For me I love my impact drivers! Sure the drill might be better in some situations, but I find I almost always use a drill for holes and an impact for screws. Works really well as long as you have good control over the trigger
Yeah I understand some people might not have the control, but I always use my impact. Also the brand quality will help with being able to control it and keep it low speed, I could see cheaper ones not have the same finesse.
The new makita impact is amazing. Has all kinds of settings. Torq levels, one for self tapping screws, even one for bolts. The most controls on an impact ive seen. I still rarely use them and just use my finger as variable speed. But at least they're there if i need them.
@@jacksmith2315 what model is that? Not sure if it's sold here in my country. Should I buy drill or impact? I want to DIY carpentry works at home. Mostly 15mm plywood. Will impact damage the screws or overkill? Btw, I already own Bosch drill 500w but it's corded
@barberismeable its the xdt-16. The newest 18v makita makes. Probably about 2yrs old now. If you already have a corded drill, id get an impact. With an impact, you can do pretty much everything a hammer drill can do except drill concrete, since they make pretty much everything with the quick change/quick lock ends now. Its not too much for any task, because you can adjust settings, or not squeeze the trigger all the way and jus release your finger before something gets too tight since almost everything has variable speed triggers. I have both hammer drill and impact so i pretty much use my impact for fasteners and drill for drilling holes, but sometimes ill put a spade/paddle bit on my impact and blast right thru stuff super fast when im doing rough work and dont need a really clean hole.
Impact is high "horsepower" but low torque which then allows you for very precise control. Like it can spin rapidly but when hitting a certain threshold of torque it will stop just as rapidly. Drill drivers on the other hand are very high torque, but low horsepower - they spin slowly, but they with chew right through your Philips bits and screws like nothing with almost no feedback. Like a sport bike vs a semi. Or another way to describe it is steering. With hydraulic steering, you're in tune with every nuance of the road; every bump and imperfection travels through the wheel to your hands. Electric steering, leave you feeling disconnected - everything's too smooth, too insulated. Exactly the same as Impact vs a drill. And the only reason why it's not obvious to everyone is because drills have torque control and impacts don't have them. The key difference lies in the torque control: drills come with this feature, allowing you to set a torque threshold and avoid overdoing it. But here's the catch - materials like wood aren't consistent, making it nearly impossible to find a 'one-torque-fits-all' setting. Impacts, with their raw, unforgiving power, demand a more seasoned hand. A slight excess pressure on the trigger, and you've overdriven a screw or split the wood. Beginners often lean towards drills, seeking to avoid these mishaps, and over time, they develop a comfort and proficiency with them. But this comfort can become a barrier to mastering the impact driver, which, in skilled hands, can outperform a drill. The longer this goes on - the harder to switch. But this whole debate goes down to this. I worked with someone who was about as experienced as I am and about as fast as I am. He was way faster than couple of other guys. Still, I was faster than him with my old impact. I didn't mess up a single screw and I finished identical piece before him. And I think if he mastered the impact it would be reversed - he would be faster than me.
I've found that newer impact drivers (with speed/torque selection switches) are really incredible for driving fasteners of all kinds but I will take a drill over an impact for ~drilling~ applications any day. Impacts being used properly are also a lot about trigger control. Coming from a construction background I have witnessed many individuals who don't understand what a variable speed trigger is or just don't care as long as they ram that screw in that 2x4. Woodworking involves a lot more patience and care than building a house though.
Thanks AJ! yeah this video is definitely geared towards the home hobbyist woodworker. Trigger control is definitely very important when doing delicate things.
I can confirm most people don't know how to use a variable trigger, they think its on or off. Case in point, tasked my laborer to install the trim ring on a shower mixing valve, heard the BRRRRRRRRRT and knew nothing good was to come of that. Couple hours of trying to find the right length and size screws, right color paint and some trial and error, got the trim ring installed. You can go as slow as you want with variable triggers, most people just send it and blame the bit for the slippage.
@Hloy Hesit i was doing a painting job at a friends house a few days and had to remove and install mini blinds and curtains with a sleeping baby in the next room. It was actually quiter to use my impact that my drill. It was almost 15yrs ago, and my first 12v dewalt brushed set. The impact only hit a couple times, then quietly spun the screws out wo impacting. The drill made the screws screech really loud the entire time, both pulling them and putting them back in the existing holes. I was pretty shocked by that. I thought for sure the impact would have been louder.
I use my impact way more often then my drill. And what you said about the impact not having a speed control, most use a variable speed trigger to control the speed.
One thing he didnt mention as a benefit for impacts apposed to drills and a drill can bind and twist your wrist, an impact wont it will just keep hammering. I thought for sure he was going to mention that but didn't
I still very much like the more total control that a drill gives while driving screws, as well as the quietness. I can feel the exact amount of back pressure from driving a screw, and that helps me gauge how many I need to use to hold something, or whether or not the wood is about to split. And when driving a screw deep into wood, it often takes longer and wastes battery more than a good regular drill.
I'm an impact driver woodworker but do find I never use setting 3 (high) in the shop. One thing wanted to mention is that you can get a quick release/quick lok/quick change but holder that is the same hold and release type the impact has but could be put on the drill and holds the bit unlike the magnetic. Just an option for those using only a drill so I thought I'd mention it, every tool brand makes one for under $10. Great video and info!
Also there's a drill chuck adapter for impact. It's kinda bulky, but nice when you need it; which is rare and I've only used it with a 90° adapter. It's a savior (90°); surprisingly comes up for me more often than the pivoting bit holders.
There's also a driver that you can switch the whole head so you can have a drill, driver, 90°/right angle/ and offset all in one tool. You can install the 90° and offset in multiple positions to have it where you need it in tight spaces. Milwaukee has one in ther m12 line, but i dont like how it has the hand guard making it like like some kind of phaser or something. Dewalt has one in their 12v line thats just like a typical drill or driver. I got the dewalt.
Impacts are super useful for constructive fasteners like lagbolts and long screws, one of the best things about them is they won't break your wrist when a heavy fastener jams.
Even with pre-drilling my drill was absolutely struggling to get in the big torx head structural lags for my deck this summer without either clutching out or breaking my wrist, the impact driver made short work of them though. Definitely a different story for smaller woodworking projects though. Also, having two drills so you don't have to swap between the drill bit and the screw bit when doing a bunch of alternating pre-drills and screws (like when I was laying deck boards) is a huge time saver.
They have a bit that flips so you can predrill and screw all with one bit. I never used one but seen them used a few times. Pretty handy. Its 1/4 hex/quick change so you can put it on your impact
what model is that? Not sure if it's sold here in my country. Should I buy drill or impact? I want to DIY carpentry works at home. Mostly 15mm plywood. Will impact damage the screws or overkill? Btw, I already own Bosch drill 500w but it's corded
7th generation woodworker here (specialty is architectural millwork). Around the time I started professionally, impact drivers were just starting to become widely available. They took over quickly, and before long, every professional woodworker I knew was using impact drivers for every single screw they drove. My drill is only ever used for boring holes. The few times that I have ended up driving a screw with a drill over the past 20 years, I remember why my drills see such little use. Also, in the shops that I have worked in, pre-drilling was not always done. In a lot of cases, the screws were acting more as a clamp until the glue dried, as opposed to being a core structural component. It was very often that minor splits could be acceptable and more often there would be little risk of splitting, so no pre-drilling would be done. As with most things, it's not a hard and fast rule.
in the shops i have worked in everyone mostly used impacts except when needing to using multiple bits. really only used drills for drilling holes we only predrilled if we felt it would be needed but never really had an issue with splitting most screws we used were self tapping, i will say though i used a spade bit on an impact and was blown away how well and fast it worked. we did mostly cabinetry but i mostly did countertops and doors so i didn't use screws as often as others.
I have both from DeWalt also and love them. I find the drill is best for "delicate" and precise tasks where bit torque really matters, but the impact is ideal for "clumsy" high-torque applications like fastening boards together or general "shed work". I got both from a kit a few years back and make a point to use both.
