I was just about ready to solder my 1/2" Cu Ball Valve, but stopped and said to myself "Do a quick reminder of the best practices by listening to your fav CA plumber on TH-cam". Glad I did! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
I am so glad that you opened up the solder joints for us to see what the coverage was it was very enlightening. A lot of instructors would not waste their time but you my friend go the extra mile for your students. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
You cannot call yourself a master, unless you’re willing to say that there’s always something more to learn. We learn until we die. Ive been in this industry for almost 10 years now, and it wouldn’t matter if it were 100 years. I am always looking to improve my work, so big shout out to you brother. Keep up the good work, your videos are solid!
Great tutorial videos - thank you very much! I'm a DIY-er, but have limited experience in plumbing. Thanks to your instruction, I completed a plumbing modification with 34 sweat joints and 2 new isolation valves - no leaks, and no damage to the valve seats. Couldn't have done it without your excellent guidance.
*Your channel delivers.* After trying to watch a few other pipe-soldering videos, I keep coming back here and shaking my head at how awful they all are! This content is super-helpful. Thanks ;)
The technique you used in this video are exactly the the way i have been soldering for 35 years , it's more or less common sense . I have never burnt a valve up due to improper heat position ! But glad you've put it out there for others to see !
Good job. I’ve always heated my pipe first, even on regular copper fittings because that will prevent overheating of the fittings and actually makes the process quicker.
You are the Man! I’m a retired old school son of a plumber and had a torch in my hand before I could ride a bike. I help out family on the usual home plumbing and these values have been driving me crazy with leaks. I changed out my flux and solder, used your technique and bam! No leaks. Thanks so much, glad I came across your channel. Keep up the good work.
I’ve also watched many soldering videos and yours are by far the best. Thorough, but not too much information. Just the right amount. There really is not substitute for experience, and since I only solder with occasional problems or new water heater installation, I have to review every time I have a new project. Someone with no experience should practice a few times on cheapest fittings they can find and be prepared to fail a time or two with valves before you get it right. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Outstanding - got it. I appreciate learning about the lower temp 410F solder and torching away from the valve center. TH-cam video is just what the doctor ordered; live and learn all the time.
I am replacing my traditional hot water heater with a tankless hot water heater. I have to replace some of the 3/4 inch copper pipes and adding two new valves. I have watched so many of your videos and they are the best on TH-cam. Thank you so much my friend and keep up the good work. I liked and subbed so I don't miss out on future videos.
Thank you for this and all your videos! This hits the nail on the head of what my problem was with these valves. Run 80 ft of copper, stop counting at, 70 joints only leaks at these dumb valves. The irony is I put the valves in in case I got a leak in the other plumbing. Converting bedroom in 55 year old house into full master bath, 7 fixtures. Thanks again for your videos, you are the, Coppergod!
Your videos are always straight to the point and concise. And the demonstrational cut of the fittings to show the solder coverage was extremely helpful. Thank you for going the extra mile!
Installing a water softener and just checking some vids to refresh me as I am a DIYer and I must say this presentation was concise and thorough with no filler! Great stuff. Subbed and liked!
Your videos are simply the best out there. I am about to solder 3 ball valves for whole house filter. I am glad I found this as now I will buy the Sterling solder. I already switched to tinning solder a while back and love it. Interesting some of these ball valves have no packing nut anymore.
just used this technique this weekend on a rerouting of hot and cold, put in the shut offs using your method and worked flawless. You saved me time and headache. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. Best instruction on you tube for sure.
Excellent presentation. A plumbing pipe industry tutorial on soldering lead-free fittings suggested another best practice is following the solder around the joint with the torch flame to ensure better flow and coverage. Hard to do near a wall stud! I had six leaks on a half dozen soldered copper fittings installing new water supply pipes! Yes, I am a carpenter.
I am glad I searched your videos and found this. My house was built in 1962 and has the old shut offs with the handle the same as outdoor faucets and do not shut off properly plus some of them leak through the seal on the shaft when turned on or off. Thanks for another great video.
Excellent instruction as always! I'm amazed that you soldered with the handle cover on - I fried one once years ago (first time, overheating like a greenhorn) and now I always remove them before sweating. Once bitten, twice shy! Thanks again!
