*Awesome combo **MyBest.Tools** Veeeeery powerful especially for size. And the batteries last well. When charged and stored they don't lose power like my old bulky ones did.*
Thanks for the presentation, i ordered it after watching ur video, and got totaly impressed by it today. i just put the largest screw for a test in and out, and burned my fingers when i removed it, because it was so hot ;-) this tool is from hell, has way more power than all other impactdrivers i tested
I’m in carpentry, decks, carports, etc...used this machine throughout the season. Based on my invoices I have ran in almost 50000 screws and bolts this year.... this tool is just great
The 'baggy' battery connects on this unit as well as the Milwaukee units are intentional from the product designers. They reduce the vibrations on the battery cells and their internal spot welds caused by the tools.
That makes a lot of sense. I will be sure to include that information in the roundup. I couldn't figure out why it was only with the impact drivers and not the drills. Thank you.
Thank you ... that was all the information I needed. I already own this impact driver but I just needed to check something and you covered it. thank you
@@clearriver5987 speed 1 kinda sucks. I prefer the milwuakee on mode 1. but I have this model 887 and its being great. with minor flaws like. 1. Wobble chuck 2. Speed1 mode. 3. No way to disable leds. 4. Battery seems loose but not a big deal.
The 1st speed on the 877 is for precision driving. It drives, then hesitates for about a second, then it starts impacting very slowly. Don't think you did it justice. But I do miss a nifty feature for self tapping screws or similar, have to agree there.
Nikola You are right I missed that feature but DeWalt told us and I think it is mentioned in the roundup, if not then I should have so thanks for point it out
This is a great review! Thanks for making this mate! Just ordered one of these to replace my other DeWalt impact driver, I just couldn't get the hang of it and after another stripped screw thought this ain't for me, but this one, with the Precision Drive Gear 1 setting, looks like it will be ideal. I prefer an impact driver for driving because they're so small, light, the DeWalt triple LEDs are great, and they really do just drive better than a drill. But my one, with no speeds, my finger would sometimes slip (maybe it gets tired?) It would whizz and the screw is instantly stripped. Hopefully with this model I'll be fine :)
Good review and I've just replaced all my main tools, with Dewalt, do you think the loose battery is to make it easier to remove when it gets dust build up? A while ago I bought an Einhell grinder and multi tool, batteries are hard to get off when dust builds up and when they get dusty, they stop working, dust build up in the triggers switch and can't handle it! On to my 3rd of each under warranty.
Hi dear, I really like your videos ... One question, which impact screwdriver do you recommend, I am about to buy one and it may be the dewalt dcf 887 the makita dtd 154 or the Bosch gdx freak when I arrive in my country Chile. I work in electrical installations and do a lot of drilling and screwing. Which one would you recommend?? best regards and thank you ... James....
nice video and im happy to say i have ordered one of these :). Anyway I would like to see this Dewalt go up against a INGCO Impact Driver, a JCB Impact Driver and a Stanley Impact Driver if possible
Great review. I just got into the XR system and am looking at this impact driver, seen it as low as £82 delivered, probably gonna pull the trigger. Have you tested the 18v XR angle grinder or circ saw? Anyway new sub here, thanks.
There is nothing wrong calling it neither 20 or 18v. It is just a name. It is 20V max, and 18v average voltage. Same with 60 vs 54v. In some regards you can say that promoting a higher voltage makes the product look more powerful.
Very nice and throughout review I have had this impact driver for about a year and a bit and it was okay for jobs here and there but after starting my carpentry apprenticeship I found out it was definitely to heavy and not compact enough because it was twice the size of everyone else's impact driver and it ended up hurting my wrist, and I only had it on number 2. Also another thing that has led me to change was the movement in the bit head. It drives me insane. Its gotten so bad that I can barely get screws in, and when I take it to the store they just say but dewalt makes them like that so its not broken. In my opinion good tool for general stuff but if your hanging on it all day I would suggest another brand
On speed 1 when it stops keep the trigger held down and it becomes an impact driver its great tool spart from the chuck play which can be a pain if your using self tappers 👎
do you find that yours "cams out" unless you put a ton of pressure on the back? mine bounces all over the place when driving even just drywall screws and ends up stripping the screw. My ryobi i could drive something in with basically 1 finger because the bit would not jump around and out of the fastener.
