I look forward to hearing from others who have had experience with the adjusters, particularly if you have or have not found the adjuster bolt to back itself out while being ridden. Cheers for any insight and thanks for watching.
You might be able to drill a small hole through the 8mm top nut and the larger 24mm bottom nut and safety wire the top nut to the bottom nut once you get the preload you're happy with. This will stop the adjuster bolt from backing out.
I have these on 2019. V-strom 650, no problems at all. Paid 25$ for them. They're tight, don't unscrew and work just fine. I've had them for a year now.
The colour on the large washer is more indicative of cad plating or passivating than heat treatment. I’m intrigued by how the adjuster screws are unwinding. Are the threads jumping or stripping? I went with the Cogent version a few months and they’ve been flawless, but significantly more expensive obviously. It’s amazing how much tuning is achievable with a few turns of adjustment.
I can only guess without disassembling to check but I don't believe it has stripped the threads at all. Screwing action is still smooth. I'm under the impression the spring is spinning or the vibration is the culprit. Thanks for the explanation 👍
Same thoughts, I bought the Cogent as well and have zero issues with anything relating to them. Theirs takes a 12mm wrench, have 6 bars of height adjustment and you don’t see the threads like on yours - might not have any bearing on this but those are differences I noticed. No name Chinese products are known for wildly ranging quality though, some are great, some a hard no…for the same thing. An indexed lock washer or safety wire could fix your wind out issue but what a PITA. Good video, thanks for the review.
I use a sharpie/marker to make it obvious where the bolt/nut etc is, when in the 'correct' spot, regarding suspect nuts/bolts etc. I think finding the right lock nut, so you can lock the adjuster down, and loosen as needed for further adjustment would beat using locktite. Even when you think you have it perfect, locktiting it will make if more of a hassle to change later, pretty rare that one setting is going to be perfect all the time imv.
Since adding loctite often adjust the setting whether or not the bike is loaded and the cap has been accepting and holding the setting fine. Thanks for your analysis 👍
I remember my old 1991 DR came with these. Strange how the DR has gone backwards since then. There is a few other differences compared to 2013 DR. Good video mate.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this and hopefully they will do what they are supposed too and i can upgrade from the DIY spacer and 15w fork oil.Not many choices out there for us budget bikers ha ha.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Need to lose 20kg of gut first and the acerbis tank also adding to it so was getting a lot of rebound noise when the weight came off so went for the thicker oil and it has made some improvement. Thanks for the advice though.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Yeah if you get it sorted it will be a very cheap addition, if not just chuck it in the shed, eventually it'll come in handy for something.
I was about to ask if the internals of the adjuster was notched with a spring loaded ball bearing to retain its setting, but I think I can now assume not.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Ok I finally got around to changing my fork oil. Bike has done 12.000ks. Rather than go the adjustable route. I turned some industrial Acetal to 25mm and made spacers on the lathe, so we will see how that goes. I can always remove them. I dont have the 6mm spacers like you showed, only the std metal sleeve. However 25mm preload will just take out the slump when you sit on it and just take that light skipping feeling when riding I suspect. Thanks for the idea of self modification as I wanted to do something but had not made up my mind. Next step rear shock, new spring minimum mod. What are your views on the rear??
The problem I can see with this is I have dropped my forks down in the triple-trees so they are just about touching the handlebars in order to lower the bike in the front a bit, so if I installed these I would have raise the front end back up again.
Ordered a set for a gen 2 klr. Wrong size too small. They said they were the biggest size they’ve got. Got a refund. Apparently the 14.5 klr got thicker forks. Just beware they’re advertised to suit 2008-2018
After the muffler and this preload piece i am starting to think the cheapest option can be more expensive in the long run lol. I have a set of fork preload adjusters for a harley dyna (Roland Sands) sitting on my shelf so had a quick look at them to see if the spring could turn them but they have a ridge and a groove to stop them spinning. Rough and ready lock wire the centre adjuster lol ps i think the gold washer will bend to a bowl shape eventually
Haha buy cheap buy twice! That's interesting the dyna adjusters have measures in place for this problem, I will have to double check these. I also expect that washer to cup over time (one of the original reasons for the test)
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I look forward to hearing from others who have had experience with the adjusters, particularly if you have or have not found the adjuster bolt to back itself out while being ridden.
