Wow the car is junk. You know they were cobbled-together from old Austin Maestro spares and were horrible cars but they do outperform the Lada Niva off road and they're great if you get one that looks nice and is in good overall working order. If you like these little cars, they're the best of Land-Rovers.
Excellent video! After the reinstall we also did the following procedure: Disarm the anti-theft alarm system. Disconnect the vehicle battery. Wait 5 seconds. Reconnect the vehicle battery. The CCU will now drive the tail door window to the fully lowered position. Turn the ignition switch to the 'ignition' position. Press and hold the tail door window switch in the 'Up' position until the window has reached the fully closed position. The tail door window should now be calibrated. If calibration has failed, a warning buzzer will sound.
Thanks for the video it was a great help, one thing I would is: When the spool and the cables are off, put the motor back in and wind it down to the bottom, and position the window sliders at the bottom of the supports. best of luck to the next guy that tries.
Thanks for the comprehensive video. That's about the last thing I'm gonna fix when the cylinder head has completely new gaskets, water pump and cooling ;-)
@@comeinhandynow Thanks! The main quest will be replacing missing or terribly wrong placed bolts 😂Discovered wrong bolts at the air filter housing and missing bolts at some piping parallel to the starter. Cheers mate! 🍻
Mine just made a noise and clunk this evening and I got 3 beeps, also my rear demister isn’t working now, so I’ll investigate tomorrow with confidence after watch this video. A big thank you once again. Stay well. Ash from Scotland 👍
Hello sir, greetings from Costa Rica 🇨🇷, first of all I thank you very much for your videos, you have helped me too much, since here it is very difficult to get spare parts and the repairs are very expensive. Thanks to your videos I have made some repairs to my Freelander 👨🏾🔧. Now in a few days I must change the window cables, I am just waiting for the arrival of the repair kit.
Exactly the repair I was looking for, thank you for the upload. Don't know how I would have got the old cables off without undoing the back of the motor (that cover plate had me mystified).
Very nice modification, I replaced a cable on one I had ...and the damn window would not release for opening. I sold the car with that job still to be resolved.
Hi, thanks for the excellent video. Do you have any problem with water leaking into the car when it rain, especially at the tall window? Do you have any idea to fix it? I am in the Southern part of Thailand. Usually, we have 8 months of rain every year.
Yes that can be an issue as the rubber gets old, at some time I’ll do a video on fixing it. The trick is to look at where water runs inside and divert it with silicon seal guides to the outside lower edge. Also seal under the bottom plastic boot cover.
Weird, check for any damage to the motor or wiring. It could be that the bit on the motor that keeps it running until it is in park position got jolted/damaged and is making it run always.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks! The other thing I'm not getting right is the window positioning with the clamps. For some reason is not going down correctly when opening the door. It gets stuck, but it seems the motor is doing its work, so, with a little pressure, it comes down. Any advice?
Hello! I'm Nicoló, I'm Italian waiting from balearic island. Thank you so much for this video! I own a freelander 2003 and I have the same problem with the tailgate window. I was wondering if you have any tricks to understand if the engine is broke or just the wires. Thank you!
It is usually just the cables that have rusted and snapped. You will have to take the motor out and remove / unjam the cables to see if the motor works when you push the up/down button.
It seeps past the door seals and runs inwards to the tray from the bottom. Look when it rains. You can stop it by making guide channels out of silicon seal to guide water out of the door rather than into the tray. One day I might do a video on it.
Hi Sir, In my 2007 model, I’m experiencing the following issue: tail window slides up and down rather well and when I press the handle, it goes down the right amount (correctly). The issue comes when I close the door, most of the times window doesn’t slide up and remain opened and when it apparently works correctly, open door lamp on dash is on. Did you hear something about this kind of issue and may you kindly suggest me what can cause it and a possibly way to fix it? Thank you in advance.
