***Important note - I left out the fact that I mirrored (flipped horizontal highlight the image and press H) the inlay in Lightburn. I remember saying it while recording but for some reason it got chopped in the edit. That's what I get for editing late at night!*** As the saying goes "without scrap it's crap"! And I certainly did use a lot of scrap wood getting this processed dialed in! In the end I think it was worth it and I hope this resulting video has been helpful to you. If it has, hit the like button and leave me a comment and let me know what kind of inlays you plan to make!
@@abusam1 Around 2:16 - he copies the fill to do a fill and a line on the same object. Just saying a small simplification is to use the fill+line to save 5 seconds.
Just a thank you for your time and I like the way you explain things its great foe new bees like me leaning diode lasering at 65 is great fun. Again thank you for your time it really helps.
Nice video! Quick tip: Instead of copy- paste- align, you can just press Ctrl-D which will duplicate and select in the exact same spot, then just click the layer you want to put it on. No align needed :)
CNC's are great and can do some great carvings but it takes a very long time.. I know I have a really nice onefinity cnc and do intricate carving can take 5-6+ hours to do. Lasers can do them granted not as deep much faster
Very cool. I will have to try this. Regarding the tape. You could also add the tape to the top after the cut. Also why didn't you just cut out the inlay parts? Seems like a waste of the material.
Glad it was helpful! Since you're new to laser engraving I want to let you know I have a course on getting started that will help speed up your learning! Link in the video description.
What a great video, thank for sharing. I did not see what the optical power of your laser is, i would like to know as i have not purchased my new laser yet.
I made this video over a year ago and at that time I only had a 5 watt laser. I have now owned and used 5, 20, 33, and 40 watt diodes and a 55watt CO2 laser. My advice is to purchase the highest wattage you can afford. You'll be able to run jobs faster and cut through thicker material.
Thanks for that glue down tip! I’m tired of using a ton of magnets to hold it flat to the honeycomb. I’m about to start a channel soon myself making laser and epoxy resin projects. I also create naturalistic aquariums and reptile enclosures. Currently have an Xtool D1 Pro and 20 tanks with all types of fish and reptiles. Just got my pressure pot, computer, and go pro and I’m almost ready to go!
Great tutorial! I want to practice this technique so I can add inlays to a guitar fretboard. Do you know if it matters if I use a sheet or rotary sander? Thanks 👍
I've only done this with a random orbital so I can't say for sure about other methods. Hand sanding should work fine as well it will just take longer. Let me know how it works out for you. I like the idea of using it for a fret board!
Thank you! Carpet tape is a big no for laser engraving because many of those tapes are made with PVC. When PVC is engraved or cut it releases chlorine gas which is extremely toxic. The chlorine will also bond with hydrogen in the air creating hydrogen chloride which is bad for your laser engraver. In short, both your life, and your lasers life, will be greatly shortened if you cut/engrave materials with PVC!
You didn't miss it. I flipped the inlay in lightburn but accidentally left that footage out in the edit. Another viewer spotted it and I updated my pinned comment to say you have to mirror the inlay.
Great video. I was curious for a while why you didn' just set cut layers for the inlay piece until you did the 'zero weed' placement. Your audio is near perfect. How do you do that?
Thank you! Admittedly, the wolf was not the best choice to demonstrate this method as it's still probably quicker to cut this and inlay by hand. In fact, I've had several comments about how this is a waste of time, but on a more complex project this method would be a huge time saver. Glad you think the audio sounds good! It's a lot of work to make it sound the way it does. Everything is recorded on either a lav mic or a condenser mic and then is edited in Adobe Audition to get the levels right and remove noise, echo, etc. I do this for each audio clip I import to ensure appropriate levels and that it sounds right. Then in Premiere I have it set to export at a specific loudness level that TH-cam suggests. The end product is what you hear in my videos!
For the inlay element, the white maple, why didn’t you just use line to cut them, it would have been far shorter to do. I use sheet veneer as you don’t need to burn too deep on the parent material.
I burned off the excess so I can push it right into the pocket in one go. Not really necessary on the wolf but if you were doing a really intricate inlay with lots of tiny pieces it makes it a ton easier.
Thank you for te video, just wondering if the charcoal doesn't ruin the bonding of the inlay to the pocket. As a scale modeller I have been tought to always sand off the charcoal when building a wooden lasercut model.
Good question! The fit is so snug that I probably didn't even need to use glue. Also, since this is a decorative piece and won't be handled often, with the snug fit and the wood glue I used I doubt any of the pieces are ever coming out. If I was making something that would be handled or used frequently I might consider a different method such as v-carving on a CNC.
