Huge thanks for this video. Everyone else just breezes through the removal of the throttle body, which is the most involved part and has the most potential for costly mistakes. 👏
Thanks for your VERY helpful video, Steve! I installed an idle screw on my '23 KTM 300XCW and although it took me 4.5 hrs to do it (slow learner), it was relatively easy and now I have an adjustable idle screw -- as the bike should be. This is my first 2-stroke motorcycle -- have only owned it 6 weeks -- and prior to watching your vid, I didn't even know how to take the seat off. So... learning curve. Anyway now I've not only got an adjustable idle screw, I'm also much more confident about taking my bike apart and putting it back together for service as needed. THANK YOU SO MUCH for making a really thorough video that was so thorough that even a rank beginner like me can feel comfortable taking such a project on. Though I admit I was terrified while heating my throttle body up to remove the stock screw. Whatever -- it worked perfectly.
Great video. I just got my TSP kit and am installing mine. I really struggled getting the airbox boot off the throttle body. I'm not sure if it's because it's cold here or what. I gouged up my throttle body trying to get a screw driver in to help it off. I was going to rip the boot right out of my airbox I was using so much force and it still wouldn't come off. My suggestion is don't even think about using a screw driver. What I found was MUCH easier is to loosen the clamp at the reed block. Pull up the sub-frame up and the throttle body will easily pull out of the reed block. Now you can twist, and tilt the throttle body to the side which will make is MUCH easier to get it out of the airbox boot (no screw driver!). There is a sharp little lip on the throttle body that makes pulling it straight out very difficult. So this way makes it way easier and save you an hour of swearing.
This was a great video I used it comprehensively today. So well made, really helpful for a newbie like me. Only thing I found was on my bike the wake up dongle wouldn’t prime until I reattached the fuel tank pump connector. Not sure if I maybe didn’t hold the throttle open long enough though I did try it several times, I reattach the fuel tank and it worked Also my throttle cables were seized onto the 10mm nuts so when I undid the they must have thrown out the adjusters at the top of the cables. This really had me perplexed for a while. Make sure your 10mm nuts are not seized to the outer sheath I would say spray them with some WD40 before undoing them. Again thanks for this great video. Getting the throttle body out without lifting the sub frame is pretty much impossible ( I know), your tips were just the tricks needed 👍👍👍
OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing. I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. (So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temperature.
Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way. After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember!!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change. That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw, which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly.
Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike. The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw! Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it. I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store (I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything. If you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!
Soy bastante novato en este tema de desmontar todas las partes de mi husky, lo aprecio como terapéutico jaja , acabo de leer tu comentario y claramente voy a intentar con tu comentario jaja . Podrían indicarme el tornillo regulador de aire donde debería estar colocado ? Porque no me ha quedado claro si es completamente CERRADO
Great Video! This is the only one I could find that goes through the whole process! I haven't removed the throttle body before so this was helpful! About to start this job now, wish me luck!
Excellent video. For those without a blow torch, I used a few drops of super glue debonder to loosen up the loctite holding the throttle body grub screw. Grub screw came out easily.
I tried the debonder for 3 days, and put a soldering iron on mine to heat the Loctite, and still ended up stripping the bolt. Wish it were that easy on mine, but unfortunately it wasn't. It's sad that these bikes aren't allowed to come with the needed adjustment screw.
Thank you for this. Just installed an idle screw in my 2019 KTM 300. Was having troubles with idling, and wanted to use the bypass screw to adjust mixture at idle. Was running fairly lean to get the rpm for tickover. Running much better now, and followed most of your instructions to a T. Really grateful, thank you very much.
Thanks for this, very helpful. I did it without removing the pipe, just a bit fiddly. I found with the plate covering the throttle cables was hard to separate and I didn't want to force anything so I pushed it at the top from the left side with a screwdriver. Cheers
Thanks for the video. Once you have the new idle screw in, what is the usual fix? Do you increase the space to more than 4.5mm or less? I assume you try to keep the air screw at factory setting, and then just turn the idle screw in or out? If idle was too low, does that mean you turn it in to increase to 5mm or more?
