I have used several wooden decks in the past with no problems. But I learned a good trick here on TH-cam that may help you. Using a spray bottle, LIGHTLY mist the plastic deck with water. The water allows you to adjust the wooden deck if you don't get it perfect on the first try. I have overdone it a couple of times and had water soak through the veneer, but the water dried and everything was fine.
Very informative video for those of us that have never used these decks before. Nice and simple explanations and great camera work! 👍🏻 Also, I like the tip with the access hatch to the screws for the pedestals. Wish you produced more videos 🙏🏻
Many thanks for this video, I was given the Tamiya 1:350 scale HMS PoW and KGV for Christmas and want to put wooden decks on them but I have not ever built any battleships before and watching this video will be a massive help and it lessons the daunting task at hand
I'm about to do the 1/200 scale bismarck and ordered the wooden decking with etching for it but didn't have a clue how it went on but your vid cleared that up for me
Back in my museum days I would hand lay (1/350th scale) with tiny planks. All "stick-on" decks will eventually lift in places due to fluctuating humidity and mixed media. Nevertheless, it is fairly easy to paint the default deck. Do the things you fear to do and the fear will disappear. Airbrush light deck tan first (several lighter random shades as well if you wish). You can even brush in thin lines of alternating color as well. But no need in this scale especially since the deck is etched already from injection mold. When dry, hand brush burnt/or raw umber (oil paint)over the whole deck. Then wipe it all off with a rag coupled with random streaks etc. When the deck is completely dry (several weeks), seal with flat coat. This way the deck will never lift and always look pristine.
Great video covering what can be a tricky subject. I've avoided them so far and continued to airbrush Tamiya deck colour and then give it a wash to bring out the planking detail. Now I'm going to bite the bullet and use an alternative deck on my upcoming Fujimi 1/350 scale. I hadn't heard the tip of giving the deck a coat of clear to help with adhesion so will definitely give that a go!
I’m about to start Tamiya’s Tirpitz. I’ve also bought Art Wox wooden deck. The pack includes not only the wooden deck but also two yellow sheets with faint outline of the deck. What do I do with these yellow sheets please? I found your video very helpful, thanks.
Hi,I'm building trumpeters 1/350 repulse and bought hunters wooden deck. It dont fit,i had a load of trouble fitting the fore deck, it lines up ok from the breakwater to the barbette,but from the barbette to the front of the superstructure it needed trimming by a fair amount.Also the rear upper deck needed quite a bit taken off. I've got a warspite on the stocks, I'll try a different manufacturer with that one. Thanks for the info on decks ,learned a lot.👍
I have the Pontos kit for Trumpeters 1/200 USS Missouri. I cleaned the deck first with alcohol then applied the wood decking. Accidentally left the model in the sunlight and it was peeling in multiple places. I used crazy glue to get it back down and seems to be working
Thank you for posting this, also thank you to the helpful Lady on the phone the other day, (Guardian of the stock dept, lol) I'll be coming to you for all my future modeling needs, cheers and best wishes. Fu75.
Will these wooden decks stick over paint? Say I want to put a base coat down on something before applying the wood. Will it still work or does it need to be bare plastic?
Help! I'm building a ship that I FINALLY found a model (by Trumpeter) of a warship that I've lived within 15 miles of all my life (i.e. 66 years). That would be the only surviving dreadnaught of both World Wars - the USS BB-35 or the Battleship Texas which is anchored just outside of Houston, Texas. I'm using the Pontos accessory kit and am having a terrible time with the decking. What I have is the planking with the plexiglass covering ON TOP of the planking so that when pulled off you have very sticky planking. Now - the fly in the buttermilk is that adhered to the bottom of the planking is a thin dark green sort of rubbery layer which has no adhesive and will not peal away from the planking which has the adhesive on top. If I were to afix the planking to the deck with the adhesive side I would have green panelling showing which I can't imagine is the effect that I would be looking for. I can't attach a picture of what I have to these comments but can send one (as well as a picture of the Texas I recently took while out visiting not long ago). Incidentally, it is in dry dock at the San Jacinto Battleground where it has been since 1948 undergoing much needed repair to the hull. Otherwise, the superstructure of the ship and the quarters and such below decks have been renovated and look exacly as they did on V-J Day. The Texas shelled the Germans at Normandy on D-Day and then Japanese at Iwo Jima and Okinawa. Thanks for any assistance anyone can give me. I've contacted the folks at Pontos who seem baffled at what i'm trying to tell them. I'm equally baffled by their product.
