Great info on air flow underneath the workpiece. I can’t wait for when you get an Xtool P2 and offer a class series on using the CO2 laser. In the meantime I’ll continue to learn from your diode laser videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, George - Funny enough, I've actually been testing out a P2 in my shop for the last couple of months. My next video on the channel will be a review of the machine. Cheers!
Love your videos and they have indeed saved me a lot of time and hassle! Thank you! Also love the shirt as I grew up a few miles away from the North Unit. I spent countless weekends hiking and running around the park, especially around Cannonball Concretion pullout area.
Hi Asher, Hi from New Zealand. Well just came accross you video today, I did like the vido and have sub. I can see there could be a few different things I could learn from you. I have been laser rngraving two years now, but alway on the look out for new tips and tricks which I havent learnt. Great job
Nice video. Ingredient 5 would be Material. Both is type and quality. Some materials just do not cut as well as others, and it's not just about thickness. Some materials just create more smoke than others. I think another thing people confuse is smote/soot VS scorching. Scorching is to burn a material with heat. If you can wipe that "Scorch" off with a damp rag, it was just smoke. Smoke is very common, and wiping it off with water or isopropyl alcohol is an easy solution.
Hey Asher, great video. Can you please clarify something for me. @9:39 you are talking about cutting with the air assist on but engraving with it off. I am using the air assist that comes with my Wecreat Vista. How do you set it so it is on, on the cut but off on the engrave in the software?
I discovered very quickly that it was worth upgrading to an ultimate air assist kit that lets me have "just enough airflow to push smoke away from the lense" and "15 psi (my compressor just isn't that good sacrifices have to be made)" for blowing through"
Some great info. I have a 24w j tech for my one finity elite that’s been in a box since the only time I tried it. I had air flow on for engraving and it seemed to feed the fire and burned it all. Anywho, just ordered the honeycomb, which I was unaware of and some hod downs. Also the term is jury rig, vs Jerry. Also, also, definitely interested in your course!
I have the same setup as you. I would strongly recommend going to home Depot and by 12 by 18 ceramic tiles if you flip them upside down they have a grid on the back that will allow air to flow. This will save your spoil board.
This is a great informative video thanks for sharing. Now I need to know what do I need to buy to control the flow of my general purpose air compressor similar to yours.
That was really helpful, thanks! Question - how do you measure the PSI of the air pump? I'm currently using a 40L/min aquarium/hydroponic pump but can't find any published PSI info. Also, is there a way to turn the air on and off automatically, or do you just do two separate burns and manually activate the air? Thanks for the great video - I look forward to checking out the others in the series!
My first air assist pump was 30L/min and about 5 PSI. I can’t remember off the top of my head if I got that number from the manufacturer or calculated it. And personally, I control the air assist manually. Though it is possible to make it automatic with the right setup.
Thanks for the guide, guess I need to replace my honeycomb for some applications or put something between it :) Main downside I see for a big air compressor is that they're much louder and another huge machine you need to put somewhere. Also, is there any max PSI you should use?
Yep - it's definitely louder. I use a California Air Tools compressor, which is quite a bit quieter than a normal pancake air compressor. But it's still loud enough that I usually wear ear protection if I'm running it for an extended period.
I started with a compressor and went back to an xtools ali express pump just for the noise aspect and wearing out my compressor. It's fine for front only and okish for cutting but obviously I have a compressor for slash and burn if needed.
I picked up an "ultra quiet" direct-drive air compressor a while ago. It was cheap enough, standard 135psi thing, small tank, carry handle, looks like any other. I needed a smaller compressor and figured if it was a little bit quieter then it'd be good enough. It is so quiet! Unbelievable how quiet it is. I mean, it putters along and it can rattle things on the table above where it sits. More noise than a fridge compressor. But, it's surprisingly "ultra quiet." So, they're out there and it's an option. Yeah, I use it for my laser. The hissing air and stepper motors are louder than the compressor. I do worry about duty cycle on longer cuts though.
