What a GREAT video!!!! Thank you for the very helpful ideas. I will admit I am now a subscriber because this was one of the best videos on this subject that I found. Thanks again and happy grilling!
I used 18g steel on my island, you'll definitely use a lot less support pieced because it's a lot stronger. It holds my granite counter top no problem!! Nice build
I'm really glad you made this video Martha. My Wife and I are moving to PHX next month and we want to tackle an outdoor kitchen project before the summer. You may have just given us enough confidence to actually do it!
Welcome to you and your wife! This really is the best climate for outdoor cooking and -- at least most of the year. We were pretty intimidated by the whole thing, but after all the research and planning, and finally going for it, I'm so glad we did. Also, shoutout for the Chairman Kaga representation :D
Great video! Have you heard of ConnecTubes? You can build a real steel frame without welding. The system is super cheap and uses steel couplers and 1.5 x 1.5" square galvanized steel tubing. Highly recommend you learn about this building product to use for bbq frames etc... The price is comparable to track and studs. They even have telescoping cutout kits for less cutting. Reply
Are you not going to mention that you sell that product? Because of your videos & Black Friday sale I was considering ordering some. I have a project of over 50 linear ft of outdoor counter space before cut outs. Between the potential shipping cost to Colorado & this not very up front post I will most likely purchase the tubing from a local supplier & weld it. I would have to buy a welder... but with the size of my projects (I have a second home with a similar size forecast that I will be doing summer of 2024). I will be very far ahead in savings & have a welder to call my own. Welding for things like this is not hard & for a project like this a class at a maker space would be enough for most people.
VERY helpful Video. Many thanks for putting it together. I do have one question, though. Can you tell me why you chose to use metal channel for MOST of your vertical supports rather than using full studs for all of them? Thanks!
Thank you! We only used channel for framing out the openings, as the are not for structural support, they're easier to snip and bend the corners, and they don't have the holes in them, like the studs do.
Amazing work on the video details everything … I plan on starting mine soon!! I keep hearing use 16 gauge, but 20 seems workable based on what you have shown… any idea on what limitations restrictions or why you went woth 20 not 16 or 18 gauge?
No idea how much it will bear. Hopefully at least a 2.5" slab of concrete. 😂 We just tried to use a lot of extra supports to distribute the load better. We wanted to use 18 gauge, but it was only available at a truss supply shop, only one of which is open to the public, and had limited hours that didn't fit our schedule. Whereas the 20 gauge were available at Home Depot -- though only at specific locations.
Thanks for the video. Were the studs you used anything special. The 20G Home depot ones day drywall framing non load bearing. Was it strong enough to hold up the concrete counter top?
Two years later, and still going strong! We weren't too sure, and (clearly) we didn't know what we were doing, so we definitely over-framed, just in case. 18ga would be better, but it was too difficult to source. Definitely would not risk it with the 25ga, that HD also sells, however.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Wow that is a lot of framing. Wasted a bit of money there. Looks good. 👍 I wouldn't worry so much about termites and fire. You can spray for termites and unless you've ever burned down your house the fire concern shouldn't be there... but... your stuff will last a long time even if it sits in water and that is a great thing. I built mine onto wheeled platforms, no water issues. Spray with bug spray as normally you would once a year.
We did not secure it to the concrete, theorizing that the sheer heft of the concrete countertop would prevent any movement. If lighter materials are to be used for the rest of the build, I would imagine anchoring it down would probably be a good idea.
How are the stainless steel doors and drawers holding up? I have seen some negative reviews with this brand saying they r cheap. Thanks for ur thoughts!
With the disclaimer that we live in a dry climate - they’re still looking good! The wide door one tends to open on its own when it’s windy. So the magnet isn’t great. I’d say the problems were upfront, during installation. Once in, they’re good.
We used wood, but it’s pretty dry here. Also, I *think* we sandwiched the shims between the Trex and the framing, so they’re not in contact with the ground. If not, we should have 😄
Thank you. I see that there are composite shims out there that I’ll try. It’s very humid here so rot is an issue for sure. Thank you for the great video. I’ve watched it many times and used it as a blueprint for my project.
Self drilling is not a lie, its technique. Or else they wouldn't make them or people wouldnt buy them lol. Just takes a little practice and a nice grip on your drill.