Makrela tiger - Hi, in general they are sold separately as aftermarket products. Some kit manufacturers are beginning to offer "premium" edition kits with them included though. The one demonstrated is made by Pontos Model from South Korea.
Little question, do I have to sand down all deck details like planking an stuff or is it fine to put it right on? I mean will it be to thick or don't stick properly. (parts that aren't cut in the wooden deck of course must gone)
Heck! Your doing this all wrong 6:19 Lay the wood deck on a flat surface then carefully using a new sharp blade recut all the pre-cut laser cuts, the remove the outer waste areas and discard, when it's all off you you need to thoroughly wash your hands and dry them before handling the parts you need! Then carefully remove the part you need. How you did this is wrong, doing it will stress the wood and the way you are struggling no doubt you'll get slight sweaty hands which will produce the oil, which will contaminate the glue backing. I've seen wood decking lift after some months has passed, usually the model maker just presses it back down again, but eventually the lifted area gets contaminated with dust and so does the glue, then it never stops down.
@@jamieduff1981 Well that's a mature adult sort of reply! Are you an adult or just can't take certain types of posts from youtubers ? Whichever way I'd suggest turning the comments off. Have a nice day.
I would be inclined to agree with the chap who suggested the wood be laid flat and then cut. Nevertheless you have made a wonderful job and the tolerance of the wooden decking you have used is fantastic.
@@PiperStart Recently completed the Tamiya New Jersey, wood decking fitted, do you use Facebook at all ? facebook.com/pg/IanLanc/photos/?tab=album&album_id=3205301006156801
![1/350 BISMARCK [Trumpeter] - Model build part 1/4](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iBWYaqDhc9w/mqdefault.jpg)
![1/350 BISMARCK [Trumpeter] - Model build part 1/4](/img/tr.png)
Very informative and great help as will be having a go at this very soon, many thanks.
I have used several wooden decks in the past with no problems. But I learned a good trick here on TH-cam that may help you. Using a spray bottle, LIGHTLY mist the plastic deck with water. The water allows you to adjust the wooden deck if you don't get it perfect on the first try. I have overdone it a couple of times and had water soak through the veneer, but the water dried and everything was fine.
I'm close to adding the QM2 decking and that tip is fantastic! Thank you
Very informative video for those of us that have never used these decks before. Nice and simple explanations and great camera work! 👍🏻 Also, I like the tip with the access hatch to the screws for the pedestals. Wish you produced more videos 🙏🏻
Trying my first soon. Glad I caught this video. There were a lot of nice tips in it.
Many thanks for this video, I was given the Tamiya 1:350 scale HMS PoW and KGV for Christmas and want to put wooden decks on them but I have not ever built any battleships before and watching this video will be a massive help and it lessons the daunting task at hand
I'm about to do the 1/200 scale bismarck and ordered the wooden decking with etching for it but didn't have a clue how it went on but your vid cleared that up for me
Back in my museum days I would hand lay (1/350th scale) with tiny planks. All "stick-on" decks will eventually lift in places due to fluctuating humidity and mixed media. Nevertheless, it is fairly easy to paint the default deck. Do the things you fear to do and the fear will disappear. Airbrush light deck tan first (several lighter random shades as well if you wish). You can even brush in thin lines of alternating color as well. But no need in this scale especially since the deck is etched already from injection mold. When dry, hand brush burnt/or raw umber (oil paint)over the whole deck. Then wipe it all off with a rag coupled with random streaks etc. When the deck is completely dry (several weeks), seal with flat coat. This way the deck will never lift and always look pristine.
Great video covering what can be a tricky subject. I've avoided them so far and continued to airbrush Tamiya deck colour and then give it a wash to bring out the planking detail. Now I'm going to bite the bullet and use an alternative deck on my upcoming Fujimi 1/350 scale.
I hadn't heard the tip of giving the deck a coat of clear to help with adhesion so will definitely give that a go!
I’m about to start Tamiya’s Tirpitz. I’ve also bought Art Wox wooden deck. The pack includes not only the wooden deck but also two yellow sheets with faint outline of the deck. What do I do with these yellow sheets please? I found your video very helpful, thanks.
