I've got no idea why I'm watching it. I don't intend to make it anytime with my NC but.... it's a real pleasure to watch it. No music is a good thing for instruction videos. Greetings from Poland 8))
I added Race Tech Emulators to my SV650. I started off with only one hole in the pop off valve but found the forks were not reacting at all to minor bumps. After much experimentation I now have 4 holes opened and a very nice compliant fork that moves to absorb street bumps but also absorbs nicely big sharp bumps taken at speed. Preload on the little spring I have at 1 1/2 turns and 12wt oil.
I have installed the same kit front and rear on my US model NC750x and I found the forks just a bit too firm on the big hits so I reduced the oil height about 2 millimeters (I decided to reduce the oil level after I found a YSS PD valve installation instruction sheet that indicated the vale be installed prior to setting the oil level). My kit's PD valve adapter fit the top of the damper rod perfectly so I utilized that part so that is a bit different from your excellent video. Last but not least I installed a Lust Racing Raising Link in the rear which lifts the bike's rear end 80 mm (+3/4") and the bike now has sportbike levels of ground clearance even with 1/2" lower SW Motech pegs. The flickability, comfort and stability of the NC provides a riding experience that is off the charts fun.
Great video, thank you. Just fitted Racetech goldvalves to my NC700X, now it rides like a proper motorcycle should, no more jerky harshness. As always, suspension is the best mod you can/should do.
You are far more knowledgeable then half the mechanics in Florida the work I seen and the work you do is amazing you are spot on everything is done correctly and smooth I watch all mechanics before I started doing my own they are rough and do not care about your ride at all thank you for all these videos I have a ctx and it’s pretty much sale exact set up as the nc so it helps me big time
Excellent technical walkthrough this modification, really good to see you drilling compression damping bleed holes out. In the uk the there appears to have been a lot of debate about the drilling opperation wrt the Royal Enfield 650 kits and lots havent done it..... a few were saying it wasn't necessary and scared a lot of others not to drill also, apparently the uk YSS kits at one point did not include the drilling operation (sadly people were going with the consensus ralther than thinking through the theory of operation). Good work and great video, now need to find the review video.
Excellent presentation, however, you mention that the valves are only adjustable for compression damping , but what you didnt mention was the rebound damping is altered/adjusted by different oil viscosity and/or changing the air gap measurement. Keep up the good work!
So my front and rear YSS suspension came today and to make sure I phoned Firefox suspension to ask again do I drill out the damper holes and he said no leave them, there 4mm standard , also said I use 15w fork oil and don’t do the standard 101mm oil level it’s to much start at 150mm and see if they bottom out and measure oil with the PD valve in, my bike is the 750s
Gday mate hope it works for you i suppose nothing ventured nothing gained ,took one of your ideas the other day and used a galv bolt for a on the road front axil remover works well bit of filing but well worth it .
If anyone wants to run the high beams at night. Try raising forks 8 mm in triple tree. Less offensive to motorists but much safer for you. Still not enough in sharp curves but good for straight.
Hi again I have just bought the YSS rear shock from Firefox racing here in the UK for my nc750s but not with the pre load adjuster, just sprung for me and the wife, we will only go touring once a year with the top box and panniers so he said not worth the extra cost just put about 5 to 10 mm pre load on when we do. I also bought the YSS front fork kit for the 750x which he tells me is the same as the S he also told me not to drill out the damper rod as there getting better results by not doing so I will let you know how it goes
I have no complaints about the suspension of my motorcycle, it must be because we always travel 2 people ????. If I notice a little hard when traveling alone. Very good video, I look forward to your conclusions. Greetings from Argentina.
this looks like major work.. drilling and cutting.. de swarfing.. its a friday night and im watching... if you say its just a neglible improvement minus the placebo effect.. im gonna be gutted.
My first post, thanks for the site. I’m always pleased to find a channel with an interesting subject run by person who seems to actually think rather than follow glandular instructions. I hate to say this after all your work and spiffy video but are you putting the stock springs back in? Honda/ Showa have a very well deserved reputation for springs that are A. much to soft and B. made of grade Z steel. Increasing preload will result in forks that are harsh over small bumps but the same too soft rate on big ones, not the best situation. To give you an idea of what I mean, I have pulled stock Showa springs rated at 0.6 KG/ MM and replaced them with springs (per recommendation from an expert) with a rating of 1.05 KG/ MM. The stiffer spring, along with much less preload, resulted in the correct ride height and improved comfort, much less dive under braking and general performance (with a damping fix similar to the one you installed) that is as close to the good stuff as is going to happen without spending half the cost of the bike. The NC750 is a tremendous value, spending Ohlins type money doesn’t fit the bike, IMHO. OTOH, $120 for a big improvement fits the “big bang for the buck” nature of the beast. Showa seems to use weak springs then add way too compression damping to “fix” the dive problems that causes. I’ve read Honda’s test facilities are about as bumpy as the average billiard table. Regarding the “Grade Z steel” comment, the same springs had lost 25-30 MM of ride height due to “sacking” of the spring in 30K miles (about 50K KM). Good damping is a fine thing but a quality spring with the right spring rate is step one to get the suspension to work well, damping is step 2. That advice came from somebody (the late Jim Lindemann) who had decades of experience building everything from touring to national level road racing bikes here in the US. I think his words were like “a bike with the rights springs just kinda floats on them” or something close to that. Finally, sorry this is so long, this is a favorite subject, I love a bike that rides well and keeps the tires on the ground and working when you feel a little frisky in the twisties.
