For an 80e in the squarebody, you can use a th400 front yoke with a conversion joint to the stock shaft. I found that the factory 80e yoke used the big 1410 ujoint and it's next to impossible to find a conversion joint for it, so yea th400 w/ 1330 or 1350 works nice in an 80e for a swap!👌💪
I need to drop down my fuel tank from my 85 C10, look like those fuel OEM rubber hose did there time, Your video give a head up on how to do that. Thanks for taking time to show all that, much appreciated
I used a thicker gasket to remedy the issue you had with the AN fittings on top of the tank. My tank shipped with them, made enough clearance to put the fittings in
I don't want to sound like an ass....but.. the correct answer to greaserthought garage's question about the frame notch is Yes, it is bad, very bad... I was a body and frame guy when ttr's truck was new. GM started narrowing the flanges of the frame rails of the square body trucks with the second generation in '81. If you look at trucks from '60 on up the design is almost identical but the flanges on the older trucks are almost twice as wide. The later sqbods need all the help they can get. The problem is that all your steering assembly is mounted pretty far forward on the rails. Giving it a lot of leverage to flex the rails. Enough flex cycles and and you have metal fatigue and cracks. Add big tires and wheels and the forces increase, especially at low speeds like pulling in a parking space. 4x4's with big tires are even harder on the narrow rails. Have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you watch the front bumper. You will see it wiggle side to side. Usually the cracks start at the steering box bolts. I have seen frames where the steering box had almost broken off and the owner was wondering why their truck was handling poorly.. long story short...please please please reinforce the notch for the AC compressor... for safety's sake. Very cool trucks on your channel..I've had 3 '68's, a '70 and a '72 2wd Blazer..just bought a '71 with beautiful patina and very little rust. KEEP ON TRUCKIN'!
Now this is the type of constructive criticism and thoughtful response that i wish more people online would employ. Thank you for this info. We'll definitely take it under consideration. I've certainly heard that about the steering box on these trucks but never seen it on the dozen I've owned. That said, it all makes sense. Thanks for the response and for tuning in.
jeff pitzer I’m a body guy myself. There were 5-6 holes right there in that section. I simply connected them together. IMO in a wreck that section would buckle either way. I cut the minimal amount out to clear the compressor. There is no room for a reinforcement.
@@twotrucksron4116 Hey Ron, first off, congrats on a cool truck! If i ever get to an event in your neck of the woods I'd love a ride...or if you ever get to Texas maybe that could happen. I've been a welder and fabricator as well as body and frame guy since I was 14 yrs old ( believe me that's a lot of life experience for a geezer like me). Although I was not addressing the way that the vehicle would absorb energy in a crash the notch will definitely affect the way it folds up in collision as it was designed by GM. Let's hope that never happens but there are a lot of idiots that we share the road with. My concern is metal fatigue in either frame rail from flex induced by the steering system.. if you ever convert it to rack and pinion...problem solved. But in the mean time I prefer to err on the side of caution. There's always a way to fix a problem. What if you made a "C" shaped reinforcement out of 3/16" by maybe 2" or so? Weld it in vertically along the top edges of your notch. Or even bolt a flat piece of 3/8" plate on the inside of the vertical part of the rail? Both remedies would affect the crashworthiness of the rail as well as the notch as it exists now. The "C" would probably have less negative effect than the plate IMHO. I am not an automotive engineer!.. But in extreme cornering and the metal fatigue issue i believe that it would help. Also some big washers or reinforcement plate at the steering box wouldn't be a bad idea. Hope this helps you or anyone else in this situation... let's keep everyone safe and our rides performing at their best.. Btw. GM solved this problem in the next gen CK trucks with a totally boxed front framerail section until under the cab... KEEP ON TRUCKIN'
jeff pitzer one day I’d like to go to rack and pinion or possibly even a newer chassis altogether. People have notched it like this before without incident but there’s always room for improvement. I understand your advice and been considering some sort of brace there but it’ll come later on down the road. You come to an event and I’ll definitely take you for a ride. 💰💰
8:42 I have some "extra cool" metal flake but not exactly on my black '70 Mustang. Shop I was working in as a kid, we sprayed some semi wheels silver and the overspray settled on my car that was a lot further away than that shiny pickup in the background. Enjoying the videos.
i dont think you had to cut the frame for the ac compressor tejas steelworks mounts raises your engine so you can keep your compressor down below i have an 1983 c10 shortbed and bought same mounts for 5.3 vortec
Engine swap issues for Frankentruck: 1) 2 barrel intake junk, replace with 4 barrel manifold. 2) Swap old timing cover to new engine so short water pump would fit. 3) Used wrong oil pan gasket at first, had to drop pan with engine in truck. 4) did not seal intake properly, had to remove and reseal after engine in truck. 5) 2 barrel to 4 barrel adapter didn't work, had to buy new carb. 6) tried to use old water pump (opened it up to check internals and replace gasket) new gasket leaked, replaced with new pump. 7) thermostat housing warped and leaked, had to replace thermostat. 8) Used wrong gasket for quadrajet carb with a factory hotslot manifold, replaced gaskets. 9) Had to take manifold to machine shop to drill and tap the coolant temp sender hole to a larger size. 10) Broke old harmonic dampener, had to replace it. Wow, double digits of issues lol The engine swap took me from the end of May to the beginning of August last summer (2018)
Suggestion from a body man... it’s easier to unbolt the bed and remove than struggle from underneath the truck. Very nice how to vids. Definately follow for my project. Thank you!
