I’m betting Dave installed a one way check valve that prevents back flow after engine shutdown. If you Add up all those extra seconds saved on engine startups, that ends up being a significantly lower amount of time saved in dry start time and it looked like there was oil instantly flowing (albeit at a lower pressure ) when cranking engine. Nice upgrade Dave! Love your videos.
I agree with you, that’s probably what he did. My question is when changing the oil will that mean the 2 quarts of old oil stay in the motor and not be able to be drained?
@@jacobmartin1951 Great question! Most probably that is so. Partial solution is to add 1-2 qts of fresh oil, run motor for 30 seconds and re-drain oil, and re-fill with normal amount. You will replace much of the dirty oil with fresh oil, and the new filter can pull the rest of the contaminants out during normal operation. Alternatively it is possible to install a fine particle bypass filter, but that is better suited ($$$) to heavy truck applications.
If I had one of these new high output diesel engines that are in these new trucks I would most definitely add a bypass filter. I also like the idea of swapping to the bigger and better CAT filter.
Just think a newer diesel starts after 1 second of cranking so you have 7 seconds at 1000 rpm possibly high idle 1250 1400 for 6 seconds and boom main bearings goes by by
What impressive about Dave is he really takes pride in his work and not many people really do now days. He has the patience and intelligence to diagnose and solve problems. And he has the shop and tools to do the job right. Got to love an engine builder who goes the extra mile. Send it
I am a retired Airborne State Trooper, and on our piston engines we installed a pre-oiler. It was electric 12v and it just felt good to start an engine that, at start had oil pressure, especially in winter if it had been outside. We always made TBO. I enjoy the technical aspect and clean enviro. of your vids.. I have an old 5.9 Cummins with 240,000 miles and she's just getting started.
@Old Cowboy450 , Very interesting... What type of planes did you fly out of ? What type of engines did they have? Do you know the # of the STC of those pre-oiler kits? Reading some of the replies that other subscribers have contributed here, gave me several ideas about various ways of Pre-oiling engines before start-up... I was wondering if anybody has installed an accumulator, with an electrically controlled valve to open it to the Lube System.... As the ignition switch is activated, that electrical circuit could send a signal to an electrically controlled valve, on a hydraulic accunulator , to pressurize the engine oil directly to a point in the engine lube system.... 11:57
@@michaelmartinez1345 If you are into planes I had '76 Cessna T-210 with a Continental TSIO-520-H. I never had the preoiler but I know it was available for my model. I did have electric (wall plug) oil pan and cylinder heaters so on cold days I did at least thin the oil! :) On that note I love Continentals because the cam is under the crank so they got extended drippage and did not dry out like Lycoming cams above the crank do. I could talk a LOT more about oil on 500+ cubic inch air cooled airplane engines but I will stop there in case no one gives a shit! LOL! BUT I will gladly ramble on more if you do!
@@robjohnson8522 Awesome !!!! I like your appreciation of opposed engines that have camshafts below the crankshafts, like the air-cooled VW's & the Air cooled BMW boxer twin M/C engines..., When it comes to planes, yes, I can ramble with the best of them... Most of my aviation experience (20+ years) is with maintenance and repairs of large turbine airliners and cargo planes... I have about 3 years of experience working on CH-46 Helo's (U.S.M.C.)...And about 1-year of experience maintaining & repairing part 91 and part 123 single & twin engine recip. G.A aircraft of various types at an FBO... (Pre-9/11/01) ... That idea of equipping the STC of the engine oil pan & jug warmers 😮😃 to the tsio 520 TCM is a good one, to get her fluidz moving rapidly 😮.... Nothing like warmed jugs & fluidz to get the chilled homesick angel to respond when she's needed... The V-16 Cats that I used to work on in those model # 793 mining trucks, were usually warm when they were tasked to do transfers of Mining materials as that mine and several other mines, are 24/7 operations.... However, they always pre-lubed those engines before they were started with an electric oil pump that was plumbed into the engine's main lube galleys.... They have 4-ea. turbo-chargers on each of those 3,516 cid 2,400 H.P. diesel engines...The 793 B's we had fully loaded weighed close to 500 tons..The 3,516 engines were also used on the Cat model #993 large wheel loaders, which helped the operation by loading the haul trucks in spots that the 3.8 million pound P&H rope shovels they have , could not easily get to....Doing things that can extend the life of our personal vehicles, could save us thousands of $ ... When the companies do these types of things to their equipment & vehicles, it could save them Millions of $.... So , from doing these types of things, we can give ourselves a better chance to survive the worst financial situations that many people can't even begin to imagine.. This is being prepared....
In industrial applications ( Im a power plant operator), a check valve on the suction side of a pump to prevent loss of prime is called a foot valve. Nice video and nice work!
It's incredible that all combustion engines don't have this. It seems like such a basic thing that could do a lot of good, with the only real risk being that some fail and do not hold in the pressure, which would be the current state of things!
I called this a feature of planned obsolescence, but more like planned failure right after warranty period expires. Why sell an engine or vehicle once when you can plan a failure and get repeat customers?@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309
@3DProductions I totally agree. I work on a 7FA.3/ D11 combined cycle and our literature refers to them as simply check valves as well. The term "foot valve" is a very antiquated term that I believe is no longer used. We have equipment at my plant dating back to the early 60s and that's where Ive seen the term used. Similar to "root/ keeper" vs. "primary/ secondary "
Being 70 years old I remember in 1971 Chrysler came out and advised owners NOT to use LEE Oil Filters. Chrysler said that the LEE's allow engine Oil to drain back into the Oil Pan and thus every time you started your engine the Oil pump had to refill the Filter being akin to a Oil Change or First start after Oil service. Now here we are 2024 . Some things change and some do not. Great content. Bless you and yours.
Same age has you . I remember oil filters without the rubber check in them . the lifters would sing a few seconds on start up . In 2012 my mother went to jiffy lube for oil change a week later i drive the car on start up in heard the lifters and knew what it was my first was napa for a wix filter . the filter they used had no anti drain back in it .
Thank goodness I listened to Bill Hewitt and used Archoil 9100 in my 410,000 mile 6.7, since it was new. I’ve never had the typewriter tick after any oil changes or any unusual noises. After seeing this and the results of Archoil fuel additive, I truly believe Bill knew what he was talking about and thank you Dave for bringing this to our attention.
I just came across your channel after being sent it from a friend, and after watching a few videos, it makes me happy that there’s an actual shop out there with guys that know what they’re doing. That is so hard to find nowadays. You and your crew put 95%+ of other shops and mechanics to shame.
@@nayBobbwho cares bout a 1/2 a quart of oil if your turbo, cam, lifters, rockers, and bearings last another 150,000 miles….. just upgrade to an oil pan that holds an extra two quarts.
@@braddycarter9312you missed the entire point of the video. The oil system drains back almost immediately. As shown in the video. Increasing the capacity won't stop or affect drain back. The solution is mentioned above in another reply
When I purchased my 250HD with that motor new from the dealer, the very FIRST THING I did was to install a prelubricator system. So that prior to startup, an electric oil pump would fully pressurize the entire oil system, preventing dry startups. The unit I purchased also had a post lubrication feature, so that upon shutdown, the pump would run (I think for two minutes) to help cool the turbo and its bearings to prevent coking the bearings as it sat there soaking (otherwise non-flowing oil) in the heat.
how does that work on new cars. i figure on old cars with keys i assume it turns on before you crank the car when you put the key in the power position so like radio and light come on. but modern cars are push button right? so how do they power on systems before you push to start? do they just do that when they sense the keyfob?
@phgamer4393 If I remember correctly, there's an option to activate the preluber with a push-button. So just depress the button and let the system pressurize the oil galleys prior to starting.
Reposting my comment on Dave's Part 1 video - I have a Ford 6.8L V10 gasser in a 1997 Class C motorhome. Whenever I put the vehicle into storage, I remove the fuel pump fuse so the next time i start the engine, it will crank without fuel. When starting the next time, I crank the engine for about 45 seconds hoping that's enough time to get the crankshaft, cylinders & cams lubricated before replacing the fuel pump fuse and starting the engine. And you bet, whenever I change the oil (every 3500 mi), I fill the NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter with oil. Engine has 80K miles on it, and burns zero oil. Thank you this video Dave - your video confirms my '78 BSME intuition that I haven't been wasting my time! And I sure hope Ford engineers are watching & following your channel!
Exactly. Ford is an evil engineered-to-fail monster continually bailed out by the government. Speedkarr99 shows how insanely common it is to use plastic parts in engines. It's defrauding consumers as an engineering approach.
Somebody to gave me a sounds up for something that I don't know why I asked about what he thought about the 7.3 turbo diesel that came out in the 73 model Ford trucks
Maybe he means the 7.3L IDI “Turbo Diesel” from 1993-Early 1994? Those were basically the same 7.3l IDI motors with upgraded cylinder heads and a ATS aftermarket turbo. We worked on a lot of those back in the 1990s.
Dave, you are far smarter than me but I'm watching your videos and enjoying them.. My Dad ran a shop and I worked close to him for about fifty years.Unfortunately he did not get an education as have. He is now 82 and still able to work smaller jobs. Years ago he did do allot of complete engine rebuilds and very few comeback s
Great content as usual Dave. I run a repair shop and think along the same lines- always trying to figure out why things fail prematurely and try to improve the end product and make the repair last longer than the factory did. I really like what you did with the oil system. There were a couple comments I saw in regard to the system being open on top (no turbo installed) and while it is true that having the turbo installed will help hold the oil up, gravity is always pulling down and all bearings have tolerances allowing air to enter the oil system starting on top and filling the void left by the oil going back to the oil pan. And as an engine ages those tolerances increase which allows air to enter behind the oil moving down even faster. Then add in the temperature factor and when you shut down an engine hot, that oil will move back to the oil pan that much faster due the lower oil viscosity. There are also a few questions and comments in regard to the oil stuck in the engine when doing an oil change with the check valve (I think the technical term is foot valve) installed. I think there is less oil left in the engine than one would think. I always remove the oil filter first and then drain the oil- most of the oil above the filter will drain out. In the grand scheme of things, that quart that would be left is inconsequential if good maintenance is performed/kept up with. Think of the 7.3L powerstroke- there is about a quart of oil up top (in the HPOP reservoir) that most people don’t drain when doing service and it is really inconsequential if you do proper maintenance. I would go as far as say it would be better to leave the oil there for quicker startup lubrication after service. I think where this will really make a difference is as the engine wears (I don’t think it will wear as fast as if there was no check valve due to quicker oiling on start up) and not just the engine but the turbo as well, this will really help keep the oil where it belongs. Not to mention, if you don’t drive every day, it will help with or eliminate dry starts from day one. Thanks for all the quality content, keep it up!