I am relatively new with LightBurn, since you are using version 1.3 is there a reason you did not combine the fill layer and the line after fill using LightBurn's ability to have multiple actions in the same layer?
Warum nimmst du keine Reflektierende Folie? Sowas wie selbstklebende AluFolie oder Spiegelfolie? Das sorgt dafür, dass der Laser nicht durch geht und klebt die Teile bis zum Anbringen perfekt zusammen?
I forgot to add the link in the description, sorry about that! You can find the maple I used here: amzn.to/40QbtWm The walnut is from my local woodworking supplier.
Hola... Lo primero es felicitarle por este trabajo tan bien ejecutado... Felicidades!!! Me ha impresionado mucho este proyecto y los resultados obtenidos, son geniales... Se ha ganado un Like y un nuevo suscriptor... Gracias por compartir este video... Gracias... Un fuerte abrazo...
You didn't miss it. I flipped the inlay in lightburn but I accidentally left that footage out in the edit. Another viewer spotted it and I updated my pinned comment to say you have to mirror the inlay.
You are absolutely right! I remembering mentioning it while I was recording but somehow I cut it out during the edit. Oops. I'll make note of it in the description. Thanks for letting me know!
Sadly no. When I said flip it at 1:14 I meant invert the image so it engraved the white area instead of the black areas. Thanks for looking out for me!
@@LetsMakeAThing The SubLayers are relatively new to LightBurn - and your way is how it was done before that. But with Sublayers you can save a few clicks ;-) Wondering why you burnt all the excess inlay wood - wouldn't it be easier and a lot faster, just to cut the shapes needed? Like with a multi coloured plot i.e. I´ll give it a try, nevertheless
By burning off the areas on the inlay you don't want you can then press it directly into the pocket. If you only cut the shapes you'd have to remove the excess by hand and then run the risk of accidentally moving pieces so they don't line up correctly. Not a huge deal on the wolf I did but if you were doing something really complex with lots of tiny little bits cutting and then removing the excess by hand would be really time consuming.
That is true. Personally, I'd rather the part spend more time in the laser while I do other things and then press fit the inlay without needing to remove extra material by hand. I'm sure others would rather reduce time in the laser, for example if you're a laser cutting business.
Why do you vaporize the maple around the inlays rather than just cutting them out? Seems like you're adding a few thousand percent to the print time and I'm not sure why. Is this just some limitation of your laser and or the software?
In the video I was demonstrating a zero weed method which is better suited to more complex inlays where you don't want to be placing every inlay piece by hand. The wolf was not a good pattern to demonstrate this because it looks like I wasted a bunch of time by burning off all the excess maple. If I were to remake this video I would use a really complex inlay to demonstrate. For simple patterns like this wolf, cutting out the parts and placing them by hand is much faster.
@@LetsMakeAThing esa parte la entiendo pero si tuvo varios errores allí con los tiempos de grabado y métodos de uso del grabado es pero que ya maneje mejor el ligburnt 😁 saludos
How will running at 80% power kill the diode laser? Running something at less than full power should produce less heat in the device prolonging it's lifespan.
@@LetsMakeAThing you can trust me or not :) i had a diode laser and using it @ 75/85% every time, i cutted many things, costantly loss power, after 2 month it lost about 20% of his power so i had to buy a CO2 laser to use it at 50% and now i dont have any more problem of lifetime. maybe was my atomstack that had some problem but that is what is happen to me. now i use the diode laser only to engrave if i have to cut i use co2
Kind click bait here, telling us we'd learn how to make darker engraves, then at the end saying it's in another video. You also mentioned how to make wood flat. I didn't see that either.
Hi Depending on the power and lens system on your diode just drop the focus 2mm at a time and a miracle happens. This is great for simple text or black and white logo engraving but is of no value for grayscale images.
***Important note - I left out the fact that I mirrored (flipped horizontal highlight the image and press H) the inlay in Lightburn. I remember saying it while recording but for some reason it got chopped in the edit. That's what I get for editing late at night!***
As the saying goes "without scrap it's crap"! And I certainly did use a lot of scrap wood getting this processed dialed in! In the end I think it was worth it and I hope this resulting video has been helpful to you. If it has, hit the like button and leave me a comment and let me know what kind of inlays you plan to make!
so by mirroring the inlay you wont need to count for the kerf?
The sanding audio was so freaking funny🤣
Glad you found it amusing!
@@LetsMakeAThing It reminded me of my cat eating. Yum yum yum mmm LOL!
