That metal peice is where the trolling motor is at so they might have had a trolling motor with a stand on it like the lawerance ghost to keep a mark from getting in the carpet
You should only need to replace maybe 12" square around the drain and not the entire floor if the rest is solid as it looked in the last video. As far as removing the seat pole try spraying some Kroil all around the base where it is going in it and after it soaks for a hour you should be able to spin it freely and then be able to work it up and out. Kroil is just about the best penetrating oil that you can buy plus it makes for a great gun cleaner and reel cleaning oil...
I work for Bass Cat. Call and ask to talk to Richard Mattey. He'll tell you anything you need to know. Btw, try acetone on the carpet glue. Oh, and the blotches in the boxes is black gelcoat "spackle", it's there to break up all the white. Just like you'd see in a camper shell on a pickup. I can answer a few questions, but Richard is the guru.
For those rivets. You could’ve drilled them out. That’s just how you remove those pop rivets. Also: the river works but someone drilling the hole first to a specified diameter, then putting the rivet with the right grip length in the hole. The the rivet gun pulls the stem through which crunches the backside and holds whatever your riveting down in place.
Cut around the outer edge all the way around but leave about 2 1/2 to 3 inches of the existing floor all the way around. Then inspect your stringers and any other damage you might have. Reinforce that 2 1/2 to 3 inch border and drop a perfect cut out of some 5/8 marine grade plywood on there. After you wrap it in carpet.or whatever flooring you're using. Use some cardboard for a template etc. It's a much easier cheaper and makes it insanely easy to run wires or work on anything down there.
Rotten floors most likely means a weak transom being that the stringers usually tie into the transom. A simple test would be to put your entire body weight on the lower unit of the outboard (basically stand on it) and if the transom flexes even the slightest you’ll need to replace that also. This might cost far more than the boat is even worth
100% agree back in February I tried contacting the guy who had it for sale never replied saw few comments left saying boat was really only worth the motor and trailer glad I saved 3hr trip found 85 glassport only needing new carpet.
Cant believe I had to scroll down this far to find someone talk about the transom! I wish him the best but he has no idea what all it will take to do it right
@@antrigen1480 right?? I really hope more people are aware of this and aren’t driving boats with a weak transom! They’ll learn the hard way that boats don’t float when you tear the motor off
According to Rick Pierce the reason they went to the custom made square drive screws is tgat it eleminated problems with stripping out the screw heads as much as being able to tighten them down better.
@@jamesdancey5525 the square head is actually called a robertson, #2 is most common. its used for almost everything here in canada be it machine screws, wood screws , self tapers etc etc. you can thank Henry ford and mr. robertson for it not being popular in the US, ford found it was a great fastener for model T's but they couldn't come to an agreement, about what I don't remember, so ford ended up using the phillips. I'm glad we use the robertson up here, they are great for bigger wood screws especially now with impact drivers being so common, they don't slip and with a fresh bit the screws don't fall off the bit unless you point the driver down.
To learn more about bass cat and how they build their boats and trailers look up the factory tour series, it has some good information from Rick Pierce and another person who sat down with Rick and talked to him about Bass Cat is Ken Smith Fishing. Bass Cat has always gone above and beyond in their builds. That why there are so many of the older ones still around. They are built well.
That seat pole is probably threaded on so use a pipe wrench and penetrating oil and maybe a pipe extension on the pipe wrench. It should work it’s way free. Good luck and only replace what part of the floor you need to!
In the past I have found that only the wood between the stringers is rotten. I would only make small cuts around the drain and remove what is bad, glass in new wood under the floor, then glass in a replacement piece of floor. The pedestal extension will need lots of spray lube and some heat, but it might only unscrew clockwise due to a welded on nut at the bottom . Good luck
I would cut a bigger area out. You have to find the good wood, or replace it. If it was me, I'd take it all out, reinstall after new stringers and glass matting then floor the boat and reglass. Get rid of the cancer which would be all rotten wood. Opening up a bigger area let's you work easier as well as more access. Any questions hit me back and be willing to answer. And only use marine grade plywood, do not use anything pressure treated. Marine grade plywood. Get some Matt cloth, resin(5gal) finer cloth, and 220 is a finish sand grit, been better off with 100.
@@TightlineTV That was what totaled my Charger 195vf. Ended up with two 4' long cracks in the hull. The drain plug on a 195vf is tough to get to with the stepped transom and I bet a lazy previous owner just didn't pull the plug for years. Can't get all the water out with the bilge pump alone and being a Missouri boat the water left in there could have easily froze and expanded cracking the glass around the stringers.