I see you can buy masonry bits for this. I wanted to put an LED Floodlight up on the outside of my flat wall. So the wall is roughly about 1ft thick to drill through. Would the Dewalt be capable of doing this job ? Thanks.
I assume that you want to drill thru the wall for the cable, so you'll probably be wanting at least a 10mm hole. Since this is an impact driver, it's primary purpose is driving screws. Any drill bits you can get to fit this will necessarily need to have a 1/4" hex drive end on them and I doubt you would be able to get a foot long 10mm masonry drill bit in that format. You would be best using an sds drill for this task, try borrowing one.
I personally would get a hammer drill as well, if you can start the screws off in a hole, yes it will be able to do it. BUT you would be better off getting a hammer drill like the DCD996 or the DCD796 and drilling pilot holes for screws and use a concrete screw holder, which you then hammer the screw through and it will hold better. You would need a hammer drill anyways if you wanted to get the TPS cable through the wall
I'm always late. Mine is arriving tomorrow but with only two 2Ah batteries in the package available here in Bangkok. It means that I would have to look for other 5Ah packs on my own, if needed, which sounds a bit disappointing.
Hi Robert They are exactly the same machines out of the same factory. The Americans have been sucked into a voltage race and you can actually get a reading of 20 volts on a new battery but only for a couple of minutes. There was a bit of a backlash against this kind of dishonest description in the U.K so they stopped it but you can understand that once one manufacturerdoes it they are all dragged into the swamp.
Thanks for the reply. What you say makes sense since your 18V battery looks like my 20V battery, not like the 18V DeWalt batteries that I use with other tools.
Robert Penoyer The 18v Nominal and 20v comercial are exactly the same. They all use a row of 18650 cells in 5 parallel (3,7v x 5: 18.5v). The problem comes from that kind of battery charging. The charge voltage of a 18650 cell is 4.1v (4.1x5= 20.5) there comes the problem; these cells only holds its max power a short time, like the firs 10 min of work. Then they hold the power until its 50%. So you normally are working around 19 and 16v. Not 20v. I have tuned my Makita batteries up to 7ah in the same case. All brands includes really cheap cells inside their batteries; 1,5ah, 2.0ah cells that are really outdated. Samsung and LG has both 3.5ah single 18650 cells. You can double the power with the same size and weight
Skill Builder The power increases by 40w, and run time a 40%. Think about that in cordless tools, 40w is a whole other level. Normal batteries at the time, lets say 5ah. are giving you 90w. (18 x 5 = 90w). I gained 36w (18 x 7 = 126). The most powerfull battery I know in the 20v range is the milwawkee 9ah. But is is insanely expensive. You can feel the extra power from those 2ah extra, for sure. I don't recomend to increase the power on old brushed tools, you can easyly burn it. All new cordless tools have a temperature sensor and torque sensor, so it will shut down way before burning out
sorry to hear that. Somebody must be buying all these stolen tools and they should realise that they are as much to blame . If someone tries to sell you a tool take their picture. If it isn't stolen they won't object.
I have the 887 and mine is 20v is that particular to England (18v) or is just the age of the video? Pardon the dumb question I'm new to the channel... cheers, thanks... great video
20v is a lie. In the US, it is allowed to lie. In Europe, it's a bit more difficult. Anyway, it's not 60V or 20V, it's always 56V or 18V nominal, and "60V Max" or "20V Max" as in "peak" voltage. Marketing BS. Still a great tool, I'm on the Dewalt platform. 20V (US bought) and 18V (bought in Europe) are the same, completely interchangeable.
