Thanks Taco Mike! Just bought a 2022 KTM 350 EXC with only 200 miles on it. Bike was running super lean with flat spots on acceleration and constant popping on deceleration. In addition to an FMF muffler, smog delete, vented airbox cover, reed removal, O2 sensor delete, and more, the original owner altered the TPS baseline, setting it at .48 and .62 at idle. Using your video, and a TPS dongle that allowed me to reset the baseline to .40 and .52 at idle. I used JD Jetting Power Surge 6x adjustments and a new spark plug to give it some more fuel and the bike is a ROCKET. Wanted also to thank you for stocking all the parts needed to get the bike running perfect. Cheers!
Hi guys, nice video... For riders on a budget or they just don't buy into every item out there... You do not need these harnesses to check TPS voltage.. Although the harness is put in series the connections to read voltage are not. You are not interrupting the signal you are just reading the voltage ...all you need is a paperclip or long pin, etc pushed into the two lower connectors on TPS connector...2022 500 is black and yellow/orange..i used plastic covered and colored paper clips lubricated with a little dielectric grease which you can strip on the ends so they will not short if they touch... Hope this helps a few riders out...Joe Happy New Year .......
So I’ve just got a 2023 sx 125 with 10 hours on it, beautiful bike, but didn’t realize how advanced and different they are compared to older carb models and I’ll be honest was in two minds on keeping it as I thought you had to have special tps tools to set values. Watching this video has made me realize that I can do it using a volt meter and plug harness and now understand what things are. Fantastic video and I will now keep the bike and learn new techniques for running and tuning the bike. I plan on putting a HGS system on, so hopefully will be ok? Thanks for a great video and putting things into an easy to understand way.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I bought a practically brand new '23 350 excf this year that had a previous owner who only put 8 miles on the bike but for whatever reason decided to messed around with a bunch of settings. The intake reeds were partially dislodged and I've had a host of stalling/low end issues. Thanks to your videos I now have a legit roadmap to reset my bike back to a totally stock tps setting so I can reinstall the reeds and install the EJK and Pro Moto endcap you suggested for budget-aware single track riders.
Let me start by saying I appreciate all the videos. Very good and a great help With that said I have to comment on the TPS function and the result of adjustment that is higher than recommended. The fuel system on these bike are extremely simple compared to cars that use multiple sensors to control fuel under several conditions. Bikes typically have a few sensors. Air Temp usually in the air box, coolant temp and Map sensor. Off the top of my head I don’t recall the earlier EFI bikes having MAP sensors and only recently have I seen stock systems using an 02 sensors. (Bikes using 02 sensors have a more sophisticated computer and mapping system in that they make adjustments in smaller RPM increments or windows) That all said I wanted to speak to the comment that bumping the TPS voltage up results in a leaner condition. Mechanically that make no sense. With the throttle plate set to allow air in to achieve the specified idle and the TPS set to spec let’s say the Air Fuel ratio is 0 (not lean and not rich). As soon as you adjust the TPS voltage up and add fuel at idle you are also adding fuel as the throttle is opened because the TPS voltage window has been increased from the start. Fuel will be richer through the entire throttle sweep. With the exception of an 02 sensor which reads the actual mixture after burn and reports to the ECU so it can correct, these bike don’t have any sensors to tell the ECU otherwise other than coolant/ engine temp which is only really only prevalent when the motor is cold or hot outside the acceptable operating range. But under normal running temps the TPS is adding slightly more fuel thru the entire throttle sweep if it’s set to a higher voltage. So how can it be leaner?
I like how no one has responded to your point. I build 6 figure budget high end hot rods and land cruisers. I am very familiar with automotive fuel injection systems. Your explanation is spot on! Without an o2 sensor the engine will never fully know whether it is running too rich or lean. I like the in depth explanation of the inner workings of this throttle body but the information regarding this “Lean” issue also makes no sense to me. Anyone care to comment?
Can someone knowledgeable comment on this please I have a 2023 KTM 500 EXC and I have removed all the smog stuff and the O2 sensor and have a get ECU and I noticed that once the bike is warm the idle not only changes but hi I am getting a lot of deceleration popping and really jerky off throttle from closed to like just barley opening it it’s jumpy as hell I want to know how I can fix this correctly
I’d say that there’s no answer because there’s no money in it. If you can achieve a little more fuel by upping the voltage than why buy a tuner or piggy back? It obviously helps to up the voltage because hundreds of posts prove it does. Mike said that if two or more get you an answer online then there you have it. It’s not leaner up top when adding voltage. Probably richer. I have a temp gauge and after upping the voltage it runs cooler. Why? Probably getting more fuel.
@@MRGarsionithat is spot on, 20+ years in tuning here too, in this case the tps position regulates the afr, he is simply wrong by saying all you do with adjusting tps is opening the throttle like you do on high idle speed screw, it's not as one is mechanical and other is a sensor to sense the aperture of the throttle which then feeds the signal to the ecu and that one desides how much fuel innthat case needs to be sprayed in, plain and simple, if it had a wideband lambda sensor that would be a different matter but it doesn't so it purely relies on the tps setup matched with the written map in the ecu. And it's sensitive ! I've just played with mine and immediately I've noticed too much fuel ( bumped to 644 from std 522, I'll back it up to somewhere in the middle ).
Thank YOU! I’m a new sxf owner (2022) and was struggling to understand how the knobs correlated and worked. I was also going to set the tps to the .60-.64 people have been going on and on about. It didn’t really make sense to me because of it being a relative number based on the idle and choke variable. This makes perfect sense now. I built s little harness tonight snd look forward to having an easier starting bike in the morning.
I RESPECT YOUR EFFORD AND OPPINION !!! MY OPPINION IS THIS. The choke opens the throttle plate physically, the TPS does not open it, the TPS is sensor witch gives the information to the computer how open it is, the TPS just transfer information from the throttle plate to the computer. So by adjusting the TPS you trick the computer to think that the throttle plate is open more than it actually is and that makes the computer to let more fuel, but actually we did not touch the throttle plate position physically we just make the computer to think we did. The amount of air is the same because we did not open the throttle plate physically but the fuel is more because the computer think we did. EXAMPLE: Lets imagine that we have 1 amount of air and 1 amount of fuel as air fuel mixture. Than we make the computer to think that we have 1.5 amount of air by adjusting the TPS sensor ( 0.5 amount increase) but actually the throttle plate is on the same position and is still letting just 1 amount of air, witch makes the computer to let 1.5 amount of fuel while it actually has 1 amount of air. SITUATION 2: higher rpm We are half throttle open with value lets say 5 but we already made the computer to think that we have 0.5 amount increase in air witch is 5.5, so the computer let 5.5 amount of fuel to the mixture while actually has 5 amount of air. SO HOW ADJUSTING THE TPS MAKES THE MIXTURE LEAN IN HIGHER RPM ? HOW ADJUSTING THE TPS OPENS THE THROTTLE PLATE PHYSICALLY LIKE THE CHOKE DOES ? AND WHAT IS YOUR OPPINION ON MY LOGIC FOR TPS ADJUSTMENT? !!! MY OPPINION IS ABOUT A STOCK BIKE !!! SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH IT IS MY 3TH LANGUAGE. I AM EXITED TO READ YOUR ANSWER BECAUSE THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT WE MAY DO NOT KNOW.
You are correct. What I think mike tries to say is: Adjusting the tps on a bike with a closed loop map doesn’t work. Adjusting the tps on a bike with a open loop map is hard to do correctly. This is confusing so please give me money for a aftermarket ECU instead…
Best example in the internet. I'm doing my F150 Yamaha outboard with 2 throttle body's and this is SPOT ON great video... you know exactly what you're doing thanks for your support & knowledge.👍🇺🇲💯
7:10 correct, the TPS doesn't make changes to all parts of the fuel maps, only the low end and light throttle areas. The TPS adjustment can fix flame outs off idle. The reason is that the ecu swaps between the TPS and the MAP sensor to sense engine load. The MAP signal is rapidly fluctuating at idle and light throttle/low rpm on account of the short manifold and single cylinder intake pulses. The ecu can't get a stable reading to go off, so it switches to the TPS reading as a source for the engine load. Using the TPS for full load/high rpm reference is dangerous as it is not a good indicator of actual load on the engine (imagine 75% throttle at 7000rpm going uphill vs downhill, the fuel needs will be wildly different) So, the ecu uses the MAP signal in these ranges as it is a good indicator of actual load.
This is a good video, however! I understand these systems! I realized you were referring to a 2020 with an O2 sensor! That is a closed loop system! Some of the comments below people are talking about older models without a O2 sensor, open loop system! Those bikes can be ever so slightly tuned successfully Via TPS! A closed loop system like that 2020 the O2 sensor will always adjust and get the reading that the ECU mapping was programmed to achieve! I have a 2015 500 EXC and that throttle body is so different the new one is a better design I have issues with the older one that will not happen on the new throttle body. I love these tech videos I always pick up something new!
I have a 2019 500 exc-f, and I followed your recommendations and got the Fastway exhaust tip and the Dobeck EJK. It's been working really good so far. The EJK was the easiest thing to install. True plug and play. Thanks!!
I know who you referring to... i went down that track with my 127 350, it was a waste of time, made my bike worse on power, the TPS adjust is a load of crap!! thanks for the video, keep em coming :-)
There 4 or 5 sources of the tps hack, a few on thumper talk one or two on TH-cam and one or two on ktm talk. Not sure who benefits from the claims but it’s fools gold
Thanks Mike. I suspect my 450 was molested and doesn’t run correctly. I suspected the TPS, but I couldn’t find my TPS tool. I got it running decent, but this video confirms I need to dig it up and do a total reset.