Los cambios que hiciste fueron para darle mayor comodidad a la suspensión. Yo quisiera saber como puedo hacer para aumentar el recorrido de la suspensión delantera. Tengo una nc750x del 2023 qué tiene 120mm de recorrido adelante y es muy poco, creo que las versiones más antiguas de esa moto tenían 150mm de recorrido
Another fine vid my friend. Robert is your Mother's brother and i'll buy that for a dollar!! Too funny, i haven't heard that for many years. Cheers Mate! :{)
Thanks for a very didactical video. While not too difficult it takes some tools to do a good job - vice, bench drill, long grabber, etc. One part I feel uneasy about is the clamping back of the tubes without a torque wrench. They are pretty flimsy. Also, I assume the damping valves can be adjusted, however cumbersome the process is to do it. Look forward the road test with the new set up! One question: Have you considered fork gaiters for protection?
Fork Gaiters? I don’t like them. They trap water and dust. They are OK if you regularly pull them down and clean inside. Personally I’d rather just clean the in-gaitered forks.
unless you plan on doing some serious off road or street racing, you could just increase the weight of the oil. When I change the stock fork oil , i usually go up 2, 10wt to 15wt. ..works for me.
Thanks for this very detailed video. It's been 4+ years and I'm curious to know how the fork enhancement has functioned, and if it's still something you recommend. Reducing sharp bump response sounds appealing. :)
Sorry to hear your NC was sold, but your mate was surely happy. I just noticed you also added spring preload adjustors. Do you think that's an important component to match with the emulators? I've watched a lot of NC enhancement videos and yours is the first one I've seen with spring adjustors.
Hi there! I've just bought the very same YSS kit for my NC. In the install manual I can't seem to find I'm to drill any wholes at all in the rod like you have done. Is this a pro tip you and you alone have been blessed with or any idea why my manual has left that part out? Got to ask the pros! 💙😁
They changed their instructions from when I bought mine. I suspect it’s about making it easy to install rather than getting it right. I’m no expert either. But it seems to me that drilling the holes is required to allow the PD valves to work
Hi. Do you know how to remove the bagues located inside the tube fork please ? I didn't find any documentation that shown how to do. Im talking about the plastics bagues inside the fork tube
Love your humor. I’m saving money, I badly want my own nc750x. Thanks for all your videos. I have seen them all. Do you use rust fluid? Like wd40 ore ac50? I live in Norway, and there Are salt and ice on the road, some month of the year... Do you have. Wash and prep for winter video?
Nice video. Sir, what do you think about Andreani Misano fork cartridge (made in Italy)? It will cost approx 700$ with completely new internals. Cheers
Sorry mate. I’ve no experience with any other kit. I chose the YSS because I believed it good value for money ($450 au) and I’ve dealt with the local distributor for many years so trust their recommendations.
The bottom and top triple clamps are held in line with the head stock - unless you are very rough removing the forks. I’ve never had a problem with alignment.
Tighten Top triple clamp, screw in the rest in place loosely, sit on the bike and press down the fork (3.4 time) press the front brake and hold then you press the fork again (2, 3 times), then you can tighten the rest of the bolts harder then you have Alain the front fork right.
Hello from Portugal. First of all congratulations for the channel, and your super videos, which is very useful for the arrangements on the nc750x. I bought the front kit for my 2018 nc750x rc90. Now, according to what is written in the instructions, you don't need to drill holes. yss says to use 20w oil. I find it strange that they say to use 20w. I'm afraid they'll be too rigid. What is your opinion about the viscosity to use, since you have experience. Thanks in advance.
Great video, just what I was looking for as I have my Honda CB1100 Showa forks in pieces at the moment waiting for new seals to arrive and was looking at doing this upgrade. Your forks look identical internally, which gives me confidence. Just wondering what spring tension you put on the PD valve,did you do the 2 turns or more? Look forward to hearing on your impressions of the mod...cheers
Cheers..Just a quick question, as Im about to put my forks back together and trying to decide if this modification is worth it, I understand it might be awhile before you do your next video, can you say Yes or No if you think this was worth it? Thanks again
How do you know how far to slide them back into the bike steering head thing? How do you get the 2 sides to be exactly the same? Obviously I have no idea. And no idea of the correct terminology.
