One of the most important parts of my journey in making The Noble Shoe has been making friends and meeting great people around the world like you Preston. Thank you so much. It means a lot to me.
Kostas Mandilaris - 👍🙏I hope / wish you and Preston can do a collaboration video with Hugo at Sartorial Talks channel. Hugo and his wife Sonya are awesome!! 💝🤗💞🤗🙏
LovingAtlanta I am making and selling that oxford Preston reviewed. I have passion for shoes and also love it when a woman wears them well. Most in Sweden wear sneakers :(
Congrats on the Santoses. Delicate and yet substantial. The patination gives a lovely sunburst motif. And THANKS for clarifying the style differences, but every time I hear blucher i think "frau Blucher (cue horses)" lol
I luv this channel. U have taught me so much regarding the shoe integrity, especially the Oxford. My father wore all of these, and did so very well, kept them in pristine condition, and always used a Shoehorn. I have two pair of Oxfords, Vintage and I am so joyful that I found them. One is a pair Spectators, and the other is a regular Oxford, but both needs to be conditioned and shined to perfection. I am not sure I know how and do not want to ruin them. Hopefully I can find someone here to assist me with that. I am yet watching u though, just in case I am unable to, and maybe I will gain the confidence in which to do so. Thank y so much again for sharing, I luv ur work, integrity, demeanor and voice, so sublime!!
Excellent review of a gorgeous shoe. Kostas is a good man as are you Preston and its great to see you supporting him. The patina right out of the box on those is quite impressive. I have a few pairs of Carlos Santos and the quality is amazing for the price. Can't wait for my next pair to come in from The Noble Shoe in about a month!!
Hi Preston...a great idea to do videos on general shoe related content, outside of just polshing and maintenance. Reviews and videos on dress shoes will be very well received if you make more videos like this. Look forward to more such great content.
That derby is gorgeous, Carlos Santos' products have so much value! Time-stamping 12:11 this color pairs brilliantly with dark denim. Thanks Preston for another educational video.
This color (Braga Patina) is one of the most popular in the Patina Service. I have a lot of pictures of various make ups on my Instagram @thenobleshoe It is one of the nicest pairings for denim in my opinion!
I learned the actual difference between a blucher and a derby, not that I never wondered but I thought I knew. I checked my C&J Pembrokes and they are 100% Derbies, thanks for the vid!
I had a pair of that exact same Floresheim blucher of same leather and color like almost 30 years ago. That V-cleat and the countless nails around the heel! Slippery they were a little but oh God I like the tapping they do. Storm welt was well made to hug the upper leather tightly too. Those were the days when Floresheim made really good shoes comparable to say Church's in terms of construction and build. Not anymore these days.
All along I thought I owned a pair of Oxfords. HAHAHA my bad. 😂 Thank you for the info. ❤️ Turns out upon finishing your video, I own a pair of Derby and hey thanks for the tutorial video for mirror shining! Helps a lot! Been sharing that tutorial video to my friends and redirecting them to your channel to learn more about shoe care especially dress shoes. ❤️ More power! ❤️
Nice video. The sole of the right shoe is sewn off-center. The E on "BRITISH MADE" pushes all the way to the stitching (1:58) whereas it is centered on the left shoe (1:43). Beautiful leather, but I can't unsee the asymmetry.
Jump to 7:00 for a discussion of the styles. He touches and shines the shoes for 6:59. Otherwise, very good explanation. The websites that try to explain without pics are awful.
Excellent video as always sir. However, there was one thing you didn't mention as to why the Derby originally came into being. It is generally accepted that Oxfords were developed in the early 1800's as the fashion for boots began to fall out of style and the students at Oxford University started wearing the style of shoe that became known as the Oxford. Formal occasion aside, not everyone found the restrictive, (closed) lacing comfortable. Men with a higher foot particularly had difficulty with the closed lacing. So, the Derby, (nobody is sure where the name originates) came into being in that the more open lacing style of the Derby gave more comfort for many a young and older gentleman particularly. Please forgive this slide into patriotism, but I am English, and as such believe that the Blucher is nothing more than an affectation of style brought about by foreign, (not British) shoe manufacturers in an effort to sell more product by producing a style seen as specific to that country, (no names, no pack drill). ;-) Excellent video.
