sounds like my story exactly. Even watch other of your videos! wish I'd found this one on Tuesday. I've spent close to $700 and am just getting to the IDM!
They’ll pass. The idm going has two signs. One’s a pcm fault as well. From what I’ve read they usually go within close time to each other. About to do both myself.
I have a 95 and the idm is on the drivers side fender well by airbox also... 3 bolts take off.. plus one connector bolt plug.. My idm cost 260 bucks at autozone...
I have a 94 Ford diesel f250. Lately , It will start in the morning to go to work or run around but after I shut it off, it wants to crank but wont start unless I let it set for the whole day. When it starts it runs fine, but it seems like it could be an IDM problem. and i have 200K on it.
Thanks for this video, very useful. I suspect this is my issue. I have a '00 that has been dropping a bank of injectors and throwing an SES light. Within 5 min, and with me doing nothing, it smooths out and the light clears. I pulled the sides and it's giving me an idm code. Doing a buzz test failed a few times (driver's side) but now passes each time. This all started after I took my truck through a car wash for the first time since I have owned it. I did UVC harnesses this winter with units from international so I don't think that's the issue. Sound like I'm on the right track? Truck's been so reliable in the past, I can't stand intermittent issues that fix themselves :/ Thanks bud!
my 7.3 occasionally falls to idle for a few seconds, and the "service engine soon" light comes on. It always goes back to power after 4 or 5 seconds, but when you're under a traffic light in a busy intersection, it gets embarrassing quick. I service it with the best of synthetic oils every 3500 miles, and the engine only has about 90,000 miles on it. Is there a way to reset this when you change oil?
I hade the same problem. I replaced the Cam Position Sensor (CPS) and fixed the problem. It was about $20. It's a bit tricky to get to, but not too bad. Just need an 8 mm socket with a 3 in extension.
I'm in the same situation as you.. i have an Early 99 and want to change it out with the 220volt of the newer model.. did you ever figure out if its as easy as a swap or is there something else involved? thanks in advance.
I have to replace my IDM the reinstall it says I have to follow a RELEARN PROCEDURE FOR THE PATS SYSTEM but I don't have a PATS SYSTEM because I don't have a chipped key so after install is there anything I need to do before starting my truck I don't want to have to buy a new IDM if do it wrong
at 40 degrees my truck has trouble starting. it didnt do it before now it does. i have changed glow plugs and glow plug relays and still have the same problems. any suggestions?
My trucks doing the same thing🤦♂️ I'm about to get new injectors😭 or may think about buying a PCM/IDM first🤔 I have brand new IPR valve brand new ICP sensor two brand new batteries brand new relay 8 brand new glow plugs and one new head gasket with connectors..... It can be 40 degrees outside my truck will be plugged in and it smokes like crazy and doesn't start........😭😭😭😭😭
Hi and thanks for the video i have a 2002 f350 7.3 with new injectora new wire harness new glow plugs and is having a hard start with a lot smoke and than after 3 minutes rpm normalize and truck runs fine could be the idm???? Thanks
Do you need to do anything different if your truck is tuned. I got an early 99 that's tuned on tow mode and want to put a late 99 idm on it. Still plug and play?
An IDM can shut down some cylinders but I would check the injector harness under your valve cover, they are notorious for going bad even ford had a wedge kit for the plug to the injector harness.
what year is yours? I have a 97 and it appears to be accessible from under the hood bolted to the inside of front panel. I replaced both uvhc and fuel pump. It still skips at about 2000 rpms or under a load, but not always. IDM???
Check your CPS (Camshaft position sensor). That is by far the most common failure in a 7.3 aside from extreme oil consumption in higher mileage engines that most guys can figure out. That isn'w what we are talking about however lol. Fuel filter and CPS is where you should start Brobdingnagian.
Yeah mines doing this just replaced valve cover gasket guess I should have gave it the 50 cent treatment. It's cold out now blame it.... Hope I haven't screwed my IDM in the process.
