"Brogues" refers to the lacing system and tongue being a single piece of leather with the vamps (derby style).The "broguing" design elements aren't necessarily unique to them however, and not the primary distinction when speaking about shoe construction in a general sense.
oxfords: have no holes because they were worn by the aristocratie. never by (high) servants. a brogued shoe: has the holes in it. Because the leather dries faster after getting wet. Because in England there is a lot of rain, they are assosiated whith farmers/servants who needed this decoration for practical reasons, because they work outside a lot.
The brogue was originally a farmer’s shoe when the holes were there to drain water out of it (the pattern wasn’t as fine then). Later, during the 1920s and 30s, it became popular in other classes through appearances on the golf course or the stage. It’s true though that the most refined shoes will not have any brogueing.
Oxford, derby, blucher and monk strap describe the vamp of the shoe or the throat opening around the tongue. Wing tip, cap toe, or full cut describe the toe treatment or how the toe leather is cut (the uppers). Brogue or broguing describes the perforations cut into the toe design ànd or uppers. Hence you may have any combination of these three catogories, just don't be confused as to how these features work. To be sure, the most formal shoe is a black, full cut oxford; it's very clean. The least formal would be a brown suede, wingtip, brogue, derby. And now that you have it, off you go!
Farmboy1544 These days, shoe colour is by far the most important factor. Any classic shoe in black is going to be business appropriate in most working environments. With brown you need to pay a lot more attention to the other elements of the shoe - a sliding scale based on how light or dark the brown is. So a black longwing that isn’t excessively heavy in its styling is more business appropriate than a tan cap toe Oxford. A mid brown like mahogany is probably OK as a business shoe in a plain Oxford or with minimal broguing. Tan is never really business appropriate but it depends on your workplace. Suede is always casual.
Farmboy1544 very nicely said, it's actually more informative than the video. Just a side note, a black full cut oxford wouldn't be the most formal but it would, imo, be the most elegant. The most formal would be a black patent leather pump
"Brogue" is also the Irish word for "shoe"; maybe "Oxfords not Brogues" refers to the wealthy and influential aristocrate founders of Kingsman who lost lost thier heirs during WW1. Perhaps they proposed the concept of Kingsman to thier Irish counterparts who rejected the notion of also participating in the project; so maybe "Oxfords not Brogues" refers to the British Oxford-educated sole founders...or maybe I'm thinking too much into it lol.
Love Kingsmen I believe he was trying to steer Eggsy in the the more formal and classic direction in the movie. Stuff like no brown within town. You can also wear oxfords or better whole cut oxfords on many formal ocations. Just the basic and classic shoes. Broghes were perferated to wear in muddy water and other outdoor work actives and thus less formal. I like long wing broghes myself. Plus Napoleon from The Man From Uncle wears broghes with a suit and that's good enough for me.
It's all nonsense. Just a movie line distinction. The re are dress oxfords and work oxford, dress brogues and work brogues. Today there is no class distinction between the two.
I loved the movie, but it's sad that Galahad said it wrong; he said that an oxford is any formal shoe with an open lacing system :( A derbie has open lacing and an oxford has closed.
Sir, it came to my attention in the middle of this video that your tie knot is much too small for your very wide collar. I'd recommend you fix that, perhaps going for a full Windsor knot
Oxfords Without broguing are more formal than ones with broguing, while a Derby is usually less formal than an oxford, also the more broguing the less formal the shoe.
From a practical view, the smooth no hole shoe would become scruffy and wrinkled if used too much, so would use for special occasions. The "holed" shoe more practical for daily use. Any lack of shine is less noticeable.
I think from my understanding of the oxfords not brogues scene is that what is known as an 'Brogue' is actually an oxford shoe with additional broguing so the shoe is not a brogue but an oxford with broguing. For example the first shoe is an oxford then he moves on to the second shoe and refers to the broguing pattern but doesn't differentiate is as a different kind of shoe, therefore it is an oxford with brogue patterning not a brogue an gives birth to the saying oxfords not brogues.
Harry Hart really seems to not know about shoes, in addition to creating a false dichotomy between Oxfords and brogues, he says "An Oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing." That is wrong, because what makes an Oxford shoe an Oxford shoe is that it has a CLOSED lacing system.
