I like your video just fine, but may I add that once you drain your oil from the heads and pull all the injectors go ahead and pull all the glow plugs for inspection and testing. make your injector repairs and install all the injectors but not the glow plugs. Start cranking the engine with zero compression and the starter will not overheat that much this will blow out any oil or coolant if you was dealing with a cracked injector cup. Blowing out any fluids out from the cylinder is very important, you do not want to get hydrolocked. After you see your motor oils pouring out of the injectors exhaust port, Stop and install all the glow plugs and start her up. (7.3 Lives on & on)
Very well said Roy, you must be a well seasoned mechanic. Not too manyyy mechanics even know nor ever been taught those little tricks. I have witnessed guys that have locked up by fuilds. You can give advice to some n some just know everything. Every shop has a know it all, n most bosses have stories of doing jobs that you know they're all bullshit. That's why most got off the floor so they never screw up something. I've had some that couldn't do a overhead on a Cummins nor had a clue installing Jake's. Those bosses are nothing but bullshit, n are veryyy likely to stab their men in the back doing the work. Narcissists n assholes, don't work for none of them. They generally have a high turnover of shop mechanics. Good video by the way.
This is great! May I ask? Do I need to reconnect everything, like the turbo y, or any of the sensors like the icp, ipr, etc before cranking? When you say start cranking the engine with 0 compression Is that something I need to do special or because the valve covers & gaskets are off there will automatically be no compression? Basically what is the bare minimum I need to have hook up so I can crank the engine with no compression? Thanks
@@MichaelMuller1 Okay what I have done in the past and NO you do not need to hook up all them wires just put some black tape on the one that goes to the intake heater that one is HOT when you turn the key on. I also unplug the CAM sensor at the front bottom passenger side next to the crankshaft pulley (Harmonic balancer) SO the injectors don't try to fire and they won't until they get oil pressure any ways. By leaving out all the glow plugs and the cam sensor unplugged you are doing two things. Blowing out any fluid out of the cylinder and priming the oil system to the HPOP with no stress to the starter, you should see the dash oil gauge come up about 1/4 of the way. If you prime your pump now you will crank less later when you are really trying to start it under compression. Good Luck and God Bless
I purchased my 99 F250 7.3 PS new when it was introduced to the market. It has only 170K over the past 20 years because I have used it for pulling an RV or boat. Although I can work on just about any gas engined vehicle I am not knowledgeable at all when it comes to diesel engines. Thankfully there are people such as yourself who have the knowledge and know how to work on diesels and are willing to take their time and effort to make and post videos of diagnosis 0f engine problems with detailed instructions of how to do the repairs. I think your videos are exceptional in the way that you present the information in a straight forward manner that is concise, easy to follow and understand. Thank you again for your excellent videos, you do a great job making them... keep them coming!!!
No diesel... No truck... Very little experience with injectors. Always super intrigued and learn allot by your vids. Oh, I buy every tool you recommend too. Keep it up! Lastly, Auto 101: Rule #1; never ever leave the video without letting the viewers HEAR IT RUN! 🤫
Remarkably great walkthrough of the procedure. Genuinely solid contribution to DIY knowledge base. Exactly what viewer needs and wants to hear. Complements on video well done Sir!
This is the video I needed. I had the injector harness clip break if in the injector when changing glow plugs... I was dreading pulling the injector, but thanks to the vid i know I can just pull off the electronics at the top. One day ill change the o-rings... But today isn't that day. Thanks again
I just installed the shims on 4 of my injectors. The armature plate on the driver side 4 had no clearance and starting was terrible until the engine was warm. Last night and this morning it cranked with no issue and ran almost like it was warmed up already. Can't wait to do the passenger side too. Just have to find my oil leak and replace the power steering pump. Good videos you make so far. The shims can be done without removing the injectors too. Just have to take your time and be careful.
@@brianmunch1827 yeah, main leak was one of the main plugs on the back of the head. Took it to a shop cause they're difficult to get to and I couldn't get them to break loose.
The 2 videos you did about the injector o rings has been the absolute most help! My truck is doing pretty much exactly the same thing right now. Been chasing the problem for days. Did the icp , ebp and tube. I haven't tested my hpop but ill be pulling valve cover and checking injectors.
Shoot I was just telling my wife I stumbled across at 7.3 video for idiots and it was common problem with rough starts in the morning and now my car is doing my truck's doing the same that yours did so it was the o-rings underneath after all I think I have the same problem thank you for the video sir
Very excellent video. This is a project I've already done 4 times to r different trucks. I watched it because I'm having a different problem that you didn't discuss but I'm compelled to comment because you covered absolutely everything a beginner basically needs to know. I do a few things just a tad different but that's ok. You did an excellent job with this video, I am very impressed. Ever try working on the 7.3 on an Econoline van. No room to work.
Great video...I bought my first Diesel, it's a 02 F350 4x4 7.3...I'm gonna be putting a new Garrett turbo..5 inch MBRB Exhaust..manifolds and Y pipe..and lots of other things so while I'm down that far I might as well service the injectors and replace the valve cover gaskets...thanks to you I know what it's gonna be like..doesn't look to hard.
