Good setup. Reminds me to something similar for my D3. And if nothing else its a good reminder that I need to get a bunch of joiners and some spare air-line to keep as spares on board 'just in case'. cheers.
Great tutorial for the EAS guys. My current P38 is on Old Man Emu coils. No fuss. I have another P38 that I plan to replicate this great bypass valve system. Cheers
Hey m8, by any chance can you tell me what OME can you fit under them with no adjustable panhards, maybe even have the SKU's for them? Appreciate it if you'd come back, TIA.
Good vid Keith. The stainless steel is a great idea, didn't think about that on mine but will change the plastic ones out as we'll be doing a couple of trips this summer where it may get a bit hot lol.
hi keithy i really like this set up, where did you get the air block for the gauge and the fittings ? how many outlets are there in it ? just at a glance it looks like 4 on top top do they have tyre valves? 4 bottom for the hose fittings and one for the gauge ? thanks Mark
G’day mark, thanks for singing out mate. Pirtek will have all the bits for the setup! They’re 6mm air lines, the fittings are simple 6mm push fittings (stainless steel), the valve block I made is just alloy that was laying around, and I’ve got ball valves between the original spring outlets and the bypass system. I have 5 lines to the bypass kit - one of them is from the compressor line to the tank (so I can see how much pressure is in the tank. All fittings run from the valve block in the engine bay. At the bypass valve block there is a Tee for every spring and the pressure tank. That is - 3 fitting per item that (so in my case a total of 15 holes in the block). All valves are Schroder valves (the same as what you’d pump your tyres up with). I hope that helps mate!
I guess the lazy solution would be to throw four 6mm push fot Schrader valves in your toolkit. If you have a problem just pop the hoses out of the valve block, push on the valves and pump them up. Not as convenient if you have a problem however.
Yeah that’s right, it’ll be a good option to get you out of trouble quick. The main thing is to get yourself out of trouble - it doesn’t have to be a long term fix.
The pressure in the bags is dependent on the weight in the vehicle. For instance, when I’m loaded on a 4wd trip, my front airbags only require around 65psi to be at or around height, but the rears require 105psi. The thing to remember, the weight determines the pressure, but the the VOLUME determines the vehicle height.
Thanks for taking the trouble to post the footage. You're good at it. I did mr radius arms bushes thanks to your realistic no poncey approach. With this schrader system i'm about to rip off, what entertainment do you get on the dashboard? do you need to pull timer relay, fusebox relay or fuse? best regards. P.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. I’m glad the vids have been of some help to you. The dash lights and warnings all depend on what you’re doing with the bypass system. If you plan to use it on a permanent basis, you’re likely going to get the ‘slow 55km/h’ alarm on the dash at some stage. If you’re still using the EAS as normal and having the Schrader setup as a backup, you shouldn’t get any alarms at all. The EAS will still operate as normal until you begin isolating things when trouble strikes.
Hi Keithy, Loved your set up. are you located in Queensland by chance? I just purchased a P38 and trying not to convert to springs. is your set up ok to by pass permanently or is it a once in a while in case EAS fails? Thanks mate David From Gold Coast
G’day mate, thanks heaps 👍 I am up in North Queensland funny enough. I did use it permanently bypassed for a bit in 2019 while I sorted through some valve block issues, it was fine to use like that, although it’s only a backup plan for me.
Hey mate I have a Range Rover Vogue it has the 4.4 BMW engine. I'm having shit loads of issues with mine, I heard air leaking from the passenger side air bag from the top, any I put a brand new air spring in.. still no luck, even if I bypass the compressor. I hear you are Australian? I live over near Byron Bay.. I'd be happy to pay you to come and rig up a better system?
G’day Paul, it sounds like you’re in a spot of bother with your Range Rover - never good to hear. There could be more at play, and with your L322 Range Rover, I’m not sure entirely if a bypass system is ok, given the independent suspension setup on it (although I’d imagine it to be possible). I am up in North QLD, so it is a wee bit of distance from Byron sorry mate!