Great segment very informative...close up every shoe, every point. closer visual rather than holding up next to your head. Push it out towards the camera lens. Hold it pause a couple seconds so it registers with the viewer. Gagged me on the tie. How about paIsley silk veloure tie with a double loop English knot to help make your points stick! Otherwise very nice presentation. Thankyou!
Tha black shoe on your left hand in 0:07 is actually a derby. btw nice video. The important difference is: derby vs oxford, and brogue vs no brogue. It can be a derby brogue, or a derby no brogue, as well as an oxford brogue, or and oxford no brogue ;)
With all due respect, sir, that tie is a crime against humanity. And for heaven's sake, learn how to tie a full Windsor. Then you'll be ready for the red carpet.
Gents and Kavalier: lots of the big menswear blogs and TH-camrs say that oxfords are more formal than derbys, even going as far as to say that derbys shouldn't really be worn with anything more formal than a casual suit. Is this really the case, or are they promoting antiquated and widely forgotten rules? I see plenty of sharp dressed professional men in suits wearing derbys and oxfords and derbys with broguing all the time. Also, how do brogue (wingtip) oxfords compare to plain derbys. Let's say that a groom at a outdoor wedding was choosing between a pair of black wingtip oxfords and black plain derbys to wear with a charcoal grey suit. Both have slim leather soles and are in great shape. Which option is better/more formal? Any thoughts from the crowd would be appreciated.
The term means to be more formal; and reserved rather than flashy, loud and flamboyant. In the movie the spies were to blend in and not stand out. -Stay classy gents. 😎
I am ordering a bespoke captoe oxford. I am confused weather to have quarter brogue or plain.. I mainly want to wear it for formal occasions/ office/ client meetings. Please advise.
That is true to SOME extent. You gotta be lucky, honestly. High-end-manufacturers use a wide variety of last shapes- they even differ within one company. The Sanford of Allen Edmonds is very, very wide, while they also sell that awfully slim full brogue derby (i own it, forgot its name though). Such dir einen Schuh-Mücke. Die werden ihr Premium-Sortiment nicht los, ich habe dort einen MacNeil von AE für 90€ abgestaubt, der Schuh ist aus Shell Cordovan und kostet eigentlich knappe 700€. Außerdem müssen Rahmengenähte Schuhe einfach eingelaufen und gut gepflegt werden- Die Ausballung aus Kork passt sich an deinen Fuß an. Einige Hersteler im 150-200€-Bereich bieten ein Wechselfußbett an, sprich du kannst orthopädische Einlagen einlegen. ;)
Really like your videos and how you value different subscription services ! Have you heard of Mtailor? Just saw it's ad on tv and wondered if it's worth it :) hope to see you review it soon!
He probably should have said something like smooth leather Oxfords not brogues. Shoes intended to dress more formally. Kingsman don’t dress informally. Or if he wanted to discern between formal and less formal, the movie phrase maybe should have been “Oxfords not Derby’s.” And then display these two styles side-by-side when he selected the Oxford shoes for Eggsy to try. Then he could have said “and never broguing.” That way less informed people won’t be confused to know broguing are also on Oxfords. And of course on Derby’s. The movie caused unnecessary confusion.
You touched on the fact that brogues could be oxfords, but then kind of lost it and went back to talking about the "distinction." This debate is like short sleeve shirts vs. button-ups. You can have both, or neither, or one, or the other, and so pitting them against each other is simply incorrect. Also -- some brogue derbies would have helped draw the distinction.
Kavalier, can you make a video on quality open/wide neck t-shirts? They are so hard to find, and if you do they're expensive or not good quality! Thanks
Do you use a mic or no? Wondering wear the static is coming from. What kind of good mic would you suggest btw? Thanks. I have the same tie from the gentleman's box btw 👍🏻
+Escobar Style1 I have a Rode boom mic but I am almost certain I'm getting static from both my HVAC unit in my basement and the large metal piping down there. Building new studio which will sound just great!
The Kavalier oh gotcha!! Spell check btw: where and NOT "wear" ... I hate when I do stuff like this. Smh. But good to know with the mic. New studio huh!? Can't wait my friend 👍🏻👍🏻. Love your videos my friend. Very very informative.
