Good stuff, I have also had success using a claw hammer if there is enough protruding with a bit of wood or ply to protect the wall if inside the house etc.
Hi ,the diamond hole saw seems the quickest way to go from your demo, and if your using the same hole again I guess it leaves a decent hole for a larger plug, ? . Good to see you again, I hope all is well whith you and your's, Atb, Stuart UK.
For the first bolt, the grips should be used as close to 90 degrees to the bolts shank as possible, not straight on. If gripped straight on, there is no key into the bolt plus a very limited lever arm. Still might not work, but a lot better chance due to better grip and greater torsion.
Brilliant! Diamond Drill tube worked perfectly!! I had a set of DD bits in my cupboard.... I had been racking my brain how to remove the wall plug with 2mm of screw end sticking out. Had tried vice grips beofre seeing this video but the end was too short. It was for a shower shelf (old screws rusted & broke off). The holes were in a huge tile that even went under the shower screen. So I could not do anything that would have damaged the tile. Old screws & wall plugs removed and now shelf back in place with stainless screws this time!
Thanks for the tips -again. Those vice grips were running off as you tried to twist the screw out. I was thinking it might be better to put them flush with the wall and grip the screw that way?
It does not matter, if the screw has sheared, you have no chance of removing it, without doing something else first to loosen the screw. (unless your pliers are way better than mine) 👍
I agree, the mole grips will allow you to apply more force when they are used parallel to the wall. This prevents the jaws from twisting in opposite directions as is happening in the video. You have a far better chance of removing a screw that is bound. Where there are times it will not work, it will allow you to apply more force when gripping the screw. Using end on as in the video the force you can apply is reduced substantially as you loose grip when the upper and lower jaws are forced in opposite directions and the jaws slip off.
With that diameter of screw, it is very difficult if not impossible to get the jaws to close tight enough. Plus, there wasn’t enough clearance to get the jaws perpendicular to the screw.
Well I'm only talking about the projecting bolts or screws. The teeth of the pliers or vice grips are oriented in the same general direction of the screw threads. The jaws will just act like a nut. Turning the jaws 90° let's them bite in and attain needed purchase into the thread peaks. Nothing to do with jaw displacement on that brand. If jaws were cross hatched, a coaxial grip might work but leverage is still limited to wrist action. With lock jaws or vice grips parallel to wall you can even slip a pipe over the closed grips and extend leverage.
Is there anything you can attach only to the screw which might be electronic that will heat the screw up and melt the plastic to just pull the screw out? Think like the water heating element things that plug into the wall... But the thing that could be heating up is the screw itself. Nice video! 😎✌️💯
There is a tool to heat up frozen on nuts, it's called an induction heater, it'd work if the screw etc was stuck out, not sure if it'd work where it was recessed though. 1000W Magnetic Heater Heater 220V UK Flameless Heat Tool Car Bolt Remover
Thanks for the video. Try real "Vice-Grip" pliers, other do not work as well. As a 73 year old auto mechanic and electrician I can tell your from first hand experience. Even have had the experience of giving the real thing to people trying to work with lower quality grip pliers and they see the real thing work. Real Vice-Grip pliers have serrated jaws that work. When I pick up Vice-Grip pliers, I find myself looking at how good the serrations are.
I have 2 pairs of locking pliers. The expensive Vice Grip brand have cross hatching on the ends where you were trying to grip the broken screw. The cheap ones don’t have the same grip pattern. There is a huge difference in how well the better ones grip
I have just watched a couple of these, and I think I have some extractors somewhere, so will see if I have one small enough for the job I have. I have been unable to get enough grip with pliers and vice-grip wrench. I was a little surprised I did not see any mention of the other method I have used in the past, which is the use a junior hacksaw with metal-cutting blade to cut a slot in the top of the protruding screw. I suppose a dremel and grinding disc may achieve same? Of course this only works if there is some shank protruding far enough to get the saw onto it.
Another option with the first screw shown which had a decent amount sticking out would be to get the drill chuck onto the screw and put drill in reverse. You do need to really tighten the chuck up but 9 out of ten the screw will back out easily. I've done that before. For all others then diamond cutter the only way to go.