Hello, first of all, I am very specific about your videos.... I am doing the exact same troubleshooting system at the suspension level. but I can't understand the blue pipe is it connected in the solenoid valve block .. can you give me more explanations at this level thank you very much
G’day mate, the blue pipe in the engine bay runs from a “tee” on the air line that feeds the pressure tank. It’s purpose it to allow me to see the air pressure in the EAS tank.
Hey i know its been a while since you posted but what does measuring the Air tanks PSI do? Why is it important to know how much pressure it has. Just curious, instead of using a pressure gauge cant we make a compressor adapter to fill up the schraders next to it? Thanks
G’day mate, Measuring the pressure in the tank is a very important tool for diagnosing issues within the EAS system. For instance, if you have a worn or faulty air compressor, you can watch to see if the pressure increases while the compressor runs. You can also monitor the pressure over time to see if there’s a leak in the compressor system or valve block, or tank. It will also allow you to eliminate some faults, for example if you receive an error message saying a particular air spring fails to raise, it may tell you that it’s not actually a fault with that air spring, but rather the fact that there’s no pressure in the air tank (which would indicate a problem with the compressor, or a leak in that side of the system). You certainly could make an adaptor to manually inflate from your own compressor if you didn’t have a secondary compressor available while running the EAS manually. I hope this helps mate 👍
hi the fittings you used what size are on the ball fittings are they 1/4 or1/8 ive done a couple sets to get out of bother but seeing yours now i dont have the ball valves in place so can mod them before fitting it all in
@@Keithy_W ye have the 6mm pipe etc was just wondering about the screw on bits but think i worked it out now allways something with them to do same as anything thanks anyway and good vids and info you put on
Hello sir I am the owner of a Range R P 38, last week my P 38 who got stuck in a low position he does not want in high position .. but the compressor turns it makes noise the car remains in low position ... cordially
G’day mate! There could be a number of issues, it’s hard to diagnose via messaging. The compressor may be operating but not pumping. If this is the case the compressor may need to be rebuilt or replaced. It could also be a faulty sensor or inlet valve, but it’s more likely the compressor. Does the suspension attempt to raise at all or just sits at low height? There are a number of interlocks as well, such and the brake switch or any door being open.
Better yet, why not get rid of the air block, tank, pump and most of the connectors and fill the bags manually directly from a junction box with a heavy duty compressor? You’ll drop a lot of weight and simplify the system hugely.
As easy and simple as that sounds, it’d need constant adjustment to compensate for weight. It’s a great means of backup, but not for everyday use. Cheers man 👍
G’day mate! No issues at all with the quick connect fittings. It’s a good idea to use stainless ones so they don’t get effected by the heat of the engine bay. I’m unsure of the brand, they are good quality ones.
@@Keithy_W thanks for the reply! Found a Pirtek in Cairns and got everything I needed in stainless. Just have the scraders direct fitted to the lines rn until I get the manifold constructed. Do you know what the max psi is that the airbags can handle? Also, where did you get your bullbar? Having a tough time finding them for the p38.
Good to hear mate, I’m glad you got it sorted 👍 I wouldn’t take the bags past 150psi personally. The little EAS compressor pulls up at that pressure anyway. I’ve seen as high as 110psi in my rear bags before, but again, more than that and I’d be worried about blowing one. My bullbar is a factory P38 bullbar. You may get lucky and find one up there. I’ve seen a few for sale down in Sydney and Melbourne as well. I hope you can find one. They are quite strong even though they don’t look it.
Good setup. Reminds me to something similar for my D3.
And if nothing else its a good reminder that I need to get a bunch of joiners and some spare air-line to keep as spares on board 'just in case'.
cheers.
Great tutorial for the EAS guys. My current P38 is on Old Man Emu coils. No fuss. I have another P38 that I plan to replicate this great bypass valve system. Cheers
Hey m8, by any chance can you tell me what OME can you fit under them with no adjustable panhards, maybe even have the SKU's for them? Appreciate it if you'd come back, TIA.
