Sorry,guys, the reason for this is that first batch of KK3 MAX used the same spring mechanical buttons as KingKong 2 PRO,but later changed to use rubber membrane buttons. Its button description was updated accordingly but not that in time,and still caused confusion. Sorry.
You sir may be the reason they removed "Second generation mechanical buttons" image from their official Aliexpress store. Good job uncovering their lies! Respect.
Sorry,guys, the reason for this is that first batch of KK3 MAX used the same spring mechanical buttons as KingKong 2 PRO,but later changed to use rubber membrane buttons.Its button description was updated accordingly but not that in time,and still caused confusion. Sorry.
@@GuliKit man must give you a thumb up for the reply and clarification though, for switch and pc i am using gulitkit kingkong 2 pro, i like the plastic case, hall effect stick dont have to worry too much about joycon drift, the complains from me is no way to tell the battery life when connecting to pc, and also the A B X Y buttons, if i press it from an angle, sometimes will make squeeky noise, but luckily is still not too distracting for me as it is not too loud (but you can pick it up), and also i used to mechanical keyboard sound when gaming
Using Gulikit Kingkong 2 Pro for a few months and it's been great. So far, it's the best controller, great autopilot & macro. Glad to hear they release a new version but if the selling point for the newest version are the paddles, then I'll have to skip to try it out because I find it uncomfortable using extra buttons below the controller. Just like the Gamesir T4 Pro. And here's the reason why I recommend you guys to use Gulikit: - Hall Effect Analog/Joystick & Triggers button - SPARE PARTS! yes, you don't have to buy a new one if your Gulikit buttons somehow broken, just buy the spares.
@@maegnificant no they advertise mechanical and used membrane 20:50, for me i detest rubber membrane specially on the d-pad, cant count how many xbox controller i had to pretty much throw because the damn thing breaks, have a series controller right now for a year and the X botton already feels degraded compared to the other 3.
A lot of people are talking about buttons on the old controller. As somebody who has owned 3 KK2 and 1 KK3, let me tell you what happened and why you shouldnt worry on the KK3. In the KK2 controllers, the buttons were made by producing hundreds on a plastic sheet then punching them out of the mould, like a brand new model/toy figure if youve ever played with/built one. The process left jagged edges on some of the buttons and these sometimes stuck. Removing the buttons and picking off the extra plastic would fix this, the controller was fine. Unfortunately th KK2 didnt come with the button removal tool. The KK3 has much better button quality control. It also comes with the button removal tool, and 4 spare buttons. The button assembly underneath is beautiful easy to clean once removed as well if you are a cheesy doritio finger gamer. I have spent hundreds of dollars on microsofts controllers that last half a year. Ive given gulikit 200 dollars on the KK2, and the 1 KK3 I bought was instantly the best controller ive ever had. It is legitimately one of the best pieces of technology ive ever held.
Note: The correct term for those kind of buttons are "rubber domes", not "rubber membrane". Rubber domes can be quite cool actually. I got two BTC keyboards, and both are quite old, yet are reliable, or at least after I cleaned the PCBs and the conductive sides of the rubber dome mats. These are also some of the rare examples of rubber dome keyboards that are entirely membrane free, and the switches are quite similar to what controllers have (conductive rubber dome over PCB). The reason why many of them got the "membrane" name is people misapplied the sensing mechanism's name to the actuator one. The membranes themselves are consisting of two conductive pieces with traces and a third one with holes punched on it as a separator. There's also quite a few keyboards that have membranes but not rubber domes, the most famous being the Model M/IBM Buckling Spring, another good one is the Acer switch, certain Mitsumi keyboards used shorting prongs with external rubber bells or springs as a return force (which negated the use of multiple membranes at the cost of having to add jumper wires to the now singular membrane), but spring over membrane switches usually are way worse than your average rubber dome over membrane keyboard.
Just a slight correction - the trigger button does NOT sound like a microswitch at all. It sounds like a tactile switch. The difference is that tactile switches are much smaller, while microswitches are the kind of switch you would find in a mouse. Real microswitches have significant advantages: 1. Overtravel - the switch can keep travelling after it has been actuated. 2. Lifetime - while tact switches are rated for 10K-50K actuations, microswitches are rated in the millions of clicks. They can be easily told apart without taking the device apart by the sound - tact switches are much quieter and lower pitched. I do not know if Gulikit lead you on or you came up with "microswitch' on your own, but please do not get the two mixed up - this poisons the language and fills the internet with garbage information.
I’d just like to interject for a moment. What you’re refering to as Linux, is in fact, GNU/Linux, or as I’ve recently taken to calling it, GNU plus Linux. Linux is not an operating system unto itself, but rather another free component of a fully functioning GNU system made useful by the GNU corelibs, shell utilities and vital system components comprising a full OS as defined by POSIX. Many computer users run a modified version of the GNU system every day, without realizing it. Through a peculiar turn of events, the version of GNU which is widely used today is often called Linux, and many of its users are not aware that it is basically the GNU system, developed by the GNU Project. There really is a Linux, and these people are using it, but it is just a part of the system they use. Linux is the kernel: the program in the system that allocates the machine’s resources to the other programs that you run. The kernel is an essential part of an operating system, but useless by itself; it can only function in the context of a complete operating system. Linux is normally used in combination with the GNU operating system: the whole system is basically GNU with Linux added, or GNU/Linux. All the so-called Linux distributions are really distributions of GNU/Linux!
My gen1 buttons used to do the "sticky button" thing. I took it apart and made sure all the plastic was aligned. also lubed it like I would lube mechanical keyboard switchs and they are the best feeling controller buttons I've ever used. I can see this being a minor improvement. wish they would make the trigger hinges out of metal. I can see that breaking after one bad drop.
Honestly, the button membranes are a _huge_ improvement. I tried _three_ different KK2 Pros, and _all_ of them developed "sticky" buttons, which required disassembly and greasing all the switches interiors/springs with lube (I used vaseline); an _extremely_ tedious/annoying process that I don't think anyone who purchased them should ever have to do. I might actually have to pick up the KK3 to see how it performs, because aside from that issue those controllers felt so amazing! Once you go hall-effect, you will never want go back.
Great review. I was so hyped for this controller. I thought it looked gorgeous and was exited about the rear buttons and trigger stops. I'm kinda disappointed by the way the trigger stops have been implemented, also the buttons are a step down compared to the kk2 pro... Kinda sad.
Dude, you rock! I was about to pull the trigger on one of these and I was watching reviews to make sure it was what I wanted. I think I'm going to wait for the Vader 4 or get the Vader 3 pro on sale. Thank you so much for exposing their false marketing and helping consumers make the best choice.
I really like my kk3 so far. I disassembled it to see how it differed internally from an Xbox controller, and I was surprised at how it was so easy to repair compared to first-party controllers. Philips head screws, no easy to break plastic covers, mosfet connectors and ribbon cables instead of soldered wires, an easily replacable battery, etc. I did manage to lose one of the bumper springs, and after consigning it to the void, I realised I liked it more without, so I removed the other one. It's easier to press and makes a nice clicky sound. Time will tell how well it holds up, I suppose. I know I'm never finding that spring again, and I'm not going to just return it, lol.
