My 1050 Tiger (same clutch), 75000 miles. Still with original discs and plates. No problems so far. Be kinder to your clutch people. Do clutchless gear changes when you can. Change (good quality) oil EVERY year regardless of mileage. This advise from a 73 year old rider. Stay safe all.
Bonjour, super vidéo pour montrer le démontage d'un embrayage d'un speed triple. Je l'ai fait aujourd'hui. 2 conseils : 1 faire tremper les disques dans l'huile toute une nuit (qu'ils soient neufs ou issu de votre embrayage) et 2 remplacer un disque lisse de 2.0 par un 1.6 au remontage. Et là plus de problème d'embrayage qui colle ou un point mort introuvable sauf quand le moteur est coupé (vachement pratique merci Triumph!). N'oubliez pas de lubrifier le câble d'embrayage, le réglage de la garde à faire aux petits oignons au niveau du moteur et mettre en position 1 le levier pour avoir le plus d'allonge possible. Bien à vous!
@@marclaurent4967 Bonjour, non j'ai mis un joint de carter neuf. J'ai toujours ma moto et malgré les modifications énoncées dans mon commentaire j'ai remarqué que la tension de la chaîne était très importante aussi. En fait il ne faut que celle-ci soit trop tendue sinon le passage des vitesses sera compliquée ainsi que la recherche du point mort. Il y a donc ce point-ci à vérifier également. Pour info j'ai mis de l'huile 10W50 de grande distribution et ça marche bien, pas besoin de se ruiner à acheter de la marque. Bien à vous.
Fantastic video, I will be doing this in the coming weekend, excactly the same symptoms. Clunking when changing from 1st to 2nd, can't find neutral when the engine is hot. I have ordered the plates and gaskets but will try to do this job without changing them, depends on how bad they are. Mine is a 35k 2010 Speed Triple Thanks again for the video
@@thiaguinhooitodois2211 After doing it myself now, I can confirm that you do NOT have to drain the oil. There will be only a few drops coming out that you can refill afterwards!
There is a spring behind the gear housing.. that spring maybe has come loose and also causing gear/clutch problems. You should have checked that one before putting everything back.
Hi, when you said remove plates and clean them, did you mean very gently clean them with wet dry paper 1200 ? or what do you mean clean then, how ? thanks
road stermah my clutch plates had a sticky residue on them. I cleaned them using a dry rag. This fix worked for about 4 months before the problem returned. It is a problem with stock plates from Triumph. I later replaced them with parts from Barnett and they have worked perfect ever since. Good luck.
Thank you for your reply. Would you please tell me more about Barnett, where and how did you purchase them. I never heard about Barnett, are they cheaper and better than triumph clutch disks. thanks
I googled them and ordered them online. Not sure if they are cheaper but triumph plates will develop the same problem. You might have to get them shipped from an online supplier. Good luck
road stermah I replaced both clutch and friction plates. I put in new springs too since I had it open. Clutch parts were less than 300$. Dont forget to pick up new gaskets. Good luck
Thanks for the helpfull info! Also the comments were really helpful Currently waiting for a updated plate set. I heard the newer ones have holes in them.
Thanks for the video, very nice. Wouldn't it be better overall for the health of your bike to start it once every week and let it idle for 10 minutes or so during winter?
Graham Lancaster - We have a speed triple with very similar symptoms. We tried soaking the plates in oil, but the issue came back. Even replaced the clutch fibre plates with new ones and the issue still persists with the plates sticking to each other. Did you find a solution? Hows yours going?
I'm having a problem with my clutch on my Daytona 675R. I do feel the stickcking a bit and the clutch lever feeling isnt the same and feels like there is a bite. Also, when i start up the bike in the morning, there is a grinding noise coming from the clutch side. Do you think it has to do with the plates ? the bike runs, shifts fine with no issues at all.
Cheers for the video Graham. I'm in identical situation with a 2010 Sprint ST. Currently waiting for new clutch pack (friction and steel rings) from Triumph. You say you replaced your friction rings with aftermarket parts ... was this purely for cost or did you hear they perform better? What make did you choose? Also, did you happen to examine your clutch pull pin? Mine is a plain machined shaft which sits in the end of the hollow gearbox shaft. I believe later models have an oil-way machined into the mating surface to increase oil flow to the clutch plates. I've seen on a couple of forums people recommend filing/grinding a flat on this surface to aid oil flow. I'm a little reluctant to do that, but also I'm worried that if the underlying problem hasn't been cured I might just fry the new £200 clutch plates :-0 Any further thoughts you might offer would be very much appreciated :-)
crankypedals I used Barnett parts. I did not trust the oem parts because the original problem could have been repeated. I hadn't heard of any other fixes, my guess it that the clutch plates had a chemistry issue that was reacting with heat and oil to get gummy and stick together. Been great since. Good luck with your repair
Yup. Clutch cover reaches low on the engine. If you’re just taking the ENGINE cover off (to access the sprag clutch etc.) just tipping the bike over to the left (further over than the side stand allows. About 30deg) wont necessitated draining.
