolled up underneath. I'm not sure. I am definitely going to understitch even though the pattern doesn't call for it, but I have to figure out these puckers first. Also, now that it is sewn, the facing seems too big for the inside of the dress. It doesn't lay down flat. Thanks for your help! You truly are amazing!
I just want to thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us. I'm almost 60 years young and just starting on my sewing journey. You have taught me, and countless others, so much. You seem like such a wonderful woman and I am so very glad I found you. I am forever grateful to you. Much love from Texas 💘
For us close to 60 year olds who remember how well and differently clothes fit in the 1970s to 1990s, you will LOVE learning to sew. The first time you put on a well made, well fitted garment you will never shop RTW the same way again. Enjoy the journey. (love to Texas from California)
Aww! ❤ It makes my day to hear this. I'm so glad that you've gotten into sewing and learning so much. I hope you get to sew all of the clothes that you dream of!
one tip I have is never ever ever put a garment on a hanger between sewing sessions, because the collar will get larger due to the weight of the garment. even if you staystiched, I made this mistake once. I had to shrink the collar back with steam and iron, but it took a lot of time correcting this and making the collar facing fit.
Good tip!!
I never thought of that!
The effect of fabric weight, even while sewing, is a topic not discussed enough by anyone. Good on you!!!
You are so right. I have a large plastic, lidded box that I use to hold all that I have for a particular project: my pattern and pieces and buttons and zipper and thread, etc all folded and laid gently into the box until my next sewing session.
Oh that makes sense! Wish I had known this before making my current dress lol!!
Stay stitching & under stitching is a MUST!!
Absolutely!
I learned to stay-stitch toward the center. For example, for a full frontal neck edge facing and garment edge- stay-stitch from shoulder toward the center. Stop at the center. Stay-stitching is a must. Additionally, when laying out facings, pay attention to pattern markings and lay the facing with the arrows sitting properly on the straight of grain line. Measuring from at least 2 places on the the arrows to the selvage edge will assure that a pattern piece is properly placed on the straight of grain. Don't just slap that pattern piece on the fabric in any old manner. Many new sewists don't learn the proper technique of laying out pattern pieces, and this error can affect the final garment fit.
Hmm...there have been so many facing failures...my favorite is when I sew it on the wrong side🤭 Bias binding to the rescue!!! Lol!!!
I have experienced all of those issues in my younger years. I have saved this video so that I can recite and remember the steps. Thankyou for sharing your skills. I’m 70 and am learning again.
That was revisit these steps!
Me too. I am 72 and am relearning everything I used to know. I’m grateful for TH-cam.
understitching and ditch stitching is a lifesaver for me!
Evelyn, what an amazing teacher you are. Listening and watching your videos helps us home sewers to get a more professional finish on our garments, also troubleshooting the problems when they occur. I am 68 and retired, so I am going to work through all your videos learning to make my clothes fit better and have a more finished look. Thank you Evelyn. With best wishes Toni
My biggest struggles with facings are them showing excessively or in obvious and weird ways, and that facings that cover a lot of ground, so to speak rumple up and fold over while being worn.
You're heaven sent! Last night I cut the fabric for a dress pattern with facings for the armholes. I attempted this dress a year ago and gave up because the facings turned out awful! Your video came just in time!
I'm glad to hear that I hope you get it out again and give it another try! You've got this! ✂️🪡
I usually don't use the facing peaces that comes with the patterns. After I altered my pattern I trace my facing parts from my changed pieces. Way easier than having to do alt the alterations again and finding out that something doesn't fit. And they also often not the right shape or are to small.
I bought a blouse because of the beautiful fabric; it was a cheap blouse and the facing kept creeping out when I wore it. Thanks to you (and my new covid-sewing hobby), I have the confidence to put it through my machine! 😊
How had it turned out?
@@user-himenes perfectly!!
