Fuel pump driver module is a common issue with that model year. Also the fuel pump fuse (20Amp) under the hood. Third, under glove box open the right kick panel and make sure bottom electrical connector is flipped and locked shut; it has a habit of coming undone
I can't believe Ford made the fuel filter unserviceable! What a stupid fuggin design! Way to keep ya coming back for service! I'll be doing this soon! I just did the high pressure injection pump and still having the same random loss of power, stumbling and stalling problem and I'm over it! Great video man! Thanks for the pointers!
Have you replaced your spark plugs and ignition coils? Ive gone thru 4 sets of ignition coils in 50,000 miles. It’s just a common ecoboost problem. The humidity will kill them too. Just fixed my 2014 3.5
My 5.0 has a hard time starting after sitting for a few hours(plus worse when under 32 degrees), the longer it sits the longer I have to leave the key in the “on” position (up to 60 seconds) before it’ll crank up normal. Was tracing the issue thinking there’s something up with the MAF and evap purge valve but nope. Fuel pump related. Probably the check valve that’s leaking. Runs smooth once started and will start perfectly once the fuel pump catches up. Replaced my fuel pump module since it’s easy but Haven’t had a full cold start since I just replaced it. But good video. I was thinking of cutting a hole in the bed floor but due to where the bed cross member sits it’s practically pointless as it still wouldn’t allow for enough space to pull the pump.
Did you check #27 in your fuse box? Fuse mite be getting bad. My truck did the same and no problem after that but I also bout a newer bigger battery aswell
2:49 Watch out. When undoing the red clip be sure to get face or anything you don’t want sprayed by possibly high pressure gasoline. I know from experience. Literally just finished cleaning my shirt and face and hair at least i closed my eyes in time.
I cannot believe that I saw in another video someone taking the whole bed out because lowering the tank was a lot of work 😒😒😒. He literally had to use a crane to lift up the whole bed. Taking the whole freaking bed out😅😅😅. Meanwhile you lower the tank in about 20 mins or so!!! Great video man. I'm having trouble with mine, I feel that hesitant when I try to accelerate. Good video!!!
With 3 helper's avalable full time it's about the same. That's how I've seen it done by several experienced tech's at GM. But that's GM. I know some of these farmers can build up dust that's not fun from under. Ever seen an EVAP filter stopped up with dust?
Vapor-lock (type) problem is what I am having with my 2012 3.5L F-150. Won't hot restart until 30-40 minute cool-down period. This happens when I turn off the engine to refuel, etc, on longer trips, for say ~ 5-10 minutes (heat-soaking) it won't restart. Otherwise, the truck runs great. 163 thou miles. Have changed high pressure fuel pump, Ford put in new fuel injectors - both a big waste of money. Should I try the fuel tank pump?
I seem to be having the exact problem you are having. I have tried everything other than the fuel pump. Starts great on the cold start but a hot start, it seems to crank forever before it starts.
Did you have to drop/lower the exhaust to get up in there easier? I’m trying to do this same thing on my 2013 with a 5.0 and I physically can’t get up there, even being the twig I am.
It's the fuse/fuse holder. The fuse holder terminals are not rated for the current the pump draws. Ford used the little dinky fuse size. there is a service bulletin and a kit to move the wire to an unused fuse location in the larger size fusees. You will probably find the area around the original fuse is actually MELTED. Read the bulletin and get the kit. do the easy mod and this will probably fix your problem.
This happened to my 2014 F150. Bought the fuse relocation kit from Amazon for $60 bucks CDN installed it and it's been running since then. Also changed the fuel pump sensor on the frame member under the spare tire that was another $60 CDN from Ford.
Fuel filter is part of the fuel pump. When you take it out there will be two cylinders cast into the plastic. One houses the pump and one houses the filter. The filter can only be replaced by replacing the fuel pump.
I got this fuel delivery error code P0148...when accelerating the truck it fails and the PCM shows A/F 20 and A/F req 11 (load 75%)...do you think it's the fuel pump?...this only happens when I hit the full pedal.. if the mix is lean means the engine needs more fuel and I think the pump isnt sending all the fuel
Best practice, don't hit metal locking ring with something metal. Use a piece of wood or rubber mallet etc. Probably 1 in million chance but a spark close to the tank etc not ideal.
I hope you changed out the fuel pump control module before you pulled the trigger on a new fuel pump. Very informative however. Useful if I need to do it myself.
Ok...everyone keeps saying change the relay under the truck located where the spare tire is. I have a question. If the relay is bad, will the truck actually run, or not at all. HELP. My 2013 Ford will run, but skip under a load.
The relay was the very first part I changed when I started having issues. Turned out that new relay failed aswell, atleast according to Ford 🤷🏼♂️ As far as your issue, sounds like a misfire most of us all have had. Either die to bad coil packs and spark plugs or condensation in the intercooler or both. Ie got a few videos talking about it.
