Backyard Mechanic 02: How To Fix Nissan Patrol DEATH Wobbles!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2015
- So, your Nissan Patrol (GU or GQ) is shaking you around like a milkshake. How do you fix such a thing? Panhard bushes, wheel bearings, steering damper or kingpin bearings; Alex Garner for intentsoffroad.com shows you the four most common causes of the problem while getting frustrated at things and taking plenty of backyard mechanic shortcuts. BUT, the problem IS SOLVED at the end of the video!
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I love the Technical Term ... Pffttht ... for the Damper, this was interesting to watch.
Done what you said, made a huge difference thank you
Tyres sitting in one spot and flat spotting is also an issue
I just finish doing this on my SWB GU. Instead of removing the shims, I decided to instal some thinner ones and worked just fine for me. No more steering vibrations 💪
Thanks 👌
Cheers mate and best regards from freezing Reykjavik, Iceland.
I have this wobble problem with my '03 Patrol and i'm going to try the things you pointed out, I have my fingers crossed that i't i'll do the job.
Thank you for taking the time and making your videos, very helpful.
Warm regards.
H.
Mate I'd get lost in the bush with you any day 👍 Top bloke
Great Video mate, there's one other small one that ive found to be an issue in some patrols, the actual bolt that holds the front panhard in place can over time become warn and egg shaped simply pulling one off a wrecker and replacing the bolt will fix alof of the early gq's wobble issues. i spent well into the thousands working that out haha
great work and info Alex ( we all have done the old knuckle trick)
Put new wheel bearings in but then came the death wobbles when I drove 80km/h!!! Will definitely try that. Also feel like running away from work just to be with my truck. :(. Thanks mate, great info... cheers.
Oh my god I wish I watched this video before I spent all this money , great video mate!
Hi Mate, thanks for the video! First I was having terrible wobbles, at 60 km/h. I did the test for wheel bearings(they were crap) and got them changed but the wobbles were still there. Then I checked and changed the King pin bearings of the same wheel, a huge improvement... the wobbles were gone!!! Until I tested at 80 km/h freaking wobbles were back... My mechanic flipped the Panhards bushes and it worked for while... no wobbles at all!!! I've just bought the panhard bushes to replace them... thanks a lot for the guide it saved me from expending extra bucks!
thanks mate mine gu99 has just started the wobbles at 80klm ive checked everything u checked and now i have too undo bolts and take out the shims thank u mate looing forward too more
I took mine out as had same problem. It didn't stop it completely but it improved it. So at least i new it was the cause. Ended up putting new ones in now it is a perfect ride. Good on you for putting this helpful video up.
Steven Wilson I'm a bit upset as the vehicle has only done about 80,000k's since I did an entire swivel hub rebuild with all new bearings. New bearings is certainly the best way to go!
@@Alex.Gfor your none english viewers, confirm this for me please.
You removed the shims, then after 80k kms the problem came back so you replaced the kingpin bearings?
Is it for both sides all just drivers side having terrible Womble at 80 and up
Awesome vid man. Really helpful thanks so much
haha legend ! , i took the shims out on mine and have never sworn so much or been so angry in all my life trying to get that bottom one back in. Ive only done one side and still have the death wobble, maybe i should do the other
Mike Vaneck haha! Mate if i'm honest I swore and threw a few spanners myself. Death wobbles can be a real prick to trace hey?
Yeah I was racking my brain for ages , turned out to be flippen pan hard bushes after all !
Love the vid, my death wabbles were horrendous and getting rid of the shims sorted it right out. My question is: why tho? I can’t wrap my head around how this would make a difference...
I guess the loose kingpin bearings let the wheel wobble, making those tighter and there`s no room for movement. I have an all stock susp./tire size GR, and had mild steering wheel wobble even from 70 km/h. Only in straight line driving. If the car was turning that put a pressure on the hub, and the shaking was gone, even at 110km/h, but had to slow down before the bend ends, or it started to shake again.
The larger, heavier wheels must amplify the problem significantly, as well as slightly worn panhard rod bushes and wheel bearings too. I guess even the steering rack can be a bit loose and all the play in these components adds together, and it wants to rip the wheel out of your hands, but I think the whole wheel wobble thing is starting with the king pin bearings, and well below what we can even notice. But once it started it`ll get worse and worse gradually.