Is that kamado a big joe or a classic size? Looking to do something similar for a big joe and curious on because of the weight. Great video and thanks for the info!!
We have one, but I'm not sure it would have fit over the lath head screws. I'll try it out next time though. We're also getting an impact driver before our next metal project, which another view suggested.
Thanks! If we can do it, anyone can 😂 I used Sketch, which is for designing interfaces, not outdoor kitchens, but it's what I had and was familiar with.
@Shoestring Martha thanks! I wanted to put wheels under ours. However, I don't believe I would be able to move it after stone on the side and a concrete countertop.
We have one now, and used it on our steel fence build. Game changer. What's wild is in alllllll the videos we watched on steel framing before we started, no one mentioned it. They just assumed people knew. 😔
We used a Diablo 10" metal cut-off disc. For the record, they are for metal saws, not for wood chop saws, like the one we used. It's my understanding that the wood saw spins too fast for them, and it is possible that the cut-off disc will shatter. That didn't happen to us, I think because we were using pretty light metal, and going slow. Probably a fair share of dumb luck helped too.
@@ShoestringMartha Thank you! What tool you used to cut the metal gauge. Sorry I am bit naïve in this area. If you could tell me exact model , I can purchase/rent it from home depot
We put a metal cut off wheel on our chops saw. Technically not the ideal way to do it, but it was the least expensive option for us. A metal cutting saw is what you’re supposed to use. I don’t know if HD rents those out. Not as accurate, but you could probably get away with an angle grinder. Maybe one of the steel framing experts will chime in.
@@ShoestringMartha Thank You I'm starting my project in the next week or 2. I'm sure I will have more questions. Thank You for answering me. BTW I keep watching your videos you guys did an awesome job BTW love the dog
@@ShoestringMartha You did great for your first time. The reason for your screw wobble was because of the 1 inch screws. Shorter screws and investing a little in an impact gun will be a life/time saver. Question: did you attach the frame to the concrete?
That makes sense! When we switched to the 1/2" ones, they seemed a lot more stable, and I'm always looking for an excuse to buy another tool 😆 We did not attach it to the concrete. Figured with the weight of a 2.5" slab on top, it wasn't going anywhere.
Those tiny drills can't sink the screws. Not enough speed or torque. You need a Makita or Milwaukee 18volt, like this which is 1,500lbs of torque: www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Kit-with-1-Battery-3-0Ah-XDT131/301444914#overlay Best $119 you will ever spend. You won't believe how much more productive you will be.. Don't forget the magnetic bit holder. When the bit breaks pull it out, insert another..all magnetic. They have a sleeve to cover the screw to prevent it from from slipping out, even the 1" ones. www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Shockwave-3-in-Magnetic-Bit-Holder-48-32-4503/203114937?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-203114937-_-N&
Do you have any issues with the studs rusting? I was advised not to use it as condensation inside, due to temperature differences, would could a lot of rusting of the studs.
I was pretty sure not, but just in case, I just went out and looked around inside with a flashlight. After a year, no sign of rust. There is a vent, and the whole thing is off the ground, just a fraction. Our climate is also very dry, so your YMMV.
@@mroozendaal The zinc coating of hot-dipped galvanized steel will last in the harshest soil is 35 to 50 years and in less corrosive soil 75 years or more. Although humidity affects corrosion, temperature itself has less of an impact. Galvanized zinc coatings respond well in extreme cold and hot temperatures.
At the time, there were peak lumber prices. Steel was about the same, and then you get the durability (no rot, no termites) too. It was definitely a learning curve, but went faster, as we started to get the hang of it.
how thick is your patio slab below? any concerns with the weight of the island? i am considering doing something similar and i only have a 3.5 inch patio slab
It’s pretty beefy. Probably 6”? You can see for yourself in the video below. I don’t think the kitchen is all that heavy - except for the concrete countertop. We poured it pretty thick. DIY Repair of our WRECKED Concrete - Outdoor Kitchen, Patio Gym, and Master Bath - all got trenched. th-cam.com/video/P4yMZ6XESf8/w-d-xo.html
@@ajlombardi2 Personally, I would probably go for it, but that is a completely un-professional, non-expert opinion. 😬 I would consult a concrete professional, to be safe.