Many gentlemen prefer the smooth, minimalistic Oxfords to Brogues which are seen as perhaps too stern. Wearing Brogues with a formal suit is frowned upon as they are country shoes unfit for 'stylish city gents' hence the phrase 'Oxfords, not Brogues' in the movie.
Jordan Blackburn Although in this day and age the most common dress shoe is a horrible, boxy, tram line derby made out of crap leather so a nice pair of brogues with Oxford lacing is a perfectly acceptable business shoe unless you’re in an environment where everyone pays close attention to such things. When would you wear a black brogue if not with a business suit?
Well, I don't wear either. I prefer single monk strap shoes. It's my signature look. I mean, I don't want to be the 100th guy with oxfords. You gotta be different to stand out.
Your presentation is misdirected. Take the camera off of you and put it on the shoes. You are talking about the shoes, not about you. Put the shoes down on a white table. Talk about each shoe using a well manicured finger to point at each difference you are discussing. Allow your finger to linger over the spot you want your audience to see what you are talking about. Otherwise, this is just a video about how good you think you look and how much you think you know.
Oxford = Close lacing system
Brogues = Has perforated designs
This is proof that Caesar was a time traveler.
yes the movie got that wrong
"Brogues" refers to the lacing system and tongue being a single piece of leather with the vamps (derby style).The "broguing" design elements aren't necessarily unique to them however, and not the primary distinction when speaking about shoe construction in a general sense.
@@ShadowPoet Brogue or broguing refers to the perforated design, nothing to do with the vamp.
oxfords: have no holes because they were worn by the aristocratie. never by (high) servants.
a brogued shoe: has the holes in it. Because the leather dries faster after getting wet. Because in England there is a lot of rain, they are assosiated whith farmers/servants who needed this decoration for practical reasons, because they work outside a lot.
i read that it was made for rich people when they went out hunting
Brogues are irish not English
The brogue was originally a farmer’s shoe when the holes were there to drain water out of it (the pattern wasn’t as fine then). Later, during the 1920s and 30s, it became popular in other classes through appearances on the golf course or the stage. It’s true though that the most refined shoes will not have any brogueing.
Style to steal? Roxy's English boots and blazers. Merlin's military style overcoat. The sequel? Statesmen sportcoat and cowboy hats.
+Moniq Rupley dying to see the new one!
Tip: Avoid pockets on shirts.
Avoid shirts.
@@jonothandoeser avoid skin
Oxford, derby, blucher and monk strap describe the vamp of the shoe or the throat opening around the tongue. Wing tip, cap toe, or full cut describe the toe treatment or how the toe leather is cut (the uppers). Brogue or broguing describes the perforations cut into the toe design ànd or uppers. Hence you may have any combination of these three catogories, just don't be confused as to how these features work. To be sure, the most formal shoe is a black, full cut oxford; it's very clean. The least formal would be a brown suede, wingtip, brogue, derby. And now that you have it, off you go!
Farmboy1544 These days, shoe colour is by far the most important factor. Any classic shoe in black is going to be business appropriate in most working environments. With brown you need to pay a lot more attention to the other elements of the shoe - a sliding scale based on how light or dark the brown is.
So a black longwing that isn’t excessively heavy in its styling is more business appropriate than a tan cap toe Oxford.
A mid brown like mahogany is probably OK as a business shoe in a plain Oxford or with minimal broguing. Tan is never really business appropriate but it depends on your workplace. Suede is always casual.
Farmboy1544 very nicely said, it's actually more informative than the video. Just a side note, a black full cut oxford wouldn't be the most formal but it would, imo, be the most elegant. The most formal would be a black patent leather pump
Well said
"Brogue" is also the Irish word for "shoe"; maybe "Oxfords not Brogues" refers to the wealthy and influential aristocrate founders of Kingsman who lost lost thier heirs during WW1. Perhaps they proposed the concept of Kingsman to thier Irish counterparts who rejected the notion of also participating in the project; so maybe "Oxfords not Brogues" refers to the British Oxford-educated sole founders...or maybe I'm thinking too much into it lol.
+Footloosemongoose I love this digression either way!! great thinking.
The Kavalier Thank you, very interesting video!
This is interesting whether it's right or not. Good man!