It's almost opposite for me. Impact have more control, drills have more consistent torque. So I use impact for handling delicate screws or just about anything except drilling. And I use my hammer drill for drilling and for hammer drilling because it's more consistent where you don't care about feedback as much, just need powerful unstoppable torque with controlled speed. If you learn how to use impact you will be faster with it.
OR I can copy paste this comment here to explain further: "Impact is high "horsepower" but low torque which then allows you for very precise control. Like it can spin rapidly but when hitting a certain threshold of torque it will stop just as rapidly. Drill drivers on the other hand are very high torque, but low horsepower - they spin slowly, but they with chew right through your Philips bits and screws like nothing with almost no feedback. Like a sport bike vs a semi. Or another way to describe it is steering. With hydraulic steering, you're in tune with every nuance of the road; every bump and imperfection travels through the wheel to your hands. Electric steering, leave you feeling disconnected - everything's too smooth, too insulated. Exactly the same as Impact vs a drill. And the only reason why it's not obvious to everyone is because drills have torque control and impacts don't have them. The key difference lies in the torque control: drills come with this feature, allowing you to set a torque threshold and avoid overdoing it. But here's the catch - materials like wood aren't consistent, making it nearly impossible to find a 'one-torque-fits-all' setting. Impacts, with their raw, unforgiving power, demand a more seasoned hand. A slight excess pressure on the trigger, and you've overdriven a screw or split the wood. Beginners often lean towards drills, seeking to avoid these mishaps, and over time, they develop a comfort and proficiency with them. But this comfort can become a barrier to mastering the impact driver, which, in skilled hands, can outperform a drill. The longer this goes on - the harder to switch. But this whole debate goes down to this. I worked with someone who was about as experienced as I am and about as fast as I am. He was way faster than couple of other guys. Still, I was faster than him with my old impact. I didn't mess up a single screw and I finished identical piece before him. And I think if he mastered the impact it would be reversed - he would be faster than me."
I splashed out on one of the 'fluid drive' impact drivers (Milwaukee for me, for sentimental reasons I won't bore you with) and don't regret a penny of it. SOOO much nicer to use - less vibration, less noise. And yes, it has a speed switch and yes, that (plus a bit of practice, always a useful thing) helps avoid broken screws.
I still have my dad's old Black & Decker drill from the seventies. It works great after being cleaned up, and regreased inside. I have four drills, but have not yet acquired an impact driver.
Great discussion! Like you, I’ve settled on the DeWalt platform (debated between them and Milwaukee - but my home builder and most contractors seem to use yellow & black around here - though Milwaukee tools are excellent too). I relegate my impact driver to construction projects (deck building, etc.) and rely on my drill driver for 99.99% of woodworking. Two primary reasons for this: (1) if you need the power of an impact driver for furniture, you’re doing something wrong probably, and (2) the speed of driving a screw into wood with an impact driver can lead to the wood splitting whereas the slower speed of a drill-driver allows the wood to “relax” a bit to accommodate it better IMHO. Thanks and keep up the great work!
I like DeWalt. They might not be the best tool in every test, but they're usually in the top three every time and seem to last really well. And if you're buying into a battery ecosystem for cordless tools, it's a pretty good option.
Your tiny segment on impact drivers is far more accurate and descriptive than alot of full-length videos dedicated to drills/impacts and how they work. Like, not to bad-mouth anyone, but you kinda put quite a few much bigger channels to shame there. Good job!
For your concern @1:07, Wera makes a bitholder (in magnetic or non-magnetic) that has a snap/quick-change and then your bit doesn't pop out. They're pretty great.
Spot on there Scott. I have both but don't use the impact until the monster screws come out to play. You know the ones. I love your videos. To the point with just the right amount of humor. Hang in there someday you will get to have a bigger shop.
Scott as a Canadian you know that they are properly referred to as “Robertson” drive not square 😉 I consider my impact driver a renovation tool that I couldn’t live without but never reach for when building furniture. I have been trying to justify that Festool gun with the cool handle as I really like the shape but the house foreman hasn’t approved that purchase yet.
Festool is nice but we have found them lacking in the field simply due to ergonomics, if you are going to spend that kind of money go Hilti all day every day.
One day I went down a rabbit hole of the history of Robertson screws. If I recall correctly, Robertson still has a patent on a particular geometry (I think it's the taper angle) and they claim that you should only use Robertson brand bits with Robertson brand screws. Any deviation is considered sacrilege to them 🤷♂️
But outside North America, I think hardly anyone has heard of them, so its more informative to describe them. In Europe far more folk now use Torx, which I think is the best, and also the screws sit obediently on the end of the driver bit while you get into position, very handy if you're using stainless steel screws. Posidriv or Phillips, yuk...
Regarding the drill charging station, because I have tall ceilings in my basement shop, I placed my drill driver, impact driver, right angle driver, bit holders, pneumatic hose, vacuum hose, 115VAC outlet, and other related items in a storage system right above where I stand at my main bench. They are all in easy reach for immediate use, and they don’t take up valuable wall space. The system doesn’t interfere with the headroom above the bench or vise for large items, and it saves travel time because I don’t have to walk to a wall to get stuff. Lastly, having the power supply, air hose, and vacuum hose coming from overhead declutters the bench and floor. Hope this helps!
I'm a member of a Men's Shed group. Three years ago we replaced our stolen Milwaukee gear with new ones that turned out to be brushless, very nice. But what was intriguing was the pair of impact drivers: they have three different torque settings AND a drill-only setting. Often they are used on the drill setting because of the really short head compared to the pair of cordless hammer drills which are almost twice the length.
Fair points, instead of using the basic magnetic holders look for a quick change bit holder that have a collar you pull back just like with the impact drills to lock bits in. Impacts are way underutilized if not use for removing 9/16 nuts and bolts and up. As for a several hundred screws in an hour argument one might make for an impact well there is a better tool for that and its a Screw Gun.
Even when doing decking or installing a bunch of hangers with screws i still prefer impact of screw gun. The only reason i would buy a screw gun is if i did sheetrock for a living cause they wont over sink them. Other than that drill and impact is the way to go for everything else. Drill for holes impact for fasteners. I have a set of drill bits with the 1/4 hex/quick change, i still use them in my drill instead of in the impact. Something about impacting on a drill bit doesnt sit well with me. Except for hammer drill with concrete of course
If you want a impact for wood working I definitely recommend the m12 surge it’s not extremely powerful, and the hydraulic makes it quieter. I personally have one to use when installing and working on cabinets.
I wish I found this video when I was a newbie shopping around for tools. Very informative, provides correct situations on when each tool would be wanted, and short/to the point.
@1:05 Rapidaptor by Wera. It will change your life. It's meant for an impact, but you can chuck it up on a drill and works WONDERFULLY. Life's just too short to always be picking up the damn bit. I do like impacts because it's lighter and fits better in a confined space. But hearing protection is a must (and annoying to others) :) As for spin of death, once you go to spax or square drive, it's a thing of the past. But I did not know about impacts ability to sink in the bit. Learn something new every day.
A good bit attachment that 9/10 won’t remove the bit when you pull back is dewalts magnetic holder. Round head shape cost about 6-12$ depending on size. Totally worth it use it with ratchets too.
I like Steve Ramsay’s logic for having both as essential tools: ones for drilling, ones for driving. I know that drills can do both, but it’s easier to have one set up for drilling pilot holes and one set up for driving screws.
Same, I try to stick to using them separately when I can. Either can technically do the others job, sure, but the impact driver does SOOO much better at driving Send and the drill is easier to control and is way quieter for drilling.
Been using my bosch impact nearly every day for the last 6 years. Never went back to a drill for fasteners. I don't know about dewalt but my bosch has a motor that slows down as you squeeze less on the trigger so I guess you'd call it variable speed. This has been infinitely helpful at giving me precise depth control of all fasteners. Something you really don't get with a drill at all.
