Love these detailed builds. please do more...The detail of every stage is what makes them so good. Thanks for producing them as I'm sure it takes ages to film and edit but that's why they are the best build videos.
Note Regarding Assembly Lube- Only use a small amount and wipe off excess. Assembly lube may contain friction modifiers which could affect clutch performance. If concerned use transmission oil instead.
So nice to see! I just sold my 250 17 with 430hrs and bought a fairly new 2017 300 with 1hrs ;-))). (was in the garage for about 3years) I made a decicion and throw a smartcarb inside. I was pretty happy with the mikuni after put some work into jetting and modifying. But the SC2 is just more awesome! My opinion the 17 is one of the best bikes to work and ride on! I wanna keep it as long its possible! And this video will help me! I got now 60hrs ... so i am still relaxed for bottom end overhaul yet :-)
Wow, nice find! I was pleased to find the 40H 2017 250 EXC I'm currently riding. Once the carb is sorted and suspension dialed in, these are great bikes... :-)
Excellent work all the way through the entire process. Can't imagine anyone giving a thumbs down, unless it's a buddy ribbing you, haha. Thank you for the amazing videos and information. These videos will serve thousands of KTM enthusiast for many many years! Great show.
For me I wanted to rebuild the crankshaft myself, so that's what I did. If you don't have the necessary tools probably the most cost effective option is to have someone else rebuild it for you. But yeah, price out the different options before deciding...
Did you complete a check to see if the crank assembly is sitting center in the cases? I used feeler gauge when pulling the cases together. I’ve seen people say it doesn’t need to be perfectly center but close enough. Anyways, great work as always!
Yes, the crank is pretty well centered in the cases. There is an approximate gap between the right case and right crank web of 1.25mm and on the left side the gap is approximately 1.15mm
Awesome video as usual. Wish I trusted my local KTM dealer to be a good a mechanic as you. I think I’d rather pay to ship my bike to Japan and pay you the $100 per hour to fix it 😂
Pleased to hear that you like the videos. Yes, it takes quite a bit of extra time to make the videos, but it makes me happy when some people find them useful and interesting.
Use bread to remove that blind bearing next time, it’s easier and faster than the welding. You just keep packing it with a punch and the bearing will ease out.
Great series of videos, having a lot of help on my rebuild. I need to replace the bearing controller of the shift drum, how should I install it? Thanks
36:15 I believe there is a typo in some years of repair manual that was only recently corrected. My belief is the repair manual ought to read “Degrease the cone” i.e. no grease. 2023 repair manual reads “Degrease the cone”
Interesting! I just checked a 2020 MY manual and it states "Degrease the cone". The 2017 MY manual states "Grease the cone". Greasing the cone does seem to be a common thing to do though for this type of install. Wonder why they changed to no grease on the cone now?
@@TokyoOffroad The other reason that supports my theory that there was a typo in MY17 Repair manual is that usually when KTM instructs the user to "grease" an item they will provide a cross reference to the type of lubricant specified (which was not the case in the "grease the cone" instruction). I believe the intention was to be written as later corrected "Degrease the cone".
Excellent series of videos, thank you! Having trouble sourcing the moly 60 paste you talk about, can you tell us what you’re using and maybe where you got it?
I’m using the original Honda Moly 60 paste which I purchased about 6 years ago. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s made anymore, but am sure something similar is available.
Hi Tokyo Offroad -where you get the BLUE set of driver installers do you got a part number or link - EXCELLENT video. KTM has such high quality of machine work and quality.
I purchased the set online from a tool shop in Japan. If you search for "bearing press 52 piece" on Amazon you can find the same, or similar. Price is pretty cheap and quality reasonable. Handy set to have for sure...
12:40 As you were fitting the case I noticed that the fork shafts don't have the springs sitting on top of them, the earlier engines have a spring, I guess the 2017 does not? LOL, there is no catching you out, just checked, your engine does not have the springs!
Got a question I just rebuilt a 250 sxf 2008 model and it feels like my neutral is between 2nd and 3rd but the neutral position on the shift star is In the same exact spot as the service manual
Yes, I didn't find any obviously bad bearings, but as it's quite a lot of work to split the cases I thought it would be a good idea to replace all of the bearings anyway.
