nice tips. The rubber pipe as stethoscope is genius. I actually have a car stethoscope so will use that but did not even think about it till you mentioned the rubber hose trick.
I haven't watched yet, but the RRC air suspension system was very similar to the P38. I still have the software and bits somewhere as well as my prized tool. A piece of wood marked up as my air suspension calibration stick. Marked with access, standard and high ride heights at each wing. Simply park on level ground and walk round each corner to check. I must hang it up on my garage wall again. Good luck with the P38 set up.,
That's on the todo list, I plan on cutting some wood to put under the bump stops for calibrating the suspension. Another thing you can do on these aswell, you can swap the hight sensor round by flipping them up side down, it's like having a brand new sensor because it only uses half of the sensors range, by flipping it you use the other half that's not been used yet 😊
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips I still have a picture of the sizes for the blocks to be cut to somewhere if you need it. I did own a P38 (Pre production M202CVC) for a brief time. I only ever drove it from one side of my car park at work to the other side as it had no MOT. It is currently under restoration I believe.
Hello, My P38 2.5 DSE from 2000 has a strange symptom. When stopped for a few hours the front suspension goes up, when I open the door and put it to work and close the door immediately the front goes down. In these situations, the suspension indicates a high position and immediately returns to normal when the front goes down. It has a new compressor and height sensors and the valve body o-rings have been replaced. There are no leaks because it has already had the valve “ebay pipes” connected to each circuit. Thank you for your collaboration. Good trails.
Definitely a strange one, when any door is open the suspension shouldn't move, sounds more like a software or electrical issue, possibly related to either the suspension ECU or the drive pack. But apart from that I'm afraid I can't answer that one sorry.
i have a really weird thing happening with my EAS system. So one day randomly the entire system dropped to the floor. Started off with the basics as you said in the video. Checked the compressor to see if it was even filling the reservoir, which it was not, even though the system was empty the compressor was not kicking in to fill the reservoir. Brought it to a RR specialist and he said that it was the EAS relay under the seat. i bought a new one of those fitted it and still no result. we manually filled the reservoir with air and as expected the system operated fine but the compressor would not kick in when the pressure dropped below 125PSi. I then bought a reconditioned air compressor and once again no result. I bought the diagnostics tool for the EAS system and there was no faults, and even when in the diagnostic system normally it would allow you to manually turn on the compressor but that would not even work. i was thinking that it could be a pressure sensor but where is that located on the car? surely that wouldn't cause the compressor just to stop working. I'm in a hole at the moment and I'm stumped any ideas. (sorry for how long this is)
The pressure switch is located at the bottom of the valve block. You would have to remove the valve block to gain access to it. Personally, I would find someone with a Nanocom. If you can afford to get one for yourself, l highly recommend them. That way, you can see what pressure sensor is doing. I think when you manually activate the compressor, it should override the sensor and run (i may be wrong). I also think there's another relay under the bonnet for the compressor. it might be worth checking that. th-cam.com/video/NQAt7fdPMMo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=scCWzFLRPoSAhmGL Appart from that, I'm afraid I can't be much more help without looking at it.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips i will have a look at that now. I checked that other relay and that was fine before and with this new compressor the pressure sensor should be fine but then again i have not checked that myself yet. A nanocom would be extremely handy to have as well. thanks very much for your help
Great Video, we have one here, 2000 P38, that the entry light is always on, even when level road or extended height is selected, have found small air bubbles at valve block hoses, but don't think that is the issue. Any ideas about the entry light on continuously ? Thx Joe
Right ok, when you try to raise it to normal hight does it start flashing? Entry light on is because its sat on the lowest setting and cant rais so thats normal for that light to be on, when you press to rais the standard hight light should start flashing. Sounds like to me it's not building up any pressure
Small leaks can cause alot of issues with the EAS so would be a good place to start. Have you got access to a Nanocom? See if you can manual raise it with the Nanocom, the light should flash indicating its trying to rais, so this is confusing me a bit
thanks for great video, one question regarding the relay EAS if you dont whant to take it out, is it the black wire you can disconnect to stop the fuction of it ? Im thinking of placing a switch to it to turn it off. thanks Bjarni
Glad you enjoyed the video. Iv not actually had a look at the wiring and don't have the car with me (currently on holiday). Best advice I could really give is to join one of the Facebook groups, and see if anyone else has done something similar.
