Attila Asztalos I once looked up what "biweekly" means, because no one seems to know what a fortnight is anymore. Turns out it means "every two weeks" AND "twice a week". Useless word.
Is that not just poor usage? I thought the bi- prefix usually signified "every two", while the semi- prefix signified "twice per". I may be wrong though. It's been many a year since I was in school.
Just as tip from someone who used to be super obsessed with computer hardware: Fan brands make a huge difference. Arctic is pretty good, but if you really want quiet and long lasting, go for Noctua. Also, the bigger diameter the fan, the quieter it’s gonna be. Noctua sells a 200mm fan that has integrated anti-vibration pads as well as included cables, adapters, 4pin connector for PWM control, and loads of other extra bits and pieces.
just adding onto this if someone wants to try this: Op is 100% correct, but I’d urge you to spend the little more money for a noctua industrial series fan, they are just as good but a bit more rugged and therefore better fit for the Job imo
I want to clarify something about the warning of using automotive antifreeze. It's not that it can't work, or definitely will damage the cooler. It's that there are a lot of different formulations out there, some of which might damage it. Either HTP could spend millions of dollars exhaustively testing every single antifreeze on the market and produce a list of compatible ones, or instead say that if you put something unapproved and untested in there, it's not their fault if it breaks.
It would be nice if products came with totally complete specifications like also the rubber materials for the O-rings. That way you can check for yourself the chemical compatibility with automotive coolant types.
Hey Tony, I agree with you about unnecessary shop noise, and wish my Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT shut off the fans between welds. However, I built my own cooler so this put me in charge of its noise. Aside from the usual carbonator pump, bypass regulator and motor shaft mods for the fan (same blade you have), I used a Sparkfun MicroView (Arduino compatible) microcontroller to manage it. It watches in/out temps & torch flow rate and turns off the motor when the torch is cool after welding. It also inhibits the foot switch command to the welder unless flow is OK. So far, I'm thrilled with it cuz my shop is quieter! I also had some uncommon chemical problems that were solved by outstanding support from StarBrite, the makers of Miller TIG coolant, so I'm a lifetime customer. By the way, I put an argon pressure switch in the command circuit so I "never" try to weld without gas coverage. I feel smarter already! Keep up the great work and even greater puns. You keep me ROFL
I interviewed for a job at USA Weld. Jeff is a great guy. USA Weld is a small operation. Jeff works pretty hard with just a few other people to keep things going strong.
Tony, I watched all of your videos in order recently and rarely ever comment anywhere, but had to say: You make the best videos on TH-cam. I watch all the normal DIY/CNC/machining/fab channels and love watching them but when that notification says "This Old Tony Posted..." I literally stop what I am doing, get a fresh cup of coffee, turn off the alarms on all the CNCs and close my door to watch. Most of the others are 'background noise' while I program, but the nuances and annotations require and deserve my full attention. Just amazing and entertaining videos. Thank you for the work, thought and incredible amount of time you spend making these!!
@@secretninja35 - Same concept as phons (i.e., perceived loudness), and even defined by the same guy, except one scale is linear and the other is exponential (1 sone = 40 phons, and doubling the number of sones adds 10 phons).
Tony - I would have put the temperature sensor on the cold line. You shouldn't care how hot the hot is, only how cold the cold is. Suppose, for extremes, the cooler was sitting in an ice bath. Water going in might be 50'c, but water going out, and to the torch, is perhaps 15'c. That's fine, no need to turn on that fan. You only turn it on when the cool side can't be as cool as you want it to be anymore. Also, for minimum fan noise you want the largest blades possible. 4 small fans are far noisier than 1 large fan for the same air volume I believe. And, you could hook up a variable voltage to the fans so that they're nice and quiet (lower voltage = spin slower = quieter) until needed. Running a 12v fan at 9v makes it much quieter without being much weaker. Just my two cents. Interesting build.
+1 to all of that. I would definitely use a larger, single fan. The only thing I would add to your comment is that there are temperature based fan controllers that automatically adjust the fan speed (PWM voltage) as necessary. I would use one of those, and either put the temp probe on the outlet of the radiator or on the cold side line. Putting it on the outlet side of the radiator assumes that the fan controller is always driving the fans at least at low speed.
I'm going to muse over that monitoring of hot vs. cool for a bit. I'm upgrading my CNC router to be water cooled and have not yet placed the temperature transducer. Originally I wanted to monitor how hot it got so I could react to that condition. But what would monitoring how cold it got do for my information gathering? Noodle, noodle... As far as fan size goes, I guess it depends on if it sits on your desk...wait a larger fan moving faster makes much more noise. They had that problem with fighters. The outer tips of the fan is where the noise happens. Then there is total surface area of the air moved. A single fan would have less useless surface area then four small fans, but we're back to that speed thing. Noodle, noodle...
in a setup like this I'd bet the temperature delta isn't that high, so it doesn't really matter where you place the sensor. It's safer putting it on the hot side because it will respond to heat building up faster. larger fans are generally quieter for a given air flow, significantly less wasted space.
Ya, larger cooling fans. But if you move to high speed fans, the tips can approach the speed of sound and you end up with that issue. The larger the fan, for a given speed, the faster that fan tip goes, and the more sound generated. But at these speeds, I don't think the sound curve is there.
I agree, you want the sensor on the output line, or if possible just put it in the water reservoir. Typically those sensors are potted, and thus waterproof. The main goal is preventing the water going to the torch from being too hot. Also, great video!!!
You could rewire it, so that you have one (or two) fans running continuously and the other two connected to the switching system. You could even set up an internal switch so you could switch the two pairs, so that one set isn't running all the time. Nice mod.
We were modding a Cessna 182 windshield and one was drilling between the door on the 'A' pillar...Looked exactly like the same thing :-), but for real, and 100LL aircraft fuel. Who would have thought the fuel line ran there from the wing to the engine? And of course, the boss comes out smoking his cigarette, "why does it smell like fuel in here? And what is this 10' puddle on the floor?"
@@vwertix1662 3 dB is a doubling of SPL or signal amplitude. I think 6 dB more SPL and 10 dB line amplification is double perceived sound, or maybe the reverse. I've read 6 dB and 10 dB before and remember having an "Aha!" moment about why there were two different answers, but I'm not sure which was what.
So with fans bigger is always better. One big fan will push far more air far quieter than 4 small fans of a similar size. Always go as big as you can, giggity. The downsides being reliability, if one fan breaks you're looking at 75% cooling vs 0% cooling, and how uniform the airflow is which won't matter to pretty much anyone. Fan noise is mostly related to fan rotation speed, a 200mm fan might rotate at 300rpm vs a 100mm fan at 3000 rpm. That's the difference between putting your ear against it in a silent room and having a constant hum. If you can't change the size, more fans at a slower rotation is also a good way to go. My computer would have 8 fans, for example, all turning barely above their stall speed. That makes it absolutely silent in the dead of night with my ear against it. It also means when a fan died 2 years ago I've still not needed to get a new one and the sound is still very very quiet. Also quality makes a difference, mostly for noise. The airflow is less of a factor but there is a slight difference. Arctic fans are poor quality. The main difference is in bearing type. The bearings your fan has are sleeve bearings, very quiet at first but quickly rubs away the oil and becomes the noisiest. Ball bearings start off louder but are pretty consistent and are a great choice for anything but very light usage or regular replacements. Sleeve bearings are the cheapest. Fluid dynamic bearings (FDB) are the best of both worlds, using clever engineering to use an oil bearing but not lose effectiveness. Because the technique is patented it has a significant cost increase but they are my favourite. Non patent editions exist like rifle bearings but vary in performance usually just wanting the FDB market but with sleeve performance. Finally the fan shape makes a difference. Stepping away from the super intricate details and selling points, the important facet is the size of the blades vs the number. A higher number of small (thin) blades pushes a lot of air but can't handle pressure (restricted flow ie radiators). A lower number of large (wide) fan blades are less angled thus less flow but work far better for radiators. Large blades work with everything so are a safe bet, but if used correctly small blades can have double the flow (or more) for the same noise. A rule of thumb is larger blades for the way in to fight never-changed dust filters radiators and the intended overpressure, smaller blades on the way out as the air should be pressurised and already running out with nothing to resist it. Sometimes you'd want large blades for both like front and back of a radiator. Small blades for both is rarer. There you have the crash course in fans, more than you'd ever want to know.