18v vs 20v, 60v vs 54volt; the machines are absolutely identical. It is purely how DeWalt choose to market in the US vs Europe. Same batteries, same cells, same tools, same chargers. Just ordered the 20v MAX chainsaw from 'across the pond', and it works perfectly with my UK spec batts and chargers. Just a labelling issue...
Kostadin Kondev you’re right but anytime I need to put ears in I’d be doing a big job, I not working on site at the moment. For homers I like the quitestrike.
Oh, I stand corrected and, I must admit, surprised. Good to see that there is still some American manufacturing left in Black and Decker Stanley as they now are.
The difference between a hammer drill (can drill masonry) and impact driver (can not drill masonry) is the direction of the impacts. Hammer drill impacts perpendicular to the surface, the bit is moving up and down so to speak, hammering the surface while drilling. Impact driver impacts in the direction of rotation and parallel to the surface. Impact driver is in no way hammering the surface but is trying to fasten/loosen the screw/bolt by pounding it in the direction it rotates.
An impact driver is used for driving screws which use torque applied to them to wedge under and pull themselves through the surface with their thread. It impacts in a rotational direction into the bit, to increase the force it can drive with. Drilling Masonry, you want a hammer drill. A hammer drill will impact the bit from behind, and force it into the material. An impact driver is specced for IPM(impacts per minute) And a hammer drill is rated on BPM blow's per minute. I have this impact driver, and dewalts heavy duty hammer drill, the DCD996 The driver is 3,800 IPM The hammer drill is around 38,000 BPM, so about 10 times as fast, and in the correct direction
@@joshbenton810 that's hilarious that they've just use synonyms. you know what a hammer does? it impacts things lol. informative post though. now I know the difference
@@berengerchristy6256 The impact from a hammer is called a blow though, hence why they refer to the hammer drill as BPM. There are even hammers know as dead blow hammers, which have minimal rebound, much like the baseballs from the dead ball era.
I hate the precision drive on this tool. I am returning it because of this "feature". I purchased this for mechanic work, and I wanted to keep it on the lowest setting for 20lb of torque to drive in intake bolts, etc. Not enough torque to break things, pretty close to spec for most small things, sounded great. Because of the precision drive it hesitates for a solid 20 seconds before it starts impacting, pretty much ruining a major reason I bought it. Hopefully they let you turn this off in future iterations, as I absolutely love everything else about this driver and I think it's the best on the market. If you're doing automotive work, stay away for now.
They make an impact wrench that is essentially an 887 with an anvil and They don't have the precision mode that is made for sinking screws. They also just released a 12v brushless impact wrench with low and high torque settings as well as precision wrench more aimed for running lugs on and off. It will break the lug at full power then slow down as not to shoot the bolt off where you can't find it.
I must have been confused because I haven't seen anyone use a 18v in years. They usually have those giant NiCad batteries. But all the 887's I can find are 20v...including the one I've been using for about 4 yrs now
@@TheAhirishman I have the DCF887 myself and mine says 20v Max on the side. It's a marketing gimmick. The battery reads 20v right off a fresh charge, but as soon as you use it, the working voltage drops down to 18v. So most 20v cordless tools are actually running in 18v in use, if you read the fine print in the paperwork.
I come from using the DCF 885 is been a great tool and I just bought the DCF 887 and I dislike this tool because the first speed has a delay before it starts impacting. I would say about 10 to 15 seconds. Also the tip wiggles enough to where is difficult to start a screw if you are using an extension. I don't recommend this impact driver. Time for me to order me a Milwaukee impact driver
In setting #1, the driver will set the screw, stop and if you hold the trigger down it will begin impacting about 20lb/ft until the material/fastener stops it or yields and you strip the hole or take the head off of the screw. I own the 887 and I'm quite happy with the feature but keep to mind that technology only compliments experience and will never replace it...know the tool and your game!
