i done the same in mine for nearly 6 years of actual abuse because i hated it.......but after all that abuse for so long without missing a beat I came to respect them for their toughness.....that eventually grew and evolved into the love/obsession I have for them today! Best Car Ever Built in Aus!
I have the same respect for my Getz believe it or not, I drive it like my XR6 and it just keeps going and going...its on 350 thousand km, the oil is as black as night, I only use water in the radiator and I have never ever even looked at the plugs..the only drama I have ever had has been flat tyres, or seperated tread on tyres...I hate it, but I kinda love it now since the XR6 has the milkshake thing going on atm lol
Nice 👍 imagine how she will run now. This is why the AU’s are such a valuable car, not to everyone else... but to their owners. They are survivors with legendary reliability.
For all the oil experts lurking in my comments: The full-synthetic 10W-40 is what Nulon lists on their website (& Supercheap's) specifically for the AU S2. Feel free to use whatever oil you like in your car though. I've also seen a few people suggesting the "10" in "10W40" is the HOT rating, and the "40" is cold - which according to the oil companies themselves is absolutely false. Have a read: www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/oil-types-weights-and-viscosity-faq
Virtually disappeared now, though saw a straggler here in Australia last year in good nick. They had the more sophisticated Duratec V6. No Vulcan V6s were sold here.
The leads were from an AU l. The ll and lll had a different coil with different connectors. Fallen for the same thing myself. Luckily at the time I had a l and a lll so I could still use them when I was given my AUlll SR it hadn’t had an oil change or filters s for 6 years.
Thanks for showing these tasks - I've never done a fuel filter and will now give it a go. My two bob's worth when you get an AUII - change the engine oil and filter on day one. If the filter is difficult to unscrew, that tells you that the oil has been in there for a long time and has degraded. Test coolant condition (Ford spare parts guys will give you a couple of test strips), test brake fluid (meter $15 on ebay). Clean plug leads to avoid tracking, but I wouldn't worry about changing them unless there is a misfire and determined that it's not plugs or coil. If your car is on lpg, then spark plugs need to be in top condition (Ford AGS23C08). Telltale for tired plugs is momentary hesitation under uphill load at freeway speed. Diff oil has probably never been changed and is easy to do. Changing trans oil (Castrol TQ95) and filter is a good move, especially if the car has a towbar. Power steering oil (Nulon SYN75W85) is often overlooked. Change if it smells like burnt caramel. I just suck it out of the reservoir and replace without undoing anything, then drive a bit, turning steering wheel lock to lock, then replace oil again. Probably gets about 80% fresh oil that way. Cheers
Love my AU, thanks for the servicing advice. I've had my mechanic replace oil, oil filter, air filter. But now you have me thinking about when the fuel filter, spark plugs and spark leads were last replaced. Leave it with me, I'm on it...
I learnt something about spark plugs! So the copper replacement plugs won't last 80k, but the motor is certainly running beautifully with them. Also, when I bought the old AU I didn't really care about it, which is why I didn't do all of this earlier. Still no excuse to have left it this long, but sometimes time gets away from us. So if your car is overdue for a bit of lovin', go out and give it some today ❤
The main reason vehicles use platinum or iridium tip plugs is due to lean burn in the cylinders. Lasting longer is just a beneficial side effect. Using copper tip plugs in these engines will only last 20K km before they start to break down, not the 40K older cars used to get.
Hi Shaun, love your channel.I know not many worry about it but on these older cars when you buy them[I have an AU] is check and replace the rubber exhaust hangers, give all the door and boot rubber seals a good clean and treat them with a good detail spray or rubber rejuvenator, put new wipers on, top up windshield washer fluid and a few other things.Once done you dont have to worry down the track about having to do one thing here one thing there , these minor details are not difficult and are worth while IMO.
Hey Shaun, heads up bro... trick of the trade. Throttle body cleaner. Remove air induction pipes, spray in throttle body until clean. Start engine and rev, blow all the crap out! Better throttle response, starts, fuel usage etc. Keep up the good vids mate.
First one I've ever changed to be honest. I've always avoided it because I thought fuel from the tank would just keep pouring out and it seemed dangerous. Actually it ended up being one of the simplest things!
It's good practice to use an engine oil flush additive to the old oil before draining following the directions of the product used this helps remove any gunk build up & stops contamination of the new oil i also personally jack up the opposite side of car to the drain plug this helps with removing any excess oil left on the bottom of the sump as I'm not in a rush it sits like this for 30 minutes also make sure your engine oil is warm before starting oil change as this helps with drainage
On my fairmont ghia auiii 5l 2002 after clocking up 95000km it suddenly started bunny hopping. It never occurred to me that it was the fuel filter and luckily I was able to get home after resting for a while on the roadside. In the end I couldn't even move it out of the garage. Its had a regular 10,000km service by my local ford dealer up to then but low and behold when I removed the fuel filter and cut it open, it was completely gummed up. It was the original factory filter that had never been replaced. When I remonstrated with the garage about this, they said they only change fuel filters on request.
I did the fuel filter in my bf a couple weeks back. The one pulled from the au wasnt the original. The one in my bf was as ive had that car since near new and do all the maintenance myself. The brown fuel with a few bits of debris was nothing compared to the thick sludge that came out of my 195k old original filter. It resembled chocolate sauce.
The other day on a forum I read a suggestion about using a length of duct tape to partially wrap around it, and then pulling the end of the tape to assist in getting it moving. Thought it was a great idea!
That oil looks like the same colour as what came out of my BA when i bought it. Just like a falcon to have the most disgusting oil running through it and still power on like a champion
The good old AU! Don’t worry, my EB II came with a manual, an RACV brochure, some 80s road maps and a handful of plastic forks.... oh yeah, and ants! No service history. It’s just an old Falcon thing!
Just copped your latest vid on your awesome AU... Wow how clean is that engine bay !!! Like you I like my engine area clean. Pretty much do the same as what you covered in cleaning the AU engine vid. Love ya work. I'm currently trolling the used ads as I'm after a clean AU or BA. Just can't make my mind up.... Lol.
Very little in common. Never buy first model of a new release. Due to this, AU 2 & 3 are now dearer than BA1 & 2 comparative models, except manual XR8.