Love the vids.. lots of info. One problem though. Changing the tps value by adjusting the tps in relation to the butterfly is totally different than using the fast idle screw to open the butterfly and tps together. The tps tells the ecu how far open the butterfly is so if the tps value is set higher when the butterfly is closed the ecu thinks the butterfly is opening which changes fuel ratio. Might help at idle but On a bike with an o2 and Map sensor once the bike is warm enough to go into closed loop and use the sensors to fine tune the fuel mapping fooling the ecu isn't beneficial.
You are SPOT ON and I was going to say the same. Most companies like to run open loop at idle especially when cold because the O2 sensor reading is not correct until fully warm. Also every single start is completely open loop fueling. So this is why modifying the TPS value improves start because it richens the mixture (similar to choke). Now why dont it come that rich from factory? (CARB and EPA). Now on bikes with an O2 sensor like the street legal EXC the O2 sensor along with the MAP sensor takes care of all the free flow intake/exhaust mods. You dont need a TPS tuning for exhaust mods. But you do need it to take advantage of Open loop starts and Idle until the O2 sensor picks up. Now there are bikes without the O2 sensor like the XC bikes or the MX bikes. Those definitely can work better when this is properly tuned and you can get an overall rich mixture throughout the rev range with this mod. So less knocking, less valve wear from heat and engine lives longer and loves that. Plus fewer flameouts. I like your videos but I gotta say not everything you said is correct. I hope you make another video that will fizx the issues.
It's wild that this video hasn't been taken down and redone, or at the very least corrected. There is SO much convoluted, conflicting, confusing information. I don't think it was intended to be confusing or misleading, but it sure could use cleaning up. I also wanted to comment on the "TPS Hack". It was my understanding that the pre-2016 bikes could be manipulated with a TPS adjustment, but 2017+ could not. That was the "truth" I settled on in early 2018 when I bought my '17, so I bought a Vortex. I've tried searching for information on the fueling strategy used and haven't found any good information. What I have found is info saying that MAP sensors were added at some point and the "TPS hack" works in low throttle situations. It amazes me that in all the comments below, there isn't one mention if these bikes run a speed density or alpha-N fueling strategy. If they are speed density, no, the TPS setting won't do anything. If they run alpha-N, yes, the TPS setting will do something. But what it sounds like to me is that up to 2016 they were exclusively alpha-N, and starting in 2017 they are using both. So, alpha-N at low throttle inputs because the MAP reading is unstable at idle and off-idle. Then, it transitions to speed density after a certain point, probably dictated by a number of parameters like RPM, throttle position, MAP reading, etc. So, in all likelihood, the "TPS hack" will make a difference in the alpha-N stage at idle and off-idle, but no difference when they system transitions to speed density. Therefore, as is the intended topic of this video, the "TPS hack" to account for not only the stock super-lean mapping but also the addition of modifications that really need more fuel DOESN'T WORK as intended. I don't know where folks heard "it will run leaner" with the "TPS hack". What he said is basically "you think you're fixing the lean condition with the TPS, but you're not, and the situation is even worse if you start adding free flowing exhausts, removing your reeds, etc." It's also crazy to me that people think with as much power and influence that the EPA has that their efforts to cut down emissions could be skirted with a simple tweak like that. It is SO BAD that anybody who can theoretically tune one of these ECU's won't touch them for fear of the legal consequences. You have to be in a secret society to get your stock ECU tuned, yeah, I'm real sure that can be skirted around by loosening two screws and tweaking a sensor. No way the EPA lets that feature get through, they won't even let you have a map switch, or even a connector to plug the switch into. I'd never buy one of these bikes used if they didn't have the ECU remapped in some way. They'd need a Vortex, GET, JD Tuner, or something similar to get the fuel where it needs to be for engine longevity. Running on the LEAN factory map that passes the strict emissions standards is a recipe for disaster.
Mike, thank you very much for this AWESOME video. I can assume that this is the same for 2023/2024 KTM 300-SX and XC, GasGas, Husqvarna....ect. If not, would you make a video Strickley for the 2023/2024 125, 250, 300...2-stroke bikes and if your TPS wire you make will work on these bikes as well or not? In addition, if you happen to make a separate detailed TPS video for 2023/2024 2-stroke bikes could you please include detail info 2023 and 2024 (I'm sure 2025 as well) 2-stroke """Electronic Power Valve""" setting as well, I'm sure it will be greatly appreciated by MANY people.
OK just to make sure I got this correct. Hook your voltage meter up. Counter clockwise the fast idle knob to get it out of the way. Counter clockwise the idle (red) knob so it is not touching or stops changing the voltage. IF that voltage number is NOT .40, loosen the TPS and move the TPS so it reads .40 on the meter. Tighten up the TPS. Run the idle knob so the voltage meter reads .53. Run the fast idle knob to when it changes while in the out position.
Great info. You state that .53 is not a spec but where the bike should be idling at 1800-1900 RPM. If the bike is not idling at 1800 at .53, would I adjust the TPS until it does? If I set idle via the idle knob, that opens the throttle plate which is not the same as adjusting the TPS sensor position. Thanks
Thanks for making this video, I picked up a sweet low hour 15 TE501(35hours), I saw a bald guys end cap on there, so I'll reset/check the TPS, and get a fuel controller!!
Great video, thanks for making it, lots of good info, makes perfect sense. Now for my questions. I was one of those guys that changed my tps position because of some serious decel pop after installing an fmf slip on my 16' ktm 500 exc. First question, is the 16' 500 stock tps setting also .53? Second question, if I reset my tps back to stock will a JD Jetting Power Surge fix my decel pop? I just recently picked one up cheap and haven't installed it. Thanks
Why didn't i watch this video before wasting 2 weeks of my life being convinced by forums that my bike is garbage without tuning the tps and buying a magical fuel rail? dang it..
Well done video. The 2017-2020 exc 500 runs just fine in stock form. Especially for those of us who live in the Midwest. If you want to spend money on improvements for your bike put it in the suspension you’d be better off
I really appreciate your video. Can’t thank you enough. My 2022 KTM 500 EXC-F kept shutting down when cold start was off. I’ve got 30 hours on the bike, love it. But, suddenly it wouldn’t go after cold start disengaged. This video fixed that problem. However, will I need to adjust something since now both the cold start yellow adjust is turned max clockwise and the red idle is turned max in? Is there something I’m missing? Do I need to adjust the TPS? Will this cause problems later or should I just run it with both turned all the way in? Thank you!
i might have missed it.. but if .40 is good when the red/yellow knobs are unscewed to there max, and you start to turn up the idle to 1800ish..then you said tps might end up at .60.. but if i get a vortex, and goto install it, do i leave the tps at .60/1800rpm, or do i readjust it to .53 ..whatever the 1800 rpm lands on is the tps spec? and the correct tps for a vortex/get? so 1800rpm is more important than the tps value?.. btw great video, with tons of info, im just a little confused! and going to look at a 2020 500 tomorrow!
Mike, a great all-around video. First, I am not advocating for the hack in any way (like you I think it should never be done) but to want to clear up something you say that is misleading. Multiple times you say that doing the hack is "the same as holding the throttle open at the high-idle setting". It's not. Rotating the sensor to get a higher voltage value CHANGES the relative mixture value at all throttle settings. If it were the same as setting the bike to high-idle, the bike would idle faster. Rotating the TPS sensor changes the mixture through the throttle range - it does not change idle speed in any way. It has nothing to do with high-idle position, etc. It may just happen to be that what you are setting the value to is close to the same value as your CURRENT high idle setting but as you even showed, the high-idle open position is highly adjustable by twisting the yellow knob. So, the "default" TPS value at high-idle will in fact have a widely variable range depending on what a given rider sets that value to. We fully agree that changing the TPS to a higher value will add more fuel across the throttle range but will not do it in the correct amount so it's a futile attempt as fixing a problem.
As usual Mike great video and it should be posted on so many KTM EXC forums. Also is it fair to say that turning the yellow knob all the way OUT and only playing once with the red idle knob is the way to go? I had some sporadic high revving times with my KTM 500 at times (when bike was hot) and turned the yellow knob all the way out and never had that weird issue anymore. I also never had to use the yellow knob for cold start...i guess what i am trying to say is why a yellow knob KTM why?
I think following the vid is best practices. Turn the yellow all the way out, set the idle then set the yellow. Some bikes in some conditions need the fast start knob
@@TACOMOTOCO Thanks Mike. Just a thought...why not trying to have that guy Aaron on your next live video? 140,000km and 1400h world tour on a 500 EXC could be epic talking about maintenance...etc His thread on advrider advrider.com/f/threads/new-zealand-rtw-and-back-on-a-ktm500exc.1181912/
@TACO MOTO CO Most companies like to run open loop at idle especially when cold because the O2 sensor reading is not correct until fully warm. Also every single start is completely open loop fueling. So this is why modifying the TPS value improves start because it richens the mixture (similar to choke). Now why dont it come that rich from factory? (CARB and EPA). Now on bikes with an O2 sensor like the street legal EXC the O2 sensor along with the MAP sensor takes care of all the free flow intake/exhaust mods. You dont need a TPS tuning for exhaust mods. But you do need it to take advantage of Open loop starts and Idle until the O2 sensor picks up. Now there are bikes without the O2 sensor like the XC bikes or the MX bikes. Those definitely can work better when this is properly tuned and you can get an overall rich mixture throughout the rev range with this mod. So less knocking, less valve wear from heat and engine lives longer and loves that. Plus fewer flameouts. I like your videos but I gotta say not everything you said is correct. I hope you make another video that will fizx the issues.
We don’t say that TPS tuning will fuel exhaust or intake mods in fact we say it very often very publicly that it won’t. A tps hack is not a tune. I wish it was true what you say about the o2 bikes compensating for air flow mods but testing by us and other shops time and time again show that not to be the case.