I drove my 7.3 with nothing but diesel in the cooling system(had no water or coolant only 500 gal. of red dye in the middle of no where) and its running great with the shims I installed 4 years ago...
You need to evacuate the cylinders of oil and fuel before cranking or you WILL hydro lock and damage your engine! Remove all glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand a couple of times with a socket on the crankshaft, then turn it over by jumping the starter with the ignition off. Then you can reinstall the glow plugs and purge air from the system and fire it up.
Gotta warn everyone about hydralock so no one goes to crank there truck over and bend the connecting rods or break a piston ring pull the glow plugs all of them and crank the engine over to push all the fuel and oil out of each cylinder. If you don't do this, your weekend project will turn into a month or more pulling the engine out of the truck.
Great video Thank you so much for taking your on making it we need more videos like your I just work on my but I didn't make a video is little difficult work and try to make a video at the same time Thanks again
I drove VW diesels for 26 years. They were complicated enough, Thank you. lol This was interesting tho. Imagine all this expensive technology and parts replaces the simple Spark Plug with no moving parts. Curious if it's really worth the slightly better fuel mileage over a much simpler gasoline engine.
From what I recall , Benz was the first designer of diesel powered engines . This was some way way back in the beginning of combustion engine designs . As to who was first . Steam , lol , of course .
This doesn't replace the sparkplug. It replaces injectors... Gasoline engines have injectors. Diesels don't need spark. So technically, this has less ignition parts. Have you seen all the crap on a gasser V10 f350? Way more complex than a diesel.
You make great videos. Can you go into detail about your troubleshooting that took you from suspecting a bad icp sensor in one video to needing injector o rings in the next video.
Wow, I’ve been in and out of these valve covers 1 million times (mostly my fault) I learn something new every time though. I never knew about draining the oil rails. I’ve heard about it but never knew how. I always just roll the crank 1000 times. Takes forever and the truck doesn’t like it.
I have an early 99 7.3 F 350 with swamps 175's I believe I installed at least 15 years ago. been smoking some in any tune with some loss of power. Do they wear out or can any of these injectors be made like new doing this rebuild !?!??!?!?
Very descriptive & detailed video. Much appreciated. My 2003 Excursion 7.3 is surging immediately at startup & check engine light (P0683 glow plug module to PCM communicaction circuit). My ICP is dry & appears fine. I did replace it 3yrs ago w/an inexpensive brand so wondering if I need another. Can U explain how U determined the injectors needed new gaskets? IDK, maybe I missed a video. I'm waiting on delivery of valve cover gasket harnesses from RiffRaff currently.
What effect will it have if the internal spacer isn't correct? Do all the 97 Powerstores have the square O ring set up? Mine looked like it had just one larger O ring.
How did you diagnose that it was the injector orings. My truck has been surging, running rough, stalling and cranking with no start for a few months now. I can’t seem for figure out what my issue is. I have replaced the icp, IPR, CPS, glow plug relay, and the pickup foot in the fuel tank. The sensors were all motorcraft. I don’t know where to go from here. I am not getting anything but a p0603 from a snap on scanner. Thanks!
Nicely done video. So rebuilding them is (far) less expensive than buying new or rebuilt injectors, right? Almost gives me enough courage to try it myself! Thanks for parts list! My early 99 has 317k on it and feels like it's got plenty of life left. ~15.5 mpg combined and all of the power I need so I don't think the injectors are too bad yet. But I am going to have to do something about the EBPV (exhaust back pressure valve) so I might go for the injectors while I've got it torn that far down. I will probably do the delete it but I've not found a video on that process yet. On cold mornings (less than ~35f) my truck surges and sounds like a sick jet for at least 10 minutes and I've already replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube. The tube was totally rotted out so I did see some improvement. Believe or not I learn a ton from reading the comments on these videos which I why made this long comment. Hopefully I can help someone else out.
I want to say it was about 90 bucks for the o-ring / seal kit for the injectors, and another 90 for the shim kit. (Don't hold me to that, my memory is about as good as a gold fish). Prior to that kit, you could barley start the truck in temps below 50 degrees. I developed a leak at the turbo pedestal, when repairing that I did the EPBV delete kid, it came with a new pedestal and seals. Was fairly straight forward. Mine would stick shut in the winter and you couldn't do the speed limit until it got hot enough to finally kick open, it also sounded like a jet sucking air under the hood. My engine is just a bit past 300k miles, still running strong and I hope to keep it for a while. A few weekends ago I developed a leak at the oil cooler, getting ready to tackle that next!
@@1D10CRACY Sorry about your oil cooler! I want to do a video for "newbies" like me. Something like "the top 5 (simple) things that fail/to keep on eye on/replace before it's too late plus the basic tools needed to work on on your 7.3 and of course the location and names of basic things. My 7.3 has really spoiled me for the last 10 years because it's been so reliable thus I really never learned much about her until lately when I've started thinking about getting at least another relatively maintenance free 100k+ on it.
3:22 Kind of scary that Ford designed those brittle wire retainers in such a way that the tabs can snap off and get flung around by the rocker arms....
