Another technical masterclass of DIY automotive repair that can be undertaken on one's own driveway 👍 i must confess that the wanking off of the ball joint was a master stroke Sir Tim 👌👌
Did mine on my own about a year and a half ago, struggled like hell on my back on the drive with it up on axle stands. Every bolt was solid with rust, and surprised how heavy the boxes are on these (or I am getting weaker with old age🤣), used the same make as you did, blueprint, got my kit off Amazon at the time for about £41 delivered. I too have always lined them up by eye, but due to the struggle and weight, plus I should have had it off the ground higher on the stands than I did, I made a tool using 15mm copper pipe and insulation tape to align it. Worked a treat, I could not get over how tight the driveshafts are in the box, tried bars, cold chisels with hammer, and eventually they came out. Glad I won't have to do that job again soon, different ball game if you have a ramp with it in the air etc. Mine was on the original 170mm clutch from new, but loads of trips to Devon going up the racecourse hill killed it, and it snapped in the usual places of the metal straps on the pressure plate. I found with the bigger 190mm blueprint clutch, the biting point is much lower to the ground with the cable adjusted correctly with the free play. Lots of swearing from me when I was doing mine, so perhaps you edited yours out😂😂😂😂
I found the exact same thing with the boxes getting heavier. I used to work on cars and trucks, these days I work on motorcycles and for fuck sake I’m a shadow of what I used to be! All the stuff you said I found to be true actually, they’re not a bad one to do for a fwd, I’ve always hated fwd clutch jobs but them drive shafts we’re a bastard to get out
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yeah totally agree, looks like you handled the box from above, bent over the car, but I was so fucked by the time I came to put the box back in, I ended up having to put the box on a trolley jack to lift off the ground, then struggle to crawl on my back on gravel, then get the box of my trolley jack to lift and get in at the same time, would be much easier if you had another person to just help with the lift back in😂😂keep up the great vids, always enjoy watching them, yes, and that foot tapping always has me tapping along, yes😂😂😂😂👍
I'll be doing this to my wife's car in 2 weeks time. The good thing is that I have a colleague of mine who done clutch changes numerous times before. Other than that I do worry about rusted-to-death bolts...
Man this takes me back in time. The level of dissolving .. strewth. Worst part of working on cars like this is the fact every bolt and screw is rounded off and rusted tight.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Not to teach you to suck eggs, but you can disconnect the ball joint, without using the ball joint splitter which damages the rubber. Once the wheel is off, turn the wheel towards the curb, which will give you room to see the back of the Hubb, when you see the two and a split in the middle, you can use a chisel not a sharp one, or a very big screwdriver and hit it with a copper hammer to force open the join and alow the joint to drop without to much effort and goes back easier too, as long as it is lined up. Good video.
Never attempted a clutch change before 🤔 but your upolad definitely gives me hope 👀 Failing that I could have it trailered up north and pay you too do it 😂👌
I know I'm 2 years late to this party. With the removal of the driveshaft by releasing the balljoint, and that you were going to remove the wishbone anyway - you could have just removed the two wishbone bolts and left the balljoint in place. You could then swing the wishbone out of the way and remove the driveshaft. I've done this many times in my Pug 205 as the balljoints are always a PITA to split and easy to knacker, so just removing the two inner wishbone bolts is a lot easier. All a bit moot with yours as the balljoint was knackered anyway, so it had to come out. As for a lack of clutch alignment tool, I've used things like extension bars or large bolts wrapped in tape to do the job.
@@davemar73 yea that is one way to do it if you’re worried about damaging the ball joints. I’ve had clutch alignment tools in the past and always preferred to do it by feel tbh.
hi mate, followed your steps on this along with a few other videos and managed to get the gearbox out and new clutch in, with everything put together (aside from the starter motor which is still technically only held on by one screw) i went to start the car and turn on the ignion… nothing. when i turned the key nothint happened. My apple carplay screen came on and all the lights worked but the dash screen which shows the trip comp and the fuel guage didnt turn on, then when i took the key out the engine management light stayed on (even with the car locked and the ignition off) when i thrn the key nothing happened, the fuel pumo didnt prime and the starter didnt even turn over. what could be the cause of this???? thank you!!!!