The Blucher was originally a boot, its namesake commissioned for his army so as to offer his troops better footwear. It became more or less the standard forerunner of modern combat boots and work boots. Eventually these were cut down to a shoe. Just as oxfords extended become a boot the Balmoral.
For me all those 3 stiles is the most stiles you need to have that will cover most of the events that you need but for most light brown/ black and wine color those are my personal choice thank you for sharing 🤙 👌😎
Thanks for the education Preston! I now know my next purchase should probably be derbies. I have a high and forward arch and the seem above the vamp aggravates my feet. Short of shoveling out a ton of money for bespoke shoes derbies might be my most comfortable choice.
Great information on the differences between the shoes this video has been very informative keep up with the educational information I would like to also see videos on the history of some of these shoes and perhaps other styles of shoes out there like square toe slip-ons xcetera thank you very much Preston
4 ปีที่แล้ว
Should i use renovator or saphir nappa leather balm on a new pair before wearing?
Thanks for the education. I never knew what bluchers were. I found a pair of Florsheim moc-toe penny loafers at a thrift store in great condition for $10. All leather from the tongue to the stylishly thin soles. I try to avoid damp concrete. They shined up really nicely.
Great video! I didn’t realize the subtle difference between the derby and the blucher, but that clarifies it nicely. I’ve long preferred oxfords, but recently have become quite addicted to the Florsheim Imperial long wings. 😄
Thank you for the channel. I have learned much. Question, I used saphire ren cream on some existing shoes and found that the creasing became more prominent than anytime I have worn them before. Is this due to the softening of leather and will the trees undo some of that creasing? I used very little to not saturate the leather.
Thank you for the informative instruction!! On a whim I walked into a thrift shop today and bought a pair of To Boot NewYork Darby’s . They are in wonderful condition, a beautiful cognac color, grand total of purchase....$7, I felt like I was stealing!! Ran home and spent 2 hours polishing them.... very fun!
Love your channel. Lots of info. Polishing my shoes and boots have always this calming effect on me. Would appreciate it a lot if you could include more side by side comparison for every step that you do. Thanks bro. Keep up with the content.
That Dainite sole on the right shoe was very sloppily placed when built. I hope you got a good deal on them. I'm a big fan of the cleaner lines of an Oxford.
Wholecuts are a relatively new addition and since they don’t have brogues and are technically an Oxford, I’d say they are just as formal as a normal cap toe Oxford.
Nice educational video that plebes like me can use. Can you do a video on changing color of a shoe from start to finish? I have a pair of medium to dark brown which I would like to turn black . It is 15 years old and hardly used because of having a similar (and more comfortable one). I have in mind that Acetone with a nylon brush and microfiber cloth will properly deglaze and remove the surface wax and color, but I don't know how much needs to be removed. Do I need to deglaze the sole edge trim too? I would then mask off the edge where the foot enters the shoe. Then I would apply Fiebing's black aniline dye with a flat bristle brush to keep coat even, and repeat for another coat. Dry overnight then apply black cream, then black polish. OR to be daring and simulate patina, go dark brown with black burnishings. Could i do this by first applying brown cream to the surface then stipple or dab dye to create the burnisings and highlights? I have used dye before to refinish lesser violins to create faux bird's eye maple pattern and to simulate a patina of wear which was possible after first applying a thinned varnish onto the stripped violin surface before the dye.
Dyeing a shoe black would be the simplest answer. I think the steps you just posted would absolutely work. You could also do a patina but that would require a bit more work but I think you can do it
I have a pair of Allen Edmonds Strandmok, which are a not calfskin, I believe saddle leather?? What Saphir product would you recommend to nourish the leather? Thanks, Chris
👍In your experience are there any particular brands (besides Bespoke shoes) good for wider feet? 8 4E? Any particular of these three styles more commonly done wider? Thanks Another great video!
Alden and Allen Edmonds make wider shoes. White's Boots also make some custom wider ones as far as I know. Check out Zeb Made To Measure as it is rather affordable and you have a very special foot.
Great video as always but I'm a bit confused, not by anything you have said but the oxfords that you pointed out have broguing while the derby has a plain stitch on the to cap. Now here is confusion. My allen edmonds park avenue has a very similar stitch on the toe cap and is almost identical in style but it is considered an oxford. It even has the same large leather area that extends to the back of the heel which is indicative of a derby. Why do they consider the Park Avenue an Oxford yet it more closely resembles a derby in almost all characteristics or can the two term now be used to describe each other?
