6.7 POWERSTROKE UPPER OIL PAN REPAIR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ค. 2021
- 6.7 POWERSTROKE upper oil pan repair. In my previous video I showed you how to remove the transmission as that is the first step, then time for the oil pan. I walk you through that repair with some tips and tricks along the way.
RING LIGHT
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FLASHLIGHT HOLSTER
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OBSERVER TOOLS FLASHLIGHT
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STREAMLIGHT HEADLAMP
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Tone
I’ve never removed a transmission in a vehicle let alone remove major components like the upper oil pan. I studied your video, read the maintenance manual a ton, was able to tackle this job under my parking cover outside and with minimal help from others. Learned a lot through the process and actually enjoyed it. THANK YOU! You’re helping a lot of people.
Well thank you very much I am very happy to help. Glad everything worked out. Thanks for watching
How long did it take you, and what did it cost to do it yourself?
I have the 2011, f-350 XL, 4x4 SRW. It took me 6 days to do it. I also didnt have a garage and was fighting the weather, so take that into consideration. I spent around $1500 just to do the upper oil pan. I went to Ford and got all the new gaskets and seals from them and the rtv sealant. I had to buy the transmission jack, jack stands, the rear main seal driver (I did this also and that part was $250), I spent $300 on all the fluids (engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant). You’re going to need a low profile 1/4 inch, greater than 72 tooth ratchet to get the bolts in and out of the center sides of the oil pan, you’ll also need a flexible hose clamp pliers from autozone. Don’t try to use a normal set of pliers, just buy the flex set Or else you’ll hate life getting the coolant lines off. A lot of patience. You’re also going to need a 12 point socket set to get the drive shaft bolts off. The maintenance manual was purchased, also.
Before I did all this I took my truck to a self service car wash. Drove it it up onto car ramps and used engine degreaser everywhere. I then pressure washed everything so it made it significantly less messier and I wanted to be able to see any leaks after I finished the job.
Reach out if you have other questions.
You don't have to take out the crank sensor cover. all you do is back to bolt out a few turns and push the crank sensor rearward. You should replace the lower oil pan- the replacements are metal(they require different bolts) . When you use the Ford rtv, you must cleans the sealing areas and use the metal surface prep pads to insure and activate the rtv for correct sealing! Just my 2 cents😊( I’ve done at least 20 of these jobs).
Thank you I appreciate it.
This looks like another difficult job made to look super easy by Tone!!
Thank you Bill. This job is super intimidating. But once you get in there not too bad. Thanks for watching.
I know it’s not easy to record all of that, great job Tony.
Thank you Steve. Yes it is very difficult to get some of the recordings especially when I'm slammed. Thank you for watching.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone How are you allowed to video at work? It certainly increases turn around time.
@@fixitallpaul4847 my work doesn't care if I film at work as long as I get my work done.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone ive been trying to convince my boss the shop needs to have a channel. We do some cool stuff but I only catch rare moments on video.
Be well my friend- Paul
My man, you ROCK! Just about to tackle this job and I’m using the pan with the GASKET.
Thank you very much I appreciate that. Hit me up on Instagram if you have any questions. Good luck
Thank you for posting this informative video . Currently helping a friend out with this job 👊🏽
Your very welcome. I also have a video on the transmission removal if you have any questions about that part of it. Thank you for watching.
Awesome video! Gave me the confidence to do this task in my driveway. Wanted to add some tips for the non mechanics of tools and items to get that would have saved me A LOT of time.
I bought one big red Torin TR4076 transmission jack from harbor freight.
I used 4x3 ton stands to lift the truck.
A low profile 1/4 ratchet with an articulating/swivel head is a MUST in order to get to bolts near the center perimeter of the pan out and in. I bought a ratchet with 72 teeth from harbor freight, 120 would have been better for the limited room.
The coolant lines from ford are constant
Tension clamps. You will curse god if you try to use normal pliers. Go to autozone and buy the OEM hose clamp pliers. You can set the tension and then use both of your hands to set the hose and position the clamp while the tension has been released. You will spend a LOT of time on this task without these pliers.
I needed about 22 inches of 3/8 extensions bars and a wobble socket in order to get the upper bell housing bolts in and out.
A second car jack to support the transfer case when re installing the transmission would have been clutch. I used a bottle jack. Doable but could have been easier.