I mentioned I slide the tube up till the fork cap is just above the triple clamp. If the bike was lowered (like Wendy’s) then I use a small steel rule to measure each side.
Roger Perrett - well, it’s not hard to get them the same so no reason not to. But I guess in theory having one a few mm different to the other wouldn’t be a big problem.
Hi Adrian, great videos! Can you pls confirm the 2 suspension kits you installed from YSS are the “fork upgrade kit” and the “MZ456 with hydraulic preload”? Thx
These are the options for the NC that I chose from. You should choose based on your open needs. yssaustralia.com.au/filter?category_7=10&other_9=12&feature_11=101model-NC+750+X&feature_12=2016&type=top#
Hi Another great video , the PD valves.......are they adjustable ? if so did they have any instructions/guidance as to how you set them up ? there was no mention in the vid. Haven't seen any recent " tales " from you lately ! are you both well ? kind regards from the UK , Derek
Yes they are adjustable when on the bench. There are guidelines in the product instructions on the settings. We are in lockdown due to a Delta strain outbreak. And I haven’t posted for a while as I’ve got nothing useful or interesting to say 🤪
It’s a black art. Depends on your preference, weight, position of the moon … But try starting two turns in from a loose spring on the of valve. But before you do, count the turns out till the spring is loose as they are normally already set as a “standard” rate.
Question my YSS kit does not mention drilling any further holes. So why have you drilled out the hole to 8mm. Also if this is necessary how high is the second series of holes. Interestingly the kit came with 40w oil. I guess because Thailand ( home of manufacturing) is a lot hotter tan U.K. BTW hope you are keeping well and still enjoying the Africa Twin.
For reasons unknown YSS changed their instructions after I installed mine. The instructions used to include the drilling. Can’t remember the hole distances. Yes still enjoying the AT.
Glad you are enjoying the AT. After listening to your thoughts on the upgrade I think I will drill out the rod. Just confirming the hole is enlarged to 8 mm?
Hello. I have a Honda NC 750 Integra and i want to upgrade the front suspension. What do you think about the Adreani missano cartridge. It is a complete kit.
Personally I don’t like fork gaiters. Dust and moisture gets trapped inside. So unless I clean inside very often, it’s worse than no gaiters. But I can understand some like them.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff nobody likes them... they look 'retro'...... but they protect your fork legs from getting scratched and pitted and rusty if you grease them occaisionally under the covers. Just remember to clean underneath before a mot or the tester will accuse you of having a leaky fork seal.
Yes they work with progressive springs. Can’t comment on the need for springs. Too many variables and I’m no expert. Best solution is to take it to a suspension specialist who can tune the forks to your needs.
Hello there, is this why the 2019 models have the www.showa1.com/en/technology/motorcycle/img/h1_sdbv.jpg upgrade ? Thanks to your Nice video “20+” I ordered a 2020 nc750x !! Saying goodbye to KawaZX9R.. Enjoying you Chanel a lot cheers ! Herman from the Netherlands.
Please allow a question about your PD valves, since I cannot open the link from Germany: They look like the YSS valves (PD 335) - is my assumption correct?.In your vid, the adapters do not fit to the damping rod but the "naked" valves do. Is your NC a >=2016 or a till 2015 model? The part numbers of the rods differ after the fork modification of the 2016 model. Reason behind my question is that I own a 2018 model and can get the naked PD335 quite cheap - but want to avoid a surprise when everything is dismounted. So if your NC is a >=2016 model (I assume it is), the chance that the naked valves should fit is not so bad :)
Finally did the upgrade last Sunday, PD valves and rear shock. I'm more than happy with the improvement. Thanks again for your fantastic videos, it's a big, big help.
hey, I'm currently trying to change the fork oil seals, I already did it once but my friend and I couldn't get the bolt at the bottom of the fork ( 5:40 ) out, we were able to loosen it but now the insides are turning with the screw. We also put the spring back in and closed it, that should help but even that didn't work. How do I get this screw out? The problem is the same on both forks, the last time it was no problem.
Sorry. I don’t know. I haven’t had that problem on any of my bikes in the past either. You might try putting a long flat piece of steel down the tube to hold the damping rod from rotating. The screw attaches to the bottom of the damping rod.
Be careful using scotch brite. It is an abrasive and green is equivalent to around 600 grit sandpaper. Not really something you want to be using on your forks.
I have all of the bits for this and the rear suspension upgrade - but cannot get a topnut 38mm octagonal wrench anywhere - does anyone have any suggestions?? Many thanks.Ian
Yes. There are two measures - Static sag: Difference between full extension and when the weight of the bike sags the forks Active: difference between bike unladen and with the rider sitting on the bike. I measured both but didn’t go into detail in this one as I did that with the shock vid.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hi, thanks, I have noticed your 2016 forks are different to my 2016 European spec forks. Mine has the showa dual bend forks, I suspect is similar to what you have done.