I was trying to replace one of the UK power sockets in my kitchen and unexpectedly as I was unscrewing one of the screws, the screw broke along with the head. For some reason, there was a lot of resistance while unscrewing compared to the other side. The rest of the screw is stuck in the lug of the back box. I got my pliers out (Engineer pz-59) that I use for removing some screws that have been stripped. I tried turning it and while there was some movement, it still kept seizing up and looks really tight. Unfortunately, more of the screw broke off. The screw is still sticking out on both ends, it's just more annoying now to grip and seems to be even tighter than before (barely moves now whereas before I could see it moving if I gave it a wiggle). I stopped after this and I'm now wondering how to deal with this. I've never encountered this before. I replaced all the light switches in my home without issue. I am not sure how the screw managed to break off. I'm guessing the lug on the back box is damaged and has caused the screw to get stuck? It's unfortunately the fixed lug, so I cannot simply just remove the lug. What's the best way to deal with an issue like this without causing damage to the back box?
I had two snapped off screws protruding from brick. I was able to release one of them by using a small pry bar that gripped onto the thread of the screw. Unfortunately, the thread on the other screw had got completely worn away by unsuccessfully using the pliers method. Using a diamond hole saw drill bit looked like a good solution in this video but mine didn't have a hollow part to go over the screw! It would have been too small anyway. I wish I'd tried using the pry bar first before trying anything else as it would have saved time and effort and the cost of a diamond hole saw drill bit.
It depends on the size of the screw, but in this example I used a 6.5mm holesaw (if I remember rightly)- fave.co/3mQ2dzp You need to get a size where the snapped screw can fit down the centre of the core drill bit 👍
I tried the flame method, the plastic plug melts and grips the screw even tighter. The flame made the tile brittle and small chips broke off. The screw is rusted and well buried now. Its still there !!!
Be careful with heat and concrete, as it can explode (not a massive explosion, but enough to propel bits into your eyes etc.). This used to happen on site, if someone was burning bolts out of concrete floors! A little heat applied to the screw itself might help though.
I had the same issue in a house where the screws just snapped having been in the wall/ brickwork for over 60 years. I just paced heat and it meted the pastic raw plug and just came out.
The little m12 ..doing the stuff... need some of them bits... you just making my tool bag heavier... lol excellent vid....sunday viewing to perfection... N x
I've seen coworkers do it 2 other ways as well. One is to cut a slot into the screw and treat it like a set screw. The other was to grind a flat spot on the threads if there's enough of it sticking out and hope it gives enough surface for pliers to grip on. That diamond bit for screws sunken in past the wall is another I shall add to my bag of tricks.
They seem almost identical! I have used a lot of Turbogold and Turbogold XT screws, but never the Turbo II screws. I guess there might be some slight difference, which would be apparent during use. Fortunately, I have enough screws in my garage to last a lifetime 😂
Use Turbogold as they're cheaper. When the Turbogold doesn't work try the TurboII. It is the premium product of the two - it has "serrated cutting teeth and a unique shank which drives even closer to the edge - it allows for higher torque, a better grip and improved driving angles. The turboII range has a TX recess and every pack includes a TX bit."
Take a look at Richon tools- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=20002 I buy most of my diamond tools from there, apart from the JCB diamond tech hole saws 👍
I used a chemical wall plug to "be on the safe side" for a project at home a few years back. Needless to say, some screws broke off when the glue set... The construction still works, but it would be nice to be able to pull them out. Any tips for the chemical wall fastening systems?
Always fill the holes in with mastic. Insects bees and wasps can very easily nest in the holes. And that is a another headache scenario that will need attention.
isnt it a bit early for openiong christmass crakers. a proper vice grip would have easily twisted them out. i have done it a few times with 5x100 mm screws. it needs to be tight , like omg how will i open that tight. it it wount turn by hand then put an adjustable spanner across the vice grips jaws and get leverage that way the diamond holes saws look great for this kind of job i have used a nail bar to pull them out aswell , use a vice grip clampoed on and prise against that
Audio? Major interference... Wireless lav? Or voice over at home? You could drop a gate on the VO track to reduce the buzz/hiss/hum? Rain on the overhead glass?
I have a feeling that we wouldn't have this problem so much if the quality of screws available hadn't dropped. Are they all mass produced Chinese rubbish?