Hi, i have a 125sx 07 and i just rebuilt my motor. I have problems with shifting. It takes a lot of force to shift, shifts into every gear tho. Do you know what is my issue?
Sorry I was unable to tell by the video but can you fit the bearings on both side's for the counter balance shaft externally without splitting the cases thanks wayne.
My friend have the same bike, but the engine do a lot of noise, and one day, i don't now how, the balancer gear break a half and dammage the primary gear and the valve gear, i check the ignition side and i saw the balancer hit the rotor at every roations, maybe that's the reason, have you heard something about this problem of "noise" or this issue ? Thanks for your videos !
My recommendation is to use KTM OEM bearings (typically SKF, or NTN, or other quality bearings used), or source them yourself from a bearing supply which sells name brand high quality bearings.
Dude I think the snap ring pkyers are pronounced (nip-X) not (kah-nype-ex)😂 Boy that KT n motorcycle, you're working on.Those sure are beautiful bikes.They're really aren't any made any better. So basically nice frigging bike man
Originally I pronounced it nipex . Then a German friend of mine told me it's pronounced k-nipex. But it appears that the pronunciation used by company employees in Germany is k-neepex: th-cam.com/video/0ElThr0GNd4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZojKd_k9YSOYWHsG Not very intuitive! LOL
Hey there, I find myself doing this exact job right now. Can you tell me what grease you used on the case halves before the gasket? I couldn't find it in the service manual.
I used Motorex 2000 grease as a general purpose grease and also used it for this job. Good luck with the overhaul! I find it a very satisfying job and always look forward to a bottom end overhaul
@@TokyoOffroad ok something went wrong with the reassembly 😢 nothing wrong with your instructions. Of course, when I put it back together, the countershaft is super tight, I can barely turn it. I’m thinking one of the bearings is off or something but I took it apart and tried to seat the bearings farther in. Not sure what it could be but something is wrong. Oh well, we’ll keep working on it. thanks again for these videos for sure. Would’ve been an utter disaster without them.
OK had a real mechanic (buddy of mine) fix it. We’re all good. I had improperly seated the right side countershaft bearing incorrectly. And some other stuff, Hehee. All good now, shout out to my buddy Eddie :)
Robert Smith - You could use an adjustable flywheel holder tool which fits around the outside of the rotor and has a handle. If using one of these it’s important that you carefully clean the rotor and tool before use, as any oil or grease will cause it to slip
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks! Just had a bottom end rebuild done on my 2017 300 XCW. The guy forgot to install the bearing race so the flywheel rotor spun wildly, destroying the stator and warping itself. Waiting on the new rotor to arrive. Your videos are superb. Had you made this one a month earlier, I have no doubt I could've done it myself, and probably saved some $$$ :/
@@robertsmith1581 - Sorry to hear about the problem and hope you can get it fixed quickly and go riding soon. Pleased to hear that you like the videos...
How many hours can you run with stock transmission bearings those that go around the transmission? Do they wearout so much like other bearings at bottom end?
If you change the transmission oil regularly then they should last a long time (500+ hours). When doing a bottom end overhaul I’d recommend replacing all of the bearings, even if they look fine as it’s quite a bit of work to split the cases...
On average probably between 500 to 750H would be a good bottom end overhaul period. I recommend doing some bottom end checks at every top end overhaul: th-cam.com/video/e8xg0KnMZ8g/w-d-xo.html
I actually only have a handful of KTM special tools. Most of them are good. But the crankshaft press jig was very disappointing (machined too small, crankshaft webs wouldn't fit in) as highlighted in Part 3
The video series was intended to help guide people who are doing this for the first time. As such I talk through critical assembly steps and point out things to be careful of. Sorry you didn't find the video useful.
Love these detailed builds. please do more...The detail of every stage is what makes them so good. Thanks for producing them as I'm sure it takes ages to film and edit but that's why they are the best build videos.
THANK YOU SO SO MUCH ON THE DETAIL ON HOW TO REINSTALL THE TRANSMISSION I COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING!!!!
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
Note Regarding Assembly Lube- Only use a small amount and wipe off excess. Assembly lube may contain friction modifiers which could affect clutch performance. If concerned use transmission oil instead.
Hello!
