@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack. Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
Please do the same build but with a Caddx Vista and let's see if you get better or worse times. Analog= lightweight/fuzzy. Digital= heavyweight/clarity. I wonder if seeing better will make up for the weight difference. My guess is that digital will give you better times even with the extra weight. Personally I feel that digital allows for me to see further into the future. Fly Great!
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
I'd cut the gummy to the shape of the base plate and drill apertures so I can see the screws with paint or thin cut tape to see if the screws are walking out.
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
so cool that u building a drone and im going to watch lol thank u. my firts kwad i build it because of ur videos the second i bouth it the sedora and now i own more or less between ten and eleven kwads thanks to u.
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
At the risk of sounding dumb here goes. I want to get into drone racing as a hobby. mostly just racing around my property with my kids (I'm an all or nothing kind of guy so i want a fast drone mostly to make it so my kids cant beat me..... ever). I have flown drones on may occasions (don't own one yet) so I'm not a newb to them, but I've never been on the assembly side and at this point have only ever picked up a soldering iron maybe twice (once it was off). I've decided the best way is to dive in and build from scratch (so I understand how they work and so I can repair as needed). I've been to countless sites and watched numerous videos but have yet to find a place that at least to me clearly spells out what's needed. These builds are awesome to watch but I feel like everyone in the drone community leaves out info some of us noobs don't understand. like for instance josh built this awesome race drone but what size battery did he use (wasn't in the build list and didn't hear him mention it in the video). how do you know what battery to pair with your FC/ESC? how do you know if the motors will generate enough lift? I've used some of the calculators online and they all say either poor flight time sub 7 minutes or they say the ESC is undersized.... I even tried to recreate a build form a video in one of the cals and it failed... can anyone point me to a forum that has an in-depth walkthrough on spec-ing out a drone?
Battery: flyfive33.com/product/budget-1380mah-6s-150c-lipo-battery/ Good rule of thumb is the battery should be about 1/3 the total flying weight of the drone. Maybe a bit higher for an ultra-light racing drone. How to choose motor kv: th-cam.com/video/E6nsJpuaTQc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JoshuaBardwellLivestreamClips How to select ESC amp rating: th-cam.com/video/YDIqx09GMFA/w-d-xo.html
It's basically impossible to put all the information you would need to 100% completely understand the build in one video. It would be 20 hours long. You kind of just have to dive in and pick stuff up as you go.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank your for the fast response. I do realize that it is impossible to put it all in one video, which is why I asked for a forum link in my post. does there happen to be a playlist build that starts at ground zero and shows how to work up to a full build? please know I wasn't singling out your video out. it just happened to be the last video I watched.
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
Adding capacitor is so confusing. I have seen people connecting negative of capacitor to positive side but JB is doing the opposite. What is the correct way to do it?
When using these connectors, you could have soldered the wires from the underside of the esc where the cables go under the esc so you don't have them hanging around outside
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
Awesome build, this frame is built like a flippin tank. I would be a little concerned about the ESC wires running directly over the gyro. Not twisting them and running them underneath the FC might be better. Also, the amount of solder for the motor and battery leads is a little excessive. Less is actually better, electricly and mechanicly. I, too, used to leave some slack in the motor wires but ended up never using it (I'm using race wire) so I switched to cutting them short.
I think the redux ESC look- and specwise is like a Successor to the Lumenier Mini Razor Pro 4in1 20x20 F3 ESC that i am flying since september last year. I only managed to kill one of them out of my pack of racers so far.... pretty damn robust with the full size Fets. I also added 15 x 100uF Ceramic capacitors to the two solder rails on the bottom of the mini razor.
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Please! Watch the beginning of this video (th-cam.com/video/WMDED6j1-Ic/w-d-xo.html) to see two important changes you should make in this build.
@FPVquadGuy The DVR on an air unit can record audio , but I have not seen anyone crack the ability to get live audio....If they did , I would immediately do it.