Hope it helped , lots more how to videos are on the way and coming soon a actual show pilot will be finish this month and first show will be posted here
Hey everyone ill also be shooting a how to make your own compression tester for the superduty and a really cool how to make your own cheetah also coming up how to rebuild your cav/lucas injection pumps ill be posting a fund me link for some really cool "How to" videos here in the future
Stuff like this is why it is easier, faster, and cheaper to just take the truck in and let a professional Power Stroke mechanic diagnose and fix it. Not just a "mechanic" but a specialist that works on diesels daily that knows all the tricks and quirks. More specifically the Power Stroke diesel engines. You spent "x" buying and changing all this shit that wasn't the problem at all. As a full time licensed HVAC technician, I will say electrical and sensor gremlins are a bitch. You really need to have the proper training, knowledge and equipment/tools to troubleshoot this stuff. Otherwise you are throwing twenty, fifty and hundred dollar bills into a river and watching them float away. Pretty soon you have $500+ bucks into it with it STILL NOT FIXED when a $39.95 part was all that you needed......along with a ton of experience and training to DISCOVER it...... I do a lot of my own mechanical work on my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3L Power Stroke. When something is beyond my ability I am qualified enough to step down and let someone else take a look. I'm having a issue right now with my glow plug relays that keep burning out. I've replaced them twice in the last six months. This problem is clearly something more that I'm tired of messing with and will be seeking their knowledge on the matter soon. This summer I replaced my own 8 brass injector cups (the tool to do this was $375), 8 glow plugs, all 8 injector o-rings, turbo and pedestal o-rings/clamps, all intercooler, intake and turbo boots, water pump, starter, auxiliary alternator, serpentine belt, all idler and tensioner pulleys, ICP sensor, EBP sensor and tube, radiator degas bottle, all hoses, flushed cooling system, block and changed antifreeze, replaced both batteries, oil and filter change, transmission filter and fluid change, new K&N air filter.............and a few more things I am tired of typing thus far. I have about $2,400 in materials/parts here and did all the work/labor myself. My truck was down a day short of a month while doing the work myself after hours and when weather (lots of rain this year) as well as stifling heat (95F+) permitted. I'm tired of fucking with this truck and will be taking it to the Ford garage soon. Every once in awhile you just have to throw in the towel and let the PROFESSIONALS do it..... I see it everyday in my line of work. They replaced every part on that furnace trying to correct a dirty flame sensor or leaves blocking the fresh air intake and tripping the pressure switch....etc...etc... Took me less than 5 minutes to discover and correct it. Our service call is $84 an hour. A annual service to the furnace is $99 and would have corrected it during the course of our checklist and service. How many people go dumping freon into an A/C when all it has is a dirty outside coil or a dirty air filter inside? I've seen A/Cs junked because it had a blown capacitor and someone thought the compressor had burned out because they weren't smart enough to check for that or had a meter that could read MFD...... "A man has got to know his limitations!" ~ Clint Eastwood Dirty Harry Magnum Force 1972
A good rule of thumb to follow an old timer told me a long time ago was that if it will take you more than a good solid weekend to complete.....maybe a week tops, you should just take it in and let them do it for you. Brakes, shocks, belts, alternators, starters, water pump, hoses, oil/filter changes etc...etc.. are a ripoff at the dealer or garage. As I said I already replaced the glow plugs and have replaced the GPR twice. I also removed the corroded fusible link on the driver side upper fender well that feeds the fuse panel and hardwired it with a brass heavy cable connector and heavy duty plastic shrink tube. I also replaced the chassis ground wire to the frame under the passenger door. It's when you get into "more" is when you get into trouble. My boss stopped by on a Friday night when I still had the engine tore down with all the injectors out and the top and front end tore off as well as the turbo off. His comment: "Jesus what a clusterfuck!" My reply.....I know! All this stuff needed replaced on a early build 2002 that was built in November 2001. Hell the truck is 15 years old and has 162k on it. I'm just sick of working on it by now and the basics aren't working for this particular issue. I plan to follow this advice in the future.....:) RIP Tom
People are simply parts changers when they either don't diagnose the problem, or diagnose the problem incorrectly. We have all done it, because we were trying to save money. It sux doesn't it?
Www.SnacksForMe.com
Excellent Video! Super Helpful.
sounds like my story exactly. Even watch other of your videos! wish I'd found this one on Tuesday. I've spent close to $700 and am just getting to the IDM!