I am a UX Designer, so I used Sketch (different from SketchApp), which I use for work. It's not really meant for drawing plans or rendering 3 dimensional objects. But it works well enough for me visualize the build and estimate the materials.
@@ShoestringMartha That’s the stage that I’m at right now. I’m trying to put together the drawings to know how much material I need. Thank you for the information, and congratulations it looks beautiful.
Edited. 1. The self-tapping screws... you have to press in hard so they make a dimple, then they go in. It takes a while to get used to doing it. 2. Never mind my question about studs and channels.
Oh no we used channel for connecting the walls horizontally, at the top and bottom, and around the accessories. I did use some pieces of stud for internal support, like under the grill.
you bought the wrong screws! self drilling screws have a drill bit tip on them, not a threaded point! just pointing that out as i have way too much experience as a DIYer!
They were self-tappers, and did work, if we were very slow and careful, but were just too squirrelly for my comfort. For us, it was easier just to pre-drill.
@@jameschristopher3405 25 ga can be used . I’d go 12 “ on center though. I’m in the process of framing mine using two and half inch studs. The support framing for the grill the studs will be joined back to back like an I beam.
I used Sketch (different from SketchApp). It's not really meant for this, but it's what I have and what I'm familiar with. Plans are definitely not accurate or to scale. They were just to help me estimate materials.
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What a GREAT video!!!! Thank you for the very helpful ideas. I will admit I am now a subscriber because this was one of the best videos on this subject that I found. Thanks again and happy grilling!
Thank you so much and welcome!! 🔥🥩
I do frame steel sthds for a living and I approve this structure 👍👍
I used 18g steel on my island, you'll definitely use a lot less support pieced because it's a lot stronger. It holds my granite counter top no problem!! Nice build
will the steel not rust?
You can you a metal tap instead of pre drilling the holes for self drilling screws.
👍
Great Job!
Very nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
I'm really glad you made this video Martha. My Wife and I are moving to PHX next month and we want to tackle an outdoor kitchen project before the summer. You may have just given us enough confidence to actually do it!
Welcome to you and your wife! This really is the best climate for outdoor cooking and -- at least most of the year. We were pretty intimidated by the whole thing, but after all the research and planning, and finally going for it, I'm so glad we did. Also, shoutout for the Chairman Kaga representation :D
Great job. Chuckled a little at the overkill on metal studs but then you caught that. Backerboard firms things up
great video, gonna attempt this real soon. 👌🏽👌🏽👌🏽
Good luck!!
1/2" lath screw is all you need, and a ton easier to screw in with an impact drill (no pre-drill needed)
👍
Great job
So those screws were for decking material you needed self tapping metal screws specifically designed for the steel framing material you were using
The box said "metal to lath or metal to metal" so you would think... 🤷 I do know they definitely sucked for this application. 😂
The self tapping screws are not a lie! You just don't know how to use them properly. It requires a certain technique.
Thank you , I’m wondering the fuck fuck nobody is using them. Just making it hard on themselves
Also should have used an impact driver for the self tapping screws…much easier without having to drill pilot holes
I literally laughed out loud when they predrilled that shit 🤣
The screws are self tapping if you use the right tool for the job lol you need a impact
100% truth! Of course we got one AFTER this project. 🙄 At least it made attaching the steel panels of our fence with self-tappers a breeze 😊👍🏼
Read my mind, Jaime. Great job, Martha!
many studs are upside down so the holes are all over the place 😂 but hey, if you don’t know, now you know. Nice vid
Thanks! 🌠 The more you know...
LOVED IT!!!
That thing is built stronger than woodpecker lips🦅😎
Bahahaha!! 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks!!
Great video! Have you heard of ConnecTubes? You can build a real steel frame without welding. The system is super cheap and uses steel couplers and 1.5 x 1.5" square galvanized steel tubing. Highly recommend you learn about this building product to use for bbq frames etc... The price is comparable to track and studs. They even have telescoping cutout kits for less cutting.
Reply
Hmm, no I have not. I'll look into them, next time a metal framing project comes up!
Are you not going to mention that you sell that product?