I just replaced all of the galvanized plumbing in my house with copper last week. Thanks for all of your tips. I had a couple leaks (didn’t get full coverage in the joints) but I knew why and how to fix them thanks to your videos.
THANK YOU!!! I had tried to solder the valve two times before finding your video. The big thing that helped was the low temp solder and flux with solder. Also the angle of your torch is a great tip. So far my join does not have a leak.
Thank you so much for all these videos. Soldered some joints for the first time today. Took out a stubout, added a cap and a copper to PEX adapter. Pressurized to see exactly where it had a pinhole leak. Wanted to inspect and think there are several ares of horizontal sections that need or be repaired.
Awesome video - I am just a DIY person & these valves were a challenge to solder. By accident I managed to use the steps you recommended except I did not think of using the low heat flux. I will make sure to get some for next time.
I wish I saw this video before installing my water heater. I had a swing check valve that leaked. I couldn't figure out why is was so much more difficult to solder then the standard joints. I really appreciate your quick and to the point vids.
Wow thanks for sharing dude! You're a good educator because you don't just say do it because i said so like some tradesmen. I appreciate your thoroughness.
Nice solder coverage at the end. Many times I have taken apart fittings that were done by someone else and upon looking at the solder I find that it was only connected in a thin small strip. Sometimes when I do my own I pre- tin as much as possible to insure it is thoroughly soldered. I need to try some of the ways you use. You got it down good.
This was a fantastic video and extremely informative. I really liked your 'exploded' cut-away sectionals of the pipe and valve portions showing coverage within the connection.
I certainly learned more than I thought I would. Great video for all home owner diy'ers. Products and techniques change in the wink of an eye. What was a common procedure from 'your' last plumbing repair/install from as little as 6 months ago, can be outdated and even substandard today.
Great, thanks, especially about your comments about the valve seal and the initial heating of the copper pipe & the positioning of the torch (and damp cloth wrap tip); thereafter, so as to not compromise the plastic seal.
Very interesting and thanks for sharing such a good video. Your video is so convincing that I never stop myself from saying something about it. You’re doing a great job. Keep it up.
You always do a good Job with your videos I've learn alot but theres some stuff like soldering i wish i could actually do with someone teaching like you said it takes time.
So Julio, today I was in the shop and I came up with an experiment that has yielded quantitative data that might be of interest. I pretty much follow your technique in soldering ball valves to the letter, with good success so far. I was curious as to what temperature this technique was exposing the valve bodies to, based on our other conversation regarding valve seats. So today I grabbed a couple of Apollo lead-free cast bronze 3/4" valves (77-CLF-A) and some 3/4" type M copper hard tubing, and started soldering with my trusty propane pencil torch (using straight propane), some Sterling Premium LF solder and #95 tinning flux. These valves are marketed as made of "EZ-Solder Lead Free Bronze" (containing bismuth) which is supposed to solder nearly identically to traditional alloys containing lead. After soldering each valve to my satisfaction using the preheat-pipe-first-then-heat-the-valve-cup method, I used a laboratory contact thermocouple and a Fluke digital temperature meter to measure the temperature of the valve body immediately after soldering. In each case, I did not use any cooling around the valve body (no wet rag, etc) and the valve body temperature did not exceed 350 degree Fahrenheit immediately after soldering. I'm very pleased to report, as per our previous thread exchange regarding the melting temperature of various valve seats. I try to stick with high quality ball valves from Apollo, Nibco, Milwaukee, etc and these typically have seats comprised of reinforced PTFE, whose melting temperature is around 620 degrees F. What this tells me is that for the 3/4" valves I tested, the method you recommend, when performed correctly with a conservative torch and fuel combination that does not produce excessive heat rapidly, appears to be well within the margin of safety for cast bronze LF valves (typically valve body temperatures not exceeding 500F), even without any valve body cooling applied (no wet rag). Keep in mind that some lead-free forged brass valve manufacturers (i.e. Apollo) recommend that LF forged brass valve body temperature should not exceed 300F during soldering, thus some method of keeping these valves cool (like a wet rag) would likely be a good idea since in both case my results exceeded that. Also, results may be different with other valves, such as Nibco, which use LF alloys containing silicon and have different thermal conductivity than alloys containing bismuth such as the ones I tested. Hope this information is useful.