Interesting to hear about the trigger spring. I didn’t like how much force I need to apply even with the trigger stop enabled, so I guess Ill try without the spring too!
@maouvin_ Bumper spring, not the trigger spring. If you remove the trigger mainspring, I don't think it will work. It appeared to be molded in and is mechanically necessary for the trigger to return to reset. The bumper springs are tiny and located in the L1-R1 top shoulder buttons. They attach to the outside of the trigger mainspring housing and the inside of the bumper. They resemble the springs you find in a ballpoint pen but smaller, and they aren't molded into the mechanism, which is how I lost one. They appear to serve as sound dampeners since the bumpers function just fine without them (albeit louder).
Great Review! I also noticed you can press the back buttons without the paddles. And omg ... it happend to you aswell, I also had my button stuck... I scratched to controller and the button while getting it out with tweezers :/ and I got terrible input lag with the dongle . . . I will watch the full video when I'm home. Liked!!
I made the exact same mistake 😩 Did you get it out with the tweezers, or did you disassemble the controller? I tried both, but the tweezers can't get grip on the button, and the screws inside the controller seem too tight for me to get out!
@@windchime9720 I had really thing tweezers.. I used just 1 side of the tweezers to get in the Side of the button and then I tried to push it up. Like lever it up. sadly I scratches the controller in the process -_- Or try a toothpick, something thin to shove it in the side
I really hated the face buttons on kk2 pro, ended up selling my controller because of that. but if the new once, even if lying, are better, I might get this, because I'm also not fully satisfied with my 8bitdo ultimate.
It's a good controller but the triggers creek sometimes and don't feel as smooth. Also when playing racing games I have to press the throttle half way to get any input.
@@g33k_Tech yes you can. Put your controller in switch mode, pair with the adapter v2, then switch the adapter to switch mode as well (I think youn need to hold BACK and left d-pad). Then Windows will recognize your controller as a switch controller, with support for motion in Steam/Yuzu and everything. I actually use 8BitDo v2 adapter for my Gulikit KK2 this way as well and it works like a charm.
I got my button stuck as well, but I got it out by gripping it with the metal thing included in the box, then slowly tilting/jiggling the button until it became loose enough to lift out the socket. Other than that, my controller is working pretty flawless, but the paddles are kinda bad. They stick out too far, if they both were to sit closer to the controller, it would be perfect.
I always had something bugging me about Gulikit, their innovation was great, but I never thought I needed their controllers, so I bought the Gamesir T4 Kaleid, which has the "same" features, but it's transparent, so you can see all the hardware, they got nothing to hide, meanwhile Gulikit is selling everyone membrane buttons and telling they are mechanical switches. I've never bought a Gulikit controller and I'll never will, great video, you earned my sub!
The t4k is better, they just had an firmware update a couple of weeks ago aka the 0.2.3 which improved the joysticks raw mode which helps the non raw mode
Great review! Also, I own the KK2 and you're the only one who opened up its problems (sticky buttons and paint stripping off the triggers/bumpers). Most if not all reviewers just commend how "perfect" it is.
The metallic paint stripping was an obvious design flaw, metallic paint on plastic doesn't ever hold up well on parts seeing constant handling. Mine did that already but so far the buttons are holding up I'm not much for the looks so its a minor issue to me but I can see people getting deeply annoyed by this. That said I can't go back to potentiometer based analog sticks. Having zero deadzone and smooth sensitivity response is the one things that got me hooked on from the moment I got mine.
@@alexisrivera200xable you're definitely right! I have no complaints about how the triggers and the analog sticks feel. Functionality wise, the controller is great.
LOL, i considered this controller to replace my Apex 2 which got 1 double click face button after 2 years of usage. Glad i went with Vader 3 pro instead since i extremely love the face buttons on Apex 2. Flydigi mecha buttons are the best rn, no contest.
Yeah Flydigi have those clicky buttons with really nice spring. It's probably something proprietary because mecha buttons on other controllers doesn't have this springiness.
I love your honesty, this is the best channel for controllers, also if you want to see durability of kk2 controller i recommend the channel Kaiser do stuff
I got the original and it didn't last long. Had to modify the button holes and stretched the button springs a little so that they didn't get stuck. Then the magnetic triggers startet to lose calibration frequently. I got an 8Bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth Controller which is been great so far.
Mine has deadzones right out of the box, I thought that's normal until I saw this video and other reviews. Thanks Gulikit for making me switch back to 8bitdo 👌
First of all, thanks for the great review. Secondly, in my opinion this is a strange step to the side, but not to forward. This gamepad has a lot of strange solutions and is not worth his price. I’m waiting for my Apex 4. It will come to me around 10 Feb. Interesting to compare them. After i will sell Gulikit KK3 Max.
I sent mail to the company about their" mechanical buttons," and here is their reply. " Hi friend, It's a machine inside, but the springs are replaced with conductive glue."
Nice review. I actually got it just past July 4, looking for a good controller for my switch. It is out of my budget but still bought it. Tested it for a few times but haven't on real gaming yet. Thanks to this video, I finally understand the sensitivity of the right Analog joystick, I thought mine has a problem on MH Rise:Sunbreak. Still, even if it isn't real mechanical, it would take years for me to worn it out. My main worry is thr battery. Thumbs up to you, mate. Subbed.
I believe that the "mechanical button" is just the tactile sensation that can also be felt in addition to springs, switches are different, generally coupled to the board which is not big enough for a control, so the membrane would come in the middle to make the command and the tactile sensation due to some other adjustment. My opinion on how I believe it would work, and it was also a small mistake on Gulikit's part not to have 100% of "dignity" in the word.
Great review. The trigger pivots are the most concerning flaw imo, as I'm not sure how replaceable they are. Everything else is as close to perfect as I could've wanted. Definitely my next controller.
Those vibration motor look like copies of the dualsense motors. They use voice coils for a up, down movement instead of spinning weights like older controllers. Voice coil motors are what speakers use, they just don't have cones because they aren't meant for sound reproduction. Just for more controlled and accurate vibrations.
Subscribed! Thanks for making an in-depth review of this controller. Even though I'm quite disappointed with the fake advertisement, I think I am still gonna buy this one because I like the upgrade from the KK2. Btw.. may I know the game you are playing at the ending? It looks like a Castlevania game but I cannot find a castlevania game on switch with that UI.
