Building a Boosted Classic Mini Engine - Part 2
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2024
- #boosted #classicmini #engine
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0:00 Intro
1:31 Finishing Timing Cover
4:00 Crank Pulley Install
5:00 Head Studs Install
6:00 Head Gasket Install
7:35 Cylinder Head Install
9:00 Push Rod Install
9:45 1.3 Roller Rocker Install
12:13 Torquing Cylinder Head
13:00 Setting Rocker Gap
15:00 Installing the Gearbox
18:00 Mock-Up of Supercharger
19:10 Outro
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6241 South Blvd
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Charlotte, NC 28217-4157
❱ Parts in this Episode:
Half Moon Seal: cmdiy.co/HalfMoon
Gasket Set: cmdiy.co/ImprovedGaskets
MED Roller Rockers: cmdiy.co/1-3Rollers
MED Timing Cover: cmdiy.co/TimingCover
MED Timing Plate: cmdiy.co/TimingPlate Thanks for watching Classic Mini DIY! Please note Classic Mini DIY assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Classic Mini DIY recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, expensive electronics, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Classic Mini DIY, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Classic Mini DIY. Only attempt your own repairs if you can accept personal responsibility for the results, whether they are good or bad. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Hey everyone thanks for watching! I just noticed I said 1.5 rockers in my video and I actually meant 1.3! Also, I plan on doing a little video talking about roller rockers and making sure they are shimmed correctly in the coming weeks so stay tuned for that.
Classic Mini DIY good call. Watching just now after getting in from the garage. Those rockers definitely need spaced up to give maximum lift. I had a similar issue with my 1.5 rockers and skimmed head.
For adjusting tappets, just remember the rule of 9. 1-8 2-7 etc.
will keep that in mind for my first valve clearence job, thanks mate
Damn..... Beaten to it 😂 rule of nine...
Exactly how I was taught. Rule of 9.
Looking good fella, I too love the engine colour . Looking forward to hearing it run 👌
Nice vid keep it up! Coming straight from Greece!! Stay safe!!
Looking awesome Cole!
Another superb episode Cole... the engine and gearbox is looking so clean well done
Thanks Alex!
As usual, this is a work of beauty ! Stay safe and take care of your loved ones (while you build this beast lol)
Hi Cole, great vid, you've got alot done! That seal in the timing case was a bugga hey, didn't want to stay in place! All coming together nicely and looking great overall! 😊
Looks fab. Nice presentation 👍🏻
Thank you!
Awesome looking alrite
Another great video 👌 keep'em coming 😉
Thank you!
Perfect example 👌
The same thing happened to me with MED. I ordered 1.5 roller rockers and got the 1.3 rollers in the mail. I had to ship it back to the UK from California on my own dime. And, after finally getting the 1.5’s, they still forgot to send me the little oil grub screw for them. After all was sorted, though, I flippin’ love them. Just took a while to find a rocker cover they didn’t tap on.
Great to see a fantastic car and engine being appreciated states side
Thanks!
That is very sexy! It’s just so nice to rebuild a mini engine from t comfort of a workbench. Can’t wait for the final installation.
I would have loved to have seen the inlet manifold and supercharger install discussed and explained who and where the manifold is sourced and the size and supply of supercharger unit, enjoying the build so far, waiting for part 3
I will cover most of those details in part 4 most likely. The short answer until then is most of it is part of the bespoke kit from VMAXSCART. Thanks so much for watching!
Nice work Cole ..
Thank you!
Love the colour of the engine
Thanks!
Really nice build of a 60 year old design "A" series engine. Maybe older than 60?
My first car was an Austin A30 with this engine, I often had to pull it out and rebuild with whatever I could get my hands on, eventually the con rod went through the block when the big end parted, no real problem, there were loads of these engnes about, just slot another used one in, and good for another 5000 miles or so.
Thanks for the video, guess I got here from watching BINKY.
proper pretty engine
Thank you!
Hi, an easy way to adjust the tappets on a four-cylinder 8 valve engine is to use the 'rule of 9'. As you said when valve 1 (front of the engine) is open, adjust valve 8. (8+1=9)/ Then open valve 2 and adjust valve 7 (2+7=9) and so on right up to having valve 8 open and adjusting valve 1 (8+1=9)
I hope that simplifies the adjustment sequence for everyone.
Simply lovlehh
😘
You will need to relieve the gasket and rocker cover flange at the 9 & 10 studs, as they won't clear the nuts and washers. Also check your end rockers for clearance, usually the end rockers will contact the cover requiring the adjuster ends to be ground back at their outer corners.