Tips: clutch bitholders from ”Essve” keeps the bit rock steady (its locked in). Can’t imagine Wera’s and Festool’s alternatives in the same price range didn’t solve this problem either.
I have a Bosch 12v impact and driver combo set. I use them both all the time with wood working. The impact is great for counter sinking, and I can use the variable trigger to make sure I don't drive thru the wood, it's all in the use of the tool.
I've been using the DeWalt Gyroscopic Driver (DCF680N2) for smaller and delicate screws. It's also fantastic for anything around the house where the drill is just over kill.
I need an impact. I love the quick release and also the shorter nose helps get into places the long nose of the drill cant. Plus when im working on a piece having one rig set up to drill and 1 set up to secure cuts down how much i need to change.
I've finally finished orbiting around TH-cam's uncountable amount of youtubers and come back to binge some Scott Walsh and I have to say let's get the popcorn out because you are awesome!!! Just the perfect mix of humorous and educational content 🙌 And all that from a shop size that I can get inspiration from to make my own small space work better!! 🎉
I got an M18 fid2 impact driver this year. I've had a quick release M18 drill for 6 years. I definitely find myself going for the impact driver when dealing with screws. I usually keep it on setting 1. Recently laid a new subfloor, 18mm ply onto old beams, 5mm x 80mm screws. Used setting 2 for speed and grenaded 4 Milwaukee brand bits in an hour. I see why they put multiple in a box now. Got the job done and no broken screws at least.
I love my impact, but if your main reason to use one is the bit holder (and you can't find a good "magnetic" one for your drill) just get a Wera Rapidaptor or similar. My small 12V Bosch "Flexiclick" has a bit holder chuck too, doesn't DeWalt do a version of that, if it has to be yellow and black?
The makita magnetic bitholder locks the bit in the holder enough so it wont fall out or stay in the screw, switching the bits is also easy with a push/pull ring to release the bit. Solves the problem at 1:13
1:09 Diablo DXT1010 (6") and DXT1020 (12") are the answer you're looking for. they will hold ANYTHING that's 1/4" hex, even 1" driver bits without the retention detent, i use them with bosch daredevils instead of 18-24" long auger bits all the time. also, am woodworker. drill is for drilling holes and delicate stuff i need the clutch for, impact is for everything else. i find screws get stripped far less often with an impact than a drill. i live in canuckistan and we use robertsons/square drive a lot. the momentary hits from an impact are far less likely to cam out and chowder up screws than the constant drive of a drill.
I have that exact same DeWalt XR drill/driver combo, and I must admit I don't use the impact driver nearly as often as the drill - it's doesn't give nearly as much control over setting screws, and it's much too easy to bury a screw deep in your workpiece. I much prefer working with the greater finesse of the drill's clutch control. Use a locking bit holder on the drill, and bit changes are just as quick and secure as on the impact. I'd only use the impact for driving a large quantity of screws very fast, e.g. for decking.
I’ve found that the impact is best for rough carpentry / construction and the drill is superior when finer control is needed, generally when making more precision cabinets or similar furniture. To be fair I’ve never had a chance to try an impact with multi settings, and for the record I have several corded drills, one a 1980’s Black&Decker 😂 but 2 are more recent quite powerful Milwaukee drills, and when drilling other stuff like stone with them, having a keyed chuck is indispensable.
I use my 12v milwaukee driver for most less than construction grade work. It’s light, small and fairly strong, excels at finer tasks, but for a 2.5-3” screw it’s not practical. Impacts are kind of noisy, you don’t get a good feel of how much torque is being applied to a screw, but it’s still the right tool for the bigger stuff.
Great video and thank you for making it! There are bit holders that you pull out, put the bit in, and push it back in. They don't fall out. I have two. I agree the magnetic ones aren't desirable.
I own both but never really use the impact for any woodworking stuff. It's louder, harder to control and even slower on bigger screws. Only for losening screws in metal, it's great because it's reactionless.
I work with all kinds of materials, and find that impact drivers are excellent for wood. It's a question of becoming familiar with the tools you use. On softer wood, or delicate woodwork I'll switch to a very simple small portable home drill
@@waynebrown7065 Not essential, but it helps to give a bit more space, making things a little easier. Cheap kits from a local hardware store will most likely come with a simple adapter like seen in the video.
I use the m18 fuel impact and drill and I’ve only broken 1 screw head, and that was right after I got it and was just testing it out. Since then, I have hardly took it out of speed 2 and use trigger discipline to not over or under drive them. I know this video is geared more toward beginners, which is why I think the variable speed trigger and trigger discipline shouldn’t be overlooked when learning how to use impacts.
The issue where the bit stays stuck in the screw head, is solvable by using a quick release bit holder. The big brands like DeWalt have their own versions of it, but there is a good chance it is in one of the bit sets.
Why is there no mention of machines that do both? My small and fairly cheap bosch home can drill and be used as impact driver with fine adjustments to the torque. It has two speed settings but depending on how strongly I pull the "trigger", the speed can be varied by a lot manually. Should that not be the best of both worlds for any hobbyist?
My dad had a Craftsman drill from 1962. I wasn't strong enough to lift it until 1972. I had a B&D drill that I bought in the mid-80's. I had it until about 4 years ago. It was variable speed but very hard to control. I can't believe I waited so long to buy a "modern" drill.
The same style bit holder is available for drills. I just use two drills or a bit holder that lets me switch from drill bit to drive bit easily. I like two drills as I have a clutch to drive screws... I like the clutch...
wood worker /Glazier here. been using impacts for a very long time when i need it . Why should i use a tool with the added weight of the chuck if i do not need it ?
Hey I'm a Carpenter and Deck Builder and also a Woodworker, and I use impact driver a lot! But only 1 brand I use when it comes to woodworking or Carpentry and That's Makita! It's either my Makita XDT-16 or my Japanese Made Makita TD172, TD-173 18V and TD-002G XGT-40V all of them have 4 Speed with extra features! That's Auto Mode!, Bolt Mode, Tapper Mode #1 and Tapper Mode #2 And I love these features! It's a perfect impact driver for me!
The only problem I have with my impact is that if the screw does not have a long blank shoulder it will not pull the wood together so I still have to predrill anyways. However, I did find that doing some demolition wanting to reuse the lumber, the impact was THE tool and took very tight screws our with ease, some even being reusable as well.
Great video! I got a set of DeWalt 24 V drill/impact driver about six months ago. I kept trying to swap the impact driver with friends for… Just about anything. Unfortunately, everybody bought the same set. Thanks to your video, I am rethinking my view on impact drivers.… I especially enjoyed “I’m the life of the party”😂 informative video… Keep it up.
Great video as always dude! I use my impact driver on my furniture pieces all the time and never had a problem either, it’s all personal preference isn’t it like you say mate ☺️🤙🏻
I'm using impact in the factory/workshop in almost all scenarios.... We're working with CNC because we're making lots of projects, So the CNC operator gets all the wood ready (Plywood, Hardwood or MDF for doors, Depends on the client idea/request) Then it goes into the painting room/oven and when we do pre-assembly (Before it goes into the client for installation) we're doing everything with impacts, Drawers, Shelfs, Hangers, Boxings and everything in between... Also If we touch impact subject I can say from long time experience that Makita impacts very reliable, Working non-stop without issues...
Thank you for this video. It answered all of my questions and in just over six minutes, now I have time to watch a couple of ghost and alien videos before I get working!
New subscriber here. I am learning about impact drivers for attaching wood studs to a metal purlin frame in Garage/shop. So I am considering a impact for self drilling screws into hard metal (metal purlins). I have used a drill with a clutch but the Philips pops out and I want to try the impact driver. You have many comments that apply to me. About the brand, I agree. I am with Ryobi because of the investment in batteries. I would lean toward Milwaukee if I were starting now, but have been using these Ryobi’s for 10 years. Thanks again for your video!
I like to think of impact tools as the mechanical analog to pulse width modulation (or PWM) in electronic circuits, an alternative and in many ways superior way to get as much power from a power source and to finely control the power going into the "load" as possible, be it a screw going into wood or an LED light source. Often it's preferable to finely controlling a continuous power supply.
