Larry... do you still surf? Have you ever tried quads and thrusters, twins.. probably yes, Ive been searching footage or interviews about it but never found. I wonder what you have to say about it.. I mean, for me surf scene is boring nowadays, but I do appreciate a good thruster, knifey not too short, old boards, single fin, twins, I like the akila aipa approach to new twins... but I feel like the old boards had more function and freedom, plus they would ride any surf and required more connection to the ocean and waves, flow. I feel like today is too much sticker, posing, the boards also look and feel dead... nothing how used to be, feels like the boards are no longer made for a reason or purpose, they made for make you rip or something despite the wave, maybe just maneuvers. Like the shapers are not longer visionaries. People, specially the groms not even get regulated, it is important to be regulated haha we see kids surfing like adults... acting like adults... is like when u mention drawing your own circle on a paper, not copying. One thing I appreciated was you adjusting your single fin the way you wanted on that movie. Im not complaining...but feels like you guys back then were way ahead of us. Is almost like i wish we could go back to that and change surf again. Few people really appretiate those boards and can use them today, most is just for looks amd styling... well.. hope to hear from you, I like your perspective.. I wonder because maybe you dont surf anymore, or still rides single fins..or maybe just plays music. Bro I used my wife's uncle old ben aipa stinger at diamond head and big pupukea... ho that thing is something, gnarly... solid also, hard to ride. Feela like to find the right tuning too, gotta tune the fine positioning and all that. Very humbling.
AMEN!
You da best Larry. Tanks 4 a lifetime of inspiration.
Aloha!
Larry... do you still surf? Have you ever tried quads and thrusters, twins.. probably yes, Ive been searching footage or interviews about it but never found. I wonder what you have to say about it..
I mean, for me surf scene is boring nowadays, but I do appreciate a good thruster, knifey not too short, old boards, single fin, twins, I like the akila aipa approach to new twins... but I feel like the old boards had more function and freedom, plus they would ride any surf and required more connection to the ocean and waves, flow.
I feel like today is too much sticker, posing, the boards also look and feel dead... nothing how used to be, feels like the boards are no longer made for a reason or purpose, they made for make you rip or something despite the wave, maybe just maneuvers. Like the shapers are not longer visionaries. People, specially the groms not even get regulated, it is important to be regulated haha we see kids surfing like adults... acting like adults... is like when u mention drawing your own circle on a paper, not copying. One thing I appreciated was you adjusting your single fin the way you wanted on that movie.
Im not complaining...but feels like you guys back then were way ahead of us. Is almost like i wish we could go back to that and change surf again. Few people really appretiate those boards and can use them today, most is just for looks amd styling... well.. hope to hear from you, I like your perspective..
I wonder because maybe you dont surf anymore, or still rides single fins..or maybe just plays music.
Bro I used my wife's uncle old ben aipa stinger at diamond head and big pupukea... ho that thing is something, gnarly... solid also, hard to ride. Feela like to find the right tuning too, gotta tune the fine positioning and all that. Very humbling.