I went to this nextvideo thinking you were going to fix the connecting GHST to T2, and instead of moving it to an R pad, you suggest moving it to T3. Shouldn’t it go to an RX pad? Does the serial RX half duplex make the pin both tx and rx?
I learned something today, but wasn't informed that I will.
You was actually.. subconsciously.. :) It´s on the wall behind him :P
GOLD! Acronyms do not express how much I laughed out loud!
lmao
True
Thanks for the endless help and information. I have a few soldering tips as someone who is JSTD-001ES certified. You shouldn't need to add flux. The problem is that you tinned the ESC pads with too much solder. The extra solder creeped down the wires and also limited the amount of solder you could add during the actual soldering of the joint in order to avoid totally overfilling it . Not adding enough fresh solder is why you found you didn't have enough flux from the solder and had to add flux. Tin the pads much thinner and you'll find you won't need to add flux and you won't get the solder creeping down the wires.
I saw you in my dream. We were flying together and you taught me a lot of things. Well it might be the effect of me watching your videos all day.
No one gaf
Np
@@hammz07someone woke on the wrong side of the bed ain’t it?
11:46 Everyone, if you make use of this file, please do it with the part submerged in water, because inhaling carbon dust can be really bad for your health.
Don’t know that
You should come back to Georgia Tech for some racing! We just recently got approved to host races in the Burger Bowl!
Yep, we are going to host a freedom spec qualifier and some multigp racing 🔥
That would be awesome!
Nice !
I (attempt) freestyle with a little racing drone.
We do as please.
How do I find more info on this? I live in the area and would love to come spectate when it happens.
Awesome video, and Thankyou for the support! Can’t wait to see you out on the track!
I love watching a master at work
I'm Early. Hi Joshua Sir (if you are reading this)! You really are a great teacher!
🤮
🤐.. There's people that believe his head and ego may explode if we encourage him.
Tread lightly here. 😁
@@MadDragon75 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
what a simp
pathetic
@@williamd2469 says people with "0" subscribers.
the red tape rage is real. you are triggering my OCD. thank you JB.
When will you do your perfect freestyle build?
Ghost hybrid video soon!! Thumbs up for that!
Josh! I know you get unwanted advice about how you build all the time, and I'm probably not even the first to mention this so I am sorry! When you are soldering at 21:33 you really should let the whole mass of solder come back up to temperature & become liquid again before you let off the heat. That seam between where it re-flowed and where it stayed solid is a cold joint and can crack.
Love ya bud, I think you have the best drone content in the business
Am I gonna learn something today, Joshua??
Nope!
I have learnd something today..!
EVERY day buddy. Every day.
I just bought some parts from Evan last weekend and built one myself. I love the switchback config... and bruh, those motors are some beasts!!
What's the weight of this build??? This looks sub 250g without a massive battery.
Is that right?
Yeah, that would be interesting to know, and maybe what the weight difference is.
This is 300g without a battery and around 150 to 500g with a battery.
@@JoshuaBardwell Wow!
It must be a beast!
I’ve been out of the hobby for a couple of years due to work overseas and there seems to be so much new stuff. Could you do a video recap of the biggest innovations and trends?
Which arm version did you use? SFG, Lite or Longback?
If you aren't using the blue TELEM wire, then why couldn't you have connected the green Serial wire to T3 instead of running it all the way across the board to T2?
Yeah. Umm. That would have been pretty smart. I didn't think to use T3 because it's normally used for SmartAudio and so my mind just sort of blocked it out.
Great build man I like the way you troubleshoot on camera instead of some how magically everything goes perfect like most build videos lol
Wait, people _don't_ like the red electrical tape? That's an odd thing to complain about. I think it looks good! Also it's your build, do what you want!
Simply the best intron on the channel ever 😄
🔋 pad you put on the bottom, I use a hole puncher or like a belt hole punch and make the holes the size of the head of the screws so you can tighten or remove the screws latter without out removing the 🔋 protector.