Thanks Ron, Like I said I just bought a '71 I'm considering a LS swap for it as it didn't have the 402 big block that the General blessed it with several decades ago. I (being a dinosaur) don't have much knowledge about the electronic systems that modern engines have that allow them to make efficient HP... I would like to pick your brain sometime about what works and what doesn't. KEEP ON TRUCKIN' Jeff
Great video guys, cool how it's all being done in a home garage and you figure things out as you go along...good stuff. Looking forward to the next video and no pressure this time Robbie 😂👍
I’ve broke two head bolts so that’s always fun. But I’m about to the motor in and mock it up! Just finished swapping in a aeromotive 340 stealth pump into a new saddle tank! Keep up the good work!
Heck yeah, Evan. And bummer on the head bolts. I know exhaust manifold bolts are common failures on these motors but not head bolts. good luck with those!
Whitlock Garage oh yeah I had a exhaust bolt break as well! But thank goodness I was able to get them all out! Getting a little help from a guy in Arkansas to have the truck all wrapped up by the end of July hopefully!
That's interesting never thought about what would be involved priming an oil pump in an LS. I'm used to using a drill through the distributor hole method on a small block.
Yeah, I wasn't aware of it either, bc I typically just drop a junkyard motor in and go, but since he semi-built this one and had it all apart, he's taking all the precautions.
I have 87 showt bed 2 wheel I did 5.3 4l60e and used dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts stock motor mounts and stock trans cross members and used 85 4 door caprice drive shaft and it has 6 inch drop in the back fuel lines will be nice I utilized the stock fuel lines from the tahoe seeing those lines makes want to change the set up
I Love Your Channel, I have been putting together a 79 square body, and put in a nice to Gas Tank on the Drivers side, "duel tanks" and began putting in the fuel.. WHATS that smell.. a damn crack in the bottom of the tank! There really NO fun to take out once you have set the cab on.. OMG.. but hey its a chevy!! I will deal with it!!
Two Trucks Ron i thought it was a good idea to go to costco and by a 8 pack of shop towels, that was a year ago lol 🤦🏻♂️. Gotta use them for something lol
Very cool, i was taught to pull yoke from trans out 1 1/2 then measure like you said, but could be due to driveshaft shop aswell, either very awesome video!!!! Gona be a sweet ride......i have a 86 c10 short....used to be a v6 swapped in a 305 ho....
I just finished a 6.0/80e in an 84, and thought I'd share another tank option, I used a '87 factory replacement tank, and sender, and just stuck a walbro 255 on the sender and good to go. '87 squarebodys had tbi, so it's a straight bolt in, and the factory fuel gauge works too. Mabye alittle more budget friendly, Just thought I'd share!
Thanks for sharing. We were aware of this option but Ron wanted to go this route and its been a proven set-up for a lot of the guys who do LS squarebody swaps around here.
Awesome progress guy's! And ouch on the cut. I would use a file to get rid of that edge so it doesn't cut anyone else. Great footage and love this type of videos✊😎
Idk why I had issues with motor mount adapters to put a LS engine in a 90s OBS I actually ended up using adapters for a 85 and also cut the ears on the mounts like u guys had to wiggle the engine and pry bar it a little to make bolts go in
GMT400 (88-98) tank mount is SO much easier. Two straps, and done. Sorry for the cut, but that's how you know your working right.. ya gotta drawl blood.
Love the vids. Great info. Thanks for following me on IG as well. My gold ‘68 C10 is coming along. Posted new pics today. Looking forward to taking it to C10s in the Park in Waxahachie TX. You guys need to come in for that event in September.
Thanks for tuning in here! Your gold '68 is sweet. And we're considering coming out. Honestly we like to drive places and it takes some additional planning to get out there. We shall see!
Looks like you guys are coming along with the truck. Had no clue you guys are in my neck of the woods. Thought that American Driveshaft sounded familiar lol
Hey Robbie y’all ever heard of A Gear Head 4 Life he’s got a TH-cam channel with lots of LS Swapping info man as always brother awesome content bro ! That Ron is on knowledgeable SOB .. I tell you what ! Believe you me ... I’m from Texas man sorry bud
haha he is for sure! And I'll have to check out the AG4L channel. This isn't our first rodeo but it's never as easy as I remember it. No matter how much you plan, it never works out perfectly.
