Power Bit vs. Impact Bit vs. Insert Bit...WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?! (Driver Bit Guide For New DIYers!)
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Power Bit Vs. Impact Bit Vs. Insert Bit...WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?! (Driver Bit Guide For New DIYers!)
Many new DIYers overlook a few of the most basic differences between driver bit types. This can be detrimental, because the rise of strong impact drivers has created more confusion surrounding what type of bit to safely use. This short video from The Honest Carpenter will explain the differences between Power Bits, Impact Bits, and Insert Bits, and show how to best use them!
Power Bits are longer silver-colored bits that are meant to chuck directly into keyless chuck power drills.
Insert Bits are shorter (1") silver bits that CAN chuck into standard power drills. BUT, they're really best suited for use with a BIT HOLDER or EXTENSION SOCKET. These devices were created to chuck into drills, and provide an appropriate 1/4" socket for quickly changing between insert bits.
Impact Bits are often black with colorful bands around the neck (or, in some cases these days, gold in color--Makita bits especially. These driver beats are rated for use in impact drivers, which create a substantial amount of torque.
Impact Bits are capable of flexing slightly in their torsional shaft so they don't break during heavy usage.
Impact Bits also have a POWER GROOVE near the bottom of the shank, which lets them chuck easily into the quick-release collet on impact drivers.
However, to confuse the issue, most standard Power Bits now also have this power groove, though I'm not sure why since they shouldn't be used in impact drivers, but most standard drills don't come with fast-change collets.
If you know why this is, shout it out in the comments!
Thanks for watching!
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The quick change groove is a fun bit of engineering, manufacturing, and political history:
Power bits have the same groove as impact bits as a historical artifact. Before power drills were allowed to be sold as "drill/driver" combos, power screw drivers and impact screw drivers entered the market (1960's). Power screw drivers were notoriously bad at holding longer bits, so they adopted the "quick change" feature of the impact driver and scaled it to the now common 1/4 inch hex.
Over time and with advancements in materials, impact drivers were able to be scaled down from 3/4 inch and 1/2 inch to the now common 1/4 inch. This meant a single manufacturing system could produce both bit types by essentially changing only the input material. This was a major economic gain for the manufacturers both in production cost savings and the ability to bring impact drivers to the DYI market at an affordable price. At the same time, several patents, laws, and regulations were changed which now allowed any variable speed drill to be marketed as a drill/driver. The torque limiting chuck was very nearly a simultaneous release.
Since manufacturers had no reason to retool their lines (a very expensive procedure without any demonstrable financial gain), the now mostly superfluous grove on power bits remained. Virtually all impact tools (drivers, wrenches, etc.) clearly and conspicuously state in the operations manual to use exclusively impact rated accessories (bits, sockets, etc.). As a result manufactures of bits are only required to note that a particular accessory is impact rated on the packaging and and provided instructions, not on the accessory itself. Thus the legacy groove is meaningless for identification purposes. The distinguishing differences of colored bands, neck sizing, etc. are all Very recent (primarily post 2000), and were driven by users requesting simplified ID of impact vs. other types of accessories (specifically after throwing out the packaging and "user manual / instructions).
Some "conspiracy theorists" also attempt to suggest that the groove remains on non-impact accessories as a way to tempt people into using them in impact tools so that the bits will break and the manufacturer is able to sell more bits -- a form of "planned obsolescence. However this is not the case. As noted earlier, there are numerous electric screw drivers that use the quick release system, as well as many smaller 1/4 inch drills common in the home/DYI market - especially outside of North America. So again, why would manufacturers change their production lines when doing so would cost money without increasing profits?
This is probably the best, most complete analysis of the power groove that anyone will post. Thanks Michael!! 😁
@@TheHonestCarpenter You're most welcome Ethan. You have a great show and provide a very valuable service. I have learned a great deal from you. So I am glad when my background is able to repay in some small part the wealth of knowledge I have gained.
Please keep up the great work.
This is probably the best comment I've ever come across on TH-cam. Thanks for the knowledge drop on a subject I never would've found otherwise.