I agree, cut a 12" x 12" square around that drain, and fix the wood and replace it there. You might get lucky and that will be all the damage done. If the area around it is stable, then your good. The seat post likely is rusted tight. Yea, you can get that off eventually. Replace all carpeting and seats. Do not just scrimp on things.. Buy all new latches and hinges, and lid shocks. If this was my boat, I would immaculately restore this boat. That GT Motor is a strong machine, and a fast motor. I would get a fury prop like 23p 3-blade... to start. Onward! One more thing, check out the new bass cat seats and middle seat. You can buy a complete seat sections slightly used far cheaper.. Newer versions are more comfortable and you would be happier than the old bench style you have now.
MEK would have taking that glue right off. I did a restoration of my 1994 Astro which took me 1 1/2 years. I had to replace all the stringers, transom, floor and flotation. Cool video. I know the frustration and the amount of work it takes to due a job a restoration.
That is a labor of love there my friend. You can find some good things on Facebook but they do require a bit of work sometimes. Having the right tools definitely help too.
I would def put in the work to rip the floor out. even if you dont fiberglass a new one in u could put a wooden subfloor in that will hold really well. If you want it to last def take it out.
I just did this to my 2000 coral. Now I have to set the motor height with the Jack plate and its ready to. Can’t wait to see the tbn stuff on it. I’m wanting to build a tackle bin in waisted space between the windshield and bow
Not gonna lie this series is making me want to buy an older bass boat and get to work! I’ve got a cool jon boat project I’m doing right now but I’ve always wanted a bass boat.
I currently know your pain buddy. I have a 97 skeeter zx185 that I’m redoing. I got it off Facebook market place for 1800 bucks. The work is so worth it. I’ll have way less in it when I’m done redoing it that what the boat is worth or I could resale it for. So just keep grinding and when it’s done that feeling is awesome. Looking forward to many more videos following your build
That metal tab at front of boat looks like a pad for a trolling motor support rod. Not entirely sure, but that's what it looks like and where it is located that is about all I can think of. Good luck on your adventure!
The post, liquid wrench. . The floor . . Take floor out . . Fill back with expand a foam . . Fiber glass or sheet of aluminum . . . I've done 3 of what your are doing now . . 👍 It will be worth it when you are done . . .
I just did a whole boat restoration and ran into some softness in the floor. What I did (which may not be the best but it was the cheapest/easiest) is just cut a square around the rotten part and put a new piece of treated plywood and fiberglass over top. It’s working good so far
@@TightlineTV I think it’ll last a while another suggestion I would have because I wish I would’ve done it, Is reinforce the lids if they have any give at all
For the stuck seat pole, I put a pipe wrench on it to turn it then a 2nd Person to drive a pry bar into the gap at the base. Together y’all turn n pry.
Agree I did similar work to a 1960 Lonestar vhull 13'. Enjoy watching these type vids. The pole if you can't access it from underneath I guess cut it off. Or you could cut off the base then replace it with new wood and fiberglass.
You can buy grinder cleaning wheels that will take the resin from those disks, they are not too expensive. Also, you can buy massive erasers that will clean your sanding belt. Great progress though.
Try to unscrew the seat post. Some have threads and a a bolt mounted to the bottom of the boat side of the mount. It is probably rusted together. Use penetrating oil and a pipe wrench and try unscrewing it. I had that problem on my 95 Stratos.
i used a pipe wrench to break loose my pedestal then used a pry bar to pry it up while tapping the side of it with a hammer, i soaked it in WD-40 prior to the breaking loose.
Deals are out there got 95 glassport with 95 merc 125 with 1psi under factory specs on every cylinder and hydraulic jack plate for 1200$ boat literally only needs carpet and will need new bunk boards and trailer jack.
Floor needs to go bro unfortunately, you can't (or at least you shouldn't fiber glass over known wet wood) so rip it all off to be safe and sound. Take also the opportunity to change all those crazy square head screws and switch them for stainless steel star ones. The project is moving along it is a steep task but we are confident you can do it. Boat will turn out 🔥. Good luck.
Good vid, looking forward to these two completions. Pole, you could saw off near base, jig saw one side of pole, on it's inside, makes pole able to be squeezed to a smaller diameter-or jig saw opposite sides of the pole from each other, pull out in two pieces. Deck/rotted wood, no suggestions, I'll be learning here myself.
Try a pipe wrench on that seat post but don’t go ham on it or you’ll end up tearing the floor up. Spray a bunch of dw40 around it several times for a few min then put the wrench on it.