There is no usual fix. The idle screw mod just gives the rider the ability to have independent air mixture and idle adjustments. The air screw does not need to be fixed to factory settings. It should be adjusted to achieve the optimum off idle throttle response. The air screw has very little affect past 1/4 throttle. Turning the air screw in is a richer softer delviery. Turning it out is a leaner more crispy setting. For a typical TPI, 2020 and newer, 3.5 turns out is a good baseline. For 2018-2019, 1 turn out is a good baseline. Once you have the manual idle screw installed, get the motor up to normal operating temp, and adjust the idle screw in very small increments, 1/16th of a turn at a time, with gentle blips of the throttle in between each adjustment. The goal is to achieve as low of an idle as possible while maintaing a smooth and rhythmic idle. No stumbling or stalling. If you adjust the idle screw too far in or too far out, the ECU will thorw a fault code letting you know the TPS voltage is outside of the desired range. Turning the idle screw in wil lincrease the idle speed and increase the TPS voltage. Backing the idle screw out will lower the idle speed and lower the TPS voltage.
On my 2020 300xc its was a torqx, on the gasgas 2021 300ec it was 2.5mm hex, my second time around was quicker BTW you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe plenty room from the other side, remove the cover and cables after you get the throttle body out of the boots. Save $ source your own screw, specs 50mm long, 5mm x 0.8 pitch metric screw, plus you need approx 3/4" long spring. Tip spray WD40 in the boots to help them come off much easier
Good information. At 12:00 I started wondering if clipping off the plastic was necessary. Couldn't you put the plastic cover on first and then feed the idle screw through the new hole? Setting the 4.5mm gap would be a little more tricky, I guess.
Thank you so much for the detailed video. It really helped me a lot installing the idle screw in my 2021 300 xc-w. It's unreal how hot you have to get the throttle body to remove the grub screw, I was really concerned I may have hurt something in the throttle body by getting it that hot. But my bike runs fine now that it's all back together so it all worked out. How do you recommend setting the air screw and idle screw? Stock setting was 2 3/4 turns out on the air screw. I found that 1 1/2 turns out gave me good responsiveness, really good low down grunt, and no pipe bang. Turning the screw in more just resulted in pipe bang and mild bogging or slightly less responsiveness, and I didn't try turning the air screw out any more than it was from the factory.
Set the air screw for best overall off idle throttle response. Every bike is a little different. Sounds like you found the sweet spot for your bike. We have a video on how to adjust the idle by measure voltage off the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Set it at 590 - 600 mv.
One of the benefits of a proper idle screw is that you can use the bypass adjuster to change the mixture on idle/low rpm. Allows for better pickup from idle.
Great video , but question So I got the factory Loctited idle allen screw out , but after removing it the throttle mechanism didnt move towards the stop , it stayed at 4.57 mm the exact measurement I got before I removed the factory allen screw, Seems a little odd?
Very odd. Have done hundreds of these and the stop plate always rotates back a bit when removing the set screw. Not much though. There is definitely still a gap. Install the manual idle screw and set the voltage at 600mv, and see what happens.
Watched your video and installed the idle screw but I had previously adjusted the air screw. Do you know what the factory setting was on a 2021 KTM 300 XCW on the air screw?
All of our bikes are tuned with the TSP Power Kit. We run the air screws between 2.0 and 3.0 turns out on our 2020 and 2021 bikes. Further in on the older TPI's. The stock maps are lean and it's best to turn the air screw in as far as you can but still have a decent off idle throttle response. The air screw only affect idle to about 1/4 throttle.
You may have forgot to connect your fuel line? Try disconnecting it and reconnect it making sure you hear a loud clicking sound to ensure it's fully connected. Also be sure the TPS electrical connection is fully seated.
Not sure if you got it off yet, but someone else commented and said to loosen the reed side clamp first and the throttle body comes off very easily. Then you are able to wiggle it and get it off of the air boot side. Wayyy easier.
Loosen both TB boot clamps. Lift the subframe up and the TB will pull off the intake/reed side easily. Rotate the TB 90 degrees. Easiest way to get it off the air boot side is to use the back side of the frame rail to leverage the throttle body out laterally. This will cause it to pop off the air boot side more easily.
This post is golden! I have been searching all over TH-cam for this information. I am stuck at the point of not being able to get the rear boot off the TB. Heading out to the garage now to give this a shot. Thank you.