Hello again, is there something weird about me for watching an old man like myself messing about with motorbikes?🧐 And enjoying them? However, have you changed your very attractive assistant, because there was no mention of a brain 🧠 in you last video? Also where did uncle Bob go? If you keep changing the cast is It any wonder I get confused 😐
I think you ended up with too much fork oil in your forks.. The measurement is based on the displacement of the spring not the spring plus pd valve.. So I'm guessing you put the pd valve in before final measurement? What do you think? Cheers
No. Definitely no spring. The PD valve instructions said oil before the valve. But I had the same question. The valve isn’t at all solid but it made a slight difference to the oil height. Oil height effects the damping as it increases or decreases the air gap. So oil height is often used for this purpose. The “recommended” height is just the standard not the “must only be” height.
Yes definatley no spring, but to get the same oil height the PD valve would need to go in before the oil. I rang YSS and the guy said PD valve before the oil so we got 2 diferent answers from the same company...lol..but as you said the oil height can be used as an adjustment as can the oil viscosity so whatever works best in the end for each case..cheers
Ozi Goo - thanks for your comment. I was definitely confused as like you, I expected the vale to be inserted before the oil bug the instructions said otherwise. But in the end all is OK with my forks so I just had a nice cup of tea and a lie down till the feeling passed.
Incredibly, the NC700X "instructions" don't state drilling a hole, the importer says follow the instructions, basic bloody logic says this is nonsense. I'll be drilling as it makes no sense to put a PD valve on top of an already crappily designed damping rod.
Yep. Agree. When I bought mine the instructions DID say to drill. Later, this was removed from instructions. I suspect it was a bid to make it look easier to install and therefore sell more product.
I've got no idea why I'm watching it. I don't intend to make it anytime with my NC but.... it's a real pleasure to watch it. No music is a good thing for instruction videos. Greetings from Poland 8))
I added Race Tech Emulators to my SV650. I started off with only one hole in the pop off valve but found the forks were not reacting at all to minor bumps. After much experimentation I now have 4 holes opened and a very nice compliant fork that moves to absorb street bumps but also absorbs nicely big sharp bumps taken at speed. Preload on the little spring I have at 1 1/2 turns and 12wt oil.
I have installed the same kit front and rear on my US model NC750x and I found the forks just a bit too firm on the big hits so I reduced the oil height about 2 millimeters (I decided to reduce the oil level after I found a YSS PD valve installation instruction sheet that indicated the vale be installed prior to setting the oil level). My kit's PD valve adapter fit the top of the damper rod perfectly so I utilized that part so that is a bit different from your excellent video. Last but not least I installed a Lust Racing Raising Link in the rear which lifts the bike's rear end 80 mm (+3/4") and the bike now has sportbike levels of ground clearance even with 1/2" lower SW Motech pegs. The flickability, comfort and stability of the NC provides a riding experience that is off the charts fun.
Thanks for your input.
Quite an impressive job, hope it will worth it, looking forward to part 4! Greetings!
Great video, thank you.
Just fitted Racetech goldvalves to my NC700X, now it rides like a proper motorcycle should, no more jerky harshness. As always, suspension is the best mod you can/should do.
good job again, looking forward to the road test!
Nice video. Now you only need a 19" front wheel and you have a Africa twin 750x. Cheers
"Robert's your mother's brother". Good one, had to think about that for a moment.
You are far more knowledgeable then half the mechanics in Florida the work I seen and the work you do is amazing you are spot on everything is done correctly and smooth I watch all mechanics before I started doing my own they are rough and do not care about your ride at all thank you for all these videos I have a ctx and it’s pretty much sale exact set up as the nc so it helps me big time
Excellent technical walkthrough this modification, really good to see you drilling compression damping bleed holes out. In the uk the there appears to have been a lot of debate about the drilling opperation wrt the Royal Enfield 650 kits and lots havent done it..... a few were saying it wasn't necessary and scared a lot of others not to drill also, apparently the uk YSS kits at one point did not include the drilling operation (sadly people were going with the consensus ralther than thinking through the theory of operation). Good work and great video, now need to find the review video.
Benny Hill music! I admire your restraint 😁
After putting in the fork and having the motorcycle stand on it you should loosen the downer clamp once to release any tension.
I was looking forward to this. Thanks for the free entertainment!
Ha! You’re welcome
great job you offered the community ... learn ... thanks
"...so between us we've got four arms and one brain" hahahaha. Good one, mate :)
Excellent presentation, however, you mention that the valves are only adjustable for compression damping , but what you didnt mention was the rebound damping is altered/adjusted by different oil viscosity and/or changing the air gap measurement. Keep up the good work!