I'm restoring a boat and I used a wire wheel on my grinder to remove the glue and what's left of the carpet. It works great but like you said it's definitely dusty
I have extensive experience with that hull because I had a '95 Pantera Classic. Pretty sure they still used wood in the transom in '96 but could be wrong because I think they switced to fiberglass towards the late 90's. As bad as that floor is there's a good chance the transom is gone too even if it's not showing it yet. The transom on mine got too bad to chance it about the time the 200hp Mariner EFI blew a hole in the block as a piston grenaded and locked it up tight. The Pantera is a sports car on the water and the not so soft ride and tight handling reflect that. The hull does like to get on top of chop and skip across. On that stuck pole get you a big pipe wrench and penetrant and start twisting. My friend just had to go through this with his Champion 196 on the rear seat pole after not pulling the folding seat in the back in at least 15 years. That GT150 looks to be from around '85 or '86. The trick to keeping those old OMC V6's alive is to not run them wide open very often. This has been our experience anyway. They are easy to rebuild as long as it doesn't completely trash itself when it lets go. You don't want to run one of those wide open anyway with gas being the way it is. I've bought gas for a GT150 when gas was over $4 a gallon. Wouldn't trade my VERY fuel efficient 4-stroke for anything.
I had to replace the wood and fiberglass on my P2. It wasn't the whole cockpit floor though. I slowly cut away pieces until I found good wood. Replaced the bad stuff, fiberglassed it all in and was good to go. I did get a bigger drain and made my drain hole larger too,
Check your transom integrity too. Have someone push and pull really hard on the foot of the motor while you watch where the motor mounts to the boat. There should be zero movement. And check your transom corners for cracked glass. If there’s any doubt it would be worth it to get a hole saw and drill some test holes to see what condition the plywood inside is like. Best case Ontario, you have to patch up a few holes, worst case you have to decide if a transom replacement is worth it.
bass cat had all those square drive screw fabricated back in the day before you could buy them.. it was to help stop striping out screws (always happens on a boat)
Also on the seat pole use some rust penetrating oil and really soak that metal in there before using whatever to pull it. Really sucks that this cat was made using wood. Bass cat uses 24oz marine carpet but it would be cool if you got seadek for it.
You can get replacement hydraulic lifts on ebay for not much $$$. They are great if its a windy day and that way your lids don't slam shut on a rod you are getting out or your head. I speak form experience (lol). The little metal piece on the front deck looks like a piece that goes under the trolling motor support so it doesn't ruin the carpet.
I have the same problem with my floor I found it easier just to cut the whole floor out, dry fit new wood and then epoxy the plywood outside of the boat then fit the floor in and then glass in place
Man, I don’t know. I don’t know if I’d trust the rest of the floor. You’re a trooper man, you’ll get there and it’s gotta be overwhelming. It’ll be worth it when you’re all done!🤞🏻
I would recommend going to harbor freight and picking up a stainless steel screw kit will save you time and make things easier to replace screw or if you loose one because trust me I redid a boat like yours and you will lose them
You’ll want to get your gas shock mounts back and buy replacement shocks. They keep the doors open in the wind and waves. Also hold the rod locker door open so it doesn’t slam on your rod tips while you are trying to get a rod out.
I don't know much about fiberglass boats but my initial concern after seeing the rotten floor wood is the stringers. I would personally have to know what condition they are in. if you take out the floor and the stringers are good it is a huge piece of mind that the boat is sound and just had a weak floor. lots of work but, you would know that the boat is solid after that and for me personally thats worth more than anything.
Hey man for the soft spot cut around about 4-5 inches into the solid deck and repair so you don’t have to do all of the floor if you have an email or anything I can send you pics of some that I’ve done (I redo boats for a living pretty much)
You are using grinding wheels for a purpose they were not intended for. Use flap disk for this task. Soft floors mean rotten floor and most likely rotten stringers. Gut the boat and pull the cap. triple the amount of time you were planning on. When you pull the cap you can drive the seat pole out from the underside of the cap when it has been removed.
I've been down this road a couple of times. The big thing with basscat is the cap removal. The way they build the boats it's almost impossible to separate the cap.
@@tnbass2833 I don’t think there is another here. The cap is glued to the stringers. The cut line for this boat is a couple inches in front of the vertical well wall on the deck itself. I unfortunately have done this many times and it’s the only way to replace the entire stringer. This is going to get expensive quickly. 1708 and resin have gone up in price. Min 5 gallons of poly 12 - 15 yards of 1708 & CSM. If you know what your doing this will cost 700-1000. If you don’t double it. Cut your losses
@@lanceforrest8828 I’m worried the stringers are bad but we’ll see when I pull the floor. If I have to go that route Pulling the cap is prob doable but as far as finding a lift to do it etc. idk
Definitely wouldn’t be replacing the entire floor. Just cut a section out and replace it that way. If you’re using a circular saw only go the thickness of the floor material. You absolutely don’t want to cut into a stringer. Also if you can cut both mating surfaces at a 45 degree angle. It will allow for a nice connection when mating the old floor to the new floor.