I find it’s also a good little tip to pour a splash of oil into the new filter before installing it as well, even though that one, might feel even more violated 😂
These are a pleasure to change the oil on compared to my Laser and V8 Fairlane. The filter is so accessible as well as the sump plug. Ford made these with ease of maintenance in mind. It sounds like you have a crook pulley bearing mate.
@@MotoringBoxTV It came as a real eye opener when I changed oil and filter on someone's AUII Ute for the first time. It was a holiday over all other cars I've done (CL Valiant, VS Commodore V6, KE Laser and the Fairlane V8).
So i did some internet digging, that fuel filter has been replaced at some stage as AUs are meant to come with Motor craft instead of Ryco, however its been quite a while as Ryco has not used that logo for their automotive filters for quite a while, im guessing that fuel filter was last done before 2014
I use Motorcraft ones myself because I did a service on a friend's AU and he bought a cheap aftermarket service kit. The fuel filter nut hadn't been fully threaded and it leaked heaps of fuel. I couldn't understand why it just wouldn't seal and he didn't believe that it wasn't my fault until I bought a Motorcraft one with my own money and fitted it successfully. He then reimbursed me for it and when I inspected the cheap one carefully I could see the thread didn't go all the way into the nut
I have an AU 1 1998 with the VCT motor and only use 5w30 Valvoline as recommended......No oil burns between services and it seems to be a very low oil burning engine.....I need to change the leads and Coil Pack soon together with the fuel filter.....Coil packs are needed every 100,000 km or so....
Buy a Z9 oil filter cup tool if you're having trouble with a strap wrench. They are great for tight spots. New Toyota's require them for there cartridge filters.
I always check that the filter you take off has its o ring still on it! I ahve seen these put back with two o-rings and man what a mess all over the floor!!! Sadly the first time was when the mechanic started up my new engine!!! A little bit of panic for a few minutes since we had spent $5000 on the rebuild by then!!!(It was 2001)
@@akaitv6606 No, the Fairlane and LTD are based off the Falcon station wagon platform to get the extra rear leg room. They are Falcon burgers with more goodies.
I remember putting plugs in my old AU that had a narrow point electrode, probably iridiums... the ones you pulled out looked similar. That fuel filter has definitely been changed before by an ape that only has two shifters, at least he used a RYCO so consider your fuel filter to be the 3rd one. I bought my 1998 AU1 second hand in 2001 with 111,000 ks for not much, ex company car from somewhere but was in great shape. A kangaroo that was big enough to kick the shit out of Godzilla just hopped out in my way one afternoon whilst dawdling along at 120... er, 110 and managed to push everything in front of the motor to touching the motor. I miss that car. I kicked that fucking roo in the head even though it was dead. The memories....
When you change pug spark plug leads you drive the car up on ramps and get under the car there it will be revealed how much room underneath to fit those leads , same with coil packs i have watched youtube videos on people who change coil packs from top , and all they needed to do was read the workshop manual where it tells you to change coil packs from under these cars ! I used to service police AU falcons for FORD
I did consider that, but I also noticed taking the airbox out gave me lots more room to get my arms under there. I imagine on a hoist it'd be a lot easier going from underneath.
Make sure to check the front suspension. I've seen five Ford Territory's on the side of the road with front wheel hanging off due to suspension failure
@@stipsmindmatter6251 . I don't know how to spot the difference with them. I'm a Falcon owner. Definitely an issue with some though because I've seen five roadside with the front wheel hanging off
Sean, with the oil filter (depending on the angle it sits), you can fill up the oil filter part of the way before installing it. I had AU's as company cars & I was never happy with them as they had various issues. We used to call them the Awfully Ugly. The BA fixed most of the issues with the AU & by the time the BF came along more of the issues were addressed. The only issues we had with the Fords of the time were rust in the worst areas but by the time they came by, we replaced them. I've noticed with the fuels we get that there's always crap trapped in the fuel filter more now than ever before. Cos fuel filters are cheap, I recommend replacing them every 8-10 months. I also recommend that you replace the diff oil due to the unknown time it's been serviced. I'm sure you can do a video on that as it's very easy to do. Replacing the diff oil periodically makes a difference. Not many replace the diff oil as it's always in a forgotten spot. Again great video, simple & easy to follow for novices.
My AU is an absolute unit, it had coolant leak into the gearbox, but she still runs. My BF Mkii is an absolute lemon. Literally its third day at the mechanics. It is getting a complete service done, but its diff bushes were completely munted at 90k kms leaving damage to the rear end, it has had its centre driveshaft bearing die at 150k kms, at 130 it needed new shocks, it is getting them now, and the brake booster has failed in the last week. Not to mention the rust it has. Oh, have I mentioned the power steering pump is dying? It also crapped its steering rack at 25k kms. Edit: also on its third catalytic converter and second muffler. It has only done 160k kms.
@@jamesrichardson645 yep BF XR6 owner here, can attest to their shittiness. My EL with 160km drives better than the BF. Clunks and rattles and poor interior fitment it’s a chunk of shit. I’ve had a few B series falcons and they’re all the same. The AU is where they began their downfall in my opinion. Also I heard a rumour that Ford canned the zinc dipping process on the Falcon with the introduction of AU, that might explain their penchant for rust.
Great video Shaun, keep up the good work. For a car without a history, the AU looks very nice, somebody clearly loved that car when they had it. I wonder if Ford still have records of this car being serviced or even the original selling dealer record? Considering the parts and condition, I wouldn't be surprised if a Ford dealer has seen this car at some point in its life. Some dealers can access manufacturer service records, so if a dealer serviced the car, it is on record, although I am not sure how long these records remain for (I have done some ringing around for cars that have question marks on them such as dodgy mileage, deferred maintenance or missing stamps with some interesting results).
Z9 to hand tight! Good Bloke Sean! Makes it easy for the next time! (General Chit Chat) Did you sort your Auto Box yet? On my Series1 AU Futura, I used to swap the filter and ATF every 30,000 kays, as it was drummed into me really early on, that those BTR boxes and the fluid in 'em, didn't like to get too hot, and as soon as the fluid was scorched, there'd be problems... At the time, it was doing lots of lots of runs up and down the Stuart Highway, back when it was unrestricted... and fuel was cheap enough to spool along at 160km/h without thinking twice about it, so I assumed it was "gettin' hot"... And yeah, the fluid was always on that borderline of going from cherry red to light brown. Fresh oil & Filters, before the recommended intervals, the cheapest preventative maintenance ever!!! Good times,... Sean, you're a legend mate, for bringing back some good memories. I like to think that my AU is still ripping around the NT somewhere. Well, good memories, apart from the Aircon, the Series 1 Aircon was rubbish, and don't get me started on the saggy headliner... ;)
Fuel filter was previously changed as it's a Ryco. Pulling the fuel.pump fuse was pointless never seen that in any workshop just unbolt with a non adjustable spanner and do both sides at once it's a lot easier. Good to see it's an AU by the oil leak on the sump they all leaked.