@@4Fixerdave can you share the model you got ? if you want to isolate the vibes put down some HD foam then a cement flag stone big enough to sit the compressor on above that foam, it will isolate the vibes by at least 70% for next to no cost. the different densities and added mass will solve it .
The dirtier your honeycomb and pan are, the dirtier the back will be. Also, pitch/resin build up can catch fire...have multiple honeycomb s and keep one clean.
Not so much. Flashback is the laser beam reflecting back. Beam reflect better off of clean and shiny surfaces than they do off of dull and dirty surfaces. Many users new to lasers, complain in laser groups about flashback.... and their laser beds are sparkly clean. I do not have flashback issues, and my laser bed has not been cleaned in a year..... Because I use the correct speed and power to do the job, and excess power is the #1 cause of flashback.
@jonwoodworker I keep my crumbtray clean, and I have like 2 FEET of clearance, so there is very little fure risk. I have been at this o er 4 years ... In set.
Has anyone used a cheap airbrush compressor? They are typically adjustable up to 35-40psi and much cheaper, smaller and quieter than those big 'shop' compressors.
Good point. I personally kind of consider that part of the “air flow” ingredient, but I probably could have talked more about the importance of exhaust overall. Cheers.
Very helpful info. I'm going to stop being so lazy, and replace my aquarium pump with my airbrush compressor, today. Thanks!
Great info on air flow underneath the workpiece. I can’t wait for when you get an Xtool P2 and offer a class series on using the CO2 laser. In the meantime I’ll continue to learn from your diode laser videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks, George - Funny enough, I've actually been testing out a P2 in my shop for the last couple of months. My next video on the channel will be a review of the machine. Cheers!
I use screen underneath 2mm plywood above honeycomb. Just trying masking tonight. Have assist, using at highest setting. Thanks for the video.
Love your videos and they have indeed saved me a lot of time and hassle! Thank you! Also love the shirt as I grew up a few miles away from the North Unit. I spent countless weekends hiking and running around the park, especially around Cannonball Concretion pullout area.
Awesome - glad to hear that!
Hi Asher, Hi from New Zealand. Well just came accross you video today, I did like the vido and have sub. I can see there could be a few different things I could learn from you. I have been laser rngraving two years now, but alway on the look out for new tips and tricks which I havent learnt. Great job
Thanks, Ian - I’m a big fan of your country. Had one of the best hikes of my life doing the Milford Track there a few years ago.
Nice video. Ingredient 5 would be Material. Both is type and quality. Some materials just do not cut as well as others, and it's not just about thickness. Some materials just create more smoke than others. I think another thing people confuse is smote/soot VS scorching. Scorching is to burn a material with heat. If you can wipe that "Scorch" off with a damp rag, it was just smoke. Smoke is very common, and wiping it off with water or isopropyl alcohol is an easy solution.
Good point, some materials definitely cut cleaner than others.
Hey Asher, great video. Can you please clarify something for me. @9:39 you are talking about cutting with the air assist on but engraving with it off. I am using the air assist that comes with my Wecreat Vista. How do you set it so it is on, on the cut but off on the engrave in the software?
I discovered very quickly that it was worth upgrading to an ultimate air assist kit that lets me have "just enough airflow to push smoke away from the lense" and "15 psi (my compressor just isn't that good sacrifices have to be made)" for blowing through"
Some great info. I have a 24w j tech for my one finity elite that’s been in a box since the only time I tried it. I had air flow on for engraving and it seemed to feed the fire and burned it all. Anywho, just ordered the honeycomb, which I was unaware of and some hod downs. Also the term is jury rig, vs Jerry. Also, also, definitely interested in your course!
Cheers, Todd - thanks for watching!
I have the same setup as you. I would strongly recommend going to home Depot and by 12 by 18 ceramic tiles if you flip them upside down they have a grid on the back that will allow air to flow. This will save your spoil board.
This is a great informative video thanks for sharing.
Now I need to know what do I need to buy to control the flow of my general purpose air compressor similar to yours.