I guess more of a question for Ron... That relief in the frame for the AC unit... Still structurally sound, or should a brace be made for the outside of the frame?
For people measuring your driveshaft for the first time, measure with the vehicle's suspension loaded, aka vehicle on the ground, and if you aren't just driving around on flat terrain and you plan on off-roading or otherwise launching your vehicle it would behoove you to measure unloaded. Also going from stock suspension with like a TH350 trans and then raising the vehicle up and swapping in a 4L80E could change the driveline geometry tremendously and may necessitate a yoke eliminator with a slip spline/slip yoke or CV driveshaft etc.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS thank you for responding, I'm trying to figure out what wires do what on my bulkhead. I have a 83 Silverado that had a 305/700r4. Thanks!
Using a $600 torque wrench in a $6 chair.......surprised TTR can get pants on with cajones like that! Lol. My dad loves those chairs. I end up picking them out of my over the limit tail end What is the website TTR referenced when he was talking about priming the oil pump? I tried several times but couldn’t make it out.
Dude. It hit me that way too. This truck has been 3 stage buffed with a Torqx orbital buffer. Not all squares, especially the mid 80s ones, will buff out like this, but this one is the best I've seen. Gotta start with good original paint.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS I'm not doing an LS swap on my 84, but these two vid have helped me figure out a few things! Thanks for all the work man. when you get a chance check mine out and let me know what ya'll think
@@4MATAStudio That's the point, ben. There's a million ways to do all of this stuff, and we're honestly just out here having fun, but I'm glad we can be of help. Good luck with that '84. They're special.
Throwing a lot at you here to help with your Fitting Issues and lines of any connection Mastercool sells a tool that makes a flare of any type Quick Connect GM, Ford, a n, also does standard flares also done some stainless lines kind of hard on it but it did the job and many more and it's hydraulic handheld hand pump it's awesome look it up you'll love it comes with like 10 different sets of dies to begin and probably I'm guessing a hundred more sets of different kinds whatever you want to get with it and it's not very pricey for the dies but the initial cost of the tool I think it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 with ten sets of dies I believe, bought my first snap on found out later that Napa carries them might be able to find them online
Apologies for that. I have no control over the frequency, however, I do monetize my videos because it enables me to continue to buy parts, trucks, and gear to create the content. Thanks for tuning in and bearing with it.
Just finally got my 86 Sierra Classic back from the guy who was "fixing it" for me. Naturally he did nothing but spend my money. So my new mechanic is LS swapping it this week and I'm planning on doing a street rod setup for it. I love that gas tank setup also. Do they have any setups for the dual tank trucks? I have two and I absolutely wanna keep both.
So quick question on driveshaft, between a Tahoe and suburban are they the same length? I would think it's better to cut it than to add to it, or maybe even one from a long bed truck.
Thanks for the video. Been watching a lot of LS videos getting ready for my own build. I'm curious about the use of what looks like standard RTV silicone around the knock sensors, though. Will that stand up to the heat? I'd have thought a more heat resistant gasket maker like the Permatex red would be used for that.
Thanks, TommyGun! I think theres probably a thousand ways to do it, but yeah a gasket maker like permeated would likely hold better/last longer, however, this is what we had at the time, and we believe this is better than nothing and will certainly achieve our goals.
Thanks fort he response. I understand completely. Get 'er done with what's on hand and keep moving forward. Good luck and looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheers.
Thought about that but it would still make it impossible to put the female AN fitting on the actual pump fitting. That lip is in the way all around the edge of the pump. Trust me, we tried everything.
Mike Lewellen it’s a compact unit. It has a filter inside of it. Instead of having a regulator and then a filter along the rail you just have the corvette regulator. Their inexpensive and just as easy to replace as any other gm fuel filter 💰💰
and in a returnless style fuel system(which means no return line at fuel rail) it cleans things up and puts everything toward the tank instead of near the motor.
Awesome work guys, I'm following you're build as I do mine. But I have a question about the fuel delivery. Have you guys looked into the holley direct fit replacement intank pump? I'm kinda leaning towards that for myself and wanted to know what yall think about it.
Hey, Eduardo! Very cool. We actually weren't aware of it until after we'd settled on this approach. That said, I've heard nothing but good things about it. I'd go for it for sure.
love the videos. im currently building 3 c10s. i would love to get with you i have a truck you would really like. 72 c10 georgia tech maintenance truck. 7100 actual miles.. super original except lowered.
![ตีสิบเดย์ [FULL] | อาจารย์โอเล่ ญาณสัมผัส ผ่าดวงคนดัง ประเทศไทยจะเป็นยังไงหลังจากนี้!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gszT2O76fL4/mqdefault.jpg)
For an 80e in the squarebody, you can use a th400 front yoke with a conversion joint to the stock shaft. I found that the factory 80e yoke used the big 1410 ujoint and it's next to impossible to find a conversion joint for it, so yea th400 w/ 1330 or 1350 works nice in an 80e for a swap!👌💪
Very helpful info. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for giving me something to watch at 4am sitting in the hospital!!!!