I've never had a regular bit break while using an impact driver, and not sure I've ever used an impact bit with any regulatory
This lines up with what I was kind of thinking after the video. I actually have a few bosch drill/drivers that use the quick change power bits as well as a bosch and craftsman impact which of course also use quick change but I had a drill/driver with quick change way before I ever got an impact. Though to note I just buy impact bits because why not? Especially since bosch and makita impact bits are really cheap for some good quality, I also like the craftsman bits but they are not always as reliably cheap but they are still good quality. (im a fan of 3.5" and 6" impact bits and makita is kind of the best game in town for price/quality there)
Nice, you must have been in manufacturing.
THANK YOU!!! I have talked to many sales associates at big box, lumber, and hardware stores. Not one of those people could adequately explain to me about bits. For that matter, most couldn't explain the difference between drills and impact drivers. I am 66, a widow, and I LIKE the independence of having the 'know how' to do home fixes. In this social climate it is a survival skill.
Here's a tip when buying impact bits -- buy different brands to color code by fastener type! For example, buy Milwaukee (red) torx bits, DeWalt (yellow) phillips bits, and Makita (blue) square bits.
Great idea! (though, I prefer to buy when things are on sale...) You can also use different colors of heat shrink and more easily apply your own color coding.
A grand idea I'm borrowing that one thank you @@OneWildTurkey
I always use different brands for all my screwdrivers 😊
Not because of the colour!!! 🌈
It's just the polite handshake every time I reach in my case. The tell me who they are without hesitation 😂😂😂
Your acknowledgement that you don't know why power bits have power grooves and inviting others to answer that question was great.
When someone teaches others about a topic but admits there are some facts they don't know, that increases my confidence in what they DO claim to know and teach.
I realize that above statement may come off as sarcasm to some but it's not and I honestly do think it's a great quality of this video. Thumbs up!
The power groove on standard bits was common in several brands years before impact drivers became common place. It served the same purpose in that there were extensions with spring loaded couplers that would hold them until the coupler was released so the bit would not drop out when you pulled it off the screw head.
Thank you, Purple! I think I entered construction at just the right time to miss this transition tool adaptor 😅
I like these bits because before I ever owned an impact gun I only had a drill driver. I bought a quick release adapter and these bits worked great. I could change bits fast and they remained secure while using them.
@@TheHonestCarpenter also I’ve seen non-impact drivers, at least on Ryobi and Milwaukee lineups
Yeah, you beat me to it, quick release was around long before impacts. Impacts just adopted the setup.
Yep! I have a "Sears Craftsman Professional" quick release drill bit kit that I still use today. I picked it up 25 years ago.
You should teach a class on how to make a TH-cam video. That was quick to the point not a bunch of jibber jabber and probably one of the best video I’ve ever seen.
Many years doing stuff and didn't know most of the information contained in your video. Clear and articulate as usual.
I had this exact problem yesterday when using my impact driver for the first time. I have learned so much from your videos. How to use tools safely, using the right tool for the specific job, and overall tool and accessory vocabulary 😊 Thank you
Impact drivers use an impacting anvil to increase their torque, not a ratcheting mechanism. The addition of the impact force also increases shock factor whel loosening fasteners. Also, the groove came before impact drivers were on the market, it was for tools that offered a quick release chuck.
the internal mechanism is certainly not a ratchet, but i think the point being made is that the screw becomes a defacto ratchet at the screw/wood interface, whereby anytime it binds the impact overcomes the static friction to slide it forward again
@@5naxalotl no,, he just doesnt understand how impact drivers works and said it uses a ratchet mechanism because the clicking noise it makes sounds like the clicking noise that a ratchet makes
unintendedpurposes is right. Quick change bits have been around longer than The “Honest” Carpenter has been alive. It’s the “torsion zone” gimmick that’s new.
Using less metal in each bit ALMOST seems logical, but it doesn’t keep bit tips from breaking. Also, an impact driver isn’t needed to break but tips. In my 29 year career, I’ve broken more bit tips with a drill than I have with an impact… regardless of bit type.
In the early 2000’s the best bits on the market were “cryogenically frozen” Bosch bits with serrations on the top. They were hard… very hard! They nearly never wore out but occasionally one would snap right off in the screw head as it reached final torque. DeWalt made some with serrated tips but not hardened. They gripped well but eventually did wear out.
So, the moral is buy good bits, do good work, and never mind the gimmicks unless they actually deliver. THAT’S honest carpentry.