Screws are square due to the fact that stainless standard screw strip very easy so basscat has always went towards square headed screws. You will find they make a quality boat. Even though that one was very abused obviously. Also they will have any diagram you may need and any information. Great folks. I’m restoring a 2000 skeeter zx 195c and can’t find any wiring diagrams anywhere and no help from skeeter.
Don’t know if you’re thinking about it but should think about going back with some sort of aqua deck instead of carpet, that’s what I’m doing with my old boat.
Boat restoration is always exciting, until you hit a heartbreak like that floor. Seeing that you've found the floor bad, when you remove it, you'll need to do a thorough investigation of the stingers. Also notice if there are any other wooden components below deck that will need to be investigated as well. Use marine grade plywood, or if not coat everything in a liberal coating of fiberglass resin, especially any end grains.
Good luck doing that, Bass Cat glasses the entire topcap to the hull, that is one of the reasons most fiberglass shops list BassCat among the best built bass boats on the water.
@@TightlineTV great set of videos man! I’m going to reuse the seats in this one. Just figured out how to get the backs off. Now I will upholster them myself. I’ve already done the bottoms now for the top!! Keep killin’ it!!! Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
The Robertson (or square headed) screw is one of Canada's greatest contributions to the world. get over it being different, they torque better, unfastened easier and hold on the driver bit the best. instead of complaining about them, you would be better off getting a full selection of drivers and throw away all of your other screws. You'll never go back once you are prepared.
If both of these projects were mine .. I would get the both engines running leave the 50 on the other boat to demo and sell .. put the 150 on the other boat to add value to it and do the repairs as cheap as possible and sell it the bass cat ..use the cash from the other boat on a newer used engine or deposit on a brand new one
I knew the floor was coming out when ya said it felt like there was air. Start cutting back the floor and see how bad the floor is. And go from there replace the wood and glass over it
Yo bro good job. Good job stripping up floor in the boat. If I was you I would cut a 12x12 Square See how far that rotten wood go and replace it Jones weather and keep the fiberglass and refiber glasses back in there. Good job though I'm going to stay with you to the end
Drop me a comment! I love all the helpful suggestions👊🏻👊🏻 Thankyou!
That metal peice is where the trolling motor is at so they might have had a trolling motor with a stand on it like the lawerance ghost to keep a mark from getting in the carpet
You should only need to replace maybe 12" square around the drain and not the entire floor if the rest is solid as it looked in the last video. As far as removing the seat pole try spraying some Kroil all around the base where it is going in it and after it soaks for a hour you should be able to spin it freely and then be able to work it up and out. Kroil is just about the best penetrating oil that you can buy plus it makes for a great gun cleaner and reel cleaning oil...
After the penetrating oil put a pipe wrench on it to get it started
I work for Bass Cat. Call and ask to talk to Richard Mattey. He'll tell you anything you need to know. Btw, try acetone on the carpet glue. Oh, and the blotches in the boxes is black gelcoat "spackle", it's there to break up all the white. Just like you'd see in a camper shell on a pickup. I can answer a few questions, but Richard is the guru.
Just acetone the entire deck too get clean off the glue. Easy as can be.
For those rivets. You could’ve drilled them out. That’s just how you remove those pop rivets.
Also: the river works but someone drilling the hole first to a specified diameter, then putting the rivet with the right grip length in the hole. The the rivet gun pulls the stem through which crunches the backside and holds whatever your riveting down in place.
Cut around the outer edge all the way around but leave about 2 1/2 to 3 inches of the existing floor all the way around. Then inspect your stringers and any other damage you might have. Reinforce that 2 1/2 to 3 inch border and drop a perfect cut out of some 5/8 marine grade plywood on there. After you wrap it in carpet.or whatever flooring you're using. Use some cardboard for a template etc. It's a much easier cheaper and makes it insanely easy to run wires or work on anything down there.
Rotten floors most likely means a weak transom being that the stringers usually tie into the transom. A simple test would be to put your entire body weight on the lower unit of the outboard (basically stand on it) and if the transom flexes even the slightest you’ll need to replace that also. This might cost far more than the boat is even worth
It does look pretty bad doesn't it ??
100% agree back in February I tried contacting the guy who had it for sale never replied saw few comments left saying boat was really only worth the motor and trailer glad I saved 3hr trip found 85 glassport only needing new carpet.
Cant believe I had to scroll down this far to find someone talk about the transom! I wish him the best but he has no idea what all it will take to do it right
@@antrigen1480 right?? I really hope more people are aware of this and aren’t driving boats with a weak transom! They’ll learn the hard way that boats don’t float when you tear the motor off
Basscat use square drive screws/bolts for torque purpose. You can tighten those screws/bolts better than a flat tip or Phillips head screw/bolt.