After doing so many of these, I take a slightly different approach now when removing the throttle body. I loosen the front air boot, and let the throttle body rotate up with the sub frame. Then I use a Motion Pro hose removal tool to brake the seal of the rear air boot and throttle body, and I torque the throttle body laterally off the rear air boot. Much easier than trying to pull it straight off. It can be a bugger.
@@sbmotoperformance thanks, it's out now with no tool! Like you say, rotate 1/4 with cable down and sensor up, block the subframe with something between rear wheel and subframe so you have some tension..and jiggle with bare hands..
I have the idle screw sitting in my tool box for my 2020, but haven’t done it yet. Is there ANYTHING that this will mess up or could mess up? I guess as long as I put the gap back the way it was set from the factory I should be good. I’ve heard it could possibly cause starting issues.
Huge thanks for this video. Everyone else just breezes through the removal of the throttle body, which is the most involved part and has the most potential for costly mistakes. 👏
Thanks for your VERY helpful video, Steve! I installed an idle screw on my '23 KTM 300XCW and although it took me 4.5 hrs to do it (slow learner), it was relatively easy and now I have an adjustable idle screw -- as the bike should be. This is my first 2-stroke motorcycle -- have only owned it 6 weeks -- and prior to watching your vid, I didn't even know how to take the seat off. So... learning curve. Anyway now I've not only got an adjustable idle screw, I'm also much more confident about taking my bike apart and putting it back together for service as needed. THANK YOU SO MUCH for making a really thorough video that was so thorough that even a rank beginner like me can feel comfortable taking such a project on. Though I admit I was terrified while heating my throttle body up to remove the stock screw. Whatever -- it worked perfectly.
We really appreciate these videos Steve! Very easy to follow your step by step instructions.
This the most detail idle screw installation I watched thanks !
Great video. I just got my TSP kit and am installing mine. I really struggled getting the airbox boot off the throttle body. I'm not sure if it's because it's cold here or what. I gouged up my throttle body trying to get a screw driver in to help it off. I was going to rip the boot right out of my airbox I was using so much force and it still wouldn't come off. My suggestion is don't even think about using a screw driver. What I found was MUCH easier is to loosen the clamp at the reed block. Pull up the sub-frame up and the throttle body will easily pull out of the reed block. Now you can twist, and tilt the throttle body to the side which will make is MUCH easier to get it out of the airbox boot (no screw driver!). There is a sharp little lip on the throttle body that makes pulling it straight out very difficult. So this way makes it way easier and save you an hour of swearing.
You are absolutely right Doc. This is exactly how we do it now after coming to the same conclusion you did.
Wish I got your comment some months ago. Yes, I had hard time to detach the boot too...
Best instruction video for first timers! Thank you!
This was a great video I used it comprehensively today. So well made, really helpful for a newbie like me. Only thing I found was on my bike the wake up dongle wouldn’t prime until I reattached the fuel tank pump connector. Not sure if I maybe didn’t hold the throttle open long enough though I did try it several times, I reattach the fuel tank and it worked
Also my throttle cables were seized onto the 10mm nuts so when I undid the they must have thrown out the adjusters at the top of the cables. This really had me perplexed for a while. Make sure your 10mm nuts are not seized to the outer sheath I would say spray them with some WD40 before undoing them. Again thanks for this great video. Getting the throttle body out without lifting the sub frame is pretty much impossible ( I know), your tips were just the tricks needed 👍👍👍
OK now this is the LAZY BOY option. I didn't want to tear my brand new 2 week old 2021 Husky 300 TPI down so this is what I did. First I removed the single retaining screw and popped off the throttle cover (I did not need to remove the exhaust to do this, I just GENTLY pushed it from the OTHER SIDE on it's edge at the top with a broad bladed screw driver and it popped off). Secondly I could see the blue Locktite on the screw and I sprayed it 4 times with ordinary DISC BRAKE CLEANER, 30 minutes apart, and left it overnight. Next day all visible blue Loctite was gone, an encouraging sign, but I knew that some would still be active in the threaded section of the housing.