Jason Turner you and your family are in our thoughts and prayers buddy
Thanks, Jason! Sorry you're having to be there but glad to give you a little relief.
I need to drop down my fuel tank from my 85 C10, look like those fuel OEM rubber hose did there time,
Your video give a head up on how to do that.
Thanks for taking time to show all that, much appreciated
Yes sir! Thanks for tuning in. We're just average guys trying to make it happen.
Great video. Thanks for posting and great information. I have been planing for my 81 squarebody LS swap.
Awesome! There's a thousand ways to do it but this series gives a good visual as to what it takes.
I used a thicker gasket to remedy the issue you had with the AN fittings on top of the tank. My tank shipped with them, made enough clearance to put the fittings in
Good to know!
I don't want to sound like an ass....but.. the correct answer to greaserthought garage's question about the frame notch is Yes, it is bad, very bad... I was a body and frame guy when ttr's truck was new. GM started narrowing the flanges of the frame rails of the square body trucks with the second generation in '81. If you look at trucks from '60 on up the design is almost identical but the flanges on the older trucks are almost twice as wide. The later sqbods need all the help they can get. The problem is that all your steering assembly is mounted pretty far forward on the rails. Giving it a lot of leverage to flex the rails. Enough flex cycles and and you have metal fatigue and cracks. Add big tires and wheels and the forces increase, especially at low speeds like pulling in a parking space. 4x4's with big tires are even harder on the narrow rails. Have someone turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you watch the front bumper. You will see it wiggle side to side. Usually the cracks start at the steering box bolts. I have seen frames where the steering box had almost broken off and the owner was wondering why their truck was handling poorly.. long story short...please please please reinforce the notch for the AC compressor... for safety's sake. Very cool trucks on your channel..I've had 3 '68's, a '70 and a '72 2wd Blazer..just bought a '71 with beautiful patina and very little rust. KEEP ON TRUCKIN'!
Now this is the type of constructive criticism and thoughtful response that i wish more people online would employ. Thank you for this info. We'll definitely take it under consideration. I've certainly heard that about the steering box on these trucks but never seen it on the dozen I've owned. That said, it all makes sense. Thanks for the response and for tuning in.
jeff pitzer I’m a body guy myself. There were 5-6 holes right there in that section. I simply connected them together. IMO in a wreck that section would buckle either way. I cut the minimal amount out to clear the compressor. There is no room for a reinforcement.
@@twotrucksron4116 Hey Ron, first off, congrats on a cool truck! If i ever get to an event in your neck of the woods I'd love a ride...or if you ever get to Texas maybe that could happen. I've been a welder and fabricator as well as body and frame guy since I was 14 yrs old ( believe me that's a lot of life experience for a geezer like me). Although I was not addressing the way that the vehicle would absorb energy in a crash the notch will definitely affect the way it folds up in collision as it was designed by GM. Let's hope that never happens but there are a lot of idiots that we share the road with. My concern is metal fatigue in either frame rail from flex induced by the steering system.. if you ever convert it to rack and pinion...problem solved. But in the mean time I prefer to err on the side of caution. There's always a way to fix a problem. What if you made a "C" shaped reinforcement out of 3/16" by maybe 2" or so? Weld it in vertically along the top edges of your notch. Or even bolt a flat piece of 3/8" plate on the inside of the vertical part of the rail? Both remedies would affect the crashworthiness of the rail as well as the notch as it exists now. The "C" would probably have less negative effect than the plate IMHO. I am not an automotive engineer!.. But in extreme cornering and the metal fatigue issue i believe that it would help. Also some big washers or reinforcement plate at the steering box wouldn't be a bad idea. Hope this helps you or anyone else in this situation... let's keep everyone safe and our rides performing at their best.. Btw. GM solved this problem in the next gen CK trucks with a totally boxed front framerail section until under the cab... KEEP ON TRUCKIN'
@@jeffpitzer8521 Again, well thought out and solid advice. Thanks for giving us more to think about and consider. Appreciate you!
jeff pitzer one day I’d like to go to rack and pinion or possibly even a newer chassis altogether. People have notched it like this before without incident but there’s always room for improvement. I understand your advice and been considering some sort of brace there but it’ll come later on down the road. You come to an event and I’ll definitely take you for a ride. 💰💰
Just started my swap on a 83 c10.. thank you for the video, and hard work..
Glad it helped
8:42 I have some "extra cool" metal flake but not exactly on my black '70 Mustang. Shop I was working in as a kid, we sprayed some semi wheels silver and the overspray settled on my car that was a lot further away than that shiny pickup in the background. Enjoying the videos.
haha I've definitely been victim to the overspray. I'll have to go back and check the 8:42 part. Not sure i caught it.