Yes, this is why is SUPER important to read the manufacture directions on how to solder THEIR particular valves! Thanks again for all the great information Stiletto, it's fun to see you investigating this, love it!!!
This is a great video.I have had the misfortune of applying too much heat when soldering half inch ball valves and the result was that the ball valves blew out and I had to desolder the ball valve and start all over with a new half inch ball valve.Now to avoid blowing out half inch ball valves I use a torch with a pencil tube to ensure that I do not over heat the ball valves.Thank you for the video,God bless you and yours.
Thanks for the plumbing videos and illustrations. Lead free meaning no lead solder, pipe, and fittings are the only type to use on potable water lines!☺
I wish you had this video out last year. 🤣 It took me sooo long to get the joints to accept solder. Lots of reapplying flux and lots of gas wasted.(In reality it was only a few minutes. But when you're used to soldering copper only taking a few seconds, it seemed like hours!)
i am not a plumber but somehow i enjoy watching you content and learning plumbing knowledge which i am sure i will never use because i live in india where all pipes are 100%pvc.
I wish I watch this 2 weeks ago. I just changed out one of these ball valves and ran into a week at after I got done with it. I still need to go back and deal with it but I got my hands full out there that is far from the biggest problem. That's actually the smallest problem
I start with the connection that is opposite to the internal seal and then I use a wet rag to help lower the valve body temperature when welding the pipe closest to the internal seal.
Yeah lead is SOOOO much easier to work with, it just comes at a price (our health) and it's a good thing that companies are starting to make a move, thank you so much Viper6, passe une belle journee!!!
I might have learned something. A couple of years ago I replaced my shut off valve coming into the house. It is vertical. I made the top connection with no problem whatsoever but I never could get the bottom one to draw up into the valve. I gave up and used a shark bite to get the water back on. If the shark bite fails I will try your tips.
Will be changing my water shut off valve this week because I can't afford a plumber. I have some experience with plumbing so I hope it all goes smoothly 😃
Just make sure the valve is visible and accessible so that when the little O ring inside the SharkBite fitting that holds back the water eventually fails, you'll know about it before catastrophic flooding occurs in your home.
great video !! Where was this in 2014 When i was learning !!! i blew out many seals improper heating or over heating the valves !! $$ AWESOME VIDEO 100% RECOMMEND!
The biggest problem I've had with soldering ball valves is overheating the valve and damaging the seal so that it won't shut off completely. On one job, after I ruined the second valve, I said the heck with it and went with the Shark Bite. It worked fine, opens and closes completely and no leaks. I worry about 10 or 20 years down the road, but it solved my immediate problem.
I'm not confident in soldering ball valves, and I don't trust Sharkbites. My solution? Sweat a male adapter onto the copper pipe, and use a FPT ball valve.
Good video. I’ve done this many times myself, I like to brush flex on my joints after I soldered them and then wipe them clean with a cool rag. This makes my joints look more professional and cleaner. Just my preference though.
A tip for you (Got2Learn) to share! To easily repair a pinhole or small freeze split in a copper pipe. Drain the water out, as usual but don't cut the pipe. Then all you have to do is clean the surface of the pipe around the leak a few inches beyond both sides of the leak along the pipe. Using stranded bare copper wire, wrap the wire around the cleaned pipe, covering the pinhole or split like it's a copper bandaid. Then using flux flow solder over the copper wire and the pipe. The wire will give strength to the pipe over the leak and the solder will provide a water tight seal around the pipe and the leak. It's a way faster and easier than replacing a small section of pipe w/new. If you have what you need in your tool bag it takes minutes and you don't use any pipe or fittings. I trust you understood what I explained. Cheers
@@dido1803 Any "stranded wire" stripped down will do. 14 ga or 10ga. , the strands are the same there is more per foot with larger wire. Lamp cord or a window AC cord for an old appliance, just stranded scrap wire. Cut from something that was being thrown away will do. I do maintenance repairs/ handyman work, so I usually strip off the good parts from things I throw away. Like if I replace a ceiling fan I'll pull the 3 speed switch off and use it to repair a fan with a broken pull chain switch. It beats having to run to the store to buy a new one when needed I got one. cheers.
Sterling solder or other low temp solders are also great for soldering brass (not copper) fittings like drop ears, not just valves. Your videos have been really helpful for fixing stuff myself. I am in the USA, not Canada so I buy all my stuff from Ferguson.