I'm having problems finding the race bearing from 8:33
Can you help me with a part number?
Thanks a lot from Romania!
So nice to see! I just sold my 250 17 with 430hrs and bought a fairly new 2017 300 with 1hrs ;-))). (was in the garage for about 3years) I made a decicion and throw a smartcarb inside. I was pretty happy with the mikuni after put some work into jetting and modifying. But the SC2 is just more awesome! My opinion the 17 is one of the best bikes to work and ride on! I wanna keep it as long its possible! And this video will help me! I got now 60hrs ... so i am still relaxed for bottom end overhaul yet :-)
Wow, nice find! I was pleased to find the 40H 2017 250 EXC I'm currently riding. Once the carb is sorted and suspension dialed in, these are great bikes... :-)
Lovely rebuild look forward to the end 😎👍🇬🇧
This guy really knows his stuff!
You’re an absolute legend for providing these videos mate
Nice series, thanks for all the hard work. I hope there will be a part 6.
Thanks for the video man. Love seeing people pass knowledge to others.
Cant wait to see that 2017 run once more.
Outstanding video. Well done!
Excellent work all the way through the entire process. Can't imagine anyone giving a thumbs down, unless it's a buddy ribbing you, haha. Thank you for the amazing videos and information. These videos will serve thousands of KTM enthusiast for many many years! Great show.
Thanks for this great detailed video and for sharing your knowledge with us, looking forward for the next part 👍
Great, now it's a brand new motor again. 👍
Thank you for this fantastic video. I wish I could rebuild my engine the way you show it. Please continue the great work!
Great video Tokyo Offroad! Very impressed by the quality of your work.
Amazing video
I like the Maxima assembly lubricate it smells like cinnamon like having a air freshener in the engine. 😃
Excellent work as always 👍
Bread works great for removing those blind bearings. Or torillas.
Thanks for the tip. I've also heard that from others and will try it some time...
Fantastic video as usual. One of the most thorough rebuild videos! Was it worth rebuilding the crankshaft or is it better to buy a new one?
For me I wanted to rebuild the crankshaft myself, so that's what I did. If you don't have the necessary tools probably the most cost effective option is to have someone else rebuild it for you. But yeah, price out the different options before deciding...
I’ve been following along for my rebuild, this is great! Is there a part 6?
Great explanations thanks very much 👍
Holy smokes... new bearings at less than 500 hours. I've got a 96 KTM 250sx and i don't think bearings have been changed.
Did you complete a check to see if the crank assembly is sitting center in the cases? I used feeler gauge when pulling the cases together. I’ve seen people say it doesn’t need to be perfectly center but close enough. Anyways, great work as always!
Yes, the crank is pretty well centered in the cases. There is an approximate gap between the right case and right crank web of 1.25mm and on the left side the gap is approximately 1.15mm
Awesome video as usual. Wish I trusted my local KTM dealer to be a good a mechanic as you. I think I’d rather pay to ship my bike to Japan and pay you the $100 per hour to fix it 😂
Good video thanks
great !!! time to rebuild my ktm now :D
Pleased to hear that you like the videos. Yes, it takes quite a bit of extra time to make the videos, but it makes me happy when some people find them useful and interesting.
Use bread to remove that blind bearing next time, it’s easier and faster than the welding. You just keep packing it with a punch and the bearing will ease out.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll have a go next time. Keen to try it!
Note: do not eat that bread out of joy when the bearing is out.
@@paiankur LOL
It looks like a massive lego build
Very good !
We need part 6 :D
Great series of videos, having a lot of help on my rebuild. I need to replace the bearing controller of the shift drum, how should I install it?
Thanks
Great series - can't seem to find part 6 though! Is it titled differently than the first 5 parts?
36:15 I believe there is a typo in some years of repair manual that was only recently corrected. My belief is the repair manual ought to read “Degrease the cone” i.e. no grease.
2023 repair manual reads “Degrease the cone”
Interesting! I just checked a 2020 MY manual and it states "Degrease the cone". The 2017 MY manual states "Grease the cone". Greasing the cone does seem to be a common thing to do though for this type of install. Wonder why they changed to no grease on the cone now?
