Typical domestic water pressure is 45-50 PSI. You can set it to whatever you want but higher pressure just wastes water and puts more stress on your pipes and appliances. Maximum permitted by code is 75 and most municipalities will easily exceed that in off hours during idle periods in the early morning. If you're having a volume problem and everything else is fine that would point to the pipe size being inadequate. A lot of new homes are being built with 1" main supply piping. Typically, with a 20 psi falloff (when you open a faucet) you won't notice a difference between 55 psi and 75 psi. It's very small.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to attempt the same repair today. I did notice an electrical line right next to your plumbing. I would suggest that circuit be switched off before doing any plumbing in that area.
Thank you for the safety tip. I would like to say that I did isolate that circuit ... but I did not. Lucky for me, the insulation on that wire was good. Good luck on your repair.
Thank you for your comment. I should have mentioned that I got mine from an online company called zoro.com. I had bought something from them before, and they were the lowest cost of all the other companies that came up after searching, on the internet, for the same model that I had. Your pressure regulator valve should have some identifying markings on it that you could search and be able to find the kit for.
@@DK-pr9ny I didn't want to post a part number because there are so many different pressure regulators. I would suggest finding the number on your regulator and searching the internet to find the exact one to replace it with. Thank you for the question.
A pressure reducing valve (PRV) is a variable friction loss device. To have friction loss the fluid needs flow. Unless the valve seats perfectly the downstream pressure is going to equalize to the upstream pressure. Once the downstream pressure is relieved (opening a valve) the PRV will open allowing the upstream pressure to compensate for the loss of downstream pressure to the spring set setpoint. The point is: to check the PRV setpoint a small flow is needed in the downstream. In most cases there is likely a dripping faucet or some other flow that will overcome the seat leakage but to be safe, crack a faucet open downstream to be sure the system is not hydraulically locked. Good video . Helped me prepare to do mine.
Several months on, how has the repair held up? I just cleaned a bunch of that dirt/silt out of my PRV and while it did help at first, the problem seems to be creeping back. I wonder if it’s just an exercise I’ll need to repeat because either I didn’t flush enough out, or the source of the contamination is unresolved
My repair is holding up as good as new. I think a bunch of mud and grit got in the pipe when I replaced a leaking section of the main water supply line. I tried to keep everything clean, but it was in a muddy hole. I don't have any filter on my supply line, so that may be something that could help. I think the mineral content of your water could be a problem as well. My sister has well water and she gets a bunch of mineral build up in her hot water heater. So your "contamination" may just be natural occurring contents of the water. Good luck.
Couple of things. 1) Your water pressure doesn't need to be 75 psi. 60-ish is perfectly fine. 50-ish should suffice in most houses. And 2) You don't squeeze a bunch silicone all over the cartridge like that. That just makes a hot mess inside the valve that is going to get clogged with debris. The o-rings just have to to be coated with silicone... so, just a drop or so on them, rubbed all around, is just fine. Oh, and 3) that "special wrench" that would have made the job easier is just a Crescent wrench... nothing fancy or unique.
Spot on 100%. PSI 55 fine for cold, and that SILICONE lubricant is to be used very sparingly. Sheesh. I would say this is a good video to see how to and not to do the work. Call it a first pass look as to what to expect on rebuild.
He was more scared of me than I was of him. You should check out the one that got in my canoe at about 3:28 on this video: th-cam.com/video/J36OqAnDkBs/w-d-xo.html and spoiler alert: a fish almost ate him.
Back it down to 45-50 psi. Do not set 'yours' that high. And a small application of the SILCONE lubricant is all that is needed. So this is a only good visual of what you can expect to do.
In the case of some of those cheap valves that may be so. In many cases like with the Conbraco/Apollo valves it's damn near impossible to get a kit. Almost like they WANT you to buy a new one. And their valves are $200-$300 depending on size for the 'cheapened' ones with the plastic top bell cap. For 3/4" and under you can get a replacement Watts or Zurn for under $100. The problem is breaking the connections to install it. If they're sweat joints or Propress'd PVC it's beyond most DIY'ers scope.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! My PRV is dripping. You probably just saved me a $350 plumber bill. God bless you, Charles.
Thank you for your thanks.
Nicely done, simple and straight forward!
Thank you.
Typical domestic water pressure is 45-50 PSI. You can set it to whatever you want but higher pressure just wastes water and puts more stress on your pipes and appliances. Maximum permitted by code is 75 and most municipalities will easily exceed that in off hours during idle periods in the early morning. If you're having a volume problem and everything else is fine that would point to the pipe size being inadequate. A lot of new homes are being built with 1" main supply piping. Typically, with a 20 psi falloff (when you open a faucet) you won't notice a difference between 55 psi and 75 psi. It's very small.
Nice how they run that power line right in your way
Water right next to electricity. What could go wrong?
