I don't even own a laser... but I appreciate greatly your generosity and the clarity of the tutorial Plus the results are indeed stunning... people like you is what makes YT a treasure cove, thanks mate
Laser Dave, Laser Dave, Crafts with skill so bold and brave. Inlays shine, wood designs, Teaching us his crafty lines. Look out! Here comes the Laser Dave!
This is insanely clever! Thank you so much for sharing this technique so openly. I simply can not wait to see what you and the other brilliant minds there come up with next!
Thank you very much I have 22W diode laser. Never used before. So it’s interesting adventure for me. Anyway, thanks for your reply and have a super nice day Cheers
@@TrotecLaser Once again, I want to say a big thank you for the method! Today I tried it on a linden tree - the result is magnificent, the details fit very tightly into each other. In general, you have opened new horizons of creativity for me! Thanks again and good luck! Subscribed
Merci pour ce magnifique tuto qui donne envie de commencer dès aujourd'hui. Je suis tellement curieux de faire mes essais et voir le résultat. c'est bluffant sur la vidéo. Vite commander de l'alu et du plaquage et se mettre au dessin.
Oh man. I’m floored Dave. This is outstanding!! Thank you for sharing this technique. It’s gonna take a few tries for us to get it right. Those exotic woods are gonna get pricey. Question. Will the parallax effect from the overhead camera cause your two subjects to be out of true or alignment for this kind of precision? I could understand if placing them in direct center below the camera improves accuracy however the further away from the center of the bed, the more problematic this may become. Especially so when running batches. We’ll plan this out, pick up some supplies and try a few runs. It’ll take some practice. The foil bit is insightful. Not understanding why you don’t get reflections anywhere in this process. This is really cool…your vids are always top notch and keeps us engaged.
I use the camera in the center because it is better for filming, and there is a bit more distortion when used at the edges. For better alignment, I use the red pointer method.th-cam.com/video/ygdIWLLc7Jw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=deDHyePIVqiN3f4m
Bravo!! I love the excitement in your voice. Dude, Amazing innovation and dang good visual demonstration on your laser's capability. If I could ask what were some of the failures to get to this point? What didn't work before it did, was
Thank you; so happy you like the video. The only real issues I ran into was that I over-sanded some of the first samples, losing detail, and found that some species of wood, when inlayed, would bleed the color of the wood when sanding, making it a bit more complicated. - Laser Dave
Dave, I know you create these videos with the primary reason to benefit your customers, but I hope that you realize how much you help the entire laser engraving/cutting community. I own a different brand laser, but have used some of your previous methods on projects and they are incredible! Thank you for your efforts! With that, I find myself having to "re-engineer" some of the settings you recommend for your Ruby software to work with my current software, and understandably so. Would you mind sharing what Image Mode was used for this? Since there are no gradients in these images, would you use "Threshold" to get the desired results on the inlay plug or would you recommend something different? Again, thank you for sharing. Subscribed!
Thank you! I am happy that you like my videos; you are very welcome! If you have an image that is not a pure black-and-white image, then "Threshold" will not be enough; most graphic software has a method to convert any image to a true 1-bit or pure black-and-white image, which will be necessary for this process to work. You can use Threshold, but that does not guarantee no grey tones in the graphic; once you have a pure black graphic image, duplicate it, then invert and mirror for the veneer engraving in this example. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser I understand everything you just mentioned. The test images you offered have no grey areas and appear to be solid black and solid white. I was asking specifically what image mode you used for those to duplicate the project in your video. Thank you for the fast response!
Okay, I got it. I did not use an "Image mode." Trotec machines can turn the image mode off or to "None," but if you do not have that, then a "Black and white" image mode will work, or even a 3D or relief mode will also work. If you have a pure black-and-white image, it should not matter. Most laser brands will see it as black and white and not apply a dither pattern, but I cannot be sure based on what brand you use. To be sure, test some scrap and see if the laser produces any patterns that should not be there before you attempt the inlay.
Stunning results! I tried it out, and it works like a charm! There's some minor issues that I'll have to calibrate for, for example, I have a little space around the veneer, so I'll probably have to calibrate the kerf width some more. Also, my aluminum tape is so sticky that it's prone to tear small pieces of veneer apart when I remove it after the glue up, so for anyone giving this a try, maybe offbrand aluminum tape is better than the stickier brand stuff.
That is outstanding to hear! If you are having some kerf issues, then it may be your laser parameters; overpowering can cause some loss of detail or a "Loose Kerf." Keep tinkering; I am sure you will find the best configuration based on your laser system and the materials you use. Took me a few tries the first time- Laser Dave
Thank you for sharing your process behind these inspiring creations! You've given the community so many techniques and ideas. I tried this on the xTool P2 55w CO2 laser and it worked flawlessly for a script inlay. Any idea when you might release the abalone shell inlay video? I'm curious how the process differs with that material and have a project in mind for it already!
Hey that's a great idea there Dave the aluminum won't engrave away and you can clean it up works on the same Principle as doing inlays with a CNC router
This is flat-out brilliant. I ran out and snagged some 2.5” tape and a roller at Lowe’s to test it out. Worked like an absolute charm. Any concerns about toxicity or damage to the laser from burning the adhesive? Definitely had an odor, but I’m not actually sure of the composition.
I’m glad to hear you’re pleased with this process! As long as your laser system is equipped with a reliable exhaust setup, there will be no concerns regarding toxicity or potential damage to the laser from burning the adhesive.
@@TrotecLaser Appreciate that! I’ve got a good exhaust fan/ventilation set-up so I should be all right. I may track down MSDS info just to be absolutely safe, but I’ll keep playing around in the meantime. It’s a wonderful technique. Thanks so much for sharing it!