My rear window is stuck in the fully up position (can hear motor running) - I have ordered the same kit as you. The only question I have is... Does the window need to be in exactly the same position on re-assembly or can the mechanism be reset somehow if for example the window is installed 1/2 way down? - Thanks.
You can install in any position. To recalibrate disconnect the battery, on reconnect it will lower back window, then turn on ignition and press up window switch don’t stop until it gets to the top +1 sec.
Hi thanks for a great video I've changed my front two and now the tailgate, but after installing it I'm getting three beeps from the dash when I try to send it up. Any experience with this?
After watching your video i tried to fix my window too and must say that its a real pain if you are using another kit(there are multiple kits for example your kit uses the latch on the white part to actually ease the assembly mine had a pin hole instead) i tried assembly for about 5 hours and now i cant get the window go down enough when opening the backdoor window plus it sterted to do some grinding noise that i can locate(i think a cable is grinding to the window like you warned at video)
If possible it is best to test the motor and mechanism off the car where you can test it working to both extreme positions. Then you can see if there are any problems and what is causing it. You need patience (which you seem to have having spent 5 hours on it!) but also you need to try and analyse what might be causing any problems. Maybe take it all apart and start again...
@@comeinhandynow today worked a bit again on the door, i used some cable clips to bundle cables and washers on the carriers as it was the cause of the grinding sound(car was hit from back so metal plate was bent) but only issue that i am unable to fix is the carriers not being at the same level with the cable feeling a bit loose possibly preventing the door from opening without enough clearence. I changed all other windows myself as all of them snapped at some time. And lastly my car started to give traction control+ slope light error possibly as you said in a video from brake sensor. Man i hate and love this car so much :D
See if there is a way to reduce the slack, like that pin I put through a drilled hole in the video. If the slack is reduced the window should be able to pull down enough. The good news is that the brake switch is easy and cheap to replace. It’ll be worth the satisfaction of having fixed it when it’s done!
Hi there, have you had any issues after installing the roll pin or can you foresee anything that may become a problem with it due to wear and tear? Thanks Ash.
I have the same problem. My freelancer built in 1996. As I open the page you are proposing there are many similar parts. Which one you have chosen ,please
@@comeinhandynow Thank you I was repairing the side door, and I had a lot of problem, the cables were too long and the clamp at the ends of the cables was not the same thickness, watching your video everything matched without corrections
hi my rear window went down quite slow but now it wont go up it starts to go up then goes back down even with my finger on button can you help please thanks
Could be a cable problem needing replacing like in this video. If your battery has recently gone flat or disconnected then be aware that the rear window will go back down after raising until it is recalibrated by raising it all the way up to the top and holding the up button for a couple more seconds, after which it will stay up.
@@comeinhandynow the13 mill nut at the bottom of the runner has a Torx socket in the bolt by adjusting this it moves the top of the window on to the water seal
Thank you for posting your very helpful video. I have bought a scrap freelander for a keen grandson to work on. We bought the kit you recommended and replaced the cables. We did a test on motor (up and down) with a battery, refitted the assembly but found that the window only goes down. Neither the up switch or the tailgate catch switch will operate the window. Do you have any ideas?
Hello there can you maybe help I have replaced cables but and window goes up to the end. It is doing a bit of noice on the end like some tension on eMotor. Thing is when window gets up there is some biping in car and it goes down again to bottom is there some sonsore on top which tells car glass is up
If it goes down again to the bottom then it needs setting up by pressing and keep pressing the up button until it goes to the top and keep pressing for couple of seconds afterwards. It should then stay there and work properly. If you have noise from the cables, it is worth checking they are routed properly, especially around the motor bobbin. You can test the motor and cables with the whole mechanism off the car to check it.
@@comeinhandynow I will pull it out again tomorrow thing is u can hear noice like last 2 inches should I just keep holding button because if I don't hold it window just goes down to fast and u are not getting it up buy just tabbing a button
@@Mr-Axe-Tv When the power is disconnected, the window controller needs resetting. It will go all the down first on its own. Assuming everything is connected and wired correctly then you reset it by pressing the up button until it gets to the top, plus a bit longer.