The title seemed sorta clickbaity to me at first for some reason but after finishing the video it actually seem quite accurate. This both does seem like a great controller and there was a lie (apparently). I love the amount of detail you went into with this, from the on-screen pros and cons near the end to the recording of the button sounds. I wish you had done a bit more testing of the dpad diagonals. You did mention that it was easy to do diagonals, but sometimes there's an issue of unintended diagonals also. I think some people do a test with Street Fighter or similar to make sure they can do quarter circles precisely, and then they use Contra to make sure the diagonals aren't too sensitive. I have the KK2 and I don't think I have any other controllers with similar macro functionality, so I didn't realize how far ahead they were here. I laughed out loud when you showed that other controller going full tilt on the analog recording playback. A section highlighting just the changes from the KK2 (since I think it was a fairly popular controller being around when the Hall Effect stick craze was really taking off) would've been nice. I can tell some stuff just from watching the review, but it's a lot of info to take in and think about. The lights look new, the paddles are of course new, the buttons are slightly different as you went over. I like the changes they made to the case to let you charge it in there. I don't agree with lack of an app being a con, the last thing I need is another piece of proprietary software just to use* my controller. If there were some sort of open standard I would probably feel differently, though. I like what GP2040-CE gives us for DIY arcade controllers, and what QMK gives us for mechanical keyboards. IIRC you can actually save your macros to a file and share them with people on the KK2, so maybe some sort of retroactive software tweaking would be possible depending on how much of the controller can be exposed when plugged in. * Yes, the controller would probably still work fine without it, but I was annoyed at having to get an app for my 8bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth controller to map the back buttons, and I'm glad you can do so much on the Gulikit without external software. At a glance the KK3 appears to combine the best parts of the KK2 and 8bitdo's Ultimate Bluetooth controller (I own both). If I had waited a bit longer to get one of these I probably would've gotten just the KK3 and been satisfied. I like what Gulikit is doing and I would like to see them put out a controller in the PlayStation style with symmetrical sticks at some point. I'd also like to see them make more modules you can mod into existing controllers like they did with the Joy-Cons and the Steam Deck.
from my experience, the KK2 buttons issue with getting stuck can be addressed by swapping the components between the switches or turning the stem 180 degrees. one of my buttons stuck, i turned the stem around 180 degrees and it happened to click well. I'm guessing it would be issues with tolerances. a slight overlap.
I have the KK2, and my face buttons have never gotten stuck. The buttons being mechanical is a lie, but I wouldn't say they're like other membrane buttons. They're more like a hybrid design because of the spring. Buttons getting stuck seems like a common occurrence, but that may vary between units.
Thank u so much for testing the joysticks. The kk2 pro lied about their deadzones. They had deadzones with the kk2 pro. Im glad the kk3 pro doesnt have any at all.
Controllers interior construction seems more sophisticated than all the first party controllers ive looked at for sure more advanced than the Xbox One/Series or PS4 controllers. Havent messed with a PS5 one yet
Finally a complete review! Kudos! 1 thing left to investigate. Reddit users had the back buttons mechanism snap on them telling its a cheap plastic mechanism. You said it seems ruboost. Can you confirm thia please?
It seems well constructed, as you can see the metal parts that keep it in place but again some players are too rough... We can only say for sure after a while
My biggest question is how well the KK3 plays with Steam's configurator? Can you interdependently map the gyro and paddles, or do you have to use the controller's more limited built in mapping?
Nice review. I just cancelled the one I put on backorder b/c I have a few concerns that your video showed. This is for a primary Switch player. 1. The interior trigger stops plastic mechanism looks flimsy and it looks difficult if not impossible to replace if it breaks. I have no problem working on a controller but that doesn't look like it's going to be meant to be replaceable. I'll wait and see. If they offer a replacement part it looks like it would be a breeze to replace. Just depends if they offer a part or not. 2. The trigger stops still have so much travel for what is supposed to be a digital press. I don't get that. They went out of their way to make another mode for the trigger which is welcome, but didn't go all in with it. Then there's the matter of reviewers mentioning that the triggers have two different travel distances between them which I'd like to see worked out too. 3. That button tear-down was alarming. Makes a lot of their other marketing extremely hard to trust. I'm sure there's some way where it can be technically spun as "mechanical", but they should've just leaned into some kind of sugar text for what they actually went with. It looks like the only reason there's an intermediate piece is to facilitate changing of buttons that are different heights for Xbox/Nintendo layout which has nothing to do with the button press action to begin with. I did like a lot of the KK2 despite its issues and I'm not totally out on this controller but I will wait and see since I don't need a controller right now. I'm waiting to see if 8bitdo releases one with trigger stops, or I'll look closer at the Vader pads that get recommended a lot.
1 the plastic don't bend too much and its pretty thick, I'm more worried about the trigger pivot 2 indeed there's too much travel for a digital button that it almost makes no difference from hall effect as they too activate in the middle of the travel 3 yeah I don't know why they did this
The hall effect trigger travel distance when in analog mode is an absolute joke. You have to push almost half the way for it to start registering input. Defeats the point of using hall effect triggers in the first place. In racing games that controller would legit becomes a liability. In digital mode, that travel is still considered huge. I don't get it, what's the point of doing all those complex mechanism if the damn "digital trigger mode" still acts like an analog trigger. Thank you for the review. Glad you called them out on their misleading ads. The official website is still advertising it by the way, despite whatever shit they tell in the comment section.
The mechanical maketing is only in english version. Because I look at chinese version there is no mention of mechanical at all. all it said is 2nd gen button and make it feel better.
Great review and teardown. I am not too concerned about the big lie 😅 fake mechanical buttons. Time will tell to see how the buttons perform and last. Worse case can always swap the buttons out with the spring loaded ones from KK2 Pro if they are compatible.
Blud just doesnt know the back paddle powa! Use the half domes up top. The bottom stock ones but bend them inwards with pliers and bam comfy heaven! Fyi without the paddles those buttons are HARD to push in..i cant hit them comfortably at all
Why the hell were so many reviewers saying thumbstick weren't removable? You're the only reliable one that proved it still is! Anyways, I'll wait for the cheaper KK3 non-paddle version because I don't want to spend extra for paddles I won't use.
Should we be concerned about the outlier that happens every time? How is it 1ms response time if every time you go to touch the stick from rest there is 5000ms delay?
Same terrible Mickey Mouse plastic case. 🤣 go back to the hard shell zipper KKP2 no issues with paint or usability here. (Daily driver also) My A & B buttons get stuck a lot also. Thought it was just me.
to solve this is by lubricating the spring and some corners inside the switch, it occurred to me, but mine made a jarring door noise, something like that, I applied a small amount of mineral oil, even though it wasn't recommended, but it solved the sound problem.
What are the options for using this controller's gyro on PC? (outside their built-in firmware right stick emulation thing) You could obviously use it with Bluetooth in Switch mode, but that's a bit annoying if you want it paired to an actual Switch as well~ Anything else? Wired mode? Dongle? (if any of these can be told NOT to use XInput and instead do Switch mode?) I recall 8bitdo did just that (firmware update to their dongle) to allow using Switch mode on PC. Anything we can do here?
@@ahmedmohmed4346vi em um canal um comentário dizendo que mesmo com uma taxa menor, o Vader 3 pro ainda era um pouco mais rápido que o kk3, desculpe, é que não entendo muito sobre controles...