Thanks heaps for the info mate, This worked for my ZD 30 after removing the shims it transformed the car (wobble gone) Well done
Awesome to know! It's such a relief when that wobble stops hey!
Do you just remove the chims and take it for a test drive to make sure it has improved the wobble? Or do you remove them only when you know it's the kingpin, and how do you even know it's that? It seems like a temporary solution and should be fixed properly if that's the problem in my opinion. Would it be fixed by replacing the kingpin-bearings anyway, or do you have to do something else?
i did the shim removal from my Y60 and the wobble stoped , so i have orders a full new kit for the front at 33 years old i guse its time to give the front end a gd going over ,many tnx for your vidio
this is still one of the scariest things that has happened to me going down a busy motorway in perth, thought the steering wheel was gonna jump out the window and then the engine sucked back bad from the EGR. nearly went off the road twice in one trip. sold the C of a thing shortly after with problems sorted. never again.
He has done the impossible, he fixed a Nissan patrol your a legend
I did the king pin bearing service all by myself. Easy to get them out, but PITA to squeeze them back in, especially the bottom one. But, apparently i overgreased them, as the some grease started oozing out of the grease scraper seals some time later.
+dom ari yeah, I had to bend the disc brake guard a little to get the bottom ones back in. Some colourful language was used!
for the bottom kingpin bolts i pushed a screwdriver in to wedge the guard enough to get the spanner in there
thanks man👍
i get light wobbles at around 80km with my gu ute. but slower or faster its fine. suspension was redone. new greace on those bearings would help too
I had the bad wobble at around 80 kph even with new balanced tyres and a wheel alignment. Turned out to be loose front wheel bearings so I tightened them up using my elcheapo ebay tool and all good now..
hi mate my gu nisson wobbles at between 80-100 so looks like ill be doing the same thnks for the vidio i see u took the tyre off do top do u put it back on too do bottom thnks mike
Do you think you could do a video on a full rebuild just in case any of these "quick fixes" don't work? I know it's a pain but it would be the next step after all else fails! I also have no idea on how to check the pre-load so that would be useful too
When she comes due to needing it yeah for sure! It's a bloody big job, will take me a couple of days with filming.
@@Alex.G that fills me with confidence! Haha yes it would be a first for me too but might be needed shortly
Dude I have to say I'm learning alot from you...
From a guy here in the UK I've just bought a 2004 Di SVE 3.0 auto patrol... Luv the fecker I do..
I do have the wobble at around 60-70mph and I have checked suspension and steering etc so I'm planning to remove the shimmies from the kingpin.
I'm wandering if it did work for you or did the wobble return after a while??
Cheers man 👍
ahhh me knuckle ! hahaha everytime thats me !
Did you remove the shims on the driver's side? Thanks
Don't forget to check engine and gearbox mounts. They use the same mounts as the Nissan sedans of the era and are not what you'd call heavy duty.
So I’ve got wobbled after sharp bumps or corrugated road. Steering dampener buggered ? Un did it all and feels good? I’m lost
I have the woble too. I would do that trick with the tire off!
Not dodgy at all, I grinded a few mm off my ktm200 frame to get the barrel off the engine easier when doing rebuilds :P
thanks
You're right +Spectre, the key is to do the kingpin shims last so that you know it's not something else causing the problem. The ideal solution is to get the thinner shims from Nissan and use them to re-set the preload to specification, or replace the bearings entirely. Unfortunately, both options involve removing a number of arms and seals, and the seals are unlikely to go back on too well. Eventually the bearings will loosen again and then you have to replace them, but removing the shims as I did will get you out of trouble for quite a while.
I got all the way down to the king pins before the damn thing stopped wobbling. I would suggest checking the king pubs first, at least the top ones, make sure the grease is clean, given that they are lubricated by centrifugal force, any rust or badness in there will be obvious.
By first I mean check the other things mentioned first, then move right on. Over 6 months it took me.
Thanks for your effort i have a nissan 4.8 2006 working on the harness i find it difficult because I couldn’t distinguish between the sensors, oil temperature sensor, water sensor,....etc. is it possible to name engine parts in some of your videos.
My #1 check would be tires, for out-of-round, belt separation and wheel balance. #2 I would check tie rod ends, steering box and idler arm(if it has one).
Does the Patrol have a 2 inch lift? But what size are those tyres? Funny and informative vid , good job!
The panhard lock nut is not done up as well
Do u need to remove both top and bottom shims from assembly or can u just remove the top shim ?