When you said, "this is what engine builder's do". I about screamed! Damn right! Without exactly knowing, I figure you designed a check valve to keep the oil from draining back into the pan. And perhaps a pre-oiler that comes on when the ignition is turned to the on position. That being said. It's people like you: engine builder's, hot rodders, shade tree mechanics, farmers, etc that see an issue and figure out what to do about it. It's amazing!!!! BRAVO!!!
You should design a part so we can install it to our existing running 6.7 to prolong the life. I’m sure you will get lots of buyers.. like a modified pickup tube with the check valve in exchange for our stock one.
I agree there is alot of space in the oil system to fill and get pressure. I've worked and ford dealer pretty much the hole time the 6.7 has been out. I've only repaired like 4 engines in that time. And they where damaged from a lack of oil in the sump. 17-19 got really bad crank case breathers that clogged and cause the engine to consume oil and company trucks don't ever get the oil checked. I think this is why you see so many 6.7 with smoked bearing.
That and really hard core tuning power stroke help did a video on main bearing failures. He saw from the aftermarket side of things, the tolerances are really tight, and the main bearing gets hammered terribly by way too much ignition timing
What about 20 and later? You know it's interesting, they say like 80% of their engine rebuilds are due to lack of maintenance, and then publish videos like this. Ugly oil would definitely contribute, but what about most of us whose engines don't blow up? Mine is 4 years old, not a hint of an issue.
That is so awesome. It is the love for what he does that separates him from the rest. I Love Dave's passion and dedication. We learn something new every time. What a great channel. I spend hours just viewing his stuff and I Love it keeps me sane. Thank you.
I used to live in Edmonton AB, I had a snow plowing business and a couple friends had these 6.7 Powerstrokes. We all used to go out during the middle of the night to clean snow. I cant imagine how long 5-40 or ever 0-40 full synthetic would take the prime that engine at -45 or -50 Celsius (nearly -60F) even IF they’re plugged in, that oil is thick. I don’t think its feasible/practical, but if you could figure out a way to run this test at low temps, and not 75 degrees in a shop… I bet the time to prime that turbo pedestal is 20 seconds.
Up in the nwt alot of people run them but most have pan heater and block heater past -10 also the town i live in takes 5 minutes to get to the other side they get a 1/10th of the mileage ab trucks get
If I could afford it, I would drive from where I live in NC to his shop to have him fix my engine if it ever needed it!!! This man is an EXTREMELY TALENTED INDIVIDUAL!!!
Nice to see folks that have pride in their work and look for solutions. I think the big automakers don’t want to fix some things. I worked in emergency power field, some large engines we used, 50 and 60 liter engines, had prelube pumps on them that could be programmed to run every thirty minutes until the oil system was pressurized. This was to prevent this same problem when the generator was started in an emergency start situation for a hospital or other critical facility. They also had block heaters on them to keep the cooling system 90-120 degrees. These engines held 48-110 gallons of oil depending on the oil sump configuration and other items
I’ve been a part of 6.0/6.4/6.7 diesel forums for a long time. Never really saw a rash of these failures unless there was an underlying cause such as lack of maintenance or user error. The 2011-2013 motors did have some turbo and valve issues. Either way this is great stuff. My 6.0 takes about 3-4 seconds to move the dummy gauge but after 250K tear down it looked good.
I've been a ford tech for about 20yrs, and I've seen a LOT of 6.7 main bearings failures (have one at my work as I type this waiting on an engine). And it's been a mix of trucks with stellar and questionable maintenance keeping. So it's definitely more of an engineering fault than a maintenance fault.
Its easy to see how engines get destroyed without regular oil changes. How those tiny passages in the Cam and other areas stay open and clear is crazy. I see it as a crappy design. But it's like that on many engines. Dave's videos are extremely informative and entertaining for motorheads like me!
When Dave or Cass from Choate engineering make videos, I'm tuned all the way in. Both of yall make some of the most fascinating videos of them all. I could listen and watch these all day and never tire of learning ans storing the immense information. Thanks Dave, this is quality TH-cam right here. Thanks for sharing and takikg the time. We ALL seriously appreciate it
@DavesAutoCenterCenterville just wanted to thank you for these video they help me out a lot and congrats on the Discovery I look forward to seeing your series
Dave. Over the months, I’ve watched this video again and again. You and your son and your team did great work here and it’s inspiring. Making things better is what I live for. I love this fix you invented. I tell this story often and I’m in finance.
Just adding a check valve (foot valve in this case) does come with several drawbacks. There are losses in flow due to the restriction of the foot valve and it will work the pump harder while pumping less volume. It also prevents a complete oil change. I'm sure the "One simple trick that engineers hate" has been tried and abandoned by the auto industry for a very good reason.
All check valves are not created equal. If you select/modify the right check valve, the slight reduction in oil flow will be negligible. The oil flow on a normally well maintained engine will be in excess of the minimum required flow rate. Compare how high the oil stream going into the plastic cup before the fix versus post fix. Not a significant difference. The extended life due to reduced oil starvation on cold startup far exceeds the little reduction in oil flow due to losses in the check valve (restriction and turbulence). The video illustrates a very good engineering design tradeoff for drastically increased engine life.
Years ago I worked for Fram in the engineering model shop. There was an ever present notion that all parts should be least-cost. A check valve in the pickup tube may not suit your sympathies but it's better than the original design and a kick in the ass with a frozen boot
Good job Dave. The only way to prevent the oil from going back is probably what Dave did and installed a check valve or some type of one way gate valve. Hats off to Dave.
@@stevenbrooks1243 ditto and they're way too easy for a bad mechanic to screw up due to how complicated they are, ditched mine for the other 6.7 of the inline variety, hope it holds up. There aren't enough ARods, Bills and Daves to go around...
@@wtbman don't forget Flying Wrenches, Ford Boss, Choate Engineering, In The Shop, Custom Works, Diesel Tech Ron, and a handful I can't remember off hand at the moment. All awesome channels with loads of information! Shout out to ALL the in the Ford brotherhood!
One way/ no return valve. This man deserves even more recognition! We can see he truly dedicates himself and he loves what he does! Perfect professional👌👌
The manufacturer knows that they have a problem. All of them. They know how to make a vehicle live until the warranty expires. That's all they care about. I was in a service meeting years ago. They said that 85% of people do not return to the dealership after the warranty period. This is how they get back their lost business. Either you'll be in the service department, or you'll be in the sales department.
You can not 100% eliminate warranty repairs something will fail at some point. Made by humans or machine something will be over looked cause a failure, mismachined, small spot wasn't tempered or hardened right, bearing pressed in .002 to far or .002 shallow list be endless possibilities
@@TEXMECHANIC I have to sort of disagree with you on this one - with good quality control and the proper processes, it can be reduced to near zero, especially if you are talking about failures during the warranty period. Go back and look at how American manufacturers built airplanes during WWII that, at the end of the assembly line, flew off into the war. That wasn't by accident. After the war US manufacturers got lazy and cost-cutting, and QC Guru Deming went over to Japan and taught them how to do it, leading to their quality TVs, cameras, optical equipment, machinery, cars, etc. There is always a battle in companies between the people who want to do it right, and the people who want to do it quick and cheap. That never changes.
@redmondjp no matter how good quality control there still things can not prevent you can not check every component every time production would be drastically long and not fulfill demand.
@@TEXMECHANIC Have you ever worked in manufacturing? Quality starts with the raw materials and works all the way down the line, so to speak. One of my employers machined aluminum parts for a major airplane manufacturer. They have a paper trail for each lot of aluminum that they receive. Each step in the process has a quality check so bad parts aren't sent further along. I started working for a major GM parts supplier in the 1980s and have worked in heavy-truck, off-road, and aerial lift vehicle manufacturing as well as parts suppliers to those same companies. There are some rare failures but a properly-designed manufacturing process integrated with QC at every step goes a long way to all but eliminating most failures.
all,, warranty,s.. are worth sht.. paper.. fact.. even oil changes dont happen.. money for nothing.. ill buy a 40 yr old car, & fix it, its cheaper, & lasts longer..
Excellent work. A definite fix so long as oil change intervals are maintained due to the two quarts of dirty oil left in the galleys after an oil change. Here’s the factory fix. Computer controlled primer pump that works in conjunction with a wait to start light that disables cranking until a set oil pressure is achieved. Then cranking enabled with pump disabled when a pre determined rpm signal is detected by the engine ECM. I like your fix Dave since I could grow hair waiting for the manufacturer to act.
Since this series of videos I have been screaming,,,,,,preaching to our quicklane teams,,,,,,,,PRIME YOUR DAMN OIL FILTER !!!!!!! thank you Dave. Now I got proof to show em.
Dave I’m a retired GM tech just retired man that that is great. I thought I was good but you’re the best I don’t know what the issue is with the Duramax but I will tell you they are a pure piece of junk constant crankshaft, breaking camshaft breaking dropping valves I have never in my life figured out why GM continues to use this engine, but kudos to you brother. Keep on keeping on.
Duramax is a solid engine Idk what your talking about. Have had 2 go over 300k and one to almost 500k. Still running the lbz with 315k on it. Sold the lb7 with 450k on it and had no blow by. Problem is people go by the computer on the truck and change the oil every 10-12k miles instead of 5-6k. The other reason for failures is people tuning them to crazy power levels and running them like drag cars. Cummins is a good motor but theyre not bullet proof, they have major problems with turbo sooting up and head bolts stretching. Take care of things and they last its amazing.
@@454budman you would be correct on the maintenance part but as a GM diesel tech I have never seen a Duramax run 1,000,000 miles. The motor always goes before then but the 5.9 Cummins the 6.7 Cummins the 7.3 power stroke I see have done with ease, but the people regular maintain those vehicles to do that
@@leewalker3514 ill take a motor i have to rebuild every million miles over a truck that needs 4 trannies and 10 front ends in that time frame. Ive seen a couple go the distance theres no doubt cummins is a solid built motor tho. The 7.3 i had was a pos
@@454budman again it’s maintenance. My brother had a second GEN 5.9 Cummins the transmission run 808,000 miles before it went out because every 12 months he dropped the fluid and put new filters in it so again it comes to maintenance you would agree.
Should be like the glow plugs before you can start here should be a button before. You can start the truck that circulates the oil with an external pump. So the check valve isn't keeping that oil up there during oil change.