I got this controller specifically to replace a bad xbox controller to play rocket league. I simply cannot use it though, for the plain reason that the ABXY buttons can be hit twice in one press (the soft membrane button pressed down 95-ish % will register, but 100% to 95% to 97% will register 2 inputs! It leads to ball cam being toggled off and then immediately back on, causes double jumps and poor flip timings, all these extremely minute details that KILL your flow in a game as mechanical as rocket league. I was hoping to disassemble and tweak this button myself but i just dont have the knowledge on how i could even jerry rig a fix like it. Another note, i have 7k hours on xbox 360 and 1 controllers in rocket league. There is a lot of muscle memory there and rocket league is a very VERY technical game. I'm sure most this controller would be great. The build quality is unfathomably good for such a low price with so many features. But for my very specific circumstance, I am better off with the xbox controller
Super detailed video, great work! Could you help answer if the back buttons are detected as unique buttons in REWASD? Unfortunately many third party gamepad don't actually show up as buttons. I've searched many review videos, none of them provide this info
Haven’t had a problem with the KKP2 which I had since around its release and now that I have the KK3M, 4 weeks in and still loving it. Meh ppl can whine about the fake ad, as someone said, this ad wasn’t in the Chinese version so I guess someone f’d up when making it in English. Funny I bought the replacement mechanical button parts for the KKP2 in case of the buttons getting stuck or whatever but still in their package. So far I don’t have any gripes with it. I guess not being able to change the lighting to my own personal favorite color(s). But overall, great controller so far.
@vk’schannel I’m seriously considering the KK3 Max, but have just watched your best controller of 2023 review and now torn as the G5 pro, both the latest flydigi’s, the bigbigone offerings and even the binbok ultra pro all look good. So, right now in Feb 24, which would be your top pick controller for the switch, one were stick drift won’t become an issue and has gyroscope features. Thanks
After saying that having no app is a con, I feel that is putting a bad message on people. An app is only as good as the controller functionality itself. Gulikit put all of it's functionality into the controller which in my opinion is better than any app. It means we won't have to depend on the app changing and breaking functionality unlike the patch files that Gulikit makes for their controllers (which can still break a controller if they are ballsy enough to send a patch to break a controller). Sure there are some problems like Gulikit not being transparent on how their gen 2 switches are better and some other stuff, but it being self serving without needing an app is a positive.
Apps these days can do so much more Like mapping keyboard buttons and editing the curves and deadzones for the analog sticks Check the competitors and you'll see why not having an app is a con
Having an app often leads to unavailability to use features on all platforms, also installing sketchy drivers on your computer without sandboxing looks like a security nightmare. I hope if they were to do this in the future, it would be something like ZMK/QMK or WebUSB.
21:45 the plastic trigger on my KK2 is already broken 😢, the spring on the trigger was always squeaky . Idk If i'm going to buy another one from their brand.
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Sorry,guys, the reason for this is that first batch of KK3 MAX used the same spring mechanical buttons as KingKong 2 PRO,but later changed to use rubber membrane buttons. Its button description was updated accordingly but not that in time,and still caused confusion. Sorry.
I Pinned your comment on the top so that everyone can see
Thanks for being honest Gulikit! 😊
Any plans on making a controller with the stick placement of a playstation one?
Thanks bro@@VKsChannel
Fake advertisement ....refund..all first batch...of kk3 max with spring mech buttons...
Only 5 days ago... Dayum... So is it already out yet, the better one ? So no 2nd gen mechanical button ?
You sir may be the reason they removed "Second generation mechanical buttons" image from their official Aliexpress store. Good job uncovering their lies! Respect.
But the images and descriptions still there on their main page. Lies continues.....
Sorry,guys, the reason for this is that first batch of KK3 MAX used the same spring mechanical buttons as KingKong 2 PRO,but later changed to use rubber membrane buttons.Its button description was updated accordingly but not that in time,and still caused confusion. Sorry.
@@GuliKitThanks for the info. I'll buy it
@@GuliKit man must give you a thumb up for the reply and clarification though, for switch and pc i am using gulitkit kingkong 2 pro, i like the plastic case, hall effect stick dont have to worry too much about joycon drift, the complains from me is no way to tell the battery life when connecting to pc, and also the A B X Y buttons, if i press it from an angle, sometimes will make squeeky noise, but luckily is still not too distracting for me as it is not too loud (but you can pick it up), and also i used to mechanical keyboard sound when gaming
@@GuliKitwhat models have the spring still?
Using Gulikit Kingkong 2 Pro for a few months and it's been great. So far, it's the best controller, great autopilot & macro. Glad to hear they release a new version but if the selling point for the newest version are the paddles, then I'll have to skip to try it out because I find it uncomfortable using extra buttons below the controller. Just like the Gamesir T4 Pro.
And here's the reason why I recommend you guys to use Gulikit:
- Hall Effect Analog/Joystick & Triggers button
- SPARE PARTS! yes, you don't have to buy a new one if your Gulikit buttons somehow broken, just buy the spares.
KK3 having rubber membrane buttons is a good thing for me. I prefer that. They shouldn't use deceptive advertising however, that part is wrong.
They didn't use rubber membrane, that is what this video is about. They advertised that they do use it.
@@maegnificant no they advertise mechanical and used membrane 20:50, for me i detest rubber membrane specially on the d-pad, cant count how many xbox controller i had to pretty much throw because the damn thing breaks, have a series controller right now for a year and the X botton already feels degraded compared to the other 3.
@@juliox9invest in anger management if you're throwing controllers out of baby rage
@@rebcommando587 pretty much game I play that want you to push it like a maniac like hack and slash tipe
Agreed, hate the clicking sound from mechanicals 😖. If the rubber worn out you can easily replace it
A lot of people are talking about buttons on the old controller. As somebody who has owned 3 KK2 and 1 KK3, let me tell you what happened and why you shouldnt worry on the KK3.
In the KK2 controllers, the buttons were made by producing hundreds on a plastic sheet then punching them out of the mould, like a brand new model/toy figure if youve ever played with/built one. The process left jagged edges on some of the buttons and these sometimes stuck. Removing the buttons and picking off the extra plastic would fix this, the controller was fine. Unfortunately th KK2 didnt come with the button removal tool.
The KK3 has much better button quality control. It also comes with the button removal tool, and 4 spare buttons. The button assembly underneath is beautiful easy to clean once removed as well if you are a cheesy doritio finger gamer.
I have spent hundreds of dollars on microsofts controllers that last half a year. Ive given gulikit 200 dollars on the KK2, and the 1 KK3 I bought was instantly the best controller ive ever had. It is legitimately one of the best pieces of technology ive ever held.
Note:
The correct term for those kind of buttons are "rubber domes", not "rubber membrane".