I only pulled the relay because I thought it'd be a good way to relieve any residual pressure in the fuel line. Whether it's needed or not, it didn't add any extra time to the job. Also this isn't a workshop, I'm just a guy in my garage.
@@MotoringBoxTV all good, Fuel pump only puts pressure in system when you turn key to on as it primes the system. Newer cars with proximity keys prime when you press brake pedal.
For your transmission service buy 10 litres of fluid. Always remove filler plug on the right side of unit prior to loosening and dropping pan. Once you change internal filter easier with needle nose pliers and bolt up pan evenly pump fluid in until over flowing loosely install plug and start vehicle and go from drive to reverse 4 times or so then remove plug and pump oil until over flowing again. If second fill is not undertaken vehicle will go to third gear because of to low oil of approximately 3 litres. Hope that helps.
I always run a Diesel oil every third oil change (even on cars i have built with bigger power figures), and change the filter every 2500km whilst on the diesel oil. Never had any sludge build up or failures- including on the shitbox Holden Adventra V6 i owned for a while (Alloytec is well known as the Sludgetec)
That had some merit in the 1980's but now look at todays Penrite range & see how far oil tech has come & how many variations are available for every type of engine. Link to Penrite here: www.penriteoil.com.au/product-selector#/
Not sure if it's been mentioned or if you know, but series 1 AU has a different coil pack and leads to the series 2/3 AU. The new leads you had looked like series 1 leads. Hope this helps!
Just so that you know, the second figure of the oil weight, (in this example of 10W40 oil) would be the viscosity when cold and the first figure is the viscosity when at operating temps. So if you wanted a thicker oil for an older engine and they specified 10w30 from factory, you would go up to a 15w40 or even a 20w50
Great vid as usual, another good maintenance tip for KMs of the this car would be quick throttle body clean and gasket replace, you'd be amazed how much gunk builds up around throttle butterfly
It looked you took out platinum spark plugs. I recommend Bosch platinum iridium spark plugs, if you can find them. Supercheap Auto used to stock them but they don't anymore.
In a stock Intech I struggle to see the benefit of running expensive plugs, apart from maybe lasting a bit longer? I'd rather go cheaper and change them out more often to be honest.
@@MotoringBoxTV i noticed a difference in my NC2 Fairlane with a stock engine. The plugs have 4 platinum tips with a very thin iridium core. They're none adjustable.
The only reason it is recommended to oil the oil filter o ring is too make sure it is actually there and not missing. Also those expensive iridium plugs you pulled out looked only 10k used.
When you replaced the oil filter did you refill the new oil filter with fresh oil before replacing it, and the new spark plugs did you check the gap first, yes a lot of spark plugs are "pre set" , but it would be a good idea to check first !!
I checked a few of the plugs and they seemed okay. I don't bother pre-filling the filter. It's a good idea, I just don't think it really makes much difference in the end.
@@MotoringBoxTV There are two schools of thought with the pre filling of the oil filter. One being that the motor could starve itself of oil until the oil filter fills up with oil. This is what i was taught and the reason why i would have pre filled the oil filter. BUT the other reason is that if doing a oil change with a new filter is when starting the engine there is enough oil around the critical parts of the engine ( big end, little end, cam etc,etc ) and to just let the engine idle until the low oil pressure light goes out. Me well i have always at least tried to fill the oil filter first.
@@stephengorin3059 yup I understand the idea, I am just not really sure if it's worth worrying about or the extra time and potential mess. I reckon with the oil pressure most engines run it'd fill almost instantaneously. Still, it's a nice little bit of added insurance if you want to take the time 👍
You actually had clear fuel come out of your filter?? First ef I got was dying and I emptied out that filter and it was completely black like ink and had alot more than just a few little black dirt specs in there. That car was a freak engine after I changed that filter and fixed the vacuum leak
We have the same jack! When you do the BA, I use a small bit of wood cut off to put between the jack and the chassis rail, so that the jack doesn't dig in... spreads the load out a bit.
With the thicker oil on start up on cold days you may hear the lifters until the oil starts to circulate , when doing any work on fuel/break lines always use a pipe spanner if you don't have one you can cut a slot on a shitty old spare spanner
The cold rating (10W) is the same, but I guess since that's taken at 0c, there probably is a tiny difference between 10W30 & 10W40 at ambient temp when you start the engine. Stuffed if I can pick it though - the engine is running quieter and smoother than it ever has!
Never put a screwdriver into a oil filter seen that done they wernt able to unscrew the filter tore it up were able with a filter spanner on the lip where it goes against the block to undo it. If you dont have a filter spanner use a old mechanics trick use a leather belt on the filer to undo it . Also only hand tighten up the filter other wise you stuff the rubber ring
Number one problem the original plugs are in that are were a iridium and you just put normal ones in and to you're supposed to put oil in the oil filter first before you screw it on
Here you go! www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wheel-Arch-Moulds-to-suit-Ford-Falcon-AU-1999-2003-FENDERTRIM-/273491059510?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
Also people, oil filters only go on firm, but not tight. You shouldn't need a wrench to get it off in the first place ;) It's amazing how many people don't do basic servicing on their cars anymore. Although I've been making sure mny young boy is around when I do mine so it's something that isn't foreign to him when he gets older.
Kind of surprised to see you use “ Genuine” Motorctaft plugs & leads, but you use aftermarket filters. Having a real good quality oil, fuel and transmission filters are cheap forms of insurance for maximum longevity of the engine or transmission.
Greg Myatt so they probably come from the same Indonesian factory where the Sakura filters come from - I think the SCA filters might come from there too now?
I've had to do the screwdriver thing twice in my life, on two cars that had been to a particular mechanic. I've almost always been able to undo old oil filters by hand (no tool at all) that I've put on by hand, and never had any leaks.