Bigger = quieter is true wisdom for equivalent voltage electric fans. You’ll get a lower RPM for a given voltage. For fans that share a motor shaft that’s doing other stuff, it’s less clear. Given sufficient torque, if he swapped out the stock fan on that motor for a bigger one it would actually be louder. When the RPMs stay constant, bigger = louder. (just adding some color on mechanically-driven fans)
It’s a year late, but might I suggest fans with mag-lev bearings in them. I grabbed some Corsair ones for my rig and they’re fucking amazing. Actually, Corsair might have a patent on that and I don’t know if anyone else makes them but still, they’re amazing.
@@Yomom12388 Yea, I'm a little dated on fan technology to be honest. When I last looked the hydrodynamic bearings were the new hotness, and tons of companies were installing fakes to avoid paying on royalties. They didn't seem to understand the principle of them, though. Maglev in theory sounds perfect, but in reality the bearing noise is typically a very small part of the noise. The much worse is the fan shaping, turbulence, and the pressure wave interactions between fans and struts. Those get far worse with fan speed though so more and bigger is still always the solution.
@@roippi3985 My argument is more for equal cooling requirements, bigger and more is quieter. After all the cooling requirements are the constant we cannot change. Fan voltage, RPM speeds, and everything of that nature is merely a consequence of cooling requirements and help understand the trend rather than a variable we are free to change.
@UnknownPlayer I mean I work in physics so I didn't need a whole lot of research for it all. Its something I did a while back, it would have irritated me if I did it wrong. I'm glad it has helped people understand cooling more, it seems an area which isn't explored very well so a lot of people seem to be completely lost regarding the best strategies.
@@@ClaudeSac Well I suppose you are right. Although if you send it back they could say "Thank You, you can have your freeness back" 3 months since I watched this video I can't remember what part of the project was free :)
@@DavoShed Bwahahahaha!! I am appalled that this certain thread didn't get a lot more pooping your pants/p'ing yourself actions converted into verbal responses here!
Just for future reference Noctua make the best fans for low noise high performance and reliability. the NF-F12's are basically the best PC fans on the market.
Who thought that 2 shades of turd brown was a good colour for a fan? Like yeah, they're in my case, sure, but I can still see the pastel poo fan blades spinning.
17:52 The PC fans with more blades are generally optimised for airflow rather than static pressure. IIRC, you want fans that are optimised for static pressure when pushing air into a heatsink or radiator.
Yeah but I think the original fan also isn't really optimized for static pressure, because its completely loose inside the enclosure so it probably doesnt create much pressure. I think the radiator surface area makes up for that.....
It depends on both the fan and the radiator. Sure, a normal cpu radiator needs a pressure-optimized fan because its fins are so close together. This radiator here doesn't really need that because the fins are what, 5-10 times further apart compared to a standard cpu cooler, maybe more. And you can take that even further, look at audio equipment and such with radiators that don't need a fan, their fins are often more than 1cm apart (and much thicker for some reason)
I do not have that stc-1000 but I do use a PID that is similar and at least on the one I own all of those parameters can be changed. Though to find out what can be changed and how to change it I had to go digging through the internet as nothing was included with the device. It may be an industry standard to make these devices as cryptic and mysterious as possible.
Aaron Anderson Well that whole time the water is still transferring heat to the cooler, and when you consider the duty cycle the minute wait shouldn't really be detrimental overall. My only concern is whether or not the pc fans move enough volume of air compared to the stamped fan it came with. They'll only move about 200cfm combined whereas the original probably moved several times more air.
I think the delay will be a problem , a Tig torch running at 200+ amps generates A LOT of heat and one minute is a good deal of temp rise before the fan finally kicks on. The only way I see him being able to get by with that would be if the thermal mass of the water can absorb that much energy without significant temp rise in a minute, but I don't know how much water that thing holds and I don't know the exact amount of heat a torch generates so It would be a wild ass guess. Anyways I'm sure there is a way he can configure the delay to be less, that would be an odd restriction.
Got me good when the water came back through that freshly drilled hole Tony geeze! Course I knew better, but still very funny and informative so thanks! There is no better way to learn than with humor😉 it’s proven.
Hey Tony, those F12 case fans have an external PWM input signal that is used to vary the speed of the fan. I'd recommend buying a PC case fan controller that has an external thermistor and PWM fan control. Or you could just whip something up with and Arduino. Bang-bang temp control is ugly and noisy... *Correction* later in the video I see those are 3 wire, not 4 wire, so no PWM input. You can still vary the speed of 3 wire fans with PWM, but the control isn't as fine-grained as 4 wire (2 of the wires are power, 1 is tachometer feedback, 1 is PWM input).
Three wires do give you PWM control; four wires have an encoder that returns data *from* the fan, to give feedback to the controller (tells it how fast the fan is actually turning).
@@BradHedges no, you got it backwards. 3 wire fans report rpm, the 4th wire is for speed control (all PWM fans have rpm reporting, at least for PC style fans). We could discuss why all pc fans with PWM also have rpm signal (it's the economy... ), but it doesn't matter - the industry standard says the 3rd wire is RPM signal, and the 4th wire (if it's there) is PWM RPM control.
Nice video! The STC-1000 is extensively used in homebrewing to turn on a fridge when the fermenting beer gets too hot (or turn on a heating element when the beer gets too cold!). Too bad the delay time is 1 minute. An arduino solution would've been better, but the line voltage fan would be the most ideal option. Thanks for the video
Being extremely new to the idea of learning how to weld, I will say that I never knew such a beast existed. Having seen this and having a rather lengthy computer tinkering background, I can tell you that this is not much more than a water cooling setup for a computer on steroids. I am relatively certain that one of these can be built from scratch, that would move water more efficiently, and quietly for a fraction of the price. The build that I would be referring to most likely would not work too well in most professional environments, but for the weekend warrior, like I am hoping to become, it would be more than adequate. But with this being gifted to you, you definitely can not beat the price of free. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!
Nice clip, well done! In my job i'm constructing lots of heating and cooling control systems, mostly as a retrofit as you did here. Some remarks: The thermo couple is getting cooled by the windchill from the fans, so it should be insulated to get a reliable measurement. Use a controler with two relais, one for the fans and the 2nd one for temperature alarm. Wire the 2nd one to the existing buzzer. Use normal instead of destilled water if you don't have the recommended antifreeze. If there is any aluminum in the waterlines, it will corrode immediately. The copper in the heat exchanger also doesn't like destilled water, but it will last longer than aluminum. And i have to agree to my preposter: If you have the time, fun and passion - and you don't get a cooler for free - it's really easy and cheap to build. Last but not least: If you are a technical freak, use an analog output on the controler and variable speed fans 😂
Cool. I didn't know Hypertext Transfer Protocol could be used for cooling or welding. Wow. Virtually unreal. Now, about HTTPS:// ... Also, the Lambourghini dealer asked me to tell you that they're not sending you a car for Christmas... They're afraid you'll make it into a tractor.
I have a similar controller and this applies: Long press power 5 seconds to enter the main menu settings, press the + - toggle P0 ... P8. Press set to store. 5 seconds of no key activity exits settings menu. Code Code Description Setting range P0 Cooling /Heating C/H P1 Hysteresis setting 0.5-15 P2 Highest setting upper limit 110 P3 Lowest setting upper limit -50 P4 Calibration +7-7 P5 Delay start time 0-10 Minutes P6 High temp alarm 0-110 To restore the factory settings in run state, long press + and -. Mine isn't identical but maybe they have the same or similar settings? It appears yours is set at 3 degrees for P1 (Hysteresis). Thanks for the video.