Rubber domes can be quite cool actually. I got two BTC keyboards, and both are quite old, yet are reliable, or at least after I cleaned the PCBs and the conductive sides of the rubber dome mats. These are also some of the rare examples of rubber dome keyboards that are entirely membrane free, and the switches are quite similar to what controllers have (conductive rubber dome over PCB).
The reason why many of them got the "membrane" name is people misapplied the sensing mechanism's name to the actuator one. The membranes themselves are consisting of two conductive pieces with traces and a third one with holes punched on it as a separator. There's also quite a few keyboards that have membranes but not rubber domes, the most famous being the Model M/IBM Buckling Spring, another good one is the Acer switch, certain Mitsumi keyboards used shorting prongs with external rubber bells or springs as a return force (which negated the use of multiple membranes at the cost of having to add jumper wires to the now singular membrane), but spring over membrane switches usually are way worse than your average rubber dome over membrane keyboard.
Just a slight correction - the trigger button does NOT sound like a microswitch at all. It sounds like a tactile switch. The difference is that tactile switches are much smaller, while microswitches are the kind of switch you would find in a mouse.
Real microswitches have significant advantages:
1. Overtravel - the switch can keep travelling after it has been actuated.
2. Lifetime - while tact switches are rated for 10K-50K actuations, microswitches are rated in the millions of clicks.
They can be easily told apart without taking the device apart by the sound - tact switches are much quieter and lower pitched.
I do not know if Gulikit lead you on or you came up with "microswitch' on your own, but please do not get the two mixed up - this poisons the language and fills the internet with garbage information.
Wow! Pat yourself on the back. You are a controller expert beyond that I've ever heard of.
I’d just like to interject for a moment. What you’re refering to as Linux, is in fact, GNU/Linux, or as I’ve recently taken to calling it, GNU plus Linux. Linux is not an operating system unto itself, but rather another free component of a fully functioning GNU system made useful by the GNU corelibs, shell utilities and vital system components comprising a full OS as defined by POSIX.
Many computer users run a modified version of the GNU system every day, without realizing it. Through a peculiar turn of events, the version of GNU which is widely used today is often called Linux, and many of its users are not aware that it is basically the GNU system, developed by the GNU Project.
There really is a Linux, and these people are using it, but it is just a part of the system they use. Linux is the kernel: the program in the system that allocates the machine’s resources to the other programs that you run. The kernel is an essential part of an operating system, but useless by itself; it can only function in the context of a complete operating system. Linux is normally used in combination with the GNU operating system: the whole system is basically GNU with Linux added, or GNU/Linux. All the so-called Linux distributions are really distributions of GNU/Linux!
My gen1 buttons used to do the "sticky button" thing. I took it apart and made sure all the plastic was aligned. also lubed it like I would lube mechanical keyboard switchs and they are the best feeling controller buttons I've ever used.
I can see this being a minor improvement. wish they would make the trigger hinges out of metal. I can see that breaking after one bad drop.
Honestly, the button membranes are a _huge_ improvement. I tried _three_ different KK2 Pros, and _all_ of them developed "sticky" buttons, which required disassembly and greasing all the switches interiors/springs with lube (I used vaseline); an _extremely_ tedious/annoying process that I don't think anyone who purchased them should ever have to do. I might actually have to pick up the KK3 to see how it performs, because aside from that issue those controllers felt so amazing! Once you go hall-effect, you will never want go back.
Is it possible to replace the buttons from KK2?
Goes to show how subjective the paddle experience is, your no paddle recommendation is wild to me haha, I much prefer it with paddles.
I thought the same thing, why buy a controller with paddles to not bother with them, just buy a none paddle controller. Weirdo.
@@johnhughes4705because even not putting in the paddles, you still have four extra button locations.
@@Panic_Pickle Sorry what?
@@fwabble even without attaching the paddle, those four back slots are still functional as normal back buttons
cant thanks enough for this chanel, u helped a lot of people. keep doing ur great work sir!!
Great review. I was so hyped for this controller. I thought it looked gorgeous and was exited about the rear buttons and trigger stops. I'm kinda disappointed by the way the trigger stops have been implemented, also the buttons are a step down compared to the kk2 pro... Kinda sad.
Dude, you rock! I was about to pull the trigger on one of these and I was watching reviews to make sure it was what I wanted. I think I'm going to wait for the Vader 4 or get the Vader 3 pro on sale. Thank you so much for exposing their false marketing and helping consumers make the best choice.
I really like my kk3 so far. I disassembled it to see how it differed internally from an Xbox controller, and I was surprised at how it was so easy to repair compared to first-party controllers. Philips head screws, no easy to break plastic covers, mosfet connectors and ribbon cables instead of soldered wires, an easily replacable battery, etc.
I did manage to lose one of the bumper springs, and after consigning it to the void, I realised I liked it more without, so I removed the other one. It's easier to press and makes a nice clicky sound. Time will tell how well it holds up, I suppose. I know I'm never finding that spring again, and I'm not going to just return it, lol.
Interesting to hear about the trigger spring. I didn’t like how much force I need to apply even with the trigger stop enabled, so I guess Ill try without the spring too!
@maouvin_ Bumper spring, not the trigger spring. If you remove the trigger mainspring, I don't think it will work. It appeared to be molded in and is mechanically necessary for the trigger to return to reset.
The bumper springs are tiny and located in the L1-R1 top shoulder buttons. They attach to the outside of the trigger mainspring housing and the inside of the bumper. They resemble the springs you find in a ballpoint pen but smaller, and they aren't molded into the mechanism, which is how I lost one. They appear to serve as sound dampeners since the bumpers function just fine without them (albeit louder).
Great Review! I also noticed you can press the back buttons without the paddles.
And omg ... it happend to you aswell, I also had my button stuck... I scratched to controller and the button while getting it out with tweezers :/ and I got terrible input lag with the dongle . . .
I will watch the full video when I'm home. Liked!!
I made the exact same mistake 😩 Did you get it out with the tweezers, or did you disassemble the controller? I tried both, but the tweezers can't get grip on the button, and the screws inside the controller seem too tight for me to get out!
@@windchime9720 I had really thing tweezers.. I used just 1 side of the tweezers to get in the Side of the button and then I tried to push it up. Like lever it up.
sadly I scratches the controller in the process -_-
Or try a toothpick, something thin to shove it in the side
@@OraOraOra UPDATE: I got it out by sticking the button with sticky tack and pulling it out!! :D Hope it works for anybody else with the same problem.
Lies, Deception 19:50
Dang 20 mins till he tells what it was.
does anyone know the song that he uses in this segment?
Running Away by John Charles Fiddy, instantly reminded me of Chavo del Ocho lol
@@rodrovelasquez1634 Lucio Sergio Catilina - Cannibale
A rubber membrane in a replaceable module styled like an MX switch is actually a pretty cool idea.
I really hated the face buttons on kk2 pro, ended up selling my controller because of that. but if the new once, even if lying, are better, I might get this, because I'm also not fully satisfied with my 8bitdo ultimate.