Interesting. Learning new stuff all the time. Maybe i should look into doing my o rings and doing the shim check. Mine has 300k and probably original injectors. I am looking into hpop R n R for valley leaks and crossover oil line upgrade while hpop out
I'm thinking I need to do this ... my truck starts in 80° as if it was below 10... once it warms all the way up it runs fine .would this be your suggestion thanks for awsome video and also shouldni drain my coolant down so whats in the motor dosnt get in my oilpan
you failed to put the armature plate on with the lines going side to side-or front of engine to back, this is how the magnet on the top is made to match. i got this wrong first 2 injs i rebuilt - then i senn the lines and re adjusted them.
Good eye, when I put the video back together I noticed that too. I figured most people unlike me would be smart enough to keep everything aligned and it wasn't worth mentioning. LOL
That's a really professional work mate 👏 👌👍 you are a really fucking good 👍 👍👍 awesome working 👏👏👍 I learn a lot watching your vedeos 👏👌👍 thanks for showing your experience 👍 cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍
I thought you had to take apart the injector so you may spray tip out wear it sprays good four directions and a spring in center of injectors but I do like the video and the way you do them one by one
Best video!! I'm a big fan and owner of a 1997, turbo diesel 7.3. Quick question? I replace my injectors, not new but from another 7.3 who was running really good. I changed all o rings for new one. Now problem with my truck it smoke blue. Before I had a bit of it but was clearing after few minutes, now idle for 30 mins and still smoking blue. And if I can point another issue, truck idle great but if I floor the gas pedal it doesn't want to pass 2000rpm and smoke like crazy??? Thank you.
Glad you asked! That compressor was going to be installed onto a truck I ended up replacing with the current truck. Then we moved and life stole some garage time. About a week ago I unboxed it and the new goal is to install it on the Ford 7.3, maybe where the auxiliary alternator option would of been. It will happen, and I will do a video as well.
I'm about to pull my injectors out and get them flow tested. My rig has nearly 400,000 on her and was running strong on a recent road trip. But I know when i buzz test them a couple do sound weak so I figured since I'm going back under there and at a good benchmark why not get them tested as well. I was reading something and they said after you get them reinstalling and pull your glow plugs and try to start the engine with glow plugs out and injectors not hooked up to blow out any oil in the cylinder. Is that actually a good idea at all or sorta frowned upon?
I pulled the glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand, this clears out the cylinders in case there is an excessive amount of oil in them and prevents hydro locking.
@@1D10CRACY I'm having a problem with mine it is draining the high pressure reservoir internal overnight internal and I do have a bad O ring on my injector cause I'm cause I'm getting motor oil pumped back into my fuel bowl
1D10CRACY thanks for the quick response. I put it all back and tried starting and it sounds like it locked up. Hopefully nothing serious. Taking it apart now to remove glow plugs and turn over by hand.
@@gprice5427 what did you find out? Am I understanding this correctly that if you pull the glow plugs and manually crank a few revolutions, it cant hydrolock?
The main problem is when you pull the injectors, all the fluid falls down into the top of the cylinders. You need to remove that fluid before you try to start the engine. by pulling the glow plugs and then manually cranking the engine over, it gives a place for the fluid to go, it will squirt out the glow plug holes.
Question I have a 2002 ford f350 7.3. I just replaced the glow plugs before I put the valve cover back on I wanted to see if the injectors was working right Well the drivers side works as it should however the passager side the oil ports don't pump no oil at all does any have an idea thanks in advance.
@@andysmith6587 Don't rule out a bad valve cover gasket! I've worked on a hand full of these engines and have not seen it personally, but I've read about it. Normally when you have a bank of injectors not hitting, it is related to the plug to the valve cover gasket.
Well it easy to check since the valve covers are still off ford could have sold me a bad gasket the wires all checked out from the pigtail thanks I'll have a look at it in a bit have to get away from it been given ma a headache lol
Well up date I went ahead an replaced the valve cover gasket with a brand new on still the same hard knocking as I said truck will start I even changed out the ipr valve, I'm thinking maybe the high pressure oil pump itself but I'm still at a loss.
Can someone tell me what the reason would be for shimming the solenoid when what is worn is the poppet valve!? The factory specification for the plate on the poppet valve is. 004 so if you shim it back up to that spec, and the solenoid doesn't wear to my knowledge, then why would you need to shim it? I don't believe that there would be a need to do so! Thanks..
I did some digging on this a while back and I don't remember what I found. There was a guy in one of the Ford forums that explained what was going on, but I can't find it. I will say every time I have done this it resulted in almost unbelievable results. I own the truck in this video and It still starts very easy.
Best way to purge the cylinders is to install the injectors and pull the glow plugs before turning it over. Turn it over slowly by hand using a breaker bar on the crank. Anything in the cylinders will squirt out through the glow plugs holes!
Awesome! I went ahead and spent the extra $ on the motor craft o-rings and I bought the shim kit you recommend. I’ve got the injectors out except for the number 3 injector (I have the econoline so a bit less space to work with 😬) so just waiting on the parts so I can do the fix! Thanks for the video, it really helps!