Thank you for this excellent video: one of the most explanatory of its type that I have watched. I installed a replacement tailgate regulator (reusing the original motor) and found the same behaviour that your video showed - that instead of the window lowering half inch from depressing the door latch, the cable and spring simply tensioned. I installed a pin per the video advice, making sure it was snug for the most extended spring position. However now, I still get the door actuator click sound and can see the cable tension but the window does not lower to clear the trim. I have performed the battery disconnect/recalibrate procedure. Is there some other component failure or adjustment that likely remains?
Thanks, That is tricky to diagnose remotely. If the window is still not lowering enough, but still lowers a bit, then it sounds like there is still too much slack in the cable, that needs removing. Maybe reposition the extra pin...?
@@comeinhandynow Thanks. Yes, with door open and lock in simulated closed position I can see the cable tension and window physically respond very slightly to that tension but not lowering. I have the pin in what seems the fully extended position of the plastic (approx 1-inch). Is it possible that my regulator replacement is not per OEM spec? It was a complete regulator with slides, cable and gear assembly ready for mounting to original motor.
@@williamimrie8231 All I can suggest is try and work out what the problem is. Some suggestions: Is it possible that it is related to the fact that the door is not actually closed, only simulated, so maybe the window is a slightly different height. Has the window been calibrated by moving it down and then up all the way and keep pressing the up button for a few seconds (this has to be done after a battery disconnect, I’m assuming this recalibration also works if battery wasn’t disconnected). Can you hear the motor turn for the right amount of time (0.5 secs or so) and is it possible there is still slack in the cable somewhere. What did it do without the pin for comparison? Does this indicate that the pin is needed in a different position? I hope you can work it out.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for your continued help. I had tested with door in actual, as well as simulated, closed position. No difference. Had also performed battery disconnect and recalibration a few times, including a fresh repeat now. When I re-examine the cable movement while door is in simulated closed position I see that there is indeed a small gap (approx 1/4 inch) behind my pin, which closes as the cable tensions. Before I installed the pin the plastic ratchet and spring fully compressed in response to the door latch. I could try again with a new pin hole 1/4 inch closer but it took a lot of effort, with help of second pair of hands, to extend the ratchet fully enough for drilling/installing this pin against the flange face. My conclusion now is that I should seek a LR OEM unit integral with motor. This Freelander has given me 45k trouble-free miles since new and this is first required repair of any kind, so seems worth obtaining the genuine replacement that does not require adaptation. Once again, many thanks for the excellent video, explanations, and follow-up.
See if removing the motor and rail bolts helps you get more access. You could also try cutting through the cables if you are going to replace it anyhow.
@@comeinhandynow thanks very much.. I cut the top wire and it released it straight away. Next question if you don't mind. I tried to change the oil filter today but the little bolts holding the oil filter cover in place are all rounded (Apart from one).. Have you got any wisdom you can share for me to overcome it? Thanks again
@@thirtiesandfree You’ve got me confused there, the oil filter on both the 1.8 and td4 are screw on filters. Do you mean the lower engine cover? In general with rounded bolts try some mole grips or stillson wrench ( search on amazon for that amzn.to/3sKSydY ) or grin d the head down to the next smallest socket size, hammer on if necessary for a tight fit
@@comeinhandynow sorry I got mixed up. It was the crank case filter that I couldn't get to. But managed it today with a bolt extractor kit. OK very last question and sorry for keep pestering you. I've seen in one of your videos how to check the gearbox oil but I'm not sure where the filler cap is for the gearbox oil.. Is it just the same bit or is there somewhere else? It's a 2006 2.0L manual. Thanks again 👍
i fixed the cables. looks very good. but the window goes only down up till the momentum is to big and than the motor goes off. it is not possible to go up with the window.
without the cables the motor also turns only in on Direktion! if i click down or up....the motor turn only in one direction! with a battery i can turn it in both directions. motor seems fine. what could be the broblem here? thanks
First check it all works off the car. Second you need to keep pressing the down till it goes all the way down, then keep pressing up till it is all the way up. Once that is done it is calibrated and should work normally.
