Henry Ford or rather his son definitely made some big changes to the model T in 1926. My great grandfathers 1917 model T will be seen in a future video.
John, I've got to hand it to you for your motivation, knowledge, and work ethic. I also have a Ford 1926 Model T although mine is a 2-door. I've had it for almost a week. It has not been run for more than 5 years and I'm working on cleaning and getting it started. I am so appreciative that I do not have to do a complete restoration. Thanks for the educational video.
Very nice car, you guys have a lot to work with and can just freshen up most of it and replace a few critical things like the plate glass and thrust washer in the rear end. Probably not much wear on the engine. Looks like a fun one to work on!
Good luck with your project. Just finishing a 1931 AA which was a bit rough like yours, just about ready for paint. A good source for parts is Snyders Antique Auto Parts, Good people and fast shipping.
@@deeremeyer1749 If you have no clue about automobile electrics, ask a good professional at your favorite auto parts store. And make sure you tell them what voltage battery you're going to use that cable on.
@@mafcawebmaster423730+ year professional "mechanic". If I buy an application-specific battery cable that its the "right voltage" is a given is it not? And what if I'm working on a 24-volt system? And is it important if its a positive or negative cable? When you double voltage that means amperage is halved but that certainly doesn't mean cable size has to be doubled. Amperage is halved because voltage is electrical "pressure". Amperage is flow. Overall if the LOAD remains constant such as cranking an engine neither cables nor starter care if about voltage. A 12-volt battery with double the "pressure" will do the work with half the current draw. It takes "horsepower" to crank engines. I hp is about 742 watts. Voltage x Amperage is Wattage. So a 1 hp load on a cranking motor ultimately does not care if its supplied by 6 volts and 123 amps or 12 volts and 61 amps. 12 volts to a "6 volt starter" hurts absolutely nothing. But obviously a 6-volt generator cannot charge a 12-volt battery. It was the limitations of 6-volt automotive generators and regulators at about 30 amps at a "full charge" and "modern" electrical accessories like radios that are a big pile of resistors and sealed beam headlamps in sets of 4 as well as park lamps, tail lamps, reverse lamps and brake lamps all on at once occasionally and the necessity for the generator - including AC generators called ALTERNATORS - to carry 100% of vehicle system electrical loads at all times WHILE recharging STORAGE BATTERIES after "startup" and WHILE making sure there is an absolute MINIMUM of 12.6 volts at EVERY load regardless of how many connectors and how much conductor current has to flow through to get there that was responsible for the "switch" to 12V systems. And 24-volt "split load" systems where 24 volts are used for cranking but two 12V batteries in "parallel" are charged by a single 12V alternator "in series". There isn't a chance in hell Henry used battery cables a single bit "bigger" than absolutely necessary and there isn't a chance in hell any modern high-quality "12 volt" cable with crimp on post terminals and that LENGTH will lack the "poop" to crank a POS 110 cubic inch 4.5:1 compression Model T engine with a "trembler coil" ignition. Nor is ANY competent "parts guy" going to ask about "cable voltage" if YOU know jack shit about electrical systems PERIOD and know what conductor size is required to have enough "poop" for a cranking motor based upon cable length and cranking motor "horsepower" requirement and you need a "custom" battery cable "built". Nor are there ever any generic "prefabricated" cables available at an auto parts store that is worth a shit unless they're for lawnmowers or motorcycles and for DAMNED SURE if there needed to be a "poop difference" in between "6 volt cables" and "12 volt cables" the battery "posts" and the starter solenoid "studs" wouldn't be "standardized" across 6V and 12V batteries and cranking motors. You dumbass.
With any restoration, you've got to do something everyday. Stay focused and keep pluggin away. Good luck! Great automobile worth saving. If I make a suggestion, don't take the whole car apart at once. It's like eating an elephant, one bite at a time. Start with the chassis. Get it running, then work on the body.
@@JohnsClunkerCars doubt it im all most 77 and can no longer do that stuff due to health bring yer trailer and promise to finish it and its yers got a clear kansas title
suggestion: as you're videoing, try to move the camera more slowly so it's not so "jumpy" - almost made me sea-sick as you moved from place to place. Love what you're doing. thumbs up!
So well taken care of in the past. You bet. It's damn near mint. You only have to "invest" maybe $10,000 in a good "parts car" to "donate" everything that "car" is missing and the whole catalog of repop '26 T restoration parts and "supplies" and 1500 hours of labor in "restoring" it and you'll have no trouble whatsoever getting $5,000 for it.
You didn't mention any wood rot in the body and the doors seem to close nicely. Judging from the roof bows it all looks like it stayed out of the weather for the most part. +1 on not swinging the camera so quickly. These things come naturally after reviewing a few hours of your own footage.
That "project car" you probably "invested" $2000 in minimum is only $20,000 and 2000 "DIY" hours from being "valued" at upwards of $10,000 "running and driving" and "cosmetically-restored".
![Barn Find / 1920 Ford Model T / Will it run? [EP42] @KlepsGarage](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9Kx-CW2fad4/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m working on a 1923 Model T on my channel. It’s interesting to see the differences
Henry Ford or rather his son definitely made some big changes to the model T in 1926. My great grandfathers 1917 model T will be seen in a future video.
John, I've got to hand it to you for your motivation, knowledge, and work ethic. I also have a Ford 1926 Model T although mine is a 2-door. I've had it for almost a week. It has not been run for more than 5 years and I'm working on cleaning and getting it started. I am so appreciative that I do not have to do a complete restoration. Thanks for the educational video.
This is so cool!