Good stuff, I have also had success using a claw hammer if there is enough protruding with a bit of wood or ply to protect the wall if inside the house etc.
👍
Hi ,the diamond hole saw seems the quickest way to go from your demo, and if your using the same hole again I guess it leaves a decent hole for a larger plug, ? . Good to see you again, I hope all is well whith you and your's, Atb, Stuart UK.
👍
Thanks Stuart 👍
For the first bolt, the grips should be used as close to 90 degrees to the bolts shank as possible, not straight on. If gripped straight on, there is no key into the bolt plus a very limited lever arm. Still might not work, but a lot better chance due to better grip and greater torsion.
Brilliant! Diamond Drill tube worked perfectly!! I had a set of DD bits in my cupboard.... I had been racking my brain how to remove the wall plug with 2mm of screw end sticking out. Had tried vice grips beofre seeing this video but the end was too short. It was for a shower shelf (old screws rusted & broke off). The holes were in a huge tile that even went under the shower screen. So I could not do anything that would have damaged the tile. Old screws & wall plugs removed and now shelf back in place with stainless screws this time!
Thanks for the tips -again.
Those vice grips were running off as you tried to twist the screw out. I was thinking it might be better to put them flush with the wall and grip the screw that way?
They slip off, which ever way you use them.
I really need a new pair 😂
@@ultimatehandyman They look really cheap. I'm really surprised you use such low-quality tools.
Wouldn't the jaw ridges be better oriented at 90 degrees from what is shown?
It does not matter, if the screw has sheared, you have no chance of removing it, without doing something else first to loosen the screw. (unless your pliers are way better than mine) 👍
I agree, the mole grips will allow you to apply more force when they are used parallel to the wall. This prevents the jaws from twisting in opposite directions as is happening in the video. You have a far better chance of removing a screw that is bound. Where there are times it will not work, it will allow you to apply more force when gripping the screw. Using end on as in the video the force you can apply is reduced substantially as you loose grip when the upper and lower jaws are forced in opposite directions and the jaws slip off.
With that diameter of screw, it is very difficult if not impossible to get the jaws to close tight enough. Plus, there wasn’t enough clearance to get the jaws perpendicular to the screw.
Well I'm only talking about the projecting bolts or screws. The teeth of the pliers or vice grips are oriented in the same general direction of the screw threads. The jaws will just act like a nut. Turning the jaws 90° let's them bite in and attain needed purchase into the thread peaks. Nothing to do with jaw displacement on that brand. If jaws were cross hatched, a coaxial grip might work but leverage is still limited to wrist action. With lock jaws or vice grips parallel to wall you can even slip a pipe over the closed grips and extend leverage.
The diamond tube drill bit is an excellent idea but I have to say that I would never ever let you get your hands on a pair of my pliers.
You helped ne out again, you're a legend....
Ultinate YT channel!
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Is there anything you can attach only to the screw which might be electronic that will heat the screw up and melt the plastic to just pull the screw out? Think like the water heating element things that plug into the wall... But the thing that could be heating up is the screw itself.
Nice video! 😎✌️💯
Yes, you can get a tool like that for soldering pipes, I have one in the garage, but have never used it 👍
There is a tool to heat up frozen on nuts, it's called an induction heater, it'd work if the screw etc was stuck out, not sure if it'd work where it was recessed though.
1000W Magnetic Heater Heater 220V UK Flameless Heat Tool Car Bolt Remover
In my experience screws, bolts or nails in concrete can hold on like buggery. Best to cut it off and drill an adjacent hole if possible.
👍
Thanks for the video. Try real "Vice-Grip" pliers, other do not work as well. As a 73 year old auto mechanic and electrician I can tell your from first hand experience. Even have had the experience of giving the real thing to people trying to work with lower quality grip pliers and they see the real thing work. Real Vice-Grip pliers have serrated jaws that work. When I pick up Vice-Grip pliers, I find myself looking at how good the serrations are.
👍
Very thorough and helpful video. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
I have 2 pairs of locking pliers. The expensive Vice Grip brand have cross hatching on the ends where you were trying to grip the broken screw. The cheap ones don’t have the same grip pattern. There is a huge difference in how well the better ones grip
What brand of vice grip exactly is that? "Vice Grip"? Haven't seen that available where I live.. hmm.