Because of your videos & Black Friday sale I was considering ordering some. I have a project of over 50 linear ft of outdoor counter space before cut outs. Between the potential shipping cost to Colorado & this not very up front post I will most likely purchase the tubing from a local supplier & weld it. I would have to buy a welder... but with the size of my projects (I have a second home with a similar size forecast that I will be doing summer of 2024). I will be very far ahead in savings & have a welder to call my own.
Welding for things like this is not hard & for a project like this a class at a maker space would be enough for most people.
VERY helpful Video. Many thanks for putting it together. I do have one question, though. Can you tell me why you chose to use metal channel for MOST of your vertical supports rather than using full studs for all of them? Thanks!
Thank you! We only used channel for framing out the openings, as the are not for structural support, they're easier to snip and bend the corners, and they don't have the holes in them, like the studs do.
Amazing work on the video details everything … I plan on starting mine soon!!
I keep hearing use 16 gauge, but 20 seems workable based on what you have shown… any idea on what limitations restrictions or why you went woth 20 not 16 or 18 gauge?
No idea how much it will bear. Hopefully at least a 2.5" slab of concrete. 😂 We just tried to use a lot of extra supports to distribute the load better. We wanted to use 18 gauge, but it was only available at a truss supply shop, only one of which is open to the public, and had limited hours that didn't fit our schedule. Whereas the 20 gauge were available at Home Depot -- though only at specific locations.
Thanks for the video. Were the studs you used anything special. The 20G Home depot ones day drywall framing non load bearing. Was it strong enough to hold up the concrete counter top?
Two years later, and still going strong! We weren't too sure, and (clearly) we didn't know what we were doing, so we definitely over-framed, just in case. 18ga would be better, but it was too difficult to source. Definitely would not risk it with the 25ga, that HD also sells, however.
Wow that is a lot of framing. Wasted a bit of money there. Looks good. 👍
I wouldn't worry so much about termites and fire. You can spray for termites and unless you've ever burned down your house the fire concern shouldn't be there... but... your stuff will last a long time even if it sits in water and that is a great thing.
I built mine onto wheeled platforms, no water issues. Spray with bug spray as normally you would once a year.
Super helpful video thank you for sharing! Just wondering how/if you secured to the concrete pad?
We did not secure it to the concrete, theorizing that the sheer heft of the concrete countertop would prevent any movement. If lighter materials are to be used for the rest of the build, I would imagine anchoring it down would probably be a good idea.
@@ShoestringMartha Thank you so much! I really appreciate that you took the time to respond :)
Great vidéo thanks for sharing.
Did you fix your kitchen to the floor?
We did! It wasn't a top priority, but a major plumbing disaster kind of forced up to go ahead and do it. th-cam.com/video/P4yMZ6XESf8/w-d-xo.html
IMPRESSIVE!
How are the stainless steel doors and drawers holding up? I have seen some negative reviews with this brand saying they r cheap. Thanks for ur thoughts!
With the disclaimer that we live in a dry climate - they’re still looking good! The wide door one tends to open on its own when it’s windy. So the magnet isn’t great. I’d say the problems were upfront, during installation. Once in, they’re good.
What did you use for shim material? I’m afraid to use wood for rot. The plastic sons may be too thick.
We used wood, but it’s pretty dry here. Also, I *think* we sandwiched the shims between the Trex and the framing, so they’re not in contact with the ground. If not, we should have 😄
Thank you. I see that there are composite shims out there that I’ll try. It’s very humid here so rot is an issue for sure. Thank you for the great video. I’ve watched it many times and used it as a blueprint for my project.
Best of luck with your build!
Some say your partner is still waiting for the cut studs to this day.
Self drilling is not a lie, its technique. Or else they wouldn't make them or people wouldnt buy them lol. Just takes a little practice and a nice grip on your drill.
LOL.. Im glad someone said it.
Is that kamado a big joe or a classic size? Looking to do something similar for a big joe and curious on because of the weight. Great video and thanks for the info!!
Thanks a bunch! It’s a Classic and weighs a ton, so I did my best to overengineer that platform.
I have never once had any issue with self tapping metal screws. Just use a screw guide.
We have one, but I'm not sure it would have fit over the lath head screws. I'll try it out next time though. We're also getting an impact driver before our next metal project, which another view suggested.