@@Inanna08 I'm so happy! You honestly gave me so much motivation
One of my aha moments with facings was learning the value of proper pressing and your tutorial on understitching was a real eye-opener. It had never occurred to me to take a catch stitch at the dart. Thanks for that new tip.
Proper grading (trimming of seam allowances) can also help facings lie flat, especially when you have under stitched.
would you trim the seam before under stitching?
@@kckazcoll1 yes, I think that would be easiest. The key is to leave the seam allowance on the bodice front longer than the one on the facing.
@@elizabethfletcher3530 Do I use pinking shears when I grade my seams? I have such a hard time remember which part gets the larger seam allowance and which one I’m supposed to trim.
I find this this difficult especially with thick fabrics. Last year i tried to sew a winter coat and i didn’t want a bulky neckline so i trimmed a lot. It turned out so bad that i put this project aside.
@@stonecrestquilt you might not want to pink the edges if you would see it through from the right side when wearing it (pinking might show through if you press it very hard). I usually have to almost try on the garment to figure out which seam allowance should be trimmed smaller. When you are wearing a garment, the longer edge should be the one resting the most to the “outside”, when you’re wearing it.
When I sew facings I always start stitching on the middle and finish on the shoulders. I think it helps in some cases.
I am glad you pointed that out. Directional sewing is something I
learned several years ago and it really made a difference in the even-ness of my seams.
I sew from the outside to the inside of the garment x
My biggest problem has been not using the correct interfacing. After the garmet had been worn and washed several times, the bought interfacing material (not real cloth) started falling apart.
Mother always used old white cotton bed sheets to interface with; because, it was free, it was already on hand, it was usually heavy enough to do the job, and it did not come apart in the wash (because it was real fabric). Mother was right on this issue when sewing woven fabrics.
You’re right, and that why I use fabric interfacing, not the stuff we had in home ec years ago.
Using old bedsheets for interfacing is brilliant. I took home ec long enough ago that we used non fusible interfacing--I had to learn to use fusible properly.
She sounds very resourceful! Interfacing can take many forms other than the common iron on interfacing we find in the shops today. I love you have found the thing that works for you!
I only discovered you few days ago. I am following many YT channels of young ladies sewing stuff, most of them are from "costubers" community.
But discovering your channel is a blessing for me, I started sewing only few months ago and already I learned more in few days of watching your channel than I did in months before.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge for free here.
I cannot stress enough how much discovering your channel means to me. Unfortunately I honestly cannot add to my budget monthly sub to Vintage Sewing School, that is why I am grateful even more that you are sharing so much knowledge here.
I often hear in other sewing ladies videos they say "go get sewing lesson in real life", I don't think they realize that in some countries it is not that easy. In Poland it is really not a good situation, sewing here is treated like some kind of secret knowledge that should be kept secret. There are no good sewing teachers here, at least I haven't found one. Most sewing courses are just to get money out of naive people, they are not really teaching anything useful. I have some friends who spent a lot of money on sewing courses because they don't know English and they are so frustrated, because they feel like they got robbed.
Oh wow. I’ve been sewing for 2.5 years and this video gave me huge “blast from the past” moments to some of the first big 4 patterns I made 😂 I know all of these tips now but back then, sooooo many gaping necklines and I just assume it was something anatomically weird about me.
I learned to sew when I was about 8 and sewed a lot of my clothes, I'm now 65. I thought I was an intermediate to advanced sewer. Oh my gosh, I have learned so much from you! Thank you for sharing!
I was literally sewing facings last night. I have used that pattern before and still it took me almost 2 hours to just get facings done. Your video is just so in time and helpful
Truing the pattern, stay stitching, sewing seams around the curves (good curves are hours and yards of practice); and stay stitching are all equal number ones for me when it comes to nice facings. My eureka moment was when I mastered stay stitching, it really makes a difference in how a facing or placket lays.
Another trick is I trace and cut my pattern pieces rather than pin and cut. When I pin it is too easy to have pattern pieces distort to different lengths, or sew unequally.