Thank you, good tips. Luckily in all my years as a DIYer I'd never encountered this problem until today🙄😲😄✌️💜👍
Flippin brilliant video! Thanks so much!
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
Could you use a heat gun with a concentrator nozzle so melt the wall plug if you don't have a blowtorch?
Sure, but it might take a while 👍
Real handyman advice
"Just hammer it into the wall " they'll never know
😂
What if it broke and it's completely flush with the brick wall with nothing hanging out?
Hi Chaz ,
Great vid .
Those Vampliers ... There you get them with your name printed on...
Thanks
I think they used to offer it as an extra on their website, but don’t see the option now. I got mine in 2014 though! 👍
What if the screw does not have a plug like a deWalt wall dog of concrete fixing?
Thanks
If you can’t remove it using the mole grips/pliers, the diamond coated hole saw will work 👍
I have just watched a couple of these, and I think I have some extractors somewhere, so will see if I have one small enough for the job I have. I have been unable to get enough grip with pliers and vice-grip wrench. I was a little surprised I did not see any mention of the other method I have used in the past, which is the use a junior hacksaw with metal-cutting blade to cut a slot in the top of the protruding screw. I suppose a dremel and grinding disc may achieve same? Of course this only works if there is some shank protruding far enough to get the saw onto it.
👍
What was the name of the last one you used? Diamond (Corded?) Hole Saw? Didn’t catch the second word.
Diamond coated hole saw. Example here- fave.co/3oHrUpW
👍
Another option with the first screw shown which had a decent amount sticking out would be to get the drill chuck onto the screw and put drill in reverse. You do need to really tighten the chuck up but 9 out of ten the screw will back out easily. I've done that before. For all others then diamond cutter the only way to go.
I was trying to replace one of the UK power sockets in my kitchen and unexpectedly as I was unscrewing one of the screws, the screw broke along with the head. For some reason, there was a lot of resistance while unscrewing compared to the other side. The rest of the screw is stuck in the lug of the back box. I got my pliers out (Engineer pz-59) that I use for removing some screws that have been stripped. I tried turning it and while there was some movement, it still kept seizing up and looks really tight. Unfortunately, more of the screw broke off. The screw is still sticking out on both ends, it's just more annoying now to grip and seems to be even tighter than before (barely moves now whereas before I could see it moving if I gave it a wiggle). I stopped after this and I'm now wondering how to deal with this.
I've never encountered this before. I replaced all the light switches in my home without issue. I am not sure how the screw managed to break off. I'm guessing the lug on the back box is damaged and has caused the screw to get stuck? It's unfortunately the fixed lug, so I cannot simply just remove the lug.
What's the best way to deal with an issue like this without causing damage to the back box?
I had two snapped off screws protruding from brick. I was able to release one of them by using a small pry bar that gripped onto the thread of the screw. Unfortunately, the thread on the other screw had got completely worn away by unsuccessfully using the pliers method. Using a diamond hole saw drill bit looked like a good solution in this video but mine didn't have a hollow part to go over the screw! It would have been too small anyway. I wish I'd tried using the pry bar first before trying anything else as it would have saved time and effort and the cost of a diamond hole saw drill bit.
👍
What size/make core drill do you use?
It depends on the size of the screw, but in this example I used a 6.5mm holesaw (if I remember rightly)- fave.co/3mQ2dzp
You need to get a size where the snapped screw can fit down the centre of the core drill bit 👍
Great thanks
I tried the flame method, the plastic plug melts and grips the screw even tighter. The flame made the tile brittle and small chips broke off. The screw is rusted and well buried now. Its still there !!!
What if its justs a screw in the concrete, no plastic plug? Will the heat still help?
Be careful with heat and concrete, as it can explode (not a massive explosion, but enough to propel bits into your eyes etc.). This used to happen on site, if someone was burning bolts out of concrete floors! A little heat applied to the screw itself might help though.
@@ultimatehandyman Ok thanks will do.
Neji Saurus pliers are designed for this job and are useful if enough of the screw is sticking out.
👍
I had the same issue in a house where the screws just snapped having been in the wall/ brickwork for over 60 years. I just paced heat and it meted the pastic raw plug and just came out.