Great video and this definitely gives me the confidence to build my own bbq island. What software did you use to put your dimensions on paper?
Thanks! If we can do it, anyone can 😂 I used Sketch, which is for designing interfaces, not outdoor kitchens, but it's what I had and was familiar with.
Hi! What did you use for the backing on the inside? I know you use pine cedar for the inside floor
Hello! It is unfinished on the inside, other than the planks to keep everything off the ground and safe from moisture - more interior space that way 😀
Are those 2.5" studs ? Wanting to build one at our place.
3 5/8" 😊
@Shoestring Martha thanks! I wanted to put wheels under ours. However, I don't believe I would be able to move it after stone on the side and a concrete countertop.
@@fronabargerconveyingpumping Maybe the tile wouldn’t be too bad, but definitely not with the concrete top 😅
Thx 4 sharing
You should buy an impact driver drill. U don’t need to pre drill self drilling screws. Just the correct drill.
We have one now, and used it on our steel fence build. Game changer. What's wild is in alllllll the videos we watched on steel framing before we started, no one mentioned it. They just assumed people knew. 😔
What type of blade did you put on your chop saw to cut thru the metal studs?
We used a Diablo 10" metal cut-off disc. For the record, they are for metal saws, not for wood chop saws, like the one we used. It's my understanding that the wood saw spins too fast for them, and it is possible that the cut-off disc will shatter. That didn't happen to us, I think because we were using pretty light metal, and going slow. Probably a fair share of dumb luck helped too.
Can you tellme where you got the counter top drink trough? Really like that one.
Overstock -- there should be a link up top for an undermount bar sink. Hopefully they still have it!
You put the studs incorrect, besides that great job and thanks for sharing
🤷
Great video Martha..Where did you order steel gauge for frames? I am planning to start this project. Thank you for this informative video.
We got it from Home Depot! Only some of their locations carry the heavier gauge steel though. We had to shop around. 😣
@@ShoestringMartha Thank you! What tool you used to cut the metal gauge. Sorry I am bit naïve in this area. If you could tell me exact model , I can purchase/rent it from home depot
We put a metal cut off wheel on our chops saw. Technically not the ideal way to do it, but it was the least expensive option for us. A metal cutting saw is what you’re supposed to use. I don’t know if HD rents those out. Not as accurate, but you could probably get away with an angle grinder.
Maybe one of the steel framing experts will chime in.
Approximately how much did you spend on the steel framing ?
About $260 I believe, just for the track and studs.
Did you secure the base to the floor after leveling the base plate so the structure doesn't move? What did you use and how long were the screws?
We did not. With a 2 1/2 concrete slab on top, it’s not going anywhere. For any other type of countertop, it might be a good idea to lag it down.
@@ShoestringMartha Thank You I'm starting my project in the next week or 2. I'm sure I will have more questions. Thank You for answering me. BTW I keep watching your videos you guys did an awesome job BTW love the dog
Good luck with your project and Hogan says, "WOOF!"
Did you screw the island to your slab?
Nope! The weight of the concrete should keep anything from shifting.
You could have been helped greatly with an impact gun and 5/8' self tapping screws.
We did use self-tappers, but if an impact gun would mitigate their crazy swivel action -- I'm on board!
@@ShoestringMartha You did great for your first time. The reason for your screw wobble was because of the 1 inch screws. Shorter screws and investing a little in an impact gun will be a life/time saver. Question: did you attach the frame to the concrete?
That makes sense! When we switched to the 1/2" ones, they seemed a lot more stable, and I'm always looking for an excuse to buy another tool 😆 We did not attach it to the concrete. Figured with the weight of a 2.5" slab on top, it wasn't going anywhere.
DIY/ FIRST TIME LEARNERS!!!!
Those tiny drills can't sink the screws. Not enough speed or torque. You need a Makita or Milwaukee 18volt, like this which is 1,500lbs of torque: www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18-Volt-LXT-Lithium-Ion-Brushless-Cordless-Impact-Driver-Kit-with-1-Battery-3-0Ah-XDT131/301444914#overlay
Best $119 you will ever spend. You won't believe how much more productive you will be.. Don't forget the magnetic bit holder. When the bit breaks pull it out, insert another..all magnetic. They have a sleeve to cover the screw to prevent it from from slipping out, even the 1" ones. www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Shockwave-3-in-Magnetic-Bit-Holder-48-32-4503/203114937?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-203114937-_-N&
Do you have any issues with the studs rusting? I was advised not to use it as condensation inside, due to temperature differences, would could a lot of rusting of the studs.