I like it when Ron says “Go Full Combat On It”...
haha that's his other life mantra
Nothing in the eyes ? Truly amazing
haha right?!?!
Some really good tips and tricks!
It’s great you guys show what can wrong instead of editing it out and saying yep piece of cake lol
Appreciate you picking up on that! That's what we're all about.
juiced71 that’s why we do it. It ain’t always rainbows and unicorn farts. Stay tuned for the first fire 💰💰
Two Trucks Ron hell yeah I for one appreciate it ! I have a buddy who might do this swap definitely come in handy!!
i dont think you had to cut the frame for the ac compressor tejas steelworks mounts raises your engine so you can keep your compressor down below i have an 1983 c10 shortbed and bought same mounts for 5.3 vortec
Man I love the wheels on that truck! I can't remember if they were on when he was surprised with it. I'll have to go back. But that truck is badass!
It's so badass. And yep, they were on it. 20" American Racing TTIIs.
Engine swap issues for Frankentruck: 1) 2 barrel intake junk, replace with 4 barrel manifold. 2) Swap old timing cover to new engine so short water pump would fit. 3) Used wrong oil pan gasket at first, had to drop pan with engine in truck. 4) did not seal intake properly, had to remove and reseal after engine in truck. 5) 2 barrel to 4 barrel adapter didn't work, had to buy new carb. 6) tried to use old water pump (opened it up to check internals and replace gasket) new gasket leaked, replaced with new pump. 7) thermostat housing warped and leaked, had to replace thermostat. 8) Used wrong gasket for quadrajet carb with a factory hotslot manifold, replaced gaskets. 9) Had to take manifold to machine shop to drill and tap the coolant temp sender hole to a larger size. 10) Broke old harmonic dampener, had to replace it.
Wow, double digits of issues lol
The engine swap took me from the end of May to the beginning of August last summer (2018)
Wheweeee! That makes me cringe.
Suggestion from a body man... it’s easier to unbolt the bed and remove than struggle from underneath the truck. Very nice how to vids. Definately follow for my project. Thank you!
Thanks much! Appreciate it.
What a great video 👍 guys it's good to watch and learn.. keep the good work 👍.
Thanks for tuning in, as always, Pedro!
Thanks Ron, Like I said I just bought a '71 I'm considering a LS swap for it as it didn't have the 402 big block that the General blessed it with several decades ago. I (being a dinosaur) don't have much knowledge about the electronic systems that modern engines have that allow them to make efficient HP... I would like to pick your brain sometime about what works and what doesn't.
KEEP ON TRUCKIN'
Jeff
Hey, jeff. That sounds awesome. Shoot us an email at unitedbytrucks@gmail.com and I'll make sure Ron weighs in.
Great video guys, cool how it's all being done in a home garage and you figure things out as you go along...good stuff. Looking forward to the next video and no pressure this time Robbie 😂👍
haha thanks, Allan! You're the man.
Air rachet an impact swivel or wabbel head extensions are amazing for taking out sqr body gas tanks after breaking them loose with regular ratchet
Yup. We actually ended up using a snap-on battery powered ratchet for the rear bolts. worked great.
man ron I need that vibratin; torque wrench,, yeah buddy, the thought makes my baby gravy quiver..
Bahaha
The motor swap is coming along nicely. Another great video 👍
Thanks for tuning in!
Thank you guys for all the helpful information on my soon to be ls swap 78 square body short bed! Subbed and liked. Can’t wait for the next video
Thanks, Jason! Appreciate you doing the UBT Community. We like to have a little fun here.
I need to build me a set of those stands..!
👍🏼👍🏼
Yeah, they're trick.
ADAM HENSON I was gonna ask where he got them. I guess they’re simple enough. eBay would be simpler though.
ADAM HENSON i just cut 2x4 in 16” sections and built them up. Had them for a few years now
Two Trucks Ron
Sounds like a plan man..👍🏼
Truck is looking good...nice build bro..💪💯
I’ve broke two head bolts so that’s always fun. But I’m about to the motor in and mock it up! Just finished swapping in a aeromotive 340 stealth pump into a new saddle tank! Keep up the good work!
Heck yeah, Evan. And bummer on the head bolts. I know exhaust manifold bolts are common failures on these motors but not head bolts. good luck with those!
Whitlock Garage oh yeah I had a exhaust bolt break as well! But thank goodness I was able to get them all out! Getting a little help from a guy in Arkansas to have the truck all wrapped up by the end of July hopefully!
Sweet! That's so cool, man. Can't wait to see the truck.
Great video and interesting tricks to help others out. TTR and pecos coming togther soon
Yes sir! TTR knows all sorts of little tricks to help you out.
I probably would have dented the tank for clearance. Great video though guys!
We actually ended up doing that. Worked out real well.
I put a rebuilt 400/400 from a 78 Firebird in my 82 c10.
Very cool!