Titebond III is a polyvinyl acetate (PVA)-based adhesive that also contains cross-linking agents and proprietary additives to enhance its waterproof properties. When exposed to high heat from a laser, the following thermal decomposition products may be released: • Formaldehyde - A known irritant and potential carcinogen that can cause respiratory irritation, watery eyes, and throat discomfort. • Acetic Acid - Can cause mild respiratory and eye irritation. • Carbon Monoxide (CO) - A toxic gas that can reduce oxygen transport in the blood, leading to headaches, dizziness, and nausea. • Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) - Potential respiratory irritants that can contribute to lung inflammation and exacerbate conditions like asthma. • Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) - These may include uncharacterized proprietary chemicals used in Titebond III’s formulation, which could result in additional irritants when burned. Long-Term Health Risks: • Chronic exposure to formaldehyde is linked to an increased risk of nasal and lung cancers. • Prolonged inhalation of VOCs and combustion byproducts can contribute to neurological and respiratory issues. Needless to say - In absence of a complete ventilation system that includes proper filtration for vapor abatement, avoid using Titebond III (wet or cured) in conjunction with laser cutting or engraving.
daNGIT MAN!!! you wizard 🧙♂! ima wiz too 🧙♂, luv creating new process and finishes!!! and thiz video right here gave me a chubby for a laser machine, now ima gonna have to buy me one... PROBLEM IS... im in brasil.
Love this and can't wait to try it. it's been on my list to try for a while now. I have 2 questions for you or anyone who has been using this method. 1. Wood grain direction. Any thoughts on if the direction makes a difference? ie. same for base wood and veneer or if a different orientation would be better/worse 2. For the veneer, does it matter which side you stick to the foil tape? I would think the 'top' would be cleaner so it should be stuck to the foil so it will be up in the final product. thoughts?
Grain direction significantly impacts the final look, so use your judgment based on colors, patterns, and design. With experience, you’ll identify what works best. I recommend adhering the cleanest veneer side to the foil, as this will be visible in the finished inlay. If imperfections exist, keep that side facing up to avoid showcasing them. - Laser Dave
I need to get some vineer wood! I want to try this. I suspect I can do the same thing with thicker woods as well though- I'll start experimenting with what I have. that foil hack was an awesome idea! I've just got a couple diodes- 10/20w- some Day CO2, I'm coming for ya!
This is absolutely amazing!!! Woooow!! It's the most beautyful work I've seen in a long time... Do you thing it's possible on acrylic? Thank you so much for shearing your knowledge
Thank you! I'm delighted to hear that you're pleased with it. Regarding using acrylic, it should theoretically be compatible; however, sanding could be a bit tricky. That said, it’s definitely worth exploring! I'll conduct a few tests to gauge its performance, though I haven’t tried it just yet. I’ve got some techniques in mind that could make it work, but it may require a bit of experimentation. -- Laser Dave.
Great Techniques and thanks for sharing!!! How thick is the veneer you are using? Also, when I double burn the veneer the shown foil is very resinous, have you try to clean it as well before gluing? Does it loosen the saved parts of the veneer inlays? I am going to try slowing the speed down on the veneer engraving to see if I can make it through to the foil on first attempt to eliminate more of the resin.. Also what do you think if one uses an 1 1/2" lens? Thanks again and keep raising the bar!!!!
Yes, it is possible to clean it, and It did not loosen the parts in my tests, but because this is the back side you are seeing, cleaning the veneer was found unnecessary as the engraved side will not be seen. No reflection issues were present when processing the aluminum because it is perfectly flat, causing any reflection to only reflect back into the laser tube, making it harmless. I am using standard traditional veneer thicknesses around 0.015 -0.024". The 1.5" lens will allow for even better detail in this video! Because most have a 2.0" lens, that is the one I decided to showcase in the video, but you are correct that a 1.5"lens is a great option.
Thanks again for such an exciting new technique. My first attempt using plywood failed because the glued veneer pulled away with the aluminum tape. I repeated the steps with hardwood and it worked perfectly. I don't know if the plywood I used was MDF core but I'm guessing that the engineered core of the plywood was too friable for this technique. Does that seem right? Plywood is desirable for both cost and availability of larger pieces. Any other thoughts?
As long as you give the glue time to dry, it should work on plywood. However, I did not attempt this in any plywood. Something I did not mention in the video is that because the aluminum blocks out the air, I found that it caused the glue to take longer than expected to dry on larger surface engravings, which may cause your issue. So, if you are unsure, let it sit overnight before you pull the aluminum to be sure that the glue has cured, I let one example sit over 4 days over the long Fourth of July weekend, and the aluminum still peeled up perfectly. - Laser Dave
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure. - Laser Dave
I suppose if you wanted to you could do a multiple layer process that you could do multiple laser and inlay steps with different colours then end up with a full coloured picture but that would take more hours to do than would be feasible to charge for
You are correct! I have actually done this!! After the first inlay is complete, the foil is peeled (before sanding). If you need/want additional colors, place the now inlaid wood sheet back into the laser and engrave it again with a file that engraves a different location, then repeat the process with additional veneer colors. This takes far more time, but the results are breathtaking; I have been working on some "example projects" I will show in future videos. Trying to make a "full-color photo" could work with a Red, Green, and Blue stained veneer by separating any photo into its separate RGB colors, making three files, then converting each to black and white black, and then inlaying them using this method. Still, I am unsure how this would look. - Laser Dave
This varied based on the species of wood used. Most of the veneer used was a traditional thickness of around 0.0010 to 0.015", and I engraved the base wood to about that same depth with some initial testing. Measure the thickness of the veneer you buy, then do an engraving test to make sure that the engraving matches that thickness.
@@TrotecLaser Dave Thanks. I also download the files!!! Thank you so much. Question do I need to mirror the 'neg' file? or is ready to engrave on the veneer?
I am not familiar with Lightburn. The main file is just a black-and-white image. Then, you take that same image and mirror and Invert it so that it is a perfect inverted and mirrored image of the original to engrave on the foil backed veneer. If you are unsure how to do this in Lightburn, then you will need to seek help from users of lighburn or from the company that makes it. Mirroring and inverting are common features that all graphic software can do. - Laser Dave
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave
This may be possible, but it will depend on the adhesive used; however, I would not recommend it. If the adhesive used is too "Sticky," the veneer will not peel away correctly after the glue has dried, making the final steps far more work, or it will not work at all. If the adhesive used is not "Sticky enough," it will not hold the tiny details correctly before the parts are inlaid together, causing the parts to fall away from the aluminum during the gluing process. This ducting aluminum tape seems perfect based on what it is typically designed for (industrial metal ducting). You can buy much smaller rolls at a much lower price and then use more than one piece on larger sheets of veneer to save on cost. The foil link provided offers many different sizes starting at $18.88 for the 3" wide roll, or you can also pick this material up at most hardware stores. - Laser Dave
Hi,Dave,The detail of the laser engraving is especially stunning. What I would like to ask is: what is the finest line thickness in the file so that the lines are preserved after laser engraving.