So yeah if it's the bag it's self that has failed, then it will need replacing. You can't do any repairs to the bag, and even if you could I wouldn't want to, last thing you want is the bag to go pop when flying down the motorway, as that would be disastrous.
You can get replacement bags for about £70 each, you have 3 main choices, Dunlop (cheapest what I'm using), arnott gen 2s and arnott gen 3 airbags, the gen 3s are the most expensive but are an upgrade, I can't comment on the ride quality (not used them) but have heard they are good quality. They also have an increased length so can be used in line with a 2 inch suspension lift. The bags are relatively easy to replace, can even do it with the wheels still on if needs be. And another things to be cautious off, if you ever replace the hydraulic shocks, make sure they are standard length NOT the extended 2 inch lift shocks (unless your doing a lift) as this can over extend the bags, and lift them of there pedestal.
So you would need either an EAS kicker (look on ebay) it's a device you plugin into the car turn the car on for 30 seconds and off again and it should automatically reset the EAS. Or if you can afford it a Nanocom from black box, Nanocom is a full diagnostic machine not cheap but 100% worth it. But I do recommend carrying around an EAS kicker if you can get one
nice tips. The rubber pipe as stethoscope is genius. I actually have a car stethoscope so will use that but did not even think about it till you mentioned the rubber hose trick.
Thank you, a little trick I learnt from dad, has come in very useful 😅
Your strategies on the EAS are ingenious. Great tutorial. Very helpful. Thank you
Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful 😊
I haven't watched yet, but the RRC air suspension system was very similar to the P38. I still have the software and bits somewhere as well as my prized tool. A piece of wood marked up as my air suspension calibration stick. Marked with access, standard and high ride heights at each wing. Simply park on level ground and walk round each corner to check. I must hang it up on my garage wall again. Good luck with the P38 set up.,
That's on the todo list, I plan on cutting some wood to put under the bump stops for calibrating the suspension. Another thing you can do on these aswell, you can swap the hight sensor round by flipping them up side down, it's like having a brand new sensor because it only uses half of the sensors range, by flipping it you use the other half that's not been used yet 😊
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips I still have a picture of the sizes for the blocks to be cut to somewhere if you need it. I did own a P38 (Pre production M202CVC) for a brief time. I only ever drove it from one side of my car park at work to the other side as it had no MOT. It is currently under restoration I believe.
Hello,
My P38 2.5 DSE from 2000 has a strange symptom. When stopped for a few hours the front suspension goes up, when I open the door and put it to work and close the door immediately the front goes down. In these situations, the suspension indicates a high position and immediately returns to normal when the front goes down.
It has a new compressor and height sensors and the valve body o-rings have been replaced.
There are no leaks because it has already had the valve “ebay pipes” connected to each circuit.
Thank you for your collaboration.
Good trails.
Definitely a strange one, when any door is open the suspension shouldn't move, sounds more like a software or electrical issue, possibly related to either the suspension ECU or the drive pack. But apart from that I'm afraid I can't answer that one sorry.
i have a really weird thing happening with my EAS system. So one day randomly the entire system dropped to the floor. Started off with the basics as you said in the video. Checked the compressor to see if it was even filling the reservoir, which it was not, even though the system was empty the compressor was not kicking in to fill the reservoir. Brought it to a RR specialist and he said that it was the EAS relay under the seat. i bought a new one of those fitted it and still no result. we manually filled the reservoir with air and as expected the system operated fine but the compressor would not kick in when the pressure dropped below 125PSi. I then bought a reconditioned air compressor and once again no result. I bought the diagnostics tool for the EAS system and there was no faults, and even when in the diagnostic system normally it would allow you to manually turn on the compressor but that would not even work. i was thinking that it could be a pressure sensor but where is that located on the car? surely that wouldn't cause the compressor just to stop working. I'm in a hole at the moment and I'm stumped any ideas. (sorry for how long this is)
The pressure switch is located at the bottom of the valve block. You would have to remove the valve block to gain access to it. Personally, I would find someone with a Nanocom. If you can afford to get one for yourself, l highly recommend them. That way, you can see what pressure sensor is doing. I think when you manually activate the compressor, it should override the sensor and run (i may be wrong). I also think there's another relay under the bonnet for the compressor. it might be worth checking that.