The impact is amazing with a hole saw, it just doesn't try to break your wrist in the first place. I think the Impact excels anywhere binding could happen but you still want to power through it. If you don't want to power through it, the drill is nice because of the clutch. always use the right tool for the job!
95% of my drill and driver use in the shop is mounting things to the wall, building storage solutions, or making/taking apart old jigs to reuse parts. I always use both. I have zero interest in changing the drill bit out for the driver bit every time. If you can get a good deal on a Drill and Driver (with battery) combo, it's worth it. Plus, the driver is really helpful for outdoor projects when driving long things into treated lumber. I strip far less screws with the impact because the braaap gives me a heads up that I am getting close, and to be careful.
Oh! the racket. Contractors exterior trimming my house used impact drivers on hundreds of trim screws. Meanwhile my fess tool was quietly trimming the garage. I have found the impact is excellent for self tapping sheet metal screw’s especially in heavy gauges. Don’t forget lug nuts and machine bolts. Makita 9.6 was the first worthwhile cordless drill. Still have one in the shop dedicated with a hex shanked counter sink bit.
I am sure somebody already mentioned this, but Dewalt does make a screwdriver function. Which has the impact end as well as a clutch setting. Milwaukee 12 V system all also has a screwdriver. Both from what I heard are pretty excellent.
0:41 - quick change bit release do exist on drills, the Bosch Flexiclicks have that, which is a very convenient feature. Also, in construction, you might prefer impact drivers because you don't have to really push those into the screw, which is an advantage if you stand on a scaffolding, because if you push the machine in, it also means you push yourself away from the building you are standing on, and you might not want to do that 😉
Like anything else it just depends. If I’m going to be doing a lot of drilling and sinking fasteners I’ll want one tool to drill and one to drive screws to avoid changing bits over and over and over again. For smaller projects I’ll just pull out the drill and call it good. And I also agree with racking up all these different drills and drivers, for what? I have the M12 drill and drivers and the m18 drill and drivers and that’s plenty to do essentially everything. I’ve even used my M18 impact to take lugs off of cars in a pinch (not that I can recommend that lol)
I'm a professional remodeler and I can tell you that you can develop your skill with the trigger where you use an impact driver on small delicate screws without overdoing it. I have the impact drivers that you can select three different settings and I sometimes use the lower settings but I usually don't need it even for small screws. You do have to use some finesse with that trigger though or it will overdo it. If you want a DeWalt that has the three settings, the 887 model has that feature and you can get it pretty cheap. If you want the best hammer drill from DeWalt, the 999 kit is a great choice and it comes with a 6 amp battery. This is probably more than most hobbyists need but I can easily use it to drill one inch holes through a concrete block wall. I also have a small non hammer drill that takes the same batteries, it usually lives in my house while the DCD 999 lives in my truck. Funny story I forgot my impact driver was on the number 1 setting and I changed batteries thinking that the battery was dead when I tried to drive a 3-inch screw. And then after I changed the battery I thought something was wrong with the tool. Then I finally figured out that I had left it on setting 1 which I rarely use. I only had impact drivers with the high setting for so many years I got used to not having that feature. I kind of had to get in the habit of using the different settings and I still usually just leave it on number 3. The reason I always had the single setting models is because the ones with three settings we're not invented yet.
I use a drill with a screwdriver clutch, a dedicated screwdriver with a quick-change bit holder (very good clutch) and an impact driver. These 3 tools meet nearly all drilling/driving needs in the shop and operate on the the 12 volt Dewalt battery platform. In addition, I have Milwaukee M18 hammer drill and M18 impact driver for heavier work (framing, deck, etc.). Thanks.
You're right with the amount. Even on site, can't say I've ever had more than 2 drills, an impact and an SDS all in the same place at once and that has only happened a handful of times
I have seen plenty woodworkers using impact drivers. I also see a lot like 1:08 who cant seem to hold it straight, what is up with that is the more interesting question to me
sure you never heard ...probably you never been in a garage or remove a car wheel...its stupid to say that.. you never heard the noise of an air impact gun at the mechanic shop?
The only thing I don't like using the impact for is pocket hole screws, I like being able to feel the drill torque my wrist when the screw grabs on to the end of the pocket hole
Get like a Wera Bit Holder, the lock in the bit really tight, so they never get oulled out and stuck on the screw again. I prefere having like three machines at hand when working, reduces the the amount of changing bits/drills etc
Having one battery platform is a perfectly reasonable thing to want. J Katz Moses did a comparison of routers and found the DeWalt one to be among the best, for one of the few objective-ish data points here. I’m a Ridgid shop, knew a guy in college who swore by them, and yes one compact drill and driver are enough. I did go for the DeWalt corded plunge router though.
I use a Milwaukee impact driver, I'm an idiot because I just ram everything into place. When I have a doubt if it will get tight enough I get bigger screws. No it doesn't look pretty, no I'm not a real woodworker. But oh boy, I've never had anything come apart :p I do have a lot of respect for your work, I wish I've had the patience to create such nice things as you do. But I don't, so for me it's : just eyeball it with a bit of measuring -> ram it into place - > doesn't fit nice? -> try again. Mostly this works, but when it doesn't it takes more time then to do it right (like you do) in the first try. Turns out people are different 😂 and somewhere there's a balance between everyone. By the way, love your channel. I use allot of tips you provide, if I don't forget.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking Probably true. I even inherited it at some point when I moved out, but now I am happy with my Dewalt Drill & Impact Driver set :)
Both are great, period. Although, as a Carpenter, I find myself using my impact more at work, particularly with metal sheet. In saying that, It also works well for larger Screws on hobby projects (better than a regular drill, I've found) Like Scott, honestly, go Brushless.
I love my impact driver
Me too
Same, in love with my Dewalt XR, get a boner at every screws in 😂
@@rhinoman5078 tf bro took it too far
@@yobtnirp3D it’s the internet… there is no such thing as too far 😂😂
@user-oq5jn2nl5q I can see that, using tools is just fun
For me I love my impact drivers! Sure the drill might be better in some situations, but I find I almost always use a drill for holes and an impact for screws. Works really well as long as you have good control over the trigger
Yeah I understand some people might not have the control, but I always use my impact. Also the brand quality will help with being able to control it and keep it low speed, I could see cheaper ones not have the same finesse.
The new makita impact is amazing. Has all kinds of settings. Torq levels, one for self tapping screws, even one for bolts. The most controls on an impact ive seen. I still rarely use them and just use my finger as variable speed. But at least they're there if i need them.
@@jacksmith2315 what model is that? Not sure if it's sold here in my country. Should I buy drill or impact? I want to DIY carpentry works at home. Mostly 15mm plywood. Will impact damage the screws or overkill? Btw, I already own Bosch drill 500w but it's corded
@barberismeable its the xdt-16. The newest 18v makita makes. Probably about 2yrs old now. If you already have a corded drill, id get an impact. With an impact, you can do pretty much everything a hammer drill can do except drill concrete, since they make pretty much everything with the quick change/quick lock ends now. Its not too much for any task, because you can adjust settings, or not squeeze the trigger all the way and jus release your finger before something gets too tight since almost everything has variable speed triggers. I have both hammer drill and impact so i pretty much use my impact for fasteners and drill for drilling holes, but sometimes ill put a spade/paddle bit on my impact and blast right thru stuff super fast when im doing rough work and dont need a really clean hole.
Impact is high "horsepower" but low torque which then allows you for very precise control. Like it can spin rapidly but when hitting a certain threshold of torque it will stop just as rapidly. Drill drivers on the other hand are very high torque, but low horsepower - they spin slowly, but they with chew right through your Philips bits and screws like nothing with almost no feedback.
Like a sport bike vs a semi.
Or another way to describe it is steering. With hydraulic steering, you're in tune with every nuance of the road; every bump and imperfection travels through the wheel to your hands. Electric steering, leave you feeling disconnected - everything's too smooth, too insulated. Exactly the same as Impact vs a drill.