According to Rick Pierce the reason they went to the custom made square drive screws is tgat it eleminated problems with stripping out the screw heads as much as being able to tighten them down better.
@@jamesdancey5525 the square head is actually called a robertson, #2 is most common. its used for almost everything here in canada be it machine screws, wood screws , self tapers etc etc. you can thank Henry ford and mr. robertson for it not being popular in the US, ford found it was a great fastener for model T's but they couldn't come to an agreement, about what I don't remember, so ford ended up using the phillips. I'm glad we use the robertson up here, they are great for bigger wood screws especially now with impact drivers being so common, they don't slip and with a fresh bit the screws don't fall off the bit unless you point the driver down.
To learn more about bass cat and how they build their boats and trailers look up the factory tour series, it has some good information from Rick Pierce and another person who sat down with Rick and talked to him about Bass Cat is Ken Smith Fishing. Bass Cat has always gone above and beyond in their builds. That why there are so many of the older ones still around. They are built well.
That seat pole is probably threaded on so use a pipe wrench and penetrating oil and maybe a pipe extension on the pipe wrench. It should work it’s way free. Good luck and only replace what part of the floor you need to!
In the past I have found that only the wood between the stringers is rotten.
I would only make small cuts around the drain and remove what is bad, glass in new wood under the floor, then glass in a replacement piece of floor.
The pedestal extension will need lots of spray lube and some heat, but it might only unscrew clockwise due to a welded on nut at the bottom . Good luck
Hopping for this to be the issue, my biggest worry is the stringers that’s a WHOLE nother ball game if there rotted
I would cut a bigger area out. You have to find the good wood, or replace it. If it was me, I'd take it all out, reinstall after new stringers and glass matting then floor the boat and reglass. Get rid of the cancer which would be all rotten wood. Opening up a bigger area let's you work easier as well as more access. Any questions hit me back and be willing to answer. And only use marine grade plywood, do not use anything pressure treated. Marine grade plywood. Get some Matt cloth, resin(5gal) finer cloth, and 220 is a finish sand grit, been better off with 100.
@@TightlineTV Read my reply below
@@TightlineTV That was what totaled my Charger 195vf. Ended up with two 4' long cracks in the hull. The drain plug on a 195vf is tough to get to with the stepped transom and I bet a lazy previous owner just didn't pull the plug for years. Can't get all the water out with the bilge pump alone and being a Missouri boat the water left in there could have easily froze and expanded cracking the glass around the stringers.
I agree, cut a 12" x 12" square around that drain, and fix the wood and replace it there. You might get lucky and that will be all the damage done. If the area around it is stable, then your good. The seat post likely is rusted tight. Yea, you can get that off eventually. Replace all carpeting and seats. Do not just scrimp on things.. Buy all new latches and hinges, and lid shocks. If this was my boat, I would immaculately restore this boat. That GT Motor is a strong machine, and a fast motor. I would get a fury prop like 23p 3-blade... to start. Onward! One more thing, check out the new bass cat seats and middle seat. You can buy a complete seat sections slightly used far cheaper.. Newer versions are more comfortable and you would be happier than the old bench style you have now.
MEK would have taking that glue right off. I did a restoration of my 1994 Astro which took me 1 1/2 years. I had to replace all the stringers, transom, floor and flotation. Cool video. I know the frustration and the amount of work it takes to due a job a restoration.
That is a labor of love there my friend. You can find some good things on Facebook but they do require a bit of work sometimes. Having the right tools definitely help too.
Haha having the right tools sometimes is everything!
I would def put in the work to rip the floor out. even if you dont fiberglass a new one in u could put a wooden subfloor in that will hold really well. If you want it to last def take it out.
I just did this to my 2000 coral. Now I have to set the motor height with the Jack plate and its ready to. Can’t wait to see the tbn stuff on it. I’m wanting to build a tackle bin in waisted space between the windshield and bow
Sentinal 747Plus Adhesive Remover works awesome and does not ruin the gel coat. It works really well and you save a ton of time.
To get my pedestal mount on my boat that was stuck in there real tight I had to take a great big pipe wrench and turn it inch by inch to come out.
Not gonna lie this series is making me want to buy an older bass boat and get to work! I’ve got a cool jon boat project I’m doing right now but I’ve always wanted a bass boat.
I currently know your pain buddy. I have a 97 skeeter zx185 that I’m redoing. I got it off Facebook market place for 1800 bucks. The work is so worth it. I’ll have way less in it when I’m done redoing it that what the boat is worth or I could resale it for. So just keep grinding and when it’s done that feeling is awesome. Looking forward to many more videos following your build
That metal tab at front of boat looks like a pad for a trolling motor support rod. Not entirely sure, but that's what it looks like and where it is located that is about all I can think of. Good luck on your adventure!