@1D10CRACY they work on stage 2, but I fell into an issue. I drained all cylinders installed everything, and now fuel is poring out of my exhaust? When I try and start it perfect lol
Depending on what is wrong with the injectors, a shim kit may buy some time. Unfortunately "failing" is a broad term and without knowing "if" how they troubleshooted, there is no way to give you an answer.
@@1D10CRACY for years the truck would have a random misfire when it was cold and it would go away after it warmed up. I started using stiction Eliminator and it cleared up and then quit using it for a long time and now it's missing really bad
Why don't you use 2ea of the metal rings on the Grove the flat seal and oring go together in? I'm hearing yes use 2 c ring seals and I'm hearing No don't do that
They call the metal ring a backup ring. My understanding is it's just a seat for the cushion ring (the square one). The actual upper injector seal is the round one. I don't see the purpose of using two metal rings. It could just be one of those rumors started online and now a lot of people who don't know any better think it's an improvement. I guess, when in doubt, follow the manufacturers design, their engineers are the ones who designed it.
The gentleman at TH-cam site Custom works highly recommends to use 2 of them. He is an instructor and one of ford's Guru's on the 7.3l. At least that's what he claims. You know you can be anyone you want on the internet though. But this fella really knows his stuff, I wished I could recall who the second one I seen that did the 2 rings as well. I do agree 100% with you about the whole engineer thing. As I work with engineers every singke day and understand thier purpose etc etc
There could be a very good reason for why he feels two is needed. But without knowing the why, I don't have an answer and will probably continue to use just one. Maybe when I get some time I'll dig into the idea some more and maybe find some reasoning.
@1D10CRACY completly.understandable. my maim cue perse is have you done this or heard of it being done or anyone else out there that could see this chat
I like your video just fine, but may I add that once you drain your oil from the heads and pull all the injectors go ahead and pull all the glow plugs for inspection and testing. make your injector repairs and install all the injectors but not the glow plugs. Start cranking the engine with zero compression and the starter will not overheat that much this will blow out any oil or coolant if you was dealing with a cracked injector cup. Blowing out any fluids out from the cylinder is very important, you do not want to get hydrolocked. After you see your motor oils pouring out of the injectors exhaust port, Stop and install all the glow plugs and start her up. (7.3 Lives on & on)
Very well said Roy, you must be a well seasoned mechanic. Not too manyyy mechanics even know nor ever been taught those little tricks. I have witnessed guys that have locked up by fuilds. You can give advice to some n some just know everything. Every shop has a know it all, n most bosses have stories of doing jobs that you know they're all bullshit. That's why most got off the floor so they never screw up something.
I've had some that couldn't do a overhead on a Cummins nor had a clue installing Jake's. Those bosses are nothing but bullshit, n are veryyy likely to stab their men in the back doing the work. Narcissists n assholes, don't work for none of them. They generally have a high turnover of shop mechanics. Good video by the way.
This is great! May I ask? Do I need to reconnect everything, like the turbo y, or any of the sensors like the icp, ipr, etc before cranking? When you say start cranking the engine with 0 compression Is that something I need to do special or because the valve covers & gaskets are off there will automatically be no compression? Basically what is the bare minimum I need to have hook up so I can crank the engine with no compression? Thanks
@@MichaelMuller1 Okay what I have done in the past and NO you do not need to hook up all them wires just put some black tape on the one that goes to the intake heater that one is HOT when you turn the key on. I also unplug the CAM sensor at the front bottom passenger side next to the crankshaft pulley (Harmonic balancer) SO the injectors don't try to fire and they won't until they get oil pressure any ways. By leaving out all the glow plugs and the cam sensor unplugged you are doing two things. Blowing out any fluid out of the cylinder and priming the oil system to the HPOP with no stress to the starter, you should see the dash oil gauge come up about 1/4 of the way. If you prime your pump now you will crank less later when you are really trying to start it under compression. Good Luck and God Bless
@@roysaenz5738 Thank you so much my friend! That is a huge help!
@@roysaenz5738 Thank you so much! I did exactly what you said and she fired right up!
I purchased my 99 F250 7.3 PS new when it was introduced to the market. It has only 170K over the past 20 years because I have used it for pulling an RV or boat. Although I can work on just about any gas engined vehicle I am not knowledgeable at all when it comes to diesel engines. Thankfully there are people such as yourself who have the knowledge and know how to work on diesels and are willing to take their time and effort to make and post videos of diagnosis 0f engine problems with detailed instructions of how to do the repairs. I think your videos are exceptional in the way that you present the information in a straight forward manner that is concise, easy to follow and understand. Thank you again for your excellent videos, you do a great job making them... keep them coming!!!
Do I own a Ford or a diesel vehicle? No.
Did I watch this to the end? Of course.
No diesel... No truck... Very little experience with injectors. Always super intrigued and learn allot by your vids. Oh, I buy every tool you recommend too. Keep it up! Lastly, Auto 101: Rule #1; never ever leave the video without letting the viewers HEAR IT RUN! 🤫
I know Im kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good website to watch new movies online?