You are a true gearhead Dave!!! Love watching what you do. Not only are you figuring out points of failure, but you provide awesome solutions to make these power plants produce more power, and better reliability. And that is what it's about, if you truly have a passion for what you do!!! Thank you for sharing, always a treat watching and learning from someone with knowledge and passion 😊
I love it Dave I love watching your videos reminds me of the good old days when I used to get yelled at for take a little bit longer on someone's vehicle to make it right cuz the factories make a lot of mistakes. I used to race my own cars I know in a motor needs oil immediately
I have nothing but respect for your entire troubleshooting and solution finding process. Will be great to see how it works out for the longevity of the motor. 😊
Something to consider here - the truck isn't cranking at 500rpm for 7 seconds. It cranks at 500 RPM for maybe 1 or 2 seconds and then jumps to 1500+ RPM. So the SIM test isn't completely accurate, but I think Dave still has a valuable point going down this rabbit hole.
If your a young tech, you need to watch this guy, this is how a real shop should run, if your good at what you do go see these guys and get a job! I would if i was younger and not medically retired tech 35 years.
For sure mine sits a lot 1 or 2 then I pull my boat but I don’t fish everyday it’s an 03 last of 7.3 s 214 k on it so far she’s been a great truck only issue was a hot start I got a cpi from Auto parts store instead of going to ford after a pain in the ass trouble shooting four part no good went to ford and and replaced the new ones are 3/4 on the rocker cover r\s than the original 5/8 and new thermostat also on the 6.7 is check the radiator cap for 15$ it’s not worth an engine when it’s getting too hot That engine needs preasure
Back in the day when i worked on heavy equipment, some company had a unique system to precharge the oil system before cranking the engine. I only saw it on one unit that i worked on. The systen had an oil pump pigeyback on the starter. The starter drive ("bindix")could not engage the flywheel until after engine oil pressure was reached. It sounds like something of this sort would be good for this engine. The electric pump motor could be an independent seperate unit. After engine start you would have this axillary unit to stop running. If i had one of these engines, i think i would seriously conjour up something of this sort, especially after viewing this magnificent demonstration by such an experienced builder. Emergency generators in hospitals have to maintain oil temperature and pressure along with water temperature 24/7. So, they are using an external charge pump. Wow! What a fantastic heads-up demonstration on this engine. Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
I would like to see a more real world test. My 6.7 doesn't crank for two seconds and is at 600ish idle rpm. I also wonder if the added drainback restriction of the turbo being installed would change the result. I like the idea in concept, just would like to see a more real world test.
Take a straw and place it in a glass full of water, then put your finger over then end and lift it out of the glass, the straw will keep the liquid inside. But when you remove your finger from the top of the straw, the water will drain. The same can be said about not having the turbo on top of the engine, you have removed it from the equation, like the finger on the straw, allowing air to enter the top of the engine and the oil will drain back into the pan unless you have put some sort of check valve to keep the flow stopped. Bad thing about check valves, sometimes they stick open or stick shut. Sticking shut will starve the bearings of any oil. Bad consequences.
I believe Mr Dave is showing exactly the results as they are although he does not commit to alot of control in his demonstration, The gentleman with the straw analogy certainly has a consideration to illustrate, just because one might be ignorant does not mean he is deceitful.
I just love your videos they are so educational and well explained in a very not so boring way. I just got into the mechanics and motors, but I could see how this would be a must watch channel for motor heads!
All modern engines start and run almost Immediately. This video shows 8 second for oil to get to the turbo. The engine is cranking very slowly and so is the oil pump. The test is completely fake and not real world at all. If all engines started this way, ALL engines would have bearing failures. This engine was not maintained properly, this engine has 2 oil specs.
Out of all the other engines that are designed to last, these 6.7L Fords appear to be designed to fail. I mean seeing a couple of pounds dropoff in oil pressure after break-in is expected, but I've known these to lose oil pressure exponentially throughout their lifetime, which is usually short compared to most other diesel engines. Great video describing the problem and the solution (I know what it is). 😊
Awesome video! Makes me think of a set up in one of my vehicles... I have a 1968 dodge charger with a 440 under the hood. I have a 3 quart pre-oiler by moroso (23900) and when you hit the key, it dumps the oil into the top of the motor, pre-oiling it.
It's so funny how people who have rebuilt one motor may think they can tell you if something is wrong with a motor or not!! Awesome video, great information!
I presume that you're installing some sort of check valve in the oiling system to prevent the draining. What I want to know is , just exactly how you did it and where you did it , and are you going to make this available to the public at a reasonable price . I believe you've accomplished what you set out to do . Way to go , congrats on a job well done. ( I am a retired technician w/ 40 plus yrs experience. This is the sort of thing I yearn to learn.😮
One of the issues I see is how far the motor would have to be torn down to install this check valve , I can't see anyone tearing down a perfectly good running motor to install this , maybe if they were doing a rebuild or something where the motor was being disassembled for some other reason
You are awesome dave ! I'm the service Manager at the Chevrolet dealership in reno nv, but I've always been a ford truck guy! But i tell my lube technicians to fill the oil filter on all our vehicles!
Great video! Although I would have a concern with the check valve restriction… we have a very high quality oil designed by Bob and Harry Conklin that has a polar molecule which makes the oil stick to everything, never drains completely dry. The first 10 seconds of the start up process is where you get most of your wear
Agreed, he’s solve all the major problems with the duramax. Powerstroke and Cummins in a week. He’s already figured out a lot of them. But They’d likely lose a ton of money on out of warranty repairs if they had a guy like Dave working for them. But they’d also save alot of money on warranty work. But they probably make more on out of warranty work than they lose on warranty work.
I love your way of thinking and engineering aaaand improving motors, so the customer has a longer living motor. I'm a car mechanic and I hate telling my customers, that the manufacturer engineered such crapy things because they want the motors to die after warranty. They always ask, why they do this but it's unfortunately their intention to make more money in such a shameful way. I kinda lost the faith of good engineering in the automotive industry, but your work is such a blessing to every customer. I appreciate your work and all the affort you put in your repairs and rebuilds. Hope to see more interesting and enriching videos😊🎉
I thought of the exact same fix and you proved it works so good on you DAVE. SHAME ON FORD GM DODGE ENGINEERS. These are basic foundational issues for an engine and it shouldn't cost your customers tens of thousands of Dollars before the fix is found.
Great video. I’m assuming that the oil doesn’t drain back, so when you change the oil you don’t quite get all of it out. Not a big deal if it saves the bearings in the motor.
Great idea! The only concern I have is that per your own calculations there would be about 2 quarts of oil trapped between your one way valve and the top end, correct? If that's the case then you would not be able to get a complete oil change, since there would always be a couple quarts of old oil trapped in the motor. Kinda like Like changing tranny fluid without draining the torque converter. Probably still worth that one drawback, but something to consider
You would only trap what is in the pan between the check valve and the oil filter. Everything past the oil filter would drain when you pull it off, so you'd only be keeping about half a quart or so.
Interesting Testing. I also think the issue we are fighting with the modern diesel engines is that the engines start very quickly compared to older diesels. Your not getting the slow Starter driven crankshaft rotations to lube the engine before it starts. Do most engine manufacturers have some sort of check valve in the sump or oil filter to prevent drain back? Thanks for the Videos and Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
old engines didnt use synthetic oil,,which is garbage.. go blame gretta bloombum,, epa,, greenies, for the crap we buy.. &, an ev that self ignites, you cant put out,, so saving the planet, is crap.. they cost more to produce than a normal car, they dont last as long, its all bs smoke & mirrors.. nothing, thats green energy, is re cycleable.. funny,,eh..
Before you send the motor out check to see how much oil is now in your coolant passages because the other hole next to the oil hole is the coolant drain hole for the turbo and I see it’s not taped off so all that oil coming out hitting the cup is then going straight into that coolant hole just noticed it so I figured I’d say something thanks for your videos
Now that’s a huge improvement in time ! Engine will last longer no doubt in my mind ! That’s good thinking and planning ahead ! For the costs of those trucks today I would want mine to last for years with proper maintenance intervals! The truck I drive now is a 1990 and I really like it , I take care of it
So I'm guessing you fitted a none return valve, wonder if you could design and make it fit to the oil filter housing or oil cooler housing. Would reduce installation time. Great fix Dave, nice work 👍
Great series! As a 6.7 powerstroke fan and owner I really enjoyed watching this. I’m always looking for ways to fix the kinks in this motor like CCV issues or cp4 issues and this was one I’ve never heard of. The R&D that you guys do is spot on and reminds me of the legend Gale Banks. I would love to hear what the fix is. Im assuming some kind of check valve but is it something that can be done without pulling the motor? Keep up the amazing work!
Even if 1000s fail under warranty they still come out ahead. The ones you are seeing probably have quite a few miles or months so warranty is over so they don’t go to the dealer for a new motor. You and Ford both exist to make a profit but you go about it differently. $50 per motor adds up to really big money, assuming they can do it for $50 it’s probably more. Ford has done the math on how long they need to last.
Do you not know how a check valve works? Let's say it did "fail" then the oil flow is right back to where it was from factory, big whoop. What he's done is a great idea
Check/foot valve good simple solution for sure. The machines I repair have pre-lube pumps, that run prior to crank phase of startup, combined with oil pressure switch that must be satisfied before cranking begins. I thought that might have been your idea just on smaller scale. Thanks for the videos, I learn from each one, which is so refreshing for me.
I was thinking after watching these shows. If you had a check valve ball that prevented the oil from draining back down. The oil pressure would recover instantly when the pump was charged. Good work Dave. What ever works.
Here's a question though. You added some form of anti-drain-back valve, but what about all of that oil when changing it down the road? Would this cause even more to not be changeable?
I agree with the last guy Mr Dave. most peoples elevators don't go to the top floor. Most clowns that claim there's nothing wrong with these motors cant and don't understand how a diesel engine works. if I lived in Utah I would love to work for you keep up the good work Mr Dave.
I only drive Honda's & Toyota's made in japan! I really have never needed a Mechanic because those dont break down.. but im real picky who i let change my oil on my cars & basic Maintenance but i would Definitely let this man/shop do it. But i live in Georgia!.
@@mrmotofyToyota trucks have not had frame issues in many many years. Anything made since 2006 have had no issues and Landcruisers never did. Toyota is the best made out there, is this even a question?