Thanks - and I just added links to all the air assist parts I use in the description of the video. hope that helps!
@@asherdiy Exactly what I needed. Thanks man. Subed and following your videos.
Great content. Thanks for posting.
Thanks, Larry - glad you liked it!
That was really helpful, thanks! Question - how do you measure the PSI of the air pump? I'm currently using a 40L/min aquarium/hydroponic pump but can't find any published PSI info. Also, is there a way to turn the air on and off automatically, or do you just do two separate burns and manually activate the air? Thanks for the great video - I look forward to checking out the others in the series!
My first air assist pump was 30L/min and about 5 PSI. I can’t remember off the top of my head if I got that number from the manufacturer or calculated it.
And personally, I control the air assist manually. Though it is possible to make it automatic with the right setup.
Thanks for the guide, guess I need to replace my honeycomb for some applications or put something between it :)
Main downside I see for a big air compressor is that they're much louder and another huge machine you need to put somewhere. Also, is there any max PSI you should use?
Yep - it's definitely louder. I use a California Air Tools compressor, which is quite a bit quieter than a normal pancake air compressor. But it's still loud enough that I usually wear ear protection if I'm running it for an extended period.
I don't know if there's a specific max PSI. It probably depends on what a given laser can handle. But I personally never run it above 35 PSI.
I started with a compressor and went back to an xtools ali express pump just for the noise aspect and wearing out my compressor. It's fine for front only and okish for cutting but obviously I have a compressor for slash and burn if needed.
I picked up an "ultra quiet" direct-drive air compressor a while ago. It was cheap enough, standard 135psi thing, small tank, carry handle, looks like any other. I needed a smaller compressor and figured if it was a little bit quieter then it'd be good enough. It is so quiet! Unbelievable how quiet it is. I mean, it putters along and it can rattle things on the table above where it sits. More noise than a fridge compressor. But, it's surprisingly "ultra quiet." So, they're out there and it's an option. Yeah, I use it for my laser. The hissing air and stepper motors are louder than the compressor. I do worry about duty cycle on longer cuts though.
@@4Fixerdave can you share the model you got ? if you want to isolate the vibes put down some HD foam then a cement flag stone big enough to sit the compressor on above that foam, it will isolate the vibes by at least 70% for next to no cost. the different densities and added mass will solve it .
Turning off air pump makes the lens of diode lasers dirty/cloudy which affects cutting power.
Ty. :)
Thanks for watching!
The dirtier your honeycomb and pan are, the dirtier the back will be. Also, pitch/resin build up can catch fire...have multiple honeycomb s and keep one clean.
Great point - I definitely need to clean mine.
Excellent point! Use LA awsome, inexpensive and really cuts through the pitch/glue. And smells so much better than the green stuff.
Not so much. Flashback is the laser beam reflecting back. Beam reflect better off of clean and shiny surfaces than they do off of dull and dirty surfaces. Many users new to lasers, complain in laser groups about flashback.... and their laser beds are sparkly clean. I do not have flashback issues, and my laser bed has not been cleaned in a year..... Because I use the correct speed and power to do the job, and excess power is the #1 cause of flashback.
@LithosAndLasers Make sure your insurance will cover you when your laser catches fire.
@jonwoodworker I keep my crumbtray clean, and I have like 2 FEET of clearance, so there is very little fure risk. I have been at this o er 4 years ... In set.
What connectors did you use to connect to the air compressor
Good question - I just updated the description of this video to now include links to the tubing kit and other parts I use for my air assist set-up.
Has anyone used a cheap airbrush compressor? They are typically adjustable up to 35-40psi and much cheaper, smaller and quieter than those big 'shop' compressors.
I haven’t tried it, but I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t work.
Ingredient #5: exhaust. Without adequate exhaust, your engravings will be scorched. Otherwise, very thorough. Thanks!
Good point. I personally kind of consider that part of the “air flow” ingredient, but I probably could have talked more about the importance of exhaust overall. Cheers.
Jury rigged :)