I love the advice you give because it reminds those who sew that it is not always a quick process to make a nice garment. 😊
I also trace, I just do not trust myself to not pull on the fabric or have it move around while I cut.
It doesn't matter as much when I trace because I can just trace again, gently erase, etc.
Of course, thinking that all the extra steps were unnecessary....but after many fails, and redo's, you see what does work. I am always having to adjust patterns, and the facings, of course, never fit...so your suggestion of making your own is brilliant. I serge my facing edges now for a smoother, less bulky finish. The first thing we had to sew in school was a sleeveless top, with a zipper, neck and sleeve facings, and a head scarf with Ric rac trim. Mine was this God awful green cotton, lol. It was cheap, maybe 50 cents a yard in those days, 1967.
The first woven fabric top I made had a facing and from watching your videos I knew to not skip the staystitching, understitching and ditch stitching and my top turned out so crisp and neat!
Hi, Evelyn! I have been sewing for over 50 years. But, as we all know, sewing for over 50 years does not equate to knowing HOW to sew properly. I learn from you. When my life settles more, I may join your school. You have such a neat way of teaching. Do you have videos for the sewing school? I am sure you would not be able to do live classes with folks all over the world! :) Are they accessible anytime you want to do them? Are there quizzes, etc., to determine the student's progression? So many questions. The thing that made my facings much better was the steps you mentioned. I learned them from watchin TV shows on sewing. To do the under stitching and the tack downs. And, of course pressing as you go. That has to be one of the most important things to do in sewing.
Learning to block fuse really improved my facings. It uses a little more interfacing, but the results are much better.
Great! This is a really useful technique for fine and drappy fabrics too!
@@Evelyn__Wood Definitely with drapey or loosely woven fabrics. Nothing gets the chance to stretch out of shape.
I learned to cut the facing pieces using the actual piece that calls for it. Ran into many facing patterns that didn't fit. Thank you for the stay stitching trick! I always ignored that and now I know why things came out wonky!
I have done that with plackets or facings that I was too lazy to true--it takes the same amount of time, ha ha.
Discovering that facings are meant to be an exact match to that part of the pattern. Careful pressing of them to not stretch them out.
Over the years I’ve developed a way of holding the facing fitting to allow for the curve. This being after it’s been pinned as you describe.
However, once the sides and notches have been pined you can lay each ‘quarter’ section on a ham to ease the curve around and pin in place.
That's a good technique!
Hams are so useful !
My main issue is getting the interfacing piece and the fabric facing piece to line up. Never do. Some one suggested cutting the fabric pieces and tracing them to the interfacing before cutting the interfacing out. Not tried it yet but seems like a sensible suggestion
I've done that and it works well. Another thing I've done is baste/pin the fabric and interfacing together, then cut out both layers in one go.
If you are using a fusible interfacing, one trick is to interface a rectangle of the fabric and then cut out the facing pattern piece. I have done that with limp rayon.
You could also try block fusing as well!
@@user-mv9tt4st9k That's a really brilliant idea!
@@user-mv9tt4st9k
That's what I do, as well. Block fusing is so much less fiddly, then fusing already cut collar pieces.
Also means, that you can then easily and precisely mark your pattern pieces before cutting, because unlike many fabrics, interfacing tends to take marks very well.
Although I should maybe add, that using Burda patterns (no in-built seam allowance), I mark at the actual stitching line and then add seam allowance by 'eyeballing' as I cut.
And that makes a difference in precision as well, I believe. Especially, when it comes to hitting corners very, precisely.
I really prefer this method for precision sewing (anything more tailored), although I get that already added seam allowances are very handy on more forgiving garments.
Perfectly explained as usual. Thank you so much for all the great advice you give to us ❤️ When it comes to stitch in the ditch in order to anchor the facing, I find it easier to sew by hand, so I can perfectly control the alignment of both layers. When I was a beginner, I used to believe that I was bad at using my machine because I would often prefer to sew some parts of the garment by hand (attaching sleeves, sewing the zipper, sewing the intersections where there are many layers crossing each other...). But then, I read the book Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer, where she explains the importance of hand sewing ... and I realized sewing a lot of things by hand was not at all a bad thing and could even be better in many cases.
