Hay ,just thought about it, ( lol it takes me a while to remember, ) so take a magnet 🧲 and rake it through the oil mif the shaving are Farris, or none Farris,will tell the type of shaving’s, something somewhere are clearance seeing themselves hitting something with those shavings something is grinding itself clear, I’m thinking it’s the crankshaft rods or something, let me know ok BigAl California thanks,thanks for import worxzs,😢lol works , I’m not sure,
Your not going to like what you, see , but it might change your ways, and it will show how not the build a engine m and in tbe future, actually do it properly, if no one knows it exactly stock specifications with the build and the torques and the clearances a little tighter on the bearing clearances when you have turbo chargers on them now they put too much pressure on things, and cleve white 77s only should be the bearing inserts, love ya , keep on trying,,if you have the money, lol BigAl California
I didn’t everything by the book on the build it was perfectly sound. Just when the mechanical timing didn’t match the timing set in the ECU is when it all hit the fan. But instead of checking the base timing I kept throwing timing at it from the ECU and it just got worse. Yea I have all the stock specifications from Nissan so everything was right at the stage. Yea clevite is what I’ll be using. I had mahle bearings in it. lol I have just enough money to get it fixed, and fix it right lol
What was it hit? Did the run out of the rotating assembly have clearances on the rods/nuts, or is it valves hitting the pistons, it is a process of elimination till you find the problem that was making it knock they have should never knock no matter what you do with timing timing will not change the actual timing in the engine it just change’s the time the electric ⚡️ hit the cycle, it can not change the actual timing, on te chain and gears, there are newer engines that have electronic variable timing gears this motor don’t have that, it only changes the time it fires , and that’s all, , ( on a LS v8 they have crazy junk lifters that change when they open and some of them stay closed, it’s a smog fuel efficiency thing, but other than that you can’t get knock sounds with electronic ignition, ecm,maybe stuff it can’t change tge placments of the timing chain , if you set it on the marks of stock timing manual timing chain set up it can’t be , just slowly take it apart and take pictures, as you go, we use sculptures putty to put in the combustion chambers when the need was to check clearances in the combustion chambers with the pistons and the valves, it a ton of pulling off and putting the heads by on, the check, and I would use the scale,and keep the balanced pistons, in check with each other, right, I’m looking forward to seeing you turn the engine on camera looking down in the crankshaft area next to the block as you turn witha wrench 🔧 on the vlog, that will be a good look and diagnoses a process of elimination BigAl California thanks love ya
@alkennedy1124 I have to look at it to see if anything was hitting. I haven’t checked that yet. yea the mechanical timing was off. So the engine was pre detonating and that was why I couldn’t keep it from overheating. The forged internals didn’t like all the heat from pre detonating and I just kept looking at other things instead of checking the base timing on the crank pulley. In the ECU I can change the tooth angle and adjust that base timing just by changing the ignition angle and that’s where I messed up cause I never put the timing light on it until it was too late. These motors want to be at the 20 degree mark BTDC and it was at 5 degrees ATDC.
If the timing marks are not perfect op dead center number one, then that is the whole problem, and you can’t change that with ecu electronic timing, can not change to actual timing in the manual time mark’s ,,,it can’t move top dead center mark , in the computer, ever, , so get that out of your thinking , that’s wrong, ok the electronic timing in the electrical can’t make valves pistons impossible if the timing marks were manually placed on the timing chains and the cams rockets at Top Dead Center, #1, get that out of your head, that only since the spark advanced or retarded in the electronic area but it doesn’t change when the valves open and when the valves closed with the timing marks,, ok BigAl California thanks
@alkennedy1124 the mechanical timing is good. The ignition timing was was off. That’s what I am able to change in the ECU. But with the ignition timing firing off at the wrong timing mark through the computer it was causing pre detonation and these motors do not like that at all. It was so far off that it kept causing all that excess heat and then overheating the motor 3 times over 235 degrees. But no the timing marks and all that was at the correct orientation. Just the timing for ignition is what caused this whole mess. My own fault for not checking it.