If you really want to be thorough and do it properly and you need to drop the pan on the automatic change the automatic fluid with a flush with clean fluid and put in a Ryco filter kit Also I would check if the radiator core is shared with the automatic transmission cooler (as it is on the BA & BF) and with a car of that age you would be very well advised to go onto eBay spend 180 bucks for a fully welded aluminium radiator and just change it because what will happen is they corrode internally then coolant mixes with the transmission by the time you figure out what’s going on it’s too late and you need a new automatic...... On an AU A rebuilt automatic over the counter would be two grand easy
If I were you I would also bleed the brakes and switch to DOT 5.1 brake fluid - And if you’re using DOT 3 or 4 currently - DOT 5 is still miscible and you don’t have to bleed the thing completely.... If you want to double check that there is compatibility charts on Google
I hate how easily you got the oil filter and fuel filter off. I had to do ungodly things to the oil filter and my fuel filter nuts rounded themselves off *sigh*
When you use the screwdriver method, make sure you use a very very long screwdriver, because if it’s too short I find that it will rip the top off the filter instead as there’s not even force being distributed around the filter, I’m probably reading too deep into it but I just find that it works the best and I haven’t had one rip off since using a long as shit screwdriver
I don't know what the tool's called exactly... I just call it a 'filter cup' that fits over the end of the oil filter - it has a 1/2" driver socket which is great for a cheap breaker bar - it's a bit extreme to be talking about breaker bars for oil filters, but I find that works a treat without getting all stabby stabby.
@@MattExzy The cups are very good. The only thing I’ve found is different brand filters have different ends so it works to the specific filter head you buy it for, like 24 teeth
Awesome. The engine was smooth before but now it's like butter. I reckon you could do that old trick where you stand a coin on its edge on top of the motor. It's that smooth.
It's good to see him accually do up an AU falcon, cause reality is, their a bloody good car
I like hated them but then I got a pov pack mint condition au with under 192000km and I love it. Love working on it too.
Mechanically they're really good, personally it's just the interior and exterior's aesthetics that makes it hard to love.
I'm certain Shaun is the leader of the Mexican hoon cartel with that weapon au
They are both in Queensland so maybe?
Not gonna lie, it would be fun to go on a ride-along with them.
MotoringBox You’ll send that Fairmont to an early death if you do that... just buy a old ex-taxi for tyre frying fun...
i done the same in mine for nearly 6 years of actual abuse because i hated it.......but after all that abuse for so long without missing a beat I came to respect them for their toughness.....that eventually grew and evolved into the love/obsession I have for them today!
Best Car Ever Built in Aus!
I have the same respect for my Getz believe it or not, I drive it like my XR6 and it just keeps going and going...its on 350 thousand km, the oil is as black as night, I only use water in the radiator and I have never ever even looked at the plugs..the only drama I have ever had has been flat tyres, or seperated tread on tyres...I hate it, but I kinda love it now since the XR6 has the milkshake thing going on atm lol
Nah, the Mitz 380 was by far the best made here.
Nice 👍 imagine how she will run now. This is why the AU’s are such a valuable car, not to everyone else... but to their owners. They are survivors with legendary reliability.
You forgot the part where you fumble undoing the sump plug and drop it into the old oil.
I actually used to just drop it in on purpose. It's easy to fish it out as you tip the used oil into a container. So either way I guess!
I’ve done that with an AU falcon before,😐
I lost it and spat my coffee after seeing what you did to that poor filter! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Truth be told, that poor filter loved every single second...
@@darrylkelly7958 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
For all the oil experts lurking in my comments: The full-synthetic 10W-40 is what Nulon lists on their website (& Supercheap's) specifically for the AU S2. Feel free to use whatever oil you like in your car though. I've also seen a few people suggesting the "10" in "10W40" is the HOT rating, and the "40" is cold - which according to the oil companies themselves is absolutely false. Have a read: www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/oil-types-weights-and-viscosity-faq
I just couldn't stop looking at the engine bay ..... soooooooo clean. 5 star rating!
I’d love this over an American Taurus!
They are a disposable appliance compared to this uniquely evolved vehicle in the Ford world.
The Taurus was sold in Australia too, for a limited time. Slightly different front end, with headlights from the Mercury Sable
@@GobotWars yeah, I like the ghia.
Virtually disappeared now, though saw a straggler here in Australia last year in good nick. They had the more sophisticated Duratec V6. No Vulcan V6s were sold here.
Be careful following cougars. They get the creeped out too.
IMHO there's something really satisfying and therapeutic about tinkering, servicing and getting you car running sweetly.
The leads were from an AU l. The ll and lll had a different coil with different connectors. Fallen for the same thing myself. Luckily at the time I had a l and a lll so I could still use them when I was given my AUlll SR it hadn’t had an oil change or filters s for 6 years.
Looks like we're getting an S1 boys!
@@MotoringBoxTV we all know it has to be an XR8 :)
@@MotoringBoxTV i have an unserviced S1 in Brisbane, want to help a fellow au owner? :)
@@DeckoTD I'll help! Easy thing to work on really. And cheap.
Thanks for showing these tasks - I've never done a fuel filter and will now give it a go.
My two bob's worth when you get an AUII - change the engine oil and filter on day one. If the filter is difficult to unscrew, that tells you that the oil has been in there for a long time and has degraded. Test coolant condition (Ford spare parts guys will give you a couple of test strips), test brake fluid (meter $15 on ebay).
Clean plug leads to avoid tracking, but I wouldn't worry about changing them unless there is a misfire and determined that it's not plugs or coil. If your car is on lpg, then spark plugs need to be in top condition (Ford AGS23C08). Telltale for tired plugs is momentary hesitation under uphill load at freeway speed.
Diff oil has probably never been changed and is easy to do. Changing trans oil (Castrol TQ95) and filter is a good move, especially if the car has a towbar. Power steering oil (Nulon SYN75W85) is often overlooked. Change if it smells like burnt caramel. I just suck it out of the reservoir and replace without undoing anything, then drive a bit, turning steering wheel lock to lock, then replace oil again. Probably gets about 80% fresh oil that way. Cheers
Love my AU, thanks for the servicing advice. I've had my mechanic replace oil, oil filter, air filter.
But now you have me thinking about when the fuel filter, spark plugs and spark leads were last replaced.