I think he was alluding to the fact that the action on an impact drill is rotational (like a ratchet) . its not forward like a hammer drill
While I know this difference exists. I daily use the two kinds interchangeably(depending on whichever I find first) in an impact driver and have never had a “power bit” break on me my guess is your more likely to damage the fastener before you break a bit so to all those new comers I wouldn’t worry too much about spending the extra money on impact bits unless you plan to do a really serious amount of impacting and are organized enough to keep a bit long enough to break it.
Same here, and I am an installer by trade. I generally only buy impact bits. But I wouldn't take an extra trip down and back up a ladder to grab an impact bit if I had a non-impact one handy
Ditto. 35 years construction can’t recall ever a broken a bit with an impact driver. Quite a few with a straight drill-driver but then mostly in metal or concrete application or the tip of a slotted driver.
I was going to say roughly the same thing. I have built quite a few hardibacker showers that require a few hundred heavy duty heavy duty screws to install. I used screws that required square drives and I don't recall breaking a bit although the bits would wear to the point that they didn't grab the screw as well as a new one. I only recently became aware of the idea that impact rated bits should be used. They might be better, but you'd have to play close attention to how long bits last before you might notice that the impact rated bits are better.
I’ve only ever sheared impact bits when drilling holes in metal. Now I only use my impact on metal when I have the proper tool but it’s just out of reach
I've mullered plenty of bit tips myself. All of them have been rated for ugga-duggas & usually they have been insert bits, not full length quick release impact bits.
Nice to know. However, I have used regular bits in impact drivers for years and have had almost no failures. Unless you are primarily using big, long screws, impact bits are only marginally useful. If impact bit would prevent me from losing them at the same pace I lose regular bits, THAT would be an awesome feature.
Yeah, I use quality made in Germany, 1 quid each, 'power bits' because impact bits never existed 14 years ago when I got my first impact driver, I saw some makita ones, they were 14 quid for 2! Well, they were shite, my 18v bosch snapped it off like a carrot! The normal power bits last for ages on normal size screws up to no5 x 150. Anything bigger than that an I just use a new one an most of the time you get the job done without breaking the bit.
@@michaelbamber4887 Well, you got ripped off. I bought a set of 18 Milwaukee impact bits for 20 canadian dollars. $14 for 2 is way too much
@tcg1_qc years ago remember. New items out, so hence price. I have some here now that were £6 for 5 bits. They last ok now.
@@michaelbamber4887 oh, for some reason I thought you were talking about today
@tcg1_qc ha, no, until now, I've been to tight to even look at them because the £1 each German ones have 2 ends on um, 50p a go!
10 years as a hobby woodworker and I never knew this (yes, I have snapped a bit or two in my impact driver and just assumed it was workmanship). As always, thank you for making the videos you make. I enjoy your videos and learn something from just about everyone of them (sometimes to my embarrassment lol). Keep up the great and appreciated work!
Thank you, Richard! No shame in that-I’m constantly filling in gaps in my own knowledge. The channel has been a good learning opportunity for me too 🙂
I remember when I first started seeing the impact bits and they had marketing to state it was a torsion section for impacts
If it makes you feel any better I only knew because I read the marketing material from brands because sometimes its hilariously dumb why theirs is "better" than x brand and ended up learning why impact bits look like they do and realizing there was a difference. Some brands actually dive deep into why they are designed the way they are with charts and diagrams showing the forces on bits and how the design works, which is pretty cool and not just PR or bs marketing.
Honestly you're not gonna snap off normal driver bits unless you're overtightening shit or trying to drive something ridiculous that should have been predrilled.
Man, I’m a professional carpenter. And this video was kinda educational for me as well.
i watch a lot of diy vids and I gotta say HC, you bring the best, in the quickest, most easiest to understand way. I've learned more from you alone than 4 years of woodshop and a 2-year stint in a machine shop! Thanks for keeping me safe, knowledgeable, and best of all, improving my diy skills exponentially!
Thank you, Steven! 😄
Taking on home projects as a first time DIY'er and I just learned that I've been using the wrong bits/combos this entire time! Thank you so much for the lesson! So much appreciated!
I have no idea why this was recommended to me, but I learned useful information today that I'd never thought to ask about before.