1. Buy expensive gear
2. Let it sit around until something else better comes out
3. Repeat
You mean FLY IT until something else better comes out?
@@ValFPV did he stutters?
One tip, if you use those connectors for motors - mark the ESC connector part that the top will always be the top. When you rotate it I when replacing the arm you will change the motor direction spin.
The connectors are keyed so you can't plug them in backwards.
Thx for the info. I had to had cheaper ones couse mine did not have those keys :)
you might of said it in the video but what arms did you get the SFG, lite or longback?
why do i feel like you're always speaking directly to me?!! lol good stuuf as usual
Nothing like a perfect fit. Files are nice for superior frames
Haha good one , 4 years later and still learning from you bro.. I’m building this one as I am the slowest pilot In Redding California.
Hello from Chico!
I killed a redux ESC and I never ever kill ESCs - the layers split very easily. Prob just a one-off - Great frame BTW!!
Hey Josh, cool video, as always! Make small cut-outs in the battery pad to make the scews accessible! ;-)
Omg that tip about plugging the empty connector in... So obvious but, dang. Have definitely been super frustrated at myself before for doing it backwards. And then the connection is never as good when you fix it
Dang, I'm going to swap the action camera mount on my Crux35 with a shark fin - that's awesome. I installed the ViFly Finder Mini in my Crux35 while I watched this. Thanks!
I understand that Nurk also used a connector from esc to motor which he says saves motors and esc from burning up in a hard crash due to the disconnect on impact.
Just buy a set of round leatherworking punches to make holes for screw access in battery pads, it’s such an easy solution :)
Please do the same build but with a Caddx Vista and let's see if you get better or worse times. Analog= lightweight/fuzzy. Digital= heavyweight/clarity. I wonder if seeing better will make up for the weight difference. My guess is that digital will give you better times even with the extra weight. Personally I feel that digital allows for me to see further into the future. Fly Great!
I learned about flux back when i started building drag slot car chassis...flux is an amazing chemical!
Oh! and every day I learn somethingS...right on this channel.
that hole in the mid plate you used for the capacitor zip tie is for that reason exactly!
Hey Joshua
I also want to build a Racing Quad, with the Switchback... But don't know if I should go for the F60 or the motors you used...
Hello and thank you for helping me though the learning process, all of it, not just this build. Would the Redux32 F4Nano be a good alternative if the F3 is still out of stock?
Yes for sure.
YES! Red tape = more power.
It came out nice and if u need to change the direction of the motor now with m90 u dont need to dissolder just unplug and turn it and plug it again and that that cool.
It's keyed. You don't plug it in the wrong way. The motor always spins the right direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell oh ok thank u for letting me know.
Twisting the motor wires may help reduce EMF radiation. A ferrite ring over them will help further.
Maybe cut two holes in the umagrip with a craft knife so you can get to the screws in center?
Best Blair witch ever.
Those MT30 plugs are so cool, new to me.
Damn you are teasing us about that new best freestyle kwad😂
thats what i was thinking!
I'ved learned something today! Great video JB.
Jeez JB! Great close up video.
This video makes me want to get in to FPV. Looks so simple to build, but I know nothing about the tech side of it. Good video! You got yourself a new sub.
That's what I did JUST JUMP IN THE WATER IS GREAT!!!
Just do it. You're always gonna run into some kind of problems in this hobby, but it's part of the process. And the feeling when everything works is the best!!
yeah I have always used liquid flux. People either never use it or use plumbers flux. it drives me nuts!
Josh, could you use a paper hole punch through the battery pad to maintain the ability to access those lower frame screws?
I was wondering what build you would be using at the race. Got my answer and a build video. Sweet. 💖🤓
I'd cut the gummy to the shape of the base plate and drill apertures so I can see the screws with paint or thin cut tape to see if the screws are walking out.