With this type of info (useful info for those with that particular product,) I recommend you find out your controller exactly, find the main discussion site/forum for that particular controller and share this info there. You will save countless hours in Google searching for some poor souls out there.
I ve been watching ur vids for a while now but, is it just me or when did ur sense of humor become so colorful...I enjoy all ur content serious or not..taking apart stuff is all I ever wanted to do in life. U are truly inspiring Tony.
I'm a mechanical engineer who specializes in refrigeration and hydronics. You answered my first question about motor cooling at the end. Second question why not insulate thermocoupling we usually sweat a piece of pipe on for it to slide in and wrap to avoid external temp. to affect it. But I love your video and will be doing similar project from scratch. Sorry htp. You do have great products it's just I have my own production shop and will be making a chiller style torch cooler. Keep up the great work.
Had a car one time that made wind noise thru the drivers window. Drove me crazy. Took it back to the dealer and guess what he said? Well, just turn up the radio....Maybe you need a bigger radio.
"I don't want to end up with the music in me..." Emerson reference...." Most men live lives of quiet desperation and die with the music still in them."
@@tehrater480 - Actually, it's neither, although it's frequently (mis)attributed to Thoreau (never saw it attributed to Emerson before). It's actually from Oliver Wendell Holmes' The Voiceless: _"Alas for those that never sing, but die with all their music in them."_
I take umbrage at un needed fan noise. So in 1991 my 1990 ish Millermatic 250 got a thermoswitch glued to the transformer. Awesomest mod! The fan never ran unless I was really welding something stout. I was pretty conservative on the temp. Around 100˚ F. I did the same thing a couple years ago to a cheap chinesium VFD. For a little device, it made a bunch of annoying noise that I didn't want to hear. A themoswitch got jammed between fins on the heat sink. This time I added a 500 Ω resistor across the thermoswitch which passed enough current to run the fan at low, near silent speed. The VFD is on my lathe. If I run it for some time or load it warms up enough the fan will come on full. When you stop the lathe it goes right back off after a minute. Yay.
The rotating cooler pushing the 2.5 ⭐ review to the side was fantastic. I've seen all your videos countless times and find new things to enjoy every time I watch.
It doesn't *sound* twice as loud. The power is doubled. Has to be 10dB higher to sound twice as loud. I SAID THAT IT HAS TO BE 10dB HIGHER TO SOUND TWICE AS LOUD!!!
Corded spins faster and seems to have a lot more high pitched drivetrain noise, it's like 7500 for my cordless vs 12000 for the corded. Probably needs some grease in there
I must say, your sense of humor is awesome. How you add subtle things in your description and explanations not to mention visual effects that makes these videos very enjoyable to watch.
Great video as always Tony! 1) 3db = twice as loud. So 1 db is discernibly louder (re your angle grinders). 2) Different frequencies sound louder to the human ear even though they are the same loudness (db). So, perhaps your corded angle grinder was outputting higher frequencies which you perceive as louder. 3) Re #2 you can account for that by measuring using A-weighting on the phone if the app has it, or buy a sound level meter which has it. 4) You should be a bit more Tony when measuring your angle grinders by ensuring the noise output part (spinning disc? Motor?) is the same distance from the mic / phone (you were a bit lackadaisical on that in this video!)
Harbor freight water pump-40$ Marathon 1/2 hp motor-60$ Amazon radiator-30$ Tubing/fittings-10$ Something to hold water - probably free ..next weekend project in the works lol
bdub z Don't bother with the HF pump, it's junk (been there with my own homemade beer fermenter chiller, spend a few bucks on one meant for an RV, instead)
That HF pump isn't going to cut it, look on Craigslist for an old carbonator pump from the beverage industry. If you can get the whole assembly you'll have a decent water tank too.
Armchair Pilot the 12v harbor freight transfer pump lasted me two years of farming, I watered thousands of chickens From 55 gallon drums in the back of my pickup. So that's not bad I still have it, it works fine.
Case off it looks very very similar to a household dehumidifier (which WOULD give slushie like results since they have freon /R-134/etc in them) which are often just thrown away. I'd use a circulator pump (meant for like baseboard heating) since they are extremely reliable and designed for cycling.
TIG cooler pump is very special - it's a high pressure / low flow type. You only can find such pumps in beverage industry and they are pricey. Any other type of pump will work in less than optimal mode and will not last long.
Decibel is a logarithmic unit for measuring sound pressure, it is not a linear unit. Therefore 3db is almost doubling the perceived sound level depending on the weight filter used. Great video by the way.
Mate, you are hilarious and very informative. I'm a 48 year old Australian and find myself giggling often watching your videos. Good job 😀 Your attitude is more realistic than others.
Great vid and Mod Tony. You could maybe sit the motor up on vibration absorbing material to stop it reverberating through the chassis. Also you could press small copper pipe through the heatsink fins of the more case if the motor gets too hot.
TOT I love your video's, no face and you bring idiocracy to its best. (Mistakes that I have made in the past could have been avoided with your guidance). You show all of the mistakes that you and I have made and how to combat them. Or your show all of them so that other people can learn from them. Thank you for your time and effort. Your are so awesome. I have been needing to make a tig torch cooler for my tig for so long. I don't wanna spend the money and have been using my watercooled tig torch for ever. That being said. I just feed it with a water hose and the waste line goes out the back of my garage. Keep in mind though I just use my tig once in a blue moon. So it doesn't hurt my water bill. I would love to have this setup. Keep up the good work.
Damn, you're absolutely right. I just scribbled "1000" on my fridge's door and the temperature inside immediately dropped by 10 degrees. Thanks for the tip
I have several stc-1k units and you can set them so there is no delay between reading and triggering the relay. I think from memory it is option 3 if you hold down the set button. But you have probably already solved this or happy without changing things. Great video again
10:48 antifreeze also acts as a dielectric to help to prevent corrosion in the coolant circuit by preventing electrolytic reactions, which is one reason why it is important not to over dilute the antifreeze in your radiator.
Hey Tony, nice gift and sweet mods! BTW, don't ya just hate it when the kids pinch the lines while your trying to pull off that Instagram worthy weld....
The 1 minute delay in the thermostat is standard for fridge Compressors so you don't start them under high pressure on the discharge side. It let's the pressures equalise before the compressor starts. I bought one of these controllers for a brewing project and could not re-program it. Try a Carel controller one time you will love it. You will hate the price. But you will love it. With the fan, try induced draft next time it's probably quieter and definitely more efficient than forced draft. Induced draft causes less turbulence. Cheers Jesse.
I have a Harbor Freight parts washer I modded, that uses 2 - 5 gallon pail baffle system I designed to remove the dirt and separate the oil from the cleaning fluid. It's basically a swirl filter to remove the dirt and a septic system type baffle to remove the oil / grease. I use straight simple green and since I live in Upstate NY and don't have a full time heated garage, I run an aquarium heater set at lowest temperature (45F) in the cleaned solution pail where BTW... the I moved the pump to and leave the heater and pump running during the winter. We have had temps way below freezing and it hasn't frozen yet... With no insulation around the pails or the washer. Plus the pump is super quiet... you don't hear it run and pumps a lot of solution, I can't run it full blast without it splashing all over. I added valves to control the in and out flows based on what I want it to do... soak or wash. Now that my prototype has been working perfect, for over a year and a half, going to change it to 2 - 10 gallon pails. You could use the same setup... The parts washer uses a small submersible pump. You could use the other side of your temperature sensor, and tap off one leg of the 220 to power them. Or just run a 110 cord to power them. Once the temp gets to freezing, the heater and the pump turns on. I think I'll get that temperature control you have and and add it to my system so I don't have to leave it running 24/7 during the winter just in case it drops below freezing... We have had weird weather lately... one day 50 next day 20.