The tip Tone uses for extracting the rear main seal is $$. Just took my time and made sure I was clear of the side wall.
I had a manual 4x4 XL. When you
Reinstall the 4x4 shift arm back onto the transfer case, it is indexed. This keeps the stick matching in the cab with the gear it’s selected in. If you start the truck and the shift logic is incorrect, check the index.
An impact drill for removing bolts is super nice rather than using a ratchet on everything.
3/8 inch torque tench
1/2 inch torque wrench.
Deep sockets for the transmission support beam.
Creeper
Including all the tools I bought, replacement fluids ($300 for coolants, oil, trans fluid), degreasers, cleaners, plus the replacement parts Tone recommends, I spent $1,700. This includes the rear main seal press in seal driver which is $400 on Amazon and no one rents them. You Can use other methods to get the seal in that costs maybe $10 but i didn’t trust myself. A local shop quoted me $3,500.
Thanks, Tone. Helping a lot of people with your lessons. Didn’t break anything doing the job.
Hey thank you for the in depth comment and I am very happy to help out. Next time I'm gonna do it without removing the transmission and I'll make an updated video. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
GOOD WRENCH!!
Thank you and I appreciate you watching.
Perfect job ☝️👍
Thank you and I appreciate u watching
Sweet, let's get it! Finally back on TH-cam, and finally back on getting videos done.
Sweet brotha I am very happy your back.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone badass hat man!
How many hours is that
I honestly cannot recall, I think maybe 15 but could be less. Sorry I do not have the answer right now, I am at home and cannot access repair info. If you message me on my instagram I can look it for u. Thank you for watching.
Another awesome video. I actually like big jobs like these. I am mostly an engine guy but a bit new to the 6.7's. Appreciate the guide thru brother! 👍👍
Thank you brotha I appreciate that. The 6.7 powerstroke is very popular and continuing to gain popularity so get familiar with them. Thank you for watching.
Good stuff, thanks, Tone. .
Thank you very much, and I appreciate you watching.
Thanks for the detailed video. I am doing this job on my back currently.
It’s probably gonna take me whole week working 2-3 hours a day.
Some of the tips you gave are very helpful like dipstick tube on top disconnect.
My upper pan is No gasket (All Silicone) Motorcraft T-31.
Some people suggest getting a 2011 pan with gasket, my buddy at ford says the ones with gasket are as much prone to leaking as silicone.
He says the silicone used at the factory on 11-16 is the wrong type and diesel fuel eats thru it. He also mentions that the dabs in the corner is where it leaks.
He says he has done over 20 of these and most of them leaking badly are 2011 with pressed in gaskets.
Ford updated the gasket to only silicone in latter 12 and up but still used the wrong loctite silicone which gets eaten my diesel fuel in oil.
Ford later updated the silicone type in 2020 6.7 which have very little leaking from upper pan.
He says to use 7.3 motorcraft RTV T-31.
What are your thoughts? I’m on the edge to buy 2011 pan or clean mine…
Thank you for watching, first of all and I really appreciate your feedback. I have actually have heard about the silicone recently and was going to start using the grey silicone for 7.3's. About the oil pan I have heard from a Ford Diesel guy that you should switch to the 11 pan. Here is my opinion, if you have a pan with all silicone then the whole pan can leak if there was any issues with the silicone or cleaning of the pan. If you have a gasket the gasket generally is not going to leak, all you have to worry about is the 4 corners where the silicone is. I believe the silicone thing for sure, and for a long time we used the 7.3 silicone for a lot of things because it was awesome. Sucks you are doing that job on your back.
@@NutsandBoltswithTone Thanks for your input! If I get 11 oil pan then what’s stopping us from spreading 7.3 RTV silicone around the whole perimeter to give it extra layer of sealing?
Why dabbing just 4 corners…
Just thinking out loud….
@@syedullah613 no don't do that. It seems like a good idea but it's not. The only reason you can the 4 corvette is because it is where the front cover meets the block and where the rear cover meets. If you have a gasket you always silicone areas like that to get the silicone up in the groove where the different components come together.
Where you at? Do my truck. Or recommend someone in the Arlington TX area.
I am in Sacramento California that may be a bit of a drive for you. If you wanna take a vacation to Sacramento I'll take care of your truck. I have a buddy in Texas that said he would take care of you. I'm gonna put his shop info for you.