Leave it with me, I'm on it...
I learnt something about spark plugs! So the copper replacement plugs won't last 80k, but the motor is certainly running beautifully with them.
Also, when I bought the old AU I didn't really care about it, which is why I didn't do all of this earlier. Still no excuse to have left it this long, but sometimes time gets away from us. So if your car is overdue for a bit of lovin', go out and give it some today ❤
It's an AU - you could probably have left it another 10 years with no ill effects ;)
I have an FG mk2. Platinum tipped plugs supposed to be good for 150k km. Recently put 3rd set in, and new coils. Coil on plugs on the Barra.
AUs thrive on lack of servicing lol
The main reason vehicles use platinum or iridium tip plugs is due to lean burn in the cylinders. Lasting longer is just a beneficial side effect.
Using copper tip plugs in these engines will only last 20K km before they start to break down, not the 40K older cars used to get.
Being an AU, you probably just drained out the running in oil😂
180 Kms Just run in for a AU Falcon 🤣🤣🤣😜 Good work👌
Yeah my AUIII about to go over the 300,000. No leaks or strange noises.
How does Shaun find them?!?
Just imagine how beautiful it is after the service. He now has a Ford to suit his moods.
Hi Shaun, love your channel.I know not many worry about it but on these older cars when you buy them[I have an AU] is check and replace the rubber exhaust hangers, give all the door and boot rubber seals a good clean and treat them with a good detail spray or rubber rejuvenator, put new wipers on, top up windshield washer fluid and a few other things.Once done you dont have to worry down the track about having to do one thing here one thing there , these minor details are not difficult and are worth while IMO.
Yup all good things to do. I kind of do these anyway, so perhaps the next car I get I'll film it.,
Hey Shaun, heads up bro... trick of the trade. Throttle body cleaner. Remove air induction pipes, spray in throttle body until clean. Start engine and rev, blow all the crap out! Better throttle response, starts, fuel usage etc. Keep up the good vids mate.
Glad to see you changed the fuel filter ...most forgot filter maybe..:}
First one I've ever changed to be honest. I've always avoided it because I thought fuel from the tank would just keep pouring out and it seemed dangerous. Actually it ended up being one of the simplest things!
It's good practice to use an engine oil flush additive to the old oil before draining following the directions of the product used this helps remove any gunk build up & stops contamination of the new oil i also personally jack up the opposite side of car to the drain plug this helps with removing any excess oil left on the bottom of the sump as I'm not in a rush it sits like this for 30 minutes also make sure your engine oil is warm before starting oil change as this helps with drainage
On my fairmont ghia auiii 5l 2002 after clocking up 95000km it suddenly started bunny hopping. It never occurred to me that it was the fuel filter and luckily I was able to get home after resting for a while on the roadside. In the end I couldn't even move it out of the garage. Its had a regular 10,000km service by my local ford dealer up to then but low and behold when I removed the fuel filter and cut it open, it was completely gummed up. It was the original factory filter that had never been replaced. When I remonstrated with the garage about this, they said they only change fuel filters on request.
I did the fuel filter in my bf a couple weeks back. The one pulled from the au wasnt the original. The one in my bf was as ive had that car since near new and do all the maintenance myself. The brown fuel with a few bits of debris was nothing compared to the thick sludge that came out of my 195k old original filter. It resembled chocolate sauce.
Must of had some love somewhere, Motorcraft oil filter probably from a Ford Dealer service and the plugs were Denso iridium jobbies.
Another trick I have found to remove oil filters is to wrap sandpaper around it & try and remove it by hand. The sandpaper gives you amazing grip.
The other day on a forum I read a suggestion about using a length of duct tape to partially wrap around it, and then pulling the end of the tape to assist in getting it moving. Thought it was a great idea!
Hadn’t heard of that but makes sense.
That oil looks like the same colour as what came out of my BA when i bought it. Just like a falcon to have the most disgusting oil running through it and still power on like a champion
Another MotoringBox upload means another day for dad and I go pull out the Falcons and do some work to em!
Sounds like an awesome day guys 👍
@@MotoringBoxTV sure is, thanks Sean!
Reminds of those Electric Blue videos that were cruelly edited at the best possible beginning and best possible ending !! Thanks for the laugh !
Cheers for the video I just changed my fuel filter and used this video heaps for reference
The good old AU! Don’t worry, my EB II came with a manual, an RACV brochure, some 80s road maps and a handful of plastic forks.... oh yeah, and ants! No service history. It’s just an old Falcon thing!
I have a au 7 seater v8 Fairmont wagon and I love it to bits
Just copped your latest vid on your awesome AU... Wow how clean is that engine bay !!! Like you I like my engine area clean. Pretty much do the same as what you covered in cleaning the AU engine vid. Love ya work. I'm currently trolling the used ads as I'm after a clean AU or BA. Just can't make my mind up.... Lol.
Very little in common. Never buy first model of a new release. Due to this, AU 2 & 3 are now dearer than BA1 & 2 comparative models, except manual XR8.
I find it’s also a good little tip to pour a splash of oil into the new filter before installing it as well, even though that one, might feel even more violated 😂
Nice clean AU engine bay, looks good
You just replaced long life iridium tip plugs for standard copper plugs by the look of it.
Au-On run Iridium from factory.
These are a pleasure to change the oil on compared to my Laser and V8 Fairlane.
The filter is so accessible as well as the sump plug. Ford made these with ease of maintenance in mind.
It sounds like you have a crook pulley bearing mate.
Definitely - it was a lot easier than fishing the filter out of my NC.
@@MotoringBoxTV It came as a real eye opener when I changed oil and filter on someone's AUII Ute for the first time. It was a holiday over all other cars I've done (CL Valiant, VS Commodore V6, KE Laser and the Fairlane V8).
That was a great video, I just purchased a 2002 one, will do all that. Thank you for the video.
6:07, love a bitta kink. When I saw your title I thought your AU was gunna be sporting some fishnets or something ;) Great video again!
So i did some internet digging, that fuel filter has been replaced at some stage as AUs are meant to come with Motor craft instead of Ryco, however its been quite a while as Ryco has not used that logo for their automotive filters for quite a while, im guessing that fuel filter was last done before 2014
Yeah I looked into it too when I noticed the Ryco logo during editing. Looks really old school, so I am guessing it was at least 10 years ago!
