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I’m glad to see someone else painting parts with a brush. My 6 and 10 year old are working on a 1925 coupe. My 6 year old is our paint department. We are getting ready to go through the ear end.

That thing is junk. No way that front end is still square with that many "crinkles" and "dents" in that much "structure". That car went OVER something HARD. And I mean what it went over was hard. A concrete guardrail or ledge or big pieces of rip-rap or potentially an old-fashioned steel guardrail before they were "energy absorbing". Not that cheap-ass POS Ford "front structure" in those glorified Falcons ever needs much excess energy to be trashed. I didn't think you could find a bigger POS of a "project car" than that "barn find" Model T but I do believe you pulled it off. And where is the T by the way? Not so much a "family project" after all if only two people at a time can go "cruising" in it when "restored"? Or did you find out you can make "parts lists" all damned day for an antique - and already obsolete when new compared to the "competition" - car like that while thinking there MUST be a huge "parts industry" out there for antique cars as "popular" as Model Ts but thinking doesn't make it so? Especially for a 2-door sedan or whatever that pile is? Or is it that "restoration parts" are out there but they're stupid expensive because of how UNPOPULAR Model Ts now are among "restorers" given how "cheap" already restored ones sell for and how absolutely retarded a "restorer" has to be to start with a pile like the "car" you did? An "original" 1926 T on wood-spoke wheels? And missing pretty much the entire "interior" and sheet metal like floor pans? And you thought or implied early on it was "mechanically sound"? Yeah. Right. It was parked for a reason. Or ten. Or a hundred. And "parted out" for somebody else's project car(s). Model T "mechanicals" are common as dirt. In good shape? Not needing "mechanical restoration"? Not so much. Like the "loose kingpin bushings". $1 says there were no bushings left and the knuckles and kingpins were scrap too due to how long that pile was driven with the bushings "dry". And then gone. But yeah. Because it had "original paint" under a piece of door panel "trim" somebody almost certainly "resprayed" with that HIGH GLOSS BLACK Ford never would have been able to "spray" that evenly even if Ford would have "sprayed" rather than DIPPED body parts it HAD to be "rust free" and SO "well taken care of". Before being "gutted" and stripped of all the "hard to find" parts like wheel rims and the seat springs and...pretty much everything else that "car" was missing and was worth stripping off it and out of it. It was an el cheapo economy car with zero options or frills when new just like a buttload of others and the quintessential "$350" Model T in '26 and of course by then the T was doomed and the A was waiting in the wings and although ALSO obsolete compared to the "competition" when brand new at least As were available in colors other than black (Ts were also by "special order" long before '26) and had a "modern" stick-shift manual trans with pedals that did what they did on the "competitions" cars. Sort of. Just because something is old it isn't automatically "valuable" and just because something is "cheap" it isn't automatically a "good deal". In fact that T and this Cougar could be free and you'll still end up "overpaying" compared to what you'd have "invested" in an ACTUAL CAR capable of "running and driving" as-is and where-is at purchase with no "investment" needed beyond gas, fluids and maybe a new battery. If it isn't on 4 tires that "hold air" in this day and age it's already most of $1k from "running and driving" to begin with IF you're really "restoring" it. Start in on "mechanicals" like "suspension and brakes" where "hard parts" must be replaced and it's $100 per axle bare minimum. Bushings? Bearings? Ball joints? Make it $200 easy and a good 2-3 hours per corner minimum for a DIYer. When vehicles are basically "abandoned" there are reasons. And the reasons are basically NEVER "cosmetic".

I 100% guarantee there is absolutely no way whatsoever to be concerned about possibly getting Chevrolet powertrain components or parts mixed up with that Ford spur gear "differential" junk unless you're totally blind and have hook hands.

So well taken care of in the past. You bet. It's damn near mint. You only have to "invest" maybe $10,000 in a good "parts car" to "donate" everything that "car" is missing and the whole catalog of repop '26 T restoration parts and "supplies" and 1500 hours of labor in "restoring" it and you'll have no trouble whatsoever getting $5,000 for it.

I needed to see this for some motivation. I'm riding the struggle bus real hard with my 84 LTD (Fox body) engine....It's out of the car (i got it that way) with the tranny still attached and staring at it doesn't seem to separate the engine and tranny. I'll be doing it on the floor too.

Your car has the mid-level deluxe interior. Not an XR7 but not a base model.

What did I just witness?

Were you trying to stay original? It seems that welding over the oil caps and tapping in a grease zert would be a good upgrade.