You’d get a standard or +2” spring in there on standard panhards mate.
Good vid Keith. The stainless steel is a great idea, didn't think about that on mine but will change the plastic ones out as we'll be doing a couple of trips this summer where it may get a bit hot lol.
hi keithy i really like this set up, where did you get the air block for the gauge and the fittings ? how many outlets are there in it ? just at a glance it looks like 4 on top top do they have tyre valves? 4 bottom for the hose fittings and one for the gauge ? thanks Mark
G’day mark, thanks for singing out mate.
Pirtek will have all the bits for the setup!
They’re 6mm air lines, the fittings are simple 6mm push fittings (stainless steel), the valve block I made is just alloy that was laying around, and I’ve got ball valves between the original spring outlets and the bypass system.
I have 5 lines to the bypass kit - one of them is from the compressor line to the tank (so I can see how much pressure is in the tank. All fittings run from the valve block in the engine bay.
At the bypass valve block there is a Tee for every spring and the pressure tank. That is - 3 fitting per item that (so in my case a total of 15 holes in the block). All valves are Schroder valves (the same as what you’d pump your tyres up with).
I hope that helps mate!
@@Keithy_W sure does thanks mate ,cheers
WELL DONE Top man ,
I guess the lazy solution would be to throw four 6mm push fot Schrader valves in your toolkit.
If you have a problem just pop the hoses out of the valve block, push on the valves and pump them up.
Not as convenient if you have a problem however.
Yeah that’s right, it’ll be a good option to get you out of trouble quick. The main thing is to get yourself out of trouble - it doesn’t have to be a long term fix.
Thanks for this! What pressure do you put in the bags when you do this?
The pressure in the bags is dependent on the weight in the vehicle. For instance, when I’m loaded on a 4wd trip, my front airbags only require around 65psi to be at or around height, but the rears require 105psi.
The thing to remember, the weight determines the pressure, but the the VOLUME determines the vehicle height.
Thanks for taking the trouble to post the footage. You're good at it. I did mr radius arms bushes thanks to your realistic no poncey approach. With this schrader system i'm about to rip off, what entertainment do you get on the dashboard? do you need to pull timer relay, fusebox relay or fuse? best regards. P.
Thanks mate, appreciate it. I’m glad the vids have been of some help to you.
The dash lights and warnings all depend on what you’re doing with the bypass system. If you plan to use it on a permanent basis, you’re likely going to get the ‘slow 55km/h’ alarm on the dash at some stage. If you’re still using the EAS as normal and having the Schrader setup as a backup, you shouldn’t get any alarms at all. The EAS will still operate as normal until you begin isolating things when trouble strikes.
Hi Keithy, Loved your set up. are you located in Queensland by chance? I just purchased a P38 and trying not to convert to springs. is your set up ok to by pass permanently or is it a once in a while in case EAS fails? Thanks mate David From Gold Coast
G’day mate, thanks heaps 👍 I am up in North Queensland funny enough.
I did use it permanently bypassed for a bit in 2019 while I sorted through some valve block issues, it was fine to use like that, although it’s only a backup plan for me.
Hey mate I have a Range Rover Vogue it has the 4.4 BMW engine. I'm having shit loads of issues with mine, I heard air leaking from the passenger side air bag from the top, any I put a brand new air spring in.. still no luck, even if I bypass the compressor. I hear you are Australian? I live over near Byron Bay.. I'd be happy to pay you to come and rig up a better system?
G’day Paul, it sounds like you’re in a spot of bother with your Range Rover - never good to hear. There could be more at play, and with your L322 Range Rover, I’m not sure entirely if a bypass system is ok, given the independent suspension setup on it (although I’d imagine it to be possible).
I am up in North QLD, so it is a wee bit of distance from Byron sorry mate!
Hello, first of all, I am very specific about your videos....
