That’s a good tip, I’ll pin your comment and hopefully it can help someone else who wants to do this mod for practically free if they own the GoPro mounting bolt already
Not only did I learn about the idle screw mod, I now use zip ties or tywraps to remove the springs holding the expansion chamber in place. Thanks very much!
Can confirm this works. Used acetone first. Left the soldering iron for around 30 mins. Had to buy a Allen with a handle attachment to create more torque to turn it. Thanks heaps my man🤘
Great video. Thanks. I did this yesterday…smooth as butter. Only thing I did different is use some acetone on the grub screw first. Soaked it in the threads. Then dried it off. Used a soldering iron right on the grub screw. 6 minutes straight. Then slowly worked the torx key. It was hard at first, but got progressively easier….
I've done this mod for several TPI bikes using the Tokyo Offroad/Slavens method of removing the throttle body. I came across this video and gave this method a try, hoping to save time and effort. I'm not trying to say that this method is wrong, I just found it to be impossible to accomplish and wound up removing the TB anyway. My challenges were: #1. Not being able to find the hole (that's what she said?) and #2, when I was able to stab it in through (literally) blind luck, making 1/32 turns at a time sore me out In summary, IMHO doing less work doesn't mean saving time. Well done video, though, and I appreciate a TH-cam videographer that actually gets right to the point.
thanks for the comment mate! this video wasn't really intended as a "more efficient way" it was more of a video for people who want to do this modification, but aren't as mechanically confident and prefer to take the slower, less intimidating route. Even if it only helps a couple of people, I'm happy.
Nice! Got this to work with a cheap plug-in soldering iron in about 35 mins. Toughest part was manipulating the Allen wrench, but used needle nosed vice grips to put force on the Allen key and Bob’s your uncle!
Great advice, it worked well. Need to be a little bit patient with heating but waaay faster and easier than removing the throttle body. Thank you for the video, very, very helpful. 🥳
Tried this today. Used my soldering iron rated to 400deg C. Didn’t budge. Tried soaking with brake cleaner, penetrol etc. didn’t budge. Added another soldering iron so top and bottom. Didn’t budge 😂. Tried heating the side with a portable mini butane torch (used for heat shrink) - I thought this would get it … didn’t budge. Gave up and went to removing the throttle body. Heated the side of the body with bigger butane torch .. didn’t budge. WTF 😢😂😂. Kept heating. And heating. Still won’t budge. My throttle body is now just about to burst into flames, finally it just undoes. I must have got the Loctite 1000 ultra from the factory or something. If you are going to do this definately try the technique this guy shows, if you get lucky you save so much extra work ( remove throttle cables, oil delivery line, loosen sub frame, remove throttle body, set fire to throttle body, reattach, look for dongle, keep looking, prime oil pump, the list goes on) If you get unlucky like me and have a really tough one, keep heating a bit at a time and turn Allen key at same time. I was about to give up at one stage fearing I was going to strip the Allen ( I put full force into it at one stage and twisted my Allen key permanently) it will eventually come loose with enough heat you don’t need to break it loose, just keep adding more heat a bit at a time while keeping a constant force on your best quality Allen ( mine was a good t bar - was). I hope you get lucky.
Gonna try this on Thur. I had not got around to swapping out my mod screw, but this seems to be a simple way to get it done. Will let you know how it works out!
I tried this yesterday. Used a soldering iron and then a knobby knife. Neither worked. I don't think they generated enough heat. Not sure what your iron's heat output is compared to mine. Ended up taking off the throttle body. It was quick using propane. I like your approach. Just didn't have enough heat with my irons. So in the end, my approach was not easy plus additional wasted time waiting for the iron to not work.
possibly, I don't know the stats of my soldering iron but I left it on there for quite sometime, it's hard to give a good estimate of time that the soldering iron should be in contact with the housing, because everyones soldering iron is different. thanks for watching
@@jackkellybuilds It was over ten minutes and then added more heat when I switched to the knobby knife. Your idea is great. I just want other guys to be aware. Thanks for posting.
Currently trying this it simply will not budge! I don’t have a soldering iron so been using de bonder and leaving several hours in between each attempt I’ve also using heat but I don’t have strong enough flame, it’s currently -2 in my garage in the uk probably didn’t help! I’m worried I’ve rounded it off so removing the full throttle body tomorrow 😢
@@jackkellybuilds it removes any lock tight or bonding material but it didn’t work like some said it would. I wasn’t able to get a soldering iron in time for the weekends ride so had to remove the TB in the end and use a serious amount of heat mine was locked solid. Thanks for the vid, it helped :)
Hi Jack Kelly Builds, my 2022 ktm revs too high when using the clutch, so i guess i need to just turn in clockwise the big main idle (air?) screw (to top left and external to the black plastic body, and with flathead screw driver)... but what is the benefit of doing the change you propose to the (fuel?) idle screw within the body? Bit confused why alot of folks do this mod? Appreciate any input, thanks
Sorry to hear it didn’t work for you, my soldering iron is electrical. There seems to be a large variance in everyone’s soldering irons heat capabilities, as this works for a lot of people, but not for everyone.