Cheers for any insight and thanks for watching.
did it kill you ?
@@DJIInLondon not yet
You might be able to drill a small hole through the 8mm top nut and the larger 24mm bottom nut and safety wire the top nut to the bottom nut once you get the preload you're happy with. This will stop the adjuster bolt from backing out.
Loktite done the trick, have made a follow up video on this
drill and tap the top for a set screw.
I have these on 2019. V-strom 650, no problems at all. Paid 25$ for them. They're tight, don't unscrew and work just fine. I've had them for a year now.
They're pretty sweet
Same here
i added an extra tighter oring that fixed it perfectly and created a better seal overall. less than 1.50 at the local hardware store
awesome tip, ill look into it when i finally get around to taking those forks apart again, cheers!
The colour on the large washer is more indicative of cad plating or passivating than heat treatment. I’m intrigued by how the adjuster screws are unwinding. Are the threads jumping or stripping? I went with the Cogent version a few months and they’ve been flawless, but significantly more expensive obviously. It’s amazing how much tuning is achievable with a few turns of adjustment.
I can only guess without disassembling to check but I don't believe it has stripped the threads at all. Screwing action is still smooth. I'm under the impression the spring is spinning or the vibration is the culprit.
Thanks for the explanation 👍
Same thoughts, I bought the Cogent as well and have zero issues with anything relating to them.
Theirs takes a 12mm wrench, have 6 bars of height adjustment and you don’t see the threads like on yours - might not have any bearing on this but those are differences I noticed.
No name Chinese products are known for wildly ranging quality though, some are great, some a hard no…for the same thing.
An indexed lock washer or safety wire could fix your wind out issue but what a PITA.
Good video, thanks for the review.
I use a sharpie/marker to make it
obvious where the bolt/nut etc is, when in
the 'correct' spot, regarding suspect nuts/bolts etc.
I think finding the right lock nut, so you can
lock the adjuster down, and loosen as needed
for further adjustment would beat using locktite.
Even when you think you have it perfect, locktiting
it will make if more of a hassle to change later,
pretty rare that one setting is going to be perfect
all the time imv.
Since adding loctite often adjust the setting whether or not the bike is loaded and the cap has been accepting and holding the setting fine.
Thanks for your analysis 👍
I remember my old 1991 DR came with these. Strange how the DR has gone backwards since then. There is a few other differences compared to 2013 DR.
Good video mate.
I wonder if they experienced problems with that iteration or just tried to simplify. Definitely a handy adjustment to have.
Interested to know how these ended up working out.
Coming at ya next week!
Thanks for sharing your experience with this and hopefully they will do what they are supposed too and i can upgrade from the DIY spacer and 15w fork oil.Not many choices out there for us budget bikers ha ha.
Here's hoping! I recommend getting rid of that 15W syrup, shits nasty. I found 7.5W to be the go.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Need to lose 20kg of gut first and the acerbis tank also adding to it so was getting a lot of rebound noise when the weight came off so went for the thicker oil and it has made some improvement. Thanks for the advice though.
Hey Skids, looking forward to seeing how you sort this one out!
Here's to hoping it's positive!
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Yeah if you get it sorted it will be a very cheap addition, if not just chuck it in the shed, eventually it'll come in handy for something.
Thank you very much man your video was very useful for me good job!!!!!
Good work, looking forward to see how it ends up
Thanks you slow
The coating on the washer is called alodine. It’s a chemical bath.
Thanks Ceaser. After some locktite the caps have been great for fine adjustment and ease of balancing the bike out when loaded.
@@SKIDSnSTUFF I snagged a set for the Harley. We will see how it works out.
I use Cogent one's on my pig, never had them ever back out!
These don't back out any more either.
I was about to ask if the internals of the adjuster was notched with a spring loaded ball bearing to retain its setting, but I think I can now assume not.
I will disassemble and check that during testing when i get a chance. Will definitely need to do something about it.
The gold colour is just a passivation coating to limit corrosion. Just wash your hands arfter touching it and before you eat, smoke etc.