Mine is still waiting patiently 😉
Thanks for the likes brothers, hopefully one day y’all be able to see it on this channel..👍🏼
every issue possible especially jegs sending me the wrong stuff great video bro !!
Yikes. Happens to the best of us.
That's interesting never thought about what would be involved priming an oil pump in an LS. I'm used to using a drill through the distributor hole method on a small block.
Yeah, I wasn't aware of it either, bc I typically just drop a junkyard motor in and go, but since he semi-built this one and had it all apart, he's taking all the precautions.
I have 87 showt bed 2 wheel I did 5.3 4l60e and used dirty dingo adjustable motor mounts stock motor mounts and stock trans cross members and used 85 4 door caprice drive shaft and it has 6 inch drop in the back fuel lines will be nice I utilized the stock fuel lines from the tahoe seeing those lines makes want to change the set up
Sweet! Sounds like you have a good grasp on it.
I Love Your Channel, I have been putting together a 79 square body, and put in a nice to Gas Tank on the Drivers side, "duel tanks" and began putting in the fuel.. WHATS that smell.. a damn crack in the bottom of the tank! There really NO fun to take out once you have set the cab on.. OMG.. but hey its a chevy!! I will deal with it!!
Yeah, that seems rough! glad you're not giving up on it though.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS Never give up on the GM goodies!! , Learn and Learn again man!! lol
These videos will make great reference when I finally pick up a SQRBDY! Thanks Robbie and Ron!
I hope so! You need a SQRBDY.
5:37 dat puppers said hold on this finna be good
haha!
I normally throw blue painters tape on cuts with a lil piece scott’s shop towel to absorb the blood 😏 lol
Now that's fancy :)
Wicked C10 i can’t afford shop towels. That cuts into c10 and beer money 😂💰💰
Two Trucks Ron i thought it was a good idea to go to costco and by a 8 pack of shop towels, that was a year ago lol 🤦🏻♂️. Gotta use them for something lol
Very cool, i was taught to pull yoke from trans out 1 1/2 then measure like you said, but could be due to driveshaft shop aswell, either very awesome video!!!! Gona be a sweet ride......i have a 86 c10 short....used to be a v6 swapped in a 305 ho....
That's what i've done on my other trucks but I think the driveshaft shop is implementing a new process to eliminate user errors. And thank you!
😮!!! 10 grand is right around the corner!!! Your hard work is paying off!!! 😎✊🏾
Thanks for tuning in! We're having a lot of fun.
I thought with the tejas mounts you didn’t have to modify the frame for the a/c
Those fuel tanks can be a pain. Also, I thought he was gonna say that grease makes the best bandaid 😂.
That would've been a hard no. haha
When you sliced your arm open I out loud said medic !!! Wife is looking at me funny now
haha i needed one. Still have the scar!
Robbie , it's only blood, you have plenty more , Lol. Those saddle tanks can be a pain , especially going back in .
haha you know it!
OEM 87 R10 tank, sender unit, and Walbro 255 in tank pump are so easy to fit! :)
Yup. We knew it was an option but this is the route we wanted to go. Not much difference at all actually.
That’s a good looking cutlass at the drive shaft shop
haha thought somebody would notice that
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I purchased this kit to also swap my 84 c10. You have your pump assembly backwards.
Thanks for chiming in, but you can run the pump at any orientation, the ledge is still there.
Add a blazer tank in the back
Don't need one. Has a saddle tank right there under the bed.
I just finished a 6.0/80e in an 84, and thought I'd share another tank option, I used a '87 factory replacement tank, and sender, and just stuck a walbro 255 on the sender and good to go. '87 squarebodys had tbi, so it's a straight bolt in, and the factory fuel gauge works too. Mabye alittle more budget friendly, Just thought I'd share!
Thanks for sharing. We were aware of this option but Ron wanted to go this route and its been a proven set-up for a lot of the guys who do LS squarebody swaps around here.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS 10/4, hey man, the more info out there to all help eachother, the better! Enjoying the content👍
@@twoten7697 No doubt about it! A thousand ways to skin cat but I like knowing all the options. Thanks for tuning in!
Great video!! From McDonough GA!!!
Thanks, man! Love this state.
Awesome progress guy's! And ouch on the cut. I would use a file to get rid of that edge so it doesn't cut anyone else. Great footage and love this type of videos✊😎
man, it's crazy how it is the smallest amount of fresh metal that doesn't even look sharp.
I love the square bodies. I have an ‘82.
I love them to I have an 85
Dam that front driver side wheel is bent to hail
Yup. Got fixed
Idk why I had issues with motor mount adapters to put a LS engine in a 90s OBS I actually ended up using adapters for a 85 and also cut the ears on the mounts like u guys had to wiggle the engine and pry bar it a little to make bolts go in
Always something! How has your motor held up without the ears on the motor mount bushings?
Marriata dinner is one of my favorite places when ever I went to Alanta to see my my mom
Yup, good place to eat
GMT400 (88-98) tank mount is SO much easier. Two straps, and done. Sorry for the cut, but that's how you know your working right.. ya gotta drawl blood.
haha yes sir!