And the only reason why it's not obvious to everyone is because drills have torque control and impacts don't have them.
The key difference lies in the torque control: drills come with this feature, allowing you to set a torque threshold and avoid overdoing it. But here's the catch - materials like wood aren't consistent, making it nearly impossible to find a 'one-torque-fits-all' setting.
Impacts, with their raw, unforgiving power, demand a more seasoned hand. A slight excess pressure on the trigger, and you've overdriven a screw or split the wood.
Beginners often lean towards drills, seeking to avoid these mishaps, and over time, they develop a comfort and proficiency with them. But this comfort can become a barrier to mastering the impact driver, which, in skilled hands, can outperform a drill.
The longer this goes on - the harder to switch.
But this whole debate goes down to this.
I worked with someone who was about as experienced as I am and about as fast as I am. He was way faster than couple of other guys.
Still, I was faster than him with my old impact. I didn't mess up a single screw and I finished identical piece before him. And I think if he mastered the impact it would be reversed - he would be faster than me.
I've found that newer impact drivers (with speed/torque selection switches) are really incredible for driving fasteners of all kinds but I will take a drill over an impact for ~drilling~ applications any day. Impacts being used properly are also a lot about trigger control. Coming from a construction background I have witnessed many individuals who don't understand what a variable speed trigger is or just don't care as long as they ram that screw in that 2x4. Woodworking involves a lot more patience and care than building a house though.
Thanks AJ! yeah this video is definitely geared towards the home hobbyist woodworker. Trigger control is definitely very important when doing delicate things.
I can confirm most people don't know how to use a variable trigger, they think its on or off. Case in point, tasked my laborer to install the trim ring on a shower mixing valve, heard the BRRRRRRRRRT and knew nothing good was to come of that. Couple hours of trying to find the right length and size screws, right color paint and some trial and error, got the trim ring installed. You can go as slow as you want with variable triggers, most people just send it and blame the bit for the slippage.
Listening to someone drill holes with an impact all day drives me crazy.
@Hloy Hesit i was doing a painting job at a friends house a few days and had to remove and install mini blinds and curtains with a sleeping baby in the next room. It was actually quiter to use my impact that my drill. It was almost 15yrs ago, and my first 12v dewalt brushed set. The impact only hit a couple times, then quietly spun the screws out wo impacting. The drill made the screws screech really loud the entire time, both pulling them and putting them back in the existing holes. I was pretty shocked by that. I thought for sure the impact would have been louder.
I use my impact way more often then my drill. And what you said about the impact not having a speed control, most use a variable speed trigger to control the speed.
I'm a professional cabinet maker and use my impact everyday!! Couldn't live without it.
"professional cabinet maker' would be about as far from hobbyist level as you can get though.
@@danielbrown9368 Indeed, but he should still be a woodworker.
You are the first person I've seen explain how an impact driver works and why it's desirable in an understandable and complete way. Thank you!
One thing he didnt mention as a benefit for impacts apposed to drills and a drill can bind and twist your wrist, an impact wont it will just keep hammering. I thought for sure he was going to mention that but didn't
@@jacksmith2315 0:36
I still very much like the more total control that a drill gives while driving screws, as well as the quietness. I can feel the exact amount of back pressure from driving a screw, and that helps me gauge how many I need to use to hold something, or whether or not the wood is about to split. And when driving a screw deep into wood, it often takes longer and wastes battery more than a good regular drill.
I'm an impact driver woodworker but do find I never use setting 3 (high) in the shop. One thing wanted to mention is that you can get a quick release/quick lok/quick change but holder that is the same hold and release type the impact has but could be put on the drill and holds the bit unlike the magnetic. Just an option for those using only a drill so I thought I'd mention it, every tool brand makes one for under $10. Great video and info!
Also there's a drill chuck adapter for impact. It's kinda bulky, but nice when you need it; which is rare and I've only used it with a 90° adapter. It's a savior (90°); surprisingly comes up for me more often than the pivoting bit holders.
There's also a driver that you can switch the whole head so you can have a drill, driver, 90°/right angle/ and offset all in one tool. You can install the 90° and offset in multiple positions to have it where you need it in tight spaces. Milwaukee has one in ther m12 line, but i dont like how it has the hand guard making it like like some kind of phaser or something. Dewalt has one in their 12v line thats just like a typical drill or driver. I got the dewalt.
Impacts are super useful for constructive fasteners like lagbolts and long screws, one of the best things about them is they won't break your wrist when a heavy fastener jams.
I thought he was going to mention the advantage of an impact just hammering instead of the drill twisting your wrist when they bind
i need Anti-kickback system :)
Even with pre-drilling my drill was absolutely struggling to get in the big torx head structural lags for my deck this summer without either clutching out or breaking my wrist, the impact driver made short work of them though. Definitely a different story for smaller woodworking projects though. Also, having two drills so you don't have to swap between the drill bit and the screw bit when doing a bunch of alternating pre-drills and screws (like when I was laying deck boards) is a huge time saver.
They have a bit that flips so you can predrill and screw all with one bit. I never used one but seen them used a few times. Pretty handy. Its 1/4 hex/quick change so you can put it on your impact
what model is that? Not sure if it's sold here in my country. Should I buy drill or impact? I want to DIY carpentry works at home. Mostly 15mm plywood. Will impact damage the screws or overkill? Btw, I already own Bosch drill 500w but it's corded
7th generation woodworker here (specialty is architectural millwork). Around the time I started professionally, impact drivers were just starting to become widely available. They took over quickly, and before long, every professional woodworker I knew was using impact drivers for every single screw they drove. My drill is only ever used for boring holes. The few times that I have ended up driving a screw with a drill over the past 20 years, I remember why my drills see such little use.
Also, in the shops that I have worked in, pre-drilling was not always done. In a lot of cases, the screws were acting more as a clamp until the glue dried, as opposed to being a core structural component. It was very often that minor splits could be acceptable and more often there would be little risk of splitting, so no pre-drilling would be done. As with most things, it's not a hard and fast rule.
in the shops i have worked in everyone mostly used impacts except when needing to using multiple bits. really only used drills for drilling holes we only predrilled if we felt it would be needed but never really had an issue with splitting most screws we used were self tapping, i will say though i used a spade bit on an impact and was blown away how well and fast it worked. we did mostly cabinetry but i mostly did countertops and doors so i didn't use screws as often as others.
I have both from DeWalt also and love them. I find the drill is best for "delicate" and precise tasks where bit torque really matters, but the impact is ideal for "clumsy" high-torque applications like fastening boards together or general "shed work". I got both from a kit a few years back and make a point to use both.
It's almost opposite for me.
Impact have more control, drills have more consistent torque. So I use impact for handling delicate screws or just about anything except drilling. And I use my hammer drill for drilling and for hammer drilling because it's more consistent where you don't care about feedback as much, just need powerful unstoppable torque with controlled speed.
If you learn how to use impact you will be faster with it.
OR I can copy paste this comment here to explain further: "Impact is high "horsepower" but low torque which then allows you for very precise control. Like it can spin rapidly but when hitting a certain threshold of torque it will stop just as rapidly. Drill drivers on the other hand are very high torque, but low horsepower - they spin slowly, but they with chew right through your Philips bits and screws like nothing with almost no feedback.
Like a sport bike vs a semi.
Or another way to describe it is steering. With hydraulic steering, you're in tune with every nuance of the road; every bump and imperfection travels through the wheel to your hands. Electric steering, leave you feeling disconnected - everything's too smooth, too insulated. Exactly the same as Impact vs a drill.
And the only reason why it's not obvious to everyone is because drills have torque control and impacts don't have them.
The key difference lies in the torque control: drills come with this feature, allowing you to set a torque threshold and avoid overdoing it. But here's the catch - materials like wood aren't consistent, making it nearly impossible to find a 'one-torque-fits-all' setting.
Impacts, with their raw, unforgiving power, demand a more seasoned hand. A slight excess pressure on the trigger, and you've overdriven a screw or split the wood.