@@TACOMOTOCO Well that is the whole point of the O2 sensor to compensate BUT that compensation usually tops out at a certain percentage. So let's say the company knows that typical airflow variation from engine to engine is 5 percentage then they will limit the O2/Fuel adaptions to 5 percentage. If the mods increase airflow by 10 percent then the fuel air ratio is off and we will be running 5 percentage lean. TPS tuning or hack will indeed affect the overall fueling on a bike with no feedback mechanism like the closed circuit bikes. So this is a good hack to have if one knows what they are doing and dont want to spend big on custom ECUs
As a matter of fact I have a Husaberg FX450 and a Husqvarna FC350. Both bikes are open loop because they aren't road legal and the TPS hack does wonders on how the bike runs overall. The effects on an EXC-F will be limited to starts, cold idle, etc
Tps hack is not a tune but is somewhat viable on the 12-16 gen bikes using the 32 bit ECU’s but with the release of the 64 bit boxes on the 17-19,gen enduro bikes it’s results are less productive and on the 20+ gen bikes will run terrible from it. If the 20+ US spec bikes running the locked EPA map allowed for enough fuel trim swing to accommodate any intake or exhaust mod then you’d essentially have an auto tune system and could install any mod remove any component and the bike or car would auto calibrate to cover the new air flow. Man I wish that was the case, how nice would that be. What would the point of a regulatory agency be if they allowed for auto compensation. Imagine being on a highway where the speed limit sign changed to match whatever speed you happened to be doing at the time. Or your overdrawn bank account recalibrated itself with enough available cash to cover each new purchase you were going to make. That sounds like an amazing world, one of for sure live to live in.
@@TACOMOTOCO as a matter of fact car ECU software already does this adjustment for airflow. They cap the max adaption to a value they feel comfortable enough. This js because they want to account for engine variations, cam chain stretch, air filter flow loss increase with age if filter, CAT or DPF clogging etc. Small mods are easily accepted within this range. For example if you install a lower backpressure exhaust you still dont get an engine check light come on on a car. This small change in airflow increase is been adapted out by the airflow and fuel adapts. Now throw in a tuned header and the change in flow exceeds the manufacturer allowed trim and it sets an engine check light. As long as the check light has not come on its safe to assume engine is aware of the increased flow and hence already making changes to fuel and spark to account for the increased flow. How do I know? I used to calibrate such vehicles for a living and do performance and drivability tests. So we know how the ECU works else we won't be able to set the parameters (spark, cams, fuel ratio etc). Yes fuel ratio too. Not every time does an ECU target stoich fuel air ratio. They target what ever ratio makes the lowest emissions
Vortex and pipe on my 17 exc 500.Sat three years when I bought it.Found the fuel injector to be clogged,fired up with new one,no need to push in the yellow knob,when warm the idle was high,I tried turning red knob,only sped up..turned the other way,until the red knob had the spring compressed all the way,idle still too high.Turned the yellow knob,two clicks and the rpm settled down nicely.Doubt the tps has ever been touched.
I sorta lost my way when adjusting my KTM 350 XCFW's idle settings. I need to get them back to stock and then go from there. 1. My intuition says turn the yellow (choke) knob out all the way first so that it's not affecting idle. 2. Then get the bike warmed up and then set idle (red) knob to 2000 rpm (per manual's recommended idle speed) 3. With the yellow knob so far out, it will no longer even do much in the way of a high idle and when pushed in it wont release when rolling the throttle grip forward 4. So from there I can start turning in the yellow (choke) knob in until at least the throttle grip can be trusted to roll forward and engage the release. 63 clicks out is max 38 clicks out (25 clicks in) is OEM I had to do 32 clicks out (31 clicks in) before the throttle grip release for the choke would engage Is this the best way to set all that stuff? As far as order of events?
In some models the yellow screw will not be there instead an Air screw and the separate choke piston will be there at the throttle body. In that case how to understand the role of this yellow screw that the shown here? The example is Royal Enfield Classic 500 2018 model.
I’m just taking a look at this piece on my bike. I have a 450 SXF that has been misfiring. It doesn’t need a valve clearance. The fuel pump is fine. The stator is fine but I’m thinking if the misfiring is happening because somethings tuned improperly with this throttle body piece. I would love to hear your thoughts.
I know my yellow knob has been tampered with. Probably the idle adjustmeny knob as well. I know because I screwed with it when my fuel filter got clogged and I didn't know what was going on. Is there any way that I can readjust it to factory specs without taking off the throttle body? I can pull the yellow knob down and turn it counterclockwise until it stops and then adjust my idle. Then do I turn the yellow knob clockwise until I feel slight resistance and it's set?
Your videos are great. I have a 19' 250 excf and the low end is really a bit disappointing compared to other opened up bikes I have ridden. I haven't made any adjustments and my budget is fairly low. I know you vouch for the piggyback and endcap as the first things to do. In your mind in order of importance what mods would you make to get this to really rip. Good stuff no BS videos. Love them
Suspension then power. The Dobeck is a good low cost tuner and does well. A replacement ecu will really wake that bike up. Take a look at a vortex or a GET🤘🏽
I appreciate this man, but I am totally turned off when people talk bad about the competition. I'm not taking a stand either way, because I don't have the tech knowledge. I would imagine though, that it would be hard as heck to sell those ridiculously expensive GET and Vortex tuners if people could just tune up thier bikes like this wouldn't it? When I first started racing Dave sent me his whole catalogue for free as a way, to sponsor me. I put in the big bottom kit, fuel rail, adjusted TPS, put in the larger clutch cover along with the clutch weight. All of it improved the way my bike ran as far as I could tell. By the way, that big clutch cover, and bar inserts save my bike and my butt on more than one occasion. The clutch cover is tough to put a hole in, and the bar inserts do a great job of protecting your levers, grips and throttle tube. Anyways, I'm no longer affiliated with him but, I always saw him as somebody who helps people, with less expensive alternatives. Not a snake oil salesmen. He is for sure a mad scientist, and very flakey as well, but for about a third of what your tuners cost, I got a performance increase I was happy with. Instead of telling me how bad he is, maybe tell me how the GET or vortex is so much better. So much so, that it is worth paying 10x more for. Thanks again, and I do appreciate what you do for the community, just turned off by the attitude towards a competitor.
What’s up my man. Thanks for the comment. Not sure I follow though, I don’t have anything to say about anyone, that’s not what I’m about. As I hope to be very clear here there’s a few points I’m making: *The red and yellow knobs are misunderstood *The tps ‘tune’ isn’t a tune *You can use a special voltage device to set tps value or a meter and the ecu. I don’t take a position really on either one. Both work well. *setting the rpm to spec is very important *some devices like the Vortex ecu require the tps value to be set to stock *over view of all the components. Thanks for watching my videos and if you think I swung and missed on any of those points I’d love to get your specific feedback.
@@TACOMOTOCO you know what. You are right. I think I am attributing the comments of others to you. You would think having a channel myself, I would know better. Sorry man. And again thanks for the work you do.
I just got a new Vortex, Euro Airbox without the Reed, and a brand new Yoshi exhaust. I’m literally just taking a break before putting the new pipe on. On the Vortex instructions it has a video showing how to recalibrate the TPS at both closed throttle and WFO. Hold the kill switch and turning over the starter for about 3 seconds in closed throttle, repeated again in WFO. My problem is I have an FE501S will an ON/OFF switch. In the OFF position the starter will not turn over. The Vortex I got came from a tuner with custom maps and they said I need to bring it in so they can hook it up to their laptop to recalibrate the TPS. They also said it needs to be recalibrated any time I readjust the idle speed just like you explained. Will your pigtail tool allow me to also set WFO calibration?
You are missing a vital part of the equation. The ecu is in idle position from .53v to about .64v. Anything above .65 it will read the main fuel map. I have the UST and see how all this ties with the ecu. My bike was .57v from factory and adjusted it to .60v and found my off idle was crisper as the ecu wasnt in idle mod when I broke the throttle thus adjusting the timing and fuel properly.
This is possibly the most relevant comment. If you're saying that up to .64 adjustment on the TPS is still within spec per KTM...than making that adjustment to eliminate flame outs, increase throttle response off idle, or any other symptom that is cured through it I don't think is fair to categorize as a "Hack".
Ok so....still confused. If one follows this procedure then what is the purpose of the tps sensor being adjustable? Why is it not fixed in place, unable to adjust right or left?
Excellent video I have a 18 500 excf did tps adjustment check engine light kept coming on and would run like crap got jd tuner all good now do you know spec for tps?
Hey Mike, my desmogged, reedless, FMF 4.1 (spark arrested), JD Tuner 2019 450EXC has a bit (300-400 rpms) of a hanging idle when I let off the gas and sort of an intermittent varying idle. I’ve adjusted the TPS perfectly to spec. I haven’t checked the fuel filters yet, as it only has 24hrs and I’m just digging into it. Any ideas on where to start beyond that? I anecdotally felt like the idle is better when I adjust the first fuel light a little leaner, but then I get decel pop. Any ideas on where to start would be much appreciated!
TACO MOTO CO thanks! But in my ‘19 KTM 350SXF service manual it has a idle spec of 2,250-2,350 RPM but doesn’t state anything regarding high idle spec. Any knowledge there?
Very instructional vid. I have the 2014 (BMW) husky te310r. No one will work on it. Open full pwr. Idle adj screw fell out. Adj tps to get back to camp before I found out the upper tb screw fell out. The enrichment knob is different on the kein. What TPS # should I be at with butterfly fully closed to get back to spec. I've set TPS at 680 with no idle screw contact,enrichment knob out at 43 as manual states and bike won't stay started long enough to set anything
Hey Taco, I Recently bought the TPS tool and adjusted my TPS from .50, that was the setting i had on it, 2017 KTM 250 exc-f , i adjusted the TPS to .70 at which i felt the bike was a bit more aggressive and felt like it just wanted to go a bit more, so i set it down to .64 and found that i was happy with this setting. But now I’m reading all these comments and how bad it is for the motor, and it scares the shit out of me as i do not want to blow up my engine. Do you think i should just set it back to 0.50 as there was no fiddling with the yellow and red knobs and the bike was actually running perfectly, and i just wanted a bit more power. Other mods include a Full fmf system 4.1 Thanks for the video and knowledge bombs.