Would it be worth trying out the saphir beaute de cuir line if the medal d'or line is a bit out of my budget? Or is there a better line for around that price by chance? I've got 2 pairs and another 2 on the way and I want to start protecting them a bit better than the venitian leather balm and cobblers choice cream I use on my boots.
Not sure if it is the best place to ask. But lately noticed Allen Edmons has sneakers. Has anyone here had a go with them? Can they get a re-sole? How do they wear? I usually keep a pair of sneekers around, but quality has gone way down across all brands. Currently own my 3rd pair of Ecco's. The uppers survive, but I wear through their sole in under a year... And no cobbler arounds my parts can/wants to replace their soles. Other brands that get to my neck of the woods are even worse or just plain ghastly.
@@TheElegantOxford Thank you! That would really save me quite a bit in the long run. Also will just add the mandatory love for you channel. It helped me restore some of my old shoes and find shoe care products that i could not find any equivalent after the fall of communism ;)
The Carlos Santos are a beautiful color. The problem I run into with these burnished colors is matching when it is time to strip and re-shine. Matching never happens. I can only shine to the closest color, and the color always turns out appearing more solid. I don’t wear Derby’s or Bluchers. Because why? Notwithstanding how great they look. I only do Oxfords because I can dress them down with broguing. And never split-toes. These off-shoot shoe styles (Derby’s, Brogues, Split-Toe) seem irrelevant. If I intend to dress up, formal or casual, I go all the way by wearing Oxfords.
Well before rubber was invented in the late 1800’s there was no other flexible yet durable material that would work. The tradition continued and survived until today.
I have to say, if you're a clumsy person like me, leather soles are a death trap waiting to happen. Rubber all the way for safety for me, despite the environmental implications.
Nice shoes. To tell the truth, i had no idea about these different types of shoes. For me it was shoe , shoe with holes shoe with laces and shoe without laces😂😂😂
Bro, could you by any chance do a shoe review on Indonesian shoes like Jalan Sriwijaya. Saw them at a shop before and they seemed well made. Wondering how they compare to other European shoe makers. Much appreciated bro. 🤜🤛
Love it! Really like the idea of explaining what is good form to ware with different styles of shoes. Would love to hear more on this subject. What do you think would be a good shoe to ware with cords in green, grey and light brown? Thanks again!
British shoemakers rarely refer to anything as a Blucher. However, some of them refer to Derby shoes as Gibsons, reserving Derby for boots. So far as I can tell, there is no difference between Gibson and Derby shoes.
"slippery on carpet" My brother in Christ, those soles will slip on damn near any surface! i look like a clown on ice walking down the street sometimes if it rains earlier in the day
You discuss order of "formal" to "less formal" but you forgot to include one other item of footwear. Yup, the sneaker (aka "trainer" in the UK). I went to a business meeting last week, to visit a bank. Usual expectation of suit, tie, shoes and one of the other guys from another company turned up in a suit and black sneakers. Each to their own I guess. :) I'm still waiting on that mirror shine of an egg by the way. ;)
Good morning. I have spent the last 30 years paying attention to top quality shoes (the first 30 years of my life I could not afford them). I own 40+ pairs of only hand made shoes based on my own last and they are all wonderful to wear. The first thing I noticed in your video is that you use your fingers to apply shoecream/wax ..... don’t do that since there are solvents and other stuff in them which you don’t want to permeate through your skin, NOT HEALTHY! Use nitrile gloves and a soft cloth to apply any of those products. Second, in my humble opinion the inventor of the „open laced shoe“ was Generalfeldmarschal Blücher and even though he was German those shoes are called Derbys in Germany but Blüchers in England but no other difference. Btw. Blücher is not pronounced „blutschers“ ..... listen to a German native speaker, the „ü“ is not a „u“ and „ch“ not „tsch“. Third, in Germany looking into shoe-stores all shoesalesman tie them using paralell lacing (just decoration) but paralell lacing is for Oxfords only and Derbies should use Criss Cross lacing starting from inside up to keep the only straight part in the background. Blüchers idea was that his troops have a more „adjustable“ shoe for long days out in the field and there the x-lacing is the only way to keep it flexible. Fourth, I do love the level of shine you achieve. Greetings, Bernhard
To this day, I still call Bluchers, "Insurance Man Shoes". Why? Growing up as a kid, the only time I EVER recall seeing these shoes was once a month, when the representative from the life insurance company my mom had, would come by the house to collect the monthly payment. He would take mom's money, tear this little receipt from his huge, overstuffed payment book and the walk away. It wasn't always the same guy , but no matter who the actual guy was that came to collect the money, it was a CERTAINTY that he would have on a pair of these. Back then I thought this style of shoe was the ugliest thing on the planet and I hated them! Fast forward numerous decades and I don't mind them so much........I still don't own a pair though. I guess it's still too traumatic for me seeing these old guy always coming to my house "taking" my mom's money.........taking the money she could've used to buy me and my brother some new toys!! 😆 😆 😂 😂 OH by the way, GREAT video by the way .....very informative.
