So, to reduce the water pressure (from 105 to 80), we turn the screws counterclock, correct? I have the NR3XL 15-75. Does that mean that if the water from the city comes at 130 this one can't reduce it beyond to after 75? Do I need a bigger PRV i.e 130? If there's another faucet open, the presure come down to like 40. But if I only open one bib it says 105. Am I missing something here.
In my plumbing inspection report it says that the cause of the low water pressure in the house in a faulty 3/4" PRV (pressure reducing valve). The report says it has to be replaced and that it is located in an irrigation box outside the house. Will I need a shovel to get to that? How do I make sure I don't cause an explosion of water while replacing it? Is the process the same whether the valve is outdoors or indoors (as yours is in the video)?
My NR3XL started leaking from the bell housing's top bolt, just small drops will form at the tip where the pressure bolt and drop down (it's installed vertically). I'm thinking about replacing the whole piece, house was built in 2011 so i'm assuming it's the same PRV from when the house was first built. Would it be better to remove the bell housing and replace the screen or just buy an entire new NR3XL?
Thanks
Thank you! The best step-by-step video!!! Very helpful!
Really appreciate this video. Just did this exact replacement and went exactly as your video. Had the same screen in the old NR3 as well. Thanks!
Great video, thank you! Very thorough and helpful.
super right to the point
You da man🎉
The wrench (2inch, 2:47 mark) looks great. It has a long handle for torque. Where did you get this wrench?
Why replace the entire valve when you could just replace the internal cartridge at a fraction of the cost?
When you shut off the water, did you have to do anything to the hot water tank
Nice video. Do you have a hot water expansion tank? If so, don't you have to calibrate it now to match the new pressure?
Yes. Usually system pressure -2 is what many manufacturers recommend
So, to reduce the water pressure (from 105 to 80), we turn the screws counterclock, correct?
I have the NR3XL 15-75. Does that mean that if the water from the city comes at 130 this one can't reduce it beyond to after 75? Do I need a bigger PRV i.e 130?
If there's another faucet open, the presure come down to like 40. But if I only open one bib it says 105. Am I missing something here.
In my plumbing inspection report it says that the cause of the low water pressure in the house in a faulty 3/4" PRV (pressure reducing valve). The report says it has to be replaced and that it is located in an irrigation box outside the house. Will I need a shovel to get to that? How do I make sure I don't cause an explosion of water while replacing it? Is the process the same whether the valve is outdoors or indoors (as yours is in the video)?
If it's a Wilkins Zurn PRV, they sell rebuild kits for them. Just shut off the water, unscrew the black cap and replace the guts with the new ones.
My NR3XL started leaking from the bell housing's top bolt, just small drops will form at the tip where the pressure bolt and drop down (it's installed vertically). I'm thinking about replacing the whole piece, house was built in 2011 so i'm assuming it's the same PRV from when the house was first built. Would it be better to remove the bell housing and replace the screen or just buy an entire new NR3XL?
Mine was from 2005. I'd get the whole thing.
Why no teflon tape or pipe dope?
Not needed for compression fitting. The gasket provides the seal.
The rubber seals take the place of tape or dope.