If I’m you, I’d set it to factory spec per the video and choose a reflash, piggyback fuel tuner or ecu option that best suited my budget and riding needs🤘🏽
I have watched the last portion of this video as well as the google doc on setting TPS.. The part i havent got is.. do i calibrate the GET ecu at the “closed plate value” IE .40 Or the idle value when set to 1950 rpms..? IE .53 ish Thank you..
This is the exact question I asked didn’t get a straight forward answer told me to follow procedure and ride it but I still don’t know if The correct way to calibrate TPS with get ECU is backing the idle screw all the way out first and then zero tps or vice versa have everything set ti where it should be and then zero tps
Adjusting the idle all the way out on my voltage meter gets me .4 on the money and then when you turn the idle screw to where I like it it’s .59 (I like higher idle for stunts) but I just want to know if the correct way is to set zero tos with the get when idle screw has no effect on tps voltage or set it first and then zero if anyone has the answer It would make my day
I need to do this to my 2011 250sx f and I don’t have a battery to bump that 3min limit. Do I need the tool you mentioned that powers at that point? Thanks in advance
Great knowledge. Do you know best the start point on the throttle body the Voltage on KTM 690 2015 or 2016 same throttle body. Im havving issues with mine. I'm desperate and I can't find this info
I got a 2020 KTM 300 tpi 2 stroke and the tps isn’t adjustable at all. At fully closed with no pressure on the butterfly it’s still reading .535 instead of .4 and causing my bike to run rich. I’ve tried leaning it out as much as I can with the idle air bypass but can’t get it lean enough without starting to get hanging idle.
Is the stock TPS value for a '16 500 EXC .53 also? Before I knew better I used Mr. Clean's TPS tool to compensate for a end cap. I have since adjusted it back down but I don't remember what the stock setting was.
Great tutorial!! I've seen it stated that there is some value in increasing the TPS setting for an un-modded bike, as it richens the mixture especially at low rpm and the engine will run smoother and cooler at low rpm's. Is this true? I'm on a '18 250 EXC-F and am not looking for any significant performance upgrade. I wouldn't mind a slightly more aggressive exhaust note...can the bike handle some drilling out of the exhaust screen without an ECU tuner, and if so is there a TPS setting that would be of benefit?
The data says no. I don’t use that hack on any of my personal bikes or ever recommend it. And with a piggy back tuner like a JD being such a low cost option it’s a total no brainer to do it right and have a safe, cool running long lasting bike
You do a really good job explaining. I wanted to know if your research was on any pre 17’ KTM’s. The “other guys” will say that the TPS hack is a no go after 17 because the idle and the TPS work together. However on 12-16 you really are causing more fuel to enter vs air since the air is controlled by the butterfly. I’ll admit I tried the hack on 15’. And it did stop popping decel and seemed more consent on low end having removed the smog and removing the end screen. That said, I have no way of measuring against the whole range. I still think ECU is the way to go, but wondering if the TPS hack has more validity on older bikes.
I think you should evaluate the pro’s and cons of the intake reeds on your own and move ahead with the choice you think is best for you. An 80% exhaust obstruction is what it is and we talk about that at length here, in written tech articles and other videos.
So, by what I understood, we have to unscrew both yellow and red adjusters and set the TPS voltage to 4.0v, correct? If so, why do we need the 5.3 V point? By what you said it does not matter as it changes with the idle rpm...
OK, Taco Mike, I've watched this video a bunch of times and I think I get it. I don't currently own a tuning harness. I have a 2020 500 EXC-F. To tune my bike, can I first turn the yellow knob all the way out so that it's not impacting the idol. Then start my bike, and use the red knob to set my idol at 1800 rpm (I have a TT Voyager Pro). That's now my base idol speed. Then I can adjust the yellow knob to the fast idol speed that I want when I click it in. Is this correct? Many thanks for your great videos!
That is the way. Turn out yellow all the way (63 clicks) Set red to desired rpm range (2000 on my XCFW 350) once bike is warmed up Then set high idle to appx 2300 rpm (or enough so that the throttle can still disengage the function - see my note below) Note: if you dont set the high idle (enough clicks screwed in) then the throttle tube will have a very difficult (if not impossible) time disengaging the high idle when you roll the throttle forward. Essentially, for every click you go in with the red knob, you'll need to do the same with the yellow to maintain the gap you see Taco showing in the video.
Thank you for this video. I am assuming the throttle body is the same on my 2021 450sxf FE? Same yellow and red knobs. I found this video in a search for a THREF malfunction fault on my bike. (FI light constant flash, no pattern) Any ideas as to what condition sets that fault? Can't find any reference material in manual. Bike runs and starts fine.
Sir ! I am from India and I own a Ninja 300 (2019 ABS) ...My question is " How can I adjust the TPS to factory settings if the output voltage for Idle is given in service manual..? And the bike also does rough idling (close to 2k rpm) for few seconds and then comes back to normal.... My bike is running lean as I tried set TPS it to factory output voltage just by rotating the TPS to the factory output voltage.. Please help..!
Thanks for such detailed information. I have a question. I have a very rich fuel air mixture in stock. If I lower the voltage below 0.53 will it help solve my problem?
So if the idle screw is backed out all the way and its not effecting the throttle plate, you can still manipulate the voltage but loosening the screws for the tps and twisting it, how do you know what postion/voltage to lock the tps at?
Great vid!! I have a 2014 KTM 350 SX-F and has a diff throttle body. I'm fighting with: (a) won't idle unless "fast idle" is pulled out; (b) major lean pop & virtually no engine braking on downhills; and (c) excessively sensitive throttle response (almost no latitude from off to "wheelie"). I cannot find the manual or any good tech info on that older throttle body. Any productive thoughts from anyone?
I have a 2012 350 and when I go full throttle the bike stalls out. I can still drive the bike but whenever i go to hard on the throttle it stalls. Could this be related to the throttle sensor position?
Toco say I have a 16 husqvarna fc250 and I had a starter clutch bearing go out so I changed that then put new starter relay and starter an new fuel injector new plug but it still won't start its like the fuel line just fill up pump works turns over no fire no nothing can maybe give me some input please I feel like it's something really dumb but sure could use a bit of help thank
Do you know anything about the husqvarna 701 tps in a vitpilen? I am have issues with mine and need to know what the values are and where I should back probe for them. Thanks
You mentioned in the video what the Vortex ECU is looking for but not the GET. Anyone with a GET Ecu did you guys calibrate tps with your idle set already or did you go to .40 with no idle influence then calibrate tps on GET app? I have been running my 2023 ktm 500 using the first method because when I try the second method, the GET app will say that zero throttle is 3 percent and max is 103 percent etc and I feel like that ruins the mapping. Do the GET Maps want us to calibrate tps at .40 or .53? Aka idle already set I want to make sure my bike lives as long as possible and is getting correct fueling
When I asked this question previously, I was told to use the second method but it just doesn’t make sense to me that the get app would be looking for 0% throttle to be 3% in the app. If it thinks that zero is 3% throttle it’s going to give the fueling tables for 3% throttle at zero throttle
Thanks Taco Mike! Just bought a 2022 KTM 350 EXC with only 200 miles on it. Bike was running super lean with flat spots on acceleration and constant popping on deceleration. In addition to an FMF muffler, smog delete, vented airbox cover, reed removal, O2 sensor delete, and more, the original owner altered the TPS baseline, setting it at .48 and .62 at idle. Using your video, and a TPS dongle that allowed me to reset the baseline to .40 and .52 at idle. I used JD Jetting Power Surge 6x adjustments and a new spark plug to give it some more fuel and the bike is a ROCKET. Wanted also to thank you for stocking all the parts needed to get the bike running perfect. Cheers!
First time I’ve understood what’s going on with those knobs and how TPS works with the ECU.
Thanks
Glad to help!
Hi guys, nice video...
For riders on a budget or they just don't buy into every item out there... You do not need these harnesses to check TPS voltage..
Although the harness is put in series the connections to read voltage are not. You are not interrupting the signal you are just reading the voltage ...all you need is a paperclip or long pin, etc pushed into the two lower connectors on TPS connector...2022 500 is black and yellow/orange..i used plastic covered and colored paper clips lubricated with a little dielectric grease which you can strip on the ends so they will not short if they touch...
Hope this helps a few riders out...Joe
Happy New Year .......
What adjustment did you make on you 500?
So I’ve just got a 2023 sx 125 with 10 hours on it, beautiful bike, but didn’t realize how advanced and different they are compared to older carb models and I’ll be honest was in two minds on keeping it as I thought you had to have special tps tools to set values. Watching this video has made me realize that I can do it using a volt meter and plug harness and now understand what things are. Fantastic video and I will now keep the bike and learn new techniques for running and tuning the bike. I plan on putting a HGS system on, so hopefully will be ok? Thanks for a great video and putting things into an easy to understand way.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I bought a practically brand new '23 350 excf this year that had a previous owner who only put 8 miles on the bike but for whatever reason decided to messed around with a bunch of settings. The intake reeds were partially dislodged and I've had a host of stalling/low end issues. Thanks to your videos I now have a legit roadmap to reset my bike back to a totally stock tps setting so I can reinstall the reeds and install the EJK and Pro Moto endcap you suggested for budget-aware single track riders.
Keep us posted 🤘🏽🤘🏽
Let me start by saying I appreciate all the videos. Very good and a great help
With that said I have to comment on the TPS function and the result of adjustment that is higher than recommended.
The fuel system on these bike are extremely simple compared to cars that use multiple sensors to control fuel under several conditions.
Bikes typically have a few sensors. Air Temp usually in the air box, coolant temp and Map sensor.