Starting to take shape Pacos is going to run like a scalded dog I did a 68 inline swap in my 81 C 10
Yes sir!
My man! That's my favorite kind of beer. The green dos equis is good with line but that stuff is amazing just by itself
No doubt about it! That's what TTR had in the fridge so i drank it.
Love the vids. Great info. Thanks for following me on IG as well. My gold ‘68 C10 is coming along. Posted new pics today. Looking forward to taking it to C10s in the Park in Waxahachie TX. You guys need to come in for that event in September.
Thanks for tuning in here! Your gold '68 is sweet. And we're considering coming out. Honestly we like to drive places and it takes some additional planning to get out there. We shall see!
Looks like you guys are coming along with the truck. Had no clue you guys are in my neck of the woods. Thought that American Driveshaft sounded familiar lol
Yeah, man. Ron lives in Gainesville and i live in Marietta.
Whitlock Garage Cool I’ll have to keep that in mind. I’m in Marietta also
Just a battle scar bro. Every car guru has to have those.
Hahahah..That serious... watching this and got 3m tape on my finger..ahhahaha ..Good times. Keep sharing...
bahahaha you gotta show it all
Hey Robbie y’all ever heard of A Gear Head 4 Life he’s got a TH-cam channel with lots of LS Swapping info man as always brother awesome content bro ! That Ron is on knowledgeable SOB .. I tell you what ! Believe you me ...
I’m from Texas man sorry bud
haha he is for sure! And I'll have to check out the AG4L channel. This isn't our first rodeo but it's never as easy as I remember it. No matter how much you plan, it never works out perfectly.
looking forward to this !
It's probably not what you expect. A little more nitty gritty down and dirty swap stuff.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS thats the best stuff
Moving right along, thanks for the video!
Yes sir! More coming soon
I have a 83 Chevy Silverado BTW. Thanks.
GM recalled those trucks to relocate the gas tanks inside the rails, i guess yours never made it to the Dealer, or the year wasnt right
I guess more of a question for Ron... That relief in the frame for the AC unit... Still structurally sound, or should a brace be made for the outside of the frame?
Still structurally sound.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS 👍
Love this project series
Thank you! We're having a blast bringing it to you.
Great video. Coming along great.
Thank you! We're getting there.
👌 great work!
Thank you!
For people measuring your driveshaft for the first time, measure with the vehicle's suspension loaded, aka vehicle on the ground, and if you aren't just driving around on flat terrain and you plan on off-roading or otherwise launching your vehicle it would behoove you to measure unloaded. Also going from stock suspension with like a TH350 trans and then raising the vehicle up and swapping in a 4L80E could change the driveline geometry tremendously and may necessitate a yoke eliminator with a slip spline/slip yoke or CV driveshaft etc.
Yup
I just came across you site and it has helped me tremendously with my 6.2/6L80E swap. I was wondering if I could pick your guys brain on some wiring.
Awesome! Shoot us an email unitedbytrucks@gmail.com. I'll do my best bc wiring is not my strong suit.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS thank you for responding, I'm trying to figure out what wires do what on my bulkhead. I have a 83 Silverado that had a 305/700r4. Thanks!
Great video. Trying to find the part number you flashed for the throttle cable change out. Swapping a lq4 into an 80 c30
great info guys, thanks much!!
Our pleasure!
I have the same Tanks inc. setup, shit is nice but expensive!
No doubt!
imo seems like having the fuel pump outside the tank is easier…esp if it goes out 🤷🏽♂️
Using a $600 torque wrench in a $6 chair.......surprised TTR can get pants on with cajones like that! Lol. My dad loves those chairs. I end up picking them out of my over the limit tail end
What is the website TTR referenced when he was talking about priming the oil pump? I tried several times but couldn’t make it out.
He's a dang nut! So funny. He was referring to Telling (brand of oil pump used) for the priming instructions.
my 87 Sierra has the exact brown/ tan paint scheme. Fuck and yes
haha awesome
Nice work! Yayyyy for ga square body’s.
How did he get that patina paint so shiny like that?? I didn’t know I loved brown squares until right now!
Dude. It hit me that way too. This truck has been 3 stage buffed with a Torqx orbital buffer. Not all squares, especially the mid 80s ones, will buff out like this, but this one is the best I've seen. Gotta start with good original paint.
Andrew Clayton meguairs 105 then 205 followed by Adams polishes buttery wax 💰💰
it aint a real build if you don't draw a little blood! LOL nice job again fellas!
haha well we've got that covered.
@@UNITEDBYTRUCKS I'm not doing an LS swap on my 84, but these two vid have helped me figure out a few things! Thanks for all the work man. when you get a chance check mine out and let me know what ya'll think
@@4MATAStudio That's the point, ben. There's a million ways to do all of this stuff, and we're honestly just out here having fun, but I'm glad we can be of help. Good luck with that '84. They're special.