I use Motorcraft ones myself because I did a service on a friend's AU and he bought a cheap aftermarket service kit.
The fuel filter nut hadn't been fully threaded and it leaked heaps of fuel.
I couldn't understand why it just wouldn't seal and he didn't believe that it wasn't my fault until I bought a Motorcraft one with my own money and fitted it successfully.
He then reimbursed me for it and when I inspected the cheap one carefully I could see the thread didn't go all the way into the nut
I have an AU 1 1998 with the VCT motor and only use 5w30 Valvoline as recommended......No oil burns between services and it seems to be a very low oil burning engine.....I need to change the leads and Coil Pack soon together with the fuel filter.....Coil packs are needed every 100,000 km or so....
Hot tip, take off the oil filter with a plastic bag to avoid spillage
Noice 👍
Buy a Z9 oil filter cup tool if you're having trouble with a strap wrench. They are great for tight spots. New Toyota's require them for there cartridge filters.
I've got a strap wrench and I threw it in the bin haha. Filter cup wrench is worth every penny as is a set of ramps. No more jacking off for me.
I always check that the filter you take off has its o ring still on it! I ahve seen these put back with two o-rings and man what a mess all over the floor!!! Sadly the first time was when the mechanic started up my new engine!!! A little bit of panic for a few minutes since we had spent $5000 on the rebuild by then!!!(It was 2001)
ya probably goingto do it,but a diff oil change is a good idea as well.Did my 07 bf2 ghia at 90k and definitly needed it.
I thought that the dirty little secret was that the AU was actually a VT Commodore under the skin.
Wash your mouth out.
W⚓alert
Haha I’m with Ford and holden
Very satisfying service there dude!
That is the cleanest AU engine bay in AU
Thanks mate. Check out this video if you want to know how I cleaned it. Super easy! th-cam.com/video/1QUrooNsRRY/w-d-xo.html
Love it great video man
I use to not put oil in my oil filter but now do before putting back on
That engine is only just run in at 180,000 kms . Did you set the plug gap ? .
That was my first thought :)
@pete smyth My father would scalp me if i didnt check the gap. He's an old school mechanic - not a "technician" as termed today.
1:12 - For some reasons this car seems like your Ford Crown Victoria in terms of how tough it is
Yes essentially. This model is the best when it comes to getting so many things right.
Except it's an inline six cylinder instead of a V8 and unibody
@@akaitv6606 No, the Fairlane and LTD are based off the Falcon station wagon platform to get the extra rear leg room. They are Falcon burgers with more goodies.
The fuel filter had definitely been changed because they didn't fit Ryco ones in the factory.
That fuel was fucking awful.
Brilliant video once again man. Perfect.
I remember putting plugs in my old AU that had a narrow point electrode, probably iridiums... the ones you pulled out looked similar. That fuel filter has definitely been changed before by an ape that only has two shifters, at least he used a RYCO so consider your fuel filter to be the 3rd one. I bought my 1998 AU1 second hand in 2001 with 111,000 ks for not much, ex company car from somewhere but was in great shape. A kangaroo that was big enough to kick the shit out of Godzilla just hopped out in my way one afternoon whilst dawdling along at 120... er, 110 and managed to push everything in front of the motor to touching the motor. I miss that car. I kicked that fucking roo in the head even though it was dead. The memories....
When you change pug spark plug leads you drive the car up on ramps and get under the car there it will be revealed how much room underneath to fit those leads , same with coil packs i have watched youtube videos on people who change coil packs from top , and all they needed to do was read the workshop manual where it tells you to change coil packs from under these cars ! I used to service police AU falcons for FORD
I did consider that, but I also noticed taking the airbox out gave me lots more room to get my arms under there. I imagine on a hoist it'd be a lot easier going from underneath.
such a satisfying video. keep it up!
Love the content! Just bought an sz territory with the Barra. Learning lots of tips and look forward to servicing the motor!
Make sure to check the front suspension.
I've seen five Ford Territory's on the side of the road with front wheel hanging off due to suspension failure
@@NewstartGarageOZ The front suspension issues were more related to the SY territory no? Nonetheless doesn’t hurt to get it looked at.
@@stipsmindmatter6251 . I don't know how to spot the difference with them.
I'm a Falcon owner.
Definitely an issue with some though because I've seen five roadside with the front wheel hanging off
Sean, with the oil filter (depending on the angle it sits), you can fill up the oil filter part of the way before installing it.
I had AU's as company cars & I was never happy with them as they had various issues. We used to call them the Awfully Ugly. The BA fixed most of the issues with the AU & by the time the BF came along more of the issues were addressed. The only issues we had with the Fords of the time were rust in the worst areas but by the time they came by, we replaced them.
I've noticed with the fuels we get that there's always crap trapped in the fuel filter more now than ever before. Cos fuel filters are cheap, I recommend replacing them every 8-10 months.
I also recommend that you replace the diff oil due to the unknown time it's been serviced. I'm sure you can do a video on that as it's very easy to do. Replacing the diff oil periodically makes a difference. Not many replace the diff oil as it's always in a forgotten spot.
Again great video, simple & easy to follow for novices.
My AU is an absolute unit, it had coolant leak into the gearbox, but she still runs. My BF Mkii is an absolute lemon. Literally its third day at the mechanics. It is getting a complete service done, but its diff bushes were completely munted at 90k kms leaving damage to the rear end, it has had its centre driveshaft bearing die at 150k kms, at 130 it needed new shocks, it is getting them now, and the brake booster has failed in the last week. Not to mention the rust it has. Oh, have I mentioned the power steering pump is dying? It also crapped its steering rack at 25k kms.
Edit: also on its third catalytic converter and second muffler. It has only done 160k kms.
@@jamesrichardson645 yep BF XR6 owner here, can attest to their shittiness. My EL with 160km drives better than the BF. Clunks and rattles and poor interior fitment it’s a chunk of shit. I’ve had a few B series falcons and they’re all the same. The AU is where they began their downfall in my opinion.
Also I heard a rumour that Ford canned the zinc dipping process on the Falcon with the introduction of AU, that might explain their penchant for rust.