When i solder plumbing joints, more so with horizontal joints, i tend to leave a little half drip under the joint. I use about a 1/4” to 3/4” extra solder per joint. Thanks for the tips on the LF valves.
Thought of a question: That low-temp solder is quite expensive. For risk-averse beginning DIY solderers like myself, would it be just as well to get a ball valve with female threads on each end, then screw them into copper pipes which I previously terminated with male thread fittings? This would keep heat well away from the valve. Thx.
40 year retired Union Plumber/Welding Inspector. Great video and beautifully soldered joints.
🤗🤗🤗
I was just about ready to solder my 1/2" Cu Ball Valve, but stopped and said to myself "Do a quick reminder of the best practices by listening to your fav CA plumber on TH-cam". Glad I did! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
You are most welcome 🙏
I am so glad that you opened up the solder joints for us to see what the coverage was it was very enlightening. A lot of instructors would not waste their time but you my friend go the extra mile for your students. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
You are most welcome Eugene!!! 🤗🤗🤗
You cannot call yourself a master, unless you’re willing to say that there’s always something more to learn. We learn until we die. Ive been in this industry for almost 10 years now, and it wouldn’t matter if it were 100 years. I am always looking to improve my work, so big shout out to you brother. Keep up the good work, your videos are solid!
🙏🙏🙏
Great tutorial videos - thank you very much! I'm a DIY-er, but have limited experience in plumbing. Thanks to your instruction, I completed a plumbing modification with 34 sweat joints and 2 new isolation valves - no leaks, and no damage to the valve seats. Couldn't have done it without your excellent guidance.
I've watched dozens of videos on this tonight, and yours is by far the best!! The animations are amazing!
Thanks Eric 😇😇😇
*Your channel delivers.* After trying to watch a few other pipe-soldering videos, I keep coming back here and shaking my head at how awful they all are! This content is super-helpful. Thanks ;)
😇😇😇
Agreed, the other vids were pretty bad compared to this one.
@dustman96 😇👍
The technique you used in this video are exactly the the way i have been soldering for 35 years , it's more or less common sense . I have never burnt a valve up due to improper heat position ! But glad you've put it out there for others to see !
Thank you sooo much Kenneth!!
Common sense isn’t that common anymore…
Dude, if you keep going like this I believe you're heading to become the ... PREMIER PLUMBING CHANNEL on YT. I'm loving your animation work.
😃😃😃😃😃 I have no intent on stawwping, that would be crazyyyyyy!!!! Thank you so much!!!
Whats up against any producer here is the busted TH-cam AL, it there to smack you down if you get too big
Stop it. You’re too good!
Good job. I’ve always heated my pipe first, even on regular copper fittings because that will prevent overheating of the fittings and actually makes the process quicker.
You are the Man! I’m a retired old school son of a plumber and had a torch in my hand before I could ride a bike. I help out family on the usual home plumbing and these values have been driving me crazy with leaks. I changed out my flux and solder, used your technique and bam! No leaks. Thanks so much, glad I came across your channel. Keep up the good work.
Awesomeeee, thank you so so much!!!
Great endorsement!!
I’ve also watched many soldering videos and yours are by far the best. Thorough, but not too much information. Just the right amount. There really is not substitute for experience, and since I only solder with occasional problems or new water heater installation, I have to review every time I have a new project. Someone with no experience should practice a few times on cheapest fittings they can find and be prepared to fail a time or two with valves before you get it right. Thanks for the excellent videos!
Outstanding - got it. I appreciate learning about the lower temp 410F solder and torching away from the valve center. TH-cam video is just what the doctor ordered; live and learn all the time.
👌👌👌
I am replacing my traditional hot water heater with a tankless hot water heater. I have to replace some of the 3/4 inch copper pipes and adding two new valves. I have watched so many of your videos and they are the best on TH-cam. Thank you so much my friend and keep up the good work. I liked and subbed so I don't miss out on future videos.
Awesomeeee, good luck on the swap 🤜🤛
Thank you for this and all your videos! This hits the nail on the head of what my problem was with these valves. Run 80 ft of copper, stop counting at, 70 joints only leaks at these dumb valves. The irony is I put the valves in in case I got a leak in the other plumbing. Converting bedroom in 55 year old house into full master bath, 7 fixtures. Thanks again for your videos, you are the, Coppergod!