@@mrmotofy And I believe Toyota replaced the vast majority of the frames at no cost to the owners. Let’s see Ford or GM ever do that for their customers on all of their bad transmissions, engines, electrical gremlins, rusted out rocker panels…
What a crazy engine design!! That aluminum oil pan is so complex it's ridiculous, (must cost $1500 plus just for that), such a roundabout route for the oil. Ford (and I love Ford) had a similar problem with the 351 Cleveland. That, sent the oil to the cam, then the rockers, finally the crank, should have been the other way around!! and those lifters are the most unnecessarily complicated thing I've ever seen, as Dave says Bad, Bad, Bad!!
You re giving ford engineers a lesson, genius man , hopefully when the engine oil system is air tight when everything on , it may take a little longer to drain back into the pan
This is very interesting and glad you are sharing. I only thought of one difference between a cold start and your test. Aren’t cold starts usually at a higher rpm than 500? Did you install a check valve to stop the oil from draining back to the pan?
Lol, I was thinking the same thing. But you also need to make provisions for an oil change. You can't leave the 2 quarts of used oil in front of the check valve.
@@RobotsCanDoAnythingI would rather have 2 qts of used oil able to lube the bears after the service then 8 sec delay before clean oil gets to the bearings
@@elliottb7009 that's not necessarily true. There's a difference between volume and flow on a physics level. One I can't explain in a short TH-cam response. The check valve idea was mentioned as well. But that would prevent ALL the oil from draining out of the motor during an oil change. And with the internal volume of the 6.7s multiple passages in the pan and block and cam etc, it would leave a LOT of old oil in the motor. If you ready the responses above it was stated that the "secret" was hinted at in another of his TH-cam posts. And that the answer was reducing the size of the pickup tube. That would in essence increase velocity at THAT particular point of the system while also creating somewhat of a "restrictor" in the oil passage system to slow the drain back issue.
Great episode Dave!!! Not only was the suspected problem of the lubrication system found, but You also verified the extent of how much time it took for the lube system to pressurise after the engine started cranking.... Then after you developed an improvement for this situation, You tested it again and verified the 40% quicker oil pressure build-up time to develop the crucial oil pressure prior to the engine starting-up... OUTSTANDING!!!! You could patent this ifea and sell it in the open market !!! This reminds me when I worked at a mine, and the Cat 793 haul trucks with the 3516 V-16 2,400 hp engines.... Before starting that machine, the sound of a pump came on for about 10 seconds, then the impingement (air driven) starter motor would start spinning that engine... My guess, is that was a pre-lube pump for the engine oil, before initial start-up....
Actually the low oil pressure when Dave started the engine is because his engine test unit starts to roll the engine over very slowly. He actually had oil flow right away it just didn’t produce much flow because his engine tester starts so slowly. I would say they are using an electric motor controller with to much ramp up time to get to the target rpm. He should shorten this to 1 second max.
@@robm3357 I believe that Dave adjusted the machine driving the engine for realistic conditions during engine start- up... That is the usual cranking speed (rpm) of a cold engine before it starts... And if a cold engine starts immediately, the problem becomes much worse.... Cold oil flows very much differently than warm oil... The main problem occurs from the vacuum on the inlet side of the pump, as even a perfect vacuum will only be able to produce a maximum Delta P (differential pressure) of no more than 14.6 psig ... That's it... Cold oil won't flow very easily and the long large volumes of those inlet passages to the pump from the pan, even in the best conditions could easily STARVE (CAVITATE) the oil pump and the bearings will be under load with little or no oil pressure being fed to them for several seconds... Bad engineering BAD!!!!
@@michaelmartinez1345 understood, someone mentioned that after his fix it still didn’t produce much oil right away. I was trying to say that the lack of instant oil pressure was because of the slow ramp up speed to 500 rpm. Most heavy electric motors are connected to a VFD. VFDs have the ability to slowly ramp up to the set speed. It keeps inrush motor start current down. So I was saying if he set the ramp up speed to get to idle rpm faster it would show that his back flow valve was doing a great job. Now if he had an idea for the really bad engineering of the Subaru oil filter (being mounted upside down ) and emptying completely out over night and causing dry start every morning that would be great….. And a back flow valve won’t work on this issue…..
@@robm3357 That is something that could be an issue, mounting engine oil filters 'upside down' possibly allowing trapped particles to clocg the pleated element.... But the Isuzu Duramax engines that I have seen have their engine oil filters mounted either the normal installation side facing up or the filter running horizontal.... Never have I seen a Duramax stock engine oil filter mounted 'upside down' as You put it... As far as the 'VFD' on the cranking motors in that test stand, possibly causing slow times to bring engine oil pressure up, then if that was the real issue, then wouldn't it not have made a difference to bring the oil delivery time even after the repair that Dave made? What Dave did there actually worked. , whatever it was... It brought the engine oil delivery time down to less than 1/2....
@@michaelmartinez1345 Subaru oil filters are mounted upside down not Duramax. If you watch the video of the before and after repair you can see how slow the test stand takes to get to 500 RPM (Typical Cranking Speed) you can notice after the back Flo valve install how the oil starts flowing as soon as the engine starts turning. But it is very low flow because of the slow ramp up speed of the test stand. But it does show that the back flow valve does indeed work. I’m just saying the test would be better if the VFD was set to ramp up quicker.
I like what you do. Your not a motor builder, your a magician. I like your serious and your determination to fo a god job. Thks for what you do. (Excuse my english, i'm french 😂)
I gotta meet I'm an engin head and I never knew that 8 seconds or close to 6 seconds Would do that much damage to an engine I never thought it would actually take that long for the order pressure to get to the top of the engine This is all new to me I like this it definitely gives you a different output on engines capabilities and performances of lubrication and trying to stay Efficiency enough not to break
To Dave at Dave's service center sir I do agree with you about the 6.7 power stroke diesel engine falling about before they should because they are starving for oil
Way back in the day(1972) ,the workshop manual on our Lancia said to crank the engine over(plugs out of course) for a few seconds 11:57 after you drain the sump.Now I realize they must have had a similar foot valve arrangement Dave.That way the oil galleries get emptied for the fresh oil to replenish.Never could bring myself to do it! Never had a bearing problem in over 100k miles either.Great video's btw😊
Mad respect on the check valve Dave! You figured it about two quarts of oil stays in the upper system so now when the oil is changed that additional two quarts is just going to stay in there so would you lower the oil change interval? Or just let her go?
I’m betting Dave installed a one way check valve that prevents back flow after engine shutdown. If you Add up all those extra seconds saved on engine startups, that ends up being a significantly lower amount of time saved in dry start time and it looked like there was oil instantly flowing (albeit at a lower pressure ) when cranking engine. Nice upgrade Dave! Love your videos.
I agree with you, that’s probably what he did. My question is when changing the oil will that mean the 2 quarts of old oil stay in the motor and not be able to be drained?
@@jacobmartin1951 Great question! Most probably that is so. Partial solution is to add 1-2 qts of fresh oil, run motor for 30 seconds and re-drain oil, and re-fill with normal amount. You will replace much of the dirty oil with fresh oil, and the new filter can pull the rest of the contaminants out during normal operation. Alternatively it is possible to install a fine particle bypass filter, but that is better suited ($$$) to heavy truck applications.
If I had one of these new high output diesel engines that are in these new trucks I would most definitely add a bypass filter. I also like the idea of swapping to the bigger and better CAT filter.
Same thought, right at the pickup after sift... let us watch😊
Just think a newer diesel starts after 1 second of cranking so you have 7 seconds at 1000 rpm possibly high idle 1250 1400 for 6 seconds and boom main bearings goes by by
What impressive about Dave is he really takes pride in his work and not many people really do now days. He has the patience and intelligence to diagnose and solve problems. And he has the shop and tools to do the job right.
Got to love an engine builder who goes the extra mile.
Send it
I am a retired Airborne State Trooper, and on our piston engines we installed a pre-oiler. It was electric 12v and it just felt good to start an engine that, at start had oil pressure, especially in winter if it had been outside. We always made TBO.
I enjoy the technical aspect and clean enviro. of your vids..
I have an old 5.9 Cummins with 240,000 miles and she's just getting started.
There is preoiler that uses oil pressure when motor ran last. Before shutting off,you close valve on preoiler. You open it before starting motor.
That the post I was coming to make. Glad I read ahead! :)
@Old Cowboy450 , Very interesting... What type of planes did you fly out of ? What type of engines did they have? Do you know the # of the STC of those pre-oiler kits? Reading some of the replies that other subscribers have contributed here, gave me several ideas about various ways of Pre-oiling engines before start-up... I was wondering if anybody has installed an accumulator, with an electrically controlled valve to open it to the Lube System.... As the ignition switch is activated, that electrical circuit could send a signal to an electrically controlled valve, on a hydraulic accunulator , to pressurize the engine oil directly to a point in the engine lube system.... 11:57
@@michaelmartinez1345 If you are into planes I had '76 Cessna T-210 with a Continental TSIO-520-H. I never had the preoiler but I know it was available for my model. I did have electric (wall plug) oil pan and cylinder heaters so on cold days I did at least thin the oil! :)
On that note I love Continentals because the cam is under the crank so they got extended drippage and did not dry out like Lycoming cams above the crank do.
I could talk a LOT more about oil on 500+ cubic inch air cooled airplane engines but I will stop there in case no one gives a shit! LOL! BUT I will gladly ramble on more if you do!
@@robjohnson8522 Awesome !!!! I like your appreciation of opposed engines that have camshafts below the crankshafts, like the air-cooled VW's & the Air cooled BMW boxer twin M/C engines..., When it comes to planes, yes, I can ramble with the best of them... Most of my aviation experience (20+ years) is with maintenance and repairs of large turbine airliners and cargo planes... I have about 3 years of experience working on CH-46 Helo's (U.S.M.C.)...And about 1-year of experience maintaining & repairing part 91 and part 123 single & twin engine recip. G.A aircraft of various types at an FBO... (Pre-9/11/01) ... That idea of equipping the STC of the engine oil pan & jug warmers 😮😃 to the tsio 520 TCM is a good one, to get her fluidz moving rapidly 😮.... Nothing like warmed jugs & fluidz to get the chilled homesick angel to respond when she's needed... The V-16 Cats that I used to work on in those model # 793 mining trucks, were usually warm when they were tasked to do transfers of Mining materials as that mine and several other mines, are 24/7 operations.... However, they always pre-lubed those engines before they were started with an electric oil pump that was plumbed into the engine's main lube galleys.... They have 4-ea. turbo-chargers on each of those 3,516 cid 2,400 H.P. diesel engines...The 793 B's we had fully loaded weighed close to 500 tons..The 3,516 engines were also used on the Cat model #993 large wheel loaders, which helped the operation by loading the haul trucks in spots that the 3.8 million pound P&H rope shovels they have , could not easily get to....Doing things that can extend the life of our personal vehicles, could save us thousands of $ ... When the companies do these types of things to their equipment & vehicles, it could save them Millions of $....