This will depend on a few things, such as what lens is being used and the material or wood species being later processed, as this can vary based on how each material can handle laser heat in addition to the laser parameters and the engraving resolution all factor into pushing this limit. I find that engraving is the easy part; it is the reverse engraving of the foil of the veneer that can be an issue, and the thinnest line that I was able to achieve using very tight grain wood (best case scenario) was a minimum line weight of 0.005" with a 2.0" lens kit and 0.003" with a 1.5" lens kit- Laser Dave
I just started making inlays with my Atomstack 70 watt diode laser and it works amazing but I highly doubt that this guy is the founder of this idea. It's just common sense really.
@1976ClassicCelica - Thank you for sharing your experience with inlays and your Atomstack 70-watt diode laser-it’s always great to hear about others exploring laser technology. Regarding your doubt about my role in developing this process, I’d like to clarify. While the concept may seem "intuitive" once seen, I can guarantee that I pioneered this inlay method over 20 years ago, refining it through the years with innovation and more than 30,000 operational hours with lasers. I’ve worked hard to share my expertise and help the laser community grow, and I’m glad it’s inspiring others to experiment with their own machines. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser Have you implemented a third layer into any designs? I can only think to complete the first inlay process, align the piece into the laser cutter and redo an additional layer on top. This could further improve intricacy, but I'm not sure how to nail alignment for the second veneer engraving.
You are correct; that is another option for an inlay-like effect shown in another video (th-cam.com/video/MiefiXxMdEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bxU2_UHAZUPzqRL). However, UV resin inlay will produce a completely different look. Inlayed natural wood veneer into wood produces a look that cannot be reproduced any other way, and real inlay has a much higher perceived value for not much more time, creating a better ROI. However, you get to choose the effect you want to see!
You can go much smaller than 1/32 (0.031"). This will depend on your brand of laser, the laser lens you use, and the species and thickness of the wood veneer; with the ideal scenario using the best lens, the best I achieved that was confirmed and measured inlay lines as small as 0.0065."
The tape method was much more complicated and inconsistent. While it did work, any changes in the density of the wood veneer caused the laser to engrave through the tape, compromising stability. Additionally, the tape's lack of rigidity made positioning the veneer harder, and finishing was far more labor-intensive. This new method eliminates all these issues. The aluminum is more rigid, allowing for better alignment; it cannot be engraved by the laser, unlike the tape, which makes alignment and cleanup much faster. As a result, this method improves detail and total process time while improving the fine details, making the updated method far more reliable for consistent production.
Unfortunately, I do not know of a supplier in Canada for laser-grade exotic woods. Please contact our offices in Canada, and they can help guide you on this. (800) 663-1149
The process is engraved positively and negatively, not cut like a traditional inlay, so the laser beam diameter is not a factor. The inverted and positive states compensate for each other, leaving a perfect fit because of a factor called laser divergence; because of this, there is no traditional way to even measure this kerf. The glue is liquid, requiring no visual space, and it dries clear. If I were to assign a "Kerf" for the glue based on what I can see under a high-powered microscope, it would be about 5 microns or 0.000197" at 30x magnification.
@@ColinWatters I think you may be over thinking this, because of the way that this process works, "kerf" is not something that needs to be discussed for this kind of process since there is no cutting, only engraving. Simply engrave the positive into the wood base then engrave the negative/inverted and mirrored version of your graphic into the foil backed veneer and glue them together then peel and sand after the glue dries.
Im having an issue with this technique. When i pull off the foil, it sometimes pulls off some of the inlay. It could be because my veneer is paper backed but even after about 45min of dry time it still happens. Im thinking about trying with non paper backed veneer or maybe even epoxy instead of woodglue
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it will deactivate the foil adhesive temporarily. Lift up one side and drip it in there, the alcohol will form a meniscus along the peel line. Try peeling back at 180 deg to minimize lifting. Adjust your kerf so the inlay is a tight press fit
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that the foil can block airflow, which may significantly increase curing time. To address this, simply allow more time for curing and consider using a higher-quality glue for better results. - Laser Dave
Update: The alcohol trick worked really well. I also found that instead of lifting the foil, If it spin it counterclockwise or clockwise and slide it off, the veneer won't come off. The sticky residue however has a bit more opportunity to sink into the grain though so be aware especially if you are inlaying into plywood because you'll have to do a decent amount of sanding
I used CorelDRAW for the photo conversion shown in the video. I have also done this in Adobe PhotoShop. If you download the CorelDraw files using the video link, the instructions in that photo file show you what settings were used. - Laser Dave
CO2 lasers excel at cutting only "combustible" materials such as wood, plastics, papers, fabrics and leathers, and so much more; they aren’t suited for cutting non-combustible materials like metals, stone, or glass. However, these materials can still be beautifully engraved with precision, allowing for detailed customization and marking without compromising on quality.
out of curiosity, does the laser engrave straight down to create a negative with vertical sides? Is the depth of engraving just a tad smaller than the thickness of the veneer so that it sits almost flush or do they match and thus flush? Someone mentioned divergence, what part does that play? (I don't own a laser cutter)
Laser beams are not perfectly straight. They diverge in the shape of an hourglass until they reach the focal point, and because of this, there is a very slight angle only really noticed when cutting thick parts. In this example, that small amount of divergence, when engraved as a positive and negative, fills in any gaps or kerf, and this benefits us by giving a flush finish with this kind of detail.
Unlike consumer-grade products, our systems are designed for commercial and industrial applications, requiring a personalized approach to ensure optimal performance for your specific needs. As these are high-end, configurable systems, we recommend working closely with one of our technical sales experts to determine the best solution for your application. Our systems start at $8,500 for the Speedy 50 model and scale upwards depending on configuration.
Rest assured, any excess energy will safely follow the path of the laser beam and will not pose any risk, provided the surface is kept flat. This design ensures that the energy remains controlled, protecting both the equipment and surroundings.