You always have to adjust those things exactly the same or I believe it will throw things out of whack
Thanks for the vid, i have the 98 RD28 which i've slowly been bringing back to life but i couldn't for the fucking life of me get rid of these death wobbles. I will be happy to give this a go! thanks again.
+Jarryd Foster yeah they are a bitch mate! Pay close attention to those panhard rod bushes, and if they are flogged out, don't waste your money on anything but genuine. Everyone I know who's done them with non genuine bushes (me included) has had them flog out in no time.
I have only just recently replaced mine with a new genuine set of nissans, not these polyurethane ones. I will be changing the steering damper soon too as its needed off road.
Intents Offroad I have only just recently replaced mine with a new genuine set of nissans, not these polyurethane ones. I will be changing the steering damper soon too as its needed off road.
3:45 BEST !!!!!!! hahahahha
I did all the steps and everything was good but I noticed i had no shims in the front left and right but the wobble is still there should I order some shims and put them back in ??
If you put shims in it will get worse. Once your vehicle has reached the stage where there's no shims in it, you have to rebuild the swivel hubs and replace both the kingpin bearings and their races. When putting it back together, then some new shims should go in to bring it back to factory spec.
thanks mate grate shit real bloke
+Corey Mackey cheers lad!
I know the feeling , took me ages to figure out what it was , worst thing was no one at a suspension joint in my area had a clue .just trial and error
Just taking the king pin shims out probably not the best solution. Better to measure the thinness of the shims in there and put a thinner ones in there especially as the shim on the top of yours looked quite a thick one. Sometimes you are lucky and find 2 shims. If you have time proper way to set is measure resistance without scrapers and cv's.Panhard rod bush's defiantly best place to start as often the most likely cause, and if you are doing a lot of hard off-roading can wear out pretty fast.
+Ed Belt Yeah I was going to set the preload the correct way but as you said it involves a fair bit of work stripping them down to accurately measure the preload. Then there's having to order thinner shims to get it correct...what a pain! Yeah panhard bushes is generally the issue. Genuine Nissan rubber bushes seem to last much longer than other types too.
What could cause camber issues on the patrol? Could a worn kingpin bearing do that? Thanks
On a patrol yes, the kingpins control the camber. Most patrols have a bit of a camber problem, mine included. Unfortunately they're like that from factory and the way to fix it is with an aftermarket offset kingpin bearing set. I haven't bothered with that, my camber issues aren't bad enough to warrant it
@@Alex.G any idea where I can get a full set for y60? Thanks for the info
Boas tenho que tirar os 4?
Maybe a stupid question, but if it's as easy as removing the shims, to ease the wheel wobble, why are the shims there in the first place? Cheers.
Nope not stupid 🙂 they are there to set the bearing preload. As the bearings wear and the preload goes off spec which can create this wobble. You're supposed to buy thinner shims and keep shimming it down until the preload is correct again, but like I said you have to remove steering arms and scraper seals and all. Then once you remove that scraper seal it can be so old that it doesn't go back right and you have to do a full swivel hub rebuild anyway 🙄 that's the long answer behind it haha
Intents Offroad awesome mate, cheers. makes sense, thanks for the explanation. 👍🏻
aah me knuckle! oh how I laughed
+Jamie Roberts Over the years I must have practically been skinned alive :p
Was looking for this comment!
I’m new to the patrol life but when you say king pin shims aren’t they supposed to be there why didn’t you put new ones in. ?
They are indeed supposed to be there. What happens is as the kingpin bearings wear you measure the preload with a special gauge, purchase a range of different thickness shims, and play around with them until you get it back in spec. to do this all the steering components need to be disconnected and the scraper seal removed. In most cases the scraper seal is no good after that and to replace it you need to do a whole swivel hub rebuild anyway. So, in my method I just pull the shims out, and keep them, and when the bearings go out of spec again I do a swivel hub rebuild, replace the bearings (and the original shims as this will bring it all back to factory spec) and restart the kingpin life cycle!
Intents thankyou for this information you learn new stuff everyday and this will help me cheers
Just tried replacing panhard bushes and problem still persists, and bearings are ok and near new steering dampener was already installed...so now going to try your fix Alex, fingers crossed.
How did u go
@@grahambate3384 Just finished removing shims, was very easy, haven't driven vehicle yet as I'm still working on it.