I am doing the exact same troubleshooting system at the suspension level.
but I can't understand the blue pipe is it connected in the solenoid valve block .. can you give me more explanations at this level thank you very much
G’day mate, the blue pipe in the engine bay runs from a “tee” on the air line that feeds the pressure tank. It’s purpose it to allow me to see the air pressure in the EAS tank.
Hey i know its been a while since you posted but what does measuring the Air tanks PSI do? Why is it important to know how much pressure it has. Just curious, instead of using a pressure gauge cant we make a compressor adapter to fill up the schraders next to it? Thanks
G’day mate,
Measuring the pressure in the tank is a very important tool for diagnosing issues within the EAS system. For instance, if you have a worn or faulty air compressor, you can watch to see if the pressure increases while the compressor runs. You can also monitor the pressure over time to see if there’s a leak in the compressor system or valve block, or tank. It will also allow you to eliminate some faults, for example if you receive an error message saying a particular air spring fails to raise, it may tell you that it’s not actually a fault with that air spring, but rather the fact that there’s no pressure in the air tank (which would indicate a problem with the compressor, or a leak in that side of the system).
You certainly could make an adaptor to manually inflate from your own compressor if you didn’t have a secondary compressor available while running the EAS manually.
I hope this helps mate 👍
@@Keithy_W That makes much more sense mate and I appreciate your quick feedback and response!
My pleasure mate 👍
hi the fittings you used what size are on the ball fittings are they 1/4 or1/8 ive done a couple sets to get out of bother but seeing yours now i dont have the ball valves in place so can mod them before fitting it all in
G’day mate, the air lines are 6mm for the air springs, so the fittings are also 6mm push-fittings.
@@Keithy_W ye have the 6mm pipe etc was just wondering about the screw on bits but think i worked it out now allways something with them to do same as anything thanks anyway and good vids and info you put on
Good to hear mate, apologies about the confusion on the fittings!
Can i baypass slow 35 faoul without eas kicker or cable thanks
Yes you can. As long as you have a way to manually pump the springs up
Nice way to add redundancy
Hello sir I am the owner of a Range R P 38, last week my P 38 who got stuck in a low position he does not want in high position ..
but the compressor turns it makes noise the car remains in low position ... cordially
G’day mate!
There could be a number of issues, it’s hard to diagnose via messaging.
The compressor may be operating but not pumping. If this is the case the compressor may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
It could also be a faulty sensor or inlet valve, but it’s more likely the compressor.
Does the suspension attempt to raise at all or just sits at low height?
There are a number of interlocks as well, such and the brake switch or any door being open.
Better yet, why not get rid of the air block, tank, pump and most of the connectors and fill the bags manually directly from a junction box with a heavy duty compressor? You’ll drop a lot of weight and simplify the system hugely.
As easy and simple as that sounds, it’d need constant adjustment to compensate for weight. It’s a great means of backup, but not for everyday use. Cheers man 👍
Hello, no leak issues with quick couplings ? What brand do you use ?
G’day mate!
No issues at all with the quick connect fittings. It’s a good idea to use stainless ones so they don’t get effected by the heat of the engine bay.
I’m unsure of the brand, they are good quality ones.
@@Keithy_W where did you source them from? I'm up in Cairns and am having difficulty finding any push fittings domestically.
G’day mate, I got them from Pirtek in Townsville
@@Keithy_W thanks for the reply! Found a Pirtek in Cairns and got everything I needed in stainless. Just have the scraders direct fitted to the lines rn until I get the manifold constructed. Do you know what the max psi is that the airbags can handle?
Also, where did you get your bullbar? Having a tough time finding them for the p38.
Good to hear mate, I’m glad you got it sorted 👍
I wouldn’t take the bags past 150psi personally. The little EAS compressor pulls up at that pressure anyway. I’ve seen as high as 110psi in my rear bags before, but again, more than that and I’d be worried about blowing one.
My bullbar is a factory P38 bullbar. You may get lucky and find one up there. I’ve seen a few for sale down in Sydney and Melbourne as well. I hope you can find one. They are quite strong even though they don’t look it.