Thanks from Slovakia. Your videos are very instuctive. 👍🏻
Another super video. You make it look easy. I’m sure you’re assistant and Management will be taking full credit though...😉
Absolutely. I’m just the “brawn” !
"Robert will very soon be my Mother's Brother" , and Bob's your uncle !
I've just fitted a YSS Kit to a friend's 2018 NC750X.
No mention of drilling out any holes in the Instruction Leaflet . . .
No mention on the kit I just bought either???? How did you find it afterwards?
So my front and rear YSS suspension came today and to make sure I phoned Firefox suspension to ask again do I drill out the damper holes and he said no leave them, there 4mm standard , also said I use 15w fork oil and don’t do the standard 101mm oil level it’s to much start at 150mm and see if they bottom out and measure oil with the PD valve in, my bike is the 750s
Gday mate hope it works for you i suppose nothing ventured nothing gained ,took one of your ideas the other day and used a galv bolt for a on the road front axil remover works well bit of filing but well worth it .
Nice one boyo... very informative. Properly enjoyed this.
Thank you
"Paraphernalia" What a beautiful word!
If anyone wants to run the high beams at night. Try raising forks 8 mm in triple tree. Less offensive to motorists but much safer for you. Still not enough in sharp curves but good for straight.
Nice job you two, and of course great management always helps!
Great, never seen that done before. 👍🏍
Yep. Me neither!
Excellent Video, many Thanks..
Hi again I have just bought the YSS rear shock from Firefox racing here in the UK for my nc750s but not with the pre load adjuster, just sprung for me and the wife, we will only go touring once a year with the top box and panniers so he said not worth the extra cost just put about 5 to 10 mm pre load on when we do. I also bought the YSS front fork kit for the 750x which he tells me is the same as the S he also told me not to drill out the damper rod as there getting better results by not doing so I will let you know how it goes
So, how did it go?
I have no complaints about the suspension of my motorcycle, it must be because we always travel 2 people ????. If I notice a little hard when traveling alone. Very good video, I look forward to your conclusions. Greetings from Argentina.
Maybe you got a newer model? The front fork was upgraded in 2016, I think.
Mine NC is from 2014, and the fork is very harsh on bad roads.
@@nrbrtbns Yes, mine is 2017. I didn't know there was an update for newer models. Regards
this looks like major work.. drilling and cutting.. de swarfing.. its a friday night and im watching... if you say its just a neglible improvement minus the placebo effect.. im gonna be gutted.
It was fun bonding time even if there is no improvements !
My first post, thanks for the site. I’m always pleased to find a channel with an interesting subject run by person who seems to actually think rather than follow glandular instructions.
I hate to say this after all your work and spiffy video but are you putting the stock springs back in? Honda/ Showa have a very well deserved reputation for springs that are A. much to soft and B. made of grade Z steel. Increasing preload will result in forks that are harsh over small bumps but the same too soft rate on big ones, not the best situation. To give you an idea of what I mean, I have pulled stock Showa springs rated at 0.6 KG/ MM and replaced them with springs (per recommendation from an expert) with a rating of 1.05 KG/ MM. The stiffer spring, along with much less preload, resulted in the correct ride height and improved comfort, much less dive under braking and general performance (with a damping fix similar to the one you installed) that is as close to the good stuff as is going to happen without spending half the cost of the bike. The NC750 is a tremendous value, spending Ohlins type money doesn’t fit the bike, IMHO. OTOH, $120 for a big improvement fits the “big bang for the buck” nature of the beast. Showa seems to use weak springs then add way too compression damping to “fix” the dive problems that causes. I’ve read Honda’s test facilities are about as bumpy as the average billiard table.
Regarding the “Grade Z steel” comment, the same springs had lost 25-30 MM of ride height due to “sacking” of the spring in 30K miles (about 50K KM). Good damping is a fine thing but a quality spring with the right spring rate is step one to get the suspension to work well, damping is step 2. That advice came from somebody (the late Jim Lindemann) who had decades of experience building everything from touring to national level road racing bikes here in the US. I think his words were like “a bike with the rights springs just kinda floats on them” or something close to that.
Finally, sorry this is so long, this is a favorite subject, I love a bike that rides well and keeps the tires on the ground and working when you feel a little frisky in the twisties.
Thanks for the post. I agree with everything you say.
Greetings from Brazil. Nice video
Los cambios que hiciste fueron para darle mayor comodidad a la suspensión.
Yo quisiera saber como puedo hacer para aumentar el recorrido de la suspensión delantera. Tengo una nc750x del 2023 qué tiene 120mm de recorrido adelante y es muy poco, creo que las versiones más antiguas de esa moto tenían 150mm de recorrido
Another fine vid my friend. Robert is your Mother's brother and i'll buy that for a dollar!! Too funny, i haven't heard that for many years. Cheers Mate! :{)
Thanks for a very didactical video. While not too difficult it takes some tools to do a good job - vice, bench drill, long grabber, etc. One part I feel uneasy about is the clamping back of the tubes without a torque wrench. They are pretty flimsy. Also, I assume the damping valves can be adjusted, however cumbersome the process is to do it.