While this process should operate similarly on any CO₂ laser, including other brands, we can only officially certify compatibility and performance with Trotec machines.
Our system is compatible with a rotary accessory, enabling it to engrave on cylindrical objects. While this process is well-suited for such applications, it would not be effective for engraving on a sphere.
Thanks very much for the reply. I'm slightly unsure what the definitive answer is though. Imagine a small wooden cone. I know I can engrave its surface with a rotary attachment and I know that I can laser a flat sheet of veneer using the method in this video. The thing I'm stuck on is how to ensure that the material cut from flat veneer will line up perfectly with the engraving on a curved (in this example, conical) object. Any help hugely appreciated!
What you’re proposing is not something we’ve previously attempted, and the varying conical diameter introduces a level of complexity that will require careful consideration. Using our rotary attachment, we can adjust the angle of the rotary to account for the taper. By utilizing an average diameter of the conical object, the digital artwork can be designed to appear flat, ensuring the corresponding engraved veneer also lays flat. This approach should theoretically work, but it will require testing to confirm its feasibility. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser Really appreciate your thoughts on this. I'll send you a message as I'd love to give this a go, trouble shoot and refine so that I can add it to my workflow. Thanks again.
Does anyone have an idea of how possible this might be with a galvo fiber laser 1064nm? Some woods can be cut with fiber laser, but the precision of the alignment is what I wonder about.
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave
Yes, we do; our Speedy 50 or Speedy 100 is perfect for this precision process in a small package at a very affordable price. Could you email me directly, and I will get you a quote. david.stevens@troteclaser.com. - Laser Dave
This is actually a damn great tutorial. Trotec out there providing the heavy lifting by showing cool things you can do.
Thank you! Happy to do the "Heavy Lifting" 😁
I don't even own a laser... but I appreciate greatly your generosity and the clarity of the tutorial
Plus the results are indeed stunning... people like you is what makes YT a treasure cove, thanks mate
Awesome! You are too kind, Thank you! 😊
There's so much value in these videos. Thank you, Dave!
Glad you like them!
Laser Dave, Laser Dave,
Crafts with skill so bold and brave.
Inlays shine, wood designs,
Teaching us his crafty lines.
Look out! Here comes the Laser Dave!
You are too kind, LOVE IT!! -- Laser Dave
This is insanely clever! Thank you so much for sharing this technique so openly. I simply can not wait to see what you and the other brilliant minds there come up with next!
You are so welcome!
Stunning!
Thank you! Cheers!
Gosh the Ideas that are popping up in my mind using this process! Thank you very much for sharing.
You are so welcome!
Absolutely love this laser hack!!! We can’t wait to see what everyone makes with this new technique!
I could not agree more, and I can't wait to see how this changes the woodworking and laser industry!
Trying this out today. The aluminum tape as a transfer sheet is genius!
Thank you, have fun!
Wow, this technique really stimulates the imagination!
I know, right!!! have fun with it; I would love to hear about what you create!
The projects are absolutely beautiful.
You are so kind, Thank you ☺️
This is crazy good! Thank you for sharing! New subscriber
Awesome! Thank you!
Wow, what an absolute legend
Wow, Thank you, you are too kind! -- Laser Dave
Like so many 'inventions' this is obvious once someone discovers it. Amazing innovation.
Amazing invention of inlay technology
Thank you very much
I have 22W diode laser.
Never used before. So it’s interesting adventure for me.
Anyway, thanks for your reply and have a super nice day
Cheers
Looks great!
Thank you. Excellent technology for fine detailing.
Glad it was helpful!
You deserve a like for sure!
I appreciate that! - Laser Dave
AMAZING!
Absolutely stunning!
Dope AF dude that aluminum backing move was next level
Thank you!
im getting a wecreat laser, i truely hope this works with it, really nice vid.
I hope so too!
Very interesting technique! Thank you very much! +
Thank you! Cheers!
@@TrotecLaser Once again, I want to say a big thank you for the method! Today I tried it on a linden tree - the result is magnificent, the details fit very tightly into each other. In general, you have opened new horizons of creativity for me! Thanks again and good luck! Subscribed
Merci pour ce magnifique tuto qui donne envie de commencer dès aujourd'hui. Je suis tellement curieux de faire mes essais et voir le résultat. c'est bluffant sur la vidéo. Vite commander de l'alu et du plaquage et se mettre au dessin.
Such a smart idea to use alu tape to recreate the process typically done with vinyl cutters.
Very cool, Laser Dave!
Happy you enjoyed it! - Laser Dave
This is pretty cool and amazing, thanks for sharing.
Glad you liked it!
I'm definitely trying this
This is brilliant. Thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you!! ☺️
This is AMAZING! Thank you for sharing...I truly appreciate the videos by Laser Dave. #Beast
Glad you enjoyed it!
awesome work!!! thank you so much for your teachings
My pleasure!
Oh man. I’m floored Dave. This is outstanding!! Thank you for sharing this technique. It’s gonna take a few tries for us to get it right. Those exotic woods are gonna get pricey.
Question. Will the parallax effect from the overhead camera cause your two subjects to be out of true or alignment for this kind of precision? I could understand if placing them in direct center below the camera improves accuracy however the further away from the center of the bed, the more problematic this may become. Especially so when running batches. We’ll plan this out, pick up some supplies and try a few runs. It’ll take some practice. The foil bit is insightful. Not understanding why you don’t get reflections anywhere in this process. This is really cool…your vids are always top notch and keeps us engaged.
I use the camera in the center because it is better for filming, and there is a bit more distortion when used at the edges. For better alignment, I use the red pointer method.th-cam.com/video/ygdIWLLc7Jw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=deDHyePIVqiN3f4m
Bravo!! I love the excitement in your voice. Dude, Amazing innovation and dang good visual demonstration on your laser's capability. If I could ask what were some of the failures to get to this point? What didn't work before it did, was
Thank you; so happy you like the video. The only real issues I ran into was that I over-sanded some of the first samples, losing detail, and found that some species of wood, when inlayed, would bleed the color of the wood when sanding, making it a bit more complicated. - Laser Dave
Dave, I know you create these videos with the primary reason to benefit your customers, but I hope that you realize how much you help the entire laser engraving/cutting community.