It's more likely do to the dynamic range of the phone to actually be able to receive a signal louder than that and it's also probably relate to the frequencies that each produce and the weighting of them to cal the db SPL by the phone
. Hey Tony (if that really is your name) - Love your channel, envy your skills. Not sure if someone already mentioned this: fan shrouds work to help decrease turbulence at the fan tips (which could be applied to the built-in aluminum fan) and thereby increase fluid (air) flow and reduce noise. Keep making awesome stuff!
Yea, the Db scale is logarithmic, so every time you go up 3 Db, it’s twice as loud. So yes, your corded grinder is in fact twice as loud as the cordless.
Sad to see these so-called "machinists" on their how-to TH-cam videos being considered "experts" and "professionals" and successfully suckering "beginners" into thinking they're anything but con artists.
Yea and a shroud would probably cut the decibel level as well as increasing the cooling by a noticeable amount. I will say in his defense that the fans are very quiet.
Dear "Tony" guy Can you please stop making entertaining videos of tearing stuff apart so my husband will get back to his slavery... I mean chores. Thanks Mrs. Brady
I installed a line voltage Brush-less Cooling fan on my cheapo Harbor Freight 90 Amp Welder and significantly improved the duty cycle and cooling. It was much quieter than the fan that came with it and pushed more air through the case.
Dunno if anyone already mentioned this, as this was 6 months ago and I am only now finding your channel, but the location of the radiator intake vs output makes very little difference whether it is looped back or goes to the other end. The double-back design moves less volume but stays in the rad longer, as opposed to staying in the rad slightly less time but moving more volume, resulting in pretty much the same efficiency. Love the channel, btw! Lots of neat stuff, keep up the good work!
I have absolutely no plan to do any welding in my future, but just love your channel. Great videos and the voice over is fabulous. Thanks for putting in such a ton of effort into tour videos n
had to weld tungsten carbide rods all over the place with tig, was operating consistently for hours and hours a day at 150A, we needed the water cool, and there was never any problems with it, ever.
First off: just found your channel, awesome stuff man. Love your videos. Second: Why don't you bypass the temp controller for 1 fan to provide a little cooling for the motor? Shouldn't be too hard.
I forgot to mention. I've rebuilt quite a few water coolers over the years. I can say from experience, everyone I had to work on used some sort of glycol mix that gummed up the pump and other parts. They are really messy to work on after the antifreeze turns into sludge. Changing on a regular basis would be a good idea. Pure distilled water is the way to go if you can.
Better heat transfer with pure water as well. If it gets really cold, try Arctic Diesel. :-) [No. No. No. Don't do that; it'll eat plastics and corrode copper and its alloys.]
Use Antifrogen 25 - a coolant designed for solar applications. We use it in our ultra high speed cigarette making machines for cool down our electric motors (! ) and the drives -AMK KE / KW ( !!! ) - no sludging, no corosion ...
Coolant for areas that are below freezing. WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID works great. That's what I've been using for years with a PROCOM Pump. My cooler is a homemade unit. Nonetheless, that's what I found is inexpensive and works great in all temp applications. I'm from Eastern Ontario Canada and have never had an issue with it freezing.
If you go on Newegg, you can order a fan with A TON of filters which allow you to choose: - db level - voltage - rpm - CFM (flow volume) - dimension - LEDs (ya man, get the one with LEDs) - type of bearing on fan
I don't think "annually" means what you think it means...
i had to go back and watch the video, i completely missed that joke the first time through.
...and we didn't even get to the really hard stuff like what "biennially" means...!
However, you cannot be TOO careful........ just in case.
Attila Asztalos I once looked up what "biweekly" means, because no one seems to know what a fortnight is anymore. Turns out it means "every two weeks" AND "twice a week". Useless word.
Is that not just poor usage? I thought the bi- prefix usually signified "every two", while the semi- prefix signified "twice per". I may be wrong though. It's been many a year since I was in school.
Just as tip from someone who used to be super obsessed with computer hardware: Fan brands make a huge difference. Arctic is pretty good, but if you really want quiet and long lasting, go for Noctua. Also, the bigger diameter the fan, the quieter it’s gonna be. Noctua sells a 200mm fan that has integrated anti-vibration pads as well as included cables, adapters, 4pin connector for PWM control, and loads of other extra bits and pieces.
just adding onto this if someone wants to try this: Op is 100% correct, but I’d urge you to spend the little more money for a noctua industrial series fan, they are just as good but a bit more rugged and therefore better fit for the Job imo
I'm definitely a _FAN_ of Noctua.
Also the p series are for a radiator the f is for general air movement. P series next time😊
I cant believe i just watched a 30 minute video about a torch cooler... and enjoyed every second of it!
Tuur Janssen I did, too, and I don’t even have a TIG welder, and probably never will.
i watched it expecting welding but no
Amen, and have no idea how to weld besides what I’ve seen on this channel 😂
I want to clarify something about the warning of using automotive antifreeze. It's not that it can't work, or definitely will damage the cooler. It's that there are a lot of different formulations out there, some of which might damage it.
Either HTP could spend millions of dollars exhaustively testing every single antifreeze on the market and produce a list of compatible ones, or instead say that if you put something unapproved and untested in there, it's not their fault if it breaks.
I definitely had that same thought.
Propylene glycol would be fine ;)
It would be nice if products came with totally complete specifications like also the rubber materials for the O-rings. That way you can check for yourself the chemical compatibility with automotive coolant types.
@@SE45CX what I fear is more about safety : water ions is way more conductive, glycol is not making it more conductive.
Hey Tony, I agree with you about unnecessary shop noise, and wish my Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT shut off the fans between welds. However, I built my own cooler so this put me in charge of its noise. Aside from the usual carbonator pump, bypass regulator and motor shaft mods for the fan (same blade you have), I used a Sparkfun MicroView (Arduino compatible) microcontroller to manage it. It watches in/out temps & torch flow rate and turns off the motor when the torch is cool after welding. It also inhibits the foot switch command to the welder unless flow is OK. So far, I'm thrilled with it cuz my shop is quieter!
I also had some uncommon chemical problems that were solved by outstanding support from StarBrite, the makers of Miller TIG coolant, so I'm a lifetime customer. By the way, I put an argon pressure switch in the command circuit so I "never" try to weld without gas coverage. I feel smarter already! Keep up the great work and even greater puns. You keep me ROFL
Taxes-1000 Doesn't sound cool at all Tony.
I laughed way too hard at that... touche', my friend, touche'!
Johan Froloff I
But Taxinator-1000 does sound kind of cool
Rearrange the letters and TEXAS-1000 sounds pretty darn sweet though.
if it was at the end of your yearly fiscal report: taxes-1000 ...you wouldn't hate it
I interviewed for a job at USA Weld. Jeff is a great guy. USA Weld is a small operation. Jeff works pretty hard with just a few other people to keep things going strong.
j s So you didn’t get the job?
@@PaulsMechanics Probably not; the story would've been more like "I worked at USA Weld..."
Tony, I watched all of your videos in order recently and rarely ever comment anywhere, but had to say: You make the best videos on TH-cam. I watch all the normal DIY/CNC/machining/fab channels and love watching them but when that notification says "This Old Tony Posted..." I literally stop what I am doing, get a fresh cup of coffee, turn off the alarms on all the CNCs and close my door to watch. Most of the others are 'background noise' while I program, but the nuances and annotations require and deserve my full attention. Just amazing and entertaining videos. Thank you for the work, thought and incredible amount of time you spend making these!!
Brian Carmicheal there’s only 1 bell active for me, despite being subscribed to 100+ channels
Decibels are logarithmic so one db higher is a fair bit louder.