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Hay ,just thought about it, ( lol it takes me a while to remember, ) so take a magnet 🧲 and rake it through the oil mif the shaving are Farris, or none Farris,will tell the type of shaving’s, something somewhere are clearance seeing themselves hitting something with those shavings something is grinding itself clear, I’m thinking it’s the crankshaft rods or something, let me know ok BigAl California thanks,thanks for import worxzs,😢lol works , I’m not sure,
Your not going to like what you, see , but it might change your ways, and it will show how not the build a engine m and in tbe future, actually do it properly, if no one knows it exactly stock specifications with the build and the torques and the clearances a little tighter on the bearing clearances when you have turbo chargers on them now they put too much pressure on things, and cleve white 77s only should be the bearing inserts, love ya , keep on trying,,if you have the money, lol BigAl California
I didn’t everything by the book on the build it was perfectly sound. Just when the mechanical timing didn’t match the timing set in the ECU is when it all hit the fan. But instead of checking the base timing I kept throwing timing at it from the ECU and it just got worse. Yea I have all the stock specifications from Nissan so everything was right at the stage. Yea clevite is what I’ll be using. I had mahle bearings in it. lol I have just enough money to get it fixed, and fix it right lol
What was it hit? Did the run out of the rotating assembly have clearances on the rods/nuts, or is it valves hitting the pistons, it is a process of elimination till you find the problem that was making it knock they have should never knock no matter what you do with timing timing will not change the actual timing in the engine it just change’s the time the electric ⚡️ hit the cycle, it can not change the actual timing, on te chain and gears, there are newer engines that have electronic variable timing gears this motor don’t have that, it only changes the time it fires , and that’s all, , ( on a LS v8 they have crazy junk lifters that change when they open and some of them stay closed, it’s a smog fuel efficiency thing, but other than that you can’t get knock sounds with electronic ignition, ecm,maybe stuff it can’t change tge placments of the timing chain , if you set it on the marks of stock timing manual timing chain set up it can’t be , just slowly take it apart and take pictures, as you go, we use sculptures putty to put in the combustion chambers when the need was to check clearances in the combustion chambers with the pistons and the valves, it a ton of pulling off and putting the heads by on, the check, and I would use the scale,and keep the balanced pistons, in check with each other, right, I’m looking forward to seeing you turn the engine on camera looking down in the crankshaft area next to the block as you turn witha wrench 🔧 on the vlog, that will be a good look and diagnoses a process of elimination BigAl California thanks love ya
@alkennedy1124 I have to look at it to see if anything was hitting. I haven’t checked that yet. yea the mechanical timing was off. So the engine was pre detonating and that was why I couldn’t keep it from overheating. The forged internals didn’t like all the heat from pre detonating and I just kept looking at other things instead of checking the base timing on the crank pulley. In the ECU I can change the tooth angle and adjust that base timing just by changing the ignition angle and that’s where I messed up cause I never put the timing light on it until it was too late. These motors want to be at the 20 degree mark BTDC and it was at 5 degrees ATDC.
If the timing marks are not perfect op dead center number one, then that is the whole problem, and you can’t change that with ecu electronic timing, can not change to actual timing in the manual time mark’s ,,,it can’t move top dead center mark , in the computer, ever, , so get that out of your thinking , that’s wrong, ok the electronic timing in the electrical can’t make valves pistons impossible if the timing marks were manually placed on the timing chains and the cams rockets at Top Dead Center, #1, get that out of your head, that only since the spark advanced or retarded in the electronic area but it doesn’t change when the valves open and when the valves closed with the timing marks,, ok BigAl California thanks
@alkennedy1124 the mechanical timing is good. The ignition timing was was off. That’s what I am able to change in the ECU. But with the ignition timing firing off at the wrong timing mark through the computer it was causing pre detonation and these motors do not like that at all. It was so far off that it kept causing all that excess heat and then overheating the motor 3 times over 235 degrees. But no the timing marks and all that was at the correct orientation. Just the timing for ignition is what caused this whole mess. My own fault for not checking it.