@@rmatvmc hey mate good videos i got a ktm 125 05 model off a friend not for nothing dknt worry aperentley they had to rebuild the bottom end due to water got inside tgen theg put head and so on bak on dont no how long they rode the bike for but they are saying the piston grabbed the power valve i showed another bloke the bareell and piston he showed me the score marks from the piston and said the piston didnt hit thd power vavle who ever rebuilt the moter put the piston in bakwards could that be the cause any advice would be apreciated thankyou mick
Great video. Helped me do this for the first time. ALERT: the torque for the engine brace bolts (on the bracket above the cylinder head) was incorrect. Video at 9:10 said to torque to 44.3 ft lbs. This broke mine. Bolts are only M8. Manual specifies 24.3 ft lbs.
Thanks for the vids, I like how every video ever skips the actual wrist pin clip install. "be sure not to scratch your piston" lol. The Slavens EZ clips make this process a lot easier...
Myself and a buddy used this video to rebuild the top-end on a '16 250xcw using the nihilo concepts deck tool and this video is misleading. The 300 piston must be flat because on a domed 250 piston you can't check the X dimension as shown here. You have place the tool across the top of the cylinder and use feeler gauges IN THE MIDDLE of the tool to check the height NOT the corners. On a 250 the piston hits the tool if you try to adjust the way they show here. Just a heads up to 250 guys, they should have mentioned that here that this video ONLY applies to a 300.
hmm, maybe theres a reason this video is titled "KTM 300 XC-W Top End Rebuild ". how is this video misleading when it gives the directions for the bike mentioned in the TITTLE? I think they did a very good job of mentioning that the video only applies to 300s, ya just gotta read the tittle, it aint that hard.
Great question Jack Bauer! Here is a link to a video that we have that explains the measurements. th-cam.com/video/60-WtFZj8AQ/w-d-xo.html Let me know if this helps. - Chance
I've got a question I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere. I had to change the power valve linkage arm you can see at 8:42 that connects the power valve to the bottom end. Somehow the old one was bent slightly from the nut. You can adjust the length of the arm with the thread and nut. How long am I meant to set the new one? Any ideas what may have caused the last one to bend? Hope somebody can help!! TIA
Motion Pro makes a torque wrench adapter tool that can be used to get the proper torque on a captive bolt - my son and I just used this tool that we purchased from RMATV to do the top end on his RM125. Worked perfectly.
@@shogun678 very true, I'm pretty much there. Doing a top end which is why I watched this video and need a caliper to measure the gaskets and a feeler gauge to check ring gap!!!
Similar yes. Should be slightly easier since you don't have a starter. Download the service manual for your bike and read it though. It'll give you exact measurements for your bike. The money you save doing it yourself will easily pay for the service manual so don't be cheap, buy it (if you can't find a free download). Makes sure it's the service manual and NOT the owner's manual.
had a question and would really appreciate a reply if you can, basically i have just rebuilt the top end on my 2017 300 exc (xcw) and I noticed after my first ride out after checking over the engine with a torch that the front half of my base gasket(only genuine parts used) both sides including under the exhaust port is slightly wet in colour and if you look very close you can almost see coolent (pink in colour) a very very small amount in the groove , you can run your finger nail down the groove and you can make out a slight bit on your nail, so stripped and checked the cylinder bolts and still at the correct torque( i always do these in a x pattern) i then reassembled the bike cleaned the area with contact cleaner leaving the area completely dry and took the bike out for a hour ride, on return still the same and now i feel like ordering new head gasket orings and head bolt crush washers and replacing the base gasket, i am over the top with my bikes and the amount of coolant in very small, it would never be enough to say drip or cause a puddle and doesn’t seem to get any worse after 10 minutes or a hour,but never noticed this on previous bikes and im a bit stumped 🤔, thanks for reading all this if you have and i look forward to your reply. Daniel
I often don't get a perfect seal unless I smear the new paper gasket with gasket maker silicone. The right powervalve cover will probably never seal all the way without silicone all around the perimeter.
It's definitely a good idea to check it if you're already in that deep. We have a video on it if you're unsure how. th-cam.com/video/eeliqbj5DgQ/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
These are great videos, but please tell me that there was a joke amongst the crew as to how many times he could say "go ahead". Thanks for the good content.