I own a different brand laser, but have used some of your previous methods on projects and they are incredible! Thank you for your efforts!
With that, I find myself having to "re-engineer" some of the settings you recommend for your Ruby software to work with my current software, and understandably so.
Would you mind sharing what Image Mode was used for this?
Since there are no gradients in these images, would you use "Threshold" to get the desired results on the inlay plug or would you recommend something different?
Again, thank you for sharing. Subscribed!
Thank you! I am happy that you like my videos; you are very welcome! If you have an image that is not a pure black-and-white image, then "Threshold" will not be enough; most graphic software has a method to convert any image to a true 1-bit or pure black-and-white image, which will be necessary for this process to work. You can use Threshold, but that does not guarantee no grey tones in the graphic; once you have a pure black graphic image, duplicate it, then invert and mirror for the veneer engraving in this example. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser
I understand everything you just mentioned.
The test images you offered have no grey areas and appear to be solid black and solid white.
I was asking specifically what image mode you used for those to duplicate the project in your video.
Thank you for the fast response!
Okay, I got it. I did not use an "Image mode." Trotec machines can turn the image mode off or to "None," but if you do not have that, then a "Black and white" image mode will work, or even a 3D or relief mode will also work. If you have a pure black-and-white image, it should not matter. Most laser brands will see it as black and white and not apply a dither pattern, but I cannot be sure based on what brand you use. To be sure, test some scrap and see if the laser produces any patterns that should not be there before you attempt the inlay.
Awesome technique 👍. Never thought of this inverted idea using ahesive Al tape. Thanks for showing this skill ❤
You are very welcome!
It seems to me that you are not from this planet. You are a wizard. It is incredibly beautiful!!!!
OMG so awesome and accurate work
Stunning results! I tried it out, and it works like a charm!
There's some minor issues that I'll have to calibrate for, for example, I have a little space around the veneer, so I'll probably have to calibrate the kerf width some more. Also, my aluminum tape is so sticky that it's prone to tear small pieces of veneer apart when I remove it after the glue up, so for anyone giving this a try, maybe offbrand aluminum tape is better than the stickier brand stuff.
That is outstanding to hear! If you are having some kerf issues, then it may be your laser parameters; overpowering can cause some loss of detail or a "Loose Kerf." Keep tinkering; I am sure you will find the best configuration based on your laser system and the materials you use. Took me a few tries the first time- Laser Dave
Wow! Yup, that's all I've got, but I'm going to say it again, wow!
Wow, thanks!
Thank you for sharing your process behind these inspiring creations! You've given the community so many techniques and ideas. I tried this on the xTool P2 55w CO2 laser and it worked flawlessly for a script inlay. Any idea when you might release the abalone shell inlay video? I'm curious how the process differs with that material and have a project in mind for it already!
You are welcome; the Mother of Pearl video is scheduled for later this year. Stay tuned!- Laser Dave
@skydivinginc6588 Can you share the settings you used with the P2? I know it's the Trotec channel but that would be very helpful. Thank you!
Good job laser Dave
Incredible!
Hey that's a great idea there Dave the aluminum won't engrave away and you can clean it up works on the same Principle as doing inlays with a CNC router
Thank you! But unlike CNC, so much more detail is possible using lasers!
This is flat-out brilliant. I ran out and snagged some 2.5” tape and a roller at Lowe’s to test it out. Worked like an absolute charm. Any concerns about toxicity or damage to the laser from burning the adhesive? Definitely had an odor, but I’m not actually sure of the composition.
I’m glad to hear you’re pleased with this process! As long as your laser system is equipped with a reliable exhaust setup, there will be no concerns regarding toxicity or potential damage to the laser from burning the adhesive.
@@TrotecLaser Appreciate that! I’ve got a good exhaust fan/ventilation set-up so I should be all right. I may track down MSDS info just to be absolutely safe, but I’ll keep playing around in the meantime. It’s a wonderful technique. Thanks so much for sharing it!
Titebond III is a polyvinyl acetate (PVA)-based adhesive that also contains cross-linking agents and proprietary additives to enhance its waterproof properties. When exposed to high heat from a laser, the following thermal decomposition products may be released:
• Formaldehyde - A known irritant and potential carcinogen that can cause respiratory irritation, watery eyes, and throat discomfort.
• Acetic Acid - Can cause mild respiratory and eye irritation.
• Carbon Monoxide (CO) - A toxic gas that can reduce oxygen transport in the blood, leading to headaches, dizziness, and nausea.
• Nitrogen Oxides (NOx) - Potential respiratory irritants that can contribute to lung inflammation and exacerbate conditions like asthma.
• Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) - These may include uncharacterized proprietary chemicals used in Titebond III’s formulation, which could result in additional irritants when burned.
Long-Term Health Risks:
• Chronic exposure to formaldehyde is linked to an increased risk of nasal and lung cancers.
• Prolonged inhalation of VOCs and combustion byproducts can contribute to neurological and respiratory issues.
Needless to say - In absence of a complete ventilation system that includes proper filtration for vapor abatement, avoid using Titebond III (wet or cured) in conjunction with laser cutting or engraving.
Very good. Thank you.
Our pleasure!
Amazing!
Thank you! Cheers!
Woah! Can't wait to try this. 🤯 *orders alu tape
Hope you like it! Enjoy
Love it❤
Crazy Cool!
daNGIT MAN!!! you wizard 🧙♂! ima wiz too 🧙♂, luv creating new process and finishes!!! and thiz video right here gave me a chubby for a laser machine, now ima gonna have to buy me one... PROBLEM IS... im in brasil.
✆ +55 48 3052 3322
✉ amanda@jrlaser.com.br
🌎 www.jrlaser.com.br
🖈
Rua Antonio Hulse, Sala B 2860 Bairro: Revoredo CNPJ: 10:209.525/0001-95, Tubarão (SC), BR
That's badass!
Thank YOU!!!
Loved the video. I am wondering if this process would work on a diode laser. I have a 40w.
This process should work with any laser that will produce depth into the woods, and a diode laser should have no issues doing this.
Thanks
You are very welcome!
Brilliant contribution! Would you also provide a link or links for the cutting surface and the roll holder both seen at the 3:00 minute mark? Thanks!