@@grahambate3384 My GU would start to wobble from about 75KPH up to about 85KPH, just went for a short test run up to 90KPH and no even the slightest hint of a wobble..FIXED!!
Now Im getting a dull hum noise, think the bearing may have to much load on it now, going to put shims back in and see if hum noise goes away.
@@bigfella6629 how did you get on, I need to find someone who can explain how to test the pre-load before i'm comfortable with taking the shims out! A lot of trial and error it seems
To be clear what you are all talking about is not the "Death Wobble" its just steering vibration. Death wobble means the car is undrivable, when that vibration increases to the point where the only option is hard breaking. Its terrifying when it happens.
Death wobble to me is when the real axle bushings fail and rear axle movement steers the vehicle like u r drunk.
I have a problem it's like all cars shaking when I drive in 4x4 its starts to shake from 50km/h till max I can drive. When I drive only on rear-wheel-drive it is not shaking well it does but that is a different one that I am not worried about at the moment. Could this be the same problem that is shown in the video???
If it's only in 4wd I would be looking at the front propshaft to see if it's bent, out of balance or out of phase
I just have checked and everything looks in the place and no damage or bent
Any other suggestions
@@martynaszelvys9236 nope, that's all I can think of
@@Alex.G
Ok thank you.
I will update if i found out something else
Aint nobody have time for that!!!! Bhahahha
Cool I know what I'm doing tomorrow.....I had the wobbles 3 times on the way into the city (Melbourne) on the Monash freeway...wife and daughter in the car, scared the crap out of the wife and daughter and had to sit on 80K's for 80% of the trip into the city...not fun.
Find it hard to believe you were even able to hit 80k’s on the Monash car park….😂
i started with the shims then buschs next up rotors and pads checking the bearing while im there, then shocks and damper are next just because it's that time
What is the way to go if there are no shims?
Just a new owner to an old patrol
If there's no shims it's a swivel hub rebuild. This involves fitting new bearings and races, then using a resistance scale to test the resistance is within factory specifications. If the resistance is too high, shims need to be added. If it's too low (which is what causes the wobbles) then shims need to be removed. The shims come in varying thicknesses and are a Nissan genuine part.
@@Alex.G thanks for the reply!
Did you just take one shim out from top and one shim from bottom?
yeah that's correct
@@Alex.G do you do both or just the or just the one side
When it comes to wheels/bearings/brakes I always do both sides
After owning a gu for a few years I can say in order of what I'd check for death wobles:
Wheel bearing preload
Uneven tyre wear, mostly from heal and toe wear, especially muddies, rotate tyres then go for drive and check for wobble. Also make sure you don't have a lot of built up mud on the rim.
Then I'd check pan hard rod bush, body mount side
If all those are good then it's a kingpin bearing preload issue.
Another thing is the panhard rod bushes seem to go bad quickly, every 40- 50k km for me anyway with 2 inch lift. Even if they are only barely starting to go bad you will start to get woble. This video is very helpful, I wish I knew all of this when i first got the gu.
Austal ships! hahaha Spent a bit of time there myself
+Pete M good times! I was there 07-09 as an electrical TA
if you remove the shims, which are 0.5 mm each, you are going to over load the bearing and make the whole assembly weaker.
You have to measure the preload and make sure they are loss
+NissanAltima2005 very true, it's not ideal. I was going to do that, but then I realised I'd need to remove all the scraper seals and stuff from the back of the hub to get a correct measurement. I could see them falling apart if removed, and to replace them means a full rebuild anyway.
Coooooooked
Aint no body got time for dat lmao
Best part 3:00
Proven Overland Haha! Not the most exciting of video topics so I try and pop a bit of humour in there!
My y61 2007 patrol have a same problem, all solved after two wheel bearings, up and down axle bearings all bushings front side and steering damper changed.. parts all costed me qr970 labour cost qr400.. pm me for more details
I’m having this issue now mine hits 70-80
It's a pain in the arse hey!
Me too mine started yesterday....
What year model is your patrol
That one was a 1999 GU 2.8 diesel
Work at Pirtek or just picked up a shirt 😏
Yeah picked it up at the op shop and it was my shed shirt for yeeeaaaars
"Aint no bady ghat taim fo DAT"!!! Ahhhhh LMAO !!!!! Only the Aussies balls enough to be this politically incorrect.Cheers from Hawaii !!!!