Well brogues are irish in origin
Love Kingsmen I believe he was trying to steer Eggsy in the the more formal and classic direction in the movie. Stuff like no brown within town. You can also wear oxfords or better whole cut oxfords on many formal ocations. Just the basic and classic shoes. Broghes were perferated to wear in muddy water and other outdoor work actives and thus less formal. I like long wing broghes myself. Plus Napoleon from The Man From Uncle wears broghes with a suit and that's good enough for me.
Also very excited for the Kingsmen sequel. Will miss Samuel L in the new one but I have some pretty high hopes.
Wait, in the film he says Oxfords have open lacing? Hmm
he was wrong, I love the movie but when he made that mistake I was very disappointed.
It's all nonsense. Just a movie line distinction. The re are dress oxfords and work oxford, dress brogues and work brogues. Today there is no class distinction between the two.
Simplicity is the key word for an Oxford.
I'm so confused... I need to watch this video again!
That shirt would look better with a double windsor knotted tie.
I loved the movie, but it's sad that Galahad said it wrong; he said that an oxford is any formal shoe with an open lacing system :( A derbie has open lacing and an oxford has closed.
Sir, it came to my attention in the middle of this video that your tie knot is much too small for your very wide collar. I'd recommend you fix that, perhaps going for a full Windsor knot
Was going to say the same.
Seconded. Also shirt seems too large for body style... he has an almost rumpled appearance in that ensemble.
Oxfords Without broguing are more formal than ones with broguing, while a Derby is usually less formal than an oxford, also the more broguing the less formal the shoe.
I think the wing tips look nice. Except all the women's shoes aren't how I want them. :(
From a practical view, the smooth no hole shoe would become scruffy and wrinkled if used too much, so would use for special occasions. The "holed" shoe more practical for daily use.
Any lack of shine is less noticeable.
Funny Fun fact in the end of Kingsman the Golden Circle in the scene were Merlin dice you can see him wearing brogues
Am looking forward to Kingsman sequel. And yes, the tie is from the Southern Gentleman's Box.
Just saw the movie. Why did he say Oxford is an open lacing? That is wrong.
NOOOOOOO!!!! WHY THE BLURRRRR. Great video.
I think from my understanding of the oxfords not brogues scene is that what is known as an 'Brogue' is actually an oxford shoe with additional broguing so the shoe is not a brogue but an oxford with broguing. For example the first shoe is an oxford then he moves on to the second shoe and refers to the broguing pattern but doesn't differentiate is as a different kind of shoe, therefore it is an oxford with brogue patterning not a brogue an gives birth to the saying oxfords not brogues.
Harry Hart really seems to not know about shoes, in addition to creating a false dichotomy between Oxfords and brogues, he says "An Oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing." That is wrong, because what makes an Oxford shoe an Oxford shoe is that it has a CLOSED lacing system.
Exactly!
I'll stick with the original _Bostonian_ shoe. Inexpensive and impressive.
BTW, they also make a _Baroque_ version of the _Bostonian._
I do love me some Clarks.
Yes, _CLARKS_ Tilden Leather Cap-Toe Oxfords are very nice.
Absolutely Adore that tie!
love the oxford-brogues! thanks for the clarification
I really enjoyed seeing the first kingsman movie. I especially liked car chase scene. He was driving in reverse trying to get away from the cops.
Great segment very informative...close up every shoe, every point. closer visual rather than holding up next to your head. Push it out towards the camera lens. Hold it pause a couple seconds so it registers with the viewer. Gagged me on the tie. How about paIsley silk veloure tie with a double loop English knot to help make your points stick! Otherwise very nice presentation. Thankyou!
0:07 black shoe on right (your left) is a derby and not an oxford
Tha black shoe on your left hand in 0:07 is actually a derby. btw nice video. The important difference is: derby vs oxford, and brogue vs no brogue. It can be a derby brogue, or a derby no brogue, as well as an oxford brogue, or and oxford no brogue ;)
+StylEd Men 👍🏻 spot on
shoe collections video??