Look forward the road test with the new set up!
One question: Have you considered fork gaiters for protection?
Fork Gaiters? I don’t like them. They trap water and dust. They are OK if you regularly pull them down and clean inside.
Personally I’d rather just clean the in-gaitered forks.
unless you plan on doing some serious off road or street racing, you could just increase the weight of the oil. When I change the stock fork oil , i usually go up 2, 10wt to 15wt. ..works for me.
Yes. I agree. This is the easiest and cheap eats first thing to do.
Thanks for this very detailed video. It's been 4+ years and I'm curious to know how the fork enhancement has functioned, and if it's still something you recommend. Reducing sharp bump response sounds appealing. :)
I’ve sold the NC to a mate. He loves the suspension still, so all is good. Well worth doing as the std suspension is very budget.
Sorry to hear your NC was sold, but your mate was surely happy. I just noticed you also added spring preload adjustors. Do you think that's an important component to match with the emulators? I've watched a lot of NC enhancement videos and yours is the first one I've seen with spring adjustors.
@Richard-dh8ny - because I’m a fat lump the preload helped the overall package.
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Hi there! I've just bought the very same YSS kit for my NC. In the install manual I can't seem to find I'm to drill any wholes at all in the rod like you have done. Is this a pro tip you and you alone have been blessed with or any idea why my manual has left that part out? Got to ask the pros! 💙😁
They changed their instructions from when I bought mine.
I suspect it’s about making it easy to install rather than getting it right.
I’m no expert either. But it seems to me that drilling the holes is required to allow the PD valves to work
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thank you. I suspect you're right. Something is off when I'm informed to use 20W oil on top of it all...
Hi. Do you know how to remove the bagues located inside the tube fork please ? I didn't find any documentation that shown how to do. Im talking about the plastics bagues inside the fork tube
Great job, guys! Adrian, is the front tyre wider than the standard?
No. It’s a standard 120/70
Love your humor.
I’m saving money, I badly want my own nc750x.
Thanks for all your videos. I have seen them all.
Do you use rust fluid? Like wd40 ore ac50?
I live in Norway, and there Are salt and ice on the road, some month of the year...
Do you have. Wash and prep for winter video?
olevegn - no need for rust prevention in Oz. No salt roads and no extreme low temps.
Thanks for your comments.
Nice video. Sir, what do you think about Andreani Misano fork cartridge (made in Italy)? It will cost approx 700$ with completely new internals. Cheers
Sorry mate. I’ve no experience with any other kit.
I chose the YSS because I believed it good value for money ($450 au) and I’ve dealt with the local distributor for many years so trust their recommendations.
Honda NC750X Stuff thank you Sir. Best regards :)
Just about to do this to my 2016 nc750s, what I would like to know is do the pre load adjusters from the X fit the S , sure there both 41mm forks
I believed they would fit.
Any tips on making sure the forks are parallel to each other when you put them back in? Markings? Calibrated eyeball?
The bottom and top triple clamps are held in line with the head stock - unless you are very rough removing the forks.
I’ve never had a problem with alignment.
Tighten Top triple clamp, screw in the rest in place loosely, sit on the bike and press down the fork (3.4 time) press the front brake and hold then you press the fork again (2, 3 times), then you can tighten the rest of the bolts harder then you have Alain the front fork right.
Great job.
Please tell me! How long (mm) was the pipe you cut?
I really need to know the standard length of the pipe!
My pipe is 200 mm.
Good job
Hi, what's the name of the adjustment screw on your suspension? Where did you buy it?
Called “Spring preload adjusters”. Bought on eBay. But they also come with the full fork upgrade kit. See link in the description.
Hello from Portugal. First of all congratulations for the channel, and your super videos, which is very useful for the arrangements on the nc750x. I bought the front kit for my 2018 nc750x rc90. Now, according to what is written in the instructions, you don't need to drill holes. yss says to use 20w oil. I find it strange that they say to use 20w. I'm afraid they'll be too rigid. What is your opinion about the viscosity to use, since you have experience. Thanks in advance.
I drilled the holes. I used 15w oil at the standard oil height after experimenting with 10, and various oil levels.
Great video, just what I was looking for as I have my Honda CB1100 Showa forks in pieces at the moment waiting for new seals to arrive and was looking at doing this upgrade. Your forks look identical internally, which gives me confidence. Just wondering what spring tension you put on the PD valve,did you do the 2 turns or more? Look forward to hearing on your impressions of the mod...cheers
I left them as standard - two turns in.