I enjoy making Hawaiian style shirts for my husband. The facing is always off. Your tips have helped-I will slow down and really follow the instructions to the letter. Also checking UNDER STITCHING right now!
I've always been sure to staystitch the neck pieces but I never even thought of also staystitching the armholes. Thank you!
i always double check the pattern pieces of facing ,and more often than not make my own pattern pieces of facing knowing they will fit . excellent tutorial thank you
Ooh Ooh, I know this one!!! Before watching I'm going to say: not understitching, not clipping curves, and not tacking down to shoulder seams.
Lol, I was sort of right. 😁
When I first opened this I thought 'I don't have issues with facings!' Then I watched the video....actually all of those problems I had. I actually thought it was normal for the neckline to pull away and for the facing not to match up with the garment. I do stay stitch but probably stretched the fabric first. 🙄 Great info Evelyn! Thanks.
Even with inderstitching I still have a problem with facing coming up. This is even with RTW garments. Only way I've found is to stitch them down more as invisibly as possible in discreet places.
I always tack my facings. I have a RTW blouse in my repair pile that needs its facings tacked. It is so annoying.
Definitely need that ditch-stitch and tacking stitches right!
yes you are so right when you talk about all the sewing steps needed to have a successful facing result. When I learned to sew in school, our teacher made sure we understood them -- I have to say that stay-stitching is the most important thing to remember to do after you cut out your garment. That and keeping your garment relatively flat to keep any stretching or distortion from happening before you reach the completion steps (like hemming) for your garment. Thank you for taking the time to make this - it will help many sewers of all skill levels.
Hi, my pattern instructs to sew the shoulder seam before sewing the facing. It didn't tell to stay stitch. So at what step should I stay stitch? Just after cutting, or after finishing the shoulder seams?
Realizing I need to take my time and not rush has helped me with facings . Armhole facings are still confusing to certain degree but I did my first armhole facing yesterday
LOL that is my general lesson about sewing in general. Trying to finish quickly makes for bad results.
I agree it's something you really need to take your time with, slow down, sew properly!
I'm a novice at best. I haven't had any experience with interfacing, and thanks to this video, I'll probably never have a problem!
I'm a real newbie to the world of sewing, I've only had my beautiful sewing machine a couple of weeks, but I've made some cushions, a scrunchie, a wristband pin cushion and I'm on the last stages of a quilted sewing machine mat. Who knew quilting was soo intricate?! I'm loving watching and learning from your videos, thank you Evelyn! I'm 40, but I'm so glad I found this new hobbie/passion now, I've got so many ideas and have already invested in a few patterns. Like you, I have a real passion for vintage clothing styles, the 50's particularly and I dream of dresses I'll make that I can't buy in shops. 🥰❤❤❤✂️🧵📍❤❤❤ I'm learning so much.... pre wash fabric, facings, under stitching, making a muslin mock up, etc, etc. I'm trying to be like a sponge and soak up all this knowledge to put into my first garment, the first of many I hope! Thank you!! Love from Surrey, England 😘💋❤
Choosing the correct interfacing to iron on in the facing was a game changer. I’m still not great at it but much improved.
And it's all about one small improvement at a time, your on the right track! 😄
I just started school. I looooove sewing!! I’m a novice. I’m going to drink all this info in.. thanks for sharing! I love vintage!!