With all due respect, sir, that tie is a crime against humanity. And for heaven's sake, learn how to tie a full Windsor. Then you'll be ready for the red carpet.
focus would also be nice
full Windsor makes people look like a used car salesmen, which is fine if that's the intended look
Gents and Kavalier: lots of the big menswear blogs and TH-camrs say that oxfords are more formal than derbys, even going as far as to say that derbys shouldn't really be worn with anything more formal than a casual suit. Is this really the case, or are they promoting antiquated and widely forgotten rules? I see plenty of sharp dressed professional men in suits wearing derbys and oxfords and derbys with broguing all the time. Also, how do brogue (wingtip) oxfords compare to plain derbys. Let's say that a groom at a outdoor wedding was choosing between a pair of black wingtip oxfords and black plain derbys to wear with a charcoal grey suit. Both have slim leather soles and are in great shape. Which option is better/more formal? Any thoughts from the crowd would be appreciated.
Hey I really love these videos!!! I was just wondering if you could do a review of the new J. Crew pima cotton American oxford shirt!!
The term means to be more formal; and reserved rather than flashy, loud and flamboyant. In the movie the spies were to blend in and not stand out.
-Stay classy gents. 😎
Can barely see the shoes you're holding up. Please do close ups
Great video!!! Very informative
Thank you... it was a great and fun explanation
Can brogues and oxford be worn with casual dresses like jeans, chinos, t-shirts, shirts etc?
Please focus your camera, if the autofocus is bad do it manualy since you are on a fixed position
That was as clear as mud !
I am ordering a bespoke captoe oxford. I am confused weather to have quarter brogue or plain.. I mainly want to wear it for formal occasions/ office/ client meetings. Please advise.
Your tie is quite bohemian. Sips wine
nice video sharing, thumbs up.
That intro's exciting when you know why he's right😂😂😂
I love this kind of shoes more than sneakers but the problem is they are all very stiff and uncomfortable to wear
+DerHalbeEuro try wolf and Shepherd
They don't ship to Germany and they are way to expensive for my budget.
Do you know some alternatives?
That is true to SOME extent. You gotta be lucky, honestly.
High-end-manufacturers use a wide variety of last shapes- they even differ within one company. The Sanford of Allen Edmonds is very, very wide, while they also sell that awfully slim full brogue derby (i own it, forgot its name though).
Such dir einen Schuh-Mücke. Die werden ihr Premium-Sortiment nicht los, ich habe dort einen MacNeil von AE für 90€ abgestaubt, der Schuh ist aus Shell Cordovan und kostet eigentlich knappe 700€.
Außerdem müssen Rahmengenähte Schuhe einfach eingelaufen und gut gepflegt werden- Die Ausballung aus Kork passt sich an deinen Fuß an.
Einige Hersteler im 150-200€-Bereich bieten ein Wechselfußbett an, sprich du kannst orthopädische Einlagen einlegen. ;)
Really like your videos and how you value different subscription services ! Have you heard of Mtailor? Just saw it's ad on tv and wondered if it's worth it :) hope to see you review it soon!
+Angie Hsu video going up this week
What is the brand/make of those brown shoes at 1:07 please!? They look awesome!
He probably should have said something like smooth leather Oxfords not brogues. Shoes intended to dress more formally. Kingsman don’t dress informally.
Or if he wanted to discern between formal and less formal, the movie phrase maybe should have been “Oxfords not Derby’s.” And then display these two styles side-by-side when he selected the Oxford shoes for Eggsy to try. Then he could have said “and never broguing.”
That way less informed people won’t be confused to know broguing are also on Oxfords. And of course on Derby’s. The movie caused unnecessary confusion.
You touched on the fact that brogues could be oxfords, but then kind of lost it and went back to talking about the "distinction." This debate is like short sleeve shirts vs. button-ups. You can have both, or neither, or one, or the other, and so pitting them against each other is simply incorrect.
Also -- some brogue derbies would have helped draw the distinction.
What shoes to use for skateboarding? Oxfords, brogues or derbies
Need to show the difference in what you mean by the lacing differences. Sounds informational but I can't see it....which is the power of video.
Kavalier, can you make a video on quality open/wide neck t-shirts? They are so hard to find, and if you do they're expensive or not good quality! Thanks
That finale in kingsman tho...
🎆
You need to give us the URL references of the things you wear and the shoes you showed us.
“Wolf and Shepherd” you said?
hi what wolf and shepherd shoe is that? i mean which ones were used in a marathon? or did you mean any shoe of the brand can be used in a marathon?
you have to try Loakes
Do you use a mic or no? Wondering wear the static is coming from.