@@comeinhandynow it goes down as if the hardtop is removed. i read out the CCU. the hardtop and the lock is properly closed. What could be the problem the window is going down? i am running out of ideas....thank you very much!
@@comeinhandynow when i just touch the Botton a little bit the window goes down all the way. wont go up! hardtop switch is ok! what causes the window to go down?
I made that role pin mode and it works but when i fully down window it broke that pice of metal that holding window.... That role pin will only works for only open and close rear door...not for fully open and close rear windows complete
@@comeinhandynow for now i just fix it with some spare parts from scrapyard...until i fond a new one i will disconect window switch from dashboard and use window only for open and close tailgate. In this case i can normaly use trunk. Cheers!
Bonjour. Merci pour cette vidéo, nous arrivons à reproduire avec câble tendu, nous remettons le tout dans la voiture. On débranche et rebranche la batterie, la fenêtre descend complètement et ensuite impossible de la remonter. Deux fois sur l’on essaie et nous n’arrivons pas à savoir ce que nous faisons de mal… si quelqu’un peut nous aider? Merci
Cela le fera jusqu'à ce que vous l'étalonnaz. Vous effectuez l'étalonnage en appuyant sur l'interrupteur jusqu'à ce qu'il aille jusqu'au sommet, maintenez quelques secondes de plus, puis la fenêtre doit rester là et travailler correctement.
Not quite true, there are worst cars and the freelander is easy to fix with great forum backup and cheap parts. I’ve done lots of repairs because I buy old cheap neglected ones.. Get one well looked after with service and warranty if you don’t service cars yourself. I’ve friends with bmw, Audi, merc, Porsche, japaneese(Nissan, Mitsubishi) and they are worse reliability plus expensive parts.
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time and trouble. Really helpful.
Thanks.
Wow the car is junk. You know they were cobbled-together from old Austin Maestro spares and were horrible cars but they do outperform the Lada Niva off road and they're great if you get one that looks nice and is in good overall working order. If you like these little cars, they're the best of Land-Rovers.
Excellent video! After the reinstall we also did the following procedure:
Disarm the anti-theft alarm system.
Disconnect the vehicle battery.
Wait 5 seconds.
Reconnect the vehicle battery.
The CCU will now drive the tail door window to the fully lowered position.
Turn the ignition switch to the 'ignition' position.
Press and hold the tail door window switch in the 'Up' position until the window has reached the fully closed position.
The tail door window should now be calibrated. If calibration has failed, a warning buzzer will sound.
Thanks and thanks for your input.
Thanks for the video it was a great help, one thing I would is: When the spool and the cables are off, put the motor back in and wind it down to the bottom, and position the window sliders at the bottom of the supports. best of luck to the next guy that tries.
Cheers and well done.
Thanks for the comprehensive video. That's about the last thing I'm gonna fix when the cylinder head has completely new gaskets, water pump and cooling ;-)
Cheers, good luck.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks! The main quest will be replacing missing or terribly wrong placed bolts 😂Discovered wrong bolts at the air filter housing and missing bolts at some piping parallel to the starter. Cheers mate! 🍻
Been uploading a short of my beloved 'Goldfinger'
Mine just made a noise and clunk this evening and I got 3 beeps, also my rear demister isn’t working now, so I’ll investigate tomorrow with confidence after watch this video.
A big thank you once again.
Stay well.
Ash from Scotland 👍
Thanks. Best wishes for success!
Hello sir, greetings from Costa Rica 🇨🇷, first of all I thank you very much for your videos, you have helped me too much, since here it is very difficult to get spare parts and the repairs are very expensive. Thanks to your videos I have made some repairs to my Freelander 👨🏾🔧. Now in a few days I must change the window cables, I am just waiting for the arrival of the repair kit.