Pardon, 10 & 11 studs..
Yup already relieved off screen. Sits much happier now. These OG covers usually are alright with the standard ratio rockers. The fancy pants alloy super fins usually need clearancing though.
Second engine i learned to build after a 1600 crossflow
I’ve noticed in other mini engine build videos that they had problems with slack in the new timing chain and had to go to a tensioner. How did you get away with that? I would carefully hand stretch that timing cover “O” ring to make it fit properly. And you had clearance with the hi ratio rockers with the stock valve cover? Excited to see what power and reliability you get. Great video. Thanks
Looks great! Great job Cole.
Is the cork gasket better than the rubber type?
I prefer the rubber type because it's reusable. I just happen to have a few cork ones lying around that need to get used. Both work equally well imo.
Hi. So your installation of the crankshaft damper and the cam gears are incorrect. So as a performance engine these components are not a one fit item. You need to use some emory cloth to give the a little more clearance on the damper and cam gears. Clearance to the point where you push them on and pull them off without the use of a tap hammer.
Hi Cole I hope you didn't forget the o ring seal that goes between the engine and transmission 🙂 or else noooooo oil pressure 🙊🙊🙊
Nope! That’s been on the gearbox since I took it apart hahaha
Looks class! What paint did you use for the block? Im wanting to do my land rover engine in the same colour
Hey its an Eastwood 2k Engine Enamel heres the video I covered the painting in:
th-cam.com/video/elq0l7JUFz4/w-d-xo.html
Is there plenty of room for the bonnet (hood) to close with the supercharger in place ? Great video !😊
Jusssst barely. I tested it on my old engine setup before pulling it to make sure. 👍🏼
Are you providing more crankcase venting than stock? I have vented using the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate, cam gear cover, valve cover and rear cover to a catch can. The main reason minis leak and oil up the clutch, not enough venting.
Hi Cole, great video! Why did you choose to go with the 1.5 rollers instead of the larger ratio?
I actually went with 1.3 (I said the wrong thing in this video). I went with standard ratio because the cam is already pretty hot and the more aggressive rockers are less suited to the supercharger than the standard ratio.
No main seal on the front of the crankshaft?
That is not a Cometic head gasket, but a Peyton. The Cometic MLS (multi layer stainless) is a much better gasket, especially in a supercharger application. It is available in several thicknesses for this engine. Spendy, but no leaks, no failures, no re-torque required. The best gasket you can use!
I just read Vmaxscart's site where they claim the Cometic gasket leaks under boost. First I've heard of this, perhaps this is on a 9-stud? These gaskets have been highly recommended by top engine builders for years.
Superb, he knows what he is talking about.
Hi Cole - Could you issue a link to buy the hard Half Moon Seal (or just mention who sells them - was it Mini Spares ?)
Hey this is the half moon seal here: cmdiy.co/HalfMoon I always include these links in my description as well. :-)
Which trans and block are being used? I must have built about 10 when I I was racing about 25 years ago. I have 2 short blocks to finish. I need to get up to speed on the new stuff. I am at the David Visard stage. Thanks, Tom
This is a pre-A+ 1275 block from an Austin America. Bored to 1293. The transmission is a later style trans though. Rod change gearbox using an updated set of helical heavy duty gears
I notice you are not running a straight cut transfer gear setup, in my experience with high output engines "115 bhp" and above helical gears won't last long. What engine horse power do you expect?
I read somewhere that the torque low down the revs from a supercharger isn't good for the straight cut gears as the helical gears take it smoother, but is better for turbos as the torque is later in the power band. I might be wrong though - its 3rd party information.
Just like to say I also used the hard seal and it leaked like a sieve. So went back to the true and tested. When we had the box off and checked the seal it was short by about 3mm hence why it leaked. Hope I just had a faulty one.
Good to know and hopefully that doesnt happen here. It fit really nicely in there so I am feeling pretty good about it.
Classic Mini DIY yep I hope for you as well. Even when the box was on you could move the seal with a screwdriver
Not cool as mini has been totally overhauled painted etc, so having oil leak and spread all over the bottom of the car was not cool. New seal installed and motor run on the bench this time checking for leaks before popping back into the engine bay.
Really enjoy you’re videos.
Hi. I installed a similar roots style supercharger to my 1275 (1380) mini some years ago and had constant problems with it blowing the sandwich gasket. Does your supercharger use a sandwich gasket between it and the intake manifold? Cheers, Wayne.
Hey the intake manifold is all part of the supercharger. I believe Stuart(vmaxscart) welds them together so you cannot easily remove just the intake manifold.