@Kieran Kylo try Flixzone. Just google for it =)
@Spencer Hugh definitely, I've been watching on Flixzone for years myself =)
Spam tracked.
Remarkably great walkthrough of the procedure. Genuinely solid contribution to DIY knowledge base. Exactly what viewer needs and wants to hear. Complements on video well done Sir!
This is the video I needed. I had the injector harness clip break if in the injector when changing glow plugs... I was dreading pulling the injector, but thanks to the vid i know I can just pull off the electronics at the top. One day ill change the o-rings... But today isn't that day. Thanks again
I just installed the shims on 4 of my injectors. The armature plate on the driver side 4 had no clearance and starting was terrible until the engine was warm. Last night and this morning it cranked with no issue and ran almost like it was warmed up already. Can't wait to do the passenger side too. Just have to find my oil leak and replace the power steering pump. Good videos you make so far. The shims can be done without removing the injectors too. Just have to take your time and be careful.
Did you find your oil leakm
@@brianmunch1827 yeah, main leak was one of the main plugs on the back of the head. Took it to a shop cause they're difficult to get to and I couldn't get them to break loose.
The 2 videos you did about the injector o rings has been the absolute most help! My truck is doing pretty much exactly the same thing right now. Been chasing the problem for days. Did the icp , ebp and tube. I haven't tested my hpop but ill be pulling valve cover and checking injectors.
Thanks for sharing! As a 99 F350 7.3 owner, great video. No BS, straight and to the point.
And best video I've seen on this! Thank you for being so precise!
Read my reply, FYI.
I know I figured it out
great instructional video.....you reduced the intimidation factor considerably....well done....
Absolutely amazing vehicle. No info was skipped or missed. Thank you.
Shoot I was just telling my wife I stumbled across at 7.3 video for idiots and it was common problem with rough starts in the morning and now my car is doing my truck's doing the same that yours did so it was the o-rings underneath after all I think I have the same problem thank you for the video sir
Very excellent video. This is a project I've already done 4 times to r different trucks. I watched it because I'm having a different problem that you didn't discuss but I'm compelled to comment because you covered absolutely everything a beginner basically needs to know. I do a few things just a tad different but that's ok. You did an excellent job with this video, I am very impressed. Ever try working on the 7.3 on an Econoline van. No room to work.
Thanks for breaking this down - great video to start learning about these motors!
Great video and I will be referring back to it when I actually perform this task. thank you
Your garage looks more organized and cleaner than mine.
Great video...I bought my first Diesel, it's a 02 F350 4x4 7.3...I'm gonna be putting a new Garrett turbo..5 inch MBRB Exhaust..manifolds and Y pipe..and lots of other things so while I'm down that far I might as well service the injectors and replace the valve cover gaskets...thanks to you I know what it's gonna be like..doesn't look to hard.
I drove my 7.3 with nothing but diesel in the cooling system(had no water or coolant only 500 gal. of red dye in the middle of no where) and its running great with the shims I installed 4 years ago...
Great tech video !! Especially for those who cannot afford $300 an hour diesel shop
Very well done. Thanks!
Even more fun on a van - thanks man !
I can't even imagine!!! The V10s are bad enough in a van chassis! Best of luck!!!
To remove the oil drain plugs, I recommend you use a 3/8" drive air ratchet. That is less likely to strip the hex hole in the plug.
Might be a stupid question but is the drain only on the driver side
@@JS.730 not sure but guessing there on both sides of head.
You need to evacuate the cylinders of oil and fuel before cranking or you WILL hydro lock and damage your engine! Remove all glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand a couple of times with a socket on the crankshaft, then turn it over by jumping the starter with the ignition off. Then you can reinstall the glow plugs and purge air from the system and fire it up.
Yup! I usually pull the glow plugs and turn the engine over with a breaker bar fist.
Gotta warn everyone about hydralock so no one goes to crank there truck over and bend the connecting rods or break a piston ring pull the glow plugs all of them and crank the engine over to push all the fuel and oil out of each cylinder. If you don't do this, your weekend project will turn into a month or more pulling the engine out of the truck.
Great video Thank you so much for taking your on making it we need more videos like your I just work on my but I didn't make a video is little difficult work and try to make a video at the same time Thanks again
I drove VW diesels for 26 years. They were complicated enough, Thank you. lol
This was interesting tho. Imagine all this expensive technology and parts replaces the simple Spark Plug with no moving parts.
Curious if it's really worth the slightly better fuel mileage over a much simpler gasoline engine.
From what I recall , Benz was the first designer of diesel powered engines . This was some way way back in the beginning of combustion engine designs . As to who was first . Steam , lol , of course .
Depends, you want to keep the vehicle for 200k or 900k miles?
This doesn't replace the sparkplug. It replaces injectors... Gasoline engines have injectors. Diesels don't need spark. So technically, this has less ignition parts. Have you seen all the crap on a gasser V10 f350? Way more complex than a diesel.
you pull much?
Yes really excellent video, thank you, God bless you
You make great videos. Can you go into detail about your troubleshooting that took you from suspecting a bad icp sensor in one video to needing injector o rings in the next video.