Greetings. Well done on your DIY, keep up the good work.
Exactly the repair I was looking for, thank you for the upload. Don't know how I would have got the old cables off without undoing the back of the motor (that cover plate had me mystified).
Cheers
Great video. Very useful and well shot and explained.
Thanks.
Very nice modification, I replaced a cable on one I had ...and the damn window would not release for opening. I sold the car with that job still to be resolved.
Thanks. P.S. now on facebook as well facebook.com/comeinhandynow
Excellent video, thank you. Replaced the entire regulator today but needed to reuse the motor and your video showed be how to do this, cheers
Thanks, well done.
Hi, thanks for the excellent video. Do you have any problem with water leaking into the car when it rain, especially at the tall window? Do you have any idea to fix it? I am in the Southern part of Thailand. Usually, we have 8 months of rain every year.
Yes that can be an issue as the rubber gets old, at some time I’ll do a video on fixing it. The trick is to look at where water runs inside and divert it with silicon seal guides to the outside lower edge. Also seal under the bottom plastic boot cover.
Thankyou , I have just successfully done the job , with a few to and fros to this video
Well done!
Absolutely brilliant video tutorial! I followed it and it worked at all. Thank you very much indeed for your time and for sharing with us :)
Great. Thanks for the feedback
Thx buddy ! That bloddy pin roll take me all saturday and doesn`t see what`s wrong with window...I will modify like in your tutorial. Cheers
Thanks, It's working again, but the rear wiper now is working by itself. I disconnected and reconnect, but it's still doing it. Any ideas?
Weird, check for any damage to the motor or wiring. It could be that the bit on the motor that keeps it running until it is in park position got jolted/damaged and is making it run always.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks! The other thing I'm not getting right is the window positioning with the clamps. For some reason is not going down correctly when opening the door. It gets stuck, but it seems the motor is doing its work, so, with a little pressure, it comes down. Any advice?
Thanks a lot !!!!
Cheers
Hello! I'm Nicoló, I'm Italian waiting from balearic island. Thank you so much for this video!
I own a freelander 2003 and I have the same problem with the tailgate window. I was wondering if you have any tricks to understand if the engine is broke or just the wires.
Thank you!
*writing
It is usually just the cables that have rusted and snapped. You will have to take the motor out and remove / unjam the cables to see if the motor works when you push the up/down button.
Thanks! I'll let you know.
Can you tell me why is water collected in the tool tray underneath the tool tray cover. Great video keep up the good working.
It seeps past the door seals and runs inwards to the tray from the bottom. Look when it rains. You can stop it by making guide channels out of silicon seal to guide water out of the door rather than into the tray. One day I might do a video on it.
Thanks
Thanks for your reply I look forward to watching the silicone repair video keep up the good work 👌
Hi Sir,
In my 2007 model, I’m experiencing the following issue: tail window slides up and down rather well and when I press the handle, it goes down the right amount (correctly). The issue comes when I close the door, most of the times window doesn’t slide up and remain opened and when it apparently works correctly, open door lamp on dash is on.
Did you hear something about this kind of issue and may you kindly suggest me what can cause it and a possibly way to fix it?
Thank you in advance.
That must be the switch in the door lock that is a bit gummed up. Have a look at my recent video on my channel on the rear door.
Thanks! Perfecto video!
Thanks
I need that roll pin mod. Thank you!
Glad to help.
My rear window is stuck in the fully up position (can hear motor running) - I have ordered the same kit as you. The only question I have is... Does the window need to be in exactly the same position on re-assembly or can the mechanism be reset somehow if for example the window is installed 1/2 way down? - Thanks.
You can install in any position. To recalibrate disconnect the battery, on reconnect it will lower back window, then turn on ignition and press up window switch don’t stop until it gets to the top +1 sec.
@@comeinhandynow Thankyou for taking the time to answer. Much appreciated!