Best bandaid in the shop is super glue fellas
Not a bad idea
Stings like a bitch though!
Silicon will attack rubber
Wayne Brogdon I’ve done that in multiple trucks I’ve owned without any issues.
Techtip lick your finger before you wipe the glue off the thing you put glue on help the glue not stick to your finger
Not exactly sure what part you're referring to, but yeah that seems to make sense. :)
I thought if you used Tejas motor mounts you didn't have to notch for the A/C compressor?
Not what happened in our case, but could be on other trucks
Throwing a lot at you here to help with your Fitting Issues and lines of any connection Mastercool sells a tool that makes a flare of any type Quick Connect GM, Ford, a n, also does standard flares also done some stainless lines kind of hard on it but it did the job and many more and it's hydraulic handheld hand pump it's awesome look it up you'll love it comes with like 10 different sets of dies to begin and probably I'm guessing a hundred more sets of different kinds whatever you want to get with it and it's not very pricey for the dies but the initial cost of the tool I think it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 300 with ten sets of dies I believe, bought my first snap on found out later that Napa carries them might be able to find them online
Cool. We're using flexible fuel hose and AN pushloks on this set-up.
Work with it guys!!
bahahaha
Love your videos, but the carvanna ads every 3 minutes are enough to drive you mad! LOL
Apologies for that. I have no control over the frequency, however, I do monetize my videos because it enables me to continue to buy parts, trucks, and gear to create the content. Thanks for tuning in and bearing with it.
Just finally got my 86 Sierra Classic back from the guy who was "fixing it" for me. Naturally he did nothing but spend my money. So my new mechanic is LS swapping it this week and I'm planning on doing a street rod setup for it. I love that gas tank setup also. Do they have any setups for the dual tank trucks? I have two and I absolutely wanna keep both.
So quick question on driveshaft, between a Tahoe and suburban are they the same length? I would think it's better to cut it than to add to it, or maybe even one from a long bed truck.
Not sure, but yes, I'd rather cut one than add to it, though they're added to everyday. No biggie.
Great video...😎 👍 👊
Thanks, jamey!
Thanks for the video. Been watching a lot of LS videos getting ready for my own build. I'm curious about the use of what looks like standard RTV silicone around the knock sensors, though. Will that stand up to the heat? I'd have thought a more heat resistant gasket maker like the Permatex red would be used for that.
Thanks, TommyGun! I think theres probably a thousand ways to do it, but yeah a gasket maker like permeated would likely hold better/last longer, however, this is what we had at the time, and we believe this is better than nothing and will certainly achieve our goals.
Thanks fort he response. I understand completely. Get 'er done with what's on hand and keep moving forward. Good luck and looking forward to the rest of the build. Cheers.
Why didn't y'all just take the fuel pump out and then run the fittings and put the pump back in or were the fittings hitting the pump housing?
Thought about that but it would still make it impossible to put the female AN fitting on the actual pump fitting. That lip is in the way all around the edge of the pump. Trust me, we tried everything.
What is the purpose in using the Corvette fuel regulator and changing the fuel rail?
Mike Lewellen it’s a compact unit. It has a filter inside of it. Instead of having a regulator and then a filter along the rail you just have the corvette regulator. Their inexpensive and just as easy to replace as any other gm fuel filter 💰💰
and in a returnless style fuel system(which means no return line at fuel rail) it cleans things up and puts everything toward the tank instead of near the motor.
Yo that tape was waayyyy to tighhhhht 😂
haha did what I had to do
Did that silicone smell like vinegar? If so pull it and change to one that is sensor safe. I made that mistake and I had all kinds of corrosion.
Nope.
Cheap Charlies! That thirty-five year old rubber fill hose will betray you.
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Nothing cheap about it.
It's thirty-five years old. It's rubber. Way past design service life. Just because you can't see cracks doesn't mean they are not there.
Awesome work guys, I'm following you're build as I do mine. But I have a question about the fuel delivery. Have you guys looked into the holley direct fit replacement intank pump? I'm kinda leaning towards that for myself and wanted to know what yall think about it.
Hey, Eduardo! Very cool. We actually weren't aware of it until after we'd settled on this approach. That said, I've heard nothing but good things about it. I'd go for it for sure.
Ok cool thanks guys
@@eduardopakinganjr1458 got a part number for that holly intank pump? thanks!
12-308
love the videos. im currently building 3 c10s. i would love to get with you i have a truck you would really like. 72 c10 georgia tech maintenance truck. 7100 actual miles.. super original except lowered.
Thanks, Aaron! Be happy to take a look at the GA Tech truck. Shoot me some info and details at unitedbytrucks@gmail.com
Would think that notch would weaking the frame
It's called electrical tape and napkin. but anyhow that's how I took my tank down. that's the easiest way for brackets and all. better
Yup agree.