Hey Brother! Thank you so much.this was very helpful
Would the injectors pass or fail a buzz test with the bad IDM like that. Would that be a good test troubleshoot an IDM
I was wondering the same thing because mine is currently pulling the code for left and right bank on mine
They'll pass it. Mine did
They’ll pass. The idm going has two signs. One’s a pcm fault as well. From what I’ve read they usually go within close time to each other. About to do both myself.
How do you determine whether you have a 100, 110, or 120 IDM in your SuperDuty?
OBS are 100v early 1999 is 110v and late 99 and on is 120v. However they are all interchangeable for the 7.3
i dont know about the 95s but my 97 IDM is on the driver side fender well by the air box
I have a 95 and the idm is on the drivers side fender well by airbox also... 3 bolts take off.. plus one connector bolt plug.. My idm cost 260 bucks at autozone...
My 1997 was on the driver's side fender.
The passenger side fuel injectors stopped. All 4 of them. Hopefully changing the IDM will fix my problems.
The idm varies in price , i would check out Amazon or Craigslist and then ebay for the best price on one, And Robert no prob hope it helped
glad my 1995 has the idm inside the engine compartment on the side wall
The Idm on a 95 is under the hood bolted to the driver side inner fender
Same for 97'
Right and those are 94.5-97 OBS trucks, this was on a SD 99-03.
And for the IDM, much simpler to get to as well on the OBS.
I got a 95 thank goodness i seen this
Thanks for making this video bud.
I have a 94 Ford diesel f250. Lately , It will start in the morning to go to work or run around but after I shut it off, it wants to crank but wont start unless I let it set for the whole day. When it starts it runs fine, but it seems like it could be an IDM problem. and i have 200K on it.
Great video
So since it was the driver side and the module is on the driver side, does the right bank have a module under the fender skirt as well?
No
No
So if it is 'real common, why didn't you opt for this repair first? Thanks for replying 3 years later.
Do you have to disconnect the batteries to change out your IDM injector control module?
Thanks for this video, very useful. I suspect this is my issue. I have a '00 that has been dropping a bank of injectors and throwing an SES light. Within 5 min, and with me doing nothing, it smooths out and the light clears. I pulled the sides and it's giving me an idm code. Doing a buzz test failed a few times (driver's side) but now passes each time. This all started after I took my truck through a car wash for the first time since I have owned it. I did UVC harnesses this winter with units from international so I don't think that's the issue. Sound like I'm on the right track? Truck's been so reliable in the past, I can't stand intermittent issues that fix themselves :/ Thanks bud!
Did this fix that issue with a new idm? My truck is doing the exact same thing and was just wondering if the idm was actually your problem.
@@aaronstandley1659 it sure did.
my 7.3 occasionally falls to idle for a few seconds, and the "service engine soon" light comes on. It always goes back to power after 4 or 5 seconds, but when you're under a traffic light in a busy intersection, it gets embarrassing quick. I service it with the best of synthetic oils every 3500 miles, and the engine only has about 90,000 miles on it. Is there a way to reset this when you change oil?
I hade the same problem. I replaced the Cam Position Sensor (CPS) and fixed the problem. It was about $20. It's a bit tricky to get to, but not too bad. Just need an 8 mm socket with a 3 in extension.
My IDM relay kicks in and out rapidly, with no start.
One of my guys changed the power steering pump now this issue
im not positive on the 95 those trucks are different from the later models i work on
I have an Idm off a 2000 model (220 volt) My ;99 has a 110 volt. Can I change them out or do I need to change anything else also?
I'm in the same situation as you.. i have an Early 99 and want to change it out with the 220volt of the newer model.. did you ever figure out if its as easy as a swap or is there something else involved? thanks in advance.
Grumpy old fart powerstrokehelp said they can swapped as it is an upgrade.
IloveBaklava hope you made the swap/upgrade
david martin but is there anything else involved, does the wiring harness plug right in, or are there other things involved?
Grumpy old fart plug and play is what I've heard. Can't wait to get mine.
What side fender? Left or right fender?