I noticed when you installed the radiator hoses, it looks like you have deleted the thermostat. I have a 2010 300 XCW and I see different opinions on running the thermostat versus deleting it. What is your opinion on deleting it and are there certain scenarios when you'd want to keep the thermostat in place? Thanks and great videos
On an auto deleting the thermostat isn't a good cause the engine needs to reach operating temperature ( warm up) but you may not recognize any difference.
That is a deck/timing tool. You can check it out here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-deck-and-timing-tool-p You can also click the first link in the description to see all the parts and tools we used for this rebuild.
RMATVMC makes some of the best rebuild and maintenance videos on TH-cam
Thanks Chance, Steve and RM ATV/MC Crew! Very helpful video series.
well explained and edited. Great job guys
Thanks! - Chance
@@rmatvmc hey mate good videos i got a ktm 125 05 model off a friend not for nothing dknt worry aperentley they had to rebuild the bottom end due to water got inside tgen theg put head and so on bak on dont no how long they rode the bike for but they are saying the piston grabbed the power valve i showed another bloke the bareell and piston he showed me the score marks from the piston and said the piston didnt hit thd power vavle who ever rebuilt the moter put the piston in bakwards could that be the cause any advice would be apreciated thankyou mick
Great video. Helped me do this for the first time. ALERT: the torque for the engine brace bolts (on the bracket above the cylinder head) was incorrect. Video at 9:10 said to torque to 44.3 ft lbs. This broke mine. Bolts are only M8. Manual specifies 24.3 ft lbs.
woah!
This is why I go by feel...I also don't trust my torque wrench lol
I stopped before I got there... I knew it was way too much.
I want to do this to my 2021 te300i. This video series has encouraged me to go for it. Ty
Thanks for the vids, I like how every video ever skips the actual wrist pin clip install. "be sure not to scratch your piston" lol. The Slavens EZ clips make this process a lot easier...
Thanks so much! Awesome video!
Such a great series
Thanks for the vid! Very good advice that helped me with a top end rebuild. And it inspired me to buy everything at rmatv!
Nice, that's what we like to hear! Glad the video helped out!
thanks man great bit of info. ive just bought a new 2023 ktm300exctpi 6days. im yet to pick it up another week and half. Loved the video.
Great video series, thanks!!
Great job!!! Keep 'em coming
Wow!!! Incredible videos!!! Congratulations... RM
The break in period is almost as long as the maintenance interval :D :D
Artist!
Can I just use a straight edge to check the deck height? They don't make a tool for my 01 ktm 300 EXC or 06 KTM 250 XC
Great video
Good job my friend!!👊✊💨
Ottimo video, molto preparato il meccanico 👍👍
Just spotted the rod is from royal rods, whats your opinion about this brand? Ived just installed one complete bottom end from them.
Nice video!!
Thanks for watching! - Chance
Mine came with 2 gaskets. A black one and the green on you installed. I went with the green which is what came out. What's the other black one for?
Myself and a buddy used this video to rebuild the top-end on a '16 250xcw using the nihilo concepts deck tool and this video is misleading. The 300 piston must be flat because on a domed 250 piston you can't check the X dimension as shown here. You have place the tool across the top of the cylinder and use feeler gauges IN THE MIDDLE of the tool to check the height NOT the corners. On a 250 the piston hits the tool if you try to adjust the way they show here. Just a heads up to 250 guys, they should have mentioned that here that this video ONLY applies to a 300.
hmm, maybe theres a reason this video is titled "KTM 300 XC-W Top End Rebuild ". how is this video misleading when it gives the directions for the bike mentioned in the TITTLE? I think they did a very good job of mentioning that the video only applies to 300s, ya just gotta read the tittle, it aint that hard.
Thanks for the tip, I was curious about the same. Still so much easier than using the solder-crush method. It's worth the 15 bucks :)
How do you go about measuring to ensure you have the correct piston replacement size? Aren't there a couple different sizes?
Great question Jack Bauer! Here is a link to a video that we have that explains the measurements. th-cam.com/video/60-WtFZj8AQ/w-d-xo.html Let me know if this helps. - Chance
@@rmatvmc
Thanks brother!
I've got a question I can't seem to find the answer to anywhere. I had to change the power valve linkage arm you can see at 8:42 that connects the power valve to the bottom end. Somehow the old one was bent slightly from the nut. You can adjust the length of the arm with the thread and nut. How long am I meant to set the new one? Any ideas what may have caused the last one to bend? Hope somebody can help!! TIA
you guys don't hone the cylinder on a rebuild?