Not matching edges have been my biggest issue. I’m certain that it was a shrinkage problem as the fabric was a cheap flannel
I prewash my flannels on the hottest water cycle, regular jeans setting and a hot dryer. Snip the corners of the flannel before you wash it(this tip will save your sanity lol). Then iron it with spray sizing and dry iron. Flannel is wonderful to work with and ages to a super soft fabric over time.
hi Evelyn, I self drafted a facing for a top made out of a linen cotton blend. The interfacing that I used melted when I pressed the garment after washing and the fabric itself was prone to stretching, especially on the bias cut edges. Therefore the facing does not sit flat in spite of the under-stitching. So I have learned to immediately do my stay stitching, use a sew-in interfacing for an unstable fabric and be really careful to not stretch the area while sewing. Thanks for your tips :)
Hi Evelyn. Yes stay stitching, yes trimming, yes under stitching. Take your time, and I agree with you about the facing pieces on the pattern occasionally being inaccurate. I'm becoming more in favour of cutting my own bias strip to finish armholes, and sometimes necklines too. Love from NZ x 🧵 x
I, too, cut bias strips. I really don’t like facings.
Bias facings are one of my very favourite finishes too!
Such great information! Thank you 😊
I love your programs. I am learning before I make my daughters wedding dress. Thank you.
That blouse is the most flattering garment I have ever seen her wear.
Good points! Many thanks 😊
This video turned up right as I was about to try facings for the first time! Looks like stay-stitching is my new pressing: something I didn't know about that's about to change my sewing!
Thank you Evelyn for being so generous with your time and for being such a great and detailed instructor♡.
👈 skipped the stay stitching 😞 Thank you very much for posting these videos! They have been very helpful and encouraging to me, especially when I don't know where to begin troubleshooting a problem!
Another awesome tutorial! Thanks for the inspiration!
I always learn a lot watching you, evelyn
I'm very happy to hear it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for outlining all of this. The understitching is a must. So is the interfacing (as I learned from some of your previous videos). BTW, your hair is totally cute in this video.
Haha thank you! I'm not sure I'm sold on the straight natural hair, but I'm kind of in a 'in between hairstyles seeing what works' kind of phase!
I’m learning so much from you ,Thank you 🙏
Very helpful information.
Omg I wish I saw this earlier. Answered all my facing frustrations!
This is so helpful thank you for sharing this
Thank you wonderful learning curve.
Great tips! Thanks
My sewing improved so much after your stay stitching video. Facings can be difficult, but I love them. I would like a video about pockets!
Yay! I'm really glad to hear that you're sewing improve so much from just one little tip it's amazing right!
Thanks for another very helpful video.
OMG! I love your tips so much. I've been struggling with this for a long time ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Evelyn you are a life saver!! 💗
I needed this !! Sewing with linen and come across this very issue.
Thank you for sharing I definitly learned something new 😊❤️
Actually had the experience recently of a too short facing pattern piece. I always pre-shrink fabric, staystitch, and under stitch, so I knew it was the pattern piece!
What has helped is first realizing that not interfacing is equal - using the right weight helps the facing stay in place. Next - I recently started using a certain indie designer’s pattern and pretty much her first step is taking any piece with that curve and staystitch to prevent stretching during the project. It really makes a difference. Do it ASAP minimizes the risk of an accidental tug.
love this thanks!
Could you possibly talk about the theory behind managing fabric in a future video? You often talk about how an experienced sewist handles fabric or ease as they feed fabric through the machine. Maybe it's already part of vintage sewing school. At any rate, thank you for another great video!
I'm excited you asked about this! I think this is probably the most important skill you can learn to have to sew better. But yet I think it would be the least popular TH-cam titled video ever because it sounds boring and not what people 'want to hear' is the trick 🤣 But I think is the key to sewing well! You're on the right track already, and yes, in VSS every tutorial and lesson has emphasis on this! 😃
@@Evelyn__Wood I can't speak for others, but I'd be really interested in a video just about handling fabric as you sew. I think if you just kept the intro very short and dove right in on what to do, what not to do, and why, even people who don't sew and just want to keep their clothes nice might like it.
@@Evelyn__Wood Can barely sew a button myself, but I know there's a lot of useful details in handling materials that beginners are completely unaware of. I'd watch ;) if You'd ever like to make that video :)
@@kobaltkween same
That is a great idea! I'd watch :-))
Great video. Thank you.