"In terms of subjective loudness, a 1 dB change yields just over a 7% change."
If you're interested in subjective loudness you don't use dB, you use phons, which take frequency (and human perception) into account.
@@RFC-3514 I just bought a fan and it's listed in sones
@@secretninja35 - Same concept as phons (i.e., perceived loudness), and even defined by the same guy, except one scale is linear and the other is exponential (1 sone = 40 phons, and doubling the number of sones adds 10 phons).
@@RFC-3514 so 1 sone is 40 phons and 2 Sones is 50 phons? Or 110 phons? Im the big confusion
@@PlinkyVR - 2 sones = 50 phons, 4 sones = 60 phons, etc..
petition to rename the channel to “This Old Tony 1000”
forgot the dash man, not so cool
@@IRunOnE85 always leave room for improvement. thats my-motto
Tony - I would have put the temperature sensor on the cold line. You shouldn't care how hot the hot is, only how cold the cold is. Suppose, for extremes, the cooler was sitting in an ice bath. Water going in might be 50'c, but water going out, and to the torch, is perhaps 15'c. That's fine, no need to turn on that fan. You only turn it on when the cool side can't be as cool as you want it to be anymore. Also, for minimum fan noise you want the largest blades possible. 4 small fans are far noisier than 1 large fan for the same air volume I believe. And, you could hook up a variable voltage to the fans so that they're nice and quiet (lower voltage = spin slower = quieter) until needed. Running a 12v fan at 9v makes it much quieter without being much weaker. Just my two cents. Interesting build.
+1 to all of that. I would definitely use a larger, single fan. The only thing I would add to your comment is that there are temperature based fan controllers that automatically adjust the fan speed (PWM voltage) as necessary. I would use one of those, and either put the temp probe on the outlet of the radiator or on the cold side line. Putting it on the outlet side of the radiator assumes that the fan controller is always driving the fans at least at low speed.
I'm going to muse over that monitoring of hot vs. cool for a bit. I'm upgrading my CNC router to be water cooled and have not yet placed the temperature transducer. Originally I wanted to monitor how hot it got so I could react to that condition. But what would monitoring how cold it got do for my information gathering? Noodle, noodle...
As far as fan size goes, I guess it depends on if it sits on your desk...wait a larger fan moving faster makes much more noise. They had that problem with fighters. The outer tips of the fan is where the noise happens. Then there is total surface area of the air moved. A single fan would have less useless surface area then four small fans, but we're back to that speed thing. Noodle, noodle...
in a setup like this I'd bet the temperature delta isn't that high, so it doesn't really matter where you place the sensor. It's safer putting it on the hot side because it will respond to heat building up faster.
larger fans are generally quieter for a given air flow, significantly less wasted space.
Ya, larger cooling fans. But if you move to high speed fans, the tips can approach the speed of sound and you end up with that issue. The larger the fan, for a given speed, the faster that fan tip goes, and the more sound generated. But at these speeds, I don't think the sound curve is there.
I agree, you want the sensor on the output line, or if possible just put it in the water reservoir. Typically those sensors are potted, and thus waterproof. The main goal is preventing the water going to the torch from being too hot. Also, great video!!!
You could rewire it, so that you have one (or two) fans running continuously and the other two connected to the switching system. You could even set up an internal switch so you could switch the two pairs, so that one set isn't running all the time. Nice mod.
That is a really great suggestion.
Wait.. If your welding hand is cybernetic and demonstrably can cool down stuff you touch, why do you need a water cooled torch?
I toght just the same thing, maybe he'll make a cybernetic hand D.I.Y. for us some day :D:D
Everyone who TIG welds needs a cybernetic hand XD
He is left handed.
It's just so he doesn't have to sit on his left hand and make it numb to uh, um......
OH shi........
Just gotta say, I really appreciate the "got it for free" disclosure. Good on you man
"Coolant change recommended annually, but I'll probably just do it the old fashioned way...."
Circuit Monkey america expleeen
@@fabuncian1386 Annually = Anally.
TDPEquinox Productions i thank you.
@spinthefastest lol
One of his best jokes
Man I just bought a table-1000 and it's the coolest table ever
Not ONE zip-tie. Color me impressed!
Honestly with those fans it feels wrong seeing them not ziptied
just some bailing wire. that's what people used before zip ties.
That water leak gag >_
I swear I laughed a little too hard at that.
funnee
haha I actually gasped when that happened
We were modding a Cessna 182 windshield and one was drilling between the door on the 'A' pillar...Looked exactly like the same thing :-), but for real, and 100LL aircraft fuel.
Who would have thought the fuel line ran there from the wing to the engine?
And of course, the boss comes out smoking his cigarette, "why does it smell like fuel in here? And what is this 10' puddle on the floor?"
I wish people would always timestamp whatever they're referring to, so here it is : 24:18
This Old Tony, Very COOL! 😁
Just an FYI, every 3db of change either increases (doubles) or decreases (cuts in half) the volume you hear.
I came here with the intention of expressing a similar sentiment. 😁
I've always worked under the assumption that humans perceive a 6-10dB increase as being twice as loud
@@Nomnivore7531 i think the 3dB increase is a doubling in pressure
@@vwertix1662 3 dB is a doubling of SPL or signal amplitude. I think 6 dB more SPL and 10 dB line amplification is double perceived sound, or maybe the reverse. I've read 6 dB and 10 dB before and remember having an "Aha!" moment about why there were two different answers, but I'm not sure which was what.
Yes 3dB is 2x the volume but you have to go 10dB up for the human to hear it as 2x the volume.
So with fans bigger is always better. One big fan will push far more air far quieter than 4 small fans of a similar size. Always go as big as you can, giggity. The downsides being reliability, if one fan breaks you're looking at 75% cooling vs 0% cooling, and how uniform the airflow is which won't matter to pretty much anyone. Fan noise is mostly related to fan rotation speed, a 200mm fan might rotate at 300rpm vs a 100mm fan at 3000 rpm. That's the difference between putting your ear against it in a silent room and having a constant hum. If you can't change the size, more fans at a slower rotation is also a good way to go. My computer would have 8 fans, for example, all turning barely above their stall speed. That makes it absolutely silent in the dead of night with my ear against it. It also means when a fan died 2 years ago I've still not needed to get a new one and the sound is still very very quiet.
Also quality makes a difference, mostly for noise. The airflow is less of a factor but there is a slight difference. Arctic fans are poor quality. The main difference is in bearing type. The bearings your fan has are sleeve bearings, very quiet at first but quickly rubs away the oil and becomes the noisiest. Ball bearings start off louder but are pretty consistent and are a great choice for anything but very light usage or regular replacements. Sleeve bearings are the cheapest. Fluid dynamic bearings (FDB) are the best of both worlds, using clever engineering to use an oil bearing but not lose effectiveness. Because the technique is patented it has a significant cost increase but they are my favourite. Non patent editions exist like rifle bearings but vary in performance usually just wanting the FDB market but with sleeve performance.
Finally the fan shape makes a difference. Stepping away from the super intricate details and selling points, the important facet is the size of the blades vs the number. A higher number of small (thin) blades pushes a lot of air but can't handle pressure (restricted flow ie radiators). A lower number of large (wide) fan blades are less angled thus less flow but work far better for radiators. Large blades work with everything so are a safe bet, but if used correctly small blades can have double the flow (or more) for the same noise. A rule of thumb is larger blades for the way in to fight never-changed dust filters radiators and the intended overpressure, smaller blades on the way out as the air should be pressurised and already running out with nothing to resist it. Sometimes you'd want large blades for both like front and back of a radiator. Small blades for both is rarer. There you have the crash course in fans, more than you'd ever want to know.
Bigger = quieter is true wisdom for equivalent voltage electric fans. You’ll get a lower RPM for a given voltage.