It's a good controller but the triggers creek sometimes and don't feel as smooth. Also when playing racing games I have to press the throttle half way to get any input.
may i know how is the gyro in 8bitdo ultimate..can we use gyro when using adapter 2.4
can 8bitdo connect to pc as a switch pro controller using 2.4 adapter
@@g33k_Tech I don't think we can, unless you pair it as switch pro gamepad via Bluetooth but then there are no analog triggers.
@@g33k_Tech yes you can. Put your controller in switch mode, pair with the adapter v2, then switch the adapter to switch mode as well (I think youn need to hold BACK and left d-pad). Then Windows will recognize your controller as a switch controller, with support for motion in Steam/Yuzu and everything.
I actually use 8BitDo v2 adapter for my Gulikit KK2 this way as well and it works like a charm.
I got my button stuck as well, but I got it out by gripping it with the metal thing included in the box, then slowly tilting/jiggling the button until it became loose enough to lift out the socket.
Other than that, my controller is working pretty flawless, but the paddles are kinda bad. They stick out too far, if they both were to sit closer to the controller, it would be perfect.
Bro I need your help its not coming out 😭
@@MxsteryninjaTake the controller apart very carefully and get it out that way that's how you fix stuck buttons on the 1st party controllers
I always had something bugging me about Gulikit, their innovation was great, but I never thought I needed their controllers, so I bought the Gamesir T4 Kaleid, which has the "same" features, but it's transparent, so you can see all the hardware, they got nothing to hide, meanwhile Gulikit is selling everyone membrane buttons and telling they are mechanical switches. I've never bought a Gulikit controller and I'll never will, great video, you earned my sub!
The t4k is better, they just had an firmware update a couple of weeks ago aka the 0.2.3 which improved the joysticks raw mode which helps the non raw mode
Been using a T4K for almost 9 months now, no complaints outside of some initial issues with the software, has been perfect the entire time.
Great review! Also, I own the KK2 and you're the only one who opened up its problems (sticky buttons and paint stripping off the triggers/bumpers). Most if not all reviewers just commend how "perfect" it is.
The metallic paint stripping was an obvious design flaw, metallic paint on plastic doesn't ever hold up well on parts seeing constant handling. Mine did that already but so far the buttons are holding up I'm not much for the looks so its a minor issue to me but I can see people getting deeply annoyed by this. That said I can't go back to potentiometer based analog sticks. Having zero deadzone and smooth sensitivity response is the one things that got me hooked on from the moment I got mine.
@@alexisrivera200xable you're definitely right! I have no complaints about how the triggers and the analog sticks feel. Functionality wise, the controller is great.
LOL, i considered this controller to replace my Apex 2 which got 1 double click face button after 2 years of usage. Glad i went with Vader 3 pro instead since i extremely love the face buttons on Apex 2. Flydigi mecha buttons are the best rn, no contest.
Yeah
Flydigi have those clicky buttons with really nice spring. It's probably something proprietary because mecha buttons on other controllers doesn't have this springiness.
I just bought the purple color King King 3 Max 😊. Can't really complain too much compared with the high price of the Xbox Elite Controller 2
Thanks for the review mate,it's honest & most detail review for this KK3 i've seen before i (almost) buy this KK3 with fake marketing 😂
I love your honesty, this is the best channel for controllers, also if you want to see durability of kk2 controller i recommend the channel Kaiser do stuff
Thank you for this extremely thorough breakdown. I think I'm going to buy one simply because of how novel it's feature set is.
this one looks literally perfect, love the design!
I got the original and it didn't last long. Had to modify the button holes and stretched the button springs a little so that they didn't get stuck. Then the magnetic triggers startet to lose calibration frequently. I got an 8Bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth Controller which is been great so far.
with your honesty, I'm sure you can go far. You will millions of subscribers!!
Mine has deadzones right out of the box, I thought that's normal until I saw this video and other reviews. Thanks Gulikit for making me switch back to 8bitdo 👌
I am so disappointed in the dishonesty of gulikit. amazing job as always!! You are really the best at what you do!!
First of all, thanks for the great review.
Secondly, in my opinion this is a strange step to the side, but not to forward.
This gamepad has a lot of strange solutions and is not worth his price.
I’m waiting for my Apex 4. It will come to me around 10 Feb. Interesting to compare them. After i will sell Gulikit KK3 Max.
I got the vader 3 pro shortly before the kk3 maxs release, and after seeing reviews it seems like I bought the superior controller.
@MadWinter889 not surprised. Guilkit controllers aren't really great. Well, at least the analog and dpad aren't
I sent mail to the company about their" mechanical buttons," and here is their reply. " Hi friend, It's a machine inside, but the springs are replaced with conductive glue."
Nice review. I actually got it just past July 4, looking for a good controller for my switch. It is out of my budget but still bought it. Tested it for a few times but haven't on real gaming yet.
Thanks to this video, I finally understand the sensitivity of the right Analog joystick, I thought mine has a problem on MH Rise:Sunbreak.
Still, even if it isn't real mechanical, it would take years for me to worn it out. My main worry is thr battery. Thumbs up to you, mate. Subbed.
I believe that the "mechanical button" is just the tactile sensation that can also be felt in addition to springs, switches are different, generally coupled to the board which is not big enough for a control, so the membrane would come in the middle to make the command and the tactile sensation due to some other adjustment. My opinion on how I believe it would work, and it was also a small mistake on Gulikit's part not to have 100% of "dignity" in the word.
I bought 2 Vader 3 Pro's based on multiple YT reviews. I need 4 controllers total and was waiting for this review. Looks like I'm buying 2 more V3P's.
What's the polling rate? I'm looking for at least a 250ms polling rate.
the pivots will absolutely break, my previous Kingkong broke exactly in the triggers, thanks for showing them.
Great review. The trigger pivots are the most concerning flaw imo, as I'm not sure how replaceable they are.
Everything else is as close to perfect as I could've wanted. Definitely my next controller.
Those vibration motor look like copies of the dualsense motors. They use voice coils for a up, down movement instead of spinning weights like older controllers. Voice coil motors are what speakers use, they just don't have cones because they aren't meant for sound reproduction. Just for more controlled and accurate vibrations.
Subscribed! Thanks for making an in-depth review of this controller. Even though I'm quite disappointed with the fake advertisement, I think I am still gonna buy this one because I like the upgrade from the KK2.
Btw.. may I know the game you are playing at the ending? It looks like a Castlevania game but I cannot find a castlevania game on switch with that UI.
The title seemed sorta clickbaity to me at first for some reason but after finishing the video it actually seem quite accurate. This both does seem like a great controller and there was a lie (apparently).
I love the amount of detail you went into with this, from the on-screen pros and cons near the end to the recording of the button sounds. I wish you had done a bit more testing of the dpad diagonals. You did mention that it was easy to do diagonals, but sometimes there's an issue of unintended diagonals also. I think some people do a test with Street Fighter or similar to make sure they can do quarter circles precisely, and then they use Contra to make sure the diagonals aren't too sensitive.