They didn't check the ring end gap either.
How did you torque the cylinder bolt by the power valve?
Motion Pro makes a torque wrench adapter tool that can be used to get the proper torque on a captive bolt - my son and I just used this tool that we purchased from RMATV to do the top end on his RM125. Worked perfectly.
@@jp2246 oh right on. Might have to pick one up.
if you watch Slavens' video on doing a KTM top end, he doesn't torque those bolts, just snugs them up with a box end wrench. Go figure!
@@mschumaker1 every time you work on a ktm you need a new tool lol
@@shogun678 very true, I'm pretty much there. Doing a top end which is why I watched this video and need a caliper to measure the gaskets and a feeler gauge to check ring gap!!!
I have only one ring marked with a,, N". The second one doesnt have any symbol.
Will that moto go in the frame with the cyclinder head on it?
The chamber in my cylinder Head is spinning when inserting the spark plug, can anyone help me please?
What do you think of those easy clips the circlips ? Those look tough to put on them regular ones
Easy clips are the shiz.
I have an yz 125cc from 2001, I guess it is kinda the same? I don't know so much, I mostly ride.. :/
Similar yes. Should be slightly easier since you don't have a starter. Download the service manual for your bike and read it though. It'll give you exact measurements for your bike. The money you save doing it yourself will easily pay for the service manual so don't be cheap, buy it (if you can't find a free download). Makes sure it's the service manual and NOT the owner's manual.
@@jarrydvanhoy thanks for the answer! :)
I found "owner's service manual", is that the wrong one then?
@@Roosterboysgirl lol i'm unsure, i think i've come across that for past bikes too. I don't remember :/
You are correct, the owners service manual is the correct one and should have everything you need in there!
Good luck!
@@rmatvmc thank you for the answer! :)
had a question and would really appreciate a reply if you can, basically i have just rebuilt the top end on my 2017 300 exc (xcw) and I noticed after my first ride out after checking over the engine with a torch that the front half of my base gasket(only genuine parts used) both sides including under the exhaust port is slightly wet in colour and if you look very close you can almost see coolent (pink in colour) a very very small amount in the groove , you can run your finger nail down the groove and you can make out a slight bit on your nail, so stripped and checked the cylinder bolts and still at the correct torque( i always do these in a x pattern) i then reassembled the bike cleaned the area with contact cleaner leaving the area completely dry and took the bike out for a hour ride, on return still the same and now i feel like ordering new head gasket orings and head bolt crush washers and replacing the base gasket, i am over the top with my bikes and the amount of coolant in very small, it would never be enough to say drip or cause a puddle and doesn’t seem to get any worse after 10 minutes or a hour,but never noticed this on previous bikes and im a bit stumped 🤔, thanks for reading all this if you have and i look forward to your reply.
Daniel
I often don't get a perfect seal unless I smear the new paper gasket with gasket maker silicone.
The right powervalve cover will probably never seal all the way without silicone all around the perimeter.
where did you get the low ft/lbs 1/4" torque wrench?
I got mine at harbor freight 😂
Pro bike tools is a nice one to use.
maximum brand
What do you use to clean off the parts in this video?
don't u have to check ring end gap ?
It's definitely a good idea to check it if you're already in that deep. We have a video on it if you're unsure how.
th-cam.com/video/eeliqbj5DgQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
These are great videos, but please tell me that there was a joke amongst the crew as to how many times he could say "go ahead". Thanks for the good content.
Moto related drinking game potential right there - LMAO
I noticed when you installed the radiator hoses, it looks like you have deleted the thermostat. I have a 2010 300 XCW and I see different opinions on running the thermostat versus deleting it. What is your opinion on deleting it and are there certain scenarios when you'd want to keep the thermostat in place? Thanks and great videos
On an auto deleting the thermostat isn't a good cause the engine needs to reach operating temperature ( warm up) but you may not recognize any difference.
what is the code of the tool to set the valve?
That is a deck/timing tool. You can check it out here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-deck-and-timing-tool-p
You can also click the first link in the description to see all the parts and tools we used for this rebuild.
What assembly lube do you use in this video?
Premix oil for the internals, waterproof grease for power valve
Haha dude you need circlip pliers!
Guys you pass the step of the circlips so fast.. its the hardest thing of the process why you dont show us à tricks...
Thanks so much! Awesome video!