Off the top of my head I don’t recall the earlier EFI bikes having MAP sensors and only recently have I seen stock systems using an 02 sensors. (Bikes using 02 sensors have a more sophisticated computer and mapping system in that they make adjustments in smaller RPM increments or windows)
That all said I wanted to speak to the comment that bumping the TPS voltage up results in a leaner condition. Mechanically that make no sense. With the throttle plate set to allow air in to achieve the specified idle and the TPS set to spec let’s say the Air Fuel ratio is 0 (not lean and not rich). As soon as you adjust the TPS voltage up and add fuel at idle you are also adding fuel as the throttle is opened because the TPS voltage window has been increased from the start. Fuel will be richer through the entire throttle sweep. With the exception of an 02 sensor which reads the actual mixture after burn and reports to the ECU so it can correct, these bike don’t have any sensors to tell the ECU otherwise other than coolant/ engine temp which is only really only prevalent when the motor is cold or hot outside the acceptable operating range. But under normal running temps the TPS is adding slightly more fuel thru the entire throttle sweep if it’s set to a higher voltage.
So how can it be leaner?
I like how no one has responded to your point. I build 6 figure budget high end hot rods and land cruisers. I am very familiar with automotive fuel injection systems. Your explanation is spot on! Without an o2 sensor the engine will never fully know whether it is running too rich or lean.
I like the in depth explanation of the inner workings of this throttle body but the information regarding this “Lean” issue also makes no sense to me.
Anyone care to comment?
Can someone knowledgeable comment on this please I have a 2023 KTM 500 EXC and I have removed all the smog stuff and the O2 sensor and have a get ECU and I noticed that once the bike is warm the idle not only changes but hi I am getting a lot of deceleration popping and really jerky off throttle from closed to like just barley opening it it’s jumpy as hell I want to know how I can fix this correctly
I’d say that there’s no answer because there’s no money in it. If you can achieve a little more fuel by upping the voltage than why buy a tuner or piggy back? It obviously helps to up the voltage because hundreds of posts prove it does. Mike said that if two or more get you an answer online then there you have it. It’s not leaner up top when adding voltage. Probably richer. I have a temp gauge and after upping the voltage it runs cooler. Why? Probably getting more fuel.
@@MRGarsionithat is spot on, 20+ years in tuning here too, in this case the tps position regulates the afr, he is simply wrong by saying all you do with adjusting tps is opening the throttle like you do on high idle speed screw, it's not as one is mechanical and other is a sensor to sense the aperture of the throttle which then feeds the signal to the ecu and that one desides how much fuel innthat case needs to be sprayed in, plain and simple, if it had a wideband lambda sensor that would be a different matter but it doesn't so it purely relies on the tps setup matched with the written map in the ecu. And it's sensitive ! I've just played with mine and immediately I've noticed too much fuel ( bumped to 644 from std 522, I'll back it up to somewhere in the middle ).
Thank YOU! I’m a new sxf owner (2022) and was struggling to understand how the knobs correlated and worked. I was also going to set the tps to the .60-.64 people have been going on and on about. It didn’t really make sense to me because of it being a relative number based on the idle and choke variable. This makes perfect sense now. I built s little harness tonight snd look forward to having an easier starting bike in the morning.
I RESPECT YOUR EFFORD AND OPPINION !!!
MY OPPINION IS THIS.
The choke opens the throttle plate physically, the TPS does not open it, the TPS is sensor witch gives the information to the computer how open it is, the TPS just transfer information from the throttle plate to the computer.
So by adjusting the TPS you trick the computer to think that the throttle plate is open more than it actually is and that makes the computer to let more fuel, but actually we did not touch the throttle plate position physically we just make the computer to think we did. The amount of air is the same because we did not open the throttle plate physically but the fuel is more because the computer think we did.
EXAMPLE:
Lets imagine that we have 1 amount of air and 1 amount of fuel as air fuel mixture. Than we make the computer to think that we have 1.5 amount of air by adjusting the TPS sensor ( 0.5 amount increase) but actually the throttle plate is on the same position and is still letting just 1 amount of air, witch makes the computer to let 1.5 amount of fuel while it actually has 1 amount of air.
SITUATION 2: higher rpm
We are half throttle open with value lets say 5 but we already made the computer to think that we have 0.5 amount increase in air witch is 5.5, so the computer let 5.5 amount of fuel to the mixture while actually has 5 amount of air.
SO HOW ADJUSTING THE TPS MAKES THE MIXTURE LEAN IN HIGHER RPM ?
HOW ADJUSTING THE TPS OPENS THE THROTTLE PLATE PHYSICALLY LIKE THE CHOKE DOES ?
AND WHAT IS YOUR OPPINION ON MY LOGIC FOR TPS ADJUSTMENT?
!!! MY OPPINION IS ABOUT A STOCK BIKE !!!
SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH IT IS MY 3TH LANGUAGE.
I AM EXITED TO READ YOUR ANSWER BECAUSE THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING THAT WE MAY DO NOT KNOW.
makes sense. I d like to read his answer too.
I agree
You are correct. What I think mike tries to say is:
Adjusting the tps on a bike with a closed loop map doesn’t work. Adjusting the tps on a bike with a open loop map is hard to do correctly. This is confusing so please give me money for a aftermarket ECU instead…
Yes I’d like to see a response to this as well
Yes I’d like to see a response to this as well
Best example in the internet.
I'm doing my F150 Yamaha outboard with 2 throttle body's and this is SPOT ON great video... you know exactly what you're doing thanks for your support & knowledge.👍🇺🇲💯
7:10 correct, the TPS doesn't make changes to all parts of the fuel maps, only the low end and light throttle areas.
The TPS adjustment can fix flame outs off idle.
The reason is that the ecu swaps between the TPS and the MAP sensor to sense engine load.
The MAP signal is rapidly fluctuating at idle and light throttle/low rpm on account of the short manifold and single cylinder intake pulses.
The ecu can't get a stable reading to go off, so it switches to the TPS reading as a source for the engine load.
Using the TPS for full load/high rpm reference is dangerous as it is not a good indicator of actual load on the engine (imagine 75% throttle at 7000rpm going uphill vs downhill, the fuel needs will be wildly different)
So, the ecu uses the MAP signal in these ranges as it is a good indicator of actual load.
This is a good video, however! I understand these systems! I realized you were referring to a 2020 with an O2 sensor! That is a closed loop system! Some of the comments below people are talking about older models without a O2 sensor, open loop system! Those bikes can be ever so slightly tuned successfully
Via TPS! A closed loop system like that 2020 the O2 sensor will always adjust and get the reading that the ECU mapping was programmed to achieve! I have a 2015 500 EXC and that throttle body is so different the new one is a better design I have issues with the older one that will not happen on the new throttle body. I love these tech videos I always pick up something new!
Correct , PCM will override adjustment made to TPS which is the very nature of "closed loop" fuel monitoring
@@KTMBB71 There are some thoughts about removing the 02 sensor and blocking off the port, then fueling with a tuner. Your thoughts?
Just bought a tps adjustment tool and i am very happy i watched this video this morning as i was just about to go mess around with it.
I have a 2019 500 exc-f, and I followed your recommendations and got the Fastway exhaust tip and the Dobeck EJK. It's been working really good so far. The EJK was the easiest thing to install. True plug and play. Thanks!!
Great to hear!
I know who you referring to... i went down that track with my 127 350, it was a waste of time, made my bike worse on power, the TPS adjust is a load of crap!! thanks for the video, keep em coming :-)
There 4 or 5 sources of the tps hack, a few on thumper talk one or two on TH-cam and one or two on ktm talk. Not sure who benefits from the claims but it’s fools gold
@@TACOMOTOCO Does it work the same for a 2020 300 tpi ?
Which thing regarding the 2020 tpi are referring to?
@@TACOMOTOCO is setting the TPS on a 2020 300 tpi done the same way as you describe in your video
Sort of. Refer to the service manual for that bike to ensure accuracy.
Thanks Mike. I suspect my 450 was molested and doesn’t run correctly. I suspected the TPS, but I couldn’t find my TPS tool. I got it running decent, but this video confirms I need to dig it up and do a total reset.
Love the vids.. lots of info. One problem though. Changing the tps value by adjusting the tps in relation to the butterfly is totally different than using the fast idle screw to open the butterfly and tps together. The tps tells the ecu how far open the butterfly is so if the tps value is set higher when the butterfly is closed the ecu thinks the butterfly is opening which changes fuel ratio. Might help at idle but On a bike with an o2 and Map sensor once the bike is warm enough to go into closed loop and use the sensors to fine tune the fuel mapping fooling the ecu isn't beneficial.
You are SPOT ON and I was going to say the same. Most companies like to run open loop at idle especially when cold because the O2 sensor reading is not correct until fully warm. Also every single start is completely open loop fueling. So this is why modifying the TPS value improves start because it richens the mixture (similar to choke). Now why dont it come that rich from factory? (CARB and EPA). Now on bikes with an O2 sensor like the street legal EXC the O2 sensor along with the MAP sensor takes care of all the free flow intake/exhaust mods. You dont need a TPS tuning for exhaust mods. But you do need it to take advantage of Open loop starts and Idle until the O2 sensor picks up.
Now there are bikes without the O2 sensor like the XC bikes or the MX bikes. Those definitely can work better when this is properly tuned and you can get an overall rich mixture throughout the rev range with this mod. So less knocking, less valve wear from heat and engine lives longer and loves that. Plus fewer flameouts.
I like your videos but I gotta say not everything you said is correct. I hope you make another video that will fizx the issues.
Who are you talking to about making a correction video here? Your comment isn’t made to the make4 of this video.
Mike, you are the best. Thanks for being such a practical authority on these bikes for youtube. Your services are greatly appreciated.
Thanks mate. Moto is life.
It's wild that this video hasn't been taken down and redone, or at the very least corrected. There is SO much convoluted, conflicting, confusing information. I don't think it was intended to be confusing or misleading, but it sure could use cleaning up.