I have to replace my IDM the reinstall it says I have to follow a RELEARN PROCEDURE FOR THE PATS SYSTEM but I don't have a PATS SYSTEM because I don't have a chipped key so after install is there anything I need to do before starting my truck I don't want to have to buy a new IDM if do it wrong
at 40 degrees my truck has trouble starting. it didnt do it before now it does. i have changed glow plugs and glow plug relays and still have the same problems. any suggestions?
most likely a weak injector or 2
joe valdez sometimes glow plug relays come bad from the factory. that's why they offer lifetime warranty on them
joe valdez try running hot shots secret oil and fuel treatment for awhile then switch to Arch oil 9100 in the oil.
My trucks doing the same thing🤦♂️ I'm about to get new injectors😭 or may think about buying a PCM/IDM first🤔 I have brand new IPR valve brand new ICP sensor two brand new batteries brand new relay 8 brand new glow plugs and one new head gasket with connectors..... It can be 40 degrees outside my truck will be plugged in and it smokes like crazy and doesn't start........😭😭😭😭😭
@@ICExxD Going thru this vid & comment threads.. found yours & wondering what you ended up doing to resolve that 7.3’s issue(s)?
Hi and thanks for the video i have a 2002 f350 7.3 with new injectora new wire harness new glow plugs and is having a hard start with a lot smoke and than after 3 minutes rpm normalize and truck runs fine could be the idm???? Thanks
Did you ever figure out what caused your problem? I have the same issue.
Do you need to do anything different if your truck is tuned. I got an early 99 that's tuned on tow mode and want to put a late 99 idm on it. Still plug and play?
Yes
Was wondering there that was. Like your intro, now of to AIR WOLF video's.
Cody would the truck still idle just fine?
My truck the solenoid on one of the injectors was bad
What brand idm did you use to replace old one
I’m 13 years old I hope I don’t mess nun up thank you
Will a bad IDM shut down maby 2 banks on both sides if not what could
An IDM can shut down some cylinders but I would check the injector harness under your valve cover, they are notorious for going bad even ford had a wedge kit for the plug to the injector harness.
what year is yours? I have a 97 and it appears to be accessible from under the hood bolted to the inside of front panel. I replaced both uvhc and fuel pump. It still skips at about 2000 rpms or under a load, but not always. IDM???
+Brobdingnagian One mine is a 01 so yours is a little different
Thanks Cody. Do you think an IDM would cause an intermittent skip? Thanks for the video!
96 is accessed from under the hood.
I got it. Thanks!
Check your CPS (Camshaft position sensor). That is by far the most common failure in a 7.3 aside from extreme oil consumption in higher mileage engines that most guys can figure out. That isn'w what we are talking about however lol. Fuel filter and CPS is where you should start Brobdingnagian.
Yeah mines doing this just replaced valve cover gasket guess I should have gave it the 50 cent treatment. It's cold out now blame it.... Hope I haven't screwed my IDM in the process.
Hope it helped , lots more how to videos are on the way and coming soon a actual show pilot will be finish this month and first show will be posted here
thank you
I have a 95 psd that wont start, checked all the fuses and are ok, is the idm on the passenger side in these? thanks
The idm is on the drivers side higher up. If I remember correctly its next to the fuse box under the hood.
Hey everyone ill also be shooting a how to make your own compression tester for the superduty and a really cool how to make your own cheetah also coming up how to rebuild your cav/lucas injection pumps ill be posting a fund me link for some really cool "How to" videos here in the future
What makes one run like shut
Can be clogged filters, dirty oil, or bad injector. Need more info on when it runs bad. Is it hard to start or running like a misfire?
Can you swap those from 2000 to 2002
Yes
Thanks i make those intros myself
How much was this IDM part?
About $250 reconditioned
What brand idm you use
Can a bad IDM make my truck smoke{white} whenever im in gear and go up to 2500 rpms?
I have a 1999 f250 7.3l wont accelerated somebody help please
Did you check this? th-cam.com/video/83eplDRPBzg/w-d-xo.html
These trucks are annoying never a code when it comes to replacing parts it never tells you what’s wrong with it
I have a snub nose van with a 7.3
Does anybody know where the IDM is located in one of those?