One of the most important parts of my journey in making The Noble Shoe has been making friends and meeting great people around the world like you Preston. Thank you so much. It means a lot to me.
Thanks for everything, Kostas!
I will be purchasing noble shoes and Preston thank you for sharing! Beautiful shoes Kostas
@@m3stevie Thank you so much for the support sir.
Kostas Mandilaris - 👍🙏I hope / wish you and Preston can do a collaboration video with Hugo at Sartorial Talks channel. Hugo and his wife Sonya are awesome!! 💝🤗💞🤗🙏
LovingAtlanta I met Hugo a few months ago he is a real gentleman!
👍Terrific info. Nice shoes. As a woman, I like watching these videos because it gives me something else to talk about on a date.😂
LovingAtlanta I am making and selling that oxford Preston reviewed. I have passion for shoes and also love it when a woman wears them well. Most in Sweden wear sneakers :(
I used to hate first dates but now I realize how cool they were!
@@SteamHunterKostas are you going to be at Super trunk in Amsterdam next weekend?
djtaylorutube i actually won’t, in the end I was not so excited about it :( I will be in the London trunk show though!
@@SteamHunterKostas ok, I would have said hi. :)
Preston thank you for making this video. I appreciate the education on learning the differences between the three styles of dress shoes. Great job !!
Thanks for watching
Congrats on the Santoses. Delicate and yet substantial. The patination gives a lovely sunburst motif. And THANKS for clarifying the style differences, but every time I hear blucher i think "frau Blucher (cue horses)" lol
Robert Hoffhines this particular patina looks beautiful in natural light, something between amber and fiery cognac 😍
I luv this channel. U have taught me so much regarding the shoe integrity, especially the Oxford. My father wore all of these, and did so very well, kept them in pristine condition, and always used a Shoehorn. I have two pair of Oxfords, Vintage and I am so joyful that I found them. One is a pair Spectators, and the other is a regular Oxford, but both needs to be conditioned and shined to perfection. I am not sure I know how and do not want to ruin them. Hopefully I can find someone here to assist me with that. I am yet watching u though, just in case I am unable to, and maybe I will gain the confidence in which to do so. Thank y so much again for sharing, I luv ur work, integrity, demeanor and voice, so sublime!!
Great info! Wasn't sure about difference but now I've been schooled!
Thanks for watching
Excellent review of a gorgeous shoe. Kostas is a good man as are you Preston and its great to see you supporting him. The patina right out of the box on those is quite impressive. I have a few pairs of Carlos Santos and the quality is amazing for the price. Can't wait for my next pair to come in from The Noble Shoe in about a month!!
MB Shoedoc 🥰
@@SteamHunterKostas my man 👍👊
Thanks, Doc. Shoe lovers unite
Hi Preston...a great idea to do videos on general shoe related content, outside of just polshing and maintenance. Reviews and videos on dress shoes will be very well received if you make more videos like this. Look forward to more such great content.
More to come!
That derby is gorgeous, Carlos Santos' products have so much value! Time-stamping 12:11 this color pairs brilliantly with dark denim. Thanks Preston for another educational video.
This color (Braga Patina) is one of the most popular in the Patina Service. I have a lot of pictures of various make ups on my Instagram @thenobleshoe
It is one of the nicest pairings for denim in my opinion!