Beginners often lean towards drills, seeking to avoid these mishaps, and over time, they develop a comfort and proficiency with them. But this comfort can become a barrier to mastering the impact driver, which, in skilled hands, can outperform a drill.
The longer this goes on - the harder to switch.
But this whole debate goes down to this.
I worked with someone who was about as experienced as I am and about as fast as I am. He was way faster than couple of other guys.
Still, I was faster than him with my old impact. I didn't mess up a single screw and I finished identical piece before him. And I think if he mastered the impact it would be reversed - he would be faster than me."
I splashed out on one of the 'fluid drive' impact drivers (Milwaukee for me, for sentimental reasons I won't bore you with) and don't regret a penny of it. SOOO much nicer to use - less vibration, less noise. And yes, it has a speed switch and yes, that (plus a bit of practice, always a useful thing) helps avoid broken screws.
I still have my dad's old Black & Decker drill from the seventies. It works great after being cleaned up, and regreased inside. I have four drills, but have not yet acquired an impact driver.
Great discussion! Like you, I’ve settled on the DeWalt platform (debated between them and Milwaukee - but my home builder and most contractors seem to use yellow & black around here - though Milwaukee tools are excellent too). I relegate my impact driver to construction projects (deck building, etc.) and rely on my drill driver for 99.99% of woodworking. Two primary reasons for this: (1) if you need the power of an impact driver for furniture, you’re doing something wrong probably, and (2) the speed of driving a screw into wood with an impact driver can lead to the wood splitting whereas the slower speed of a drill-driver allows the wood to “relax” a bit to accommodate it better IMHO.
Thanks and keep up the great work!
I like DeWalt. They might not be the best tool in every test, but they're usually in the top three every time and seem to last really well. And if you're buying into a battery ecosystem for cordless tools, it's a pretty good option.
Your tiny segment on impact drivers is far more accurate and descriptive than alot of full-length videos dedicated to drills/impacts and how they work. Like, not to bad-mouth anyone, but you kinda put quite a few much bigger channels to shame there. Good job!
For your concern @1:07, Wera makes a bitholder (in magnetic or non-magnetic) that has a snap/quick-change and then your bit doesn't pop out. They're pretty great.
Spot on there Scott. I have both but don't use the impact until the monster screws come out to play. You know the ones. I love your videos. To the point with just the right amount of humor. Hang in there someday you will get to have a bigger shop.
If they're that big I get out the battery hammer drill, set to drive and boom, big screws fly in.
Scott as a Canadian you know that they are properly referred to as “Robertson” drive not square 😉 I consider my impact driver a renovation tool that I couldn’t live without but never reach for when building furniture. I have been trying to justify that Festool gun with the cool handle as I really like the shape but the house foreman hasn’t approved that purchase yet.
Festool is nice but we have found them lacking in the field simply due to ergonomics, if you are going to spend that kind of money go Hilti all day every day.
One day I went down a rabbit hole of the history of Robertson screws. If I recall correctly, Robertson still has a patent on a particular geometry (I think it's the taper angle) and they claim that you should only use Robertson brand bits with Robertson brand screws. Any deviation is considered sacrilege to them 🤷♂️
At my house it’s better to ask forgiveness than to ask permission. I just do what I want. Then it’s already done.
But outside North America, I think hardly anyone has heard of them, so its more informative to describe them. In Europe far more folk now use Torx, which I think is the best, and also the screws sit obediently on the end of the driver bit while you get into position, very handy if you're using stainless steel screws. Posidriv or Phillips, yuk...
DeWalt has a bit holder kit (DWAFTAS-9) that is magnetic and it locks the bits in. So the bit stays in when you pull it off the screw.
Regarding the drill charging station, because I have tall ceilings in my basement shop, I placed my drill driver, impact driver, right angle driver, bit holders, pneumatic hose, vacuum hose, 115VAC outlet, and other related items in a storage system right above where I stand at my main bench. They are all in easy reach for immediate use, and they don’t take up valuable wall space. The system doesn’t interfere with the headroom above the bench or vise for large items, and it saves travel time because I don’t have to walk to a wall to get stuff. Lastly, having the power supply, air hose, and vacuum hose coming from overhead declutters the bench and floor.
Hope this helps!
The “marketing really does work on me 🤔” made me subscribe. Bravo sir. Bravo.
I'm a member of a Men's Shed group. Three years ago we replaced our stolen Milwaukee gear with new ones that turned out to be brushless, very nice. But what was intriguing was the pair of impact drivers: they have three different torque settings AND a drill-only setting. Often they are used on the drill setting because of the really short head compared to the pair of cordless hammer drills which are almost twice the length.
Fair points, instead of using the basic magnetic holders look for a quick change bit holder that have a collar you pull back just like with the impact drills to lock bits in.
Impacts are way underutilized if not use for removing 9/16 nuts and bolts and up. As for a several hundred screws in an hour argument one might make for an impact well there is a better tool for that and its a Screw Gun.
Even when doing decking or installing a bunch of hangers with screws i still prefer impact of screw gun. The only reason i would buy a screw gun is if i did sheetrock for a living cause they wont over sink them. Other than that drill and impact is the way to go for everything else. Drill for holes impact for fasteners. I have a set of drill bits with the 1/4 hex/quick change, i still use them in my drill instead of in the impact. Something about impacting on a drill bit doesnt sit well with me. Except for hammer drill with concrete of course
If you want a impact for wood working I definitely recommend the m12 surge it’s not extremely powerful, and the hydraulic makes it quieter. I personally have one to use when installing and working on cabinets.
Agreed. Hydraulic impacts are a different animal altogether.
I wish I found this video when I was a newbie shopping around for tools. Very informative, provides correct situations on when each tool would be wanted, and short/to the point.
@1:05 Rapidaptor by Wera. It will change your life. It's meant for an impact, but you can chuck it up on a drill and works WONDERFULLY. Life's just too short to always be picking up the damn bit. I do like impacts because it's lighter and fits better in a confined space. But hearing protection is a must (and annoying to others) :) As for spin of death, once you go to spax or square drive, it's a thing of the past. But I did not know about impacts ability to sink in the bit. Learn something new every day.
I came to see if anyone had said anything. These are indeed great. There are competing products, but it's one of the nicer ones.
A good bit attachment that 9/10 won’t remove the bit when you pull back is dewalts magnetic holder. Round head shape cost about 6-12$ depending on size. Totally worth it use it with ratchets too.
I like Steve Ramsay’s logic for having both as essential tools: ones for drilling, ones for driving. I know that drills can do both, but it’s easier to have one set up for drilling pilot holes and one set up for driving screws.
Same, I try to stick to using them separately when I can. Either can technically do the others job, sure, but the impact driver does SOOO much better at driving Send and the drill is easier to control and is way quieter for drilling.
Been using my bosch impact nearly every day for the last 6 years. Never went back to a drill for fasteners. I don't know about dewalt but my bosch has a motor that slows down as you squeeze less on the trigger so I guess you'd call it variable speed. This has been infinitely helpful at giving me precise depth control of all fasteners. Something you really don't get with a drill at all.
Tips: clutch bitholders from ”Essve” keeps the bit rock steady (its locked in). Can’t imagine Wera’s and Festool’s alternatives in the same price range didn’t solve this problem either.
I have a Bosch 12v impact and driver combo set. I use them both all the time with wood working. The impact is great for counter sinking, and I can use the variable trigger to make sure I don't drive thru the wood, it's all in the use of the tool.
For your drill, try the Wera bit adapter. It locks the bit in so won’t fall out after driving a screw.
I love using both, I always make pilot holes, I hate having to hold a screw just to have it move off and not tap in.
I've been using the DeWalt Gyroscopic Driver (DCF680N2) for smaller and delicate screws. It's also fantastic for anything around the house where the drill is just over kill.
I need an impact. I love the quick release and also the shorter nose helps get into places the long nose of the drill cant. Plus when im working on a piece having one rig set up to drill and 1 set up to secure cuts down how much i need to change.