So , from doing these types of things, we can give ourselves a better chance to survive the worst financial situations that many people can't even begin to imagine.. This is being prepared....
We use check valves in the aerospace industry all the time just because of this. Very Smart Dave
In industrial applications ( Im a power plant operator), a check valve on the suction side of a pump to prevent loss of prime is called a foot valve. Nice video and nice work!
Every water well has one.
It's incredible that all combustion engines don't have this. It seems like such a basic thing that could do a lot of good, with the only real risk being that some fail and do not hold in the pressure, which would be the current state of things!
I called this a feature of planned obsolescence, but more like planned failure right after warranty period expires. Why sell an engine or vehicle once when you can plan a failure and get repeat customers?@@brahtrumpwonbigly7309
@3DProductions I totally agree. I work on a 7FA.3/ D11 combined cycle and our literature refers to them as simply check valves as well. The term "foot valve" is a very antiquated term that I believe is no longer used. We have equipment at my plant dating back to the early 60s and that's where Ive seen the term used. Similar to "root/ keeper" vs. "primary/ secondary "
Engine manufacturers could do this, but let's face it, they don't want their engines to last forever it's bad for business.
Being 70 years old I remember in 1971 Chrysler came out and advised owners NOT to use LEE Oil Filters. Chrysler said that the LEE's allow engine Oil to drain back into the Oil Pan and thus every time you started your engine the Oil pump had to refill the Filter being akin to a Oil Change or First start after Oil service. Now here we are 2024 . Some things change and some do not. Great content. Bless you and yours.
Same age has you . I remember oil filters without the rubber check in them . the lifters would sing a few seconds on start up . In 2012 my mother went to jiffy lube for oil change a week later i drive the car on start up in heard the lifters and knew what it was my first was napa for a wix filter . the filter they used had no anti drain back in it .
Thank goodness I listened to Bill Hewitt and used Archoil 9100 in my 410,000 mile 6.7, since it was new. I’ve never had the typewriter tick after any oil changes or any unusual noises. After seeing this and the results of Archoil fuel additive, I truly believe Bill knew what he was talking about and thank you Dave for bringing this to our attention.
Archoil is the BEST fuel additive if ever used. Made a huge difference in my Hino 8.0 diesel
Same here, arch oil fuel/ oil additive. Thank you Dave and Bill! RIP Bill!
I just came across your channel after being sent it from a friend, and after watching a few videos, it makes me happy that there’s an actual shop out there with guys that know what they’re doing. That is so hard to find nowadays. You and your crew put 95%+ of other shops and mechanics to shame.
Check valve in the pick up tube. That’s why you don’t lose the prime on your well for your sprinkler system.
So if that’s the fix that oil won’t drain out when you change the oil
I thought the same thing but polymers brake down in oil
@@nayBobbwho cares bout a 1/2 a quart of oil if your turbo, cam, lifters, rockers, and bearings last another 150,000 miles….. just upgrade to an oil pan that holds an extra two quarts.
@@braddycarter9312you missed the entire point of the video. The oil system drains back almost immediately. As shown in the video. Increasing the capacity won't stop or affect drain back. The solution is mentioned above in another reply
@@highpsiguy4085check the comment of the person I tagged to see what they said before trying to explain to me what I already know 😂
When I purchased my 250HD with that motor new from the dealer, the very FIRST THING I did was to install a prelubricator system. So that prior to startup, an electric oil pump would fully pressurize the entire oil system, preventing dry startups. The unit I purchased also had a post lubrication feature, so that upon shutdown, the pump would run (I think for two minutes) to help cool the turbo and its bearings to prevent coking the bearings as it sat there soaking (otherwise non-flowing oil) in the heat.
Where can I buy the prelubercator system?
how does that work on new cars. i figure on old cars with keys i assume it turns on before you crank the car when you put the key in the power position so like radio and light come on. but modern cars are push button right? so how do they power on systems before you push to start? do they just do that when they sense the keyfob?
@phgamer4393 If I remember correctly, there's an option to activate the preluber with a push-button. So just depress the button and let the system pressurize the oil galleys prior to starting.
I enjoy hearing him praise and give credit to his children. Sign of a good man.
Reposting my comment on Dave's Part 1 video - I have a Ford 6.8L V10 gasser in a 1997 Class C motorhome. Whenever I put the vehicle into storage, I remove the fuel pump fuse so the next time i start the engine, it will crank without fuel. When starting the next time, I crank the engine for about 45 seconds hoping that's enough time to get the crankshaft, cylinders & cams lubricated before replacing the fuel pump fuse and starting the engine. And you bet, whenever I change the oil (every 3500 mi), I fill the NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter with oil. Engine has 80K miles on it, and burns zero oil. Thank you this video Dave - your video confirms my '78 BSME intuition that I haven't been wasting my time! And I sure hope Ford engineers are watching & following your channel!
Were all happy for ya.........Your wasting your money changing oil every 3500 mile.
But, you do what you want.
They wouldn't WANT you designing a motor for them Dave. That would be making something rock solid if u did. Excellent video!
Thanks 👍
Exactly. Ford is an evil engineered-to-fail monster continually bailed out by the government. Speedkarr99 shows how insanely common it is to use plastic parts in engines. It's defrauding consumers as an engineering approach.
Somebody to gave me a sounds up for something that I don't know why I asked about what he thought about the 7.3 turbo diesel that came out in the 73 model Ford trucks
@@eugenesiedl5065Ford Didn't have a 7.3 Diesel in 1973 I remember they had a 6.9 turbo Diesel in the 80s
Maybe he means the 7.3L IDI “Turbo Diesel” from 1993-Early 1994?
Those were basically the same 7.3l IDI motors with upgraded cylinder heads and a ATS aftermarket turbo. We worked on a lot of those back in the 1990s.
Dave, you are far smarter than me but I'm watching your videos and enjoying them.. My Dad ran a shop and I worked close to him for about fifty years.Unfortunately he did not get an education as have. He is now 82 and still able to work smaller jobs. Years ago he did do allot of complete engine rebuilds and very few comeback s
“Oh the tick is normal after an oil change”
No ford, your “anti drainback” system sucks.
Great work man, the world needs more people like you.
Great content as usual Dave. I run a repair shop and think along the same lines- always trying to figure out why things fail prematurely and try to improve the end product and make the repair last longer than the factory did. I really like what you did with the oil system.
There were a couple comments I saw in regard to the system being open on top (no turbo installed) and while it is true that having the turbo installed will help hold the oil up, gravity is always pulling down and all bearings have tolerances allowing air to enter the oil system starting on top and filling the void left by the oil going back to the oil pan. And as an engine ages those tolerances increase which allows air to enter behind the oil moving down even faster. Then add in the temperature factor and when you shut down an engine hot, that oil will move back to the oil pan that much faster due the lower oil viscosity.
There are also a few questions and comments in regard to the oil stuck in the engine when doing an oil change with the check valve (I think the technical term is foot valve) installed. I think there is less oil left in the engine than one would think. I always remove the oil filter first and then drain the oil- most of the oil above the filter will drain out. In the grand scheme of things, that quart that would be left is inconsequential if good maintenance is performed/kept up with. Think of the 7.3L powerstroke- there is about a quart of oil up top (in the HPOP reservoir) that most people don’t drain when doing service and it is really inconsequential if you do proper maintenance. I would go as far as say it would be better to leave the oil there for quicker startup lubrication after service.
I think where this will really make a difference is as the engine wears (I don’t think it will wear as fast as if there was no check valve due to quicker oiling on start up) and not just the engine but the turbo as well, this will really help keep the oil where it belongs. Not to mention, if you don’t drive every day, it will help with or eliminate dry starts from day one.
Thanks for all the quality content, keep it up!
When you said, "this is what engine builder's do". I about screamed! Damn right! Without exactly knowing, I figure you designed a check valve to keep the oil from draining back into the pan. And perhaps a pre-oiler that comes on when the ignition is turned to the on position. That being said. It's people like you: engine builder's, hot rodders, shade tree mechanics, farmers, etc that see an issue and figure out what to do about it. It's amazing!!!! BRAVO!!!
That means a lot! Thanks for watching and giving your feedback
@tomcampbell6363: Yes, I was also thinking this guy must have been a farmer.
Wow! I wasn’t expecting it to take that long. Great illumination
You should design a part so we can install it to our existing running 6.7 to prolong the life. I’m sure you will get lots of buyers.. like a modified pickup tube with the check valve in exchange for our stock one.
Thanks for the feedback and the confidence, brother!
excellent videos Dave !
For all the big 3 engines. I know my 21’ Cummins has the same problem and of course went to hydraulic lifters 🤦
@@DavesAutoCenterCenterville I will take 2!
Dave is the best mechanic I have ever seen! The dedication to excellence Dave demonstrates is what the whole industry should take note of
I agree there is alot of space in the oil system to fill and get pressure. I've worked and ford dealer pretty much the hole time the 6.7 has been out. I've only repaired like 4 engines in that time. And they where damaged from a lack of oil in the sump. 17-19 got really bad crank case breathers that clogged and cause the engine to consume oil and company trucks don't ever get the oil checked. I think this is why you see so many 6.7 with smoked bearing.
Good point that CCV filter Brewster should be changed regularly but never does.
@@Bacongrease00 ford came out with an updated part that doesn't have the paper filter in it.
That and really hard core tuning power stroke help did a video on main bearing failures. He saw from the aftermarket side of things, the tolerances are really tight, and the main bearing gets hammered terribly by way too much ignition timing
What about 20 and later?
You know it's interesting, they say like 80% of their engine rebuilds are due to lack of maintenance, and then publish videos like this. Ugly oil would definitely contribute, but what about most of us whose engines don't blow up? Mine is 4 years old, not a hint of an issue.
That is so awesome. It is the love for what he does that separates him from the rest. I Love Dave's passion and dedication. We learn something new every time. What a great channel. I spend hours just viewing his stuff and I Love it keeps me sane. Thank you.
I used to live in Edmonton AB, I had a snow plowing business and a couple friends had these 6.7 Powerstrokes. We all used to go out during the middle of the night to clean snow. I cant imagine how long 5-40 or ever 0-40 full synthetic would take the prime that engine at -45 or -50 Celsius (nearly -60F) even IF they’re plugged in, that oil is thick.