Did my aygo clutch last week also fitted the Blue print has anyone put big mileage on one yet? The owners club say fit the Blue print and you will never have another problem
Got a squeal coming through when accelerator pressed and no foot on clutch. Thought it was fan belt and watched it video to do that then changed my belt. Now Google telling me it’s thrust bearing or pilot bearing. Does this have a pilot bearing (couldn’t find the part online)? One person said it’s a thrust bearing stuck to clutch housing. Thinking to follow your tutorial to open up and change the clutch. Would change the pilot bearing but can’t see the part online - do you know what it is please?
@@mrutubeuk pretty sure there’s no pilot/spigot bearing on these if I remember correctly. The noise is likely your thrust bearing if the sound goes away when you press the clutch though.
Really hoping you have some tips for me here Tim, my clutch went to the deck when I was on my way to work this morning, I have my suspicions that it’s not the clutch that’s failed but the release bearing. The clutch got done early last year about 45k miles ago, it wasn’t slipping or giving me any hassle but the clutch pedal has always been creaky and feeling like it’s under strain as im pretty sure it didn’t get done at the last clutch replacement. Have you any tips for me to go about diagnosing it before I drop the box and mess up the ball joints on my brand new arms
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos haven’t had a proper scour at it yet, got out the car and instantly checked the cable. Still under tension and sat snug in the divet on the release lever
Need to replace the clutch on my shittybug. Do you have a video showing where to lift using a trolley jack safely to put the axel stands under like this?
Hi! Youve been saving me lots of cash so far showing me how to fix the bug.. thanks! now the clutch release fork (think its called, part from the cable down into the gearbox, which presses te release bearing) suddenly snapped off on my car. Would you say that it is possible to change that part just by pulling it out, or do I have to take off the gearbox like you do in the video to extract/change it? Hope you understand what i mean.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Cheers for quick answer! Yea, it snapped right off during driving, snapped in the middle of the square metal part which connects the cable to the ”rod” thing that goes into the gearbox. The clutch pedal just became totally loose... lucky I had a parking lot just beside me so it was just to roll in and stop.
Cool video showing that repairs like this can be done on stands. Just wondering how are the cheap Ebay £25 arms / wishbones doing? Going to do the clutch on the weekend but might also replace the arms if the ball joints look bad. Thanks :-)
Bravo! Io ho una Aygo seconda serie, pensi sia tutto uguale? Forse lo hai detto, ma purtroppo non capisco l'inglese, come hai fatto a centrare la frizione? Ciao alla prossima!
ciao, la seconda serie aygo è quasi lo stesso motore e quasi la stessa macchina quindi immagino che sia molto simile, ma non ne ho mai fatto uno quindi non posso esserne sicuro.
Yes it is I’m going to sleep now night night and I’ve got the same Radio as what you had, but the original Radio but different he controls but looks similar, but yours are more modern than mine
The ball joints are pressed into the wishbone on ur model, so you could have just bought a ball joint, unless some cretin welded the existing one to the wishbone when it was last replaced??