Thank you! Here is the link to the tape roller: a.co/d/2Qno682 and the cutting mat: a.co/d/aq9smAA
Love this and can't wait to try it. it's been on my list to try for a while now. I have 2 questions for you or anyone who has been using this method.
1. Wood grain direction. Any thoughts on if the direction makes a difference? ie. same for base wood and veneer or if a different orientation would be better/worse
2. For the veneer, does it matter which side you stick to the foil tape? I would think the 'top' would be cleaner so it should be stuck to the foil so it will be up in the final product. thoughts?
Grain direction significantly impacts the final look, so use your judgment based on colors, patterns, and design. With experience, you’ll identify what works best. I recommend adhering the cleanest veneer side to the foil, as this will be visible in the finished inlay. If imperfections exist, keep that side facing up to avoid showcasing them. - Laser Dave
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
ok. Talk about blowing me away.
I agree. I developed it, and it blew my mind, too; I still cannot believe this is possible. I'm so happy you like it!
Sweet
So Sweet!
I need to get some vineer wood! I want to try this. I suspect I can do the same thing with thicker woods as well though- I'll start experimenting with what I have. that foil hack was an awesome idea! I've just got a couple diodes- 10/20w- some Day CO2, I'm coming for ya!
Awesome, have fun!
Really wish Lightburn would have an Invert setting so I could do this on my OmTech
It does. Just place a box around the design and it will provide you a reverse image file. Good luck.
Magnificent
Thank you!!!
This is absolutely amazing!!! Woooow!! It's the most beautyful work I've seen in a long time... Do you thing it's possible on acrylic?
Thank you so much for shearing your knowledge
Thank you! I'm delighted to hear that you're pleased with it. Regarding using acrylic, it should theoretically be compatible; however, sanding could be a bit tricky. That said, it’s definitely worth exploring! I'll conduct a few tests to gauge its performance, though I haven’t tried it just yet. I’ve got some techniques in mind that could make it work, but it may require a bit of experimentation. -- Laser Dave.
@@TrotecLaser Cool... first of all I'll do this, hahahaha... I'll have time to experiments later... 😋
I did wonder if it would work with a diode laser. Anyway, this looks very interesting. Thank you
I'm about to try it.
of course it will
Great Techniques and thanks for sharing!!! How thick is the veneer you are using? Also, when I double burn the veneer the shown foil is very resinous, have you try to clean it as well before gluing? Does it loosen the saved parts of the veneer inlays? I am going to try slowing the speed down on the veneer engraving to see if I can make it through to the foil on first attempt to eliminate more of the resin.. Also what do you think if one uses an 1 1/2" lens? Thanks again and keep raising the bar!!!!
Yes, it is possible to clean it, and It did not loosen the parts in my tests, but because this is the back side you are seeing, cleaning the veneer was found unnecessary as the engraved side will not be seen. No reflection issues were present when processing the aluminum because it is perfectly flat, causing any reflection to only reflect back into the laser tube, making it harmless. I am using standard traditional veneer thicknesses around 0.015 -0.024". The 1.5" lens will allow for even better detail in this video! Because most have a 2.0" lens, that is the one I decided to showcase in the video, but you are correct that a 1.5"lens is a great option.
Thanks again for such an exciting new technique. My first attempt using plywood failed because the glued veneer pulled away with the aluminum tape. I repeated the steps with hardwood and it worked perfectly. I don't know if the plywood I used was MDF core but I'm guessing that the engineered core of the plywood was too friable for this technique. Does that seem right? Plywood is desirable for both cost and availability of larger pieces. Any other thoughts?
As long as you give the glue time to dry, it should work on plywood. However, I did not attempt this in any plywood. Something I did not mention in the video is that because the aluminum blocks out the air, I found that it caused the glue to take longer than expected to dry on larger surface engravings, which may cause your issue. So, if you are unsure, let it sit overnight before you pull the aluminum to be sure that the glue has cured, I let one example sit over 4 days over the long Fourth of July weekend, and the aluminum still peeled up perfectly. - Laser Dave
I’ll try giving it much longer to dry, then. Thanks for being so responsive to questions. Can’t wait to see the mother-of-pearl lesson!
Would this technique work for a diode laser?
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure. - Laser Dave
Wow.
I suppose if you wanted to you could do a multiple layer process that you could do multiple laser and inlay steps with different colours then end up with a full coloured picture but that would take more hours to do than would be feasible to charge for
You are correct! I have actually done this!! After the first inlay is complete, the foil is peeled (before sanding). If you need/want additional colors, place the now inlaid wood sheet back into the laser and engrave it again with a file that engraves a different location, then repeat the process with additional veneer colors. This takes far more time, but the results are breathtaking; I have been working on some "example projects" I will show in future videos. Trying to make a "full-color photo" could work with a Red, Green, and Blue stained veneer by separating any photo into its separate RGB colors, making three files, then converting each to black and white black, and then inlaying them using this method. Still, I am unsure how this would look. - Laser Dave
Great info!!
How deep was the initial engraving ( wood and veneer)????????
This varied based on the species of wood used. Most of the veneer used was a traditional thickness of around 0.0010 to 0.015", and I engraved the base wood to about that same depth with some initial testing. Measure the thickness of the veneer you buy, then do an engraving test to make sure that the engraving matches that thickness.
@@TrotecLaser Dave Thanks. I also download the files!!! Thank you so much. Question do I need to mirror the 'neg' file? or is ready to engrave on the veneer?
@@TrotecLaser Dave, I have another question. The positive should be run on 'fill' correct? when I opened your file it was on 'line'
@@TrotecLaser Hi Dave me back again. I use lighBurn, when I import your file into the program, it shows a huge # of lines. The preview makes no sense!
I am not familiar with Lightburn. The main file is just a black-and-white image. Then, you take that same image and mirror and Invert it so that it is a perfect inverted and mirrored image of the original to engrave on the foil backed veneer. If you are unsure how to do this in Lightburn, then you will need to seek help from users of lighburn or from the company that makes it. Mirroring and inverting are common features that all graphic software can do. - Laser Dave
Hi Dave, would this method work with Diode laser ?
Thanks
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave
Great ideas Dave. Could you use a piece of aluminum foil sprayed with adhesive instead of purchasing an entire roll of 12 inch aluminum tape?