Looking from sideways, it seems like there is a good space under the ESC. Woudn't be better to pass the ESC-FC connecting wires from there? It would open up some space between FC and VTX, for better cooling of the VTX, less vibrations on the FC gyros??? 🤔
Great video👍 I always learn something today😉😄
so cool that u building a drone and im going to watch lol thank u. my firts kwad i build it because of ur videos the second i bouth it the sedora and now i own more or less between ten and eleven kwads thanks to u.
Great vid. Cant you sell a kit with everything in it? Or recommend a completed kit with receiver and goggles radio so you can set up and fly as a beginner
Flux is your best friend!
Looks so simple when you do it!
To access that difficult screw, use a low profile phillips wrench.... if one that thin exists; If not, create it...
What is the dry weight (quad without lipo and hd cam)? Also, what mah to choose if you go for 4s lipos?
Just under 300g dry. I suggest 1300 mAh 4S if you go that direction.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thx, perfect. In the mean time I saw reports on rotorbuild.com as low as 243gr with lightweight motors. 267 with "normal" motors. It's a special project to chase race cars, so I need continued speed on full throttle :). 500gr all in legal constraint here.
Joshua you forgot to put on bubby's spoiler! 😂 A pink spoiler gives 50% more power
Hope i will see such a spoiler your's next time :)
I will bring one for you at rampage Bardwell, it’ll give ya flying powere
It really is the secret to flow
@@BubbyFPV and the secret to speed! Take also another one with you for vanover!
These build videos are great! Thank you for sharing!
At the risk of sounding dumb here goes. I want to get into drone racing as a hobby. mostly just racing around my property with my kids (I'm an all or nothing kind of guy so i want a fast drone mostly to make it so my kids cant beat me..... ever). I have flown drones on may occasions (don't own one yet) so I'm not a newb to them, but I've never been on the assembly side and at this point have only ever picked up a soldering iron maybe twice (once it was off). I've decided the best way is to dive in and build from scratch (so I understand how they work and so I can repair as needed). I've been to countless sites and watched numerous videos but have yet to find a place that at least to me clearly spells out what's needed. These builds are awesome to watch but I feel like everyone in the drone community leaves out info some of us noobs don't understand. like for instance josh built this awesome race drone but what size battery did he use (wasn't in the build list and didn't hear him mention it in the video). how do you know what battery to pair with your FC/ESC? how do you know if the motors will generate enough lift? I've used some of the calculators online and they all say either poor flight time sub 7 minutes or they say the ESC is undersized.... I even tried to recreate a build form a video in one of the cals and it failed...
can anyone point me to a forum that has an in-depth walkthrough on spec-ing out a drone?
Battery: flyfive33.com/product/budget-1380mah-6s-150c-lipo-battery/
Good rule of thumb is the battery should be about 1/3 the total flying weight of the drone. Maybe a bit higher for an ultra-light racing drone.
How to choose motor kv: th-cam.com/video/E6nsJpuaTQc/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JoshuaBardwellLivestreamClips
How to select ESC amp rating: th-cam.com/video/YDIqx09GMFA/w-d-xo.html
It's basically impossible to put all the information you would need to 100% completely understand the build in one video. It would be 20 hours long. You kind of just have to dive in and pick stuff up as you go.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank your for the fast response. I do realize that it is impossible to put it all in one video, which is why I asked for a forum link in my post. does there happen to be a playlist build that starts at ground zero and shows how to work up to a full build?
please know I wasn't singling out your video out. it just happened to be the last video I watched.
@@JoshuaBardwell thank you so much!!
This playlist is more tailored for total beginners, but there is still lots more to learn. th-cam.com/video/2T_JC4v5T3E/w-d-xo.html
I like the tape! I use white personally
17:10 is why i bought a 5 pack of those pens. soooo convenient!
I am pretty sure that Drew is going to love that Red electrical tape 🥴
so happy to see this video. great job!