I don’t think its feasible/practical, but if you could figure out a way to run this test at low temps, and not 75 degrees in a shop… I bet the time to prime that turbo pedestal is 20 seconds.
Up in the nwt alot of people run them but most have pan heater and block heater past -10 also the town i live in takes 5 minutes to get to the other side they get a 1/10th of the mileage ab trucks get
Doubt it takes that long. It still moves quite quickly when it's cold, just takes more energy to do it.
If I could afford it, I would drive from where I live in NC to his shop to have him fix my engine if it ever needed it!!! This man is an EXTREMELY TALENTED INDIVIDUAL!!!
So funny you say that, I was looking at my schedule recently, to see if I could pull it off on my truck. I live in WNC😂
Sir much respect this world needs more men like you
Nice to see folks that have pride in their work and look for solutions. I think the big automakers don’t want to fix some things.
I worked in emergency power field, some large engines we used, 50 and 60 liter engines, had prelube pumps on them that could be programmed to run every thirty minutes until
the oil system was pressurized.
This was to prevent this same problem when the generator was started in an emergency start situation for a hospital or other critical facility. They also had block heaters on them to keep the cooling system 90-120 degrees.
These engines held 48-110 gallons of oil depending on the oil sump configuration and other items
I’ve been a part of 6.0/6.4/6.7 diesel forums for a long time. Never really saw a rash of these failures unless there was an underlying cause such as lack of maintenance or user error. The 2011-2013 motors did have some turbo and valve issues. Either way this is great stuff. My 6.0 takes about 3-4 seconds to move the dummy gauge but after 250K tear down it looked good.
Thanks for the feedback and for watching!
I've been a ford tech for about 20yrs, and I've seen a LOT of 6.7 main bearings failures (have one at my work as I type this waiting on an engine). And it's been a mix of trucks with stellar and questionable maintenance keeping. So it's definitely more of an engineering fault than a maintenance fault.
Its easy to see how engines get destroyed without regular oil changes. How those tiny passages in the Cam and other areas stay open and clear is crazy. I see it as a crappy design. But it's like that on many engines.
Dave's videos are extremely informative and entertaining for motorheads like me!
When Dave or Cass from Choate engineering make videos, I'm tuned all the way in. Both of yall make some of the most fascinating videos of them all. I could listen and watch these all day and never tire of learning ans storing the immense information.
Thanks Dave, this is quality TH-cam right here. Thanks for sharing and takikg the time. We ALL seriously appreciate it
Gale Banks does some pretty similar style
Sure, appreciate the compliment! It's viewers like you that make it all worthwhile
absolutely, well said^^^^^
@@DavesAutoCenterCentervilleHey, where's part 3 lol? Cmon man 😁
@DavesAutoCenterCenterville just wanted to thank you for these video they help me out a lot and congrats on the Discovery I look forward to seeing your series
These guys are the real engineers His explanation and testing is very thorough,Breaks it down to the T!!!!!! Great video!!!!
Be best part is the end😂.
Just shows that in house r and d makes a difference. I've watched several of your videos and you guys know what's going on. Awesome.
Awesome! Thank you!
Dave. Over the months, I’ve watched this video again and again. You and your son and your team did great work here and it’s inspiring. Making things better is what I live for. I love this fix you invented. I tell this story often and I’m in finance.
Just adding a check valve (foot valve in this case) does come with several drawbacks. There are losses in flow due to the restriction of the foot valve and it will work the pump harder while pumping less volume. It also prevents a complete oil change. I'm sure the "One simple trick that engineers hate" has been tried and abandoned by the auto industry for a very good reason.
Check value isn't necessary. This video is fake. 100% fake. Engine was not maintained correctly. This engine has 2 oil specs
@@RobSackettXTRprovide proof or shut the fuck up😊
All check valves are not created equal. If you select/modify the right check valve, the slight reduction in oil flow will be negligible. The oil flow on a normally well maintained engine will be in excess of the minimum required flow rate. Compare how high the oil stream going into the plastic cup before the fix versus post fix. Not a significant difference. The extended life due to reduced oil starvation on cold startup far exceeds the little reduction in oil flow due to losses in the check valve (restriction and turbulence). The video illustrates a very good engineering design tradeoff for drastically increased engine life.
Better add some kind of modification note on the engine or I forsee all those engines being overfilled after an oil change!
Years ago I worked for Fram in the engineering model shop.
There was an ever present notion that all parts should be least-cost.
A check valve in the pickup tube may not suit your sympathies but it's better than the original design and a kick in the ass with a frozen boot
Good job Dave. The only way to prevent the oil from going back is probably what Dave did and installed a check valve or some type of one way gate valve. Hats off to Dave.
We need to have you on our show!!! Knowledge master Dave
Yes!!
Another 6.7 money pit story seriously glad I ditched mine
@@stevenbrooks1243 ditto and they're way too easy for a bad mechanic to screw up due to how complicated they are, ditched mine for the other 6.7 of the inline variety, hope it holds up. There aren't enough ARods, Bills and Daves to go around...
@@wtbman don't forget Flying Wrenches, Ford Boss, Choate Engineering, In The Shop, Custom Works, Diesel Tech Ron, and a handful I can't remember off hand at the moment.
All awesome channels with loads of information! Shout out to ALL the in the Ford brotherhood!
I'm glad YOU saw this. :)
One way/ no return valve.
This man deserves even more recognition! We can see he truly dedicates himself and he loves what he does!
Perfect professional👌👌
The manufacturer knows that they have a problem. All of them. They know how to make a vehicle live until the warranty expires. That's all they care about.
I was in a service meeting years ago. They said that 85% of people do not return to the dealership after the warranty period.
This is how they get back their lost business. Either you'll be in the service department, or you'll be in the sales department.
You can not 100% eliminate warranty repairs something will fail at some point. Made by humans or machine something will be over looked cause a failure, mismachined, small spot wasn't tempered or hardened right, bearing pressed in .002 to far or .002 shallow list be endless possibilities
@@TEXMECHANIC I have to sort of disagree with you on this one - with good quality control and the proper processes, it can be reduced to near zero, especially if you are talking about failures during the warranty period. Go back and look at how American manufacturers built airplanes during WWII that, at the end of the assembly line, flew off into the war. That wasn't by accident. After the war US manufacturers got lazy and cost-cutting, and QC Guru Deming went over to Japan and taught them how to do it, leading to their quality TVs, cameras, optical equipment, machinery, cars, etc. There is always a battle in companies between the people who want to do it right, and the people who want to do it quick and cheap. That never changes.
@redmondjp no matter how good quality control there still things can not prevent you can not check every component every time production would be drastically long and not fulfill demand.
@@TEXMECHANIC Have you ever worked in manufacturing? Quality starts with the raw materials and works all the way down the line, so to speak. One of my employers machined aluminum parts for a major airplane manufacturer. They have a paper trail for each lot of aluminum that they receive. Each step in the process has a quality check so bad parts aren't sent further along. I started working for a major GM parts supplier in the 1980s and have worked in heavy-truck, off-road, and aerial lift vehicle manufacturing as well as parts suppliers to those same companies. There are some rare failures but a properly-designed manufacturing process integrated with QC at every step goes a long way to all but eliminating most failures.
all,, warranty,s.. are worth sht.. paper.. fact.. even oil changes dont happen.. money for nothing.. ill buy a 40 yr old car, & fix it, its cheaper, & lasts longer..
Excellent work. A definite fix so long as oil change intervals are maintained due to the two quarts of dirty oil left in the galleys after an oil change.
Here’s the factory fix.
Computer controlled primer pump that works in conjunction with a wait to start light that disables cranking until a set oil pressure is achieved. Then cranking enabled with pump disabled when a pre determined rpm signal is detected by the engine ECM.
I like your fix Dave since I could grow hair waiting for the manufacturer to act.
Since this series of videos I have been screaming,,,,,,preaching to our quicklane teams,,,,,,,,PRIME YOUR DAMN OIL FILTER !!!!!!! thank you Dave. Now I got proof to show em.
Dave I’m a retired GM tech just retired man that that is great. I thought I was good but you’re the best I don’t know what the issue is with the Duramax but I will tell you they are a pure piece of junk constant crankshaft, breaking camshaft breaking dropping valves I have never in my life figured out why GM continues to use this engine, but kudos to you brother. Keep on keeping on.
Gm needs to use Cummings imo.
Duramax is a solid engine Idk what your talking about. Have had 2 go over 300k and one to almost 500k. Still running the lbz with 315k on it. Sold the lb7 with 450k on it and had no blow by. Problem is people go by the computer on the truck and change the oil every 10-12k miles instead of 5-6k. The other reason for failures is people tuning them to crazy power levels and running them like drag cars. Cummins is a good motor but theyre not bullet proof, they have major problems with turbo sooting up and head bolts stretching. Take care of things and they last its amazing.
@@454budman you would be correct on the maintenance part but as a GM diesel tech I have never seen a Duramax run 1,000,000 miles. The motor always goes before then but the 5.9 Cummins the 6.7 Cummins the 7.3 power stroke I see have done with ease, but the people regular maintain those vehicles to do that
@@leewalker3514 ill take a motor i have to rebuild every million miles over a truck that needs 4 trannies and 10 front ends in that time frame. Ive seen a couple go the distance theres no doubt cummins is a solid built motor tho. The 7.3 i had was a pos
@@454budman again it’s maintenance. My brother had a second GEN 5.9 Cummins the transmission run 808,000 miles before it went out because every 12 months he dropped the fluid and put new filters in it so again it comes to maintenance you would agree.
Should be like the glow plugs before you can start here should be a button before. You can start the truck that circulates the oil with an external pump. So the check valve isn't keeping that oil up there during oil change.
You are a true gearhead Dave!!! Love watching what you do. Not only are you figuring out points of failure, but you provide awesome solutions to make these power plants produce more power, and better reliability. And that is what it's about, if you truly have a passion for what you do!!! Thank you for sharing, always a treat watching and learning from someone with knowledge and passion 😊
It all makes sense now. My 6.7 powerstroke blew up right after the warranty expired at 89k miles costing me $19,600 at Gillette diesel in bluffdale.
I love it Dave I love watching your videos reminds me of the good old days when I used to get yelled at for take a little bit longer on someone's vehicle to make it right cuz the factories make a lot of mistakes. I used to race my own cars I know in a motor needs oil immediately
I have nothing but respect for your entire troubleshooting and solution finding process. Will be great to see how it works out for the longevity of the motor. 😊
For real because ford needs all the help it can get.