I then removed a 2.5 Allen/hex from a folding bicycle Allen tool set which have those big loops at the end when you take them out of the set (the loop is critical for leverage, a standard Allen wrench will not work) I then fitted that to the idle screw and once in place, used a bigger Allen wrench handle through the loop in the 2.5 as a lever (any handy short lever would do just as well).Very slowly I kept pressure on it but TIGHTENING it, not UNDOING it. (So many people go wrong trying to loosen reluctant engine setting screws, tighten them first whenever it is possible because the wrench is being pushed in, much less chance of stripping the hex). Just as the 2.5 Allen started to twist a little under strain, it gradually turned the idle screw a fraction so I stopped and warmed the engine to full operating temperature.
Whilst doing that I plugged in my OB2 diagnostic unit (dirt cheap on Ebay but get the convertor plug made in England by Lonelec to connect to KTM/Husky) and via my mobile on the free OB2 App, watched the ECU rev count NOT the ENGINE rev count because that fluctuates too much on a 2 stroke, the ECU RPM count is the AVERAGE reading and THAT is the one to set your idle by if you have the choice to do so. It is easier to get the really fine adjustment on a 2 stroke this way. After much experimenting on my bike I found 1775 ECU RPM (easy number for you Yanks to remember!!) to be the optimum for my bike with the Air Bypass Screw totally SHUT. There is ZERO reason for using the air bypass screw, it is ONLY there because manufacturers cannot use any other method to adjust idle without effecting emissions. It is a total bodge because the TPS has not been moved so the ECU has not been 'informed' of a change.
That is why despite raising the idle speed you get 'flame outs". My bike used to do it all the time and always in the worst situations which caused me to fall off several times on steep hill climbs etc. The Air By Pass bodge works kind of OK on cars and even to some extent most 4 strokes but the 'work around' was never intended for high performance 2 strokes which have totally different "needs" to deliver optimum power delivery characteristics. Trust me, just screw the stupid POS Air By Pass SHUT and experiment with getting a perfect setting with the idle screw, which moves the TPS and 'informs' the ECU to adjust the mixture accordingly.
Your bike might vary on it's perfect RPM average but now mine pulls really cleanly off the bottom (quite critical on the RPM reading I found, higher or lower RPM settings were not optimum) and is NOW great at ultra low speed manoeuvres like "figure of 8" at walking pace, but also goes like a f**cking missile when cracked open. Honestly, it is like riding a totally different bike. The first time I gave it a whiff of throttle the front wheel came up so fast in a power wheelie that I nearly fell off, I just wasn't expecting that much sudden performance increase from fiddling with an idle screw! Lastly, remember to drill a little hole in the plastic cover before you put it back so you can adjust the Idle screw without removing it.
I will get around to replacing the Idle screw with a 5 X 50 mm next time I am in a hardware store (I am certainly not paying $35 for one! 10 cents and an old spring from a Beretta shotgun more like!) but for now I haven't bothered as I don't want to disturb my perfect setting and there seems to be enough Loctite still on the screw to prevent it unscrewing in service. i.e. the idle adjustment is quite stiff in both directions which is perfect. So guys, that is a lazy-arsed Brits way of achieving exactly the same result with 10 per cent of the effort. No heat, no rebooting the oil pump or anything.
If you do get it WRONG and strip the hex head you are no worse off because you were going to strip the entire bloody bike down anyway, in which case you can release the screw with a pair or pliers once you have melted the Loctite. Worth trying! Less hassle, more riding time!
Thanks for info!!
Soy bastante novato en este tema de desmontar todas las partes de mi husky, lo aprecio como terapéutico jaja , acabo de leer tu comentario y claramente voy a intentar con tu comentario jaja . Podrían indicarme el tornillo regulador de aire donde debería estar colocado ? Porque no me ha quedado claro si es completamente CERRADO
Great Video! This is the only one I could find that goes through the whole process! I haven't removed the throttle body before so this was helpful! About to start this job now, wish me luck!
Excellent video. For those without a blow torch, I used a few drops of super glue debonder to loosen up the loctite holding the throttle body grub screw. Grub screw came out easily.
I tried the debonder for 3 days, and put a soldering iron on mine to heat the Loctite, and still ended up stripping the bolt. Wish it were that easy on mine, but unfortunately it wasn't. It's sad that these bikes aren't allowed to come with the needed adjustment screw.
@@samb4577 what did you do to get it out after you stripped it?
Thank you for this. Just installed an idle screw in my 2019 KTM 300. Was having troubles with idling, and wanted to use the bypass screw to adjust mixture at idle. Was running fairly lean to get the rpm for tickover. Running much better now, and followed most of your instructions to a T.