Thanks for your comments
Cheers..Just a quick question, as Im about to put my forks back together and trying to decide if this modification is worth it, I understand it might be awhile before you do your next video, can you say Yes or No if you think this was worth it? Thanks again
Ozi Goo - ha! That would be cheating if I told you.
Review should be published tonight.
Bravo bravissimo
How do you know how far to slide them back into the bike steering head thing? How do you get the 2 sides to be exactly the same? Obviously I have no idea. And no idea of the correct terminology.
I mentioned I slide the tube up till the fork cap is just above the triple clamp.
If the bike was lowered (like Wendy’s) then I use a small steel rule to measure each side.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks. How critical is it to get both sides to measure the same?
Roger Perrett - well, it’s not hard to get them the same so no reason not to. But I guess in theory having one a few mm different to the other wouldn’t be a big problem.
Hi Adrian, great videos! Can you pls confirm the 2 suspension kits you installed from YSS are the “fork upgrade kit” and the “MZ456 with hydraulic preload”? Thx
These are the options for the NC that I chose from. You should choose based on your open needs.
yssaustralia.com.au/filter?category_7=10&other_9=12&feature_11=101model-NC+750+X&feature_12=2016&type=top#
very helpful video, thanks! How comes that you have a barrel af German DAB beer (9:09 mins) in your garage?
Ha! It’s sold in Oz and was a gift from a friend. Sadly the contents didn’t last long but the Can is used as a scrap bin so it lives on.
😁👍@@AfricaTwin-Stuff
Hi
Another great video ,
the PD valves.......are they adjustable ? if so did they have any instructions/guidance as to how you set them up ? there was no mention in the vid.
Haven't seen any recent " tales " from you lately ! are you both well ?
kind regards from the UK , Derek
Yes they are adjustable when on the bench. There are guidelines in the product instructions on the settings.
We are in lockdown due to a Delta strain outbreak.
And I haven’t posted for a while as I’ve got nothing useful or interesting to say 🤪
Good job! Greetings!
I have just ordered the YSS fork upgrade kit for my 750. As you can only adjust the damping with the fork apart, what is a good starting point?
It’s a black art. Depends on your preference, weight, position of the moon …
But try starting two turns in from a loose spring on the of valve. But before you do, count the turns out till the spring is loose as they are normally already set as a “standard” rate.
Question my YSS kit does not mention drilling any further holes. So why have you drilled out the hole to 8mm. Also if this is necessary how high is the second series of holes. Interestingly the kit came with 40w oil. I guess because Thailand ( home of manufacturing) is a lot hotter tan U.K. BTW hope you are keeping well and still enjoying the Africa Twin.
For reasons unknown YSS changed their instructions after I installed mine. The instructions used to include the drilling.
Can’t remember the hole distances.
Yes still enjoying the AT.
Glad you are enjoying the AT. After listening to your thoughts on the upgrade I think I will drill out the rod. Just confirming the hole is enlarged to 8 mm?
@rocketron6677 yes 8mm.
Hello.
I have a Honda NC 750 Integra and i want to upgrade the front suspension.
What do you think about the Adreani missano cartridge.
It is a complete kit.
Sorry. I have no experience with either that bike or suspension brand.
Would be a good time to slip on some fork gaiters when the forks are out...
Personally I don’t like fork gaiters.
Dust and moisture gets trapped inside. So unless I clean inside very often, it’s worse than no gaiters.
But I can understand some like them.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff nobody likes them... they look 'retro'...... but they protect your fork legs from getting scratched and pitted and rusty if you grease them occaisionally under the covers. Just remember to clean underneath before a mot or the tester will accuse you of having a leaky fork seal.
Hi, would this kit be compatible with a progressive spring? Or, would I even need to worry about a better spring?
Yes they work with progressive springs.
Can’t comment on the need for springs. Too many variables and I’m no expert.
Best solution is to take it to a suspension specialist who can tune the forks to your needs.
Hello there, is this why the 2019 models have the www.showa1.com/en/technology/motorcycle/img/h1_sdbv.jpg upgrade ? Thanks to your Nice video “20+” I ordered a 2020 nc750x !!
Saying goodbye to KawaZX9R.. Enjoying you Chanel a lot cheers ! Herman from the Netherlands.