Something to consider here - the truck isn't cranking at 500rpm for 7 seconds. It cranks at 500 RPM for maybe 1 or 2 seconds and then jumps to 1500+ RPM. So the SIM test isn't completely accurate, but I think Dave still has a valuable point going down this rabbit hole.
Dave! You The MAN! You are 1 in a MILLION!😊
Priming pump would solve this. Standard on heavy equipment. mounted externally so no teardown and you have the stock oiling even if it fails.
If your a young tech, you need to watch this guy, this is how a real shop should run, if your good at what you do go see these guys and get a job! I would if i was younger and not medically retired tech 35 years.
I’d be very curious to see how long is takes for the older long lasting engines like the 7.3 and 5.9s to get oil to the top like this
7.3 holds a lotta oil in the oil cooler but it wont drain back into the pan
I have 2 7.3’s and they run super good ! Slow but they will get there !
For sure mine sits a lot 1 or 2 then I pull my boat but I don’t fish everyday it’s an 03 last of 7.3 s 214 k on it so far she’s been a great truck only issue was a hot start I got a cpi from
Auto parts store instead of going to ford after a pain in the ass trouble shooting four part no good went to ford and and replaced the new ones are 3/4 on the rocker cover r\s than the original 5/8 and new thermostat also on the 6.7 is check the radiator cap for 15$ it’s not worth an engine when it’s getting too hot That engine needs preasure
older engines didnt use synthetic garbage oil..
@@harrywalker968 do explain.
Back in the day when i worked on heavy equipment, some company had a unique system to precharge the oil system before cranking the engine. I only saw it on one unit that i worked on.
The systen had an oil pump pigeyback on the starter. The starter drive ("bindix")could not engage the flywheel until after engine oil pressure was reached. It sounds like something of this sort would be good for this engine. The electric pump motor could be an independent seperate unit. After engine start you would have this axillary unit to stop running. If i had one of these engines, i think i would seriously conjour up something of this sort, especially after viewing this magnificent demonstration by such an experienced builder.
Emergency generators in hospitals have to maintain oil temperature and pressure along with water temperature 24/7. So, they are using an external charge pump.
Wow! What a fantastic heads-up demonstration on this engine.
Thanks a million for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
I would like to see a more real world test. My 6.7 doesn't crank for two seconds and is at 600ish idle rpm. I also wonder if the added drainback restriction of the turbo being installed would change the result. I like the idea in concept, just would like to see a more real world test.
We hear ya! Thanks for the feedback
Take a straw and place it in a glass full of water, then put your finger over then end and lift it out of the glass, the straw will keep the liquid inside. But when you remove your finger from the top of the straw, the water will drain. The same can be said about not having the turbo on top of the engine, you have removed it from the equation, like the finger on the straw, allowing air to enter the top of the engine and the oil will drain back into the pan unless you have put some sort of check valve to keep the flow stopped. Bad thing about check valves, sometimes they stick open or stick shut. Sticking shut will starve the bearings of any oil. Bad consequences.
And that's this video is completely fake. 100% fake. You are 100% correct dwd3416
The motor is cranking slowly for a couple of seconds. Maybe like 50 rpm, then it spins .
I believe Mr Dave is showing exactly the results as they are although he does not commit to alot of control in his demonstration, The gentleman with the straw analogy certainly has a consideration to illustrate, just because one might be ignorant does not mean he is deceitful.
I just love your videos they are so educational and well explained in a very not so boring way. I just got into the mechanics and motors, but I could see how this would be a must watch channel for motor heads!
Over 100 of these engines in our fleet. Worked hard every day. ZERO base engine failures.
We have 1000 of these engines with over 300,000 hours each . Never a issue 😂
@@mr.anderson9938 whatever dude. It’s a fact
Yes because of proper maintenance. The engine is this video was not maintained. This video is completely fake. 100% fake
@@RobSackettXTRWhy is it fake?
All modern engines start and run almost Immediately. This video shows 8 second for oil to get to the turbo. The engine is cranking very slowly and so is the oil pump. The test is completely fake and not real world at all. If all engines started this way, ALL engines would have bearing failures. This engine was not maintained properly, this engine has 2 oil specs.
Out of all the other engines that are designed to last, these 6.7L Fords appear to be designed to fail.
I mean seeing a couple of pounds dropoff in oil pressure after break-in is expected, but I've known these to lose oil pressure exponentially throughout their lifetime, which is usually short compared to most other diesel engines.
Great video describing the problem and the solution (I know what it is). 😊
Awesome video! Makes me think of a set up in one of my vehicles... I have a 1968 dodge charger with a 440 under the hood. I have a 3 quart pre-oiler by moroso (23900) and when you hit the key, it dumps the oil into the top of the motor, pre-oiling it.
shouldnt need it,,seeing it uses mineral oil,, not synthetic crap.. ie- water..0w 5, water..
It's so funny how people who have rebuilt one motor may think they can tell you if something is wrong with a motor or not!!
Awesome video, great information!
I presume that you're installing some sort of check valve in the oiling system to prevent the draining. What I want to know is , just exactly how you did it and where you did it , and are you going to make this available to the public at a reasonable price . I believe you've accomplished what you set out to do . Way to go , congrats on a job well done. ( I am a retired technician w/ 40 plus yrs experience. This is the sort of thing I yearn to learn.😮
One of the issues I see is how far the motor would have to be torn down to install this check valve , I can't see anyone tearing down a perfectly good running motor to install this , maybe if they were doing a rebuild or something where the motor was being disassembled for some other reason
@wjamesm1001 I'd be willing to bet its on or close to the oil pickup in the sump.
You are awesome dave ! I'm the service Manager at the Chevrolet dealership in reno nv, but I've always been a ford truck guy! But i tell my lube technicians to fill the oil filter on all our vehicles!
Great video! Although I would have a concern with the check valve restriction… we have a very high quality oil designed by Bob and Harry Conklin that has a polar molecule which makes the oil stick to everything, never drains completely dry. The first 10 seconds of the start up process is where you get most of your wear
No it doesn't work
This guy is just so smart. He should be working for the big three. He can fix all of the problems they have.
Agreed, he’s solve all the major problems with the duramax. Powerstroke and Cummins in a week. He’s already figured out a lot of them. But They’d likely lose a ton of money on out of warranty repairs if they had a guy like Dave working for them. But they’d also save alot of money on warranty work. But they probably make more on out of warranty work than they lose on warranty work.
If he did they'd fire him for trying to solve problems because it costs money.
I love your way of thinking and engineering aaaand improving motors, so the customer has a longer living motor.
I'm a car mechanic and I hate telling my customers, that the manufacturer engineered such crapy things because they want the motors to die after warranty.
They always ask, why they do this but it's unfortunately their intention to make more money in such a shameful way. I kinda lost the faith of good engineering in the automotive industry, but your work is such a blessing to every customer. I appreciate your work and all the affort you put in your repairs and rebuilds. Hope to see more interesting and enriching videos😊🎉
We appreciate the high compliment. We will try to live up to that. Thanks for watching.
I thought of the exact same fix and you proved it works so good on you DAVE.
SHAME ON FORD GM DODGE ENGINEERS. These are basic foundational issues for an engine and it shouldn't cost your customers tens of thousands of Dollars before the fix is found.
Great video. I’m assuming that the oil doesn’t drain back, so when you change the oil you don’t quite get all of it out. Not a big deal if it saves the bearings in the motor.
This was my question
VERY NICE DAVE ! You guys appear to bring a lot to the table ! Kudos to you all !! Enjoyed your videos for awhile now !
Great idea! The only concern I have is that per your own calculations there would be about 2 quarts of oil trapped between your one way valve and the top end, correct? If that's the case then you would not be able to get a complete oil change, since there would always be a couple quarts of old oil trapped in the motor. Kinda like Like changing tranny fluid without draining the torque converter. Probably still worth that one drawback, but something to consider
That’s a very good point. The check valve is going to create a blockage to completely draining your system.
You would only trap what is in the pan between the check valve and the oil filter. Everything past the oil filter would drain when you pull it off, so you'd only be keeping about half a quart or so.
I fixed one of those once too Dave, took two of us to lift it into the dumpster...but we did it!
Dave is very smart! First thing when looking for an experienced engine builder is do they know how to get more oil flow, horse power and torque.
Interesting Testing. I also think the issue we are fighting with the modern diesel engines is that the engines start very quickly compared to older diesels. Your not getting the slow Starter driven crankshaft rotations to lube the engine before it starts. Do most engine manufacturers have some sort of check valve in the sump or oil filter to prevent drain back? Thanks for the Videos and Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
old engines didnt use synthetic oil,,which is garbage.. go blame gretta bloombum,, epa,, greenies, for the crap we buy.. &, an ev that self ignites, you cant put out,, so saving the planet, is crap.. they cost more to produce than a normal car, they dont last as long, its all bs smoke & mirrors.. nothing, thats green energy, is re cycleable.. funny,,eh..
Great to see a fix for something over looked by a big company. Again... Great job!
Before you send the motor out check to see how much oil is now in your coolant passages because the other hole next to the oil hole is the coolant drain hole for the turbo and I see it’s not taped off so all that oil coming out hitting the cup is then going straight into that coolant hole just noticed it so I figured I’d say something thanks for your videos
🤯🤠
Are you sure it's not the turbo oil drain?
@@jameseastwood4984the turbo oil drain is the big open cavity not the little hole
Now that’s a huge improvement in time ! Engine will last longer no doubt in my mind ! That’s good thinking and planning ahead !
For the costs of those trucks today I would want mine to last for years with proper maintenance intervals!
The truck I drive now is a 1990 and I really like it , I take care of it
This guy is like Scotty Kilmer just not annoying
Scottys the man!!
Scotty Kilmer but he actually has a reasoned understanding of what he's talking about
Kilmer is all click bait now. Not worth the time.
This guy is the version of scotty Kilmer who knows what they heck he's talking about. 😅
No, Dave wouldn’t make a 12min video that tries to convince you pressure fittings are ok to use on your break lines
As the owner of a 6.7 Powerstroke, I wished Ford would follow your lead and fix this issue. Great videos!
So I'm guessing you fitted a none return valve, wonder if you could design and make it fit to the oil filter housing or oil cooler housing. Would reduce installation time.
Great fix Dave, nice work 👍
5 to 6 motor re builds a month!!!! Damn, it took my mechanic 3 months to re build my 4.6......and it smokes....great show.
