So for anyone watching this video as a reference: The dot on the Kickstarter ratchet gear is supposed to be offset with the marking on the shaft by one spline. They are not supposed to be lined up.
Great video, I've rebuilt 2 motors using this series. Couple torque corrections: Locking lever at 1:03 should be torqued to 4.4 lb-ft and the clutch hub torque at 8:45 should be 75 lb-ft. (2009 and earlier 300s)
Also, put the locking lever washer the right way around, the bevelled edge MUST be facing the locking lever, if not, the lever can bind against the flat side of the washer and the lever cant put enough pressure on the shift drum locator unit - your bike will jump out of gear and this wrecks the dogs on the gears.
The older KTM\Husky OEM repair manuals incorrectly call out locking lever screw as a M6 (torque: 10 Nm, 7.3 ft-lb, 88 in-lb) but it is a M5 screw (torque: 6 Nm, 4.4 ft-lb, 53 in-lb). The newer 250/300 OEM manuals corrected this mistake. Because of the OEM manual mistake, I also stripped the locking lever case threads and used a M5 Time-Sert to repair the case threads.
Great series of vids, would be nice to include the fitment of seals for the countershaft, sprocket end. Now, Please do the same set of vids for my Beta 300 2017 Xtrainer.. I cant find any vids for that!
The older KTM\Husky OEM repair manuals incorrectly call out locking lever screw as a M6 (torque: 10 Nm, 7.3 ft-lb, 88 in-lb) but it is a M5 screw (torque: 6 Nm, 4.4 ft-lb, 53 in-lb). The newer 250/300 OEM manuals corrected this mistake. Because of the OEM manual mistake, I also stripped the locking lever case threads and used a M5 Time-Sert to repair the case threads.
According to the 2014 Husky repair manual (page 155) the kick starter needs to installed with a one tooth offset. The kick starter on my TE300 would not work correctly when the timing marks were lined up as shown in this video. Talked to another KTM/Husky engine builder and he confirmed that the manual is correct about the kick starter alignment offset for the 2004 - 2016 250/300 models.
Had the same issue on my 2012 300 EXC. if i installed it with the timing marks lined up, when the kick starter was operated the extra tension in the spring caused it to deform and catch on the clutch basket making a horrible noise as I started it and the drag made it harder to start on the kick starter.
Just would like to add that you didn’t specify that there’s a “spacer” with an o ring that deals the oil seal behind the front sprocket. Don’t forget to put that in before the sprocket (from the outside)
I appreciate the video. However in regards to the shift drum locking lever you stated 7.4 LBFT= 10.03 NM. It’s actually 6NM which is 4.4 LBFT. My bad, I should have verified because it seemed like alot, but I ended up stripping out the threads. Now I need to heli coil it. Hope this saves someone else some work
I stripped my threads too. I tapped the hole out to m6 and drilled the locking lever spacer sleeve out to 6mm and installed it all. I torqued it to 10nm and later on discovered that because it is now thinner the drilled out spacer sleeve deformed slightly where the locking lever sits, this caused it to bind on the locking lever so the spring did not hold the locking lever against the shift star with enough pressure and it would jump out of gear, in doing so it damaged the dogs on several gears in the gearbox. I had to rebuild the gearbox AGAIN. Next time around I made an M6/M5 stud for the locking lever from an old M6 engine bolt, 20mm of m6 thread then I turned down a section of it and put an M5 thread on it 11mm long so I could use the original size locking lever spacer sleeve and avoid the deformation and binding I experienced before. Now I just need to sort out the badly machined primary and secondary shafts that caused the original gearbox issue!!!! Man, I hate my KTM
@@Subjectno23 So...manual shows the locking lever at 10 nm....yep, mine stripped at 10 nm, got a helicoil, tried the fishing line trick to bust off the tab,...didn't quite work but the helicoil seems to be holding. This part sucks! That spring has so much tension, yet a 5mm bolt to hold it and the manual spec is wrong...ugh. 2014 KTM300 xC here
I have a random question about an older ktm rfs motor it’s an 08 450 and I’m having some up shifting issues about 3-5 shift is hard even with boots any insight on where to start looking?
Haloo Congratulations on your work! When I force the first cube it jumps and enters continuously! What do you think could be to blame? Ktm exc 300 2012. Tanks
Any advice on what happens if I get far enough along I put the shifting mechanism back in and I can't run through the gears? That would be great if you guys could go into more detail on re-assembling the transmission shafts and do it slowly so we can actually see what parts go where on that. I think thats my problem :)
Will such a stand be stable enough to loosen or tighten the gear on the crankshaft. Have to apply a lot of force to it to tighten it to spec (150Nm), and untill now I left the engine it in the frame far that.