The one I took out had probably only done about 30k miles. It was an Exedy too which I put that in a few years ago but it’s my fault it failed. Clutch life is massively dependant on driving style 😂 It’s unlikely you’ll need a flywheel. They are just a solid flywheel oh these that rarely fail. Ideally you should resurface a flywheel, but it’s not usually actually necessary and rarely ever gets done tbh
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Cheers for that. I've heard of them chewing up clutches by 30,000 miles, but I drive like a granny so I've done ok. I couldn't even find out if it was a dual mass job. Thanks for confirming it's a solid one. It was doing great until it developed a shimmy under load at 60-65 mph. New wheel bearings, tyres balanced, still shaking it's head off. Local fitter thinks it might be clutch/flywheel or driveshafts. Bugger!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Yep - 2500-3000 revs, 55-65mph. Under load, but stops when you back off the throttle. Feels like a wheel out of balance, but never had one that stops off load or isn't affected by swapping the wheels around. I'm thinking warped flywheel/knackered clutch plate or bent driveshaft. Funny how it started immediately after getting a wheel bearing done... I'm beginnig to think they dropped a driveshaft off the bloody ramp!😂
@@danjames4086 I was going g to suggest the drive shaft. I recently changed both of mine for similar reason, will be in an upcoming vid. Inner joints were knackered and caused similar issue to what you described
I cheated and got mine replaced by the yokel garage, when I got the car back I noticed that the wheels hadn't been off (my own zip ties still on wheel trims) - apparently you can just move the engine to one side to create a gap just wide enough to get the clutch out and a new one in. Having said that the bloody thing failed after a couple of weeks so maybe it's a shit way of doing it - if indeed it's not just a myth!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Still can't work it out, the release bearing started squarking so I complained - wasn't a total unit failure but they still agreed to replace it. Came back fine and without the judder - yet wheels still hadn't been off! Question is: if they hadn't actually replaced the clutch at all then how did they get the release bearing to shut up? Answers on a postcard please...!
@@anthonyenglish9298 you could do it without taking the wheels off by disconnecting the inside Wishbone mounts and pulling the whole lot to get the shaft out, but it would be more awkward and makes no sense
Oh sign me up ,,, interesting to see you dont lube your shaft ,,, an oily nose is something ive never done , but i use a smidge of tungsten di sulphide grease on the shaft and splines on the primary input shaft ... but just a smidge , I know threse two schools of thought but interesting your of the other opinion.
Bien hecho amigo, eh i can do a few jobs but dont think i would be able to do that !! That red cable with the perspex window/sleeve on it beside the battery, it drops down at 17.08 What is that for ?? Im restoring a 2001 merc slk and saw one of those under the battery, i ripped it out and threw it away !! Will i need it later ?? Ich habe auch deutsche nachbarn hier in spanien !
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos possibly but i dont know yet as the plug for the stereo doesnt fit the pioneer unit thats there. But i have a few things to fix before that !!
Another technical masterclass of DIY automotive repair that can be undertaken on one's own driveway 👍 i must confess that the wanking off of the ball joint was a master stroke Sir Tim 👌👌
Haha, it was a literal master stroke… sort of.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 🤣🤣
Grear job and showed all the bits we needed to see thanks.
Hope it helps, and thanks for watching!
Did mine on my own about a year and a half ago, struggled like hell on my back on the drive with it up on axle stands. Every bolt was solid with rust, and surprised how heavy the boxes are on these (or I am getting weaker with old age🤣), used the same make as you did, blueprint, got my kit off Amazon at the time for about £41 delivered. I too have always lined them up by eye, but due to the struggle and weight, plus I should have had it off the ground higher on the stands than I did, I made a tool using 15mm copper pipe and insulation tape to align it. Worked a treat, I could not get over how tight the driveshafts are in the box, tried bars, cold chisels with hammer, and eventually they came out. Glad I won't have to do that job again soon, different ball game if you have a ramp with it in the air etc. Mine was on the original 170mm clutch from new, but loads of trips to Devon going up the racecourse hill killed it, and it snapped in the usual places of the metal straps on the pressure plate.
I found with the bigger 190mm blueprint clutch, the biting point is much lower to the ground with the cable adjusted correctly with the free play. Lots of swearing from me when I was doing mine, so perhaps you edited yours out😂😂😂😂
I found the exact same thing with the boxes getting heavier. I used to work on cars and trucks, these days I work on motorcycles and for fuck sake I’m a shadow of what I used to be! All the stuff you said I found to be true actually, they’re not a bad one to do for a fwd, I’ve always hated fwd clutch jobs but them drive shafts we’re a bastard to get out
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yeah totally agree, looks like you handled the box from above, bent over the car, but I was so fucked by the time I came to put the box back in, I ended up having to put the box on a trolley jack to lift off the ground, then struggle to crawl on my back on gravel, then get the box of my trolley jack to lift and get in at the same time, would be much easier if you had another person to just help with the lift back in😂😂keep up the great vids, always enjoy watching them, yes, and that foot tapping always has me tapping along, yes😂😂😂😂👍
@@markslade9722 that’s how I normally used to do them when working on the floor, but this time I lifted it off my chest from underneath instead.