@@micmucky4993 I use this driver constantly 8hrs a day every day. Going through multiple 4Ah batteries a day and have for my particular driver for 4 years. I know what a bit skipping on a Phillips screw sounds like. But please continue being a turd
No, that sound is the impact driver working. It's not slipping on the screws, or the motor, or the gears. It's supposed to make that sound. I have this same tool. After the screw get's tight enough (about half way into the wood), impact mode engages. These tools are amazing for driving screws or lag screws into lumber.
Being the building game most my life and DeWalt tools have been a massive let down over the years they don't even guarantee their batteries because they know that's where the first problem normally occurs second problem normally occurs with the triggers and the parts are ridiculously priced extortionate get it together DeWalt there are much cheaper tools out there that are better quality give your head a wobble wake up to this fact DeWalt offer a 3 year warranty with their tools but it doesn't cover the batteries it would be laughable if it didn't piss me off so much
*Awesome combo **MyBest.Tools** Veeeeery powerful especially for size. And the batteries last well. When charged and stored they don't lose power like my old bulky ones did.*
Thanks for the presentation, i ordered it after watching ur video, and got totaly impressed by it today.
i just put the largest screw for a test in and out, and burned my fingers when i removed it, because it was so hot ;-)
this tool is from hell, has way more power than all other impactdrivers i tested
I own this one. it hasnt let me down and is very powerful.
I’m in carpentry, decks, carports, etc...used this machine throughout the season. Based on my invoices I have ran in almost 50000 screws and bolts this year....
this tool is just great
I have this impact and it is amazing the power it has. It will remove car lug nuts with an impact adapter.
Had mine for over a year brilliant tool as I’m a heating engineer 👍
i use this impact every day and its awesome.
The 'baggy' battery connects on this unit as well as the Milwaukee units are intentional from the product designers. They reduce the vibrations on the battery cells and their internal spot welds caused by the tools.
That makes a lot of sense. I will be sure to include that information in the roundup. I couldn't figure out why it was only with the impact drivers and not the drills. Thank you.
Thank you ... that was all the information I needed. I already own this impact driver but I just needed to check something and you covered it. thank you
Just bought one. Thanks for the excellent review, Roger.
I have been using it for 3 years daily and it is a beast
realy what about speed 1
@@clearriver5987 speed 1 kinda sucks. I prefer the milwuakee on mode 1. but I have this model 887 and its being great. with minor flaws like.
1. Wobble chuck 2. Speed1 mode. 3. No way to disable leds. 4. Battery seems loose but not a big deal.
Thank you for confirming Dewalt's superiority. Because of this video I've been able to make a well educated decision on my next purchase.
The 1st speed on the 877 is for precision driving. It drives, then hesitates for about a second, then it starts impacting very slowly. Don't think you did it justice. But I do miss a nifty feature for self tapping screws or similar, have to agree there.
Nikola
You are right I missed that feature but DeWalt told us and I think it is mentioned in the roundup, if not then I should have so thanks for point it out
I actually have grown to like the first mode. It comes in handy in sensitive fasteners where a few impacts could lead to stripped or broken fasteners.
This is a great review! Thanks for making this mate! Just ordered one of these to replace my other DeWalt impact driver, I just couldn't get the hang of it and after another stripped screw thought this ain't for me, but this one, with the Precision Drive Gear 1 setting, looks like it will be ideal. I prefer an impact driver for driving because they're so small, light, the DeWalt triple LEDs are great, and they really do just drive better than a drill. But my one, with no speeds, my finger would sometimes slip (maybe it gets tired?) It would whizz and the screw is instantly stripped. Hopefully with this model I'll be fine :)
I love your review. Greetings from Argentina!
Thanks,, Nice to hear from you. We have another one coming on Friday.
Good review and I've just replaced all my main tools, with Dewalt, do you think the loose battery is to make it easier to remove when it gets dust build up? A while ago I bought an Einhell grinder and multi tool, batteries are hard to get off when dust builds up and when they get dusty, they stop working, dust build up in the triggers switch and can't handle it! On to my 3rd of each under warranty.