Note - if you want a fill with a line around the outside, LB has that built in - just select "Fill + Line" as the type of cut instead of line or fill.
Thanks for the info!
can you point out what time you are referring to use this tip
@@abusam1 Around 2:16 - he copies the fill to do a fill and a line on the same object. Just saying a small simplification is to use the fill+line to save 5 seconds.
The flattening trick is sooo smart
Thank you! I had the idea from using it on my 3018 CNC when I don't have space for hold down clamps.
Just a thank you for your time and I like the way you explain things its great foe new bees like me leaning diode lasering at 65 is great fun. Again thank you for your time it really helps.
Glad it was helpful to you!
Nice video! Quick tip: Instead of copy- paste- align, you can just press Ctrl-D which will duplicate and select in the exact same spot, then just click the layer you want to put it on. No align needed :)
Thanks for the tip! Appreciate it!
If you heat press thin woods they will typically straighten up
Thanks for the tip!
Great video! This popped up on my YT Home feed and I'm glad it did, great detailed video and awesome product! ! SUBBED !
Hey Sam, thanks for stopping by and the sub! Been following your channel for a while now. Are you still liking your new workshop?
@@LetsMakeAThing More and more each day! :) I'm always tweaking something to get it to work better for me. :) Thanks for the follow!
It is a small world great to see you here Sam.🤣🛫
CNC's are great and can do some great carvings but it takes a very long time..
I know I have a really nice onefinity cnc and do intricate carving can take 5-6+ hours to do.
Lasers can do them granted not as deep much faster
Very cool. I will have to try this.
Regarding the tape. You could also add the tape to the top after the cut.
Also why didn't you just cut out the inlay parts? Seems like a waste of the material.
Thanks for the comment! Let me know how it works for you!
Boy O boy you must have some time invested with Lazer engraver that wolf is insane. Very nice job, she will love that.
Thank you! She absolutely loved the wolf!
Thanks mate I have only just got a laser but watching everything I can ! This has been so informative great product 😁😁
Glad it was helpful! Since you're new to laser engraving I want to let you know I have a course on getting started that will help speed up your learning! Link in the video description.
Awesome build, and great video!
Thank you!
Amazing! Does this work without any kerf considerations?
What a great video, thank for sharing. I did not see what the optical power of your laser is, i would like to know as i have not purchased my new laser yet.
I made this video over a year ago and at that time I only had a 5 watt laser. I have now owned and used 5, 20, 33, and 40 watt diodes and a 55watt CO2 laser. My advice is to purchase the highest wattage you can afford. You'll be able to run jobs faster and cut through thicker material.
Just found your channel I have a xtool about to upgrade to a C02 but still light years behind on lightburn thanks for this man.
You're welcome! Glad you found the video helpful!
What laser r u running?
I have an Ortur Laser Master Pro 2. It's 5.5 watts. There's a link to it in the description.
did you know if you hit the + near the top of the "cut settings editor" window you can add a line to the existing layer?
sorry just saw a comment in the same vain from 2 weeks ago
It's all good. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Great tutorial! Thank you Sir!
Thanks for the comment! Glad you found it useful!
Looks great... Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! And thanks for watching!
It looks amazing!
Great technique!
Thank you!
Awesome video thankyou for the upload
You're welcome! Glad you found it useful!
Great video, loved it. How about Burnie?
Oh that's a good one! Thanks for leaving a comment!
Can you tell me what kind of tape you use ? ( the blue one ). Thanks !
2 inch blue painters tape. Link is in the description.
Thanks for that glue down tip! I’m tired of using a ton of magnets to hold it flat to the honeycomb. I’m about to start a channel soon myself making laser and epoxy resin projects. I also create naturalistic aquariums and reptile enclosures. Currently have an Xtool D1 Pro and 20 tanks with all types of fish and reptiles. Just got my pressure pot, computer, and go pro and I’m almost ready to go!
Glad I could help!
Great tutorial! I want to practice this technique so I can add inlays to a guitar fretboard. Do you know if it matters if I use a sheet or rotary sander? Thanks 👍
I've only done this with a random orbital so I can't say for sure about other methods. Hand sanding should work fine as well it will just take longer. Let me know how it works out for you. I like the idea of using it for a fret board!
tks for the video. I like your idea
Glad you liked it!
Great video... just got my xTool. Have you tried double sided carpet tape?
Thank you!
Carpet tape is a big no for laser engraving because many of those tapes are made with PVC. When PVC is engraved or cut it releases chlorine gas which is extremely toxic. The chlorine will also bond with hydrogen in the air creating hydrogen chloride which is bad for your laser engraver. In short, both your life, and your lasers life, will be greatly shortened if you cut/engrave materials with PVC!