Another video showed it drives side firewall. 4 years to late with an answer but..
Stuff like this is why it is easier, faster, and cheaper to just take the truck in and let a professional Power Stroke mechanic diagnose and fix it. Not just a "mechanic" but a specialist that works on diesels daily that knows all the tricks and quirks. More specifically the Power Stroke diesel engines. You spent "x" buying and changing all this shit that wasn't the problem at all. As a full time licensed HVAC technician, I will say electrical and sensor gremlins are a bitch. You really need to have the proper training, knowledge and equipment/tools to troubleshoot this stuff. Otherwise you are throwing twenty, fifty and hundred dollar bills into a river and watching them float away. Pretty soon you have $500+ bucks into it with it STILL NOT FIXED when a $39.95 part was all that you needed......along with a ton of experience and training to DISCOVER it......
I do a lot of my own mechanical work on my 2002 F-250 Super Duty with the 7.3L Power Stroke. When something is beyond my ability I am qualified enough to step down and let someone else take a look. I'm having a issue right now with my glow plug relays that keep burning out. I've replaced them twice in the last six months. This problem is clearly something more that I'm tired of messing with and will be seeking their knowledge on the matter soon. This summer I replaced my own 8 brass injector cups (the tool to do this was $375), 8 glow plugs, all 8 injector o-rings, turbo and pedestal o-rings/clamps, all intercooler, intake and turbo boots, water pump, starter, auxiliary alternator, serpentine belt, all idler and tensioner pulleys, ICP sensor, EBP sensor and tube, radiator degas bottle, all hoses, flushed cooling system, block and changed antifreeze, replaced both batteries, oil and filter change, transmission filter and fluid change, new K&N air filter.............and a few more things I am tired of typing thus far. I have about $2,400 in materials/parts here and did all the work/labor myself. My truck was down a day short of a month while doing the work myself after hours and when weather (lots of rain this year) as well as stifling heat (95F+) permitted.
I'm tired of fucking with this truck and will be taking it to the Ford garage soon. Every once in awhile you just have to throw in the towel and let the PROFESSIONALS do it..... I see it everyday in my line of work. They replaced every part on that furnace trying to correct a dirty flame sensor or leaves blocking the fresh air intake and tripping the pressure switch....etc...etc... Took me less than 5 minutes to discover and correct it. Our service call is $84 an hour. A annual service to the furnace is $99 and would have corrected it during the course of our checklist and service. How many people go dumping freon into an A/C when all it has is a dirty outside coil or a dirty air filter inside? I've seen A/Cs junked because it had a blown capacitor and someone thought the compressor had burned out because they weren't smart enough to check for that or had a meter that could read MFD......
"A man has got to know his limitations!" ~ Clint Eastwood Dirty Harry Magnum Force 1972
A good rule of thumb to follow an old timer told me a long time ago was that if it will take you more than a good solid weekend to complete.....maybe a week tops, you should just take it in and let them do it for you. Brakes, shocks, belts, alternators, starters, water pump, hoses, oil/filter changes etc...etc.. are a ripoff at the dealer or garage. As I said I already replaced the glow plugs and have replaced the GPR twice. I also removed the corroded fusible link on the driver side upper fender well that feeds the fuse panel and hardwired it with a brass heavy cable connector and heavy duty plastic shrink tube. I also replaced the chassis ground wire to the frame under the passenger door. It's when you get into "more" is when you get into trouble. My boss stopped by on a Friday night when I still had the engine tore down with all the injectors out and the top and front end tore off as well as the turbo off. His comment: "Jesus what a clusterfuck!" My reply.....I know! All this stuff needed replaced on a early build 2002 that was built in November 2001. Hell the truck is 15 years old and has 162k on it. I'm just sick of working on it by now and the basics aren't working for this particular issue.
I plan to follow this advice in the future.....:)
RIP Tom
People are simply parts changers when they either don't diagnose the problem, or diagnose the problem incorrectly. We have all done it, because we were trying to save money. It sux doesn't it?
Rant much ?
#Roger
Dude you never say which side scrub
Mmm