Excellent video thanks
Cheers
Hi thanks for a great video I've changed my front two and now the tailgate, but after installing it I'm getting three beeps from the dash when I try to send it up. Any experience with this?
Thanks. Did you keep pressing the up button until it was all the way up plus a second or two? It neeeds that to calibrate it from what i remember.
@@comeinhandynow ah, apparently I needed the engine on for it to go up the first time.. now it's calibrated and working perfectly :)) thanks again!
After watching your video i tried to fix my window too and must say that its a real pain if you are using another kit(there are multiple kits for example your kit uses the latch on the white part to actually ease the assembly mine had a pin hole instead) i tried assembly for about 5 hours and now i cant get the window go down enough when opening the backdoor window plus it sterted to do some grinding noise that i can locate(i think a cable is grinding to the window like you warned at video)
If possible it is best to test the motor and mechanism off the car where you can test it working to both extreme positions. Then you can see if there are any problems and what is causing it. You need patience (which you seem to have having spent 5 hours on it!) but also you need to try and analyse what might be causing any problems.
Maybe take it all apart and start again...
@@comeinhandynow today worked a bit again on the door, i used some cable clips to bundle cables and washers on the carriers as it was the cause of the grinding sound(car was hit from back so metal plate was bent) but only issue that i am unable to fix is the carriers not being at the same level with the cable feeling a bit loose possibly preventing the door from opening without enough clearence. I changed all other windows myself as all of them snapped at some time. And lastly my car started to give traction control+ slope light error possibly as you said in a video from brake sensor. Man i hate and love this car so much :D
See if there is a way to reduce the slack, like that pin I put through a drilled hole in the video. If the slack is reduced the window should be able to pull down enough. The good news is that the brake switch is easy and cheap to replace. It’ll be worth the satisfaction of having fixed it when it’s done!
Hi there, have you had any issues after installing the roll pin or can you foresee anything that may become a problem with it due to wear and tear?
Thanks
Ash.
No issues on mine.
I have the same problem. My freelancer built in 1996. As I open the page you are proposing there are many similar parts. Which one you have chosen ,please
I don’t think it matters that much but I’ll have a look through my purchases if still listed.
@@comeinhandynow Thank you
I was repairing the side door, and I had a lot of problem, the cables were too long and the clamp at the ends of the cables was not the same thickness, watching your video everything matched without corrections
@@ZdzislawWolski you have the cables the wrong way round or the wrong cables.
grate video mate would not have been done without this video so like a sub to you sir
Thanks
hi my rear window went down quite slow but now it wont go up it starts to go up then goes back down even with my finger on button can you help please thanks
Could be a cable problem needing replacing like in this video. If your battery has recently gone flat or disconnected then be aware that the rear window will go back down after raising until it is recalibrated by raising it all the way up to the top and holding the up button for a couple more seconds, after which it will stay up.
So how do I drop the tailgate glass as mine has failed in the upmost position and does not drop even when I try to open the tailgate door.
That is tricky. I think the only option you are left with is to try and force the door open but the risk is of breaking the glass.
is there a fix or what to check for if the tailgate window is 'too wobbly' when open - or bounces back if tailgate gets slammed shut?
Take off the internal back door cover and check that all the bolts for the window rail and motor are in place and tight.
@@comeinhandynow the13 mill nut at the bottom of the runner has a Torx socket in the bolt by adjusting this it moves the top of the window on to the water seal
Thank you for posting your very helpful video. I have bought a scrap freelander for a keen grandson to work on. We bought the kit you recommended and replaced the cables. We did a test on motor (up and down) with a battery, refitted the assembly but found that the window only goes down. Neither the up switch or the tailgate catch switch will operate the window. Do you have any ideas?
You need to calibrate the window by pressing the up switch until it is all the way up and then a couple seconds.
@@comeinhandynow ok thanks for reply, its operating now
@@rawindridge Great!
Hello there can you maybe help I have replaced cables but and window goes up to the end.