I missed in the video where you mirrored the image so the inlay would lay in the burned image upside down..
You didn't miss it. I flipped the inlay in lightburn but accidentally left that footage out in the edit. Another viewer spotted it and I updated my pinned comment to say you have to mirror the inlay.
Great video. I was curious for a while why you didn' just set cut layers for the inlay piece until you did the 'zero weed' placement. Your audio is near perfect. How do you do that?
Thank you! Admittedly, the wolf was not the best choice to demonstrate this method as it's still probably quicker to cut this and inlay by hand. In fact, I've had several comments about how this is a waste of time, but on a more complex project this method would be a huge time saver.
Glad you think the audio sounds good! It's a lot of work to make it sound the way it does. Everything is recorded on either a lav mic or a condenser mic and then is edited in Adobe Audition to get the levels right and remove noise, echo, etc. I do this for each audio clip I import to ensure appropriate levels and that it sounds right. Then in Premiere I have it set to export at a specific loudness level that TH-cam suggests. The end product is what you hear in my videos!
For the inlay element, the white maple, why didn’t you just use line to cut them, it would have been far shorter to do. I use sheet veneer as you don’t need to burn too deep on the parent material.
I burned off the excess so I can push it right into the pocket in one go. Not really necessary on the wolf but if you were doing a really intricate inlay with lots of tiny pieces it makes it a ton easier.
Ohhhhhh that makes sense!
Love this! I hope to get here someday. Waiting for my first laser to arrive
Congrats on the new laser! Hope you enjoy it!
Thank you for te video, just wondering if the charcoal doesn't ruin the bonding of the inlay to the pocket. As a scale modeller I have been tought to always sand off the charcoal when building a wooden lasercut model.
Good question! The fit is so snug that I probably didn't even need to use glue. Also, since this is a decorative piece and won't be handled often, with the snug fit and the wood glue I used I doubt any of the pieces are ever coming out. If I was making something that would be handled or used frequently I might consider a different method such as v-carving on a CNC.
I am relatively new with LightBurn, since you are using version 1.3 is there a reason you did not combine the fill layer and the line after fill using LightBurn's ability to have multiple actions in the same layer?
Great question! I didn't combine them for clarity in the video. I felt it was easier to show using multiple layers. No other reason.
Looks great!!! Nice job and great video!!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it!
thanks
You're welcome!
Warum nimmst du keine Reflektierende Folie? Sowas wie selbstklebende AluFolie oder Spiegelfolie? Das sorgt dafür, dass der Laser nicht durch geht und klebt die Teile bis zum Anbringen perfekt zusammen?
where did you get that wood?
I forgot to add the link in the description, sorry about that! You can find the maple I used here: amzn.to/40QbtWm
The walnut is from my local woodworking supplier.
great video
Awesome Audio
Keep it going
Thank you so much!
Holy hell that's amazing! 👏 🐺 And on just a diode? Wow.
Thank you!
Love this 💰😁
Thank you!
Hola...
Lo primero es felicitarle por este trabajo tan bien ejecutado... Felicidades!!!
Me ha impresionado mucho este proyecto y los resultados obtenidos, son geniales...
Se ha ganado un Like y un nuevo suscriptor...
Gracias por compartir este video... Gracias...
Un fuerte abrazo...
Thank you for the sub and I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Gracias!
@@LetsMakeAThing García a usted...
Ha sido un trabajo magnífico... 👍
Hello there. Very interesting video. QQ What kind if laser did you use for this project and wjat did you set your kerf at? Thanks
I used an Ortur Laser Master Pro 2 which is a 5 watt diode laser. I didn't make any changes to the kerf just engraved as is in Lightburn.
Did I miss something? I don't recall you flipping your inlay in Lightburn but you flipped the piece to glue it into the pocket.
You didn't miss it. I flipped the inlay in lightburn but I accidentally left that footage out in the edit. Another viewer spotted it and I updated my pinned comment to say you have to mirror the inlay.
Pretty neat 👌
Thank you!
You didn't mention, when burning the inlay, that you mirrored the image.
You are absolutely right! I remembering mentioning it while I was recording but somehow I cut it out during the edit. Oops. I'll make note of it in the description. Thanks for letting me know!
Wait, isn’t it mentioned that at 1:14?
Sadly no. When I said flip it at 1:14 I meant invert the image so it engraved the white area instead of the black areas. Thanks for looking out for me!
Superb
Thank you!