For fans that share a motor shaft that’s doing other stuff, it’s less clear. Given sufficient torque, if he swapped out the stock fan on that motor for a bigger one it would actually be louder. When the RPMs stay constant, bigger = louder.
(just adding some color on mechanically-driven fans)
It’s a year late, but might I suggest fans with mag-lev bearings in them. I grabbed some Corsair ones for my rig and they’re fucking amazing. Actually, Corsair might have a patent on that and I don’t know if anyone else makes them but still, they’re amazing.
@@Yomom12388 Yea, I'm a little dated on fan technology to be honest. When I last looked the hydrodynamic bearings were the new hotness, and tons of companies were installing fakes to avoid paying on royalties. They didn't seem to understand the principle of them, though. Maglev in theory sounds perfect, but in reality the bearing noise is typically a very small part of the noise. The much worse is the fan shaping, turbulence, and the pressure wave interactions between fans and struts. Those get far worse with fan speed though so more and bigger is still always the solution.
@@roippi3985 My argument is more for equal cooling requirements, bigger and more is quieter. After all the cooling requirements are the constant we cannot change. Fan voltage, RPM speeds, and everything of that nature is merely a consequence of cooling requirements and help understand the trend rather than a variable we are free to change.
@UnknownPlayer I mean I work in physics so I didn't need a whole lot of research for it all. Its something I did a while back, it would have irritated me if I did it wrong. I'm glad it has helped people understand cooling more, it seems an area which isn't explored very well so a lot of people seem to be completely lost regarding the best strategies.
My wife says i'm easily amused. Maybe watching a warrantee be voided confirms that.
Can you actually void the warranty on a free thing? 😀
@@DavoShed Why not?
@@@ClaudeSac Well I suppose you are right.
Although if you send it back they could say "Thank You, you can have your freeness back"
3 months since I watched this video I can't remember what part of the project was free :)
@@DavoShed Bwahahahaha!! I am appalled that this certain thread didn't get a lot more pooping your pants/p'ing yourself actions converted into verbal responses here!
Just for future reference Noctua make the best fans for low noise high performance and reliability. the NF-F12's are basically the best PC fans on the market.
But they are fucking ugly....
Best fan, worst price.
Who thought that 2 shades of turd brown was a good colour for a fan? Like yeah, they're in my case, sure, but I can still see the pastel poo fan blades spinning.
First thing I thought when I saw them arctics, they do more colours other than poo now too
@@MrJizzy181 Well at least they are making them black as well now ;)
I just lost a hand thanks to your experiment of lighting my hands on fire. Thanks Old Tony for the lesson learnt. You are a great educator :D
17:52 The PC fans with more blades are generally optimised for airflow rather than static pressure.
IIRC, you want fans that are optimised for static pressure when pushing air into a heatsink or radiator.
Yeah but I think the original fan also isn't really optimized for static pressure, because its completely loose inside the enclosure so it probably doesnt create much pressure.
I think the radiator surface area makes up for that.....
It depends on both the fan and the radiator. Sure, a normal cpu radiator needs a pressure-optimized fan because its fins are so close together. This radiator here doesn't really need that because the fins are what, 5-10 times further apart compared to a standard cpu cooler, maybe more. And you can take that even further, look at audio equipment and such with radiators that don't need a fan, their fins are often more than 1cm apart (and much thicker for some reason)
@@Bllinker True.
It’s a draw thru, not push through. Plus, did you see that heat exchanger? No pressure needed for that one lol.
To cool a radiator, the proper arctic fans would be the P series (P120 in your case), for the increased static Pressure
The iPhone clips on the microphone at around 87 dB. Anything louder than that will read as 87 dB.
But that's not an iPhone
That was definitely an Android. You ever heard of an iPhone with a back button at the bottom?
all phones use the same microtones iPhones are only overpriced
Not sure I like that one minute delay... seems backwards... like, run for one minute after we reach the low threshold.
I do not have that stc-1000 but I do use a PID that is similar and at least on the one I own all of those parameters can be changed.
Though to find out what can be changed and how to change it I had to go digging through the internet as nothing was included with the device. It may be an industry standard to make these devices as cryptic and mysterious as possible.
Aaron Anderson Well that whole time the water is still transferring heat to the cooler, and when you consider the duty cycle the minute wait shouldn't really be detrimental overall. My only concern is whether or not the pc fans move enough volume of air compared to the stamped fan it came with. They'll only move about 200cfm combined whereas the original probably moved several times more air.
It probably keeps the fans from cycling on and off if the temp is right at the threshold.
I think the delay will be a problem , a Tig torch running at 200+ amps generates A LOT of heat and one minute is a good deal of temp rise before the fan finally kicks on. The only way I see him being able to get by with that would be if the thermal mass of the water can absorb that much energy without significant temp rise in a minute, but I don't know how much water that thing holds and I don't know the exact amount of heat a torch generates so It would be a wild ass guess.
Anyways I'm sure there is a way he can configure the delay to be less, that would be an odd restriction.
Or just set the start temp lower than ambient if you know you will be doing 200A so its always on.
Got me good when the water came back through that freshly drilled hole Tony geeze! Course I knew better, but still very funny and informative so thanks!
There is no better way to learn than with humor😉 it’s proven.
As a former industrial welder fabricator...I enjoy your videos and admire your knowledge also your craftsmanship...thank you for your videos.
thanks!
These videos are awesome. Unreal how well done they are. Informative, fun, easy to watch, entertaining.... gotta be some of the best stuff ever
Hey Tony, those F12 case fans have an external PWM input signal that is used to vary the speed of the fan. I'd recommend buying a PC case fan controller that has an external thermistor and PWM fan control. Or you could just whip something up with and Arduino. Bang-bang temp control is ugly and noisy...
*Correction* later in the video I see those are 3 wire, not 4 wire, so no PWM input. You can still vary the speed of 3 wire fans with PWM, but the control isn't as fine-grained as 4 wire (2 of the wires are power, 1 is tachometer feedback, 1 is PWM input).
I always wondered why there were so many wires. Not enough to actually go find out, but im glad you cleared that up for me!
Usually, it's the CPU fan that has that 4th wire, so that you can throttle it according to the CPU load.
Three wires do give you PWM control; four wires have an encoder that returns data *from* the fan, to give feedback to the controller (tells it how fast the fan is actually turning).
@@BradHedges no, you got it backwards. 3 wire fans report rpm, the 4th wire is for speed control (all PWM fans have rpm reporting, at least for PC style fans). We could discuss why all pc fans with PWM also have rpm signal (it's the economy... ), but it doesn't matter - the industry standard says the 3rd wire is RPM signal, and the 4th wire (if it's there) is PWM RPM control.
Nice video! The STC-1000 is extensively used in homebrewing to turn on a fridge when the fermenting beer gets too hot (or turn on a heating element when the beer gets too cold!). Too bad the delay time is 1 minute. An arduino solution would've been better, but the line voltage fan would be the most ideal option.
Thanks for the video
I’m a grown man and a little embarrassed to say the doodie cycle joke caught me off guard and is responsible for my first TH-cam related spit take 😂
I missed it. Where was it at so I don't waste another 30 mins..
4:06
I caught that and LOL'd til I peed my pants.
Being extremely new to the idea of learning how to weld, I will say that I never knew such a beast existed. Having seen this and having a rather lengthy computer tinkering background, I can tell you that this is not much more than a water cooling setup for a computer on steroids. I am relatively certain that one of these can be built from scratch, that would move water more efficiently, and quietly for a fraction of the price. The build that I would be referring to most likely would not work too well in most professional environments, but for the weekend warrior, like I am hoping to become, it would be more than adequate. But with this being gifted to you, you definitely can not beat the price of free. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!!!
Nice clip, well done! In my job i'm constructing lots of heating and cooling control systems, mostly as a retrofit as you did here.
Some remarks:
The thermo couple is getting cooled by the windchill from the fans, so it should be insulated to get a reliable measurement.