I have the KK2 and I don't think I have any other controllers with similar macro functionality, so I didn't realize how far ahead they were here. I laughed out loud when you showed that other controller going full tilt on the analog recording playback.
A section highlighting just the changes from the KK2 (since I think it was a fairly popular controller being around when the Hall Effect stick craze was really taking off) would've been nice. I can tell some stuff just from watching the review, but it's a lot of info to take in and think about. The lights look new, the paddles are of course new, the buttons are slightly different as you went over. I like the changes they made to the case to let you charge it in there.
I don't agree with lack of an app being a con, the last thing I need is another piece of proprietary software just to use* my controller. If there were some sort of open standard I would probably feel differently, though. I like what GP2040-CE gives us for DIY arcade controllers, and what QMK gives us for mechanical keyboards. IIRC you can actually save your macros to a file and share them with people on the KK2, so maybe some sort of retroactive software tweaking would be possible depending on how much of the controller can be exposed when plugged in.
* Yes, the controller would probably still work fine without it, but I was annoyed at having to get an app for my 8bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth controller to map the back buttons, and I'm glad you can do so much on the Gulikit without external software.
At a glance the KK3 appears to combine the best parts of the KK2 and 8bitdo's Ultimate Bluetooth controller (I own both). If I had waited a bit longer to get one of these I probably would've gotten just the KK3 and been satisfied. I like what Gulikit is doing and I would like to see them put out a controller in the PlayStation style with symmetrical sticks at some point. I'd also like to see them make more modules you can mod into existing controllers like they did with the Joy-Cons and the Steam Deck.
Instant Sub after 20:45
I use this controller everyday, since it arrived. The trigger are too heavy for me, so I shorten the trigger spring. love the controller.
I'll wait for the KK4 Max. Thanks for the review !
from my experience, the KK2 buttons issue with getting stuck can be addressed by swapping the components between the switches or turning the stem 180 degrees. one of my buttons stuck, i turned the stem around 180 degrees and it happened to click well. I'm guessing it would be issues with tolerances. a slight overlap.
I have the KK2, and my face buttons have never gotten stuck. The buttons being mechanical is a lie, but I wouldn't say they're like other membrane buttons. They're more like a hybrid design because of the spring. Buttons getting stuck seems like a common occurrence, but that may vary between units.
I wish more of these controllers were compatible with XBX and PS4
You can buy an adapter right off their website
How'd you compare this to the Vader 3 Pro?
Thank u so much for testing the joysticks. The kk2 pro lied about their deadzones. They had deadzones with the kk2 pro. Im glad the kk3 pro doesnt have any at all.
On king kong 2 pro you need to enable the 0 deadzone mode I think watch my review on it, its linked at the end of this video
thank you for the sound test, i care about bumpers being clicky. cant beat the feeling of spamming rb to get the estus heal :D
Controllers interior construction seems more sophisticated than all the first party controllers ive looked at for sure more advanced than the Xbox One/Series or PS4 controllers. Havent messed with a PS5 one yet
The ps5 controller is crazy
By far the hardest of the 3 brands to disassemble
I hope they release proper mechanical buttons as an upgrade kit in the future. And metal trigger assemblies!
Finally a complete review! Kudos!
1 thing left to investigate. Reddit users had the back buttons mechanism snap on them telling its a cheap plastic mechanism. You said it seems ruboost. Can you confirm thia please?
It seems well constructed, as you can see the metal parts that keep it in place but again some players are too rough...
We can only say for sure after a while
Can the kk2 pro mech buttons be used on kk3 max? there may be tolerances in the plastic shells which is why i'm asking you to try it, please and ty
Thanks for the vids. what do you use to test the controllers? I want to see my current drift of the old vs new controller
Gamepad tester website
My biggest question is how well the KK3 plays with Steam's configurator? Can you interdependently map the gyro and paddles, or do you have to use the controller's more limited built in mapping?
very good review, have you tried swapping the mechanical buttons from KK2 to KK3? Or is compatible?
a good review as always
Nice review. I just cancelled the one I put on backorder b/c I have a few concerns that your video showed. This is for a primary Switch player.
1. The interior trigger stops plastic mechanism looks flimsy and it looks difficult if not impossible to replace if it breaks. I have no problem working on a controller but that doesn't look like it's going to be meant to be replaceable. I'll wait and see. If they offer a replacement part it looks like it would be a breeze to replace. Just depends if they offer a part or not.
2. The trigger stops still have so much travel for what is supposed to be a digital press. I don't get that. They went out of their way to make another mode for the trigger which is welcome, but didn't go all in with it. Then there's the matter of reviewers mentioning that the triggers have two different travel distances between them which I'd like to see worked out too.
3. That button tear-down was alarming. Makes a lot of their other marketing extremely hard to trust. I'm sure there's some way where it can be technically spun as "mechanical", but they should've just leaned into some kind of sugar text for what they actually went with. It looks like the only reason there's an intermediate piece is to facilitate changing of buttons that are different heights for Xbox/Nintendo layout which has nothing to do with the button press action to begin with.
I did like a lot of the KK2 despite its issues and I'm not totally out on this controller but I will wait and see since I don't need a controller right now. I'm waiting to see if 8bitdo releases one with trigger stops, or I'll look closer at the Vader pads that get recommended a lot.
1 the plastic don't bend too much and its pretty thick, I'm more worried about the trigger pivot
2 indeed there's too much travel for a digital button that it almost makes no difference from hall effect as they too activate in the middle of the travel
3 yeah I don't know why they did this
The hall effect trigger travel distance when in analog mode is an absolute joke. You have to push almost half the way for it to start registering input. Defeats the point of using hall effect triggers in the first place. In racing games that controller would legit becomes a liability. In digital mode, that travel is still considered huge. I don't get it, what's the point of doing all those complex mechanism if the damn "digital trigger mode" still acts like an analog trigger.
Thank you for the review. Glad you called them out on their misleading ads. The official website is still advertising it by the way, despite whatever shit they tell in the comment section.
The mechanical maketing is only in english version. Because I look at chinese version there is no mention of mechanical at all. all it said is 2nd gen button and make it feel better.
A lot of reviewers never tried to remove the thumbstick
Pretty sure they were afraid 😂
This guy save a lot of people 👍 New subscriber here
Excellent review, thank you.
Great review and teardown. I am not too concerned about the big lie 😅 fake mechanical buttons. Time will tell to see how the buttons perform and last. Worse case can always swap the buttons out with the spring loaded ones from KK2 Pro if they are compatible.
Your reviews are great--keep it up!
Great review! What software did you use to test/diagnose the controller? It seems handy for troubleshooting controller issues.
Gamepad tester
Its a website
Blud just doesnt know the back paddle powa! Use the half domes up top. The bottom stock ones but bend them inwards with pliers and bam comfy heaven!
Fyi without the paddles those buttons are HARD to push in..i cant hit them comfortably at all
Why the hell were so many reviewers saying thumbstick weren't removable? You're the only reliable one that proved it still is!