I hope it worked out for you in the end. some people have success with this way, others don't, I suspect there are difference in how hot everyones soldering iron is able to get, and also people patience as it takes a while for the heat to transfer, but 40 mins sounds like a long time, so maybe your issue is the iron doesn't get hot enough?
@@rtimetoride7645 2.5mm t handle allen..you may have to grind it shorter like I did..Also I used a Wagner mini heat gun to heat up the metal around the screw..Worked Great..30 minute job when you don't have to take throttle body off!
@@jackkellybuilds is the idle the choke just when bike is running and pull throttle back it bogs and pull choke it it doesn’t run faster it dies can u help
I wouldn't expect everyone to own a soldering iron, but this video just shows an alternate way to do it. some people may find removing the throttle body a little more intimidating if they aren't very mechanically confident.
Another handy tip is the screw is the same size/thread as a GoPro accessory mounting bolt. Makes it a cheap mod too.
That’s a good tip, I’ll pin your comment and hopefully it can help someone else who wants to do this mod for practically free if they own the GoPro mounting bolt already
This is goated Im going to try tomorrow !
Not only did I learn about the idle screw mod, I now use zip ties or tywraps to remove the springs holding the expansion chamber in place. Thanks very much!
I now have the correct tool but the zip ties worked great
Can confirm this works. Used acetone first. Left the soldering iron for around 30 mins. Had to buy a Allen with a handle attachment to create more torque to turn it. Thanks heaps my man🤘
Glad it worked for you, acetone is a good tip also!
which soldering iron did you use? a gas soldering iron
Great video. Thanks. I did this yesterday…smooth as butter.
Only thing I did different is use some acetone on the grub screw first. Soaked it in the threads. Then dried it off. Used a soldering iron right on the grub screw. 6 minutes straight. Then slowly worked the torx key. It was hard at first, but got progressively easier….
glad to hear it worked for you
I've done this mod for several TPI bikes using the Tokyo Offroad/Slavens method of removing the throttle body. I came across this video and gave this method a try, hoping to save time and effort.
I'm not trying to say that this method is wrong, I just found it to be impossible to accomplish and wound up removing the TB anyway. My challenges were:
#1. Not being able to find the hole (that's what she said?) and
#2, when I was able to stab it in through (literally) blind luck, making 1/32 turns at a time sore me out
In summary, IMHO doing less work doesn't mean saving time.
Well done video, though, and I appreciate a TH-cam videographer that actually gets right to the point.
thanks for the comment mate! this video wasn't really intended as a "more efficient way" it was more of a video for people who want to do this modification, but aren't as mechanically confident and prefer to take the slower, less intimidating route. Even if it only helps a couple of people, I'm happy.
Nice! Got this to work with a cheap plug-in soldering iron in about 35 mins. Toughest part was manipulating the Allen wrench, but used needle nosed vice grips to put force on the Allen key and Bob’s your uncle!
glad to hear it worked out for you!
Erin was frustrated with the amount of time it took and wanted to quit but good thing I was there and kept going…it ended up working. Thanks.!
glad it was helpful!
Great advice, it worked well. Need to be a little bit patient with heating but waaay faster and easier than removing the throttle body. Thank you for the video, very, very helpful. 🥳
im glad it worked for you!
I had no need to watch this but I’m so glad I did because now I know I can use zip ties on the header pipe springs 😂👌🏼 very helpful
hahaha not a bad little trick aye
Just did the mod today. My soldering rod wasn't powerfull enough. So used a small blowpipe instead. Worked nicely.
Thanks for your hints and vid 😃👍👍
Nice!
Did you use the small blow pipe while the throttle body was still on?
Yup. Tried to heaten it up in relatively short bits.
My friends said I should have an extinguisher at hand....
Haha yeah probably not a bad idea hey😂
Worked as described, straightforward on my 2023 exc. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Tried this today. Used my soldering iron rated to 400deg C. Didn’t budge. Tried soaking with brake cleaner, penetrol etc. didn’t budge. Added another soldering iron so top and bottom. Didn’t budge 😂. Tried heating the side with a portable mini butane torch (used for heat shrink) - I thought this would get it … didn’t budge. Gave up and went to removing the throttle body. Heated the side of the body with bigger butane torch .. didn’t budge. WTF 😢😂😂. Kept heating. And heating. Still won’t budge. My throttle body is now just about to burst into flames, finally it just undoes. I must have got the Loctite 1000 ultra from the factory or something. If you are going to do this definately try the technique this guy shows, if you get lucky you save so much extra work ( remove throttle cables, oil delivery line, loosen sub frame, remove throttle body, set fire to throttle body, reattach, look for dongle, keep looking, prime oil pump, the list goes on)
If you get unlucky like me and have a really tough one, keep heating a bit at a time and turn Allen key at same time. I was about to give up at one stage fearing I was going to strip the Allen ( I put full force into it at one stage and twisted my Allen key permanently) it will eventually come loose with enough heat you don’t need to break it loose, just keep adding more heat a bit at a time while keeping a constant force on your best quality Allen ( mine was a good t bar - was).