I have seen it more than once that the lifter/actuator arm wears the edges and then it cannot fully disengage the clutch we replace the lifter arm and the plunger this is on higher milage bikes
i found my lifter arm in very bad conditions on a speed triple 2006 (35.000 km) : worn out in the bearings zone and on the edge matching with clutch pull rod. i'm very disappointed about quality of metal used...
happened to one of my bikes 1990 fzr 400, i put some seafoam in the oil and ran it for a while then let it sit for two days, started it back up and the clutch wasnt sticking anymore, so just swapped the oil and called it done, easy fix, try it next time
I am just curious, I have the exact same year and model triumph speed triple. I’m having the same problem with my clutch I think. I need your opinion though so I can know for sure. My clutch isn’t wanting to engage properly. Whenever I slow down to a stop and engage the clutch, I’m having to blip the throttle when so that the clutch actually lets go and engages and when I came to a stop last time, the clutch didn’t engage and then the bike stalled when i stopped. Also that same morning I started the bike and I had the kickstand up and clutch fully engaged, it stalled twice when trying to click it down to first? Is this by chance the same problem you had?
Moto Mentality yes. Your clutch plates are sticking. Common problem in our bikes. The fix I did lasted about 3 months before the problem started happening again. I ended up replacing the clutch plates and springs with aftermarket parts. Works perfect now and had for a year. Good luck. The repair is easy so try it yourself if you feel like it.
I have a 2012 triumph daytona 675R, what brand of clutch plate//springs/gasket would you recommend? Did you hand tighten the screw or torque it down to specification? Thanks. I'm having trouble finding neutral and when the clutch is pulled in, it does seem like something sounds loose inside haha Also, how would you go about cleaning it? Can you soak it in the old oil or new oil?
My 1050 Tiger (same clutch), 75000 miles. Still with original discs and plates. No problems so far. Be kinder to your clutch people. Do clutchless gear changes when you can. Change (good quality) oil EVERY year regardless of mileage. This advise from a 73 year old rider. Stay safe all.
Bonjour, super vidéo pour montrer le démontage d'un embrayage d'un speed triple. Je l'ai fait aujourd'hui. 2 conseils : 1 faire tremper les disques dans l'huile toute une nuit (qu'ils soient neufs ou issu de votre embrayage) et 2 remplacer un disque lisse de 2.0 par un 1.6 au remontage. Et là plus de problème d'embrayage qui colle ou un point mort introuvable sauf quand le moteur est coupé (vachement pratique merci Triumph!). N'oubliez pas de lubrifier le câble d'embrayage, le réglage de la garde à faire aux petits oignons au niveau du moteur et mettre en position 1 le levier pour avoir le plus d'allonge possible. Bien à vous!
Bonjour,
Vous avez aussi gardé les même joint de carter ?
@@marclaurent4967 Bonjour, non j'ai mis un joint de carter neuf. J'ai toujours ma moto et malgré les modifications énoncées dans mon commentaire j'ai remarqué que la tension de la chaîne était très importante aussi. En fait il ne faut que celle-ci soit trop tendue sinon le passage des vitesses sera compliquée ainsi que la recherche du point mort. Il y a donc ce point-ci à vérifier également. Pour info j'ai mis de l'huile 10W50 de grande distribution et ça marche bien, pas besoin de se ruiner à acheter de la marque. Bien à vous.
Fantastic video, I will be doing this in the coming weekend, excactly the same symptoms. Clunking when changing from 1st to 2nd, can't find neutral when the engine is hot.
I have ordered the plates and gaskets but will try to do this job without changing them, depends on how bad they are.
Mine is a 35k 2010 Speed Triple
Thanks again for the video
Red Thunder glad you liked it. Don't forget to replace the gaskets if needed. Good luck with the repair.
You did not change the gasket?
Is it ok to keep the old one?
Do you have to drain the engine oil before?
Yes
@@thiaguinhooitodois2211 After doing it myself now, I can confirm that you do NOT have to drain the oil. There will be only a few drops coming out that you can refill afterwards!
There is a spring behind the gear housing.. that spring maybe has come loose and also causing gear/clutch problems. You should have checked that one before putting everything back.
Instead of soaking them in oil isnt better if u get a new clutch plates instead? Cheers
Nice job! A have the same broblem on tiger 1050 .but have change only discks not spring?
Did you worry about gasket damage or replacement when doing this?
Is there a trick to hook the clutch lever arm to the pull-thingy when putting the cover back on? I am stumped!!! Please help!
Is there standing oil behind the any of the covers? Are you sure you need to drain?
What brand after market clutch plates did you buy? And still no problems with those?
Hi, when you said remove plates and clean them, did you mean very gently clean them with wet dry paper 1200 ? or what do you mean clean then, how ? thanks
road stermah my clutch plates had a sticky residue on them. I cleaned them using a dry rag. This fix worked for about 4 months before the problem returned. It is a problem with stock plates from Triumph. I later replaced them with parts from Barnett and they have worked perfect ever since. Good luck.
