I appreciate these videos. The long form live streams in the voron community are not consumable, and discord for finding info is not much better in my opinion. Thanks for posting.
your notes, thoughts, discoveries and attributions regarding canbus w/ klipper as someone who is also 100% not an EE were awesome, on-point and super useful. thanks for documenting and sharing this stuff!
For your power issues of short power cutouts, consider computer UPS power supplies they will give you at least a few minutes of full power usage even when the power goes out and will help with dirty power that you probably have that can cause other issues with electronics.
Thanks for the can bus explanation. I couldn't work out how its all connected in parallel and then you need to designate an end with the 120R resistor. But this make sense now thanks to your explanation. The only thing i'm not fully clear on now is how to make the connection to the second toolhead. If that comes from the can high and low then you need to splice in to the can high and low lines for the second toolhead? Im already mid build on my own.
Yeah just splice it in, but the length of the added wires (the stub) must be kept short. If you run the bus wires to the first toolhead and then just crimp another set of wires into the same connector to run to the second toolhead, that would be the shortest stub possible. The jumper would go on the second toolhead. This is where mentions of daisy chaining came from.
@@bonjipoo No, that would be like my setup where the u2C is in the middle. In terms of umbilicals, what I was describing in my last reply would be like having one umbilical from the U2C to the first toolhead, then an umbilical from the first toolhead to the second one. (using the white connector on the first toolhead as the splice point instead of running separate wires to it)
What about using klicky, assemble the dock at about the middle of the x axis and using klicky setup for both tool heads somehow configure Klipper to use the klicky with both tool heads and calculate the z offset from one tool heads to another, such as when ur printing with one head and changing to the other one Klipper instantly changes the offset and gives you a perfect offset in the Z axis
you ever get weird resonance vibrations? I have my first voron 2.4, and after going from afterburner to stealth burner - a weird noise popped up, but only around 60-100 mm/s? wondering what you think I should do. I have checked for everything, most the noise seems to be coming from the AB motors. its really strange.
The IDEX seems noisier than it should be, but I can't say it changed after adding the stealthburners. Not sure what advice to offer other than checking the idler bearings on the AB drives and making sure the belts aren't too tight.
Klicky is the way to go, it worked flawlessly for me unlike the ir sensor or the bltouch I used before, I would very much like to convert my trident to idex will you be releasing the files at some point?
It's a "someday" kind of thing. Hopefully someone with more talent will beat me to it with a better design. They are welcome to borrow any ideas seen here.
I had trouble with repeatability using Klicky and I never found out why. In fact I discovered that most toolhead senosors were less repeatable when the hotend heater was on as if it was creating electrical interference or maybe the hot air was an issue even a superPinda. But it depends on what your setup is and mine was using the ecrf pcb and a professional wire harness from Linneo. But somethings not right if the hotend cause electrical interference for the probe. So i've been quietly working on a nozzle sensor which is in the bed rather than on the toolhead, similar to the Bambu labs X1. This would be the ideal solution for idex machines because you don't need a probe on each toolhead. The bed is the sensor. Its not far away now but its cost quite a lot of money to develop will probably be a similar cost to buying a probe ultimately.
What is IDEX? Looking to build a voron 2 but still learning. Like this video, nice, concise and short enough to actually watch unlike almost every other Voron video (like 3hrs)
@@Th3_Gael IDEX means it has two toolhead. Its unreleased and experimental for Voron and Klipper. This would be beyond beginner level as there is so much to learn with Vorons as it is. This printer here is a modified Trident and the IDEX version is called Tridex. But like I said its not released yet.
@@bonjipoo wow, that's an insanely swift reply. Thankyou I'm finding out the hard way that there's a lot to learn lol. Thanks for clearing up things for me, I think this stuff is still a good year away (or more) yet. I've still a ways to go
I am not able to until youtube has added automatic captions. I do not know how long this takes, but my last video has them. I will keep checking and when automatic captions have been added, I will make sure automatic translation is possible.
I appreciate these videos. The long form live streams in the voron community are not consumable, and discord for finding info is not much better in my opinion. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the update! Love seeing your progress.
your notes, thoughts, discoveries and attributions regarding canbus w/ klipper as someone who is
also 100% not an EE were awesome, on-point and super useful. thanks for documenting and sharing this stuff!