@@TokyoOffroad The other reason that supports my theory that there was a typo in MY17 Repair manual is that usually when KTM instructs the user to "grease" an item they will provide a cross reference to the type of lubricant specified (which was not the case in the "grease the cone" instruction). I believe the intention was to be written as later corrected "Degrease the cone".
Excellent series of videos, thank you! Having trouble sourcing the moly 60 paste you talk about, can you tell us what you’re using and maybe where you got it?
I’m using the original Honda Moly 60 paste which I purchased about 6 years ago. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s made anymore, but am sure something similar is available.
We need Part 6 vid.
Around 24 minutes you install the fork shafts but I don’t see any springs. My bike has springs not sure of yours does.
Good video!!! Did you make part 6?
Thanks! No, sorry I didn't. This was the last part.
Ok. Do you know any good video for rest. Clutch and so on. Your video was very good. I did same engine with your instruction 👍
@@hilti503 I made a clutch rebuild video which may be of interest: th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=JyU6rrFGBGz6a1NE
Hi Tokyo Offroad -where you get the BLUE set of driver installers do you got a part number or link - EXCELLENT video. KTM has such high quality of machine work and quality.
I purchased the set online from a tool shop in Japan. If you search for "bearing press 52 piece" on Amazon you can find the same, or similar. Price is pretty cheap and quality reasonable. Handy set to have for sure...
12:40 As you were fitting the case I noticed that the fork shafts don't have the springs sitting on top of them, the earlier engines have a spring, I guess the 2017 does not? LOL, there is no catching you out, just checked, your engine does not have the springs!
No, no springs on 2017...
where's the next video please?
Did you use new lock rings or reuse the old ones?.... I was told never to reuse lock rings because they stretch
Where is the final video?
those freezing bearings not going get rusty after being contact with hot case ? anyway great job sir!
No, the condensation is gone in a couple of minutes. Also the bearings are lubed, so no chance of getting rusty.
What you think of wrench rabbit rebuild kits? I’m rebuilding my sons rm125 seems to be bad reviews on every brand
Got a question I just rebuilt a 250 sxf 2008 model and it feels like my neutral is between 2nd and 3rd but the neutral position on the shift star is In the same exact spot as the service manual
Would you mind sharing the sizes of the bearings you sourced from the local bearing shop?
Any reason why you replaced all the case bearings or was it just peace of mind?
Yes, I didn't find any obviously bad bearings, but as it's quite a lot of work to split the cases I thought it would be a good idea to replace all of the bearings anyway.
Hi, i have a 125sx 07 and i just rebuilt my motor. I have problems with shifting. It takes a lot of force to shift, shifts into every gear tho. Do you know what is my issue?
Sorry I was unable to tell by the video but can you fit the bearings on both side's for the counter balance shaft externally without splitting the cases thanks wayne.
The balancer shaft bearings are pressed in from the outside of the cases.
My friend have the same bike, but the engine do a lot of noise, and one day, i don't now how, the balancer gear break a half and dammage the primary gear and the valve gear, i check the ignition side and i saw the balancer hit the rotor at every roations, maybe that's the reason, have you heard something about this problem of "noise" or this issue ? Thanks for your videos !
Wow! I've never heard of this failure before. I think it's very rare...
Hi, would you mind telling the refs for the bearings and seals if possible?
What happened to the last part (Part 6)? Can't seem to find it?
@TokyoOffroad which bearing is that small one that you had to weld the rod to remove? Is that the ball bearing from the “Water Pump” parts diagram?
Great video(s) by the way. Unbelievably helpful
Answered my own question, it’s actually in the “Exhaust Control” parts diagram
One stupid question. Are hot rods bearings good for transmition and prox for cranckshaft. And can i maybe use all skf bearings
My recommendation is to use KTM OEM bearings (typically SKF, or NTN, or other quality bearings used), or source them yourself from a bearing supply which sells name brand high quality bearings.
Dude I think the snap ring pkyers are pronounced (nip-X) not (kah-nype-ex)😂 Boy that KT n motorcycle, you're working on.Those sure are beautiful bikes.They're really aren't any made any better. So basically nice frigging bike man
Originally I pronounced it nipex . Then a German friend of mine told me it's pronounced k-nipex. But it appears that the pronunciation used by company employees in Germany is k-neepex: th-cam.com/video/0ElThr0GNd4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZojKd_k9YSOYWHsG
Not very intuitive! LOL
Did you say 450 hours!?