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
Great information Preston. Each style has it own unique features on a person. I personally like all three styles. Thanks for sharing this video.
Thanks for watching
Truly love your channel. Thank you, Preston.
I learned the actual difference between a blucher and a derby, not that I never wondered but I thought I knew. I checked my C&J Pembrokes and they are 100% Derbies, thanks for the vid!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
📝
😎👍🏻
I had a pair of that exact same Floresheim blucher of same leather and color like almost 30 years ago. That V-cleat and the countless nails around the heel! Slippery they were a little but oh God I like the tapping they do. Storm welt was well made to hug the upper leather tightly too. Those were the days when Floresheim made really good shoes comparable to say Church's in terms of construction and build. Not anymore these days.
Beautiful shoes. Yet again, calming video. Thanks for clarifying what makes a shoe more vs less formal.
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it
Great choice on those Derby’s. Absolutely Beautiful!!!
Thanks!
All along I thought I owned a pair of Oxfords. HAHAHA my bad. 😂 Thank you for the info. ❤️ Turns out upon finishing your video, I own a pair of Derby and hey thanks for the tutorial video for mirror shining! Helps a lot! Been sharing that tutorial video to my friends and redirecting them to your channel to learn more about shoe care especially dress shoes. ❤️ More power! ❤️
Thanks for watching! I’m glad the video was helpful.
Look at you, Mr. Sartorial.
Keep up the great work 👍💪.
Thanks 😊🙏
Nice video. The sole of the right shoe is sewn off-center. The E on "BRITISH MADE" pushes all the way to the stitching (1:58) whereas it is centered on the left shoe (1:43). Beautiful leather, but I can't unsee the asymmetry.
That’s ok with me at the price point for the shoes
Very good presentation...I was waiting for this one...This has cleared up a few questions I had...
Thanks Preston!!
My pleasure
Jump to 7:00 for a discussion of the styles. He touches and shines the shoes for 6:59. Otherwise, very good explanation. The websites that try to explain without pics are awful.
A great video!!! You knocked this one out of the park!!!
⚾️
Great video Preston!!! Been planning to buy my first pair formal shoe. Thanks for the insight.
Awesome! Thanks for watching
Excellent video as always sir. However, there was one thing you didn't mention as to why the Derby originally came into being. It is generally accepted that Oxfords were developed in the early 1800's as the fashion for boots began to fall out of style and the students at Oxford University started wearing the style of shoe that became known as the Oxford. Formal occasion aside, not everyone found the restrictive, (closed) lacing comfortable. Men with a higher foot particularly had difficulty with the closed lacing. So, the Derby, (nobody is sure where the name originates) came into being in that the more open lacing style of the Derby gave more comfort for many a young and older gentleman particularly.
Please forgive this slide into patriotism, but I am English, and as such believe that the Blucher is nothing more than an affectation of style brought about by foreign, (not British) shoe manufacturers in an effort to sell more product by producing a style seen as specific to that country, (no names, no pack drill). ;-)
Excellent video.
Great to know!
The Blucher was originally a boot, its namesake commissioned for his army so as to offer his troops better footwear. It became more or less the standard forerunner of modern combat boots and work boots. Eventually these were cut down to a shoe.
Just as oxfords extended become a boot the Balmoral.
Great discourse and learning. Thanks!
Thankyou, for this explanation, I love history and you rounded out and filled in the gaps on Preston's presentation.
For me all those 3 stiles is the most stiles you need to have that will cover most of the events that you need but for most light brown/ black and wine color those are my personal choice thank you for sharing 🤙 👌😎
Totally true
Thanks for the education Preston! I now know my next purchase should probably be derbies. I have a high and forward arch and the seem above the vamp aggravates my feet. Short of shoveling out a ton of money for bespoke shoes derbies might be my most comfortable choice.
That’s true, Austin. Many people find Derbies helpful with that.
Great information on the differences between the shoes this video has been very informative keep up with the educational information I would like to also see videos on the history of some of these shoes and perhaps other styles of shoes out there like square toe slip-ons xcetera thank you very much Preston
Should i use renovator or saphir nappa leather balm on a new pair before wearing?
Excellent work as always Preston!
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the education. I never knew what bluchers were.