I also wanted to comment on the "TPS Hack". It was my understanding that the pre-2016 bikes could be manipulated with a TPS adjustment, but 2017+ could not. That was the "truth" I settled on in early 2018 when I bought my '17, so I bought a Vortex. I've tried searching for information on the fueling strategy used and haven't found any good information. What I have found is info saying that MAP sensors were added at some point and the "TPS hack" works in low throttle situations. It amazes me that in all the comments below, there isn't one mention if these bikes run a speed density or alpha-N fueling strategy. If they are speed density, no, the TPS setting won't do anything. If they run alpha-N, yes, the TPS setting will do something. But what it sounds like to me is that up to 2016 they were exclusively alpha-N, and starting in 2017 they are using both. So, alpha-N at low throttle inputs because the MAP reading is unstable at idle and off-idle. Then, it transitions to speed density after a certain point, probably dictated by a number of parameters like RPM, throttle position, MAP reading, etc. So, in all likelihood, the "TPS hack" will make a difference in the alpha-N stage at idle and off-idle, but no difference when they system transitions to speed density. Therefore, as is the intended topic of this video, the "TPS hack" to account for not only the stock super-lean mapping but also the addition of modifications that really need more fuel DOESN'T WORK as intended.
I don't know where folks heard "it will run leaner" with the "TPS hack". What he said is basically "you think you're fixing the lean condition with the TPS, but you're not, and the situation is even worse if you start adding free flowing exhausts, removing your reeds, etc."
It's also crazy to me that people think with as much power and influence that the EPA has that their efforts to cut down emissions could be skirted with a simple tweak like that. It is SO BAD that anybody who can theoretically tune one of these ECU's won't touch them for fear of the legal consequences. You have to be in a secret society to get your stock ECU tuned, yeah, I'm real sure that can be skirted around by loosening two screws and tweaking a sensor. No way the EPA lets that feature get through, they won't even let you have a map switch, or even a connector to plug the switch into.
I'd never buy one of these bikes used if they didn't have the ECU remapped in some way. They'd need a Vortex, GET, JD Tuner, or something similar to get the fuel where it needs to be for engine longevity. Running on the LEAN factory map that passes the strict emissions standards is a recipe for disaster.
Mike, thank you very much for this AWESOME video. I can assume that this is the same for 2023/2024 KTM 300-SX and XC, GasGas, Husqvarna....ect. If not, would you make a video Strickley for the 2023/2024 125, 250, 300...2-stroke bikes and if your TPS wire you make will work on these bikes as well or not?
In addition, if you happen to make a separate detailed TPS video for 2023/2024 2-stroke bikes could you please include detail info 2023 and 2024 (I'm sure 2025 as well) 2-stroke """Electronic Power Valve""" setting as well, I'm sure it will be greatly appreciated by MANY people.
On ya' Mike - trying to undo some 'tuning' now I've just got a Vortex and this is more or less everything I need. You're a legend. 👍
OK just to make sure I got this correct. Hook your voltage meter up. Counter clockwise the fast idle knob to get it out of the way. Counter clockwise the idle (red) knob so it is not touching or stops changing the voltage. IF that voltage number is NOT .40, loosen the TPS and move the TPS so it reads .40 on the meter. Tighten up the TPS. Run the idle knob so the voltage meter reads .53. Run the fast idle knob to when it changes while in the out position.
Great info. You state that .53 is not a spec but where the bike should be idling at 1800-1900 RPM. If the bike is not idling at 1800 at .53, would I adjust the TPS until it does? If I set idle via the idle knob, that opens the throttle plate which is not the same as adjusting the TPS sensor position. Thanks
Thanks for making this video, I picked up a sweet low hour 15 TE501(35hours), I saw a bald guys end cap on there, so I'll reset/check the TPS, and get a fuel controller!!
Love your videos, I learn more from you than I ever would from guys at the track or trial and error in the garage.
Clear and expert explanation. Thank you! Does the 690 SMC-R have similar throttle body design re idle and fast idle knobs?
Great video and explanation. Clear information and demonstration.
Thanks mark. I appreciate the words. That means a good bit coming from you mate
Great video, thanks for making it, lots of good info, makes perfect sense. Now for my questions. I was one of those guys that changed my tps position because of some serious decel pop after installing an fmf slip on my 16' ktm 500 exc. First question, is the 16' 500 stock tps setting also .53? Second question, if I reset my tps back to stock will a JD Jetting Power Surge fix my decel pop? I just recently picked one up cheap and haven't installed it. Thanks
.60 on that bike. More fuel will impress you with how much more that bike has to offer you
Thanks man 0.40v is the foundation under no influences. Everything else is adjustable based on personal preference.
The hole adjusting the tps thing is left over from the 12 to 16 style ktm 500 exc.
Damn! What an excellent video! The 8 dislikes are from guys who ride old beat up carbed bikes
Why didn't i watch this video before wasting 2 weeks of my life being convinced by forums that my bike is garbage without tuning the tps and buying a magical fuel rail? dang it..
Well done video. The 2017-2020 exc 500 runs just fine in stock form. Especially for those of us who live in the Midwest. If you want to spend money on improvements for your bike put it in the suspension you’d be better off
I really appreciate your video. Can’t thank you enough. My 2022 KTM 500 EXC-F kept shutting down when cold start was off. I’ve got 30 hours on the bike, love it. But, suddenly it wouldn’t go after cold start disengaged. This video fixed that problem. However, will I need to adjust something since now both the cold start yellow adjust is turned max clockwise and the red idle is turned max in? Is there something I’m missing? Do I need to adjust the TPS? Will this cause problems later or should I just run it with both turned all the way in? Thank you!
love the tps tester, where can i buy that from you guys. great vid, btw...you are very smart!
i might have missed it.. but if .40 is good when the red/yellow knobs are unscewed to there max, and you start to turn up the idle to 1800ish..then you said tps might end up at .60.. but if i get a vortex, and goto install it, do i leave the tps at .60/1800rpm, or do i readjust it to .53 ..whatever the 1800 rpm lands on is the tps spec? and the correct tps for a vortex/get? so 1800rpm is more important than the tps value?.. btw great video, with tons of info, im just a little confused! and going to look at a 2020 500 tomorrow!
I have same question with get ecu want to know correct procedure for people with aftermarket ECU and no O2 sensor
Wow.What a great informative video.Just what I've been looking for.Thx guys.
Mike, a great all-around video. First, I am not advocating for the hack in any way (like you I think it should never be done) but to want to clear up something you say that is misleading. Multiple times you say that doing the hack is "the same as holding the throttle open at the high-idle setting". It's not. Rotating the sensor to get a higher voltage value CHANGES the relative mixture value at all throttle settings. If it were the same as setting the bike to high-idle, the bike would idle faster. Rotating the TPS sensor changes the mixture through the throttle range - it does not change idle speed in any way. It has nothing to do with high-idle position, etc. It may just happen to be that what you are setting the value to is close to the same value as your CURRENT high idle setting but as you even showed, the high-idle open position is highly adjustable by twisting the yellow knob. So, the "default" TPS value at high-idle will in fact have a widely variable range depending on what a given rider sets that value to. We fully agree that changing the TPS to a higher value will add more fuel across the throttle range but will not do it in the correct amount so it's a futile attempt as fixing a problem.
Is this information also applicable to a 2023 350? Same values? Thanks Mike!
As usual Mike great video and it should be posted on so many KTM EXC forums. Also is it fair to say that turning the yellow knob all the way OUT and only playing once with the red idle knob is the way to go? I had some sporadic high revving times with my KTM 500 at times (when bike was hot) and turned the yellow knob all the way out and never had that weird issue anymore. I also never had to use the yellow knob for cold start...i guess what i am trying to say is why a yellow knob KTM why?
I think following the vid is best practices. Turn the yellow all the way out, set the idle then set the yellow.
Some bikes in some conditions need the fast start knob
@@TACOMOTOCO Thanks Mike.
Just a thought...why not trying to have that guy Aaron on your next live video? 140,000km and 1400h world tour on a 500 EXC could be epic talking about maintenance...etc
His thread on advrider
advrider.com/f/threads/new-zealand-rtw-and-back-on-a-ktm500exc.1181912/
Great minds must think alike. All ready have him booked
@TACO MOTO CO
Most companies like to run open loop at idle especially when cold because the O2 sensor reading is not correct until fully warm. Also every single start is completely open loop fueling. So this is why modifying the TPS value improves start because it richens the mixture (similar to choke). Now why dont it come that rich from factory? (CARB and EPA). Now on bikes with an O2 sensor like the street legal EXC the O2 sensor along with the MAP sensor takes care of all the free flow intake/exhaust mods. You dont need a TPS tuning for exhaust mods. But you do need it to take advantage of Open loop starts and Idle until the O2 sensor picks up.
Now there are bikes without the O2 sensor like the XC bikes or the MX bikes. Those definitely can work better when this is properly tuned and you can get an overall rich mixture throughout the rev range with this mod. So less knocking, less valve wear from heat and engine lives longer and loves that. Plus fewer flameouts.
I like your videos but I gotta say not everything you said is correct. I hope you make another video that will fizx the issues.
We don’t say that TPS tuning will fuel exhaust or intake mods in fact we say it very often very publicly that it won’t.
A tps hack is not a tune.
I wish it was true what you say about the o2 bikes compensating for air flow mods but testing by us and other shops time and time again show that not to be the case.
@@TACOMOTOCO Well that is the whole point of the O2 sensor to compensate BUT that compensation usually tops out at a certain percentage. So let's say the company knows that typical airflow variation from engine to engine is 5 percentage then they will limit the O2/Fuel adaptions to 5 percentage. If the mods increase airflow by 10 percent then the fuel air ratio is off and we will be running 5 percentage lean.
TPS tuning or hack will indeed affect the overall fueling on a bike with no feedback mechanism like the closed circuit bikes. So this is a good hack to have if one knows what they are doing and dont want to spend big on custom ECUs
As a matter of fact I have a Husaberg FX450 and a Husqvarna FC350. Both bikes are open loop because they aren't road legal and the TPS hack does wonders on how the bike runs overall. The effects on an EXC-F will be limited to starts, cold idle, etc
Tps hack is not a tune but is somewhat viable on the 12-16 gen bikes using the 32 bit ECU’s but with the release of the 64 bit boxes on the 17-19,gen enduro bikes it’s results are less productive and on the 20+ gen bikes will run terrible from it.