Wow, I’ve been in and out of these valve covers 1 million times (mostly my fault) I learn something new every time though. I never knew about draining the oil rails. I’ve heard about it but never knew how. I always just roll the crank 1000 times. Takes forever and the truck doesn’t like it.
Thank you so much for that Gold information
Wish I would have done this when I changed my glow plugs..
I felt that
Awesome video and very well spoken sir thank you very much!!!!!
This is excellent, very well done.
Thanks dude nice job
Thank you very much amazing instructions
What an awesome video! Thank you for sharing
YIKES, what a great video!!
Thats a clean valve box
I know! 🤷
Great instructional video.
Great video!!! Thanks for sharing
Great video and great information
Thank you.
i never comment on videos. but i had to, great informative information
I have an early 99 7.3 F 350 with swamps 175's I believe I installed at least 15 years ago. been smoking some in any tune with some loss of power. Do they wear out or can any of these injectors be made like new doing this rebuild !?!??!?!?
Great video. Thank you
Thank you. Sharing.
Thank you Sir you read my mind with this video
Very descriptive & detailed video. Much appreciated. My 2003 Excursion 7.3 is surging immediately at startup & check engine light (P0683 glow plug module to PCM communicaction circuit). My ICP is dry & appears fine. I did replace it 3yrs ago w/an inexpensive brand so wondering if I need another. Can U explain how U determined the injectors needed new gaskets? IDK, maybe I missed a video. I'm waiting on delivery of valve cover gasket harnesses from RiffRaff currently.
What effect will it have if the internal spacer isn't correct? Do all the 97 Powerstores have the square O ring set up? Mine looked like it had just one larger O ring.
Fantastic video
S to see the bad ORing i think my 7.3 has this issue warning light comes on going up hills shuts off going down loss of power a bit
How did you diagnose that it was the injector orings. My truck has been surging, running rough, stalling and cranking with no start for a few months now. I can’t seem for figure out what my issue is. I have replaced the icp, IPR, CPS, glow plug relay, and the pickup foot in the fuel tank. The sensors were all motorcraft. I don’t know where to go from here. I am not getting anything but a p0603 from a snap on scanner. Thanks!
EXCELLENT VIDEO! GOD BLESS YOU...
Nicely done video. So rebuilding them is (far) less expensive than buying new or rebuilt injectors, right? Almost gives me enough courage to try it myself! Thanks for parts list! My early 99 has 317k on it and feels like it's got plenty of life left. ~15.5 mpg combined and all of the power I need so I don't think the injectors are too bad yet. But I am going to have to do something about the EBPV (exhaust back pressure valve) so I might go for the injectors while I've got it torn that far down. I will probably do the delete it but I've not found a video on that process yet. On cold mornings (less than ~35f) my truck surges and sounds like a sick jet for at least 10 minutes and I've already replaced the exhaust back pressure sensor and tube. The tube was totally rotted out so I did see some improvement. Believe or not I learn a ton from reading the comments on these videos which I why made this long comment. Hopefully I can help someone else out.
I want to say it was about 90 bucks for the o-ring / seal kit for the injectors, and another 90 for the shim kit. (Don't hold me to that, my memory is about as good as a gold fish). Prior to that kit, you could barley start the truck in temps below 50 degrees. I developed a leak at the turbo pedestal, when repairing that I did the EPBV delete kid, it came with a new pedestal and seals. Was fairly straight forward. Mine would stick shut in the winter and you couldn't do the speed limit until it got hot enough to finally kick open, it also sounded like a jet sucking air under the hood. My engine is just a bit past 300k miles, still running strong and I hope to keep it for a while. A few weekends ago I developed a leak at the oil cooler, getting ready to tackle that next!
@@1D10CRACY Sorry about your oil cooler! I want to do a video for "newbies" like me. Something like "the top 5 (simple) things that fail/to keep on eye on/replace before it's too late plus the basic tools needed to work on on your 7.3 and of course the location and names of basic things. My 7.3 has really spoiled me for the last 10 years because it's been so reliable thus I really never learned much about her until lately when I've started thinking about getting at least another relatively maintenance free 100k+ on it.
3:22
Kind of scary that Ford designed those brittle wire retainers in such a way that the tabs can snap off and get flung around by the rocker arms....
i wonder if you would have issues with o-ringing the solenoid to the base to eliminate oil getting in there or is it needed for plunger movement
Thanks
Awesome….great video
Very helpful thanks bud
Interesting. Learning new stuff all the time. Maybe i should look into doing my o rings and doing the shim check. Mine has 300k and probably original injectors. I am looking into hpop R n R for valley leaks and crossover oil line upgrade while hpop out
I'm thinking I need to do this ... my truck starts in 80° as if it was below 10... once it warms all the way up it runs fine .would this be your suggestion thanks for awsome video and also shouldni drain my coolant down so whats in the motor dosnt get in my oilpan
How do you know that the o-rings are leaking??
you failed to put the armature plate on with the lines going side to side-or front of engine to back, this is how the magnet on the top is made to match. i got this wrong first 2 injs i rebuilt - then i senn the lines and re adjusted them.