Hi,I'm building trumpeters 1/350 repulse and bought hunters wooden deck. It dont fit,i had a load of trouble fitting the fore deck, it lines up ok from the breakwater to the barbette,but from the barbette to the front of the superstructure it needed trimming by a fair amount.Also the rear upper deck needed quite a bit taken off. I've got a warspite on the stocks, I'll try a different manufacturer with that one. Thanks for the info on decks ,learned a lot.👍
I have the Pontos kit for Trumpeters 1/200 USS Missouri. I cleaned the deck first with alcohol then applied the wood decking. Accidentally left the model in the sunlight and it was peeling in multiple places. I used crazy glue to get it back down and seems to be working
Really nice video. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Thank you for posting this, also thank you to the helpful Lady on the phone the other day, (Guardian of the stock dept, lol) I'll be coming to you for all my future modeling needs, cheers and best wishes. Fu75.
fantastic help thank you!
Thank you, very helpful info.
Thank you for the video. I am about to start this on my Tamiya 1:350 Bismarck
Will these wooden decks stick over paint? Say I want to put a base coat down on something before applying the wood. Will it still work or does it need to be bare plastic?
Help! I'm building a ship that I FINALLY found a model (by Trumpeter) of a warship that I've lived within 15 miles of all my life (i.e. 66 years). That would be the only surviving dreadnaught of both World Wars - the USS BB-35 or the Battleship Texas which is anchored just outside of Houston, Texas. I'm using the Pontos accessory kit and am having a terrible time with the decking. What I have is the planking with the plexiglass covering ON TOP of the planking so that when pulled off you have very sticky planking. Now - the fly in the buttermilk is that adhered to the bottom of the planking is a thin dark green sort of rubbery layer which has no adhesive and will not peal away from the planking which has the adhesive on top. If I were to afix the planking to the deck with the adhesive side I would have green panelling showing which I can't imagine is the effect that I would be looking for. I can't attach a picture of what I have to these comments but can send one (as well as a picture of the Texas I recently took while out visiting not long ago). Incidentally, it is in dry dock at the San Jacinto Battleground where it has been since 1948 undergoing much needed repair to the hull. Otherwise, the superstructure of the ship and the quarters and such below decks have been renovated and look exacly as they did on V-J Day. The Texas shelled the Germans at Normandy on D-Day and then Japanese at Iwo Jima and Okinawa. Thanks for any assistance anyone can give me. I've contacted the folks at Pontos who seem baffled at what i'm trying to tell them. I'm equally baffled by their product.
for finishing on that wooden decking is it safe to use a coat of polyurethane on it once applied???
Are you able to stain or laquer these decks?
Doesn't show how to attach the decking?
Those decks are in the box with the rest of the ship? Or u have to buy it by ur self?
Makrela tiger - Hi, in general they are sold separately as aftermarket products. Some kit manufacturers are beginning to offer "premium" edition kits with them included though.
The one demonstrated is made by Pontos Model from South Korea.
Make sure your hands are scrupulously clean - any oils will ruin both the adhesive and the paint work.
Little question, do I have to sand down all deck details like planking an stuff or is it fine to put it right on? I mean will it be to thick or don't stick properly. (parts that aren't cut in the wooden deck of course must gone)
I’m building the courage to do this with my 1:350 Graf Spee, and I say building the courage because it’s been 2 years in the making
Great video! +1 sub
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Heck! Your doing this all wrong 6:19
Lay the wood deck on a flat surface then carefully using a new sharp blade recut all the pre-cut laser cuts, the remove the outer waste areas and discard, when it's all off you you need to thoroughly wash your hands and dry them before handling the parts you need! Then carefully remove the part you need. How you did this is wrong, doing it will stress the wood and the way you are struggling no doubt you'll get slight sweaty hands which will produce the oil, which will contaminate the glue backing.
I've seen wood decking lift after some months has passed, usually the model maker just presses it back down again, but eventually the lifted area gets contaminated with dust and so does the glue, then it never stops down.
Thank you for the comment. I will put you in touch with the models on my shelf, and you can inform them that the decks are supposed to be lifting...
@@jamieduff1981 Well that's a mature adult sort of reply! Are you an adult or just can't take certain types of posts from youtubers ? Whichever way I'd suggest turning the comments off. Have a nice day.
I would be inclined to agree with the chap who suggested the wood be laid flat and then cut. Nevertheless you have made a wonderful job and the tolerance of the wooden decking you have used is fantastic.
@@PiperStart Recently completed the Tamiya New Jersey, wood decking fitted, do you use Facebook at all ? facebook.com/pg/IanLanc/photos/?tab=album&album_id=3205301006156801
This was very hard to watch