I found a pair of Florsheim moc-toe penny loafers at a thrift store in great condition for $10. All leather from the tongue to the stylishly thin soles. I try to avoid damp concrete.
They shined up really nicely.
That’s awesome 👏 great find
Thank for sharing, very informative.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching
I got a pair of derby’s. They fit my style more than oxfords. Great information though .
They are great shoes!
Where can I buy saphyr products for use in my shoes and look like these pairs? I live in México.
First!!! Love your channel
Thanks, Dutch!
Found out I don't have oxfords. Great information and those new shoes are nice!
Glad it helped
What class of formality do the lighter browns and reds fit, such as medium brown and cherry red?
Great video! I didn’t realize the subtle difference between the derby and the blucher, but that clarifies it nicely. I’ve long preferred oxfords, but recently have become quite addicted to the Florsheim Imperial long wings. 😄
I love imperials. Such a great shoe
Derbies are Excellent
Thank you for the channel. I have learned much. Question, I used saphire ren cream on some existing shoes and found that the creasing became more prominent than anytime I have worn them before. Is this due to the softening of leather and will the trees undo some of that creasing? I used very little to not saturate the leather.
Thank you for the informative instruction!! On a whim I walked into a thrift shop today and bought a pair of To Boot NewYork Darby’s . They are in wonderful condition, a beautiful cognac color, grand total of purchase....$7, I felt like I was stealing!! Ran home and spent 2 hours polishing them.... very fun!
That’s an awesome find Jeff! Keep up the good work
Love your channel. Lots of info. Polishing my shoes and boots have always this calming effect on me. Would appreciate it a lot if you could include more side by side comparison for every step that you do. Thanks bro. Keep up with the content.
Will do
I would love to own a pair of Trickers. I always use Saphir products on my boots and shoes 👞.
Is there a difference in taking care of women's leather shoes?
Another very helpful video
Thank you
Love the info!! Appreciate it!
i own a pair from Noble Shoe and agree with what you're saying in the video -
great place to buy something unique.
Absolutely!
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge with us
My pleasure
I am from India and love your videos. Can you share the link to buy this shoe.
How do those compare to Allen Edmonds?
awesome, thanks for the info, Sir.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
That Dainite sole on the right shoe was very sloppily placed when built. I hope you got a good deal on them. I'm a big fan of the cleaner lines of an Oxford.
You started it. It’s your fault. I just purchased 3 pairs of Allen Edmond shoes last week. Because of this video I MUST buy more. 😆😆.
That’s awesome!
This was excellent! Thanks!
My pleasure
Nice video man. 🔥
Thanks!
Excellent video Preston! Where do you feel wholecuts lie on this formality spectrum?
Wholecuts are a relatively new addition and since they don’t have brogues and are technically an Oxford, I’d say they are just as formal as a normal cap toe Oxford.
Great explanation on a such misunderstood topic.
Nice educational video that plebes like me can use. Can you do a video on changing color of a shoe from start to finish? I have a pair of medium to dark brown which I would like to turn black . It is 15 years old and hardly used because of having a similar (and more comfortable one). I have in mind that Acetone with a nylon brush and microfiber cloth will properly deglaze and remove the surface wax and color, but I don't know how much needs to be removed. Do I need to deglaze the sole edge trim too? I would then mask off the edge where the foot enters the shoe. Then I would apply Fiebing's black aniline dye with a flat bristle brush to keep coat even, and repeat for another coat. Dry overnight then apply black cream, then black polish. OR to be daring and simulate patina, go dark brown with black burnishings. Could i do this by first applying brown cream to the surface then stipple or dab dye to create the burnisings and highlights? I have used dye before to refinish lesser violins to create faux bird's eye maple pattern and to simulate a patina of wear which was possible after first applying a thinned varnish onto the stripped violin surface before the dye.
Dyeing a shoe black would be the simplest answer. I think the steps you just posted would absolutely work.
You could also do a patina but that would require a bit more work but I think you can do it
Beautiful shoes!
Thanks!
I have a pair of Allen Edmonds Strandmok, which are a not calfskin, I believe saddle leather?? What Saphir product would you recommend to nourish the leather?
Thanks,
Chris
Hey, Chris. For the standmok, I recommend Saphir renovator or Saphir greasy cream only.