I've finally finished orbiting around TH-cam's uncountable amount of youtubers and come back to binge some Scott Walsh and I have to say let's get the popcorn out because you are awesome!!!
Just the perfect mix of humorous and educational content 🙌 And all that from a shop size that I can get inspiration from to make my own small space work better!! 🎉
I got an M18 fid2 impact driver this year. I've had a quick release M18 drill for 6 years. I definitely find myself going for the impact driver when dealing with screws. I usually keep it on setting 1.
Recently laid a new subfloor, 18mm ply onto old beams, 5mm x 80mm screws. Used setting 2 for speed and grenaded 4 Milwaukee brand bits in an hour. I see why they put multiple in a box now. Got the job done and no broken screws at least.
I love my impact, but if your main reason to use one is the bit holder (and you can't find a good "magnetic" one for your drill) just get a Wera Rapidaptor or similar. My small 12V Bosch "Flexiclick" has a bit holder chuck too, doesn't DeWalt do a version of that, if it has to be yellow and black?
The makita magnetic bitholder locks the bit in the holder enough so it wont fall out or stay in the screw, switching the bits is also easy with a push/pull ring to release the bit. Solves the problem at 1:13
1:09 Diablo DXT1010 (6") and DXT1020 (12") are the answer you're looking for. they will hold ANYTHING that's 1/4" hex, even 1" driver bits without the retention detent, i use them with bosch daredevils instead of 18-24" long auger bits all the time. also, am woodworker. drill is for drilling holes and delicate stuff i need the clutch for, impact is for everything else. i find screws get stripped far less often with an impact than a drill. i live in canuckistan and we use robertsons/square drive a lot. the momentary hits from an impact are far less likely to cam out and chowder up screws than the constant drive of a drill.
I have that exact same DeWalt XR drill/driver combo, and I must admit I don't use the impact driver nearly as often as the drill - it's doesn't give nearly as much control over setting screws, and it's much too easy to bury a screw deep in your workpiece. I much prefer working with the greater finesse of the drill's clutch control. Use a locking bit holder on the drill, and bit changes are just as quick and secure as on the impact. I'd only use the impact for driving a large quantity of screws very fast, e.g. for decking.
Impact wrench has settings of force - when it's exceeded, it stops turning. It should help to not deep so much.
Long time woodworker learning about impact drivers. I never liked that they spin too fast...will look into one that is adjustable. Great vid. 👍
I’ve found that the impact is best for rough carpentry / construction and the drill is superior when finer control is needed, generally when making more precision cabinets or similar furniture. To be fair I’ve never had a chance to try an impact with multi settings, and for the record I have several corded drills, one a 1980’s Black&Decker 😂 but 2 are more recent quite powerful Milwaukee drills, and when drilling other stuff like stone with them, having a keyed chuck is indispensable.
I use my 12v milwaukee driver for most less than construction grade work. It’s light, small and fairly strong, excels at finer tasks, but for a 2.5-3” screw it’s not practical. Impacts are kind of noisy, you don’t get a good feel of how much torque is being applied to a screw, but it’s still the right tool for the bigger stuff.
Great video and thank you for making it!
There are bit holders that you pull out, put the bit in, and push it back in. They don't fall out. I have two. I agree the magnetic ones aren't desirable.
I own both but never really use the impact for any woodworking stuff. It's louder, harder to control and even slower on bigger screws. Only for losening screws in metal, it's great because it's reactionless.
I work with all kinds of materials, and find that impact drivers are excellent for wood. It's a question of becoming familiar with the tools you use. On softer wood, or delicate woodwork I'll switch to a very simple small portable home drill
I’m a fan of your editing and signal ratio. You have a new subscriber!
For a quick change bit that doesn’t leave the bit in the screw, use a wera quick change hex adapter. They work great!
@@waynebrown7065 Not essential, but it helps to give a bit more space, making things a little easier. Cheap kits from a local hardware store will most likely come with a simple adapter like seen in the video.
re: magnetic bit holder that won't drop the bit - have you tried the DeWalt DWA3HDLFT? That one seems to hold the bits way better.
I use the m18 fuel impact and drill and I’ve only broken 1 screw head, and that was right after I got it and was just testing it out. Since then, I have hardly took it out of speed 2 and use trigger discipline to not over or under drive them. I know this video is geared more toward beginners, which is why I think the variable speed trigger and trigger discipline shouldn’t be overlooked when learning how to use impacts.
Same. First tools i ever spent actual money on. Though i got them for fixs around my rv and car.
Why occupy your drill chuck with a screwdriving bit when you can use the DeWalt 12v Screwdriver Model DCF601B which has a nice compact head?
For a fine control I typically finish screws by hand :)
Impact wrench does it for you :) Just set proper force on a tool.
The issue where the bit stays stuck in the screw head, is solvable by using a quick release bit holder. The big brands like DeWalt have their own versions of it, but there is a good chance it is in one of the bit sets.
Why is there no mention of machines that do both? My small and fairly cheap bosch home can drill and be used as impact driver with fine adjustments to the torque. It has two speed settings but depending on how strongly I pull the "trigger", the speed can be varied by a lot manually. Should that not be the best of both worlds for any hobbyist?
My dad had a Craftsman drill from 1962. I wasn't strong enough to lift it until 1972.
I had a B&D drill that I bought in the mid-80's. I had it until about 4 years ago. It was variable speed but very hard to control. I can't believe I waited so long to buy a "modern" drill.
Get the wera bit holder. Works like a charm!
Impact driver is probably my most used tool, just got to have decent trigger control.
Really good, well-communicated video. Pleasure to watch as a complete layperson. Thank you!
The same style bit holder is available for drills.
I just use two drills or a bit holder that lets me switch from drill bit to drive bit easily.
I like two drills as I have a clutch to drive screws...
I like the clutch...
wood worker /Glazier here.
been using impacts for a very long time when i need it . Why should i use a tool with the added weight of the chuck if i do not need it ?
Why is pre-drilling recommend when the impact driver Is going to "hammer" in that screw?
I see Bosch make a bit holder that releases exact like the impact driver does.. stops the bit falling out if using drills.
Hey I'm a Carpenter and Deck Builder and also a Woodworker, and I use impact driver a lot! But only 1 brand I use when it comes to woodworking or Carpentry and That's Makita! It's either my Makita XDT-16 or my Japanese Made Makita TD172, TD-173 18V and TD-002G XGT-40V all of them have 4 Speed with extra features! That's Auto Mode!, Bolt Mode, Tapper Mode #1 and Tapper Mode #2 And I love these features! It's a perfect impact driver for me!
I use a #2 Robertson bit running the screw in with a drill and then tightening the screw by hand with a screwdriver.
The only problem I have with my impact is that if the screw does not have a long blank shoulder it will not pull the wood together so I still have to predrill anyways. However, I did find that doing some demolition wanting to reuse the lumber, the impact was THE tool and took very tight screws our with ease, some even being reusable as well.
Great video! I got a set of DeWalt 24 V drill/impact driver about six months ago. I kept trying to swap the impact driver with friends for… Just about anything. Unfortunately, everybody bought the same set. Thanks to your video, I am rethinking my view on impact drivers.… I especially enjoyed “I’m the life of the party”😂 informative video… Keep it up.
Great video as always dude! I use my impact driver on my furniture pieces all the time and never had a problem either, it’s all personal preference isn’t it like you say mate ☺️🤙🏻
Thanks for watching Sam! I'm definitely not giving up my impact drivers, they're too handy!
@@ScottWalshWoodworking Absolutely not mate, I do not blame you!
great work scott! I think you need about 15 more drills though
Thanks Eric! Imagine having one drill for every single sized drill bit, chucked up and ready to go
I'm using impact in the factory/workshop in almost all scenarios....
We're working with CNC because we're making lots of projects, So the CNC operator gets all the wood ready (Plywood, Hardwood or MDF for doors, Depends on the client idea/request)
Then it goes into the painting room/oven and when we do pre-assembly (Before it goes into the client for installation) we're doing everything with impacts, Drawers, Shelfs, Hangers, Boxings and everything in between...