Don’t know. Sorry
Please allow a question about your PD valves, since I cannot open the link from Germany: They look like the YSS valves (PD 335) - is my assumption correct?.In your vid, the adapters do not fit to the damping rod but the "naked" valves do. Is your NC a >=2016 or a till 2015 model? The part numbers of the rods differ after the fork modification of the 2016 model. Reason behind my question is that I own a 2018 model and can get the naked PD335 quite cheap - but want to avoid a surprise when everything is dismounted. So if your NC is a >=2016 model (I assume it is), the chance that the naked valves should fit is not so bad :)
Yes. YSS and mine is 2016 model.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Tanks a lot! :)
Finally did the upgrade last Sunday, PD valves and rear shock. I'm more than happy with the improvement. Thanks again for your fantastic videos, it's a big, big help.
hey, I'm currently trying to change the fork oil seals, I already did it once but my friend and I couldn't get the bolt at the bottom of the fork ( 5:40 ) out, we were able to loosen it but now the insides are turning with the screw. We also put the spring back in and closed it, that should help but even that didn't work. How do I get this screw out? The problem is the same on both forks, the last time it was no problem.
Sorry. I don’t know. I haven’t had that problem on any of my bikes in the past either.
You might try putting a long flat piece of steel down the tube to hold the damping rod from rotating. The screw attaches to the bottom of the damping rod.
Be careful using scotch brite. It is an abrasive and green is equivalent to around 600 grit sandpaper. Not really something you want to be using on your forks.
I have all of the bits for this and the rear suspension upgrade - but cannot get a topnut 38mm octagonal wrench anywhere - does anyone have any suggestions?? Many thanks.Ian
Just use a shifter wrench.
Wondering why no recent vids. Hope all is well with you.
Regards.
All ok, thanks for asking. My “ideas well” has run dry so no new vids 😢
So you measure your oil height with the fork leg compressed or fully extended?
Cheers
Compressed and without the spring in.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff cheers mate. Good vid
Very inspiring......can I borrow Norm?
Ha! Yes. I’ll push him through the phone now.
Is there any guide as to how much one should screw in the compression damping on the YSS valve?
The instructions say “two turns in” is the standard setting and can be increased up to seven turns in iv you want more damping.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thanks for replying... hope the next episode validates the upgrade...
Good old norm
Yep he is definitely “old”, and rumour has it he is occasionally “good” 😁
Hi. What is the function of the pinch bolt at the left side?
Sorry. Don’t understand. Left side of what? Which bolt ?
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff that you take away before the axel. (Left side of the susp)
You measure the sag with your loaded weight on the bike, no?
Yes. There are two measures -
Static sag: Difference between full extension and when the weight of the bike sags the forks
Active: difference between bike unladen and with the rider sitting on the bike.
I measured both but didn’t go into detail in this one as I did that with the shock vid.
I added the Benny Hill music with the mouth trumpet...I don't think the home minister appreciated it as much as I did but...meh. Nice job
So Bob was your Uncle?
Yep. Confirmed!
Did the manual say 514mm or 514ml?
514 millilitres volume.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Hi, thanks, I have noticed your 2016 forks are different to my 2016 European spec forks. Mine has the showa dual bend forks, I suspect is similar to what you have done.
Should have heated the copper seal.
Hello again, is there something weird about me for watching an old man like myself messing about with motorbikes?🧐 And enjoying them? However, have you changed your very attractive assistant, because there was no mention of a brain 🧠 in you last video? Also where did uncle Bob go? If you keep changing the cast is It any wonder I get confused 😐
Ha! Bob was there - I mentioned “Robert is my mother’s brother” = Uncle Bob!
Honda NC750X Stuff yes you did mention him but I’m old things slip pass me😂 keep up the good work
Victor Dunn - yep. Know THAT feeling.
I think you ended up with too much fork oil in your forks.. The measurement is based on the displacement of the spring not the spring plus pd valve.. So I'm guessing you put the pd valve in before final measurement? What do you think? Cheers
No. Definitely no spring. The PD valve instructions said oil before the valve. But I had the same question. The valve isn’t at all solid but it made a slight difference to the oil height.
Oil height effects the damping as it increases or decreases the air gap. So oil height is often used for this purpose. The “recommended” height is just the standard not the “must only be” height.
Yes definatley no spring, but to get the same oil height the PD valve would need to go in before the oil. I rang YSS and the guy said PD valve before the oil so we got 2 diferent answers from the same company...lol..but as you said the oil height can be used as an adjustment as can the oil viscosity so whatever works best in the end for each case..cheers
Ozi Goo - thanks for your comment. I was definitely confused as like you, I expected the vale to be inserted before the oil bug the instructions said otherwise.
But in the end all is OK with my forks so I just had a nice cup of tea and a lie down till the feeling passed.
Just a temporary vid makers block then.
Honda. Seni mühendis diye işe alsa, satışları ikiye katlar..😀
Incredibly, the NC700X "instructions" don't state drilling a hole, the importer says follow the instructions, basic bloody logic says this is nonsense. I'll be drilling as it makes no sense to put a PD valve on top of an already crappily designed damping rod.
Yep. Agree. When I bought mine the instructions DID say to drill. Later, this was removed from instructions.
I suspect it was a bid to make it look easier to install and therefore sell more product.
NORM
And Honda couldn't have done it from the get-go ⁉ 🤢