👍
The little m12 ..doing the stuff...
need some of them bits...
you just making my tool bag heavier...
lol
excellent vid....sunday viewing to perfection...
N x
I've seen coworkers do it 2 other ways as well. One is to cut a slot into the screw and treat it like a set screw. The other was to grind a flat spot on the threads if there's enough of it sticking out and hope it gives enough surface for pliers to grip on.
That diamond bit for screws sunken in past the wall is another I shall add to my bag of tricks.
Awesome and working methods!
Glad you think so!
Can i ask a question - Whats the difference between SF Turbogold and Turbogold 2 screws?
Not sure, sorry, Screwfix seem to have Turbogold, then Turbo II screws, but I can’t find the Turbogold 2 screws on their website 🤔
@@ultimatehandyman Yeah, sorry! 😅 Thats what i meant
They seem almost identical!
I have used a lot of Turbogold and Turbogold XT screws, but never the Turbo II screws. I guess there might be some slight difference, which would be apparent during use. Fortunately, I have enough screws in my garage to last a lifetime 😂
Use Turbogold as they're cheaper. When the Turbogold doesn't work try the TurboII. It is the premium product of the two - it has "serrated cutting teeth and a unique shank which drives even closer to the edge - it allows for higher torque, a better grip and improved driving angles. The turboII range has a TX recess and every pack includes a TX bit."
@@ultimatehandyman Hahaha! Tell me about it!
What model is the milwalkee drill please
It's the older M12 chucked version (not sure of the model number)
It's been a great little drill to be fair, I think it's about 8 years old 👍
@@ultimatehandyman super, thank you. Just found one going for £50 on eBay.
Bargain 👍
Can you recommend a hole saw set that will last without costing a fortune as the prices vary loads on internet
Take a look at Richon tools- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=20002
I buy most of my diamond tools from there, apart from the JCB diamond tech hole saws 👍
buy a decent pair of grips that jaws dont move sideways it will work much better great video thanks
Nice hole saws , angle grind the remaining sticking out threaded section of the screw if it's never to be seen again 😉
👍
8:20 you saved my day!
Thank you
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
I used a chemical wall plug to "be on the safe side" for a project at home a few years back.
Needless to say, some screws broke off when the glue set... The construction still works, but it would be nice to be able to pull them out. Any tips for the chemical wall fastening systems?
Always fill the holes in with mastic. Insects bees and wasps can very easily nest in the holes. And that is a another headache scenario that will need attention.
I use the locking pliers to grip the screw and then a hammer to work against the pliers to pull out the screw and plug
👍
isnt it a bit early for openiong christmass crakers. a proper vice grip would have easily twisted them out. i have done it a few times with 5x100 mm screws. it needs to be tight , like omg how will i open that tight. it it wount turn by hand then put an adjustable spanner across the vice grips jaws and get leverage that way
the diamond holes saws look great for this kind of job
i have used a nail bar to pull them out aswell , use a vice grip clampoed on and prise against that
Final long needle nose were Snap-On. 👍
👍
Audio? Major interference... Wireless lav?
Or voice over at home?
You could drop a gate on the VO track to reduce the buzz/hiss/hum?
Rain on the overhead glass?
This was filmed outside. It’s windy and wet most days 👍
My problem is the screw snapped to the wall as wall drilling but wasn't going all the way in and then it snapped
You should be able to remove it using the diamond coated hole saw. Perhaps the screw is too large of a diameter for the hole and plug 👍
Yer, another good method, in some instances, is to heat the stub up until the nylon softens, THEN take the pliers to it.
👍
if screw is thick enough then welding a new hex nut onto the head is poss
👍
Great video thanks 😊 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
TY!!!
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👍👍👍
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For completeness, there is also dynamite!
😂
AwesomE!
Thanks! 👍
😎👍
👍
Your vide grips are clapped out mate.
Yeah, they are not the best. I had three pairs of Teng ones, but sold them along with all my other tools on site in 2021! 😂
👍🏾👍🏾
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You’ve got the proper pliers, why are ya faffing about with the stupid vice grips?
Because neither will work, without doing something else first 😜
I have a feeling that we wouldn't have this problem so much if the quality of screws available hadn't dropped. Are they all mass produced Chinese rubbish?
Even decent quality screws will shear if enough torque is applied 👍
👍👍
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