What’s the best way to remove that smaller bearing above the crank on the right side casing. I bought the tusk blind bearing remover kit and the smallest puller is still too large
With everything else out, you'll have to heat the case evenly (oven if you can) then slam the case on a wooden block and it should come out. We show it in a different video, check this one out th-cam.com/video/_Jl94Dh99hk/w-d-xo.html -Charles
i need help i m gonna rebuild the motor of a ktm i bought for very cheap but i m not sure if it s a 300 or a 250 cause the boy told me was a 300 but 300 sx in those yrs wasn t a thing so i m thinking is a 250 with 300 kit but how do i ensure this
Yes, the backside will have the cut-out that lines up with the shift drum. It should only go on one way, did you make sure it dropped all the way down in place? There's a lot of variables there, did you shift through the gears at the bench, or is it already in the bike? Can you find neutral without the bike running? -Charles
What type of grease have you been using in these 3 videos. Just seen that it was dark green like industrial tractor grease. Anything specific or just what is preferred?
good job guys!!! i don't even have a 2 stroke dirtbike..... but watched all 3 videos :) very clear directions - Just a pleasure to watch.
So for anyone watching this video as a reference: The dot on the Kickstarter ratchet gear is supposed to be offset with the marking on the shaft by one spline. They are not supposed to be lined up.
Truth
Great video, I've rebuilt 2 motors using this series. Couple torque corrections: Locking lever at 1:03 should be torqued to 4.4 lb-ft and the clutch hub torque at 8:45 should be 75 lb-ft. (2009 and earlier 300s)
Also, put the locking lever washer the right way around, the bevelled edge MUST be facing the locking lever, if not, the lever can bind against the flat side of the washer and the lever cant put enough pressure on the shift drum locator unit - your bike will jump out of gear and this wrecks the dogs on the gears.
I sure wish I read the comments beforehand. I stripped the threads out
The older KTM\Husky OEM repair manuals incorrectly call out locking lever screw as a M6 (torque: 10 Nm, 7.3 ft-lb, 88 in-lb) but it is a M5 screw (torque: 6 Nm, 4.4 ft-lb, 53 in-lb). The newer 250/300 OEM manuals corrected this mistake. Because of the OEM manual mistake, I also stripped the locking lever case threads and used a M5 Time-Sert to repair the case threads.
One tip on gaskets is to lube them instead of both mating surfaces, that way you wont miss a spot and in general its easier
Nice tip thanks for adding that!
Great series of vids, would be nice to include the fitment of seals for the countershaft, sprocket end. Now, Please do the same set of vids for my Beta 300 2017 Xtrainer.. I cant find any vids for that!
Nice video and thanks for your help !
At time 9:57 you can see he did not bend the locking tab over the nut.
Awesome quality!!
Idea: next video, how to remove and put the bearing in the case.
Well ahead of ya, here is a link to that video. th-cam.com/video/70utI4m7a_g/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching! - Chance
The older KTM\Husky OEM repair manuals incorrectly call out locking lever screw as a M6 (torque: 10 Nm, 7.3 ft-lb, 88 in-lb) but it is a M5 screw (torque: 6 Nm, 4.4 ft-lb, 53 in-lb). The newer 250/300 OEM manuals corrected this mistake. Because of the OEM manual mistake, I also stripped the locking lever case threads and used a M5 Time-Sert to repair the case threads.
According to the 2014 Husky repair manual (page 155) the kick starter needs to installed with a one tooth offset. The kick starter on my TE300 would not work correctly when the timing marks were lined up as shown in this video. Talked to another KTM/Husky engine builder and he confirmed that the manual is correct about the kick starter alignment offset for the 2004 - 2016 250/300 models.
My 2016 ktm 300 xcw had them signed when I pulled it out
Had the same issue on my 2012 300 EXC. if i installed it with the timing marks lined up, when the kick starter was operated the extra tension in the spring caused it to deform and catch on the clutch basket making a horrible noise as I started it and the drag made it harder to start on the kick starter.
I think you have just solved all of my issues haha
Which direction should the offset be???
@@owensimpson324did you found out?