They was spark plug leads for the falcon with a dizzy cap ea el etc
Here's an interesting fact you might not know au Falcon under the intake manifold has a plug where you can put a dizzy piss off the coil pack
They were Series 1 leads, coilpack is different
😂😂😂 link to the deleted filter scene? Was just getting into it 😂
Great video Shaun, keep up the good work. For a car without a history, the AU looks very nice, somebody clearly loved that car when they had it. I wonder if Ford still have records of this car being serviced or even the original selling dealer record? Considering the parts and condition, I wouldn't be surprised if a Ford dealer has seen this car at some point in its life. Some dealers can access manufacturer service records, so if a dealer serviced the car, it is on record, although I am not sure how long these records remain for (I have done some ringing around for cars that have question marks on them such as dodgy mileage, deferred maintenance or missing stamps with some interesting results).
Z9 to hand tight! Good Bloke Sean! Makes it easy for the next time!
(General Chit Chat) Did you sort your Auto Box yet? On my Series1 AU Futura, I used to swap the filter and ATF every 30,000 kays, as it was drummed into me really early on, that those BTR boxes and the fluid in 'em, didn't like to get too hot, and as soon as the fluid was scorched, there'd be problems...
At the time, it was doing lots of lots of runs up and down the Stuart Highway, back when it was unrestricted... and fuel was cheap enough to spool along at 160km/h without thinking twice about it, so I assumed it was "gettin' hot"... And yeah, the fluid was always on that borderline of going from cherry red to light brown.
Fresh oil & Filters, before the recommended intervals, the cheapest preventative maintenance ever!!!
Good times,... Sean, you're a legend mate, for bringing back some good memories.
I like to think that my AU is still ripping around the NT somewhere.
Well, good memories, apart from the Aircon, the Series 1 Aircon was rubbish, and don't get me started on the saggy headliner... ;)
Fuel filter was previously changed as it's a Ryco. Pulling the fuel.pump fuse was pointless never seen that in any workshop just unbolt with a non adjustable spanner and do both sides at once it's a lot easier. Good to see it's an AU by the oil leak on the sump they all leaked.
I only pulled the relay because I thought it'd be a good way to relieve any residual pressure in the fuel line. Whether it's needed or not, it didn't add any extra time to the job. Also this isn't a workshop, I'm just a guy in my garage.
@@MotoringBoxTV all good, Fuel pump only puts pressure in system when you turn key to on as it primes the system. Newer cars with proximity keys prime when you press brake pedal.
For your transmission service buy 10 litres of fluid. Always remove filler plug on the right side of unit prior to loosening and dropping pan. Once you change internal filter easier with needle nose pliers and bolt up pan evenly pump fluid in until over flowing loosely install plug and start vehicle and go from drive to reverse 4 times or so then remove plug and pump oil until over flowing again. If second fill is not undertaken vehicle will go to third gear because of to low oil of approximately 3 litres. Hope that helps.
Does the au have a tickford build plate under the bonnet on the lhs?
If possible always fill the oil filter up half way or more,it stops the engine running dry for a few seconds on the first initial start up.
I always run a Diesel oil every third oil change (even on cars i have built with bigger power figures), and change the filter every 2500km whilst on the diesel oil.
Never had any sludge build up or failures- including on the shitbox Holden Adventra V6 i owned for a while (Alloytec is well known as the Sludgetec)
Get the Alloytech away from me.
That had some merit in the 1980's but now look at todays Penrite range & see how far oil tech has come & how many variations are available for every type of engine. Link to Penrite here:
www.penriteoil.com.au/product-selector#/
Not sure if it's been mentioned or if you know, but series 1 AU has a different coil pack and leads to the series 2/3 AU. The new leads you had looked like series 1 leads. Hope this helps!
Sounds like that's the case. I was joking about now I'll have to buy an S1.
@@MotoringBoxTV nothing wrong with two AU's 😂
Just so that you know, the second figure of the oil weight, (in this example of 10W40 oil) would be the viscosity when cold and the first figure is the viscosity when at operating temps. So if you wanted a thicker oil for an older engine and they specified 10w30 from factory, you would go up to a 15w40 or even a 20w50
You're wrong - first figure is cold, second is hot.
Does the fuel tank need to be empty for the fuel filter change.
Nope!
Quick tip for ya those leads you had were series 1 style series 2 & 3 and different
Great vid as usual, another good maintenance tip for KMs of the this car would be quick throttle body clean and gasket replace, you'd be amazed how much gunk builds up around throttle butterfly
False
It looked you took out platinum spark plugs. I recommend Bosch platinum iridium spark plugs, if you can find them. Supercheap Auto used to stock them but they don't anymore.
In a stock Intech I struggle to see the benefit of running expensive plugs, apart from maybe lasting a bit longer? I'd rather go cheaper and change them out more often to be honest.
@@MotoringBoxTV i noticed a difference in my NC2 Fairlane with a stock engine. The plugs have 4 platinum tips with a very thin iridium core. They're none adjustable.
@@MotoringBoxTV you can buy genuine ford motorcraft platinum plugs 6 for $45
AU series 1 & 2 use different leads, it looked like you had series 1 leads dont worry i found out the hard way aswel lol
Hey mate you will need to get oridium plugs as the new ones are not ideal for the tickford 6
The only reason it is recommended to oil the oil filter o ring is too make sure it is actually there and not missing. Also those expensive iridium plugs you pulled out looked only 10k used.
Looked 10k perhaps. I've driven the car at least 20k since I've owned it and never pulled the plugs.
When you replaced the oil filter did you refill the new oil filter with fresh oil before replacing it, and the new spark plugs did you check the gap first, yes a lot of spark plugs are "pre set" , but it would be a good idea to check first !!
I checked a few of the plugs and they seemed okay. I don't bother pre-filling the filter. It's a good idea, I just don't think it really makes much difference in the end.
@@MotoringBoxTV There are two schools of thought with the pre filling of the oil filter. One being that the motor could starve itself of oil until the oil filter fills up with oil. This is what i was taught and the reason why i would have pre filled the oil filter.
BUT the other reason is that if doing a oil change with a new filter is when starting the engine there is enough oil around the critical parts of the engine ( big end, little end, cam etc,etc ) and to just let the engine idle until the low oil pressure light goes out. Me well i have always at least tried to fill the oil filter first.
@@stephengorin3059 yup I understand the idea, I am just not really sure if it's worth worrying about or the extra time and potential mess. I reckon with the oil pressure most engines run it'd fill almost instantaneously. Still, it's a nice little bit of added insurance if you want to take the time 👍
well changing that fuel filter looked real easy, I don't think anyone has ever done it at My car (KmarT) mines rusty.