Is this driver suitable for tech screws into insulated kingspan style sheeting?! Thank you 💨👌
Hi dear, I really like your videos ... One question, which impact screwdriver do you recommend, I am about to buy one and it may be the dewalt dcf 887 the makita dtd 154 or the Bosch gdx freak when I arrive in my country Chile. I work in electrical installations and do a lot of drilling and screwing. Which one would you recommend?? best regards and thank you ... James....
love my Dewalts
nice video and im happy to say i have ordered one of these :). Anyway I would like to see this Dewalt go up against a INGCO Impact Driver, a JCB Impact Driver and a Stanley Impact Driver if possible
Hi Roger any chance you can review the Ryobi range?
no chance...Roger doesnt review shite tools
Great video thanks for posting 👍
Great review. I just got into the XR system and am looking at this impact driver, seen it as low as £82 delivered, probably gonna pull the trigger. Have you tested the 18v XR angle grinder or circ saw?
Anyway new sub here, thanks.
I had a makita before but it started to heat up so I smashed it up against the wall then I drill holes through it with a dewalt 🤣🤣🤣
Have my dewalt battery about 6 years now use them every day al my tool is in my van 24/7 year round an my batteries perform like new
There is nothing wrong calling it neither 20 or 18v. It is just a name. It is 20V max, and 18v average voltage. Same with 60 vs 54v. In some regards you can say that promoting a higher voltage makes the product look more powerful.
THanks mate. Good job.
The 3-speed - looks like an electronic motor control, not a gear box?
yes you are right. Did I say gearbox? Not thinking
Would you still recommend this DeWalt or has something else come out that's better? Cheers
For pure power Milwaukee gen 3 , for precision by Makita...for all around great performance get dewalt
Very nice and throughout review I have had this impact driver for about a year and a bit and it was okay for jobs here and there but after starting my carpentry apprenticeship I found out it was definitely to heavy and not compact enough because it was twice the size of everyone else's impact driver and it ended up hurting my wrist, and I only had it on number 2. Also another thing that has led me to change was the movement in the bit head. It drives me insane. Its gotten so bad that I can barely get screws in, and when I take it to the store they just say but dewalt makes them like that so its not broken. In my opinion good tool for general stuff but if your hanging on it all day I would suggest another brand
On speed 1 when it stops keep the trigger held down and it becomes an impact driver its great tool spart from the chuck play which can be a pain if your using self tappers 👎
do you find that yours "cams out" unless you put a ton of pressure on the back? mine bounces all over the place when driving even just drywall screws and ends up stripping the screw. My ryobi i could drive something in with basically 1 finger because the bit would not jump around and out of the fastener.
At 00:38 you have the length at 33.5cm. An obvious error
Thanks Jeremy. Well spotted. We will try and change it but it is tricky
I see you can buy masonry bits for this. I wanted to put an LED Floodlight up on the outside of my flat wall. So the wall is roughly about 1ft thick to drill through. Would the Dewalt be capable of doing this job ? Thanks.
I assume that you want to drill thru the wall for the cable, so you'll probably be wanting at least a 10mm hole. Since this is an impact driver, it's primary purpose is driving screws. Any drill bits you can get to fit this will necessarily need to have a 1/4" hex drive end on them and I doubt you would be able to get a foot long 10mm masonry drill bit in that format. You would be best using an sds drill for this task, try borrowing one.
I personally would get a hammer drill as well, if you can start the screws off in a hole, yes it will be able to do it.
BUT you would be better off getting a hammer drill like the DCD996 or the DCD796 and drilling pilot holes for screws and use a concrete screw holder, which you then hammer the screw through and it will hold better.
You would need a hammer drill anyways if you wanted to get the TPS cable through the wall
@@frankcooper6118 even a nice hammer drill like the DCD996 will be fine for that
@@joshbenton810 Thanks
@@frankcooper6118 Yeah I will, thanks
Im about to buy a new system, is there a battery system change on dewalt in the near future?