Really grateful, thank you very much.
Thanks for this, very helpful. I did it without removing the pipe, just a bit fiddly. I found with the plate covering the throttle cables was hard to separate and I didn't want to force anything so I pushed it at the top from the left side with a screwdriver. Cheers
You edited out the hardest part… removing the airboot and I understand why
Great video. Very helpful. It's easier to remove the right side plastic than removing the the frame protector.
Very thorough explanation! Fantastic video!!
Hey! Nice video. Courious to hear about the air screw setup after the mod. Thanks
2018 and 2019 we recommend 0.5 to 1.5 turns out on the air screw. On 2020 and 2021 we like 2.0 - 3.0 turns out.
Brilliant helped me a lot thank you
Really good and clear information. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Once you have the new idle screw in, what is the usual fix? Do you increase the space to more than 4.5mm or less? I assume you try to keep the air screw at factory setting, and then just turn the idle screw in or out? If idle was too low, does that mean you turn it in to increase to 5mm or more?
There is no usual fix. The idle screw mod just gives the rider the ability to have independent air mixture and idle adjustments. The air screw does not need to be fixed to factory settings. It should be adjusted to achieve the optimum off idle throttle response. The air screw has very little affect past 1/4 throttle. Turning the air screw in is a richer softer delviery. Turning it out is a leaner more crispy setting. For a typical TPI, 2020 and newer, 3.5 turns out is a good baseline. For 2018-2019, 1 turn out is a good baseline. Once you have the manual idle screw installed, get the motor up to normal operating temp, and adjust the idle screw in very small increments, 1/16th of a turn at a time, with gentle blips of the throttle in between each adjustment. The goal is to achieve as low of an idle as possible while maintaing a smooth and rhythmic idle. No stumbling or stalling. If you adjust the idle screw too far in or too far out, the ECU will thorw a fault code letting you know the TPS voltage is outside of the desired range. Turning the idle screw in wil lincrease the idle speed and increase the TPS voltage. Backing the idle screw out will lower the idle speed and lower the TPS voltage.
@@sbmotoperformance This is exactly what i needed to know. Thanks!
On my 2020 300xc its was a torqx, on the gasgas 2021 300ec it was 2.5mm hex, my second time around was quicker BTW you do not need to remove the exhaust pipe plenty room from the other side, remove the cover and cables after you get the throttle body out of the boots. Save $ source your own screw, specs 50mm long, 5mm x 0.8 pitch metric screw, plus you need approx 3/4" long spring. Tip spray WD40 in the boots to help them come off much easier
Thanks Steve! Super helpful vid!!
Good information. At 12:00 I started wondering if clipping off the plastic was necessary. Couldn't you put the plastic cover on first and then feed the idle screw through the new hole? Setting the 4.5mm gap would be a little more tricky, I guess.
You would need both he idle screw and the spring to fit through the hole without making contact. I think it's easier to just clip the end out.
leve the throttle body on the bike n use a mini torch it will come right out after about 15- 30 seconds i have done this on many ktmsno problems
Thank you so much for the detailed video. It really helped me a lot installing the idle screw in my 2021 300 xc-w. It's unreal how hot you have to get the throttle body to remove the grub screw, I was really concerned I may have hurt something in the throttle body by getting it that hot. But my bike runs fine now that it's all back together so it all worked out.
How do you recommend setting the air screw and idle screw? Stock setting was 2 3/4 turns out on the air screw. I found that 1 1/2 turns out gave me good responsiveness, really good low down grunt, and no pipe bang. Turning the screw in more just resulted in pipe bang and mild bogging or slightly less responsiveness, and I didn't try turning the air screw out any more than it was from the factory.
Set the air screw for best overall off idle throttle response. Every bike is a little different. Sounds like you found the sweet spot for your bike. We have a video on how to adjust the idle by measure voltage off the Throttle Positioning Sensor. Set it at 590 - 600 mv.
@@sbmotoperformance awesome, I'll check out the video! Thanks for the response!
I just bought this kit and my bike has never had trouble idling. Do I need to install the idle screw or would I be okay with out it?
You can certainly try it without it. If you feel the idle needs to be adjusted, then we recommend installing the idle screw.