Good eye, when I put the video back together I noticed that too. I figured most people unlike me would be smart enough to keep everything aligned and it wasn't worth mentioning. LOL
That's a really professional work mate 👏 👌👍 you are a really fucking good 👍 👍👍 awesome working 👏👏👍 I learn a lot watching your vedeos 👏👌👍 thanks for showing your experience 👍 cheers from Norway 🇳🇴 👍
Great video, very informative!
Nice video thanks
I plan on doing this to my obs. When I go to open the drain plug on the injection rail does it drain to my oil pan or out the top
That’s good information I am
I thought you had to take apart the injector so you may spray tip out wear it sprays good four directions and a spring in center of injectors but I do like the video and the way you do them one by one
You only have to take them apart if your going to rebuild them. I just needed to replace the o-rings and decided to add the shim kit.
Best video!! I'm a big fan and owner of a 1997, turbo diesel 7.3. Quick question? I replace my injectors, not new but from another 7.3 who was running really good. I changed all o rings for new one. Now problem with my truck it smoke blue. Before I had a bit of it but was clearing after few minutes, now idle for 30 mins and still smoking blue. And if I can point another issue, truck idle great but if I floor the gas pedal it doesn't want to pass 2000rpm and smoke like crazy??? Thank you.
U get it figured out?
Did this fix the problem
Truck runs amazing and starts like it was new! The shim kit is definitely worth the money and effort!
For a 98 Ford 7.3, that starts up puffing white, will resetting the clearances and O rings correct this?
I have the same situation, my guess is yes.
Brad Ansell
Are all your glow plugs and relay good?
What happend with Part 2 and 3 from the aircompressor installation video?
Glad you asked! That compressor was going to be installed onto a truck I ended up replacing with the current truck. Then we moved and life stole some garage time. About a week ago I unboxed it and the new goal is to install it on the Ford 7.3, maybe where the auxiliary alternator option would of been. It will happen, and I will do a video as well.
Great video bud
Quick question. Did you replace the o rings with the ones from the shim guy(truckrentals)? Or did you get OEM
Got them on Amazon, there is a link in the description.
I'm about to pull my injectors out and get them flow tested. My rig has nearly 400,000 on her and was running strong on a recent road trip. But I know when i buzz test them a couple do sound weak so I figured since I'm going back under there and at a good benchmark why not get them tested as well. I was reading something and they said after you get them reinstalling and pull your glow plugs and try to start the engine with glow plugs out and injectors not hooked up to blow out any oil in the cylinder. Is that actually a good idea at all or sorta frowned upon?
I pulled the glow plugs and turn the engine over by hand, this clears out the cylinders in case there is an excessive amount of oil in them and prevents hydro locking.
What is the shim and o-rings part number?
Not sure off the top of my head, but I put links in the description.
I purchased my 99 F250
I didnt look through comments. Was your hpop tank draining oil internal?
Just had leaky o-rings causing oil pressure to be low. The engine was hard to start and ran poorly.
@@1D10CRACY I'm having a problem with mine it is draining the high pressure reservoir internal overnight internal and I do have a bad O ring on my injector cause I'm cause I'm getting motor oil pumped back into my fuel bowl
Did you take the injectors apart and replace the inside O rings?
I didn't take them apart any more than what you seen in the video. Truck is still running and starting like new BTW.
Amigo necesito ayuda mi ford 250 7.3 luego de una reparación no prende
Did you leave the glow plugs out when you started it back up again? Or did you just put everything back together and started it up?
I left them out and manually cranked the engine over a few times. Was hoping to purge anything in the cylinders.
1D10CRACY thanks for the quick response. I put it all back and tried starting and it sounds like it locked up. Hopefully nothing serious. Taking it apart now to remove glow plugs and turn over by hand.
1D10CRACY any advice is appreciated 😂😭
@@gprice5427 what did you find out?
Am I understanding this correctly that if you pull the glow plugs and manually crank a few revolutions, it cant hydrolock?
The main problem is when you pull the injectors, all the fluid falls down into the top of the cylinders. You need to remove that fluid before you try to start the engine. by pulling the glow plugs and then manually cranking the engine over, it gives a place for the fluid to go, it will squirt out the glow plug holes.
Need to give proper torque way on these injectors as they have 2 bolts
1 of them cant use torque.
do i have to remove the master cylinder and or the heater box to get the injectors out?
I didn't, mine is a 2001 f350. Getting the valve covers off was a bit of a puzzle though.
Question I have a 2002 ford f350 7.3. I just replaced the glow plugs before I put the valve cover back on I wanted to see if the injectors was working right Well the drivers side works as it should however the passager side the oil ports don't pump no oil at all does any have an idea thanks in advance.
The valve cover gaskets have the wiring harness built inside. The plugs on them are pretty fragile, I would start there!
@@1D10CRACY I also replaced both valve gaskets
@@andysmith6587 Don't rule out a bad valve cover gasket! I've worked on a hand full of these engines and have not seen it personally, but I've read about it. Normally when you have a bank of injectors not hitting, it is related to the plug to the valve cover gasket.