Replacing the oil seal on my freshly built rear end. It started leaking in Texas on our #coast2coast4hydrocephalus trip (12 days)

Fellow cougar fan here. Thank you for showing cougar love . Not many folks doing that. If I may offer a few tips. When using the hammer and dolly, choose the dolly closet to the profile you are working on. Most hammers have a curved surface, so you impact at a single point. You just just want to use enough force to move the metal a little bit at a time. When you hit harder you will distort the metal rather than manipulate it. Ive always used a large crescent to straighten the strut rod brackets. Can't wait to see more progress!

I have a running 1925 motor and chassis for sale if you need it, or anyone else.

Good job on the video. I bought a 27 touring a couple days ago and hopefully getting it redone also. My wheels are too rough to use so hoping to find some used ones somewhere.

John, I've got to hand it to you for your motivation, knowledge, and work ethic. I also have a Ford 1926 Model T although mine is a 2-door. I've had it for almost a week. It has not been run for more than 5 years and I'm working on cleaning and getting it started. I am so appreciative that I do not have to do a complete restoration. Thanks for the educational video.

Hang in there

nice, i have a 302 in a 82 f100 that probably is going to look exactly the same inside. mine had water down the carburetor for probably 15 years of sitting. good boat anchor now...

I have a 67 I'll either restore or mod upgrade with a 98 Lincoln mark viii i have as a donor

We don't see any actual work, just progress..

Nice Job ,Keep Them Coming !!!

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Very Nice Job On Your Video !!!

Why are almost all these comments so aggressive? Lol chill. *Constructive* and *kind* criticism. Awesome video btw :)

Great video! Keep posting, we want to see more!

With any restoration, you've got to do something everyday. Stay focused and keep pluggin away. Good luck! Great automobile worth saving. If I make a suggestion, don't take the whole car apart at once. It's like eating an elephant, one bite at a time. Start with the chassis. Get it running, then work on the body.

Thanks , now I will be ready for the mess.

I like your brass hammer that's too funny

Do you have any videos putting the body parts back on the car?

Im rebuilding a 1926 T Roadster. It was apart when I bought and Im having trouble finding anything to show me how it goes together. Im ready to install the body but can't find anything to show the sequence. I'm hoping that you have more videos. So far I found 1 2 and 3.

Look nice

Have you found the Model T to be difficult to work on? I'm not a mechanic and have only basic hand tools, not a machine shop. With a Ford Model T repair manual and the purchase of maybe a few specialized Ford tools, can an average non-professional keep a Model T running and driving well and repaired when necessary (the parts that most often need attention?) I used to rebuild bicycles when I was younger, and am not afraid to get dirty. A correct, well-maintained, unmodified but solid touring car is on my short list of adult "toys" to find one day. Thanks!

Keep up the good work. I enjoyed this video, and look forward to more.

Happy birthday john!!!!!!

Working on a 68 myself... Would it be possible to contact you? How might we exchange contact info not on you tube?

wd-40 those bolts and nuts, let them sit for a couple of days , then use a heating torch to heat them up, break them lose then work them tight , then lose.

The vacume lines are to open the headlight doors

How is the model t going?

Waiting for this baby to be finished so we can we have more of an idea of what we dealing with on ours haha

did they have spray paint back in 1925 ,or did they brush or dip the parts. how did they paint the bodies?

a lot of people think all model T s were the same, not true. My grandma had a 1925 with small windows behind the passenger windows , 4 doors touring model. I think she might have ordered the body thru sears catalog or Montgomery Wards.

My Granma had a 1925 model t touring with the tall cab and the small cabriolet or opera windows. really fancy car back in its day.

great videos. how do you fix the chipped out key way on the end of the axle? and do you use rust oleum gloss black for painting chassis parts?

Nice snag, even the timing chain looked tight. I couldn't see any markings on the pistons. Was it standard bore?

Enjoying your videos, John. Glad to see your "made in USA" brass hammer make an appearance

had a 27 the chassis engine mint retored body was almost done i went home one weekend and my brother had sold it for a 1000.00 i was just sick

Better Box Them Frame Rail's. Make It Safe!

nice shape and good job on your painting and changing 👍 your bushings

back wheels only have one bering and it's on the inside

T's were all black to keep things in the assembly line uniform until the A's came out and tripled production

never realized these old cars were so intricate, many years ago, i restored a 1963 MG Midget, it was much easier than this

Pull that dent in that door. Closes good still