One of the benefits of a proper idle screw is that you can use the bypass adjuster to change the mixture on idle/low rpm. Allows for better pickup from idle.
@@Jadder88z I am having trouble understanding how to adjust the idle screw vs the air screw
Top video grazie 🙏
Great video , but question So I got the factory Loctited idle allen screw out , but after removing it the throttle mechanism didnt move towards the stop , it stayed at 4.57 mm the exact measurement I got before I removed the factory allen screw, Seems a little odd?
Very odd. Have done hundreds of these and the stop plate always rotates back a bit when removing the set screw. Not much though. There is definitely still a gap. Install the manual idle screw and set the voltage at 600mv, and see what happens.
@@sbmotoperformance starting to think I have a lemon my dongle didn’t do anything either 🙈
Watched your video and installed the idle screw but I had previously adjusted the air screw. Do you know what the factory setting was on a 2021 KTM 300 XCW on the air screw?
Factory setting on the air bypass screw vary, but we usually find them between 3.5 to 4.5 turns out from fully seated.
Super video merci
Need a video on how to adjust the air screw and idle screw .
Very confusing .....
So how many turns did you tune your air screw to after the mod?
All of our bikes are tuned with the TSP Power Kit. We run the air screws between 2.0 and 3.0 turns out on our 2020 and 2021 bikes. Further in on the older TPI's. The stock maps are lean and it's best to turn the air screw in as far as you can but still have a decent off idle throttle response. The air screw only affect idle to about 1/4 throttle.
Can i install similar screw in my classic 350 to reduce idle rpm.Will it affect engine in any kind possible
This mod is for the newer TPI two stroke models only.
@@sbmotoperformance my bike don't have any idle control screw,any solution to reduce the idle.Its a 4 stroke uce engine
@@sourabhpatidar5942 Sorry, we only specialize in 2 stroke motorcycle engines.
Nice video. I followed it very closely. However now the bike will not start. Currently charging my battery 😞 (2021 Husq TE300)
You may have forgot to connect your fuel line? Try disconnecting it and reconnect it making sure you hear a loud clicking sound to ensure it's fully connected. Also be sure the TPS electrical connection is fully seated.
@@sbmotoperformance that’s exactly what it was! I didn’t have the feul line clicked and it fired right up! Thanks for checking back!
I just can’t remove the back of the throttle body from the pipe. Any tips? It’s really stuck
Not sure if you got it off yet, but someone else commented and said to loosen the reed side clamp first and the throttle body comes off very easily. Then you are able to wiggle it and get it off of the air boot side. Wayyy easier.
Loosen both TB boot clamps. Lift the subframe up and the TB will pull off the intake/reed side easily. Rotate the TB 90 degrees. Easiest way to get it off the air boot side is to use the back side of the frame rail to leverage the throttle body out laterally. This will cause it to pop off the air boot side more easily.
Thanks for the help. It was super helpful and worked. ;)
This post is golden! I have been searching all over TH-cam for this information. I am stuck at the point of not being able to get the rear boot off the TB. Heading out to the garage now to give this a shot. Thank you.
The hardest part is with the airbox boot, not the screw.
After doing so many of these, I take a slightly different approach now when removing the throttle body. I loosen the front air boot, and let the throttle body rotate up with the sub frame. Then I use a Motion Pro hose removal tool to brake the seal of the rear air boot and throttle body, and I torque the throttle body laterally off the rear air boot. Much easier than trying to pull it straight off. It can be a bugger.
@@sbmotoperformance laterally, means front of throttle body to the clutch side or ignition side ? Because there is not much space laterally...
@@mihaidobrescu7430 Correct, but if you rotate the throttle 1/4 turn first, you will create more space.
@@sbmotoperformance thanks, it's out now with no tool! Like you say, rotate 1/4 with cable down and sensor up, block the subframe with something between rear wheel and subframe so you have some tension..and jiggle with bare hands..
I have the idle screw sitting in my tool box for my 2020, but haven’t done it yet. Is there ANYTHING that this will mess up or could mess up? I guess as long as I put the gap back the way it was set from the factory I should be good. I’ve heard it could possibly cause starting issues.
As long as you are careful with the heat, you'll be fine. Doc's suggestion on removing the throttle body is on point.
This is kinda doing too much for this mod .