20 years of hobby use, you certainly solved some mysteries tonight, thank you
The deep round groove is for a ball detent bit holder. As noted by others, these predate 1/4” Drive impact drivers. The shallow skinny groove as seen on 1” insert bits is for a wire detent, as found in bit holders and built into traditional corded drywall screw guns.
This video was so necessary for me to quickly learn the difference as I'm shopping real-time for my mini impact electric screwdriver. Thanks so much. Very informative.
Today I purchased an impact drillbit set for the first time.
Viewing your explanation video on the subject provided me with all I needed to know about impact drillbits.
Thank you for that!
WOW and SUPER WOW. Now I finally know what all those tiny bits are for, and the skinny necked ones. Your explanation of how each one was designed to be used was, as usual, a real game changer for me. I always look forward to your vids. Even when they are about a tool that I will not need, such as a chop saw, just knowing about them is fun for me.
Exactly the info I was looking for. I've been holding off buying an impact driver because it was the bit differences that confused me especially the ones with the notches but as you said they are not designed to be used with impact drivers. OK so now I can get that impact driver and a set of power bits. Thanks for clearing this up!
Thank you again for another direct-to-the-point, clear explanation. I knew there were some differences between bits, but did not clearly understand the differences in the bit kits that I had purchased. Between your presentation and some of the knowledgeable comments below, I feel now have a handle on the differences and even some of the history behind them. Thank you!
There are quick change non-impact adapters for drill/drivers. They were developed before there were impact drivers. That's why they also have those notches.
Thank you! That’s what I surmised. But I just see them so rarely that I wasn’t sure if I’d missed some phase of tool development. 😅 I appreciate that!
Also there are some impact rates models without that skinny part.
The quick change bits have those notches for bit retention in bit holders that have retention clips, they use a release collar to eject the bit so you don’t have to fight the magnetic retention. (You had a picture of one version, that fat collar by the head was a release collar) those notches are not depth guides. Nice try though, they do work for that, but not their designed purpose.
i just got a new DeWalt impact drill and this video has helped me so much. Thank you very much.
Thanks so much for explaining! So glad I saw this video. I just got an impact driver yesterday & thought I had the correct bits - they have the power grooves. As always, appreciate your help on my builders journey!
They aren't power grooves they're quick change collet grooves.
Every time I watch your videos you cover something Ive had questions about. Great video , very informative, thank you.
having bought a dewalt impact driver (and loving it) recently, this was very helpful. Thanks!
This is the information that is oh so important but is rarely ever taught thank you so much for these incredibly informative videos.
I’m glad you showed the difference for diy people, I’m in a trade so I use Makita B-35097 Impact Gold Ultra-Magnetic Torsion Insert Bit Holder it’s like screws are glued to the bit, very strong magnetic field. Love your channel, keep up the great tips. Would like your option if it’s better to get a track saw system or a table saw. Which to purchase 1st. Almost the equivalent price.
Because of you i had the courage to drill my first nail using the drill bit. And because your content id thoroughly explained clearly fir a dummy like me who meber knew 1 but about using a drill. Thank you im glad i found you.
Quick and dirty run downs with all the information needed. I love videos like this!!
I’ve just picked up an impact driver and have been trying to learn about bits so this came at exactly the right time. Big thanks!
Sure thing, Thomas! 😄
I am a first time power tool user. This was very helpful. Thank you very much. I will be coming back to your channel for more inquiries because I'm sure I will happen.
I always enjoy and get great value from the information you share. THANK YOU
THANKS ETHAN …🤗 One thing since I retired I still bought impact drivers and the whole bit set for any projects that I do come across and to help others ( like my kids )
I've been a carpenter for 20yrs and just learned something new today. I always used the correct bit I guess just instinctively, but didn't know this.
I was the exact same way for a long time until I read an article about it somewhere along the way, Daniel. Came as a surprise to me as I’d been using the bits so long. Thanks for watching! 😄
I'm glad this video came up in my feed. I've wondered about these different bits for years, especially the colorful impact-rated bits which I see some TH-cam creators using. I guess I have yet another item to add to my ever-growing purchase-when-I-can-afford list! ;-) Thanks for doing this one!
Always learning new tricks & tips from pros like yourself Ethan. Keep ‘em coming my man.