😇 thank you so much Chris!!!
Your videos are always straight to the point and concise. And the demonstrational cut of the fittings to show the solder coverage was extremely helpful. Thank you for going the extra mile!
This was fantastic. Rather than take any risk with the two Gate Valves I was about to install, I ordered more tinning flux and low temp solder.
Installing a water softener and just checking some vids to refresh me as I am a DIYer and I must say this presentation was concise and thorough with no filler! Great stuff. Subbed and liked!
Your videos are simply the best out there. I am about to solder 3 ball valves for whole house filter. I am glad I found this as now I will buy the Sterling solder. I already switched to tinning solder a while back and love it. Interesting some of these ball valves have no packing nut anymore.
🙏🙏
just used this technique this weekend on a rerouting of hot and cold, put in the shut offs using your method and worked flawless. You saved me time and headache. Appreciate you passing on your knowledge. Best instruction on you tube for sure.
Glad it helped, thank you so much for letting me know :)
Excellent presentation. A plumbing pipe industry tutorial on soldering lead-free fittings suggested another best practice is following the solder around the joint with the torch flame to ensure better flow and coverage. Hard to do near a wall stud! I had six leaks on a half dozen soldered copper fittings installing new water supply pipes! Yes, I am a carpenter.
Always more difficult doing so in a wall, cheers!!!
@Leopold no experience with that type of piping, but pretty sure it's soldered/brazed the same way.
I am glad I searched your videos and found this. My house was built in 1962 and has the old shut offs with the handle the same as outdoor faucets and do not shut off properly plus some of them leak through the seal on the shaft when turned on or off. Thanks for another great video.
Awesomeeee!!!
we used to cut the joints on the bias to check capillary flow. A thin silver line around the entire cut confirms a good joint. great video!
💯
Great video! Thanks for covering what to buy, and then showing the proper soldering technique, and what precautions to follow.
👌👌👌
40 year retired Union Plumber/Welding Inspector. Great video and beautifully soldered joints.
It looks easy but keep in mind guys that this take time to get good at, that dude KNOWS how to braze properly !
Thanks Etienne 😏
except he's not brazing. He's soldering
This is soft solder.
Yes this is not brazing, brazing is anything over 842°f.
Excellent instruction as always! I'm amazed that you soldered with the handle cover on - I fried one once years ago (first time, overheating like a greenhorn) and now I always remove them before sweating. Once bitten, twice shy! Thanks again!
You can put a copper pipe over the handle to protect it while soldering ;)
I just replaced all of the galvanized plumbing in my house with copper last week. Thanks for all of your tips. I had a couple leaks (didn’t get full coverage in the joints) but I knew why and how to fix them thanks to your videos.
That is awesome!
THANK YOU!!! I had tried to solder the valve two times before finding your video. The big thing that helped was the low temp solder and flux with solder. Also the angle of your torch is a great tip. So far my join does not have a leak.
Excellent!!!
Agree with all the positive comments. I wish I’d had you as a teacher decades ago when I started soldering pipes! Keep it up.
Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for all these videos. Soldered some joints for the first time today. Took out a stubout, added a cap and a copper to PEX adapter. Pressurized to see exactly where it had a pinhole leak. Wanted to inspect and think there are several ares of horizontal sections that need or be repaired.
Not the first time I’ve said this but it’s worth repeating; THANK YOU!!!!
You are most welcome!!!!!!
Great content! I have always felt that I didn't know how to solder. After watching this video I will have more faith in my work!. ❤ Thank you!
Awesome video - I am just a DIY person & these valves were a challenge to solder. By accident I managed to use the steps you recommended except I did not think of using the low heat flux. I will make sure to get some for next time.
☝👌👌👌
what a treat to see this pop up in the feed! always a ton of work you do on these and super informative. Toujours impressionnant et agréable.
Merci Thor, j'apprecie vraiment, passe une belle journee mon ami!!
From videos I’ve watched on this, yours is by far the best on every aspect. Excellent, my friend 👍🏼
🤘🤘🤘
I wish I saw this video before installing my water heater. I had a swing check valve that leaked. I couldn't figure out why is was so much more difficult to solder then the standard joints. I really appreciate your quick and to the point vids.