I was pretty sure not, but just in case, I just went out and looked around inside with a flashlight. After a year, no sign of rust. There is a vent, and the whole thing is off the ground, just a fraction. Our climate is also very dry, so your YMMV.
@@ShoestringMartha thank you. Our climate is probably much wetter, so probably not taking the risk. Perhaps a hard wooden frame is better.
@@mroozendaal The zinc coating of hot-dipped galvanized steel will last in the harshest soil is 35 to 50 years and in less corrosive soil 75 years or more. Although humidity affects corrosion, temperature itself has less of an impact. Galvanized zinc coatings respond well in extreme cold and hot temperatures.
Question
Where did you get the framing material?
Home Depot -- but a particular Home Depot. We live between two, and one carried 20 gauge steel framing, and the other only had the flimsy stuff.
Curious why metal instead of much easier and faster wood Studs?
At the time, there were peak lumber prices. Steel was about the same, and then you get the durability (no rot, no termites) too. It was definitely a learning curve, but went faster, as we started to get the hang of it.
Wood will catch on fire and attracts bugs
I would go with cinder block.
how thick is your patio slab below? any concerns with the weight of the island? i am considering doing something similar and i only have a 3.5 inch patio slab
It’s pretty beefy. Probably 6”? You can see for yourself in the video below. I don’t think the kitchen is all that heavy - except for the concrete countertop. We poured it pretty thick.
DIY Repair of our WRECKED Concrete - Outdoor Kitchen, Patio Gym, and Master Bath - all got trenched.
th-cam.com/video/P4yMZ6XESf8/w-d-xo.html
@@ShoestringMartha right on. you think a 3.5 inch slab would be ok to support something similar ?
@@ajlombardi2 Personally, I would probably go for it, but that is a completely un-professional, non-expert opinion. 😬 I would consult a concrete professional, to be safe.
What software or app did you use to do the renderings?
I am a UX Designer, so I used Sketch (different from SketchApp), which I use for work. It's not really meant for drawing plans or rendering 3 dimensional objects. But it works well enough for me visualize the build and estimate the materials.
@@ShoestringMartha That’s the stage that I’m at right now. I’m trying to put together the drawings to know how much material I need. Thank you for the information, and congratulations it looks beautiful.
Edited.
1. The self-tapping screws... you have to press in hard so they make a dimple, then they go in. It takes a while to get used to doing it.
2. Never mind my question about studs and channels.
Oh no we used channel for connecting the walls horizontally, at the top and bottom, and around the accessories. I did use some pieces of stud for internal support, like under the grill.
@@ShoestringMartha Thanks... Nice job on the kitchen and the video.
you bought the wrong screws! self drilling screws have a drill bit tip on them, not a threaded point! just pointing that out as i have way too much experience as a DIYer!
They were self-tappers, and did work, if we were very slow and careful, but were just too squirrelly for my comfort. For us, it was easier just to pre-drill.
The box even said self-drillers.
What gauge studs did you use?
20 🙂
Im starting mine, go with at least the 20g… the 25g is to flimsy imo.
@@jameschristopher3405 25 ga can be used . I’d go 12 “ on center though. I’m in the process of framing mine using two and half inch studs. The support framing for the grill the studs will be joined back to back like an I beam.
@@tbone2451 gotcha, I just finished mine, 8 x 10’ l shaped :-) I used 20g, but did do the 12” on center as you did.
@@jameschristopher3405 Fantastic, hope you enjoy.
You apply pressure and it sucks right in. Self tapping saves time
Preplanning; nah hahaha honestly rotfl watching this
Wear gloves all the time when working with metal…
6in drill extension
👍
What spacing between studs did you end up using?
On the bar side, I believe they were 9"-11" depending on where they were.
what did you use for the plans design
I used Sketch (different from SketchApp). It's not really meant for this, but it's what I have and what I'm familiar with. Plans are definitely not accurate or to scale. They were just to help me estimate materials.