Thank you, Bill! Will do 😄
Once I finally learned how to use the different settings on my drill I’ve never gone back to using my impact. Great informative video still!
Electric screw drivers also have a collet very similar to impact drivers so the quick change groove is nice for that use case.
Dude, that’s was just straight forward explanation! That’s what I was looking for. Got a new sub! 🤟🏼
Good stuff, Ethan, as always. It’s helpful to truly understand the tools I use.
Great video - I wish the manual that came with my impact driver made it more clear about using impact-rated bits
This has been so helpful. There are So many options for a new DIYer like myself! At least now I know a little more to make my life easier :)
I use quick release adapters on my drills that use the same ball bearing system as my driver. They use the groove too. It’s a good grip and easy to care for. Sometimes some dust builds up in there but a few pulls on the release and a blast of WD40 seems to clear them right up.
in response to your "hope it helps" comment: IMMENSELY. your channel is one of the rare channels that patiently explains things that may seem..... obvious to seasoned craftsman but is not for the rest of us. i absolutely appreciate you.
Thank you, Acronym! That’s exactly what I try to focus on these days. I’m glad it helps! 🙂
Wow! I had no idea what the difference was! Recently, I shattered 15 brand new bits on my Dewalt impact driver. Now I understand why!
I always watch your channel ,I’m a master carpenter and it’s always good to get a different ideas from other woodworkers
That’s awesome, Just Learning! Glad to have other carpenters watching 😄
Hola! 🖐I learned the hard way what the difference was, yes - I broke more than one bit. I wish I could have learned this long ago but good on you for posting this video. I'm sure that many DIYers will benefit from watching this. Take care and have a good one, Adios! 👊
Thank you, finally someone explained this to me after 30 years of using these tools.
Now I know, thanks.
Happy to help, Buick! 😄
I've been using impact drivers since about 2014 and never knew any of this. Thanks!
Thanks I didn't realize the thinner round shafts were for impact bits. Will get a set.
This was very useful. I wish I had seen this years ago, before I bought a bunch of bits.
Always great advice and reviews from a true professional!
Thank you!!!! I needed this I'm new and it was driving me nuts!
Great info. Also, your sound quality is perfect!
Thank you so much. It does help me I didn't know that about these different drill bits. I wondered why some are different and why.
hi, currently looking to buy milwaukee impact driver bit set 48-32-4021 but there are 2 different sets out on the market. one of them has the all black dark bits and the other one has silver bits. is there a difference? is one of them better than the other?
Holy cow Honest Carpenter, you take a very simple topic and make it so entertaining and still filled with a ton of knowledge and information. Well done Sir. Cheers from Canada. 🇨🇦
Thank you, Gerry! 😄
I thought the collar on non impact bits was for the bit holders with the locking collar retainer. Love the channel, with good info for DIYers & professionals alike.
The Honest Carpenter never disappoints. I always learn something. Note, I once put an insert bit into an impact driver and it recessed so far I couldn't get it out. I had to trash the impact driver.
Great info!! Always discusses very pertinent diy facts. Kudos 👏
Thanks for this, Ethan! I never knew you shouldn't use non-impact bits in impact drivers. Looks like I'll have to do a bit of shopping for impact bits now. The adage is true - you learn something new every day. Have a great day! :)
Thanks Andrea! They’re abundant now, with some pretty good deals 😄
Great tutorial, Ethan. I've been using all 3 types of bits for years and still learned something from you today. Again, many thanks.
Great informative video! I really enjoyed the structuring and delivery of information
Thank God you chose to sort this out for me. I appreciate your help.
Your releasing this video came at a perfect time! Yesterday, I had to switch the bits a bit and I wondered why they have features you mentioned in this video. I was going to ask you about making a video on these bits, and here you are! Perfect timing, eh?