The Elegant Oxford Thank you very much. I’m probably incorrect in calling it a saddle leather. 🤷♂️
Can you wear derbys with business suits? My Carmina derbys are much more comfortable than my oxfords.
Have you handled Grant Stone shoes? If so, how do you like them?
I haven’t yet but I hear very good things. I need to try a pair out.
👍In your experience are there any particular brands (besides Bespoke shoes) good for wider feet? 8 4E? Any particular of these three styles more commonly done wider? Thanks Another great video!
Alden and Allen Edmonds make wider shoes. White's Boots also make some custom wider ones as far as I know. Check out Zeb Made To Measure as it is rather affordable and you have a very special foot.
Great video as always but I'm a bit confused, not by anything you have said but the oxfords that you pointed out have broguing while the derby has a plain stitch on the to cap. Now here is confusion. My allen edmonds park avenue has a very similar stitch on the toe cap and is almost identical in style but it is considered an oxford. It even has the same large leather area that extends to the back of the heel which is indicative of a derby. Why do they consider the Park Avenue an Oxford yet it more closely resembles a derby in almost all characteristics or can the two term now be used to describe each other?
It's all about the lacing. Closed lacing makes a shoe an oxford regardless of the other features.
Can I ask you guys which soles do you prefer? Leather soles or rubber?
That’s a hard one. If I could only pick one forever, I’d have to go with dainite
Would it be worth trying out the saphir beaute de cuir line if the medal d'or line is a bit out of my budget? Or is there a better line for around that price by chance? I've got 2 pairs and another 2 on the way and I want to start protecting them a bit better than the venitian leather balm and cobblers choice cream I use on my boots.
Beaut de Cuir line is fine! I use the wax and it’s really good.
Thank you very informative
Thanks for watching
awesome video
Thanks 🙏
Hey Preston when should you use acetone to take the Wax off the shoes?
Whenever you want. I’d say once a year. Use a hair dyer and melt the wax off. It’s gentler than acetone
@@TheElegantOxford
Preston you are the man!
Is there any advice for keeping ostrich leather boots healthy? Are they the same protocol as normal leather boots?
I apologize but I’ve never worked on ostrich that being said however, a light conditioner would work fine. Bick 4 is gentle enough
@@TheElegantOxford thank you very much I will give it a try. 🤜🏼💥🤛🏼
Not sure if it is the best place to ask.
But lately noticed Allen Edmons has sneakers. Has anyone here had a go with them? Can they get a re-sole? How do they wear?
I usually keep a pair of sneekers around, but quality has gone way down across all brands. Currently own my 3rd pair of Ecco's. The uppers survive, but I wear through their sole in under a year... And no cobbler arounds my parts can/wants to replace their soles. Other brands that get to my neck of the woods are even worse or just plain ghastly.
All of AE’s shoes can be resoles as far as I know, even the sneakers.
@@TheElegantOxford Thank you! That would really save me quite a bit in the long run.
Also will just add the mandatory love for you channel. It helped me restore some of my old shoes and find shoe care products that i could not find any equivalent after the fall of communism ;)
I don't have a pair of derby's right now either, they are a great casual shoe.
They certainly are!
que sapatos fantásticos,obrigado pelo vídeo.
*DAR* bee!!
The Carlos Santos are a beautiful color. The problem I run into with these burnished colors is matching when it is time to strip and re-shine. Matching never happens. I can only shine to the closest color, and the color always turns out appearing more solid.
I don’t wear Derby’s or Bluchers. Because why? Notwithstanding how great they look. I only do Oxfords because I can dress them down with broguing. And never split-toes. These off-shoot shoe styles (Derby’s, Brogues, Split-Toe) seem irrelevant. If I intend to dress up, formal or casual, I go all the way by wearing Oxfords.
Why would leather be used on the bottom of shoes?
Well before rubber was invented in the late 1800’s there was no other flexible yet durable material that would work. The tradition continued and survived until today.
I have to say, if you're a clumsy person like me, leather soles are a death trap waiting to happen. Rubber all the way for safety for me, despite the environmental implications.
Derby is pronounced Darby in England
I like how they pronounce schedule in England. Thats my favorite.
Again, in England they are called „Bluechers“ nothing else.