It was me who asked about the reverse switch. Thanks for remembering me lol.
I did the job, it was a successful mission.
Ahhh I knew someone asked me but couldn’t remember who.
I'll be doing this to my wife's car in 2 weeks time. The good thing is that I have a colleague of mine who done clutch changes numerous times before. Other than that I do worry about rusted-to-death bolts...
Be fine, just go with brute force and ignorance!
great video excellent detail loved watching and learning thank you for sharing all your hard work
Thanks for watching and hope you found it useful
Luverly commentary. Best talking hand I've seen
Thanks mate 🤣
Man this takes me back in time. The level of dissolving .. strewth. Worst part of working on cars like this is the fact every bolt and screw is rounded off and rusted tight.
Every fucking time lol
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Not to teach you to suck eggs, but you can disconnect the ball joint, without using the ball joint splitter which damages the rubber. Once the wheel is off, turn the wheel towards the curb, which will give you room to see the back of the Hubb, when you see the two and a split in the middle, you can use a chisel not a sharp one, or a very big screwdriver and hit it with a copper hammer to force open the join and alow the joint to drop without to much effort and goes back easier too, as long as it is lined up. Good video.
@@Gp863 yes. These are split ball joints not taper fit
Never attempted a clutch change before 🤔 but your upolad definitely gives me hope 👀
Failing that I could have it trailered up north and pay you too do it 😂👌
Took me over a year to find the time to do my own haha
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos
🤣😂😱👍
Really enjoyed this pal👍, thanks.
@@boxingday11 thanks mate. Good to hear
This is on my to do list in the next few months, thanks bud
It’s probably not as bad as I made it look tbh.
I know I'm 2 years late to this party. With the removal of the driveshaft by releasing the balljoint, and that you were going to remove the wishbone anyway - you could have just removed the two wishbone bolts and left the balljoint in place. You could then swing the wishbone out of the way and remove the driveshaft. I've done this many times in my Pug 205 as the balljoints are always a PITA to split and easy to knacker, so just removing the two inner wishbone bolts is a lot easier.
All a bit moot with yours as the balljoint was knackered anyway, so it had to come out.
As for a lack of clutch alignment tool, I've used things like extension bars or large bolts wrapped in tape to do the job.
@@davemar73 yea that is one way to do it if you’re worried about damaging the ball joints. I’ve had clutch alignment tools in the past and always preferred to do it by feel tbh.
Good job Tim nearly 3000 subscribers now
Cheers mate, I’m closing in on that ChrisFix guy!
Just the video I needed
Hopefully it’s of some use to someone lol
Another fab video sir 🎩
Thanks G
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos top notch 😁
Just outstanding
🙃
hi mate, followed your steps on this along with a few other videos and managed to get the gearbox out and new clutch in, with everything put together (aside from the starter motor which is still technically only held on by one screw) i went to start the car and turn on the ignion… nothing. when i turned the key nothint happened. My apple carplay screen came on and all the lights worked but the dash screen which shows the trip comp and the fuel guage didnt turn on, then when i took the key out the engine management light stayed on (even with the car locked and the ignition off) when i thrn the key nothing happened, the fuel pumo didnt prime and the starter didnt even turn over. what could be the cause of this???? thank you!!!!