Very nice car, you guys have a lot to work with and can just freshen up most of it and replace a few critical things like the plate glass and thrust washer in the rear end. Probably not much wear on the engine. Looks like a fun one to work on!
"Freshen up"? ROFLMAO.
Very Nice Job On Your Video !!!
I would like to see the wood blocks.
Good luck with your project. Just finishing a 1931 AA which was a bit rough like yours, just about ready for paint. A good source for parts is Snyders Antique Auto Parts, Good people and fast shipping.
Thanks for watching!
Why are almost all these comments so aggressive? Lol chill. *Constructive* and *kind* criticism. Awesome video btw :)
When you get a new battery cable, make sure it's for a 6 volt car. A 12 volt cable won't provide enough "poop" to turn over the engine.
WTF are you talking about?
@@deeremeyer1749 If you have no clue about automobile electrics, ask a good professional at your favorite auto parts store. And make sure you tell them what voltage battery you're going to use that cable on.
@@mafcawebmaster423730+ year professional "mechanic". If I buy an application-specific battery cable that its the "right voltage" is a given is it not? And what if I'm working on a 24-volt system?
And is it important if its a positive or negative cable?
When you double voltage that means amperage is halved but that certainly doesn't mean cable size has to be doubled. Amperage is halved because voltage is electrical "pressure". Amperage is flow. Overall if the LOAD remains constant such as cranking an engine neither cables nor starter care if about voltage. A 12-volt battery with double the "pressure" will do the work with half the current draw. It takes "horsepower" to crank engines. I hp is about 742 watts. Voltage x Amperage is Wattage.
So a 1 hp load on a cranking motor ultimately does not care if its supplied by 6 volts and 123 amps or 12 volts and 61 amps. 12 volts to a "6 volt starter" hurts absolutely nothing. But obviously a 6-volt generator cannot charge a 12-volt battery.
It was the limitations of 6-volt automotive generators and regulators at about 30 amps at a "full charge" and "modern" electrical accessories like radios that are a big pile of resistors and sealed beam headlamps in sets of 4 as well as park lamps, tail lamps, reverse lamps and brake lamps all on at once occasionally and the necessity for the generator - including AC generators called ALTERNATORS - to carry 100% of vehicle system electrical loads at all times WHILE recharging STORAGE BATTERIES after "startup" and WHILE making sure there is an absolute MINIMUM of 12.6 volts at EVERY load regardless of how many connectors and how much conductor current has to flow through to get there that was responsible for the "switch" to 12V systems. And 24-volt "split load" systems where 24 volts are used for cranking but two 12V batteries in "parallel" are charged by a single 12V alternator "in series".
There isn't a chance in hell Henry used battery cables a single bit "bigger" than absolutely necessary and there isn't a chance in hell any modern high-quality "12 volt" cable with crimp on post terminals and that LENGTH will lack the "poop" to crank a POS 110 cubic inch 4.5:1 compression Model T engine with a "trembler coil" ignition.
Nor is ANY competent "parts guy" going to ask about "cable voltage" if YOU know jack shit about electrical systems PERIOD and know what conductor size is required to have enough "poop" for a cranking motor based upon cable length and cranking motor "horsepower" requirement and you need a "custom" battery cable "built".
Nor are there ever any generic "prefabricated" cables available at an auto parts store that is worth a shit unless they're for lawnmowers or motorcycles and for DAMNED SURE if there needed to be a "poop difference" in between "6 volt cables" and "12 volt cables" the battery "posts" and the starter solenoid "studs" wouldn't be "standardized" across 6V and 12V batteries and cranking motors.
You dumbass.
had a 27 the chassis engine mint retored body was almost done i went home one weekend and my brother had sold it for a 1000.00 i was just sick
why?
With any restoration, you've got to do something everyday. Stay focused and keep pluggin away. Good luck! Great automobile worth saving. If I make a suggestion, don't take the whole car apart at once. It's like eating an elephant, one bite at a time. Start with the chassis. Get it running, then work on the body.
ive got a 1924 buried away in a gruge u can just see the headlites just wish i had time to get it driveable never will though
Hopefully you will have time to get to it one day!
@@JohnsClunkerCars doubt it im all most 77 and can no longer do that stuff due to health bring yer trailer and promise to finish it and its yers got a clear kansas title
T's were all black to keep things in the assembly line uniform until the A's came out and tripled production
This Model T will be painted black.
The 1926-27 model t’s came in a couple more colours
suggestion: as you're videoing, try to move the camera more slowly so it's not so "jumpy" - almost made me sea-sick as you moved from place to place. Love what you're doing. thumbs up!
Thank you for the friendly suggestion. I just purchased a tripod for my camera a couple days ago.
So well taken care of in the past. You bet. It's damn near mint. You only have to "invest" maybe $10,000 in a good "parts car" to "donate" everything that "car" is missing and the whole catalog of repop '26 T restoration parts and "supplies" and 1500 hours of labor in "restoring" it and you'll have no trouble whatsoever getting $5,000 for it.
You didn't mention any wood rot in the body and the doors seem to close nicely. Judging from the roof bows it all looks like it stayed out of the weather for the most part. +1 on not swinging the camera so quickly. These things come naturally after reviewing a few hours of your own footage.
I have a running 1925 motor and chassis for sale if you need it, or anyone else.
Supposed to be working and recording not doing the work and showing what you did,we like to go along and learn as you work
That "project car" you probably "invested" $2000 in minimum is only $20,000 and 2000 "DIY" hours from being "valued" at upwards of $10,000 "running and driving" and "cosmetically-restored".
Don’t wave the camera so much. It makes me dizzy. Stationary camera would be better.