That’s some synchronicity! 😆
Thanks Ethan for sharing this important info. Learned something new today. Take care! 😊
Very very helpful and informative! I always have similar confusion, but your video answered! Thanks
All that you do is helpful
Thanks for sharing
A very important point that was missed is that the torsional flex in the shaft of the impact bit will help keep the bit from camming out on the fastener. i.e. You are a lot less likely to strip the head of the fastener with an impact bit. The shaft absorbs the blow so the bit stays in the socket of the fastener. This is the main benefit as far as I am concerned...
and thats what the flex section is designed for - not for absorbing impacts (thats just counter-productive). the video maker really doesnt know what he's talking about. its quite obvious he only works with wood, where these kinda blatant mistakes won't result in catastrophic failures
That's also my understanding. I have broken as many impact bits as any other, but the impact bits don't cam out and strip heads before the screw is seated nearly as often.
@@Ghryst it's actually not counter productive. Making that section thinner gives it a bit of torsional leeway. Given that impact bits tend to be a harder steel, it helps prevent snapping the tip of the bit off.
If it was just a solid hex shank the whole way down the minute you bottomed out going full tilt you'd snap the tips off your drivers constantly.
It's not counter-productive to act as a torque limiting attribute. Same concept at torque sticks for big impact wrenches.
@@ObservationofLimits it is completely counterproductive, you have an IMPACT BIT, that relies on the mechanism of IMPACTING hard, with a shock-absorber that ABSORBS IMPACTS built into it..
you literally couldn't make it any more counterproductive other than by putting a ball bearing swivel in it.
and torque sticks have been totally written off as not accurate at all. if you are using torque sticks in automotive, yr literally gonna kill someone. dont be fucking lazy, use a torque wrench
Idk I’ve found the proper size bit with an impact shouldn’t strip a screw when properly used, impact-rated or not. Push into the piece as you drill, use an impact, and don’t use crap hardware and you shouldn’t have any issues with stripping at all. Having used both thin-shaft bits and regular bits of all variety, I can’t say I’ve noticed even the slightest bit of difference, figured the thin metal was to save on costs and allow more visibility than anything else.
It’s simply for connivence. Locking power-bit shafts for printers, security cameras, and networking racks or any install and tech kind of stuff and not having bits fall when in a lift is why I use them. Often screwing into plastic, threaded aluminum mounting brackets, and brass inserts. I don’t always need the impact bit strength and am usually using various security bits. Very small hex and torx 40 feet in the air with lanyards on all my tools.
Using a Milwaukee installation driver, that is an impact. It sinks self tappers in very thick aluminum extruded beams that are holding windows and automatic doors like in grocery stores.
I read your first book and enjoyed it, very excited to read with my nephew. Nice work!
Aww, thank you mrmile!! That means a lot to me! I hope he enjoys it! I may even taken them to traditional publishers and agents soon-never know what could happen 😄
Thanks I now understand the different types of bits and when & wher3 to us3 them!👍👍🤓
Thank you. These videos you do are so helpful since my husband passed away and i find myself doing things i never had to worry about before and they releave some anxiety of those tasks. God Bless all with His grace, peace and love
Thank you, vintage!! I’m very glad they’re helpful. Wishing you all the best, and work safe! 🙂
Great, all we need are more bits to look for when a small job comes up.
Excellent! I was fuzzy on what could be used where.
Evening, You seem like the correct chap to ask….so just bought the Dewalt drill a set so have the impact and the hammer drill, I’ve ordered the impact screwdriver bits. However I also wanted to order some drill bits for some household DIY so drilling wood,Plastered walls and maybe some outside house brick… looking at dewalt stuff to go with my Tstak but there’s so many variations of dewalt drill bit sets what do I need? A reply with some advice would be amazing
Great overview. Looks like I'll need to get some impact rated bits, as apparently I've not been using the correct ones all this time.
Dude, I love your channel! I learn so much from you. Thank you from a noob DIYer
You’re welcome, Kyle! Thanks for watching 😄
In addition to the great comments I have seen, there are many non-impact bit drivers and electric screwdrivers on the market that use the quick release mechanism. I’ve seen this setup marketed as positive bit retention (magnetic retainers are not perfect, bits still get pulled out)
I first want to say that this is an accurate and informative video. With that said, not something you need to worry about unless you buy a legit grade impact driver. Cheap impacts typically won’t even break garbage bits. Furthermore, I’ve snapped hundreds of bits and they always always always shared right at the tip, making the shaft reliefs on an impact bit a moot point. Even furthermore, shears only typically happen with Phillips or flatheads. It takes an impressive act of violence to snap a star bit. I’ve thrown whatever fits in my drills for decades, and one of my go to drills is an 18 volt holy grail makita (about as nasty as they get.) not to discredit safety here, but a snapping screwdriver bit at 3000 rpm’s or so isn’t exactly catastrophic.