🤘🤘🤘
Just super grateful for vast wealth of plumbing knowledge! Thank you brother.
Good to see a video that’s not for complete amateurs
😉
Wow thanks for sharing dude! You're a good educator because you don't just say do it because i said so like some tradesmen. I appreciate your thoroughness.
🙏🙏🙏
Very good video. Animation is a kind of professional one. The explanation of kind of fluxes was very important
Glad you liked it!
Nice solder coverage at the end.
Many times I have taken apart fittings that were done by someone else and upon looking at the solder I find that it was only connected in a thin small strip. Sometimes when I do my own I pre- tin as much as possible to insure it is thoroughly soldered.
I need to try some of the ways you use.
You got it down good.
Thanks 😇
This was a fantastic video and extremely informative. I really liked your 'exploded' cut-away sectionals of the pipe and valve portions showing coverage within the connection.
Thank you very much!!!
I certainly learned more than I thought I would. Great video for all home owner diy'ers. Products and techniques change in the wink of an eye. What was a common
procedure from 'your' last plumbing repair/install from as little as 6
months ago, can be outdated and even substandard today.
Awesomeeeee super happy to hear that!!!
Great, thanks, especially about your comments about the valve seal and the initial heating of the copper pipe & the positioning of the torch (and damp cloth wrap tip); thereafter, so as to not compromise the plastic seal.
😇👌
Thank you, don't forget to share, it really helps the channel!
Your discription are wonderful and detailed, I agree with the others here, you make an excellent tutor.
Thanks a million Simon, have a great day 🤗🤗🤗
You videos have been great with plumbing DIYs!
Wow, thank you!
Very interesting and thanks for sharing such a good video. Your video is so convincing that I never stop myself from saying something about it. You’re doing a great job. Keep it up.
Thank you so much Juliee 🤗
Good tip. I especially like your suggestion on matching the length of solder to pipe diameter. I tend to be a heavy solderer.
💯🤟
Excellent video as always. Oatey No.95 is my favorite flux as well. Especially for shutoff valves or extremely tights spaces.
Your videos are incredibly high quality. Thank you for your efforts!
You are most welcome!
Good to know about the lead free aspects. Ive always heated the pipe more, never wanting to cook the internals of the valve
It looks easy till I have tried it. Your skill is on next level. Hats off sir.
Thanks a lot, you'll get it don't worry!
You always do a good Job with your videos I've learn alot but theres some stuff like soldering i wish i could actually do with someone teaching like you said it takes time.
It’s a good point to share the flame away from the valve I learned something new today thanks 🤩
No problem 👍 please share if you can, thanks Eddy!!
So Julio, today I was in the shop and I came up with an experiment that has yielded quantitative data that might be of interest. I pretty much follow your technique in soldering ball valves to the letter, with good success so far. I was curious as to what temperature this technique was exposing the valve bodies to, based on our other conversation regarding valve seats. So today I grabbed a couple of Apollo lead-free cast bronze 3/4" valves (77-CLF-A) and some 3/4" type M copper hard tubing, and started soldering with my trusty propane pencil torch (using straight propane), some Sterling Premium LF solder and #95 tinning flux. These valves are marketed as made of "EZ-Solder Lead Free Bronze" (containing bismuth) which is supposed to solder nearly identically to traditional alloys containing lead.
After soldering each valve to my satisfaction using the preheat-pipe-first-then-heat-the-valve-cup method, I used a laboratory contact thermocouple and a Fluke digital temperature meter to measure the temperature of the valve body immediately after soldering. In each case, I did not use any cooling around the valve body (no wet rag, etc) and the valve body temperature did not exceed 350 degree Fahrenheit immediately after soldering. I'm very pleased to report, as per our previous thread exchange regarding the melting temperature of various valve seats. I try to stick with high quality ball valves from Apollo, Nibco, Milwaukee, etc and these typically have seats comprised of reinforced PTFE, whose melting temperature is around 620 degrees F. What this tells me is that for the 3/4" valves I tested, the method you recommend, when performed correctly with a conservative torch and fuel combination that does not produce excessive heat rapidly, appears to be well within the margin of safety for cast bronze LF valves (typically valve body temperatures not exceeding 500F), even without any valve body cooling applied (no wet rag).