That’s probably the best way. Eliminate the gasket altogether.
put some plugs in it before you drop something in the bores
I usually keep a set in there. In fact they are now. Just not in this episode.
what cc is the turbo engine in bad wolf
1293cc with an 8.2:1 compression ratio.
the piting around the coolant jackets on the deck done my head in,,, being a boosted engine, that should have been addressed and fixed,,, you need a good seal between cylinders and coolant jackets so the cooling circuit doesn't get pressurised,,,,,,
Which is why he's been recommended the BK450. Its laquer 'melts' into the pits to close them up. I have pitting on mine and happily running 18psi of boost with no issues. Don't underestimate what a good headgasket is capable of, technology has moved on a long way.
The engine would look cooler if you change the valve cover. Very nice set-up though...
Which one would you use?
@@classicminidiy i don't know how its called but I have a sample photo I just can't attached it... its also available in seven mini parts... the one with chrome stripes on top, but you gotta color it black or full chrome or anything you prefer.
@@classicminidiy fp26 flat top alloy... i dunno if im right on the name.. im just a newbie.
That is NOT a Cometic head gasket, it's not even a MLS gasket, looks more like a BK450
I don't know who taught you how to set rockers, but you should forget everything they said.
The Haynes manual is a pretty interesting thing to disagree with. I’m curious what you feel I’m missing or doing incorrectly.
@@classicminidiy because of where the piston is in the bore / camshaft lobe phase. To set any mechanical tappet / adjustable hydraulic engine you take the first half of the firing order and overlay the second half of the firing order. For example a Small Block Chev firing order 18436572 you take 1843 and you put it over the top of 6572. You then have four pairs 1-6, 8-5, 4-7, 3-2.
You rock (exhaust valve closing - intake valve opening) the first cylinder number, and set both intake and exhaust valves on the corresponding number cylinder. Once you do all of the top four numbers, you rock the bottom four and set the top four. This ensures that the opposite number cylinder is roughly at TDC and there is no risk of the valves not being closed.
By setting the valves with just one valve down, with big duration camshafts you run the risk of setting a valve without it being fully seated. Remember most big camshafts have overlap. By making sure the cylinder is roughly at TDC, there is zero chance of this happening. Not only that but you can set both valves at the same time.
Also with setting the lash with a feeler gauge from the side. This is also wrong. On most stamped rockers you have a concave / convex (depending on how you view it) part that helps guide the feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve tip. Trying to feed a feeler gauge into the side of the roller where there is no lead in you will almost always have a larger gap then you need because you have to put the feeler gauge in perfectly square for it to get in.
The proper way to set roller rockers is from the front and learn how much is the right amount of tension. For example if you fit the feeler gauge in and it is sloppy you still have too much gap. If with a light push the feeler gauge won't go in you have too little gap. You should only require the lightest of pushes to get a feeler gauge in because it is a rolling wheel. Set them a few times and you will know how much is right.
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering works for a big V8, not for a classic mini that has been tried and tested for 60 years, race teams, engine builders etc. The way Cole has done it is the approved method by the best A series engine builders in the world. If you push the feeler gauge in directly through the rollers it'll give a false reading as it 'rides' the roller. The rule of 9 also works due to the way the a series cam is set up, it isn't a conventional engine and therefore should not be treated as such.
@@Dagowly83 please explain how it cannot work. If it was something like a Buick / Chev from the 80's with an offset ground crank, maybe, but it still has two pistons at TDC at the same time, so therefore one is rocking while the other is on compression, and the 1340cc stroker engine I built for my Mini had both valves closed on compression, so there is zero difference between it and a SBC. Instead of 1,8,4,3 over 6,5,7,2 you do 1,3 over 4,2. Rock 1 one set 4, rock 3 set 2, rock 4 set 1, rock 2 set 3, done.
Lash is lash, again it doesn't matter if you are setting the lash on a SBC or a Mini, if you use the feeler gauges right the lash will be right. There is zero difference between a SBC valve tip and Mini valve tip they are both perfectly flat (or should be). There is no difference between a SBC roller rocker roller, and a Mini one, they are both round. So provided you do the adjustment properly there is zero reasons for the lash to not be done right.
As I said a light push, if you are pushing the feeler guage under the roller so it jams in, then you are applying too much pressure, it should nearly go in with no resistance.
@@DodgyBrothersEngineering the rule of 9 works perfectly as when valve 1 is full decompressed, 8 is 180 degrees out so is at the largest gap in the cam. It is an easy to follow method and works due to the mechanical nature of the cam and engine.