Well it easy to check since the valve covers are still off ford could have sold me a bad gasket the wires all checked out from the pigtail thanks I'll have a look at it in a bit have to get away from it been given ma a headache lol
Well up date I went ahead an replaced the valve cover gasket with a brand new on still the same hard knocking as I said truck will start I even changed out the ipr valve, I'm thinking maybe the high pressure oil pump itself but I'm still at a loss.
Can someone tell me what the reason would be for shimming the solenoid when what is worn is the poppet valve!? The factory specification for the plate on the poppet valve is. 004 so if you shim it back up to that spec, and the solenoid doesn't wear to my knowledge, then why would you need to shim it? I don't believe that there would be a need to do so! Thanks..
I did some digging on this a while back and I don't remember what I found. There was a guy in one of the Ford forums that explained what was going on, but I can't find it. I will say every time I have done this it resulted in almost unbelievable results. I own the truck in this video and It still starts very easy.
do you not have to evacuate the cylinders before reinstalling the injector
Best way to purge the cylinders is to install the injectors and pull the glow plugs before turning it over. Turn it over slowly by hand using a breaker bar on the crank. Anything in the cylinders will squirt out through the glow plugs holes!
Excelent
It's been a year.. So do you still have the truck was it worth doing all that work to the injectors? Or would have been better to go on with new...
I still have the truck and I am happy to say it is still running great! I'd say it's worth a try!
@@1D10CRACY Right on bro appreciate it
How are those o-rings holding up? Would you still recommend the same o-ring and shim kit you used?
They are still doing well! I'd buy them again!
Awesome! I went ahead and spent the extra $ on the motor craft o-rings and I bought the shim kit you recommend. I’ve got the injectors out except for the number 3 injector (I have the econoline so a bit less space to work with 😬) so just waiting on the parts so I can do the fix! Thanks for the video, it really helps!
I need to know I have stage 2 injectors will the oring kit that you recommend will they work?
I believe they are the same o-rings. Let us know what you find out!
@1D10CRACY they work on stage 2, but I fell into an issue. I drained all cylinders installed everything, and now fuel is poring out of my exhaust? When I try and start it perfect lol
I had a shop tell me that three of my injectors have failed in the truck is misfiring really bad, is it possible to rebuild the injectors
Depending on what is wrong with the injectors, a shim kit may buy some time. Unfortunately "failing" is a broad term and without knowing "if" how they troubleshooted, there is no way to give you an answer.
@@1D10CRACY for years the truck would have a random misfire when it was cold and it would go away after it warmed up. I started using stiction Eliminator and it cleared up and then quit using it for a long time and now it's missing really bad
How do you tell if the injector needs to be rebuilt or just shims and o rings?
I'm not sure anyone can tell without the proper test equipment, I just took a guess.
Why don't you use 2ea of the metal rings on the Grove the flat seal and oring go together in? I'm hearing yes use 2 c ring seals and I'm hearing No don't do that
They call the metal ring a backup ring. My understanding is it's just a seat for the cushion ring (the square one). The actual upper injector seal is the round one. I don't see the purpose of using two metal rings. It could just be one of those rumors started online and now a lot of people who don't know any better think it's an improvement. I guess, when in doubt, follow the manufacturers design, their engineers are the ones who designed it.
The gentleman at TH-cam site Custom works highly recommends to use 2 of them. He is an instructor and one of ford's Guru's on the 7.3l. At least that's what he claims. You know you can be anyone you want on the internet though. But this fella really knows his stuff, I wished I could recall who the second one I seen that did the 2 rings as well.
I do agree 100% with you about the whole engineer thing. As I work with engineers every singke day and understand thier purpose etc etc
@@1D10CRACYPS: thank you for your reply.
There could be a very good reason for why he feels two is needed. But without knowing the why, I don't have an answer and will probably continue to use just one. Maybe when I get some time I'll dig into the idea some more and maybe find some reasoning.
@1D10CRACY completly.understandable. my maim cue perse is have you done this or heard of it being done or anyone else out there that could see this chat
Overall what was the estimated time it took you to replace all the rings on all the injectors
I think you could easily do it in a short day. I did mine over a weekend, but took my time. Taking the videos seems to slow me down a lot too.
So when you buy a "remanufactured" injector say off ebay, is this all they do? how did it run after you did this?
I think they year them down and do more to them. The truck runs fine now and starts pretty easy!
@@1D10CRACY cool! did you do new glow plugs while you were in there?? how many miles on her now?
I didn't replace them. I'm not sure about the miles would have to look. I'd guess 320k-ish.
How is that brand holding up? Ford is asking 19$ per injector for o ring kit
So far so good!
How much ??
So if you shim the popit .200 than the magnet gets shimmed 0.200?. That's the part that confuses me
if you dont the magnet will bang on the popet valve.
1994-2003 Deluxe 7.3 Powerstroke DT444 Injector Rebuild Kit
bitterroot diesel has sourced good parts from italy and usa no china junk.
Were is the link for the shim kit?
Ok I figured it out lol