For your power issues of short power cutouts, consider computer UPS power supplies they will give you at least a few minutes of full power usage even when the power goes out and will help with dirty power that you probably have that can cause other issues with electronics.
Thanks for the can bus explanation. I couldn't work out how its all connected in parallel and then you need to designate an end with the 120R resistor. But this make sense now thanks to your explanation. The only thing i'm not fully clear on now is how to make the connection to the second toolhead. If that comes from the can high and low then you need to splice in to the can high and low lines for the second toolhead? Im already mid build on my own.
Yeah just splice it in, but the length of the added wires (the stub) must be kept short. If you run the bus wires to the first toolhead and then just crimp another set of wires into the same connector to run to the second toolhead, that would be the shortest stub possible. The jumper would go on the second toolhead. This is where mentions of daisy chaining came from.
@@badmouth75 ok like two umbilicals to the white can bus connector on the u2c?
@@bonjipoo No, that would be like my setup where the u2C is in the middle. In terms of umbilicals, what I was describing in my last reply would be like having one umbilical from the U2C to the first toolhead, then an umbilical from the first toolhead to the second one. (using the white connector on the first toolhead as the splice point instead of running separate wires to it)
What about using klicky, assemble the dock at about the middle of the x axis and using klicky setup for both tool heads somehow configure Klipper to use the klicky with both tool heads and calculate the z offset from one tool heads to another, such as when ur printing with one head and changing to the other one Klipper instantly changes the offset and gives you a perfect offset in the Z axis
What are your M48 results for that Omron proximity sensor?
There's a video by Teaching Tech explaining how to sep up a tool head pcb here on TH-cam.
you ever get weird resonance vibrations? I have my first voron 2.4, and after going from afterburner to stealth burner - a weird noise popped up, but only around 60-100 mm/s? wondering what you think I should do. I have checked for everything, most the noise seems to be coming from the AB motors. its really strange.
The IDEX seems noisier than it should be, but I can't say it changed after adding the stealthburners. Not sure what advice to offer other than checking the idler bearings on the AB drives and making sure the belts aren't too tight.
dAM YOU ARE MAKING ME WANT TO MAKE A TRIDENT IDEX.
Klicky is the way to go, it worked flawlessly for me unlike the ir sensor or the bltouch I used before, I would very much like to convert my trident to idex will you be releasing the files at some point?
It's a "someday" kind of thing. Hopefully someone with more talent will beat me to it with a better design. They are welcome to borrow any ideas seen here.
I had trouble with repeatability using Klicky and I never found out why. In fact I discovered that most toolhead senosors were less repeatable when the hotend heater was on as if it was creating electrical interference or maybe the hot air was an issue even a superPinda. But it depends on what your setup is and mine was using the ecrf pcb and a professional wire harness from Linneo. But somethings not right if the hotend cause electrical interference for the probe. So i've been quietly working on a nozzle sensor which is in the bed rather than on the toolhead, similar to the Bambu labs X1. This would be the ideal solution for idex machines because you don't need a probe on each toolhead. The bed is the sensor. Its not far away now but its cost quite a lot of money to develop will probably be a similar cost to buying a probe ultimately.
What is IDEX?
Looking to build a voron 2 but still learning.
Like this video, nice, concise and short enough to actually watch unlike almost every other Voron video (like 3hrs)
@@Th3_Gael IDEX means it has two toolhead. Its unreleased and experimental for Voron and Klipper. This would be beyond beginner level as there is so much to learn with Vorons as it is. This printer here is a modified Trident and the IDEX version is called Tridex. But like I said its not released yet.
@@bonjipoo wow, that's an insanely swift reply. Thankyou
I'm finding out the hard way that there's a lot to learn lol.
Thanks for clearing up things for me, I think this stuff is still a good year away (or more) yet.
I've still a ways to go
老兄，可以開個自動翻譯嗎？
can you enable automatic translation?
I am not able to until youtube has added automatic captions. I do not know how long this takes, but my last video has them. I will keep checking and when automatic captions have been added, I will make sure automatic translation is possible.
Is it possible to get those longer skirts? Thanks.
I am just using the standard 350 skirts on the front and back, 250 skirts on the sides. Standard parts from the Voron STL files.
@@badmouth75 I see. Thanks. I'm very interested to see how this project will proceed. You're doing a great job.
Don’t change what’s not broken.