Also If we touch impact subject I can say from long time experience that Makita impacts very reliable, Working non-stop without issues...
What screws are you buying? I've never broken a screw in my life
Thank you for this video. It answered all of my questions and in just over six minutes, now I have time to watch a couple of ghost and alien videos before I get working!
New subscriber here. I am learning about impact drivers for attaching wood studs to a metal purlin frame in Garage/shop. So I am considering a impact for self drilling screws into hard metal (metal purlins). I have used a drill with a clutch but the Philips pops out and I want to try the impact driver. You have many comments that apply to me.
About the brand, I agree. I am with Ryobi because of the investment in batteries. I would lean toward Milwaukee if I were starting now, but have been using these Ryobi’s for 10 years.
Thanks again for your video!
I like to think of impact tools as the mechanical analog to pulse width modulation (or PWM) in electronic circuits, an alternative and in many ways superior way to get as much power from a power source and to finely control the power going into the "load" as possible, be it a screw going into wood or an LED light source. Often it's preferable to finely controlling a continuous power supply.
The impact is amazing with a hole saw, it just doesn't try to break your wrist in the first place. I think the Impact excels anywhere binding could happen but you still want to power through it. If you don't want to power through it, the drill is nice because of the clutch. always use the right tool for the job!
95% of my drill and driver use in the shop is mounting things to the wall, building storage solutions, or making/taking apart old jigs to reuse parts. I always use both. I have zero interest in changing the drill bit out for the driver bit every time. If you can get a good deal on a Drill and Driver (with battery) combo, it's worth it. Plus, the driver is really helpful for outdoor projects when driving long things into treated lumber. I strip far less screws with the impact because the braaap gives me a heads up that I am getting close, and to be careful.
Oh! the racket. Contractors exterior trimming my house used impact drivers on hundreds of trim screws. Meanwhile my fess tool was quietly trimming the garage. I have found the impact is excellent for self tapping sheet metal screw’s especially in heavy gauges. Don’t forget lug nuts and machine bolts. Makita 9.6 was the first worthwhile cordless drill. Still have one in the shop dedicated with a hex shanked counter sink bit.
I have some nice Diablo brand extensions that have a lock on them I can chuck into my drill and it retains the bit.
Bosch magnetic bit holder with impact sets seems to also have a spring-loaded ball to hold bits better.
I am sure somebody already mentioned this, but Dewalt does make a screwdriver function. Which has the impact end as well as a clutch setting. Milwaukee 12 V system all also has a screwdriver. Both from what I heard are pretty excellent.
You can get drill drivers with a quick change hex chuck. Maybe not a DeWalt, if you have to stick with that for some reason.
0:41 - quick change bit release do exist on drills, the Bosch Flexiclicks have that, which is a very convenient feature. Also, in construction, you might prefer impact drivers because you don't have to really push those into the screw, which is an advantage if you stand on a scaffolding, because if you push the machine in, it also means you push yourself away from the building you are standing on, and you might not want to do that 😉
I use 405nm impact wrench on long wood structure screws, with bit socket adapter, in screw mode :)
Like anything else it just depends. If I’m going to be doing a lot of drilling and sinking fasteners I’ll want one tool to drill and one to drive screws to avoid changing bits over and over and over again. For smaller projects I’ll just pull out the drill and call it good. And I also agree with racking up all these different drills and drivers, for what? I have the M12 drill and drivers and the m18 drill and drivers and that’s plenty to do essentially everything. I’ve even used my M18 impact to take lugs off of cars in a pinch (not that I can recommend that lol)
not only does the impact hammer rotationally, but also axially simultaneously which is what really prevents it from caming out.
I'm a professional remodeler and I can tell you that you can develop your skill with the trigger where you use an impact driver on small delicate screws without overdoing it. I have the impact drivers that you can select three different settings and I sometimes use the lower settings but I usually don't need it even for small screws.
You do have to use some finesse with that trigger though or it will overdo it.
If you want a DeWalt that has the three settings, the 887 model has that feature and you can get it pretty cheap. If you want the best hammer drill from DeWalt, the 999 kit is a great choice and it comes with a 6 amp battery. This is probably more than most hobbyists need but I can easily use it to drill one inch holes through a concrete block wall.
I also have a small non hammer drill that takes the same batteries, it usually lives in my house while the DCD 999 lives in my truck.
Funny story I forgot my impact driver was on the number 1 setting and I changed batteries thinking that the battery was dead when I tried to drive a 3-inch screw. And then after I changed the battery I thought something was wrong with the tool. Then I finally figured out that I had left it on setting 1 which I rarely use. I only had impact drivers with the high setting for so many years I got used to not having that feature. I kind of had to get in the habit of using the different settings and I still usually just leave it on number 3. The reason I always had the single setting models is because the ones with three settings we're not invented yet.
I use a drill with a screwdriver clutch, a dedicated screwdriver with a quick-change bit holder (very good clutch) and an impact driver. These 3 tools meet nearly all drilling/driving needs in the shop and operate on the the 12 volt Dewalt battery platform. In addition, I have Milwaukee M18 hammer drill and M18 impact driver for heavier work (framing, deck, etc.). Thanks.
You're right with the amount. Even on site, can't say I've ever had more than 2 drills, an impact and an SDS all in the same place at once and that has only happened a handful of times
I have seen plenty woodworkers using impact drivers. I also see a lot like 1:08 who cant seem to hold it straight, what is up with that is the more interesting question to me
Well i'm glad i'm not the only other fanboy of Dewalt from watching Mike Holmes on HGTV. :)
I find it funny that I never heard of impact drivers until I started watching build video's from overseas.
sure you never heard ...probably you never been in a garage or remove a car wheel...its stupid to say that.. you never heard the noise of an air impact gun at the mechanic shop?
The only thing I don't like using the impact for is pocket hole screws, I like being able to feel the drill torque my wrist when the screw grabs on to the end of the pocket hole
Get like a Wera Bit Holder, the lock in the bit really tight, so they never get oulled out and stuck on the screw again.
I prefere having like three machines at hand when working, reduces the the amount of changing bits/drills etc
Having one battery platform is a perfectly reasonable thing to want. J Katz Moses did a comparison of routers and found the DeWalt one to be among the best, for one of the few objective-ish data points here. I’m a Ridgid shop, knew a guy in college who swore by them, and yes one compact drill and driver are enough. I did go for the DeWalt corded plunge router though.
Really dewalt for a better router? I was always under the impression the bosch router you can use fixed or plunge base was the best
I use a Milwaukee impact driver, I'm an idiot because I just ram everything into place.
When I have a doubt if it will get tight enough I get bigger screws.
No it doesn't look pretty, no I'm not a real woodworker.
But oh boy, I've never had anything come apart :p
I do have a lot of respect for your work, I wish I've had the patience to create such nice things as you do.
But I don't, so for me it's : just eyeball it with a bit of measuring -> ram it into place - > doesn't fit nice? -> try again.
Mostly this works, but when it doesn't it takes more time then to do it right (like you do) in the first try.
Turns out people are different 😂 and somewhere there's a balance between everyone.
By the way, love your channel.
I use allot of tips you provide, if I don't forget.
I often use an impact driver, but sometimes I'll put a magnetic bit holder in a drill if I need better control of the torque
How did you know that my Dad had a 1973 Black & Decker power drill with a chuck key?? 😮
because all of our dads had them 😅
@@ScottWalshWoodworking Probably true. I even inherited it at some point when I moved out, but now I am happy with my Dewalt Drill & Impact Driver set :)
Both are great, period. Although, as a Carpenter, I find myself using my impact more at work, particularly with metal sheet. In saying that, It also works well for larger Screws on hobby projects (better than a regular drill, I've found)
Like Scott, honestly, go Brushless.
Get a Wera bit holder. It holds the bit in place, they're fantastic
Look at the wera quick release it keeps the bits perfectly