Keep in mind that some lead-free forged brass valve manufacturers (i.e. Apollo) recommend that LF forged brass valve body temperature should not exceed 300F during soldering, thus some method of keeping these valves cool (like a wet rag) would likely be a good idea since in both case my results exceeded that. Also, results may be different with other valves, such as Nibco, which use LF alloys containing silicon and have different thermal conductivity than alloys containing bismuth such as the ones I tested.
Hope this information is useful.
Yes, this is why is SUPER important to read the manufacture directions on how to solder THEIR particular valves! Thanks again for all the great information Stiletto, it's fun to see you investigating this, love it!!!
Gotta say I always learn something from your videos. Thanks for posting.
🤗🤗🤗
I always learned new skills from you. Keep them coming.
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for the lesson. The guys in my company had trouble when the new ball valves came out.
Yeah we all did hehe, thanks Jim!
This is a great video.I have had the misfortune of applying too much heat when soldering half inch ball valves and the result was that the ball valves blew out and I had to desolder the ball valve and start all over with a new half inch ball valve.Now to avoid blowing out half inch ball valves I use a torch with a pencil tube to ensure that I do not over heat the ball valves.Thank you for the video,God bless you and yours.
Thanks for the plumbing videos and illustrations. Lead free meaning no lead solder, pipe, and fittings are the only type to use on potable water lines!☺
😇
I wish you had this video out last year. 🤣 It took me sooo long to get the joints to accept solder. Lots of reapplying flux and lots of gas wasted.(In reality it was only a few minutes. But when you're used to soldering copper only taking a few seconds, it seemed like hours!)
Sorry brother, hope it helps for the next one 😁😁😁
@@Got2Learn It will! I literally learned how to solder from you.
Awesome man, thank you so much for letting me know, I really appreciate it!!
i am not a plumber but somehow i enjoy watching you content and learning plumbing knowledge which i am sure i will never use because i live in india where all pipes are 100%pvc.
Thanks 👍
You should do a video on soldering a ball valve in the open and closed position, then see what the difference is. Great video!
Great idea ;)
Great video. It clarifies my question about soldering this kind of valve
😊👍
This video was well done, very informative, Thank you.
I wish I watch this 2 weeks ago. I just changed out one of these ball valves and ran into a week at after I got done with it. I still need to go back and deal with it but I got my hands full out there that is far from the biggest problem. That's actually the smallest problem
I start with the connection that is opposite to the internal seal and then I use a wet rag to help lower the valve body temperature when welding the pipe closest to the internal seal.
Always informative, clear and concise, thank you.
Most welcome!!
Your videos are always the best - You out do yourself. Thank you for the great presentations
So nice of you!!!
Good Video with good explanation and tips. Keep up the good work.
Glad you liked it!
Really love your clarity man.
Thank you so much Richard!
It's a good day. I learned something new. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!!
Great video with proving the method worked!
Glad it helped, thanks Heath!
I wish I had found this video yesterday, I spend a full roll and I couldn't figure out why why was it so difficult😭? Thanks for the videos👍
Always a very instructional and educational video bro. I do understand the reason for moving away from lead, but it sure was easier to use.
Yeah lead is SOOOO much easier to work with, it just comes at a price (our health) and it's a good thing that companies are starting to make a move, thank you so much Viper6, passe une belle journee!!!
Parenthesis noted. Maybe just elabourate how this job and you are babies.
I might have learned something. A couple of years ago I replaced my shut off valve coming into the house. It is vertical. I made the top connection with no problem whatsoever but I never could get the bottom one to draw up into the valve. I gave up and used a shark bite to get the water back on.
If the shark bite fails I will try your tips.
You have the most well thought out and informative videos, thank you
Thank you so much Jed, really appreciate it!!!
Exceptional instruction, great video production. Thank you!
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GREAT video! As usual, very well done. This an example of "smart" plumbing. Meanwhile, I'm over at the Sharkbite shut off valves. . .
😆😆😆 thanks man!
Will be changing my water shut off valve this week because I can't afford a plumber. I have some experience with plumbing so I hope it all goes smoothly 😃
Just make sure the valve is visible and accessible so that when the little O ring inside the SharkBite fitting that holds back the water eventually fails, you'll know about it before catastrophic flooding occurs in your home.