This may be possible, but it will depend on the adhesive used; however, I would not recommend it. If the adhesive used is too "Sticky," the veneer will not peel away correctly after the glue has dried, making the final steps far more work, or it will not work at all. If the adhesive used is not "Sticky enough," it will not hold the tiny details correctly before the parts are inlaid together, causing the parts to fall away from the aluminum during the gluing process. This ducting aluminum tape seems perfect based on what it is typically designed for (industrial metal ducting). You can buy much smaller rolls at a much lower price and then use more than one piece on larger sheets of veneer to save on cost. The foil link provided offers many different sizes starting at $18.88 for the 3" wide roll, or you can also pick this material up at most hardware stores. - Laser Dave
Hi,Dave,The detail of the laser engraving is especially stunning. What I would like to ask is: what is the finest line thickness in the file so that the lines are preserved after laser engraving.
This will depend on a few things, such as what lens is being used and the material or wood species being later processed, as this can vary based on how each material can handle laser heat in addition to the laser parameters and the engraving resolution all factor into pushing this limit. I find that engraving is the easy part; it is the reverse engraving of the foil of the veneer that can be an issue, and the thinnest line that I was able to achieve using very tight grain wood (best case scenario) was a minimum line weight of 0.005" with a 2.0" lens kit and 0.003" with a 1.5" lens kit- Laser Dave
I feel stupid not thinking of this. But every genius solution come obvious once discovered🎉
I just started making inlays with my Atomstack 70 watt diode laser and it works amazing but I highly doubt that this guy is the founder of this idea. It's just common sense really.
@1976ClassicCelica - Thank you for sharing your experience with inlays and your Atomstack 70-watt diode laser-it’s always great to hear about others exploring laser technology. Regarding your doubt about my role in developing this process, I’d like to clarify. While the concept may seem "intuitive" once seen, I can guarantee that I pioneered this inlay method over 20 years ago, refining it through the years with innovation and more than 30,000 operational hours with lasers. I’ve worked hard to share my expertise and help the laser community grow, and I’m glad it’s inspiring others to experiment with their own machines. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser Have you implemented a third layer into any designs? I can only think to complete the first inlay process, align the piece into the laser cutter and redo an additional layer on top. This could further improve intricacy, but I'm not sure how to nail alignment for the second veneer engraving.
Try using colored uv resin then repeating the first step to remove what you don't want. I'm sure the results would be stunning and be faster.
You are correct; that is another option for an inlay-like effect shown in another video (th-cam.com/video/MiefiXxMdEY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bxU2_UHAZUPzqRL). However, UV resin inlay will produce a completely different look. Inlayed natural wood veneer into wood produces a look that cannot be reproduced any other way, and real inlay has a much higher perceived value for not much more time, creating a better ROI. However, you get to choose the effect you want to see!
Imagine doing this for a floor. A pain I the ass but dear God.
That would be impressive, as a large mosaic on some wooden floor tiles! 🤩 I would like to see that! - Laser Dave
amazing work! would work with thin inlay , 0.6mm?
This process will work with this thickness with no problem.
Thankyou! Would you let the tenner sit a little bit proud above the surface when sticking it down?
Please Clarify?
Does the laser operation need any compensation due to the kerf of the laser beam or is really as simple as engraving an inverted mirror image?
No kerf compensation is needed since this is not cut but engraved; the video shows every step of the process.
How thin are the lines that can be achieved with this technique? 1/32ndths ..? smaller?
You can go much smaller than 1/32 (0.031"). This will depend on your brand of laser, the laser lens you use, and the species and thickness of the wood veneer; with the ideal scenario using the best lens, the best I achieved that was confirmed and measured inlay lines as small as 0.0065."
@@TrotecLaser Wow, Well that gives me some tests to aim for anyway. Guess i'll find out. Jtech 24w is my laser. Thanks
can this be done with a falcon 2 40w diode lazer and lightburn software
I believe this process should be possible. However, I cannot be sure as we are Trotec, and this process was developed on our lasers.
I have the same laser... did you try it?
What's the theory on why this works better than the old method with tape?
I've used that method in the past and it worked great.
The tape method was much more complicated and inconsistent. While it did work, any changes in the density of the wood veneer caused the laser to engrave through the tape, compromising stability. Additionally, the tape's lack of rigidity made positioning the veneer harder, and finishing was far more labor-intensive. This new method eliminates all these issues. The aluminum is more rigid, allowing for better alignment; it cannot be engraved by the laser, unlike the tape, which makes alignment and cleanup much faster. As a result, this method improves detail and total process time while improving the fine details, making the updated method far more reliable for consistent production.
@@TrotecLaser thank you. Trotec is my endgame machine, but it's properly overkill for a hobby shop.
one day!
Is there a supplier in Canada that sells these wood products.
Unfortunately, I do not know of a supplier in Canada for laser-grade exotic woods. Please contact our offices in Canada, and they can help guide you on this. (800) 663-1149
'will fit perfectly' (5:40) - what about the laser kerf? And the thickness of glue?
The process is engraved positively and negatively, not cut like a traditional inlay, so the laser beam diameter is not a factor. The inverted and positive states compensate for each other, leaving a perfect fit because of a factor called laser divergence; because of this, there is no traditional way to even measure this kerf. The glue is liquid, requiring no visual space, and it dries clear. If I were to assign a "Kerf" for the glue based on what I can see under a high-powered microscope, it would be about 5 microns or 0.000197" at 30x magnification.
Lightburn can account for the laser kerf. But that might be the limiting factor for small details
@@ColinWatters I think he relies on the cut being conical. But I believe the glue acts as a filler too.
@@ColinWatters I think you may be over thinking this, because of the way that this process works, "kerf" is not something that needs to be discussed for this kind of process since there is no cutting, only engraving. Simply engrave the positive into the wood base then engrave the negative/inverted and mirrored version of your graphic into the foil backed veneer and glue them together then peel and sand after the glue dries.
Im having an issue with this technique. When i pull off the foil, it sometimes pulls off some of the inlay. It could be because my veneer is paper backed but even after about 45min of dry time it still happens. Im thinking about trying with non paper backed veneer or maybe even epoxy instead of woodglue
Use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, it will deactivate the foil adhesive temporarily. Lift up one side and drip it in there, the alcohol will form a meniscus along the peel line.