Just would like to add that you didn’t specify that there’s a “spacer” with an o ring that deals the oil seal behind the front sprocket. Don’t forget to put that in before the sprocket (from the outside)
Very helpful series. Cheers rocky mountian atv mc
Fantastic job!
Awesome video, can't thank you enough!
I appreciate the video. However in regards to the shift drum locking lever you stated 7.4 LBFT= 10.03 NM. It’s actually 6NM which is 4.4 LBFT. My bad, I should have verified because it seemed like alot, but I ended up stripping out the threads. Now I need to heli coil it. Hope this saves someone else some work
yep it got me as well, wish I'd read the comments.
I stripped my threads too. I tapped the hole out to m6 and drilled the locking lever spacer sleeve out to 6mm and installed it all. I torqued it to 10nm and later on discovered that because it is now thinner the drilled out spacer sleeve deformed slightly where the locking lever sits, this caused it to bind on the locking lever so the spring did not hold the locking lever against the shift star with enough pressure and it would jump out of gear, in doing so it damaged the dogs on several gears in the gearbox. I had to rebuild the gearbox AGAIN. Next time around I made an M6/M5 stud for the locking lever from an old M6 engine bolt, 20mm of m6 thread then I turned down a section of it and put an M5 thread on it 11mm long so I could use the original size locking lever spacer sleeve and avoid the deformation and binding I experienced before.
Now I just need to sort out the badly machined primary and secondary shafts that caused the original gearbox issue!!!!
Man, I hate my KTM
@@Subjectno23 So...manual shows the locking lever at 10 nm....yep, mine stripped at 10 nm, got a helicoil, tried the fishing line trick to bust off the tab,...didn't quite work but the helicoil seems to be holding. This part sucks! That spring has so much tension, yet a 5mm bolt to hold it and the manual spec is wrong...ugh. 2014 KTM300 xC here
Great video well presented easy to understand 👍 thanks and wot years does that cover
good morning ! Great and meticulous work: what dynamometric do you use to torque to 7.4 foot pounds? greetings
How long do you think it would take me to rebuild the bottom end of my KTM 250sx
I have a random question about an older ktm rfs motor it’s an 08 450 and I’m having some up shifting issues about 3-5 shift is hard even with boots any insight on where to start looking?
Haloo
Congratulations on your work!
When I force the first cube it jumps and enters continuously! What do you think could be to blame? Ktm exc 300 2012. Tanks
Any advice on what happens if I get far enough along I put the shifting mechanism back in and I can't run through the gears? That would be great if you guys could go into more detail on re-assembling the transmission shafts and do it slowly so we can actually see what parts go where on that. I think thats my problem :)
Brilliant... thank you.
Will such a stand be stable enough to loosen or tighten the gear on the crankshaft. Have to apply a lot of force to it to tighten it to spec (150Nm), and untill now I left the engine it in the frame far that.
Hello. Why is my 2009 250exc having only 3 springs for the fork rods? I looks exact the same...
What’s the best way to remove that smaller bearing above the crank on the right side casing. I bought the tusk blind bearing remover kit and the smallest puller is still too large
With everything else out, you'll have to heat the case evenly (oven if you can) then slam the case on a wooden block and it should come out. We show it in a different video, check this one out th-cam.com/video/_Jl94Dh99hk/w-d-xo.html -Charles
i need help i m gonna rebuild the motor of a ktm i bought for very cheap but i m not sure if it s a 300 or a 250 cause the boy told me was a 300 but 300 sx in those yrs wasn t a thing so i m thinking is a 250 with 300 kit but how do i ensure this
Is this process similar on an 07 300?
Hey. Does the shift drum locating unit have to go a certain way? I rebuilt my ktm 300xc and I can find evry gear except neutral
Yes, the backside will have the cut-out that lines up with the shift drum. It should only go on one way, did you make sure it dropped all the way down in place? There's a lot of variables there, did you shift through the gears at the bench, or is it already in the bike? Can you find neutral without the bike running? -Charles
well done
What type of grease have you been using in these 3 videos. Just seen that it was dark green like industrial tractor grease. Anything specific or just what is preferred?
It's the Bel-Ray Water Proof Grease: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/bel-ray-water-proof-grease-p
You timed that kickstart gear wrong. The dot goes one tooth to the left of the line tooth.
Is there no gasket on on the outer clutch cover?
I believe it has a rubber o-ring type gasket, so no need to replace unless its worn or broken
It had a rubber o ring
India❤❤❤
Ok, so now that we have...
Hhh. Bbzzghja I just