Great series! As a 6.7 powerstroke fan and owner I really enjoyed watching this. I’m always looking for ways to fix the kinks in this motor like CCV issues or cp4 issues and this was one I’ve never heard of. The R&D that you guys do is spot on and reminds me of the legend Gale Banks. I would love to hear what the fix is. Im assuming some kind of check valve but is it something that can be done without pulling the motor? Keep up the amazing work!
You know why you haven't heard of this before? Because the video is 100% fake. This engine doesn't take 8 seconds to crank over. 100% FAKE NEWS.
we run 15w40 in the 6.7 and service many - very rare to see bearing failure with that oil
This engine has two oil spec.
This engine in the video, those specs were not followed, that's why it failed
This video is completely fake. 100% fake
Backflow valve it’s that simple. What happens when low detergent oil is used and valve gets stuck? More engine work for you, job security.
Thats right and also putting a lot of faith to customer to service regularly to maintain everything working properly.
Even if 1000s fail under warranty they still come out ahead. The ones you are seeing probably have quite a few miles or months so warranty is over so they don’t go to the dealer for a new motor. You and Ford both exist to make a profit but you go about it differently. $50 per motor adds up to really big money, assuming they can do it for $50 it’s probably more. Ford has done the math on how long they need to last.
There’s plenty of ford diesel engines with over 400k miles and without repairs. Key words quality maintenance
Do you not know how a check valve works? Let's say it did "fail" then the oil flow is right back to where it was from factory, big whoop. What he's done is a great idea
@@nathansparks648yep. And even if it does fail it will at least restrict the flow
Check/foot valve good simple solution for sure. The machines I repair have pre-lube pumps, that run prior to crank phase of startup, combined with oil pressure switch that must be satisfied before cranking begins. I thought that might have been your idea just on smaller scale. Thanks for the videos, I learn from each one, which is so refreshing for me.
Must be a 1 way check valve I’m assuming, I do enjoy watching these videos, you can tell this guy loves what he does.
I do!
Is draining the oil any different now that you’ve changed the setup
I was thinking after watching these shows. If you had a check valve ball that prevented the oil from draining back down. The oil pressure would recover instantly when the pump was charged. Good work Dave. What ever works.
Here's a question though. You added some form of anti-drain-back valve, but what about all of that oil when changing it down the road? Would this cause even more to not be changeable?
I agree with the last guy Mr Dave. most peoples elevators don't go to the top floor. Most clowns that claim there's nothing wrong with these motors cant and don't understand how a diesel engine works. if I lived in Utah I would love to work for you keep up the good work Mr Dave.
I only drive Honda's & Toyota's made in japan! I really have never needed a Mechanic because those dont break down.. but im real picky who i let change my oil on my cars & basic Maintenance but i would Definitely let this man/shop do it. But i live in Georgia!.
I've been driving toyota for 12 years with no problems, and I gave up on GM. I will never go back.
Well Toyota trucks have had frame issues for years with recalls on em sooo not exactly reassuring
@@mrmotofyToyota trucks have not had frame issues in many many years. Anything made since 2006 have had no issues and Landcruisers never did. Toyota is the best made out there, is this even a question?
@@hokie9910 yes it was into the 2000's
@@mrmotofy And I believe Toyota replaced the vast majority of the frames at no cost to the owners. Let’s see Ford or GM ever do that for their customers on all of their bad transmissions, engines, electrical gremlins, rusted out rocker panels…
I sure am learning a lot from you. Thank you for making these videos!
Glad to hear it!
Dave Im a million miles away from your skill set ..but u tip off & teach so much ..Very much enjoy your videos
Wow, thanks
Awesome video! Can you do a test with the 6.7 having the oil filter completely dry and see how long it takes to get oil pressure?
What a crazy engine design!! That aluminum oil pan is so complex it's ridiculous, (must cost $1500 plus just for that), such a roundabout route for the oil. Ford (and I love Ford) had a similar problem with the 351 Cleveland. That, sent the oil to the cam, then the rockers, finally the crank, should have been the other way around!! and those lifters are the most unnecessarily complicated thing I've ever seen, as Dave says Bad, Bad, Bad!!
He need his own show.💯💯👍
He has one...Dave announced that the Discovery Channel had just picked them up!
You re giving ford engineers a lesson, genius man , hopefully when the engine oil system is air tight when everything on , it may take a little longer to drain back into the pan
This is very interesting and glad you are sharing. I only thought of one difference between a cold start and your test.
Aren’t cold starts usually at a higher rpm than 500?
Did you install a check valve to stop the oil from draining back to the pan?
Lol, I was thinking the same thing.
But you also need to make provisions for an oil change.
You can't leave the 2 quarts of used oil in front of the check valve.
@@RobotsCanDoAnythingI would rather have 2 qts of used oil able to lube the bears after the service then 8 sec delay before clean oil gets to the bearings
It was mentioned above that the solution was a smaller diameter oil pickup tube. I cant confirm that myself though.
@@highpsiguy4085 I highly doubt thats the fix, it will not stop flow back also it would severely limiting oil supply. and probably dropping pressure.
@@elliottb7009 that's not necessarily true. There's a difference between volume and flow on a physics level. One I can't explain in a short TH-cam response. The check valve idea was mentioned as well. But that would prevent ALL the oil from draining out of the motor during an oil change. And with the internal volume of the 6.7s multiple passages in the pan and block and cam etc, it would leave a LOT of old oil in the motor.
If you ready the responses above it was stated that the "secret" was hinted at in another of his TH-cam posts. And that the answer was reducing the size of the pickup tube. That would in essence increase velocity at THAT particular point of the system while also creating somewhat of a "restrictor" in the oil passage system to slow the drain back issue.
Great episode Dave!!! Not only was the suspected problem of the lubrication system found, but You also verified the extent of how much time it took for the lube system to pressurise after the engine started cranking.... Then after you developed an improvement for this situation, You tested it again and verified the 40% quicker oil pressure build-up time to develop the crucial oil pressure prior to the engine starting-up... OUTSTANDING!!!! You could patent this ifea and sell it in the open market !!! This reminds me when I worked at a mine, and the Cat 793 haul trucks with the 3516 V-16 2,400 hp engines.... Before starting that machine, the sound of a pump came on for about 10 seconds, then the impingement (air driven) starter motor would start spinning that engine... My guess, is that was a pre-lube pump for the engine oil, before initial start-up....
Actually the low oil pressure when Dave started the engine is because his engine test unit starts to roll the engine over very slowly. He actually had oil flow right away it just didn’t produce much flow because his engine tester starts so slowly. I would say they are using an electric motor controller with to much ramp up time to get to the target rpm. He should shorten this to 1 second max.
@@robm3357 I believe that Dave adjusted the machine driving the engine for realistic conditions during engine start- up... That is the usual cranking speed (rpm) of a cold engine before it starts... And if a cold engine starts immediately, the problem becomes much worse.... Cold oil flows very much differently than warm oil... The main problem occurs from the vacuum on the inlet side of the pump, as even a perfect vacuum will only be able to produce a maximum Delta P (differential pressure) of no more than 14.6 psig ... That's it... Cold oil won't flow very easily and the long large volumes of those inlet passages to the pump from the pan, even in the best conditions could easily STARVE (CAVITATE) the oil pump and the bearings will be under load with little or no oil pressure being fed to them for several seconds... Bad engineering BAD!!!!
@@michaelmartinez1345 understood, someone mentioned that after his fix it still didn’t produce much oil right away. I was trying to say that the lack of instant oil pressure was because of the slow ramp up speed to 500 rpm. Most heavy electric motors are connected to a VFD. VFDs have the ability to slowly ramp up to the set speed. It keeps inrush motor start current down. So I was saying if he set the ramp up speed to get to idle rpm faster it would show that his back flow valve was doing a great job.
Now if he had an idea for the really bad engineering of the Subaru oil filter (being mounted upside down ) and emptying completely out over night and causing dry start every morning that would be great….. And a back flow valve won’t work on this issue…..
@@robm3357 That is something that could be an issue, mounting engine oil filters 'upside down' possibly allowing trapped particles to clocg the pleated element.... But the Isuzu Duramax engines that I have seen have their engine oil filters mounted either the normal installation side facing up or the filter running horizontal.... Never have I seen a Duramax stock engine oil filter mounted 'upside down' as You put it...
As far as the 'VFD' on the cranking motors in that test stand, possibly causing slow times to bring engine oil pressure up, then if that was the real issue, then wouldn't it not have made a difference to bring the oil delivery time even after the repair that Dave made?
What Dave did there actually worked. , whatever it was... It brought the engine oil delivery time down to less than 1/2....
@@michaelmartinez1345 Subaru oil filters are mounted upside down not Duramax. If you watch the video of the before and after repair you can see how slow the test stand takes to get to 500 RPM (Typical Cranking Speed) you can notice after the back Flo valve install how the oil starts flowing as soon as the engine starts turning. But it is very low flow because of the slow ramp up speed of the test stand. But it does show that the back flow valve does indeed work. I’m just saying the test would be better if the VFD was set to ramp up quicker.
I like what you do. Your not a motor builder, your a magician. I like your serious and your determination to fo a god job. Thks for what you do. (Excuse my english, i'm french 😂)
Thank you very much!
I gotta meet I'm an engin head and I never knew that 8 seconds or close to 6 seconds Would do that much damage to an engine I never thought it would actually take that long for the order pressure to get to the top of the engine This is all new to me I like this it definitely gives you a different output on engines capabilities and performances of lubrication and trying to stay Efficiency enough not to break
It doesn't take 8 sec. This video is completely fake. 100% fake
What about a check valve somewhere in the system so it can’t fully drain. Will need a bypass when changing the oil?
To Dave at Dave's service center sir I do agree with you about the 6.7 power stroke diesel engine falling about before they should because they are starving for oil
Great presentation Dave! I thought oil filters have drain-back valves to keep oil in the lubrication system?
Way back in the day(1972) ,the workshop manual on our Lancia said to crank the engine over(plugs out of course) for a few seconds 11:57 after you drain the sump.Now I realize they must have had a similar foot valve arrangement Dave.That way the oil galleries get emptied for the fresh oil to replenish.Never could bring myself to do it!
Never had a bearing problem in over 100k miles either.Great video's btw😊
Mad respect on the check valve Dave!
You figured it about two quarts of oil stays in the upper system so now when the oil is changed that additional two quarts is just going to stay in there so would you lower the oil change interval? Or just let her go?