I hope you get lucky.
Hahah sorry to hear this method didn’t work for you, someone must have swapped in the red loctite for your throttle body.
Gonna try this on Thur. I had not got around to swapping out my mod screw, but this seems to be a simple way to get it done. Will let you know how it works out!
how did you go? did it work for you?
Oh yes it works fine. Done it today in less an hour.
Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Zip ties on the pipe springs! That's just great info.
Glad it was helpful!
@@jackkellybuilds literally just did it!
I found that hack a few years ago and it is a great hack!
Hell Yeah... the soldering iron! great idea!!!
Thanks 👍
You just saved me a couple hours of work, thank you.
Glad I could help!
I tried this yesterday. Used a soldering iron and then a knobby knife. Neither worked. I don't think they generated enough heat. Not sure what your iron's heat output is compared to mine. Ended up taking off the throttle body. It was quick using propane. I like your approach. Just didn't have enough heat with my irons. So in the end, my approach was not easy plus additional wasted time waiting for the iron to not work.
possibly, I don't know the stats of my soldering iron but I left it on there for quite sometime, it's hard to give a good estimate of time that the soldering iron should be in contact with the housing, because everyones soldering iron is different. thanks for watching
@@jackkellybuilds It was over ten minutes and then added more heat when I switched to the knobby knife. Your idea is great. I just want other guys to be aware. Thanks for posting.
Currently trying this it simply will not budge! I don’t have a soldering iron so been using de bonder and leaving several hours in between each attempt I’ve also using heat but I don’t have strong enough flame, it’s currently -2 in my garage in the uk probably didn’t help! I’m worried I’ve rounded it off so removing the full throttle body tomorrow 😢
I’m not sure what de-bonder is. But this method works best with a soldering iron
@@jackkellybuilds it removes any lock tight or bonding material but it didn’t work like some said it would. I wasn’t able to get a soldering iron in time for the weekends ride so had to remove the TB in the end and use a serious amount of heat mine was locked solid. Thanks for the vid, it helped :)
Thanks exactly what I was looking for
hopefully it worked out for you!
Hi Jack Kelly Builds, my 2022 ktm revs too high when using the clutch, so i guess i need to just turn in clockwise the big main idle (air?) screw (to top left and external to the black plastic body, and with flathead screw driver)... but what is the benefit of doing the change you propose to the (fuel?) idle screw within the body? Bit confused why alot of folks do this mod? Appreciate any input, thanks
This is a very nifty way to do it. I always fight trying to get the boots back on the throttle body.
Thanks mate!
Great video! If you’re following this method, do you still need to bleed air from the oil pump/oil line?
No you will not need to, as the oil line stays connected
Hi jack, can u tell me where u got the new idle scew from ? Tks
from a company called "two stroke performance"
What wattage of heat gun did you use? I seem to not be getting the screw hot enough for the loctite to melt.
I have no idea the wattage, I used a 12v cordless Milwaukee soldering iron
Ah just looked it up. Bad boy gets up to 750F.
pretty hot!
I held the soldering iron on it for 20 minutes but no chance, the screw won't come loose
Do you have a gas soldering iron?
Sorry to hear it didn’t work for you, my soldering iron is electrical. There seems to be a large variance in everyone’s soldering irons heat capabilities, as this works for a lot of people, but not for everyone.
Should the air screw be fully closed after that?
I actually don’t know the answer to that sorry
I’ve tried this 4 times with 3 different irons. Now I’m trying with 2 at the same time. Been working at this for 40 minutes. I’m about to give up. Ugh
I hope it worked out for you in the end. some people have success with this way, others don't, I suspect there are difference in how hot everyones soldering iron is able to get, and also people patience as it takes a while for the heat to transfer, but 40 mins sounds like a long time, so maybe your issue is the iron doesn't get hot enough?
Hi Jack..Can you tell us what size Allen Wrench is needed t remove Factory Screw?
2.5 mm allen. Some older tpi models used torx screws also though
@@matt2437 Thank You! I have 22 ec300 like you
2.5mm Allen key as matt said
@@rtimetoride7645 2.5mm t handle allen..you may have to grind it shorter like I did..Also I used a Wagner mini heat gun to heat up the metal around the screw..Worked Great..30 minute job when you don't have to take throttle body off!
Hi is it the same for 4stroke
not necessary on 4 strokes as they already have an idle adjustment knob from factory
@@jackkellybuilds is the idle the choke just when bike is running and pull throttle back it bogs and pull choke it it doesn’t run faster it dies can u help
Your heat gun is not a simple tool
I wouldn't expect everyone to own a soldering iron, but this video just shows an alternate way to do it. some people may find removing the throttle body a little more intimidating if they aren't very mechanically confident.