th-cam.com/video/NQAt7fdPMMo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=scCWzFLRPoSAhmGL
Appart from that, I'm afraid I can't be much more help without looking at it.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips i will have a look at that now. I checked that other relay and that was fine before and with this new compressor the pressure sensor should be fine but then again i have not checked that myself yet. A nanocom would be extremely handy to have as well. thanks very much for your help
Hi,car tilts to one side when parked but raises on normal height when on idle.Checked air leaks none,Should all sides lower when parked??
Great Video, we have one here, 2000 P38, that the entry light is always on, even when level road or extended height is selected, have found small air bubbles at valve block hoses, but don't think that is the issue. Any ideas about the entry light on continuously ? Thx Joe
When you say entry light do you mean the EAS light is on the lowest hight setting permanently? Does it lift when you try raise it?
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips YES, LOWEST LIGHT, DOES NOT RAISE.
Right ok, when you try to raise it to normal hight does it start flashing? Entry light on is because its sat on the lowest setting and cant rais so thats normal for that light to be on, when you press to rais the standard hight light should start flashing. Sounds like to me it's not building up any pressure
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips STAYS ON CONSTANT. WE REPLACED REAR BAGS, STILL NO CHANGE ? WOULD SLIGHT LEAKAGE AT VALVE BLOCK HOSES CAUSE THIS ?
Small leaks can cause alot of issues with the EAS so would be a good place to start. Have you got access to a Nanocom? See if you can manual raise it with the Nanocom, the light should flash indicating its trying to rais, so this is confusing me a bit
thanks for great video, one question regarding the relay EAS if you dont whant to take it out, is it the black wire you can disconnect to stop the fuction of it ? Im thinking of placing a switch to it to turn it off. thanks Bjarni
Glad you enjoyed the video. Iv not actually had a look at the wiring and don't have the car with me (currently on holiday). Best advice I could really give is to join one of the Facebook groups, and see if anyone else has done something similar.
Simply remove the large black relay under the Passenger seat
What is the issue if front drops back doesn't or vice versa please
Hello! Struggling to understand your question? Could you try again?
What do you do if it's the bags - replace the air shock? Or can you repair the air shock?
So yeah if it's the bag it's self that has failed, then it will need replacing. You can't do any repairs to the bag, and even if you could I wouldn't want to, last thing you want is the bag to go pop when flying down the motorway, as that would be disastrous.
You can get replacement bags for about £70 each, you have 3 main choices, Dunlop (cheapest what I'm using), arnott gen 2s and arnott gen 3 airbags, the gen 3s are the most expensive but are an upgrade, I can't comment on the ride quality (not used them) but have heard they are good quality. They also have an increased length so can be used in line with a 2 inch suspension lift.
The bags are relatively easy to replace, can even do it with the wheels still on if needs be.
And another things to be cautious off, if you ever replace the hydraulic shocks, make sure they are standard length NOT the extended 2 inch lift shocks (unless your doing a lift) as this can over extend the bags, and lift them of there pedestal.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips
what about resetting the EAS warning on the dash. Does that require some electronic input still?
So you would need either an EAS kicker (look on ebay) it's a device you plugin into the car turn the car on for 30 seconds and off again and it should automatically reset the EAS. Or if you can afford it a Nanocom from black box, Nanocom is a full diagnostic machine not cheap but 100% worth it. But I do recommend carrying around an EAS kicker if you can get one
Highly informative, however, filming during daylight might have helped...