I love you listed all the different reasons could cause going wrong!! Thank you!!
Thank you so much!!! I’m so happy I found you! What a gem you are!!!!
Thanks for some great tips! Lora
I didn’t put 2-and-2 together (no pun intended) that interfacing is the inside of facings 🤦🏼♀️
These tips are excellent!
"Disasterpiece" is an amazing word and I'm stealing it into my vocabulary immediately, thank you.
Best channel on sewing. Thank you yo!
Thank you so much for sharing
What you say always makes good sense Evelyn ! I usually catch all your videos, love listening to them. I think its down to lockdowns, not being able to get things etc, but I have just lost interest in making clothes any more. So best leave it alone for the time being ! I like to see someone else sewing instead. Will still be watching your videos, thanks for sharing.
I like your tutorials/sewing hacks. Your videos really helped me in my sewing journey. Please do more video with your sewing projects.
I don't want to have to deal with interfacing but i think i'm gonna have to, my facing rotated a bit with the sewing. love this vid and will be watching more. THANK YOU!!!
OMG! I didn't realize that understitching and stay stitiching were different. Thank you so much for this!
Thank you for all of these points. I've had all of these problems with facings.
OMG you got the navy tassels! Awesome 👏 🤩
Oh my gosh, the stretched neckline! I've done that. Thanks for the tips!
And I see you have found a navy tassel to go with your peasant top! Fabulous! ❤
Thank you so much for sharing all these nuggets of sewing. I’m just starting out and I’m learning so much. You’ve given me the confidence to properly make my own clothes. ✌🏻💖🧵
Speaking from a busty lady's perspective and her experience with stretchy RTW garments, sometimes the problem may be wrong sizing. Facings always flip for me if the size is not taking my bosom into account. So "measure twice, cut once" and learn FBA! :)
I will use all of these to troubleshoot my facings! I didn’t know they were that bad til now 😂
Thank you. This was very helpful. I haven't sewn since High School. I'm starting easy with an apron. I took an apron I liked and made a pattern out of it. I'm an old lady. They did not have serger sewing machines when I was learning to sew. I need to make a simple neck and arm hole facing. All these things you discussed I had trouble with when I was young trying to learn to sew. I think I will make a bias tape facing from the fabric and use all the techniques you discussed here. Wish me luck!
right on time! still learning here and my next project will have facings. thank you for the video
My pleasure!! Happy sewing!
I've never used facing so this was helpful to know ahead of time.
Perfect timing! I just started work on my first garment with facing! Maybe it will not turn out so bad with your tips 😊 thank you ❤️
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I needed this video so badly! ❤️❤️❤️❤️ I know I can always count on you! 😂
Much of this I knew having sewn for 50 years, but I'm very curious about understitching. That sounds new! Thanks for all that you share. I always learn something new.
I have a sewing book from the 1970s and the author said that if there is an error in the garment construction it is the fault of the dressmaker/seamstress and not the pattern. Personally this is a rubbish statement because as you said the pattern may not be correct, hence always making a toile/mock up/prototype. I have made up a couple of 1960s dresses in a toile (not the actual garment) and on both always had problems with the neck facings not being the same size. On the second one I undid the stitching and redid the facing by making it a bit longer (I think it was 1 cm on both pieces, so 2 cms total) and it fitted perfectly. I'm not sure if that was a good thing to do or not (please tell me either way) but before I was struggling because when pinning it was not sitting well. The reason for not making them up was due to the neck facing and I was worried I would damage the fabric.
So, ALWAYS MAKE A TOILE/MOCK UP/PROTOTYPE FIRST. Please save yourself the hassle and tears of not damaging you intended fabric because it is not worth it.
The j you so much for sharing your vast knowledge
I made all mistakes, thank you i look forward to creating perfect necklines
Mind blowing tips 💡🤯🤯🤯🤯
I’ve been sewing for years and I very seldom have a good experience doing facings 😛, thank you 🙏