It is doing a bit of noice on the end like some tension on eMotor.
Thing is when window gets up there is some biping in car and it goes down again to bottom
is there some sonsore on top which tells car glass is up
If it goes down again to the bottom then it needs setting up by pressing and keep pressing the up button until it goes to the top and keep pressing for couple of seconds afterwards. It should then stay there and work properly. If you have noise from the cables, it is worth checking they are routed properly, especially around the motor bobbin. You can test the motor and cables with the whole mechanism off the car to check it.
@@comeinhandynow I will pull it out again tomorrow thing is u can hear noice like last 2 inches should I just keep holding button because if I don't hold it window just goes down to fast and u are not getting it up buy just tabbing a button
@@Mr-Axe-Tv When the power is disconnected, the window controller needs resetting. It will go all the down first on its own. Assuming everything is connected and wired correctly then you reset it by pressing the up button until it gets to the top, plus a bit longer.
@@comeinhandynow It works thanks a lot :)
Hello :) The tailgate window on my td4 freelander is jammed in. Not sure what the problem is. Please help !
Try and dismantle it. Hopefully the video will help.... Might be a snapped cable. Repair kits are cheap.
Thank you for this excellent video: one of the most explanatory of its type that I have watched. I installed a replacement tailgate regulator (reusing the original motor) and found the same behaviour that your video showed - that instead of the window lowering half inch from depressing the door latch, the cable and spring simply tensioned. I installed a pin per the video advice, making sure it was snug for the most extended spring position. However now, I still get the door actuator click sound and can see the cable tension but the window does not lower to clear the trim. I have performed the battery disconnect/recalibrate procedure. Is there some other component failure or adjustment that likely remains?
Thanks, That is tricky to diagnose remotely. If the window is still not lowering enough, but still lowers a bit, then it sounds like there is still too much slack in the cable, that needs removing. Maybe reposition the extra pin...?
@@comeinhandynow Thanks. Yes, with door open and lock in simulated closed position I can see the cable tension and window physically respond very slightly to that tension but not lowering. I have the pin in what seems the fully extended position of the plastic (approx 1-inch). Is it possible that my regulator replacement is not per OEM spec? It was a complete regulator with slides, cable and gear assembly ready for mounting to original motor.
@@williamimrie8231 All I can suggest is try and work out what the problem is. Some suggestions: Is it possible that it is related to the fact that the door is not actually closed, only simulated, so maybe the window is a slightly different height. Has the window been calibrated by moving it down and then up all the way and keep pressing the up button for a few seconds (this has to be done after a battery disconnect, I’m assuming this recalibration also works if battery wasn’t disconnected). Can you hear the motor turn for the right amount of time (0.5 secs or so) and is it possible there is still slack in the cable somewhere. What did it do without the pin for comparison? Does this indicate that the pin is needed in a different position? I hope you can work it out.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks for your continued help. I had tested with door in actual, as well as simulated, closed position. No difference. Had also performed battery disconnect and recalibration a few times, including a fresh repeat now. When I re-examine the cable movement while door is in simulated closed position I see that there is indeed a small gap (approx 1/4 inch) behind my pin, which closes as the cable tensions. Before I installed the pin the plastic ratchet and spring fully compressed in response to the door latch. I could try again with a new pin hole 1/4 inch closer but it took a lot of effort, with help of second pair of hands, to extend the ratchet fully enough for drilling/installing this pin against the flange face. My conclusion now is that I should seek a LR OEM unit integral with motor. This Freelander has given me 45k trouble-free miles since new and this is first required repair of any kind, so seems worth obtaining the genuine replacement that does not require adaptation.
Once again, many thanks for the excellent video, explanations, and follow-up.
Hi, I can't get the window to lower at all, which means I can't get to the bolts on the window clamps.. Any ideas?
See if removing the motor and rail bolts helps you get more access. You could also try cutting through the cables if you are going to replace it anyhow.