You are top notch! Great videos and thanks for all your time you put in.
Thank you soooo much!!!
From a DYI'er that was a excellent viddy well done and sweet sweating!
Thank you so much, please share if you can!!
great video !! Where was this in 2014 When i was learning !!! i blew out many seals improper heating or over heating the valves !! $$ AWESOME VIDEO 100% RECOMMEND!
Right on!!!
Awesome video animations, very informative and great tips! Amazing work!
Thank you so much John 🤩🤩🤩
YOU DID VERY BEAUTIFULLY SOLDERING PERFECT
The biggest problem I've had with soldering ball valves is overheating the valve and damaging the seal so that it won't shut off completely. On one job, after I ruined the second valve, I said the heck with it and went with the Shark Bite. It worked fine, opens and closes completely and no leaks. I worry about 10 or 20 years down the road, but it solved my immediate problem.
It'll still be there if it was properly installed, cheers!!!
I'm not confident in soldering ball valves, and I don't trust Sharkbites. My solution? Sweat a male adapter onto the copper pipe, and use a FPT ball valve.
@@cleansebob1 That sounds like a grand solution.
Good video. I’ve done this many times myself, I like to brush flex on my joints after I soldered them and then wipe them clean with a cool rag. This makes my joints look more professional and cleaner. Just my preference though.
Yes, just be careful not to burn your brushes, I prefer putting some flux on a rag instead, cheers!
@@Got2Learn
Hey, I never thought of that...thanks for the tip!!!
(And my brushes thank you too)
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This is super helpful stuff for us DIY’ers!
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Thanks for the information...it’s good that I was doing it the right way...I also like the lead free flux cause it’s just works better..
You are most welcome, please share if you can, it helps the channel tremendously ✌✌
A tip for you (Got2Learn) to share! To easily repair a pinhole or small freeze split in a copper
pipe. Drain the water out, as usual but don't cut the pipe. Then all you have to do is clean the surface of the pipe around the leak a few inches beyond both sides of the leak along the pipe. Using stranded bare copper
wire, wrap the wire around the cleaned pipe, covering the pinhole or split like it's a copper bandaid. Then using flux flow solder over the copper wire and the pipe. The wire will give strength to the pipe over the leak and the solder will provide a water tight seal around the pipe and the leak. It's a way faster and easier than replacing a small section of
pipe w/new. If you have what you need in your tool bag it takes minutes and you don't use any pipe or fittings. I trust you understood what I explained. Cheers
Hi. Thanks for sharing your method. What gauge copper stranded wires do you recommend?
@@dido1803 Any "stranded wire" stripped down will do. 14 ga or 10ga. , the strands are the same there is more per foot with larger wire. Lamp cord or a window AC cord for an old appliance, just stranded scrap wire. Cut from something that was being thrown away will do.
I do maintenance repairs/ handyman work, so I usually strip off the good parts from things I throw away.
Like if I replace a ceiling fan I'll pull the 3 speed switch off and use it to repair a fan with a broken pull chain switch. It beats having to run to the store to buy a new one when needed I got one. cheers.
We learned a lot in soldering methods
Very helpful information!!!.....I appreciate the great content. 👍 👍
Sterling solder or other low temp solders are also great for soldering brass (not copper) fittings like drop ears, not just valves. Your videos have been really helpful for fixing stuff myself. I am in the USA, not Canada so I buy all my stuff from Ferguson.
Yes, any new brass that has no lead, thanks my man!!
Thanks for your videos, very helpful. I watched this one about 5 times prior to installing a bypass for my new water softener. It’s appreciated.
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Your videos are the best
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When i solder plumbing joints, more so with horizontal joints, i tend to leave a little half drip under the joint. I use about a 1/4” to 3/4” extra solder per joint.
Thanks for the tips on the LF valves.
Thought of a question: That low-temp solder is quite expensive. For risk-averse beginning DIY solderers like myself, would it be just as well to get a ball valve with female threads on each end, then screw them into copper pipes which I previously terminated with male thread fittings? This would keep heat well away from the valve. Thx.
That'll work too!
Congrats I like how you explain everything. Good video.
You are most welcome, please share if you can, it helps the channel tremendously ✌✌
Great teacher,...well done!
Wow, thank you!!!!