The post, liquid wrench. . The floor . . Take floor out . . Fill back with expand a foam . . Fiber glass or sheet of aluminum . . . I've done 3 of what your are doing now . . 👍 It will be worth it when you are done . . .
I just did a whole boat restoration and ran into some softness in the floor. What I did (which may not be the best but it was the cheapest/easiest) is just cut a square around the rotten part and put a new piece of treated plywood and fiberglass over top. It’s working good so far
Hoping that’s all it need
@@TightlineTV I think it’ll last a while another suggestion I would have because I wish I would’ve done it, Is reinforce the lids if they have any give at all
For the stuck seat pole, I put a pipe wrench on it to turn it then a 2nd Person to drive a pry bar into the gap at the base. Together y’all turn n pry.
Always good to see older boats come back to life! We all can't afford 80k+ for a brand new one 😂😂
Right ! Haha
Agree I did similar work to a 1960 Lonestar vhull 13'. Enjoy watching these type vids. The pole if you can't access it from underneath I guess cut it off. Or you could cut off the base then replace it with new wood and fiberglass.
I will never understand people who will buy a new boat and leave it outside for the rain and sun to kill it! Just mind boggling!
I am eager to see the finished product. This before and after should be really neat!!
You can buy grinder cleaning wheels that will take the resin from those disks, they are not too expensive. Also, you can buy massive erasers that will clean your sanding belt. Great progress though.
Try to unscrew the seat post. Some have threads and a a bolt mounted to the bottom of the boat side of the mount. It is probably rusted together. Use penetrating oil and a pipe wrench and try unscrewing it. I had that problem on my 95 Stratos.
i used a pipe wrench to break loose my pedestal then used a pry bar to pry it up while tapping the side of it with a hammer, i soaked it in WD-40 prior to the breaking loose.
Deals are out there got 95 glassport with 95 merc 125 with 1psi under factory specs on every cylinder and hydraulic jack plate for 1200$ boat literally only needs carpet and will need new bunk boards and trailer jack.
Floor needs to go bro unfortunately, you can't (or at least you shouldn't fiber glass over known wet wood) so rip it all off to be safe and sound. Take also the opportunity to change all those crazy square head screws and switch them for stainless steel star ones. The project is moving along it is a steep task but we are confident you can do it. Boat will turn out 🔥. Good luck.
Thankyou for your support! Love your positivity. 👊🏻
Squares are so much better than stars. Strip way less
Good vid, looking forward to these two completions.
Pole, you could saw off near base, jig saw one side of pole, on it's inside, makes pole able to be squeezed to a smaller diameter-or jig saw opposite sides of the pole from each other, pull out in two pieces.
Deck/rotted wood, no suggestions, I'll be learning here myself.
Try a pipe wrench on that seat post but don’t go ham on it or you’ll end up tearing the floor up. Spray a bunch of dw40 around it several times for a few min then put the wrench on it.
I'm restoring a boat and I used a wire wheel on my grinder to remove the glue and what's left of the carpet. It works great but like you said it's definitely dusty
That cap is a pressure relief valve. It is there to help relieve humidity and keep the wood (under the decking) from rotting! How did it work?
I have extensive experience with that hull because I had a '95 Pantera Classic. Pretty sure they still used wood in the transom in '96 but could be wrong because I think they switced to fiberglass towards the late 90's. As bad as that floor is there's a good chance the transom is gone too even if it's not showing it yet. The transom on mine got too bad to chance it about the time the 200hp Mariner EFI blew a hole in the block as a piston grenaded and locked it up tight. The Pantera is a sports car on the water and the not so soft ride and tight handling reflect that. The hull does like to get on top of chop and skip across. On that stuck pole get you a big pipe wrench and penetrant and start twisting. My friend just had to go through this with his Champion 196 on the rear seat pole after not pulling the folding seat in the back in at least 15 years. That GT150 looks to be from around '85 or '86. The trick to keeping those old OMC V6's alive is to not run them wide open very often. This has been our experience anyway. They are easy to rebuild as long as it doesn't completely trash itself when it lets go. You don't want to run one of those wide open anyway with gas being the way it is. I've bought gas for a GT150 when gas was over $4 a gallon. Wouldn't trade my VERY fuel efficient 4-stroke for anything.