Use a controler with two relais, one for the fans and the 2nd one for temperature alarm. Wire the 2nd one to the existing buzzer.
Use normal instead of destilled water if you don't have the recommended antifreeze. If there is any aluminum in the waterlines, it will corrode immediately. The copper in the heat exchanger also doesn't like destilled water, but it will last longer than aluminum.
And i have to agree to my preposter: If you have the time, fun and passion - and you don't get a cooler for free - it's really easy and cheap to build. Last but not least: If you are a technical freak, use an analog output on the controler and variable speed fans 😂
Thisoldtony made my eyes bulge for a second when I saw him drill the case and saw water come out. Jesus!
Jesus is name of the Son of God....
@@johannienel1 stop lying
@@johannienel1 well said
Cool. I didn't know Hypertext Transfer Protocol could be used for cooling or welding. Wow. Virtually unreal. Now, about HTTPS:// ...
Also, the Lambourghini dealer asked me to tell you that they're not sending you a car for Christmas... They're afraid you'll make it into a tractor.
WhereWhatHuh 😀 Lamborghini also build tractors
Exactly.
Lamborghini started out as a tractor company. They still build industrial equipment.
Joseph Erwin 🤣 rich farmers scoff at John deer in their Lamborghini tractors
I have a similar controller and this applies:
Long press power 5 seconds to enter the main menu settings, press the + - toggle P0 ... P8. Press set to store. 5 seconds of no key activity exits settings menu.
Code Code Description Setting range
P0 Cooling /Heating C/H
P1 Hysteresis setting 0.5-15
P2 Highest setting upper limit 110
P3 Lowest setting upper limit -50
P4 Calibration +7-7
P5 Delay start time 0-10 Minutes
P6 High temp alarm 0-110
To restore the factory settings in run state, long press + and -.
Mine isn't identical but maybe they have the same or similar settings? It appears yours is set at 3 degrees for P1 (Hysteresis). Thanks for the video.
With this type of info (useful info for those with that particular product,) I recommend you find out your controller exactly, find the main discussion site/forum for that particular controller and share this info there.
You will save countless hours in Google searching for some poor souls out there.
I ve been watching ur vids for a while now but, is it just me or when did ur sense of humor become so colorful...I enjoy all ur content serious or not..taking apart stuff is all I ever wanted to do in life. U are truly inspiring Tony.
I'm a mechanical engineer who specializes in refrigeration and hydronics. You answered my first question about motor cooling at the end. Second question why not insulate thermocoupling we usually sweat a piece of pipe on for it to slide in and wrap to avoid external temp. to affect it. But I love your video and will be doing similar project from scratch. Sorry htp. You do have great products it's just I have my own production shop and will be making a chiller style torch cooler. Keep up the great work.
Had a car one time that made wind noise thru the drivers window. Drove me crazy. Took it back to the dealer and guess what he said? Well, just turn up the radio....Maybe you need a bigger radio.
Bob W
cheap car, expensive stereo - works for me!
"I don't want to end up with the music in me..." Emerson reference...."
Most men live lives of quiet desperation and die with the music still in them."
I was wondering if that was a Stevie Wonder joke or something! Thanks for the reference
Well done, ma'am! A true statement, indeed.
I think that was Thoreau
@@tehrater480 - Actually, it's neither, although it's frequently (mis)attributed to Thoreau (never saw it attributed to Emerson before). It's actually from Oliver Wendell Holmes' The Voiceless: _"Alas for those that never sing, but die with all their music in them."_
"doodie cycle" Thanks for the coffee spew!! Great video Tony!
I take umbrage at un needed fan noise. So in 1991 my 1990 ish Millermatic 250 got a thermoswitch glued to the transformer. Awesomest mod! The fan never ran unless I was really welding something stout. I was pretty conservative on the temp. Around 100˚ F.
I did the same thing a couple years ago to a cheap chinesium VFD. For a little device, it made a bunch of annoying noise that I didn't want to hear. A themoswitch got jammed between fins on the heat sink. This time I added a 500 Ω resistor across the thermoswitch which passed enough current to run the fan at low, near silent speed. The VFD is on my lathe. If I run it for some time or load it warms up enough the fan will come on full. When you stop the lathe it goes right back off after a minute.
Yay.
The rotating cooler pushing the 2.5 ⭐ review to the side was fantastic. I've seen all your videos countless times and find new things to enjoy every time I watch.
Your corded angle grinder always sounded a lot louder...but it's only *2-3db* higher. Umm, isn't 3db exactly twice as loud?!
It doesn't *sound* twice as loud. The power is doubled.
Has to be 10dB higher to sound twice as loud.
I SAID THAT IT HAS TO BE 10dB HIGHER TO SOUND TWICE AS LOUD!!!
*WHAT DID YOU JUST SAY?*
Corded spins faster and seems to have a lot more high pitched drivetrain noise, it's like 7500 for my cordless vs 12000 for the corded. Probably needs some grease in there
Yeah, it's probably the frequency that gives the impression of higher noise.
db is not linear its log
You are the BEST of all Tonys.
Is there a Tony citadel in deep space? Can I be his morty?
Tony-1000
You mean the Tonyest Tony!
He's more Tony than Tony the Tiger!
:-(
Is that a gazillion in metric or imperial ?
both
MiggyManMike yes
Okay.
lowercase g, that'd be metric.
It's a little-known fact that metric and imperial have two convergence points. The more commonly known is -40, the other is a gazillion.
Love the sight gags in your videos. Wonderful cinematic work! Takes "talk to the hand" to a whole new level!
I must say, your sense of humor is awesome. How you add subtle things in your description and explanations not to mention visual effects that makes these videos very enjoyable to watch.
Great video as always Tony!
1) 3db = twice as loud. So 1 db is discernibly louder (re your angle grinders).
2) Different frequencies sound louder to the human ear even though they are the same loudness (db). So, perhaps your corded angle grinder was outputting higher frequencies which you perceive as louder.
3) Re #2 you can account for that by measuring using A-weighting on the phone if the app has it, or buy a sound level meter which has it.
4) You should be a bit more Tony when measuring your angle grinders by ensuring the noise output part (spinning disc? Motor?) is the same distance from the mic / phone (you were a bit lackadaisical on that in this video!)
Oh, so we weren't good enough for you?!? You just *had* to go and *buy* yourself some fans...? ;)
These new fans are quieter.
I've got to get to a million SOMEHOW!
Harbor freight water pump-40$
Marathon 1/2 hp motor-60$
Amazon radiator-30$
Tubing/fittings-10$
Something to hold water - probably free
..next weekend project in the works lol
bdub z Don't bother with the HF pump, it's junk (been there with my own homemade beer fermenter chiller, spend a few bucks on one meant for an RV, instead)
That HF pump isn't going to cut it, look on Craigslist for an old carbonator pump from the beverage industry. If you can get the whole assembly you'll have a decent water tank too.
Armchair Pilot the 12v harbor freight transfer pump lasted me two years of farming, I watered thousands of chickens From 55 gallon drums in the back of my pickup. So that's not bad I still have it, it works fine.
Case off it looks very very similar to a household dehumidifier (which WOULD give slushie like results since they have freon /R-134/etc in them) which are often just thrown away. I'd use a circulator pump (meant for like baseboard heating) since they are extremely reliable and designed for cycling.
TIG cooler pump is very special - it's a high pressure / low flow type. You only can find such pumps in beverage industry and they are pricey. Any other type of pump will work in less than optimal mode and will not last long.
Decibel is a logarithmic unit for measuring sound pressure, it is not a linear unit. Therefore 3db is almost doubling the perceived sound level depending on the weight filter used. Great video by the way.
Mate, you are hilarious and very informative.
I'm a 48 year old Australian and find myself giggling often watching your videos.
Good job 😀
Your attitude is more realistic than others.