I will eat passivation coating all I like, you're not my mum.
Thanks for the insight 👍
Nice mate keen see how it goes
Will be sure to get back to yall about it, things are looking more positive now
3:06 made that look so easy lol....
mounted on my transalp 650 - no problem so far
Thanks for the feedback Carlo
I will watch with interest to see how they go. I thought std fork oil was 10w for DR's ??
Something like that. I prefer a little lighter
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Ok I finally got around to changing my fork oil. Bike has done 12.000ks. Rather than go the adjustable route. I turned some industrial Acetal to 25mm and made spacers on the lathe, so we will see how that goes. I can always remove them. I dont have the 6mm spacers like you showed, only the std metal sleeve. However 25mm preload will just take out the slump when you sit on it and just take that light skipping feeling when riding I suspect. Thanks for the idea of self modification as I wanted to do something but had not made up my mind. Next step rear shock, new spring minimum mod. What are your views on the rear??
@@aussiefarmer8741 if you're too heavy (or loaded) for the standard spring, like most of us, then you will also need a revalve
Sorry if I missed your follow up video to this product evaluation. What do you think about the product and did the issue with the bolt get resolved?
Still haven't finished the vid. The caps are fine, loctite or thread tape stopped the spinning
Did you ever resolve the issue with it backing out on it's own? Do you recommend these?
Locktite seems to have worked, or maybe it was the thread tape. I like being able to make fine adjustment between loaded and unloaded
What i wonder is how well it is sealed? like the chance of water ingress?
They seem to be air tight so water ingress should not be a problem but will keep an eye on it for the final review. Thanks for the suggestion
The problem I can see with this is I have dropped my forks down in the triple-trees so they are just about touching the handlebars in order to lower the bike in the front a bit, so if I installed these I would have raise the front end back up again.
The forks can be more readily lowered internally
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Shorter springs you mean?
@Billy SBC no, spring length does not matter. The correct way to lower the fork has a spacer installed below the spring
@@SKIDSnSTUFF You remove the spacer below the spring?
@Billy SBC you Add a spacer underneath the damper rod spring
www.advrider.com/f/threads/factory-lowering-a-dr650.176223/
Wow, Owen Wilson's brother?
Wow
got a set of these sitting on my bench i bought and never used we'll see how they work or can be fixed by ya
Will get back to ya after a thorough frolicking
Ordered a set for a gen 2 klr. Wrong size too small. They said they were the biggest size they’ve got. Got a refund. Apparently the 14.5 klr got thicker forks. Just beware they’re advertised to suit 2008-2018
Good advice thanks for the heads up Peter!
After the muffler and this preload piece i am starting to think the cheapest option can be more expensive in the long run lol.
I have a set of fork preload adjusters for a harley dyna (Roland Sands) sitting on my shelf so had a quick look at them to see if the spring could turn them but they have a ridge and a groove to stop them spinning.
Rough and ready lock wire the centre adjuster lol
ps i think the gold washer will bend to a bowl shape eventually
Haha buy cheap buy twice!
That's interesting the dyna adjusters have measures in place for this problem, I will have to double check these.
I also expect that washer to cup over time (one of the original reasons for the test)
Did you do this to a dr650? Was it worth it? Or is it better to buy all new springs?
@@LoganTech98 depending on your weight, uprated springs are the way to go with valving to suit
@@SKIDSnSTUFF ok I’ll probably have 170 including gear, would you recommend new springs or the preload adjusters?
@@LoganTech98 springs and valving. The preload does a completely different job
Hey bro where did you find the fork oil? I can seem to find it anywhere online
I bought from ebay before but usually from an auto or moto store
Nice video, any update on these caps ? Did you solve the unwinding problem?
Loctite and thread tape seems to have stopped them unwinding
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Thanks for the update
Hello, mate. What was the long term verdict on these ? Yay or nay ?
Got the video in the can now. Yay
@@SKIDSnSTUFF Superb mate. 👍
🤘🏻 🏍 🤘
Yer not a metalerger?
I know it may seem that way
Update?
Gotta flick them over to my new bike still to finish the test video. Thread tape and loctite fixed them self winding.