There isn’t, DeWalt has recently released new tools in their current battery system
I'm always late. Mine is arriving tomorrow but with only two 2Ah batteries in the package available here in Bangkok. It means that I would have to look for other 5Ah packs on my own, if needed, which sounds a bit disappointing.
Great review, thanks for sharing (Y)
Ah I still have one as they are more reliable in the long run and to be honest there’s a lot less to go wrong with one of these.
Is that a variable speed switch or is the switch above the battery the only speed control?
The switch is variable speed but the top speed is on the electronic gear
What's the intro music?
Intro music: artlist.io/song/2515/selfish
Thanks! I like it.
So why is my DCF887 20V and yours is 18V? Could it be that the units sold in the USA are different than those sold in Britain?
Hi Robert
They are exactly the same machines out of the same factory. The Americans have been sucked into a voltage race and you can actually get a reading of 20 volts on a new battery but only for a couple of minutes. There was a bit of a backlash against this kind of dishonest description in the U.K so they stopped it but you can understand that once one manufacturerdoes it they are all dragged into the swamp.
Thanks for the reply. What you say makes sense since your 18V battery looks like my 20V battery, not like the 18V DeWalt batteries that I use with other tools.
Robert Penoyer The 18v Nominal and 20v comercial are exactly the same. They all use a row of 18650 cells in 5 parallel (3,7v x 5: 18.5v).
The problem comes from that kind of battery charging. The charge voltage of a 18650 cell is 4.1v (4.1x5= 20.5) there comes the problem; these cells only holds its max power a short time, like the firs 10 min of work. Then they hold the power until its 50%. So you normally are working around 19 and 16v. Not 20v.
I have tuned my Makita batteries up to 7ah in the same case.
All brands includes really cheap cells inside their batteries; 1,5ah, 2.0ah cells that are really outdated. Samsung and LG has both 3.5ah single 18650 cells. You can double the power with the same size and weight
Is that double the power or double the runtime from those better cellls?
Skill Builder The power increases by 40w, and run time a 40%. Think about that in cordless tools, 40w is a whole other level.
Normal batteries at the time, lets say 5ah. are giving you 90w. (18 x 5 = 90w).
I gained 36w (18 x 7 = 126).
The most powerfull battery I know in the 20v range is the milwawkee 9ah. But is is insanely expensive.
You can feel the extra power from those 2ah extra, for sure.
I don't recomend to increase the power on old brushed tools, you can easyly burn it. All new cordless tools have a temperature sensor and torque sensor, so it will shut down way before burning out
Excellent machine but again very loud.fluid driven drivers are the future
My Dewalt laser level was stolen from me today, if Dewalt would like to reach out to me I will give a first class genuine review of the new laser.
sorry to hear that. Somebody must be buying all these stolen tools and they should realise that they are as much to blame . If someone tries to sell you a tool take their picture. If it isn't stolen they won't object.
Stolen tools = cheep tools
Situations like that are why Milwaukee one key is a good idea.
Chris Howard just owning red china is a good theft deterrent. No one wants to steal that crap.
I have the 887 and mine is 20v is that particular to England (18v) or is just the age of the video? Pardon the dumb question I'm new to the channel... cheers, thanks... great video
That is a marketing trick that they use in America. It is the same machine but in America they describe it by the peak, not the operating, voltage.
@@SkillBuilder AHHHH so my brother in Canada CAN bring me stuff that'll work, so much cheaper!
Is this a 1/4” or 1/2” impact driver?
1/4 inch. The 1/2 inch is normally called an impact wrench
Thanks!
Does this 90 day refund work at Screwfix? Bought a DCF787N by mistake....
They have stopped doing that refund but just take it back. Screwfix will just send it back to DeWalt
@@SkillBuilder thanks - even after “testing” for a week or two? 🥴
@@SkillBuilder £100 refund - 10% off next purchase voucher and found 887 on ebay for £88 - :P
Hi Where can I buy spare battery and charger. ?
Depends where you are from
The interWeb
Hilti was differently first with the compact, 3 leds and push button 3 speed.
why is it 18v? it should be 20v for the 887.