Gonzalez Automotive Services
107 Edalyn Street Kirby Tx 78219
(210-618-8192)
Thanks for watching. Message me on Instagram if you have any questions.
What cost is this job ?
Great video and very informational! I need an upper oil pan gasket replacement on my 2011 Powerstroke now.
Thank you I appreciate it. Next time I do one in going to do it without removing the transmission. Thanks for watching.
Interesting, my mechanic mentioned the other day about having to remove the engine. The diagnostic hasn't been completed yet, so I'm waiting. He also mentioned the crankcase could be stopped up. I look forward to your next video. Thanks for all the good information.
@1Marlo jenkins I have a video about replacing the Crank case filter. If can cause oil leaks if it gets plugged, also cause smoking out of the tail pipe
@@NutsandBoltswithTonehiw long does this job take?
👍👍👍👍👍berry berry mucho mucho good. Tanks you berry much
Thank you very much I appreciate that. I am very happy to help. Thank you for watching.
Where is your shop located? You seem very thorough with your work, I do not have time to tackle this job, and need the transmission as well as t-case replaced while they are out. Would y’all be interested in taking on this job.
I'm in Sacramento California
@@NutsandBoltswithTone well it never hurts to ask, but that’s a decent trip for me, I’m located in Tennessee.
@TheRockStar129 oh wow that's a little bit of a drive.
Awesome vid and info
Thank you I appreciate it. Thank u for watching.
Great job!!! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you very much I appreciate it.
Why people replaced the whole upper pan n it locked up cuz of travel through hole on one side blocked the oil… so u use same part n add or replace gasket right? On upper pan
So if you have the silicone only pan you can swap to a gasket pan, but you have to research the year to make sure it is the same. But yes if you are just resealing you would just clean up and put new gasket. Thank you for watching.
This is why i deleted my pcv filter housing and did a reroute kit
I have heard of this but never seen one. Oil seperators failing cause all kinds of problems, I have seen smoke out of tail pipe and continuous oil leaks. Funny thing you mention this as I just got done filming a video about servicing the oil serperator. Thank you for watching the video.
Where you located ?
Sacramento California
Other channels make it seem like the upper pan with the gasket (2011) is the fix for the later models that only use silicone.
I did a short on that topic, I have seen that as well. I have never done it but yeah they say you can do that up to 2019 I think. Not completely sure but somewhere around 2019 pan changes. Thank you for watching. One way to help keep the oil leaks to a minimum or less is to replace crankcase breather before it fails. I saw one video where a guy says to replace it every 30k to avoid pressure in crankcase. thank you for watching.
I've been looking for a video on this specific topic and after searching for weeks, I found this one. I appreciate the detailed info for someone who is only a little mech-savvy.
Well I am happy you found it. Happy to help. Hit me up on Instagram if you have any questions. Thank you for watching
Hey man can you help me figure something out?
Working on a 2019 f350 6.7 Powerstroke. Doing the upper oil pan. When I pulled the transmission off a lot of oil leaked out of the bell housing along with what seems to be coolant?? No big deal on the oil the upper pan was leaking into the bell housing, also doing the rear main and the rear cover but the clear fluid I'm not %100 sure I contemplated on it maybe being condensation but I don't think so, its clear ish but thicker and oily looking like antifreeze. I pressure tested both cooling systems and there are no leaks anywhere. I can send you pictures of what I mean if its possible. Would love to get some input on this because I'm stumped 😕
I asked multiple people I know who work on 6.7's but they haven't seen this happen before. The only thing I see that could leak coolant in the bell housing is the freeze plug back there but it didn't leak any when I pressurized the cooling systems
That sounds very strange, I have not come across that at all. I am not sure if any fluid from the valley could leak into the bell housing. I do not think so. Yes please send me pictures, if you have instagram that would be the best it is much easier. Thank you for watching.
I just took mine apart and it looked like that too. Water mixed with oil. Looked like nasty grey colored soup. I’m relatively sure that it is from when I pressure washed the engine at the car wash with engine degreaser. My plastic plate is missing by the starter, so it went right into the bell housing. It could probably get in there even if the plastic plate were not missing.
@@stevenmark8156 I moved forwards and sent it out, truck is doing good. I'm not too sure what it was. Maybe rain water ? Idk... the plastic cover by the starter was still there
@stevenmark8156 Im doing one now with the exact problem.. When the pan and rear main leak it fills the bell housing and its a tight machined fit so its "Sealed" mine held a few quarts in the bell housing.