I had to replace the wood and fiberglass on my P2. It wasn't the whole cockpit floor though. I slowly cut away pieces until I found good wood. Replaced the bad stuff, fiberglassed it all in and was good to go. I did get a bigger drain and made my drain hole larger too,
Check your transom integrity too. Have someone push and pull really hard on the foot of the motor while you watch where the motor mounts to the boat. There should be zero movement. And check your transom corners for cracked glass. If there’s any doubt it would be worth it to get a hole saw and drill some test holes to see what condition the plywood inside is like. Best case Ontario, you have to patch up a few holes, worst case you have to decide if a transom replacement is worth it.
bass cat had all those square drive screw fabricated back in the day before you could buy them.. it was to help stop striping out screws (always happens on a boat)
Also on the seat pole use some rust penetrating oil and really soak that metal in there before using whatever to pull it. Really sucks that this cat was made using wood. Bass cat uses 24oz marine carpet but it would be cool if you got seadek for it.
All boats were made with wood up until the early 2000’s. All Basscats models have been 100% fiberglass since 2002
Hats off to you. I always want to do a project boat but idk if I want the headache. Hope all goes well!!
Robertson bits are the only way to go. I can’t believe people use anything else!
You can get replacement hydraulic lifts on ebay for not much $$$. They are great if its a windy day and that way your lids don't slam shut on a rod you are getting out or your head. I speak form experience (lol).
The little metal piece on the front deck looks like a piece that goes under the trolling motor support so it doesn't ruin the carpet.
I wondered that at first but if so why drill a hole in the deck just for that 🤔 haha
I have the same problem with my floor I found it easier just to cut the whole floor out, dry fit new wood and then epoxy the plywood outside of the boat then fit the floor in and then glass in place
You're edits are getting way better man this was a good video.
Thanks man!
Man, I don’t know. I don’t know if I’d trust the rest of the floor. You’re a trooper man, you’ll get there and it’s gotta be overwhelming. It’ll be worth it when you’re all done!🤞🏻
It’s not looking good lol
Good luck my friend. I'm restoring my 93 Stratos too. I now what is like. I'm doing my floor now🤣 same situation
I would recommend going to harbor freight and picking up a stainless steel screw kit will save you time and make things easier to replace screw or if you loose one because trust me I redid a boat like yours and you will lose them
I think that metal cap was a spot for the trolling motor arm to stand so it didn’t make a round creator in the carpet
You’ll want to get your gas shock mounts back and buy replacement shocks. They keep the doors open in the wind and waves. Also hold the rod locker door open so it doesn’t slam on your rod tips while you are trying to get a rod out.
Heard!
I don't know much about fiberglass boats but my initial concern after seeing the rotten floor wood is the stringers. I would personally have to know what condition they are in. if you take out the floor and the stringers are good it is a huge piece of mind that the boat is sound and just had a weak floor. lots of work but, you would know that the boat is solid after that and for me personally thats worth more than anything.
Use a pipe wrench on the seat pole my guy! 💪
Will try in next update!
Hey man for the soft spot cut around about 4-5 inches into the solid deck and repair so you don’t have to do all of the floor if you have an email or anything I can send you pics of some that I’ve done (I redo boats for a living pretty much)
You are using grinding wheels for a purpose they were not intended for. Use flap disk for this task. Soft floors mean rotten floor and most likely rotten stringers. Gut the boat and pull the cap. triple the amount of time you were planning on. When you pull the cap you can drive the seat pole out from the underside of the cap when it has been removed.
I've been down this road a couple of times. The big thing with basscat is the cap removal. The way they build the boats it's almost impossible to separate the cap.
@@tnbass2833 I don’t think there is another here. The cap is glued to the stringers. The cut line for this boat is a couple inches in front of the vertical well wall on the deck itself. I unfortunately have done this many times and it’s the only way to replace the entire stringer. This is going to get expensive quickly. 1708 and resin have gone up in price. Min 5 gallons of poly 12 - 15 yards of 1708 & CSM. If you know what your doing this will cost 700-1000. If you don’t double it. Cut your losses
@@lanceforrest8828 I’m worried the stringers are bad but we’ll see when I pull the floor. If I have to go that route Pulling the cap is prob doable but as far as finding a lift to do it etc. idk
What grit sandpaper did you use for the fiber glass? Just bought a 1994 triton
Definitely wouldn’t be replacing the entire floor. Just cut a section out and replace it that way. If you’re using a circular saw only go the thickness of the floor material. You absolutely don’t want to cut into a stringer. Also if you can cut both mating surfaces at a 45 degree angle. It will allow for a nice connection when mating the old floor to the new floor.
Screws are square due to the fact that stainless standard screw strip very easy so basscat has always went towards square headed screws. You will find they make a quality boat. Even though that one was very abused obviously. Also they will have any diagram you may need and any information. Great folks. I’m restoring a 2000 skeeter zx 195c and can’t find any wiring diagrams anywhere and no help from skeeter.