LOL.. Love the start of the vid JB 😁👍
If I didn’t buy expensive ass shit I wouldn’t use it as much! I know it sounds stupid but your rant to begin with is actually so so true for me personally! Thanks again for an awesome video
Adding capacitor is so confusing. I have seen people connecting negative of capacitor to positive side but JB is doing the opposite. What is the correct way to do it?
3:30 the rigs AUW is no less than 460g with a 3s battery on board.
Is that a fluxcapacatator as in the Delorean(BACK TO THE FUTURE) but for your droanelorean
Hi Joshua , wanted to ask, maybe in what video will you show how to make something from RushFpv electronic !? Lots of people used this electronic.
LOL .... Love the Tape. Bring it!!!
When using these connectors, you could have soldered the wires from the underside of the esc where the cables go under the esc so you don't have them hanging around outside
Hay Joshua Bardwell RVS includes motor screws and gives you the credit, just wanted you to know
So how did you get a Redux Air Redux32 ESC? Those along with the HeadsUp motors have been out of stock.
I found a tiny store that nobody has heard of, that had bought some inventory and still had them. And then I bought some. And then I told everybody in my Discord about it and now they're all gone. The 533 motors I just bought on the web site. They were in stock.
@BikeGuy_FPV he got it from throttleupUSA but he’s out of stock too. The semiconductor shortage is real. The ESCs will be back though. Joshua will be getting some, they’ll be better.
Why don't you use the T3 pad for ghost instead of T2? It's located perfectly.
Great video. I just picked up a racer too, definitely like that frame! Nice work 💯❤️
great soldering skills
Love how you troll the trolls! I say use the red tape in more areas!
Same problem with both the v1 and the pro: which 20*20 stack use 3mm screws? In my experience, none. They almost all all use M2 screws with soft mounting, resulting in 3 m width. So this frame tells you to get rid of the soft mounting then (unless using aikon fc's) ?
I know the Latency is at question, but what about doing this is a DJI digital quad using a Vista setup?
Awesome build, this frame is built like a flippin tank. I would be a little concerned about the ESC wires running directly over the gyro. Not twisting them and running them underneath the FC might be better. Also, the amount of solder for the motor and battery leads is a little excessive. Less is actually better, electricly and mechanicly. I, too, used to leave some slack in the motor wires but ended up never using it (I'm using race wire) so I switched to cutting them short.
Haha, Snorkl from the past was right for once. th-cam.com/video/CUZmU6lDy1s/w-d-xo.html
Nice build Joshua, thx for sharing it! how about the weight of the drone, could you please tell us? thx!
I think the redux ESC look- and specwise is like a Successor to the Lumenier Mini Razor Pro 4in1 20x20 F3 ESC that i am flying since september last year. I only managed to kill one of them out of my pack of racers so far.... pretty damn robust with the full size Fets.
I also added 15 x 100uF Ceramic capacitors to the two solder rails on the bottom of the mini razor.
I saw you cut that Ghost antenna mount...😳😳😳😳😯😯😯🇬🇧..... Where's my Fridge scene..?...lol..
Soft mounted a cap brilliant
add a throttle cap, start at 70%. try H7 falco x baby.
Looking forward to seeing your betaflight setup video .
Sure titanium screws are lightweight but can we talk about how disproportionately awesome they look in that red color????
I was wondering what was up with all those race gates.
Thank you for the make the nice information video for us. I think you're good at making it neatly and delicately. I had one more question about the build video. why don't you use aio board instead of using fc and esc stec?. I think you can reduce space and weight a lot...
AIO have reduced durability.
Nice! What about a video making one for long-range? Thanks!
what propellers do you recommend for this build tho ???????????? and what battery
How do you avoid that solder creep. I t happens to me with XT60 leads where it goes about 1/2" or so. It's so annoying.
Thank you!! I Now know my build 👍🏼
Champion !