Does the dip stick goes all the way down with upper pan swap to 2017 with older model pan gears engine lock up with wrong oil measure
From what I have been told the only change is gasket to silicone. I was told this by a Ford Master Diesel Tech. Thanks for watching.
I’m going to tackle changing my flex plate next week. Do you recommend changing the flex plate bolts and/or torque converter nuts?
Honestly we never do, Ford always says to replace them and I may have once or twice. If it was my truck I wouldn't personally. Thank you for watching.
I’ve read the newer 6.7 do not have the gasket like the 11-12 model’s. Can you swap a 2011-2012 upper oil pan in place of a current model like my 2019? I trust a real gasket over rtv only.
Hey I am glad you asked this, I recently found out from a Ford tech that yes if you have a newer model with only rtv as a gasket that you buy a new pan for the 11 to 12 and a gasket, then you have the better seal. The gaskets did not leak as bad as the all RTV ones. From what I understand the only difference in the pan is the gasket. I will make a short video about this because this is important. Thank you for watching and for your feedback
I fixed my vacuum seal pump oil leak today and I'm wondering if my upper oil pan is leaking. Any sure fire way to know? 2012 f350 with 275k miles
If you have the tools to do a UV dye test you could do that and watch for the dye, however sometimes it is very difficult to see exactly where. You could pressure wash it or clean it to get rid of all the existing oil so you can look for the oil leak. Be careful if you see oil leaking near the upper oil pan and timing cover area on driver side, because the timing covers leak there as well and upper oil pan has to come off to do the timing cover. Thank you for watching. If you have any further questions hit me up on my Instagram.
So what would the book time be to do the upper pan and rear main seal total time for the job?
Off hand not sure. If you message me with the vehicle info on Instagram I can look it up. Thanks for watching.
So what’s the model and name of the special tool needed to install the rear? Crank seal
Here is a link to the tool and thanks for watching.
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If the original Ford sealent failed why would I want to use the same again? In general I agree with using branded sealants/parts for certain jobs.
the ones I have done it is a gasket and the gasket fails. but on that note they update parts and silicone and things due to common failures. Thank you for watching.
Could the leaking oil from engine damage the torque converter or transmission in anyway?
No
Hello, what tool did you use or how did you screw back in the one bolt that is really hard to get on the passenger side?
I did my upper and lower pan already, torque all the bolts except for the one bolt, I can’t get the screw to turn with my hand smh
I use a long extension with a edible socket. Long neck cordless ratchet works on some as well. Thanks for watching. Hit me up on Instagram if you need more help.
6.7 diesel oil pump pickup tube has 2 rings but mine only had 1 o-ring should it have 1 or 2 ?
Pick up tube should only have 1 I believe. No reason for 2 unless someone added 1 by mistake
@@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks and 1 other thing locktite on bolts ?
Will the upper oil pan leak come back after being redone due to lack of a real gasket ?
If you use the proper gasket from Ford, Ford silicone that is correct and not expired and you do not have any engine breathing issues. Meaning the crankcase breather on driver valve cover is not plugged. I have a video talking about that and how to replace it. The oil pan should not leak for quite a long time if done properly.
My truck started to leak, my mechanic isn’t happy about it and keeps avoiding the task. Wondering what the labor cost is ?
Haha yeah it is not the most fun job. I think book time is around 10 or 11 hours. Thank you for watching.
Hey I hate to be a bother but is there any way you could add links to all the parts you replaced during this video. I have a upper pan leak in my 2011 6.7 and I am no mechanic. If there are any specific brands of seals etc. you recommend I would really appreciate it.
I actually don't mind helping you out but it's easier on Instagram so message me there and I'll help you out. Thanks for watching
Whats a repair like this cost ?
I actually do not know how much, unfortunately I do not see dollar signs I only see the hours for the job and parts list. Thank you for watching.
what should i expect to pay for this at a reputable shop
I have no idea, I am sorry I do not do any dollar amounts. I appreciate you watching.
Book time is 14 hours at most places and labor rate is $175 on average, parts include the silicone, and seals. So north of $3000-$4000
Whats something like that cost?
Not quite sure, I do not see the dollar amounts. It is around 12ish houts, and not a lot of parts. coolant, rear main seal, silione, upper oil pan gasket and an oil change. Thank you for watching.