Have you made sure to connect all the earths up? Forgetting them can cause weird shot to happen…
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thanks! it was indeed an earth! all good and working now
Nice electric gun looks like it has plenty of power what make is it please thanks great video
Milwaukee 💪
Did my aygo clutch last week also fitted the Blue print has anyone put big mileage on one yet? The owners club say fit the Blue print and you will never have another problem
BluePrint seek to be the go to option for a lot of people on these
Got a squeal coming through when accelerator pressed and no foot on clutch. Thought it was fan belt and watched it video to do that then changed my belt. Now Google telling me it’s thrust bearing or pilot bearing. Does this have a pilot bearing (couldn’t find the part online)? One person said it’s a thrust bearing stuck to clutch housing. Thinking to follow your tutorial to open up and change the clutch. Would change the pilot bearing but can’t see the part online - do you know what it is please?
@@mrutubeuk pretty sure there’s no pilot/spigot bearing on these if I remember correctly. The noise is likely your thrust bearing if the sound goes away when you press the clutch though.
Really hoping you have some tips for me here Tim, my clutch went to the deck when I was on my way to work this morning, I have my suspicions that it’s not the clutch that’s failed but the release bearing. The clutch got done early last year about 45k miles ago, it wasn’t slipping or giving me any hassle but the clutch pedal has always been creaky and feeling like it’s under strain as im pretty sure it didn’t get done at the last clutch replacement. Have you any tips for me to go about diagnosing it before I drop the box and mess up the ball joints on my brand new arms
@@jackdyet2902 have you checked the cable?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos haven’t had a proper scour at it yet, got out the car and instantly checked the cable. Still under tension and sat snug in the divet on the release lever
Need to replace the clutch on my shittybug. Do you have a video showing where to lift using a trolley jack safely to put the axel stands under like this?
I think I show that better in this vid iirc 🤔
th-cam.com/video/95Doq1FX4OU/w-d-xo.html
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos nice one cheers 🍻
Hi! Youve been saving me lots of cash so far showing me how to fix the bug.. thanks! now the clutch release fork (think its called, part from the cable down into the gearbox, which presses te release bearing) suddenly snapped off on my car. Would you say that it is possible to change that part just by pulling it out, or do I have to take off the gearbox like you do in the video to extract/change it? Hope you understand what i mean.
He mate. Yea it’s gearbox out to remove the clutch fork. Where has it snapped?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Cheers for quick answer! Yea, it snapped right off during driving, snapped in the middle of the square metal part which connects the cable to the ”rod” thing that goes into the gearbox. The clutch pedal just became totally loose... lucky I had a parking lot just beside me so it was just to roll in and stop.
Cool video showing that repairs like this can be done on stands. Just wondering how are the cheap Ebay £25 arms / wishbones doing? Going to do the clutch on the weekend but might also replace the arms if the ball joints look bad. Thanks :-)
Cheers mate. The ball joints seem ok so far 🤞
First 40 seconds in..... Who doesn't want a stiff knob in their hand when changing gear 🤣
This guy knows ⬆️
Bravo! Io ho una Aygo seconda serie, pensi sia tutto uguale? Forse lo hai detto, ma purtroppo non capisco l'inglese, come hai fatto a centrare la frizione? Ciao alla prossima!
ciao, la seconda serie aygo è quasi lo stesso motore e quasi la stessa macchina quindi immagino che sia molto simile, ma non ne ho mai fatto uno quindi non posso esserne sicuro.
Привет, как сцепление поживает? я себе nipparts установил, теперь переживаю что оно плохое и проживет не долго
Пока все хорошо, но я проехал на нем всего около 1000 миль.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Ну да, маловато, но не маловато для плохого сцепления, по этому будем держать кулачки что оно хорошее )
@@sevendey752 просто забей и надейся на лучшее
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos хех, так и придётся сделать 😁
I like that song that you played in the intro slip the clutch by Marty Mone I love that song
It’s a banger innit!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos yes
Yes it is I’m going to sleep now night night and I’ve got the same Radio as what you had, but the original Radio but different he controls but looks similar, but yours are more modern than mine
i had new clutch fitted now i have clutch judder in 1st gear
Could be a faulty clutch or maybe just needs to bed in
The ball joints are pressed into the wishbone on ur model, so you could have just bought a ball joint, unless some cretin welded the existing one to the wishbone when it was last replaced??