@@comeinhandynow thanks very much.. I cut the top wire and it released it straight away.
Next question if you don't mind.
I tried to change the oil filter today but the little bolts holding the oil filter cover in place are all rounded (Apart from one).. Have you got any wisdom you can share for me to overcome it? Thanks again
@@thirtiesandfree You’ve got me confused there, the oil filter on both the 1.8 and td4 are screw on filters. Do you mean the lower engine cover? In general with rounded bolts try some mole grips or stillson wrench ( search on amazon for that amzn.to/3sKSydY ) or grin d the head down to the next smallest socket size, hammer on if necessary for a tight fit
@@comeinhandynow sorry I got mixed up. It was the crank case filter that I couldn't get to. But managed it today with a bolt extractor kit.
OK very last question and sorry for keep pestering you.
I've seen in one of your videos how to check the gearbox oil but I'm not sure where the filler cap is for the gearbox oil.. Is it just the same bit or is there somewhere else?
It's a 2006 2.0L manual.
Thanks again 👍
Sorry, its 2005 not 2006.. If that makes any difference
i fixed the cables. looks very good. but the window goes only down up till the momentum is to big and than the motor goes off. it is not possible to go up with the window.
without the cables the motor also turns only in on Direktion! if i click down or up....the motor turn only in one direction! with a battery i can turn it in both directions. motor seems fine. what could be the broblem here? thanks
First check it all works off the car. Second you need to keep pressing the down till it goes all the way down, then keep pressing up till it is all the way up. Once that is done it is calibrated and should work normally.
@@comeinhandynow it goes down as if the hardtop is removed. i read out the CCU. the hardtop and the lock is properly closed. What could be the problem the window is going down? i am running out of ideas....thank you very much!
@@comeinhandynow when i just touch the Botton a little bit the window goes down all the way. wont go up! hardtop switch is ok! what causes the window to go down?
@@Syrocool probably the up/down switch. Either try a new one or take it apart and clean it up.
I made that role pin mode and it works but when i fully down window it broke that pice of metal that holding window.... That role pin will only works for only open and close rear door...not for fully open and close rear windows complete
The role pin only reduces the amount of slack in the cable system so shouldn’t really cause breakages.
@@comeinhandynow for now i just fix it with some spare parts from scrapyard...until i fond a new one i will disconect window switch from dashboard and use window only for open and close tailgate. In this case i can normaly use trunk. Cheers!
Thanks very much
You are welcome
Odjednom sve prestalo da radi zadnji zadnji brisac a staklo ne moze da se spusti
Bonjour. Merci pour cette vidéo, nous arrivons à reproduire avec câble tendu, nous remettons le tout dans la voiture. On débranche et rebranche la batterie, la fenêtre descend complètement et ensuite impossible de la remonter. Deux fois sur l’on essaie et nous n’arrivons pas à savoir ce que nous faisons de mal… si quelqu’un peut nous aider? Merci
Cela le fera jusqu'à ce que vous l'étalonnaz. Vous effectuez l'étalonnage en appuyant sur l'interrupteur jusqu'à ce qu'il aille jusqu'au sommet, maintenez quelques secondes de plus, puis la fenêtre doit rester là et travailler correctement.
do you wanna do mine.....very helpful thank you.
No thanks, it is just to help others. Glad it helps.
Полезное видео.забыли подключить подогрев
Thanks. Yes if you disconnect the window heater wires, then don’t forget to reconnect them afterwards.
Dont think i buy a freelander now got better things to do then be fixing the things all the time lifes too short.
Not quite true, there are worst cars and the freelander is easy to fix with great forum backup and cheap parts. I’ve done lots of repairs because I buy old cheap neglected ones.. Get one well looked after with service and warranty if you don’t service cars yourself. I’ve friends with bmw, Audi, merc, Porsche, japaneese(Nissan, Mitsubishi) and they are worse reliability plus expensive parts.
you are very magnificent
Thanks!
HOȚII!