If the 20+ US spec bikes running the locked EPA map allowed for enough fuel trim swing to accommodate any intake or exhaust mod then you’d essentially have an auto tune system and could install any mod remove any component and the bike or car would auto calibrate to cover the new air flow. Man I wish that was the case, how nice would that be.
What would the point of a regulatory agency be if they allowed for auto compensation.
Imagine being on a highway where the speed limit sign changed to match whatever speed you happened to be doing at the time.
Or your overdrawn bank account recalibrated itself with enough available cash to cover each new purchase you were going to make.
That sounds like an amazing world, one of for sure live to live in.
@@TACOMOTOCO as a matter of fact car ECU software already does this adjustment for airflow. They cap the max adaption to a value they feel comfortable enough. This js because they want to account for engine variations, cam chain stretch, air filter flow loss increase with age if filter, CAT or DPF clogging etc. Small mods are easily accepted within this range. For example if you install a lower backpressure exhaust you still dont get an engine check light come on on a car. This small change in airflow increase is been adapted out by the airflow and fuel adapts. Now throw in a tuned header and the change in flow exceeds the manufacturer allowed trim and it sets an engine check light. As long as the check light has not come on its safe to assume engine is aware of the increased flow and hence already making changes to fuel and spark to account for the increased flow.
How do I know? I used to calibrate such vehicles for a living and do performance and drivability tests. So we know how the ECU works else we won't be able to set the parameters (spark, cams, fuel ratio etc). Yes fuel ratio too. Not every time does an ECU target stoich fuel air ratio. They target what ever ratio makes the lowest emissions
Vortex and pipe on my 17 exc 500.Sat three years when I bought it.Found the fuel injector to be clogged,fired up with new one,no need to push in the yellow knob,when warm the idle was high,I tried turning red knob,only sped up..turned the other way,until the red knob had the spring compressed all the way,idle still too high.Turned the yellow knob,two clicks and the rpm settled down nicely.Doubt the tps has ever been touched.
I sorta lost my way when adjusting my KTM 350 XCFW's idle settings. I need to get them back to stock and then go from there.
1. My intuition says turn the yellow (choke) knob out all the way first so that it's not affecting idle.
2. Then get the bike warmed up and then set idle (red) knob to 2000 rpm (per manual's recommended idle speed)
3. With the yellow knob so far out, it will no longer even do much in the way of a high idle and when pushed in it wont release when rolling the throttle grip forward
4. So from there I can start turning in the yellow (choke) knob in until at least the throttle grip can be trusted to roll forward and engage the release.
63 clicks out is max
38 clicks out (25 clicks in) is OEM
I had to do 32 clicks out (31 clicks in) before the throttle grip release for the choke would engage
Is this the best way to set all that stuff? As far as order of events?
In some models the yellow screw will not be there instead an Air screw and the separate choke piston will be there at the throttle body. In that case how to understand the role of this yellow screw that the shown here? The example is Royal Enfield Classic 500 2018 model.
I’m just taking a look at this piece on my bike. I have a 450 SXF that has been misfiring. It doesn’t need a valve clearance. The fuel pump is fine. The stator is fine but I’m thinking if the misfiring is happening because somethings tuned improperly with this throttle body piece. I would love to hear your thoughts.
I know my yellow knob has been tampered with. Probably the idle adjustmeny knob as well. I know because I screwed with it when my fuel filter got clogged and I didn't know what was going on. Is there any way that I can readjust it to factory specs without taking off the throttle body? I can pull the yellow knob down and turn it counterclockwise until it stops and then adjust my idle. Then do I turn the yellow knob clockwise until I feel slight resistance and it's set?
Your videos are great. I have a 19' 250 excf and the low end is really a bit disappointing compared to other opened up bikes I have ridden. I haven't made any adjustments and my budget is fairly low. I know you vouch for the piggyback and endcap as the first things to do. In your mind in order of importance what mods would you make to get this to really rip.
Good stuff no BS videos. Love them
Suspension then power.
The Dobeck is a good low cost tuner and does well. A replacement ecu will really wake that bike up. Take a look at a vortex or a GET🤘🏽
I appreciate this man, but I am totally turned off when people talk bad about the competition.
I'm not taking a stand either way, because I don't have the tech knowledge. I would imagine though, that it would be hard as heck to sell those ridiculously expensive GET and Vortex tuners if people could just tune up thier bikes like this wouldn't it?
When I first started racing Dave sent me his whole catalogue for free as a way, to sponsor me. I put in the big bottom kit, fuel rail, adjusted TPS, put in the larger clutch cover along with the clutch weight. All of it improved the way my bike ran as far as I could tell. By the way, that big clutch cover, and bar inserts save my bike and my butt on more than one occasion. The clutch cover is tough to put a hole in, and the bar inserts do a great job of protecting your levers, grips and throttle tube.
Anyways, I'm no longer affiliated with him but, I always saw him as somebody who helps people, with less expensive alternatives. Not a snake oil salesmen. He is for sure a mad scientist, and very flakey as well, but for about a third of what your tuners cost, I got a performance increase I was happy with.
Instead of telling me how bad he is, maybe tell me how the GET or vortex is so much better. So much so, that it is worth paying 10x more for.
Thanks again, and I do appreciate what you do for the community, just turned off by the attitude towards a competitor.
What’s up my man. Thanks for the comment. Not sure I follow though, I don’t have anything to say about anyone, that’s not what I’m about.
As I hope to be very clear here there’s a few points I’m making:
*The red and yellow knobs are misunderstood
*The tps ‘tune’ isn’t a tune
*You can use a special voltage device to set tps value or a meter and the ecu. I don’t take a position really on either one. Both work well.
*setting the rpm to spec is very important
*some devices like the Vortex ecu require the tps value to be set to stock
*over view of all the components.
Thanks for watching my videos and if you think I swung and missed on any of those points I’d love to get your specific feedback.
@@TACOMOTOCO you know what. You are right. I think I am attributing the comments of others to you. You would think having a channel myself, I would know better. Sorry man. And again thanks for the work you do.
@@JoeRockstar all good my dude. what's your video channel. throw a link here and i'll check it out.
Another great video! You're much clearer than a repair manual😁
Thank you for the good explanation,everything what you said was bang on,my ktm 250 SXF is runing good because of you🤟
I just got a new Vortex, Euro Airbox without the Reed, and a brand new Yoshi exhaust. I’m literally just taking a break before putting the new pipe on. On the Vortex instructions it has a video showing how to recalibrate the TPS at both closed throttle and WFO. Hold the kill switch and turning over the starter for about 3 seconds in closed throttle, repeated again in WFO.
My problem is I have an FE501S will an ON/OFF switch. In the OFF position the starter will not turn over.
The Vortex I got came from a tuner with custom maps and they said I need to bring it in so they can hook it up to their laptop to recalibrate the TPS. They also said it needs to be recalibrated any time I readjust the idle speed just like you explained.
Will your pigtail tool allow me to also set WFO calibration?
Mike, can you please share the link to the "other video" that you mention for tuning the yellow knob? Thanks
Excellent video! Well done!
You are missing a vital part of the equation. The ecu is in idle position from .53v to about .64v. Anything above .65 it will read the main fuel map. I have the UST and see how all this ties with the ecu. My bike was .57v from factory and adjusted it to .60v and found my off idle was crisper as the ecu wasnt in idle mod when I broke the throttle thus adjusting the timing and fuel properly.
When it’s in spec it runs correctly as you noted 🤙🏽
This is possibly the most relevant comment. If you're saying that up to .64 adjustment on the TPS is still within spec per KTM...than making that adjustment to eliminate flame outs, increase throttle response off idle, or any other symptom that is cured through it I don't think is fair to categorize as a "Hack".
Ok so....still confused. If one follows this procedure then what is the purpose of the tps sensor being adjustable? Why is it not fixed in place, unable to adjust right or left?
Great video, thanks for posting.
Interesting how the injector is perpendicular to the flow direction and not pointing in angle into the intake.
Excellent video I have a 18 500 excf did tps adjustment check engine light kept coming on and would run like crap got jd tuner all good now do you know spec for tps?
Hey Mike, my desmogged, reedless, FMF 4.1 (spark arrested), JD Tuner 2019 450EXC has a bit (300-400 rpms) of a hanging idle when I let off the gas and sort of an intermittent varying idle. I’ve adjusted the TPS perfectly to spec. I haven’t checked the fuel filters yet, as it only has 24hrs and I’m just digging into it.
Any ideas on where to start beyond that? I anecdotally felt like the idle is better when I adjust the first fuel light a little leaner, but then I get decel pop. Any ideas on where to start would be much appreciated!
Clean injector by someone who can validate flow and re check
Good video! Personal preference I know, but typically what RPM is high idle? My 350 jumps to 4K and it just seems high on a cold motor.
I have my idle set to 1800 and fast idle at 2350
TACO MOTO CO thanks! But in my ‘19 KTM 350SXF service manual it has a idle spec of 2,250-2,350 RPM but doesn’t state anything regarding high idle spec. Any knowledge there?
@@TACOMOTOCO is that fast idle rpm at cold or warm temp?
I don't even own a KTM but this was really interesting :)
thanks mate
Thanks. Living in a hot environment I could completely remove the yellow knob assembly and plug it up with no disadvantage correct??
Very instructional vid. I have the 2014 (BMW) husky te310r. No one will work on it. Open full pwr. Idle adj screw fell out. Adj tps to get back to camp before I found out the upper tb screw fell out. The enrichment knob is different on the kein. What TPS # should I be at with butterfly fully closed to get back to spec.