@@HitchinMitch thank you Mitch for the info...just replaced the fuel pump also while I was away...$600 gone and it's not run right. Question... If a fuse is blown, would it start. It will start and run, but the code P0087 pops up and it skips badly while driving
@@robertsapp2066 blown fuse would probably not let it start at all. There is also a high pressure fuel pump on top of the engine.ight want to check fuel filter. And line pressure.
Hey buddy...NEVER, EVER!!! Use a steel or iron screw driver to hit and lose the ring you will be generate a SPARK to ignite the gadoline gases!!! Allway use a bronze, hard wood or hard plastic...!!! !!!..B O O O M..!!!😅
Fuel pump driver module is a common issue with that model year. Also the fuel pump fuse (20Amp) under the hood. Third, under glove box open the right kick panel and make sure bottom electrical connector is flipped and locked shut; it has a habit of coming undone
I love lying on the concrete working under my truck. Nothing makes you feel more alive.
i cant wait until i can change it on concrete instead of mud and dirt. im tired of picking gravel from between my cheeks.
I can't believe Ford made the fuel filter unserviceable! What a stupid fuggin design! Way to keep ya coming back for service! I'll be doing this soon! I just did the high pressure injection pump and still having the same random loss of power, stumbling and stalling problem and I'm over it! Great video man! Thanks for the pointers!
Have you replaced your spark plugs and ignition coils? Ive gone thru 4 sets of ignition coils in 50,000 miles. It’s just a common ecoboost problem. The humidity will kill them too. Just fixed my 2014 3.5
@@jpaige1998 low pressure fuel pump solved the problem. They can have an internal seal issue where they randomly suck air.
Just mix fuel additive every now and then you'll be good
Thanks to this video, I just did it on my raptor. It only took me 18x as long.😂
My 5.0 has a hard time starting after sitting for a few hours(plus worse when under 32 degrees), the longer it sits the longer I have to leave the key in the “on” position (up to 60 seconds) before it’ll crank up normal. Was tracing the issue thinking there’s something up with the MAF and evap purge valve but nope. Fuel pump related. Probably the check valve that’s leaking. Runs smooth once started and will start perfectly once the fuel pump catches up. Replaced my fuel pump module since it’s easy but Haven’t had a full cold start since I just replaced it. But good video. I was thinking of cutting a hole in the bed floor but due to where the bed cross member sits it’s practically pointless as it still wouldn’t allow for enough space to pull the pump.
i have same issue did you fix your problem?
I have the same issue
@@aldinmujacic7655 Did it to you?
Hope you got it fixed! Nothing worse than a intermittent failure, been there, not fun!
I have a 2013 mustang with the capless tank. I had water in the tank mixed with the fuel. That was the problem!
How TF?!
@MR-MR-ud5oo the problem was..it was a convertible also
So what was the actual conclusion ? Did you find out? What did you do prior to replacing the fuel pump?
Did you check #27 in your fuse box? Fuse mite be getting bad. My truck did the same and no problem after that but I also bout a newer bigger battery aswell
so what did u disconnect at the back kinda important to show us that
How do you reconnect the filler neck to the top of the tank. I cannot get it reconnected. In ready to pull the bed off.
So what was wrong with the f150 ?
2:49 Watch out. When undoing the red clip be sure to get face or anything you don’t want sprayed by possibly high pressure gasoline. I know from experience. Literally just finished cleaning my shirt and face and hair at least i closed my eyes in time.
Was it the mass airflow sensor?
Great video. Did you use aftermarket or Motorcraft pump?
I cannot believe that I saw in another video someone taking the whole bed out because lowering the tank was a lot of work 😒😒😒. He literally had to use a crane to lift up the whole bed. Taking the whole freaking bed out😅😅😅. Meanwhile you lower the tank in about 20 mins or so!!! Great video man. I'm having trouble with mine, I feel that hesitant when I try to accelerate. Good video!!!
With 3 helper's avalable full time it's about the same. That's how I've seen it done by several experienced tech's at GM. But that's GM. I know some of these farmers can build up dust that's not fun from under. Ever seen an EVAP filter stopped up with dust?
Vapor-lock (type) problem is what I am having with my 2012 3.5L F-150. Won't hot restart until 30-40 minute cool-down period. This happens when I turn off the engine to refuel, etc, on longer trips, for say ~ 5-10 minutes (heat-soaking) it won't restart. Otherwise, the truck runs great. 163 thou miles.
Have changed high pressure fuel pump, Ford put in new fuel injectors - both a big waste of money. Should I try the fuel tank pump?
I seem to be having the exact problem you are having. I have tried everything other than the fuel pump. Starts great on the cold start but a hot start, it seems to crank forever before it starts.
