Thanks for your comment, I can see your theory, in reality you could set the alignment off the teeth edges, the allowances in the chain fitment on the teeth and the end floats are adequate to not cause any issues doing it this way as per the manual though.
Hi Ross @thomasclassicandmodern. Question for you on the cam gears. I have 2x original untouched A series 998 engines, one I believe is late 60's, the other is late 70's. The 60's engine has the larger 'wide' gear with 2 rubber 'tensioner' rings on it, while the 70's engine does not, its just a bare gear. Do you have info on what the rubber rings were for, and if they are required, and even if they are better/worse than the bare gears. The rubber rings I am referring to are P/N: 8G549. The 60's engine is quite flogged out, so I am rebuilding the 70's one. This one has the bare gear, and so I am just trying to determine which of the original parts to use, if I should use the same gear it came with or swap to the one with the 2 rubber tensioner rings instead. Both are single chain, basic setups, no external tensioner like your video showed on that engine, literally just a chain and 2 gears. The gears are all still in great condition, on both engines. I have a new chain obviously, but just trying to figure out what the difference is with these gears and why they moved away from the rubber rings and different gear style, and if there is any benefit to using them or not. For reference the 2 engines are 99H353E-HI7xxxx and 99H791P-25xxxx engine numbers. Many thanks
Hi there, the old style rubber ring tensioner is pointless, fit the later style gears and swap to the later tensioner or at very least use the iwis chain. I would favour the later gears over the early rubber ringed ones.
@@thomasclassicandmodern Thank you for the reply. Can you fit the later tensioner to engines which never used to have one? I did not realise that was an option. Does it involve changing the plate to a different type or something? I already got a new 3H2127EVO chain from Minispares - they seemed to think this is the one to use without a tensioner and would be OK. Is that one sufficient?
Currently rebuilding the 1275 in my 72 Midget and this video was incredibly helpful. Thanks for putting this together!
Excellent !! This is the sort of feedback we love to hear, thanks for watching 👍
Excellent !! exactly what I was looking for. Learnt something new watching this. Thank you
Many thanks for watching, hope it helps in some way 👍
This has been ..for a novice like myself..invaluable, the most in depth tutorial out there.
Many thanks, excellent stuff!
Many thanks for your great feedback, if we've helped you we will call that a huge success. So glad you watched 👍👍
Great video
Thanks for watching and appreciate the feedback 👍👍
You deserve more than 728 subcribers !
Thank you and we are trying but it's all a bit alien to us how it all works. We will get there 👍👍
Nice setup you've got there Ross them gaskets don't work without sealer do they
Which gaskets ?
Brilliant
Thank you 👍 hope it was of help
I certainly appreciate it. Thanks
It appears that the cam gear is thicker where you layed your straight edge. This would give you a false reading.
Thanks for your comment, I can see your theory, in reality you could set the alignment off the teeth edges, the allowances in the chain fitment on the teeth and the end floats are adequate to not cause any issues doing it this way as per the manual though.
Hi Ross @thomasclassicandmodern. Question for you on the cam gears. I have 2x original untouched A series 998 engines, one I believe is late 60's, the other is late 70's. The 60's engine has the larger 'wide' gear with 2 rubber 'tensioner' rings on it, while the 70's engine does not, its just a bare gear. Do you have info on what the rubber rings were for, and if they are required, and even if they are better/worse than the bare gears. The rubber rings I am referring to are P/N: 8G549.
The 60's engine is quite flogged out, so I am rebuilding the 70's one. This one has the bare gear, and so I am just trying to determine which of the original parts to use, if I should use the same gear it came with or swap to the one with the 2 rubber tensioner rings instead. Both are single chain, basic setups, no external tensioner like your video showed on that engine, literally just a chain and 2 gears. The gears are all still in great condition, on both engines. I have a new chain obviously, but just trying to figure out what the difference is with these gears and why they moved away from the rubber rings and different gear style, and if there is any benefit to using them or not.
For reference the 2 engines are 99H353E-HI7xxxx and 99H791P-25xxxx engine numbers.
Many thanks
Hi there, the old style rubber ring tensioner is pointless, fit the later style gears and swap to the later tensioner or at very least use the iwis chain. I would favour the later gears over the early rubber ringed ones.
@@thomasclassicandmodern Thank you for the reply. Can you fit the later tensioner to engines which never used to have one? I did not realise that was an option. Does it involve changing the plate to a different type or something? I already got a new 3H2127EVO chain from Minispares - they seemed to think this is the one to use without a tensioner and would be OK. Is that one sufficient?