I always pour oil into the filter to fill the paper so that the motor is running for the least time possible without any oil flowing
To me it's not worth the mess and the hassle. It'll fill up bloody quickly by itself.
You actually had clear fuel come out of your filter??
First ef I got was dying and I emptied out that filter and it was completely black like ink and had alot more than just a few little black dirt specs in there. That car was a freak engine after I changed that filter and fixed the vacuum leak
Sounds horrendous. Bet it ran amazing after all that.
We have the same jack! When you do the BA, I use a small bit of wood cut off to put between the jack and the chassis rail, so that the jack doesn't dig in... spreads the load out a bit.
I wonder if its ever been changed at all then turns filter over to see ryco
you should do a video on how to replace the coil pack
That is a diabolical job. They couldn't have made it more difficult and awkward if they tried.
Not wrong, I wouldn't be able to film it either because you wouldn't see shit! Haha
Now I want to go and do the same to my EF. My plugs are way worse than that! It should double the value of the car....
Looks like the old plugs were platinum plugs rated for 100,000klm, but the new plugs you showed are a standard copper core that last 10,000klm.
If so I can change them once a year with the oil, I don't really care.
Yes for sure, just commenting on what you said, that they last 80,000klm!
@@stevejohnstone5163 yup my bad, I've learnt something too!
People often forget to change fuel filter or dont care. Bad idea at least.
Very enjoyable video.
With the thicker oil on start up on cold days you may hear the lifters until the oil starts to circulate , when doing any work on fuel/break lines always use a pipe spanner if you don't have one you can cut a slot on a shitty old spare spanner
The cold rating (10W) is the same, but I guess since that's taken at 0c, there probably is a tiny difference between 10W30 & 10W40 at ambient temp when you start the engine. Stuffed if I can pick it though - the engine is running quieter and smoother than it ever has!
Never put a screwdriver into a oil filter seen that done they wernt able to unscrew the filter tore it up were able with a filter spanner on the lip where it goes against the block to undo it. If you dont have a filter spanner use a old mechanics trick use a leather belt on the filer to undo it . Also only hand tighten up the filter other wise you stuff the rubber ring
Number one problem the original plugs are in that are were a iridium and you just put normal ones in and to you're supposed to put oil in the oil filter first before you screw it on
Hi do you or any know were i can buy the weel arch moulding that on that AU
Here you go! www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wheel-Arch-Moulds-to-suit-Ford-Falcon-AU-1999-2003-FENDERTRIM-/273491059510?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
Did this model have a cabin filter? If it does they are usually very dirty since most people forget about them!
No filter, you have to take it raw leaves n all.
Don't forget that auto heat exchanger that goes nasty
Also people, oil filters only go on firm, but not tight. You shouldn't need a wrench to get it off in the first place ;) It's amazing how many people don't do basic servicing on their cars anymore. Although I've been making sure mny young boy is around when I do mine so it's something that isn't foreign to him when he gets older.
Also, did you do plugs on the AU so you didn't have to bugger around with #6 cylinder on the Barra?? :P :')
Already done the ones in the BA!
Makes me want to replace my fuel filter.
Kind of surprised to see you use “ Genuine” Motorctaft plugs & leads, but you use aftermarket filters. Having a real good quality oil, fuel and transmission filters are cheap forms of insurance for maximum longevity of the engine or transmission.
When Ryco was Australian made, the same factory also made all the Ford falcon related motorcraft filters. Ryco are still a top grade A+ quality brand.
Greg Myatt so they probably come from the same Indonesian factory where the Sakura filters come from - I think the SCA filters might come from there too now?
@@paulsz6194 Not sure any more, I only know that ryco made all the motorcraft filters up until about 5 years ago.
I did the oil and filter change today. My mechanic tightened the bastard really well 😅. Needed 1 hour of grunting to remove it.
I've always tightened mine by hand only, never had any leaks. Apparently the official word is to hand tighten, and then give it another half a turn.
I've had to do the screwdriver thing twice in my life, on two cars that had been to a particular mechanic. I've almost always been able to undo old oil filters by hand (no tool at all) that I've put on by hand, and never had any leaks.
If you really want to be thorough and do it properly and you need to drop the pan on the automatic change the automatic fluid with a flush with clean fluid and put in a Ryco filter kit
Also I would check if the radiator core is shared with the automatic transmission cooler (as it is on the BA & BF) and with a car of that age you would be very well advised to go onto eBay spend 180 bucks for a fully welded aluminium radiator and just change it because what will happen is they corrode internally then coolant mixes with the transmission
by the time you figure out what’s going on it’s too late and you need a new automatic......
On an AU A rebuilt automatic over the counter would be two grand easy
If I were you I would also bleed the brakes and switch to DOT 5.1 brake fluid - And if you’re using DOT 3 or 4 currently - DOT 5 is still miscible and you don’t have to bleed the thing completely....
If you want to double check that there is compatibility charts on Google
didn't spring the cash for replacement iridium plugs lol
I hate how easily you got the oil filter and fuel filter off. I had to do ungodly things to the oil filter and my fuel filter nuts rounded themselves off *sigh*
When you use the screwdriver method, make sure you use a very very long screwdriver, because if it’s too short I find that it will rip the top off the filter instead as there’s not even force being distributed around the filter, I’m probably reading too deep into it but I just find that it works the best and I haven’t had one rip off since using a long as shit screwdriver
I don't know what the tool's called exactly... I just call it a 'filter cup' that fits over the end of the oil filter - it has a 1/2" driver socket which is great for a cheap breaker bar - it's a bit extreme to be talking about breaker bars for oil filters, but I find that works a treat without getting all stabby stabby.
@@MattExzy The cups are very good. The only thing I’ve found is different brand filters have different ends so it works to the specific filter head you buy it for, like 24 teeth
Excellent, how does she feel now?
Awesome. The engine was smooth before but now it's like butter. I reckon you could do that old trick where you stand a coin on its edge on top of the motor. It's that smooth.
@@MotoringBoxTV mmm butter
Gotta love ppl who slap new plugs in but never bother to gap them an expect it to be spot on oh well i got a good laugh out of this
Club AU members use all those parts as diagnosis ;)