What kind of good mic would you suggest btw? Thanks.
I have the same tie from the gentleman's box btw 👍🏻
+Escobar Style1 I have a Rode boom mic but I am almost certain I'm getting static from both my HVAC unit in my basement and the large metal piping down there. Building new studio which will sound just great!
The Kavalier oh gotcha!! Spell check btw: where and NOT "wear" ... I hate when I do stuff like this. Smh.
But good to know with the mic. New studio huh!? Can't wait my friend 👍🏻👍🏻. Love your videos my friend. Very very informative.
lol. did your camera really focus that tiny bit of chair?
I prefer my all-stars
Oxford, Brogues, Oxford, Brogues,Arrrrgh! My head is about to explode!
Well done.
Many gentlemen prefer the smooth, minimalistic Oxfords to Brogues which are seen as perhaps too stern. Wearing Brogues with a formal suit is frowned upon as they are country shoes unfit for 'stylish city gents' hence the phrase 'Oxfords, not Brogues' in the movie.
Jordan Blackburn Although in this day and age the most common dress shoe is a horrible, boxy, tram line derby made out of crap leather so a nice pair of brogues with Oxford lacing is a perfectly acceptable business shoe unless you’re in an environment where everyone pays close attention to such things. When would you wear a black brogue if not with a business suit?
Should I add, there are full brogues and half brogues.
I like brogues. Just brought some dr martens brogues with the air sole.. feel and look great.
What's with all the background static on this video?
Problem that I’ve fixed since recording this one. Always trying to step up my production!
You need to adjust the camera focus.
Can you do a bond video? Outfits from recent films.
Might have to bring out my custom made replica Goldfinger blue terrycloth romper ;-)
Would you recommend Cole Hanna as quality dress shoes?
The proportions of your tie look off.
Ideeem it’s because he has a spread collar with a thin tie
Never hear of the Kingsman film. Gonna have to check that out.
Nat Jag great movies if you love james bond type stuff.
+Nat Jag absolutely. Especially if you're into fun action films
That movie script is totally wrong, oxfords are closed lacing systems
Now I'm really confused?
Más vídeos así please
working on it!
Arrrrrhhhh that oxford part irritated no much because oxford is closed lacing
Have you tried Scarzza shoes?
i love proper clothe shirts
Crocs X
Its Darby not Deeeerrrrby, Oxfords have a defined straight lacing, Brogues are the perforations.
Stop trying to imitate kirby Allison
The movie literally explains this
Then why did you click the video
Oxfords, brogues? Rather stay with my loafers, Jon.
+Dean Christensen 🤗 all about the formal pumps!
The Kavalier, I'm looking forward to seeing you in them. Sockless look or shear stockings, Jon.
Drinking game.
Take a shot everytime he says "oxford" or "brogue"
I do not want to be responsible for deaths.
Y the vid not in focus
Oh dear god, never again should an American explain english shoe style. Please leave it next time :s
Also.. I liked the Muppet show omege
oxford, not brogue = we're oxford (noblemen), not rogue
ur video arent in fokus..
what shirt u wearing in the video
David Lipsh A white collared shirt?
company?
Well, I don't wear either. I prefer single monk strap shoes. It's my signature look.
I mean, I don't want to be the 100th guy with oxfords. You gotta be different to stand out.
Excellent approach! Great to have a signature look.
Oxfords, WHAT ARE THOOOOOOSE
when youre just wearing chelseas.. hahaha
Nervermind they were hugo boss
and they all hurt like shit walking and that's why I use nike's haha
No to the shirt
Your presentation is misdirected. Take the camera off of you and put it on the shoes. You are talking about the shoes, not about you. Put the shoes down on a white table. Talk about each shoe using a well manicured finger to point at each difference you are discussing. Allow your finger to linger over the spot you want your audience to see what you are talking about. Otherwise, this is just a video about how good you think you look and how much you think you know.
Thank you Sunny!
Galahad explains it in the clip very succinctly, so this whole video is redundant.
He was wrong though. He said Oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing, Oxford's have closed lacing.
Manners maketh man
Bottom line...just fucking wear Oxfords yoo..
so far im 20 seconds in and ill can notices is that your video is out of focus
just saw your apology note, saved it lol
Manners maketh man.