20v is a lie. In the US, it is allowed to lie. In Europe, it's a bit more difficult. Anyway, it's not 60V or 20V, it's always 56V or 18V nominal, and "60V Max" or "20V Max" as in "peak" voltage. Marketing BS. Still a great tool, I'm on the Dewalt platform. 20V (US bought) and 18V (bought in Europe) are the same, completely interchangeable.
18v vs 20v, 60v vs 54volt; the machines are absolutely identical. It is purely how DeWalt choose to market in the US vs Europe. Same batteries, same cells, same tools, same chargers. Just ordered the 20v MAX chainsaw from 'across the pond', and it works perfectly with my UK spec batts and chargers. Just a labelling issue...
I could do with being a tad stronger I thought mine was broken on that setting it doesn't even put a screw in unless I've piloted the whole
splendid , & thank you , . ///////
I keep my Makita in the van now. I use a Ryobi Quietstrike. I just cant bear the noise anymore.
Scott Campbell plugs in the hears
Kostadin Kondev you’re right but anytime I need to put ears in I’d be doing a big job, I not working on site at the moment. For homers I like the quitestrike.
made in USA?
I very much doubt that the DeWalt is made in the USA. Like most things it is more likely China
+Skill Builder it is made in USA I just bought a dewalt 887 xrp impact
Oh, I stand corrected and, I must admit, surprised. Good to see that there is still some American manufacturing left in Black and Decker Stanley as they now are.
Assembled in the US with global materials
Big difference in made and assembled.
Why can't you drill mansory with this machine?
The difference between a hammer drill (can drill masonry) and impact driver (can not drill masonry) is the direction of the impacts.
Hammer drill impacts perpendicular to the surface, the bit is moving up and down so to speak, hammering the surface while drilling. Impact driver impacts in the direction of rotation and parallel to the surface.
Impact driver is in no way hammering the surface but is trying to fasten/loosen the screw/bolt by pounding it in the direction it rotates.
An impact driver is used for driving screws which use torque applied to them to wedge under and pull themselves through the surface with their thread. It impacts in a rotational direction into the bit, to increase the force it can drive with.
Drilling Masonry, you want a hammer drill. A hammer drill will impact the bit from behind, and force it into the material.
An impact driver is specced for IPM(impacts per minute)
And a hammer drill is rated on BPM blow's per minute.
I have this impact driver, and dewalts heavy duty hammer drill, the DCD996
The driver is 3,800 IPM
The hammer drill is around 38,000 BPM, so about 10 times as fast, and in the correct direction
Because it is not a masonary drill
@@joshbenton810 that's hilarious that they've just use synonyms. you know what a hammer does? it impacts things lol. informative post though. now I know the difference
@@berengerchristy6256 The impact from a hammer is called a blow though, hence why they refer to the hammer drill as BPM.
There are even hammers know as dead blow hammers, which have minimal rebound, much like the baseballs from the dead ball era.
Looking to see if anyone has actually custom painted their impact driver
Used red acrylic paint on mine, did an outline on the tool, looks really cool
I hate the precision drive on this tool. I am returning it because of this "feature". I purchased this for mechanic work, and I wanted to keep it on the lowest setting for 20lb of torque to drive in intake bolts, etc. Not enough torque to break things, pretty close to spec for most small things, sounded great. Because of the precision drive it hesitates for a solid 20 seconds before it starts impacting, pretty much ruining a major reason I bought it. Hopefully they let you turn this off in future iterations, as I absolutely love everything else about this driver and I think it's the best on the market. If you're doing automotive work, stay away for now.
They make an impact wrench that is essentially an 887 with an anvil and They don't have the precision mode that is made for sinking screws. They also just released a 12v brushless impact wrench with low and high torque settings as well as precision wrench more aimed for running lugs on and off. It will break the lug at full power then slow down as not to shoot the bolt off where you can't find it.