You remember that? 🤣
Yo, mah man, really important question, do you know if its possible to remove the Citroen C1 crankshaft from just under the car?
I mean like, technically it probably is but it I’m sure it wouldn’t be the easiest way to do it
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Lets go, time to ruin my whole weekend.
U should use that thumbnail as a thumbnail👍
@@aleksandergjengst782 or even better, one of my criminail toe nails 🤔
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos oh god 😂🔥🔥🔥
How many miles had it done before the new clutch?
Mine needs doing...at 67,000 miles. Shitting myself in case it's a problem with the flywheel ££££!
The one I took out had probably only done about 30k miles. It was an Exedy too which I put that in a few years ago but it’s my fault it failed. Clutch life is massively dependant on driving style 😂
It’s unlikely you’ll need a flywheel. They are just a solid flywheel oh these that rarely fail. Ideally you should resurface a flywheel, but it’s not usually actually necessary and rarely ever gets done tbh
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos
Cheers for that. I've heard of them chewing up clutches by 30,000 miles, but I drive like a granny so I've done ok.
I couldn't even find out if it was a dual mass job. Thanks for confirming it's a solid one.
It was doing great until it developed a shimmy under load at 60-65 mph. New wheel bearings, tyres balanced, still shaking it's head off. Local fitter thinks it might be clutch/flywheel or driveshafts. Bugger!
@@danjames4086 what kind of shimmy do you mean? Under load?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos
Yep - 2500-3000 revs, 55-65mph. Under load, but stops when you back off the throttle. Feels like a wheel out of balance, but never had one that stops off load or isn't affected by swapping the wheels around. I'm thinking warped flywheel/knackered clutch plate or bent driveshaft.
Funny how it started immediately after getting a wheel bearing done... I'm beginnig to think they dropped a driveshaft off the bloody ramp!😂
@@danjames4086 I was going g to suggest the drive shaft. I recently changed both of mine for similar reason, will be in an upcoming vid. Inner joints were knackered and caused similar issue to what you described
I cheated and got mine replaced by the yokel garage, when I got the car back I noticed that the wheels hadn't been off (my own zip ties still on wheel trims) - apparently you can just move the engine to one side to create a gap just wide enough to get the clutch out and a new one in. Having said that the bloody thing failed after a couple of weeks so maybe it's a shit way of doing it - if indeed it's not just a myth!
Sounds like they just adjusted your cable and told you they fitted a new one if it failed not long after 🤔
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Still can't work it out, the release bearing started squarking so I complained - wasn't a total unit failure but they still agreed to replace it. Came back fine and without the judder - yet wheels still hadn't been off! Question is: if they hadn't actually replaced the clutch at all then how did they get the release bearing to shut up? Answers on a postcard please...!
@@anthonyenglish9298 you could do it without taking the wheels off by disconnecting the inside Wishbone mounts and pulling the whole lot to get the shaft out, but it would be more awkward and makes no sense
As i can see the old clutch looks fine! Did you had problems with that disk?and how many km have done with this?
It was fucked bro, slipping and broken fingers. Probably done about 30k miles
Oh sign me up ,,, interesting to see you dont lube your shaft ,,,
an oily nose is something ive never done , but i use a smidge of tungsten di sulphide grease on the shaft and splines on the primary input shaft ... but just a smidge , I know threse two schools of thought but interesting your of the other opinion.
😂
He did lube it. With gravel.
Bien hecho amigo, eh i can do a few jobs but dont think i would be able to do that !!
That red cable with the perspex window/sleeve on it beside the battery, it drops down at 17.08
What is that for ?? Im restoring a 2001 merc slk and saw one of those under the battery, i ripped it out and threw it away !! Will i need it later ??
Ich habe auch deutsche nachbarn hier in spanien !
It’s just a fuse for the amp for the stereo, has the SLK had a sound system added at any time?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos possibly but i dont know yet as the plug for the stereo doesnt fit the pioneer unit thats there.
But i have a few things to fix before that !!
@@arnietwo11 good luck brah
could have upgraded to civic arb links
Didn’t think of doing that tbh