Try peeling back at 180 deg to minimize lifting.
Adjust your kerf so the inlay is a tight press fit
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that the foil can block airflow, which may significantly increase curing time. To address this, simply allow more time for curing and consider using a higher-quality glue for better results. - Laser Dave
@TrotecLaser which glue would you recommend? I'm using titebond interior+exterior
The links for all the products used in the video, including the glue, are in the video description.
Update: The alcohol trick worked really well. I also found that instead of lifting the foil, If it spin it counterclockwise or clockwise and slide it off, the veneer won't come off. The sticky residue however has a bit more opportunity to sink into the grain though so be aware especially if you are inlaying into plywood because you'll have to do a decent amount of sanding
What photo editing software would you recommend - any tips?
I used CorelDRAW for the photo conversion shown in the video. I have also done this in Adobe PhotoShop. If you download the CorelDraw files using the video link, the instructions in that photo file show you what settings were used. - Laser Dave
Wow! I can’t imagine how much mess I would get in to doing this…
But it is such a satisfying mess!
That is great! Does it only cut wood or also brass etc.? 😊
I know it does sandwiches really good!😋😁
CO2 lasers excel at cutting only "combustible" materials such as wood, plastics, papers, fabrics and leathers, and so much more; they aren’t suited for cutting non-combustible materials like metals, stone, or glass. However, these materials can still be beautifully engraved with precision, allowing for detailed customization and marking without compromising on quality.
Amazing, i'm wondering how i can do this on a diode laser due to the aluminium.
As we do not make or sell a diode laser, you must test this to see if it will work for you.
@@TrotecLaser Trying it right now with blue tape instead of aluminium, thanks.
@GaryMcKinnonUFO Well, how did it turn out?
@@insideout144 Lens dirty, waiting for cleaning fluid to arrive.
Can we use normal aluminium foil from the kitchen and use double side tape to make that if i dont have the aluminium tape?
This will depend on the "Tackiness" of the double-sided tape, I have not tried this, but it should work.
impressive... do you sell in europe ?
We are made in Austria!Contact
✆ +43 7242 239 7777
✉ austria@troteclaser.com
🌎 www.troteclaser.com
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Freilinger Strasse 99, Marchtrenk, AT
Did he say he's LASER DAVE?!
Yes, "Laser Dave"!
out of curiosity, does the laser engrave straight down to create a negative with vertical sides? Is the depth of engraving just a tad smaller than the thickness of the veneer so that it sits almost flush or do they match and thus flush? Someone mentioned divergence, what part does that play? (I don't own a laser cutter)
Laser beams are not perfectly straight. They diverge in the shape of an hourglass until they reach the focal point, and because of this, there is a very slight angle only really noticed when cutting thick parts. In this example, that small amount of divergence, when engraved as a positive and negative, fills in any gaps or kerf, and this benefits us by giving a flush finish with this kind of detail.
Why is pricing not shown on the Trotec website?
Unlike consumer-grade products, our systems are designed for commercial and industrial applications, requiring a personalized approach to ensure optimal performance for your specific needs. As these are high-end, configurable systems, we recommend working closely with one of our technical sales experts to determine the best solution for your application. Our systems start at $8,500 for the Speedy 50 model and scale upwards depending on configuration.
Is there something special needed in the laser cutter to protect the co2 laser from shining onto the reflective aluminium?
Rest assured, any excess energy will safely follow the path of the laser beam and will not pose any risk, provided the surface is kept flat. This design ensures that the energy remains controlled, protecting both the equipment and surroundings.
@TrotecLaser is this the case for all types of co2 lasers, or only this special model
While this process should operate similarly on any CO₂ laser, including other brands, we can only officially certify compatibility and performance with Trotec machines.
Would it be possible to map an inlay (cut flat) onto a curved and ralered object? Can the software compensate for the objects geometry?
Our system is compatible with a rotary accessory, enabling it to engrave on cylindrical objects. While this process is well-suited for such applications, it would not be effective for engraving on a sphere.
Thanks very much for the reply. I'm slightly unsure what the definitive answer is though. Imagine a small wooden cone. I know I can engrave its surface with a rotary attachment and I know that I can laser a flat sheet of veneer using the method in this video. The thing I'm stuck on is how to ensure that the material cut from flat veneer will line up perfectly with the engraving on a curved (in this example, conical) object. Any help hugely appreciated!
What you’re proposing is not something we’ve previously attempted, and the varying conical diameter introduces a level of complexity that will require careful consideration. Using our rotary attachment, we can adjust the angle of the rotary to account for the taper. By utilizing an average diameter of the conical object, the digital artwork can be designed to appear flat, ensuring the corresponding engraved veneer also lays flat. This approach should theoretically work, but it will require testing to confirm its feasibility. - Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser Really appreciate your thoughts on this. I'll send you a message as I'd love to give this a go, trouble shoot and refine so that I can add it to my workflow. Thanks again.
Does anyone have an idea of how possible this might be with a galvo fiber laser 1064nm?
Some woods can be cut with fiber laser, but the precision of the alignment is what I wonder about.
The fact that the laser beam is not perpendicular to the bed of the laser at all points would make this difficult except on very small designs.
Most woods cannot be laser processed with the 1064 fiber laser; this application requires the CO2 laser wavelength *(10.6um)to work correctly.
@@DrgnSlyr Thank you. I did a visualization and I see what you mean.
Would this process work on an XTool P2 Co2 laser??
This should be possible depending on the engrave settings you use. It will be slow, but technically, it should work; however, I do not use a diode laser, so I cannot be sure; start out small and try, and let me know! -Laser Dave
@@TrotecLaser the P2 is a 55w C02
Doing this process with the P2 atm. Will check in with results
Do you sell a desktop laser capable of this? I don’t have the space for a floor model.
Yes, we do; our Speedy 50 or Speedy 100 is perfect for this precision process in a small package at a very affordable price. Could you email me directly, and I will get you a quote. david.stevens@troteclaser.com. - Laser Dave
Can you use a fiber laser for this?
This process will not work with a fiber laser; the fiber laser wavelength will not work with wood.
@@TrotecLaser What about a 20w diode laser?