Nice shoes. To tell the truth, i had no idea about these different types of shoes. For me it was shoe , shoe with holes shoe with laces and shoe without laces😂😂😂
I’m glad the video helped
Bro, could you by any chance do a shoe review on Indonesian shoes like Jalan Sriwijaya. Saw them at a shop before and they seemed well made. Wondering how they compare to other European shoe makers. Much appreciated bro.
🤜🤛
Love it! Really like the idea of explaining what is good form to ware with different styles of shoes. Would love to hear more on this subject.
What do you think would be a good shoe to ware with cords in green, grey and light brown?
Thanks again!
A good medium brown would be a great option for those colors
British shoemakers rarely refer to anything as a Blucher. However, some of them refer to Derby shoes as Gibsons, reserving Derby for boots. So far as I can tell, there is no difference between Gibson and Derby shoes.
Here in Germany Derbys are much more popular than Oxfords. This goes not only for expensive but especially for cheaper shoes
That’s cool to know! Thanks!
2nd 😃
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
"slippery on carpet"
My brother in Christ, those soles will slip on damn near any surface! i look like a clown on ice walking down the street sometimes if it rains earlier in the day
That’s so true! I’ve taken a nasty fall before
We call Bluchers Brogues
You discuss order of "formal" to "less formal" but you forgot to include one other item of footwear. Yup, the sneaker (aka "trainer" in the UK). I went to a business meeting last week, to visit a bank. Usual expectation of suit, tie, shoes and one of the other guys from another company turned up in a suit and black sneakers. Each to their own I guess. :)
I'm still waiting on that mirror shine of an egg by the way. ;)
It’s a popular look nowadays but it’s not for me haha 😆
He is removing shoes out of the box with so much care it feels as if he is unboxing an AP Royal Oak.
Oh Christ! Took 7 mins to begin explaining the differences.
Yes! Lol
I find rubber soles very unstylish. I absolutely dislike them.
Good morning. I have spent the last 30 years paying attention to top quality shoes (the first 30 years of my life I could not afford them). I own 40+ pairs of only hand made shoes based on my own last and they are all wonderful to wear.
The first thing I noticed in your video is that you use your fingers to apply shoecream/wax ..... don’t do that since there are solvents and other stuff in them which you don’t want to permeate through your skin, NOT HEALTHY! Use nitrile gloves and a soft cloth to apply any of those products.
Second, in my humble opinion the inventor of the „open laced shoe“ was Generalfeldmarschal Blücher and even though he was German those shoes are called Derbys in Germany but Blüchers in England but no other difference. Btw. Blücher is not pronounced „blutschers“ ..... listen to a German native speaker, the „ü“ is not a „u“ and „ch“ not „tsch“.
Third, in Germany looking into shoe-stores all shoesalesman tie them using paralell lacing (just decoration) but paralell lacing is for Oxfords only and Derbies should use Criss Cross lacing starting from inside up to keep the only straight part in the background. Blüchers idea was that his troops have a more „adjustable“ shoe for long days out in the field and there the x-lacing is the only way to keep it flexible.
Fourth, I do love the level of shine you achieve.
Greetings, Bernhard
No shoe trees were used in the making of this video.
😂😂😂
Interesting pointless factoid about UK size 11: It's the only shoe size that is the same size in inches, i.e. 11 inches. :)
That’s cool to know
The correct pronunciation of Blucher:
th-cam.com/video/ZAYVIY1izho/w-d-xo.html
dahbee, not duhbee
:)
😎
To this day, I still call Bluchers,
"Insurance Man Shoes". Why? Growing up as a kid, the only time I EVER recall seeing these shoes was once a month, when the representative from the life insurance company my mom had, would come by the house to collect the monthly payment. He would take mom's money, tear this little receipt from his huge, overstuffed payment book and the walk away. It wasn't always the same guy , but no matter who the actual guy was that came to collect the money, it was a CERTAINTY that he would have on a pair of these. Back then I thought this style of shoe was the ugliest thing on the planet and I hated them!
Fast forward numerous decades and I don't mind them so much........I still don't own a pair though. I guess it's still too traumatic for me seeing these old guy always coming to my house "taking" my mom's money.........taking the money she could've used to buy me and my brother some new toys!! 😆 😆 😂 😂
OH by the way, GREAT video by the way .....very informative.