This is an excellent idea and technique. Thank you !⚡️
Glad you liked the video!
Why did you engrave the small pieces and not just cut them out?
This method makes more sense for a really complex inlay with lots of pieces. Didn't think about that when I decided to use the wolf for demonstration.
Awesome
Thank you!
Thus shall be thy true name: Wolfie! :D Wow, I didn't even know that was possible. Well done.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Wolfgang Van Make-a-Thing!
That is a good one!
Hi, why copy, arrange and select a new layer? You could just add a Sublayer to the first ;-)
No real reason other than that's how I did it when making the video. At the time I felt it would be easier to follow with multiple layers.
@@LetsMakeAThing The SubLayers are relatively new to LightBurn - and your way is how it was done before that.
But with Sublayers you can save a few clicks ;-)
Wondering why you burnt all the excess inlay wood - wouldn't it be easier and a lot faster, just to cut the shapes needed? Like with a multi coloured plot i.e.
I´ll give it a try, nevertheless
By burning off the areas on the inlay you don't want you can then press it directly into the pocket. If you only cut the shapes you'd have to remove the excess by hand and then run the risk of accidentally moving pieces so they don't line up correctly. Not a huge deal on the wolf I did but if you were doing something really complex with lots of tiny little bits cutting and then removing the excess by hand would be really time consuming.
@@LetsMakeAThing Well, bigger part burning will also be time consuming ;-)
May be an offset could help so that removing parts would pose no risk
That is true. Personally, I'd rather the part spend more time in the laser while I do other things and then press fit the inlay without needing to remove extra material by hand. I'm sure others would rather reduce time in the laser, for example if you're a laser cutting business.
Nice
Thank you!
Let's call him Wolfhard
I like it! Thanks for the name idea!
Why do you vaporize the maple around the inlays rather than just cutting them out? Seems like you're adding a few thousand percent to the print time and I'm not sure why. Is this just some limitation of your laser and or the software?
In the video I was demonstrating a zero weed method which is better suited to more complex inlays where you don't want to be placing every inlay piece by hand. The wolf was not a good pattern to demonstrate this because it looks like I wasted a bunch of time by burning off all the excess maple. If I were to remake this video I would use a really complex inlay to demonstrate. For simple patterns like this wolf, cutting out the parts and placing them by hand is much faster.
I've been doing this in hard wood some years now, then I just face it off in the mill.
Facing it off is a great idea! Sadly, i don't have a mill or a big enough CNC to do that.
That is a great tip with thin stock. I have been battling cutting it as it keeps lifting. Thank you for sharing.
You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful!
As far as naming the wolf, how about we go with "Akela missed his kill." Seems fitting.
Nice Jungle Book reference.
Should be noted flood fill does not always work to make it shorter. I’ve seen jobs in flood fill take 7 hours and no flood fill take 2.5 hours…
That is true. It depends on the design and layout you are running.
You are basically the past of that australian channel
I love Mighty Car Mods! Don't see the resemblance though...
lo único malo fue el uso del laser fue muy tardado para lo que hizo ya le falta pasar aun modelo de cabezal mas nuevo como el lu210A de ortur
I can't afford to buy a more powerful laser head every time a new one comes out. The 5 watt Ortur is what I have so it's what I used.
@@LetsMakeAThing esa parte la entiendo pero si tuvo varios errores allí con los tiempos de grabado y métodos de uso del grabado es pero que ya maneje mejor el ligburnt 😁 saludos
Gracias
@@LetsMakeAThing tks you😁😁
if you keep using diode laser @ 80% power it will die very fast so pay attenction
How will running at 80% power kill the diode laser? Running something at less than full power should produce less heat in the device prolonging it's lifespan.
@@LetsMakeAThing you can trust me or not :) i had a diode laser and using it @ 75/85% every time, i cutted many things, costantly loss power, after 2 month it lost about 20% of his power so i had to buy a CO2 laser to use it at 50% and now i dont have any more problem of lifetime. maybe was my atomstack that had some problem but that is what is happen to me. now i use the diode laser only to engrave if i have to cut i use co2
Kind click bait here, telling us we'd learn how to make darker engraves, then at the end saying it's in another video. You also mentioned how to make wood flat. I didn't see that either.
I said in the video that the tape and super glue creates a clamp to flatten the wood for engraving.
Hi
Depending on the power and lens system on your diode just drop the focus 2mm at a time and a miracle happens. This is great for simple text or black and white logo engraving but is of no value for grayscale images.
THIS IS SO SMORT
Thats very ... Very slow process to be honest
Love your channel. You get a subbie.
Welcome aboard!