Quite the opposite is true regarding shaft reliefs. Much like torque sticks for lug nuts, those relief shafts help by allowing torsional flex axially, thereby limiting the stress at the tip of the bit
This is great info, although a bit late as I have already snapped 2 tx10 bits with my impact driver. 😁
I'll be sure to order rhe correct replacements though. Thanks for making this info available. I had thought the power bits were made for impact drivers.
Project Farm did a video on those power bits, in the end they’re not as strong as they’re rated for. They all snapped. So for us homeowners it doesn’t really matter what bit we use. Unless it’s something you need crazy strong torque on any of those regular bits in an impact gun are fine.
As a commercial door mechanic, we were using impact drivers years before they became popular with other trades.
Hinge screws on commercial butt hinges used in steel frames use a #3 tip, and they easily pop out, and ruin the hinge screws. Impact drivers will not pop out, if you know what you're doing. The screw will break, if you don't have good finger control, but the head will still be perfect. (Then you get to drill out the piece stuck in the hinge prep.)
Also, using self drilling screws to install closers, exit devices, and weatherstripping, require an impact, or you spend three times as long drilling, tapping, and installing each screw.
I remember being the only trade on commercial jobs that used impact's, and other trades would ask me about them.
Nowadays, they are ubiquitous on jobsites. Once you get good with an impact, a drill is never the same.
That’s awesome, David! I know I got hooked on them when I first tried one around maybe ‘08. 👍
@@TheHonestCarpenter , They may be hard to find now, but the old #3 tips we used were about 2 1/2 inches long, and had three raised lines on each flute of the insert that made it fit snugly into a hinge screw, so the screw didn't fall off when you were putting the screws in.
A beginner dropping screws wears out the guy holding a 150-200 lb door so the middle hinge can be screwed into the metal frame. Then the top is pushed up do the hinge can be tightened, and then the bottom can easily be popped in, and screwed off.
Two good workers can easily swing a door in 30 seconds or less.
Good video, by the way.
(I love those Milwaukee impact tips. Dewalt also makes good ones).
Thanks for the very useful tip.
Regarding the power groove for non-impact bits, there are drivers (non-impact) that have hex chucks like the Bosch 12V‐35 HX
I needed this! Thanks for a clear explanation.
I love this. Glad the algorithm found you
This was a SUPER useful vid for me. Thank you!!
Good info Ethan! I didn’t know the differences between the bits.
Very informative. Thank you!
Thanks for the great educational videos. Then”why” and "how” really help my tool decisions like this ‼️
You’re welcome, D!
3:05 there are locking manual screwdriver handles and also locking bit holders/extensions that can use that groove
Thanks!! I needed this. My dad explained it, sort of.. but you explained it more clearly! 😉
I finally treated myself to an impact driver this year and so glad I did! Thought I was using the correct bits though, what you call "power bits". Haven't broken any so far, obviously not trying hard enough.
They’ll sometimes make it pretty far, Khakoo! But when they break it’s often sudden and possibly dangerous
I love my devalt sleeve bit holder. Great for one handed, hanging on a ladder situations 😅
thanks for being concise. short intro, and then 4 minutes of video for 4 minutes worth of info
My favorite channel! Question here, speaking of Torx bits too, does anybody hate T-20 head deck screw as much as me? Lol. I must have gotten a box of T-20s mixed in with my bin of deck screws and they come back to haunt me in my projects lol.
This was a great video! Even though it’s info I know, I enjoyed how clearly you laid it out for people! Hope me adding a comment helps views!
The detent groove on 1/4" hex shank bits predates impact drivers. Early quick change hand screw drivers used them, but overall winged bits being more common for quick bit hand screw drivers when I was a youngin'.
In Japan (Japanese Industrial Standards) the detent location in a slightly location so there are bit compatibility issues between different JDM tools and western tools. The JIS has a longer tail end on the bottom of the hex shank (longer than our standard 3/8" length) so it might not lock into some collets.
I'm sure someone out there has a patent paper or scan showing when someone first used the chucking detent groove.