Anyways, I'll wait for the cheaper KK3 non-paddle version because I don't want to spend extra for paddles I won't use.
same but because paddles arent tournament legal
i think i'll just get the apex 4
I'll get that one too but only if the thumb stick quality is at best of the best.
Do they plan to release a non-paddle version? I would prefer that honestly
Vader 3 pro is better I think@@ClareHehe
Should we be concerned about the outlier that happens every time? How is it 1ms response time if every time you go to touch the stick from rest there is 5000ms delay?
Do backpaddles support rapidfire too? Great video btw
great, every time I find a controller I want to buy, something comes along that makes it pointless...
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Same terrible Mickey Mouse plastic case. 🤣 go back to the hard shell zipper
KKP2 no issues with paint or usability here. (Daily driver also)
My A & B buttons get stuck a lot also. Thought it was just me.
to solve this is by lubricating the spring and some corners inside the switch, it occurred to me, but mine made a jarring door noise, something like that, I applied a small amount of mineral oil, even though it wasn't recommended, but it solved the sound problem.
O gato com a música do Chapolim foi fod@. Kkkk
Tive um treco aqui!!!!
Se o BR descobre este video vai estourar o canal do gringo!!!!
@@GuilhermeMittmann
Plot twist: esse canal é BR.
@@williamtael8379 Ah vá, sério?
@@GuilhermeMittmann
Sem zoeira, ele é mesmo. Em outras análises de controle ele até me respondeu e admitiu ser BR.
Thanks for making this video, I had two of these controls in my Amazon cart...Which Switch controllers do you recommend besides the Pro Controller?
any of the flydigi controllers
machenike g5
or mobapad
Improve the trigger pivot with more durable material, fix problem with button swap feature and this controller is perfect.
Excellent review bro. Do you gonna test the Mobapad M6 HD and/or the FlyDigi Apex 4? Thanks
Can you use 2 King Kong controllers with 1 USB receiver on your PC?
To prevent stuckage they should've made the buttons have different shapes on the bottom to make mismatching impossible without breaking it
Curious, what game was shown at the end of the video? Feels like castlevania symphony of the night XD so cool
Deedlit in Wonder Labyrinth.
@@Ochtendgloren1Great, thanks for sharing the game name with me.
Good review btw
What are the options for using this controller's gyro on PC? (outside their built-in firmware right stick emulation thing)
You could obviously use it with Bluetooth in Switch mode, but that's a bit annoying if you want it paired to an actual Switch as well~
Anything else? Wired mode? Dongle? (if any of these can be told NOT to use XInput and instead do Switch mode?)
I recall 8bitdo did just that (firmware update to their dongle) to allow using Switch mode on PC. Anything we can do here?
Most indepth review ive seen so far on the controller. Great video. Are the grips rubber or hard plastic, on the back of the controller?
Plastic
Appreciate the response. Figured. @@VKsChannel
Great video 📸, could you review the flydigi apex 4
Coming soon 👀
Pls check if 1st gen (true)mechanical buttons work with KK3 MAX
great review bro, thanks a lot
Great your review and thanks for your honesty what's the best controller then?
the one I use now is the vader 3 pro
@@VKsChannelthanks for your fast reply I will order it
@@VKsChannelbut I am worried about its polling rate as its just 500HZ & doesn't come with sticks caps
@@ahmedmohmed4346vi em um canal um comentário dizendo que mesmo com uma taxa menor, o Vader 3 pro ainda era um pouco mais rápido que o kk3, desculpe, é que não entendo muito sobre controles...
I got this controller specifically to replace a bad xbox controller to play rocket league. I simply cannot use it though, for the plain reason that the ABXY buttons can be hit twice in one press (the soft membrane button pressed down 95-ish % will register, but 100% to 95% to 97% will register 2 inputs! It leads to ball cam being toggled off and then immediately back on, causes double jumps and poor flip timings, all these extremely minute details that KILL your flow in a game as mechanical as rocket league. I was hoping to disassemble and tweak this button myself but i just dont have the knowledge on how i could even jerry rig a fix like it.
Another note, i have 7k hours on xbox 360 and 1 controllers in rocket league. There is a lot of muscle memory there and rocket league is a very VERY technical game. I'm sure most this controller would be great. The build quality is unfathomably good for such a low price with so many features. But for my very specific circumstance, I am better off with the xbox controller
wow thats great vk's channel, you really great for teardown and share truth information 🥰
Super detailed video, great work! Could you help answer if the back buttons are detected as unique buttons in REWASD? Unfortunately many third party gamepad don't actually show up as buttons. I've searched many review videos, none of them provide this info
I Don't have rewasd installed but I'll try to check
Haven’t had a problem with the KKP2 which I had since around its release and now that I have the KK3M, 4 weeks in and still loving it. Meh ppl can whine about the fake ad, as someone said, this ad wasn’t in the Chinese version so I guess someone f’d up when making it in English. Funny I bought the replacement mechanical button parts for the KKP2 in case of the buttons getting stuck or whatever but still in their package.
So far I don’t have any gripes with it. I guess not being able to change the lighting to my own personal favorite color(s). But overall, great controller so far.
@vk’schannel
I’m seriously considering the KK3 Max, but have just watched your best controller of 2023 review and now torn as the G5 pro, both the latest flydigi’s, the bigbigone offerings and even the binbok ultra pro all look good.
So, right now in Feb 24, which would be your top pick controller for the switch, one were stick drift won’t become an issue and has gyroscope features.
Thanks
My daily driver now is the vader 3 pro with the machenike g5 in second place
To be honest I'm okay if it mech or membrane but not with the false adv
After saying that having no app is a con, I feel that is putting a bad message on people. An app is only as good as the controller functionality itself. Gulikit put all of it's functionality into the controller which in my opinion is better than any app. It means we won't have to depend on the app changing and breaking functionality unlike the patch files that Gulikit makes for their controllers (which can still break a controller if they are ballsy enough to send a patch to break a controller). Sure there are some problems like Gulikit not being transparent on how their gen 2 switches are better and some other stuff, but it being self serving without needing an app is a positive.
Apps these days can do so much more
Like mapping keyboard buttons and editing the curves and deadzones for the analog sticks
Check the competitors and you'll see why not having an app is a con
Having an app often leads to unavailability to use features on all platforms, also installing sketchy drivers on your computer without sandboxing looks like a security nightmare. I hope if they were to do this in the future, it would be something like ZMK/QMK or WebUSB.
@8:08 Holy ASMR Batman! 🤤
Gulikit failed the deception check
is possible to map a keyboard key to a macro on the Gulikit KK3 Max?
21:45 the plastic trigger on my KK2 is already broken 😢, the spring on the trigger was always squeaky . Idk If i'm going to buy another one from their brand.
such a detail review! but can the mechanical buttons from the gulikit kingkong 2 pro replace those fake mechanical buttons?
Probably yes they're the same size