Thanks for the video man . I really thought it was gonna cost me an arm and a leg but you save me some money.
Thank you for your comment. One of the reasons I fix stuff myself, is the cost savings. I am glad I could pass some knowledge on to you.
Nice video, I replaced this valve and it was super easy thanks to all the info here.
Thanks for the video. I'm going to attempt the same repair today. I did notice an electrical line right next to your plumbing. I would suggest that circuit be switched off before doing any plumbing in that area.
Thank you for the safety tip. I would like to say that I did isolate that circuit ... but I did not. Lucky for me, the insulation on that wire was good. Good luck on your repair.
You did a nice job on the video. Exactly what I needed to see. Thank you.
Thank you for your comment.
Excellent video. Concise and clear. Thanks
Great video! but where to buy that rebuild kit?
Thank you for your comment. I should have mentioned that I got mine from an online company called zoro.com. I had bought something from them before, and they were the lowest cost of all the other companies that came up after searching, on the internet, for the same model that I had. Your pressure regulator valve should have some identifying markings on it that you could search and be able to find the kit for.
@@CHARLESCRANFORDpart number?
@@DK-pr9ny I didn't want to post a part number because there are so many different pressure regulators. I would suggest finding the number on your regulator and searching the internet to find the exact one to replace it with. Thank you for the question.
A pressure reducing valve (PRV) is a variable friction loss device. To have friction loss the fluid needs flow. Unless the valve seats perfectly the downstream pressure is going to equalize to the upstream pressure. Once the downstream pressure is relieved (opening a valve) the PRV will open allowing the upstream pressure to compensate for the loss of downstream pressure to the spring set setpoint.
The point is: to check the PRV setpoint a small flow is needed in the downstream. In most cases there is likely a dripping faucet or some other flow that will overcome the seat leakage but to be safe, crack a faucet open downstream to be sure the system is not hydraulically locked.
Good video . Helped me prepare to do mine.
PSI should be 30-60. WOW, you cross threaded the right inlet union on the PRV.
Several months on, how has the repair held up? I just cleaned a bunch of that dirt/silt out of my PRV and while it did help at first, the problem seems to be creeping back. I wonder if it’s just an exercise I’ll need to repeat because either I didn’t flush enough out, or the source of the contamination is unresolved
My repair is holding up as good as new. I think a bunch of mud and grit got in the pipe when I replaced a leaking section of the main water supply line. I tried to keep everything clean, but it was in a muddy hole. I don't have any filter on my supply line, so that may be something that could help. I think the mineral content of your water could be a problem as well. My sister has well water and she gets a bunch of mineral build up in her hot water heater. So your "contamination" may just be natural occurring contents of the water. Good luck.
Woooooo, I did It! Thanks Man
Thank you for the thanks and congratulations on replacing yours yourself.
Couple of things. 1) Your water pressure doesn't need to be 75 psi. 60-ish is perfectly fine. 50-ish should suffice in most houses. And 2) You don't squeeze a bunch silicone all over the cartridge like that. That just makes a hot mess inside the valve that is going to get clogged with debris. The o-rings just have to to be coated with silicone... so, just a drop or so on them, rubbed all around, is just fine. Oh, and 3) that "special wrench" that would have made the job easier is just a Crescent wrench... nothing fancy or unique.
Spot on 100%. PSI 55 fine for cold, and that SILICONE lubricant is to be used very sparingly. Sheesh. I would say this is a good video to see how to and not to do the work. Call it a first pass look as to what to expect on rebuild.
thanks for making this video 👍
You are welcome. Thank you for your thanks.
pretty cool thanks
I need to do a 1.25" rebuild or replace. I think ill rebuild looks easy.
Thank you for your comment. It is easy.
That's a big ass spider @ 1:25 😂 scared me
He was more scared of me than I was of him. You should check out the one that got in my canoe at about 3:28 on this video: th-cam.com/video/J36OqAnDkBs/w-d-xo.html and spoiler alert: a fish almost ate him.
Back it down to 45-50 psi. Do not set 'yours' that high. And a small application of the SILCONE lubricant is all that is needed. So this is a only good visual of what you can expect to do.
👌👌
In my experiences, it's easier just to replace the whole valve
It could be easy, but rebuilding it was easy rebuilding it. Thank you for your comment.
And way more expensive
In the case of some of those cheap valves that may be so. In many cases like with the Conbraco/Apollo valves it's damn near impossible to get a kit. Almost like they WANT you to buy a new one. And their valves are $200-$300 depending on size for the 'cheapened' ones with the plastic top bell cap. For 3/4" and under you can get a replacement Watts or Zurn for under $100. The problem is breaking the connections to install it. If they're sweat joints or Propress'd PVC it's beyond most DIY'ers scope.
Hope you and your family DON'T drink that water. OMG man.....