We're happy with that after the tool jammed putting a screw in ha
Loosens lug nuts
big pockets lol
Its 20v. It says it all over the tool&batteries
No the 887 is 18V. And if you look at the video, it says it all over the batteries... see 0:54
I must have been confused because I haven't seen anyone use a 18v in years. They usually have those giant NiCad batteries. But all the 887's I can find are 20v...including the one I've been using for about 4 yrs now
@@TheAhirishman I have the DCF887 myself and mine says 20v Max on the side. It's a marketing gimmick. The battery reads 20v right off a fresh charge, but as soon as you use it, the working voltage drops down to 18v. So most 20v cordless tools are actually running in 18v in use, if you read the fine print in the paperwork.
@@TheMacGeek I dont care
It depends in the country as well. In England it is 18v and in the USA it’s 20v
Rattling battery and wobbly chuck collar… a deal-breaker for me.😞
I come from using the DCF 885 is been a great tool and I just bought the DCF 887 and I dislike this tool because the first speed has a delay before it starts impacting. I would say about 10 to 15 seconds. Also the tip wiggles enough to where is difficult to start a screw if you are using an extension. I don't recommend this impact driver. Time for me to order me a Milwaukee impact driver
Saul Sanchez guess I will stay with my 885
The first speed is meant to have a delay, that is the purpose of it so you can drive smaller screws.
In setting #1, the driver will set the screw, stop and if you hold the trigger down it will begin impacting about 20lb/ft until the material/fastener stops it or yields and you strip the hole or take the head off of the screw. I own the 887 and I'm quite happy with the feature but keep to mind that technology only compliments experience and will never replace it...know the tool and your game!
Your a milwaukee guy any way
6mins 8 tool gears jam up or motor lol
Hes stripping the screw. Nothing to do with gears. You're not very smart.
Tony Howell no it jammed up ur not very smart ha
@@micmucky4993 I use this driver constantly 8hrs a day every day. Going through multiple 4Ah batteries a day and have for my particular driver for 4 years. I know what a bit skipping on a Phillips screw sounds like. But please continue being a turd
@@TheAhirishman apparently it has no overload protection so be careful
No, that sound is the impact driver working. It's not slipping on the screws, or the motor, or the gears. It's supposed to make that sound. I have this same tool. After the screw get's tight enough (about half way into the wood), impact mode engages. These tools are amazing for driving screws or lag screws into lumber.
Being the building game most my life and DeWalt tools have been a massive let down over the years they don't even guarantee their batteries because they know that's where the first problem normally occurs second problem normally occurs with the triggers and the parts are ridiculously priced extortionate get it together DeWalt there are much cheaper tools out there that are better quality give your head a wobble wake up to this fact DeWalt offer a 3 year warranty with their tools but it doesn't cover the batteries it would be laughable if it didn't piss me off so much
Floydski Floyd so what impact gun would you recommend instead?
Makita dtd153z brussless is better. in everyway that's what I use sorry to say for dewalt fans
Dewalt is for kids that’s why they are yellow.
I'm sorry you work in a job that isn't in construction, otherwise you'd know your wrong
You look like 100% aryan.
I have never been to India and have no family from there.
@@SkillBuilder may be your family from Germany?
@@Jack_Sparrow17 fuckin idiot
Be warned when buying this drill online... doesn't come with battery.
Depends on if you order it with a battery. You can order the tool only or with batteries.
lol,you can buy any tool solo on internet
You know nothing John Snow
Dewalts 887 is garbage
Nothing wrong with the dewalt 887 I got 2 so I’m happy in fact I got all dewalt stuff
It was placed 1 or 2 in every competition for 3 yrs...only the gen 3 Milwaukee can finally beat it
@francisco tell us what is best, average and garbage to you? We all know the 887 is the garbage placement so what are the other two??
Not gut maschin head its muaving too much.
Dewalt is shit...
Pretty mindless comment
nytom4info why?... Cuz you like Milwaukee and feel better about yourself by talking shit about DeWalt or other brands that you don't use??
I'm sorry your poor