Don’t know if you’re thinking about it but should think about going back with some sort of aqua deck instead of carpet, that’s what I’m doing with my old boat.
On the back spray some penetrating oil in there and then use a pipe wrench to get it loose
For the pedestal that is stuck the only option that I found with mine was to just sawzaw it off
cant wait for more progress
For carpet glue use Accutane and a scrapper,
Just thinkin if not answered. Maybe those metal things above the carpet are for ropes to secure to the docks?
Boat restoration is always exciting, until you hit a heartbreak like that floor. Seeing that you've found the floor bad, when you remove it, you'll need to do a thorough investigation of the stingers. Also notice if there are any other wooden components below deck that will need to be investigated as well. Use marine grade plywood, or if not coat everything in a liberal coating of fiberglass resin, especially any end grains.
lets goooo! Tear the whole top cap off 😂
If I do your coming to help me! 😂
Good luck doing that, Bass Cat glasses the entire topcap to the hull, that is one of the reasons most fiberglass shops list BassCat among the best built bass boats on the water.
Should use a wire wheel on your grinder
How did you get the seat backs out? I’m restoring a ‘90 Margay II and I need to get the seat backs reupholstered. Any info would be super helpful
I bought new seats and used the old base to mount them
@@TightlineTV great set of videos man! I’m going to reuse the seats in this one. Just figured out how to get the backs off. Now I will upholster them myself. I’ve already done the bottoms now for the top!! Keep killin’ it!!! Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
Cut out some treated plywood carpet it put it on top of floor works and will look good to
and those screws are a Canadian invention GO CANADA GO LOL
One tip about keeping fiberglass off your body would be to use a Tyvek suit.
I replaced the pistons for the lids on my 93 pantera and they are pretty cheap for what it's worth.
Awsome vid. I restored a 1986 cajun bass boat know i wish i would of recorded it
Get A 36 grit flap disk for that angle grinder it'll make your life so easy
The Robertson (or square headed) screw is one of Canada's greatest contributions to the world. get over it being different, they torque better, unfastened easier and hold on the driver bit the best.
instead of complaining about them, you would be better off getting a full selection of drivers and throw away all of your other screws. You'll never go back once you are prepared.
Save all those struts. Some can purchased pretty cheaply if you can match them up.
that bit is common in Canada @3:40
Love this Jordan keep goin
Team basscat hit with a big ole doozy but we still got faith 💪🏼
Have you tried to put a pipe wrench on the seat pole and unscrew it. I boat a bass boat and one of the poles were rusted but finally unscrewed
Not yet, I will def try that!
I would cut a little at a time around the drain hole until you hit good floor .put some penatrating fluid on the pole let it sit for a while
Looking forward to the next video good job so far and u could try soaking that stuck pole with some kinda penetrating oil that might help loosen it up
That’s my thought but currently trying to figure out out to get some form of lube in there
Just use w/d 40 like wolf said or something similar it will creep in there on its own
Use Kroil oil to loosen that pole up. Best penetrating oil on the planet.
Are you gonna seadek it or back with carpet? Interested to see what you do with the hatch lids in either case.
We’ll have to see!
The seat pole is most likely threaded, screw it out.
This is your answer for the pole
If both of these projects were mine .. I would get the both engines running leave the 50 on the other boat to demo and sell .. put the 150 on the other boat to add value to it and do the repairs as cheap as possible and sell it
the bass cat ..use the cash from the other boat on a newer used engine or deposit on a brand new one
I knew the floor was coming out when ya said it felt like there was air.
Start cutting back the floor and see how bad the floor is. And go from there replace the wood and glass over it
What is the song at 10:48?
I think maybe that was to hold the trolling motor off the deck but idk
It's a bump stop for your Trolin motor
If you're going to do it, do it right. Pull the cap and check your stringers as well.
Did you make sure the transom isn’t rotten before dumping money into it
best to split the boat as you will porb have to re due the stringers ( that sucks )
Some of the seat pedistols srew in
Those "square" screws are robertsons... Originally a Canadian thing. Better than the Phillips.
I had the same problem I just rebuild the boat completely
Yo bro good job. Good job stripping up floor in the boat. If I was you I would cut a 12x12 Square See how far that rotten wood go and replace it Jones weather and keep the fiberglass and refiber glasses back in there. Good job though I'm going to stay with you to the end
Appreciate you bro👊🏻
The seat pole may have to be unscrewed to come out they screw in on my boat
If you haven’t got it off yet that rear pedestal screws out
A lot of stainless steel hardware is square head like that one.
the pole screws in
get flap disc for your sander, those looked like polishing discs not sanding discs....
My seat post screw in. I would see if I could unscrew it.
The seat pipe is probably threaded in