I've set TPS at 680 with no idle screw contact,enrichment knob out at 43 as manual states and bike won't stay started long enough to set anything
Not sure on that bike sorry
@@TACOMOTOCO my luck to get a red headed step child
Hey Taco, I Recently bought the TPS tool and adjusted my TPS from .50, that was the setting i had on it, 2017 KTM 250 exc-f ,
i adjusted the TPS to .70 at which i felt the bike was a bit more aggressive and felt like it just wanted to go a bit more, so i set it down to .64 and found that i was happy with this setting.
But now I’m reading all these comments and how bad it is for the motor, and it scares the shit out of me as i do not want to blow up my engine. Do you think i should just set it back to 0.50 as there was no fiddling with the yellow and red knobs and the bike was actually running perfectly, and i just wanted a bit more power.
Other mods include a Full fmf system 4.1
Thanks for the video and knowledge bombs.
If I’m you, I’d set it to factory spec per the video and choose a reflash, piggyback fuel tuner or ecu option that best suited my budget and riding needs🤘🏽
I have watched the last portion of this video as well as the google doc on setting TPS..
The part i havent got is.. do i calibrate the GET ecu at the “closed plate value” IE .40
Or the idle value when set to 1950 rpms..? IE .53 ish
Thank you..
This is the exact question I asked didn’t get a straight forward answer told me to follow procedure and ride it but I still don’t know if The correct way to calibrate TPS with get ECU is backing the idle screw all the way out first and then zero tps or vice versa have everything set ti where it should be and then zero tps
Adjusting the idle all the way out on my voltage meter gets me .4 on the money and then when you turn the idle screw to where I like it it’s .59 (I like higher idle for stunts) but I just want to know if the correct way is to set zero tos with the get when idle screw has no effect on tps voltage or set it first and then zero if anyone has the answer It would make my day
Tps*
I need to do this to my 2011 250sx f and I don’t have a battery to bump that 3min limit. Do I need the tool you mentioned that powers at that point? Thanks in advance
Great knowledge. Do you know best the start point on the throttle body the Voltage on KTM 690 2015 or 2016 same throttle body. Im havving issues with mine. I'm desperate and I can't find this info
Great info! I’m looking forward to this series thanks!
More to come!
I got a 2020 KTM 300 tpi 2 stroke and the tps isn’t adjustable at all. At fully closed with no pressure on the butterfly it’s still reading .535 instead of .4 and causing my bike to run rich. I’ve tried leaning it out as much as I can with the idle air bypass but can’t get it lean enough without starting to get hanging idle.
Legendary post. A must need for the new KTM bikes.
Is the stock TPS value for a '16 500 EXC .53 also? Before I knew better I used Mr. Clean's TPS tool to compensate for a end cap. I have since adjusted it back down but I don't remember what the stock setting was.
No, that bike has a different throttle body, .60v is stock, and idle screw doesn't move the throttle plate on that model
Great tutorial!! I've seen it stated that there is some value in increasing the TPS setting for an un-modded bike, as it richens the mixture especially at low rpm and the engine will run smoother and cooler at low rpm's. Is this true? I'm on a '18 250 EXC-F and am not looking for any significant performance upgrade.
I wouldn't mind a slightly more aggressive exhaust note...can the bike handle some drilling out of the exhaust screen without an ECU tuner, and if so is there a TPS setting that would be of benefit?
The data says no. I don’t use that hack on any of my personal bikes or ever recommend it. And with a piggy back tuner like a JD being such a low cost option it’s a total no brainer to do it right and have a safe, cool running long lasting bike
You do a really good job explaining. I wanted to know if your research was on any pre 17’ KTM’s. The “other guys” will say that the TPS hack is a no go after 17 because the idle and the TPS work together. However on 12-16 you really are causing more fuel to enter vs air since the air is controlled by the butterfly. I’ll admit I tried the hack on 15’. And it did stop popping decel and seemed more consent on low end having removed the smog and removing the end screen. That said, I have no way of measuring against the whole range. I still think ECU is the way to go, but wondering if the TPS hack has more validity on older bikes.
Jeff Slavens has a different point of view on the “value” of the reed cage and plugged up exhaust.
I think you should evaluate the pro’s and cons of the intake reeds on your own and move ahead with the choice you think is best for you.
An 80% exhaust obstruction is what it is and we talk about that at length here, in written tech articles and other videos.
So, by what I understood, we have to unscrew both yellow and red adjusters and set the TPS voltage to 4.0v, correct?
If so, why do we need the 5.3 V point?
By what you said it does not matter as it changes with the idle rpm...
.53 really is not a spec value. It’s probably where it will run at 1800-1900 but not a book number.
.40 is w the plate fully closed
@@TACOMOTOCO ok, understood, I'll check my TPS values. Thanks
OK, Taco Mike, I've watched this video a bunch of times and I think I get it. I don't currently own a tuning harness. I have a 2020 500 EXC-F. To tune my bike, can I first turn the yellow knob all the way out so that it's not impacting the idol. Then start my bike, and use the red knob to set my idol at 1800 rpm (I have a TT Voyager Pro). That's now my base idol speed. Then I can adjust the yellow knob to the fast idol speed that I want when I click it in. Is this correct? Many thanks for your great videos!
That is the way.
Turn out yellow all the way (63 clicks)
Set red to desired rpm range (2000 on my XCFW 350) once bike is warmed up
Then set high idle to appx 2300 rpm (or enough so that the throttle can still disengage the function - see my note below)
Note: if you dont set the high idle (enough clicks screwed in) then the throttle tube will have a very difficult (if not impossible) time disengaging the high idle when you roll the throttle forward. Essentially, for every click you go in with the red knob, you'll need to do the same with the yellow to maintain the gap you see Taco showing in the video.
Any chance you will ever make similar videos with the Newer Beta rr and rrs bikes?
Thank you for this video. I am assuming the throttle body is the same on my 2021 450sxf FE? Same yellow and red knobs. I found this video in a search for a THREF malfunction fault on my bike. (FI light constant flash, no pattern) Any ideas as to what condition sets that fault? Can't find any reference material in manual. Bike runs and starts fine.
Did you ever figure this out? I also had a THREF code flash recently but it hasn’t returned. No symptoms, just the solid flashing light.
You mention .53 for EXC bikes. I have a 2015 350 EXC - the repair manual says TPS should be 0.601 V. Does this sound right?
Sir ! I am from India and I own a Ninja 300 (2019 ABS) ...My question is " How can I adjust the TPS to factory settings if the output voltage for Idle is given in service manual..?
And the bike also does rough idling (close to 2k rpm) for few seconds and then comes back to normal....
My bike is running lean as I tried set TPS it to factory output voltage just by rotating the TPS to the factory output voltage.. Please help..!
Which knob (Red or Yellow) would you adjust to help prevent flame out?
This video really helped me, thanks for posting!
this calibration should work on all KTMs with this throttlebody?
Is 0.40 the procedure to use for a '16 500 EXC? Manual gives a value of 0.60 Is this at idle, or idle screw backed out?
Thanks for such detailed information. I have a question. I have a very rich fuel air mixture in stock. If I lower the voltage below 0.53 will it help solve my problem?
Where I can find the 2° video of TPS?
So if the idle screw is backed out all the way and its not effecting the throttle plate, you can still manipulate the voltage but loosening the screws for the tps and twisting it, how do you know what postion/voltage to lock the tps at?
So when you delete the evap canister, will that affect the settings of the stock .40 and .53??
Should this be why my bike flames out all the time at low rpm?
Great vid!! I have a 2014 KTM 350 SX-F and has a diff throttle body. I'm fighting with: (a) won't idle unless "fast idle" is pulled out; (b) major lean pop & virtually no engine braking on downhills; and (c) excessively sensitive throttle response (almost no latitude from off to "wheelie"). I cannot find the manual or any good tech info on that older throttle body. Any productive thoughts from anyone?
Can you address the "drill a hole in the throttle plate" mod?
Hey I was wondering if you had any ideas on 2013 kx250f that's running bad? It idles ok but when you hammer the throttle it bogs.
I have a 2020 crf450r. How should I set my TPS sensor
Hi my idle is set to stock. 5.3 to 5.4. If I'm moving the tps to 6.3. Does it effect the idling?
How does this apply to older EXCs with a single cold start knob/idle adjuster?
I have a 2012 350 and when I go full throttle the bike stalls out. I can still drive the bike but whenever i go to hard on the throttle it stalls. Could this be related to the throttle sensor position?
Toco say I have a 16 husqvarna fc250 and I had a starter clutch bearing go out so I changed that then put new starter relay and starter an new fuel injector new plug but it still won't start its like the fuel line just fill up pump works turns over no fire no nothing can maybe give me some input please I feel like it's something really dumb but sure could use a bit of help thank
Taco, do you have the stock values for a 2021 YZ250F?
Thank you
I love learning things. Great video.
Do you know anything about the husqvarna 701 tps in a vitpilen? I am have issues with mine and need to know what the values are and where I should back probe for them.
Thanks
How do I find the base tps setting for my 2019 KTM 250xcf USA? Not in owners manual or workshop manual.
I have the same bike, we’re you ever able to locate it? The recommended rpm is 2250 in these bikes as well not 1,700
You mentioned in the video what the Vortex ECU is looking for but not the GET. Anyone with a GET Ecu did you guys calibrate tps with your idle set already or did you go to .40 with no idle influence then calibrate tps on GET app? I have been running my 2023 ktm 500 using the first method because when I try the second method, the GET app will say that zero throttle is 3 percent and max is 103 percent etc and I feel like that ruins the mapping. Do the GET Maps want us to calibrate tps at .40 or .53? Aka idle already set I want to make sure my bike lives as long as possible and is getting correct fueling
When I asked this question previously, I was told to use the second method but it just doesn’t make sense to me that the get app would be looking for 0% throttle to be 3% in the app. If it thinks that zero is 3% throttle it’s going to give the fueling tables for 3% throttle at zero throttle