Did you have to drop/lower the exhaust to get up in there easier? I’m trying to do this same thing on my 2013 with a 5.0 and I physically can’t get up there, even being the twig I am.
It's the fuse/fuse holder. The fuse holder terminals are not rated for the current the pump draws. Ford used the little dinky fuse size. there is a service bulletin and a kit to move the wire to an unused fuse location in the larger size fusees. You will probably find the area around the original fuse is actually MELTED. Read the bulletin and get the kit. do the easy mod and this will probably fix your problem.
This happened to my 2014 F150. Bought the fuse relocation kit from Amazon for $60 bucks CDN installed it and it's been running since then. Also changed the fuel pump sensor on the frame member under the spare tire that was another $60 CDN from Ford.
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO. Thanks dude!
Does it have a fuel filter at another location on top of sending until and pump
He’s not much on answering questions
Fuel filter is part of the fuel pump. When you take it out there will be two cylinders cast into the plastic. One houses the pump and one houses the filter. The filter can only be replaced by replacing the fuel pump.
@@oby-1607such a dumb design. Vehicles should still have a serviceable fuel filter along the fuel line system
How full was you fuel tank?
Yeah, what's with the RUSTY driveshaft on my 2014 w/82K miles? It's almost flaking off. Chinese "Dirt Steel"?
Good Learning Experience
I got this fuel delivery error code P0148...when accelerating the truck it fails and the PCM shows A/F 20 and A/F req 11 (load 75%)...do you think it's the fuel pump?...this only happens when I hit the full pedal.. if the mix is lean means the engine needs more fuel and I think the pump isnt sending all the fuel
Did you check the fuel pressure by putting gauge on the fuel line?
There may be blocked fuel line.
Did You try the fuel pump rekay module above spare tire , before fuel pump
Best practice, don't hit metal locking ring with something metal. Use a piece of wood or rubber mallet etc. Probably 1 in million chance but a spark close to the tank etc not ideal.
Did you figure it out, it might be the fuel pump driver module, is located on the crossbar above the spare tire driver side
As this an ecoboost? I have the 2013 with a code that fuel pump is faulty
Yea, mine is the 3.5 ecoboost
What code is that ?
Tried changing fuel pump driver relay? May help.
How did you connected the gas pipe to the tank ?
Hey buddy! Love your channel. I bought a 2011 eco boost and was curious as to what exhaust work you’ve done. Mine is too quiet lol
I have a full video of installing the full exhaust system but in short, 3" mbrp cat back, spd high flow cats, and ams turbo adapters.
change the fuel lines on the tank the transducer is bad its the black inline sensor on fuel line black square plug in sensor
I hope you changed out the fuel pump control module before you pulled the trigger on a new fuel pump. Very informative however. Useful if I need to do it myself.
Are u getting p0087
Thats qhat Ive been getting
I’m changing mine right now ! What a bloody pain the the a$$ too ! Nothing like working In the heat and on the ground too ! 😞😡
How did you get around the exhaust?
Too bad Fordtechmakuloco is backed up for months.
Better a concrete driveway than gravel
I’m changing mine right now ! What a bloody pain in the a$$ too ! Nothing like working in the heat and on the ground too ! SMH 😞😡😞
Ok...everyone keeps saying change the relay under the truck located where the spare tire is. I have a question. If the relay is bad, will the truck actually run, or not at all. HELP. My 2013 Ford will run, but skip under a load.
The relay was the very first part I changed when I started having issues. Turned out that new relay failed aswell, atleast according to Ford 🤷🏼♂️ As far as your issue, sounds like a misfire most of us all have had. Either die to bad coil packs and spark plugs or condensation in the intercooler or both. Ie got a few videos talking about it.
@@HitchinMitch just changed the relay, and now it will not start.
@@robertsapp2066 oh boy... Either the new one is faulty or it popped a fuse. Those are my guesses.
@@HitchinMitch thank you Mitch for the info...just replaced the fuel pump also while I was away...$600 gone and it's not run right. Question... If a fuse is blown, would it start. It will start and run, but the code P0087 pops up and it skips badly while driving
@@robertsapp2066 blown fuse would probably not let it start at all. There is also a high pressure fuel pump on top of the engine.ight want to check fuel filter. And line pressure.
If only I had proper tools to lower my FULL TANK.
You have bad luck with it. , I can only hope mines stays working .
I’m at 267k 🤦♂️ this’ll be me tomorrow morning
Hey buddy...NEVER, EVER!!! Use a steel or iron screw driver to hit and lose the ring you will be generate a SPARK to ignite the gadoline gases!!! Allway use a bronze, hard wood or hard plastic...!!!
!!!..B O O O M..!!!😅
Drive it aroun
It’s a ford sell it and get a dodge😂😂
Tick Tick Tick
A Dodge????🙀🙀🙀🙀🙀🤮