Hey there, I find myself doing this exact job right now. Can you tell me what grease you used on the case halves before the gasket? I couldn't find it in the service manual.
I used Motorex 2000 grease as a general purpose grease and also used it for this job. Good luck with the overhaul! I find it a very satisfying job and always look forward to a bottom end overhaul
@@TokyoOffroad ok something went wrong with the reassembly 😢 nothing wrong with your instructions. Of course, when I put it back together, the countershaft is super tight, I can barely turn it. I’m thinking one of the bearings is off or something but I took it apart and tried to seat the bearings farther in. Not sure what it could be but something is wrong. Oh well, we’ll keep working on it. thanks again for these videos for sure. Would’ve been an utter disaster without them.
@@roccit Sorry to hear about the problem. Hope you can figure out the cause quickly. Pleased to hear that you find the videos useful...
OK had a real mechanic (buddy of mine) fix it. We’re all good. I had improperly seated the right side countershaft bearing incorrectly. And some other stuff, Hehee. All good now, shout out to my buddy Eddie :)
@@roccit That's good news! Pleased to hear it's sorted now.
@tokyo offroad, any tricks on holding the flywheel in place without that special tool. I need to torque mine down properly. Thanks!
Robert Smith - You could use an adjustable flywheel holder tool which fits around the outside of the rotor and has a handle. If using one of these it’s important that you carefully clean the rotor and tool before use, as any oil or grease will cause it to slip
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks! Just had a bottom end rebuild done on my 2017 300 XCW. The guy forgot to install the bearing race so the flywheel rotor spun wildly, destroying the stator and warping itself. Waiting on the new rotor to arrive.
Your videos are superb. Had you made this one a month earlier, I have no doubt I could've done it myself, and probably saved some $$$ :/
@@robertsmith1581 - Sorry to hear about the problem and hope you can get it fixed quickly and go riding soon. Pleased to hear that you like the videos...
How many hours can you run with stock transmission bearings those that go around the transmission? Do they wearout so much like other bearings at bottom end?
If you change the transmission oil regularly then they should last a long time (500+ hours). When doing a bottom end overhaul I’d recommend replacing all of the bearings, even if they look fine as it’s quite a bit of work to split the cases...
@@TokyoOffroad thanks for answering this helps for coming bottom end rebuild.
My balancer shaft bolt snapped before 30nm torq🤣🤣
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. The specified torque is definitely 30Nm though. Were you able to extract the broken bolt OK and redo it?
@@TokyoOffroad it kinda twisted and i just spinned it off with my hand, i think there was old loctite left on thread
Love the videos thank you for all the help ! What brand silicone grease are you using ?
I use Threebond 1855 Silicone Grease
where is part 6??
Sorry, I didn't make part 6.
what hour on your bike do you recomend doing it? mine has now 50 hours on it
On average probably between 500 to 750H would be a good bottom end overhaul period. I recommend doing some bottom end checks at every top end overhaul: th-cam.com/video/e8xg0KnMZ8g/w-d-xo.html
👍👍👍
Why are you calling a flywheel a rotor?
Believe it or not, rotor is another name for flywheel. KTM call it the "rotor" in the repair manual and parts list.
Здраствуйте уменя на husqvarna 250ti 2018 из каробки передач пропадает масло што может причина.
Possible causes include a leak (check the oil drain, clutch cover etc for oil), or the right side crankshaft seal is damaged (exhaust will be smokey).
@@TokyoOffroad ok.
правий салник каленвала размер 38.52.7. Да ?
Is there any special tool from ktm that you don't have? lol
I actually only have a handful of KTM special tools. Most of them are good. But the crankshaft press jig was very disappointing (machined too small, crankshaft webs wouldn't fit in) as highlighted in Part 3
Why use special assembly lube and not just the normal gearbox oil?
Dude just put the damn gear shafts in already!!!Jesus man
The video series was intended to help guide people who are doing this for the first time. As such I talk through critical assembly steps and point out things to be careful of. Sorry you didn't find the video useful.
Kakehan alat
You can never have too many tools, or too many motorcycles ;-)
@@TokyoOffroad 😅😅