Thank you for your reply. Would you please tell me more about Barnett, where and how did you purchase them. I never heard about Barnett, are they cheaper and better than triumph clutch disks. thanks
I googled them and ordered them online. Not sure if they are cheaper but triumph plates will develop the same problem. You might have to get them shipped from an online supplier. Good luck
Hi, did you replace just the clutch plates itself? or clutch plates and friction plates together ?
road stermah I replaced both clutch and friction plates. I put in new springs too since I had it open. Clutch parts were less than 300$. Dont forget to pick up new gaskets. Good luck
Thanks for the helpfull info! Also the comments were really helpful
Currently waiting for a updated plate set. I heard the newer ones have holes in them.
All he did was take the clutch out and put it back in again what was the repair that caused the fault
Thanks for the video, very nice.
Wouldn't it be better overall for the health of your bike to start it once every week and let it idle for 10 minutes or so during winter?
Graham Lancaster - We have a speed triple with very similar symptoms. We tried soaking the plates in oil, but the issue came back. Even replaced the clutch fibre plates with new ones and the issue still persists with the plates sticking to each other. Did you find a solution? Hows yours going?
Bro doesn’t even use a torque wrench absolute og
ou ce trouve la roulette de verouillage de selection de vitesse
I'm having a problem with my clutch on my Daytona 675R. I do feel the stickcking a bit and the clutch lever feeling isnt the same and feels like there is a bite. Also, when i start up the bike in the morning, there is a grinding noise coming from the clutch side. Do you think it has to do with the plates ? the bike runs, shifts fine with no issues at all.
I would have it looked at. Maybe pull it apart yourself and look into it. Would cost you an oil change and some gaskets though.
Cheers for the video Graham. I'm in identical situation with a 2010 Sprint ST. Currently waiting for new clutch pack (friction and steel rings) from Triumph. You say you replaced your friction rings with aftermarket parts ... was this purely for cost or did you hear they perform better? What make did you choose? Also, did you happen to examine your clutch pull pin? Mine is a plain machined shaft which sits in the end of the hollow gearbox shaft. I believe later models have an oil-way machined into the mating surface to increase oil flow to the clutch plates. I've seen on a couple of forums people recommend filing/grinding a flat on this surface to aid oil flow. I'm a little reluctant to do that, but also I'm worried that if the underlying problem hasn't been cured I might just fry the new £200 clutch plates :-0
Any further thoughts you might offer would be very much appreciated :-)
crankypedals I used Barnett parts. I did not trust the oem parts because the original problem could have been repeated. I hadn't heard of any other fixes, my guess it that the clutch plates had a chemistry issue that was reacting with heat and oil to get gummy and stick together. Been great since. Good luck with your repair
Cheers for the info Graham. Ride safe mate :-)
I ment to mention the music was quite fitting too, it is now playing in our office :)
Gotta drain the oil out for this?
Yup. Clutch cover reaches low on the engine. If you’re just taking the ENGINE cover off (to access the sprag clutch etc.) just tipping the bike over to the left (further over than the side stand allows. About 30deg) wont necessitated draining.
I have seen it more than once that the lifter/actuator arm wears the edges and then it cannot fully disengage the clutch we replace the lifter arm and the plunger this is on higher milage bikes
i found my lifter arm in very bad conditions on a speed triple 2006 (35.000 km) : worn out in the bearings zone and on the edge matching with clutch pull rod. i'm very disappointed about quality of metal used...
happened to one of my bikes 1990 fzr 400, i put some seafoam in the oil and ran it for a while then let it sit for two days, started it back up and the clutch wasnt sticking anymore, so just swapped the oil and called it done, easy fix, try it next time
Don’t miss those two 8mm bolts hidden under the starter motor cover when removing the engine sprag clutch cover.
that mia singing ?
Tenho uma Triumph Tiger 2008 1050 abs branca
I am just curious, I have the exact same year and model triumph speed triple. I’m having the same problem with my clutch I think. I need your opinion though so I can know for sure. My clutch isn’t wanting to engage properly. Whenever I slow down to a stop and engage the clutch, I’m having to blip the throttle when so that the clutch actually lets go and engages and when I came to a stop last time, the clutch didn’t engage and then the bike stalled when i stopped. Also that same morning I started the bike and I had the kickstand up and clutch fully engaged, it stalled twice when trying to click it down to first? Is this by chance the same problem you had?
Moto Mentality yes. Your clutch plates are sticking. Common problem in our bikes. The fix I did lasted about 3 months before the problem started happening again. I ended up replacing the clutch plates and springs with aftermarket parts. Works perfect now and had for a year. Good luck. The repair is easy so try it yourself if you feel like it.
I have a 2012 triumph daytona 675R, what brand of clutch plate//springs/gasket would you recommend? Did you hand tighten the screw or torque it down to specification? Thanks. I'm having trouble finding neutral and when the clutch is pulled in, it does seem like something sounds loose inside haha Also, how would you go about cleaning it? Can you soak it in the old oil or new oil?
merci
Do you need more friends bro? Lmao I could use a dude like you to hit up when the 955 gets weird 😂
I loved the sh it out of this!!! Very motivating!