You should realy try putting rubber dampers on the motor mount and do an comparison of it!
ha, i actually did that and edited it out. vibe mounts pushed the motor too high, wouldn't fit in the case anymore!
Alright, how much of a difference did it make tho? It should make some difference even if you got like 3mm rubber?
The "doodie" cycle is without a doubt one of your best, cracked me right up good job old Tony.
*Me thinking* "You're gonna hit the water tank with that drill. Yep! You....wait...you did that just to get us going.." lmao that's great.
Your wife is the most patient person I’ve never met. You are incredibly lucky to have her. Don’t mess it up.
Great vid and Mod Tony.
You could maybe sit the motor up on vibration absorbing material to stop it reverberating through the chassis.
Also you could press small copper pipe through the heatsink fins of the more case if the motor gets too hot.
I'm not too sure if i missed it, but i didn't see you putting them gears from last week in :/
I was thinking the same thing, get on your job tony!
working on it!
I knew it Tony is Santa Claus. They both sound the same and both have the same wedding ring 🤣
ho ho ho
I copyrighted "Slurpo". I'll be expecting my royalty check on February 31st.
TOT I love your video's, no face and you bring idiocracy to its best. (Mistakes that I have made in the past could have been avoided with your guidance). You show all of the mistakes that you and I have made and how to combat them. Or your show all of them so that other people can learn from them. Thank you for your time and effort. Your are so awesome. I have been needing to make a tig torch cooler for my tig for so long. I don't wanna spend the money and have been using my watercooled tig torch for ever. That being said. I just feed it with a water hose and the waste line goes out the back of my garage. Keep in mind though I just use my tig once in a blue moon. So it doesn't hurt my water bill. I would love to have this setup. Keep up the good work.
Damn, you're absolutely right. I just scribbled "1000" on my fridge's door and the temperature inside immediately dropped by 10 degrees. Thanks for the tip
Oh, to be a fly on the wall in Jeff's office tomorrow morning.
Pray he doesnt own a swatter though. Hell pissed enough without the fly anoying him...
I wonder why I expected water to pour out of the drilled hole.
Experience?
Experience?
is Jeff out of therapy yet ?
I have several stc-1k units and you can set them so there is no delay between reading and triggering the relay. I think from memory it is option 3 if you hold down the set button.
But you have probably already solved this or happy without changing things.
Great video again
10:48 antifreeze also acts as a dielectric to help to prevent corrosion in the coolant circuit by preventing electrolytic reactions, which is one reason why it is important not to over dilute the antifreeze in your radiator.
This old tony i like your vids, very informative also very good for anxiety and stress relief keep on keeping on and longer vids/projects are welcome
I was drunk when I heard the "BUT I DI-JEST " Joke. Laffed til I was sober 😂😂😂
Hey Tony, nice gift and sweet mods! BTW, don't ya just hate it when the kids pinch the lines while your trying to pull off that Instagram worthy weld....
Abom79 !!! XD
totally the reason why I don't have welds on instagram. ;)
Or when they pinch of your IV lines!!!
@@MrUbiquitousTech RIP uncle Bob
@@ThisOldTony or anything for that matter
The 1 minute delay in the thermostat is standard for fridge Compressors so you don't start them under high pressure on the discharge side. It let's the pressures equalise before the compressor starts.
I bought one of these controllers for a brewing project and could not re-program it.
Try a Carel controller one time you will love it.
You will hate the price.
But you will love it.
With the fan, try induced draft next time it's probably quieter and definitely more efficient than forced draft.
Induced draft causes less turbulence.
Cheers Jesse.
I have a Harbor Freight parts washer I modded, that uses 2 - 5 gallon pail baffle system I designed to remove the dirt and separate the oil from the cleaning fluid. It's basically a swirl filter to remove the dirt and a septic system type baffle to remove the oil / grease. I use straight simple green and since I live in Upstate NY and don't have a full time heated garage, I run an aquarium heater set at lowest temperature (45F) in the cleaned solution pail where BTW... the I moved the pump to and leave the heater and pump running during the winter. We have had temps way below freezing and it hasn't frozen yet... With no insulation around the pails or the washer. Plus the pump is super quiet... you don't hear it run and pumps a lot of solution, I can't run it full blast without it splashing all over. I added valves to control the in and out flows based on what I want it to do... soak or wash. Now that my prototype has been working perfect, for over a year and a half, going to change it to 2 - 10 gallon pails.
You could use the same setup... The parts washer uses a small submersible pump. You could use the other side of your temperature sensor, and tap off one leg of the 220 to power them. Or just run a 110 cord to power them. Once the temp gets to freezing, the heater and the pump turns on.
I think I'll get that temperature control you have and and add it to my system so I don't have to leave it running 24/7 during the winter just in case it drops below freezing... We have had weird weather lately... one day 50 next day 20.
The reason why the corded angle grinder sounds so much louder even though your only 1 dB higher is because the dB scale isn’t linear.
But neither are your ears.
It's more likely do to the dynamic range of the phone to actually be able to receive a signal louder than that and it's also probably relate to the frequencies that each produce and the weighting of them to cal the db SPL by the phone
Decibel scale is logarithmic scale, so higher you go bigger the difference.
So that 3 decibels are much more than you think
Yes, but you're talking about a logarytmic and dB are logarithmic. Big difference...
I'm pretty sure he knows that
I came to post this. At 80, 3-4 dB extra is like double the noise.
It also sounded like a higher pitch, which is much more uncomfortable.
Entirely depends on frequency. At 3-6kHz a 3dB increase would be significant.
.
Hey Tony (if that really is your name) - Love your channel, envy your skills.
Not sure if someone already mentioned this: fan shrouds work to help decrease turbulence at the fan tips (which could be applied to the built-in aluminum fan) and thereby increase fluid (air) flow and reduce noise. Keep making awesome stuff!
Why have i JUST learned about this page this past week.
Its such gold
Tony, I just found your channel and I can't get enough! The humor you add to the videos is priceless. You've got a new long time viewer!
im not sure if im here watching u for your skills or your jokes, i love them both
The camera work is really good too. How do you get this good at machining and not suck at literally everything else? I don't know.
That thing would be great for condensing moonshine.
I use the same setup, but homemade. Could probably work as a tig-cooler
Try running the coils through a freezer. Works sweet!
Just to be clear, I use this setup to cool the water going to the condenser. Not directly for distilling. Reflux system with adjustable return ;)
Ok when you cracked the wife's phone screen i've had the best unexpected laught in a loong time, Have a subscription good sir!
Ty. The subtle bits of wit and bs are great nugget of knowledge that should be take "annually" with meals. Love it. Thanks!
Yea, the Db scale is logarithmic, so every time you go up 3 Db, it’s twice as loud. So yes, your corded grinder is in fact twice as loud as the cordless.
Sad to see such crap fan designs used all the time. A shrouded design would have been easy to make
Just look at how cheap and good pc fans are and they use a crappy piece if stamped aluminum.
coulda used a small 10 or 12 inch s-blade automotive 12volt cooling fan. Already has the shroud built in.
Sad to see these so-called "machinists" on their how-to TH-cam videos being considered "experts" and "professionals" and successfully suckering "beginners" into thinking they're anything but con artists.
Yea and a shroud would probably cut the decibel level as well as increasing the cooling by a noticeable amount. I will say in his defense that the fans are very quiet.
@@user-neo71665 Automotive cooling fans are LOUD. Could have underdriven it I suppose.
Dear "Tony" guy
Can you please stop making entertaining videos of tearing stuff apart so my husband will get back to his slavery... I mean chores.
Thanks
Mrs. Brady
John Brady dang lol
I think she means slavery and she who must be obeyed is goddess
Good gosh, we've found the This Old Tony holy grail of Dad jokes! Top shelf Tony! (And I Digest)
Digress. Oh, I get it. :)
I installed a line voltage Brush-less Cooling fan on my cheapo Harbor Freight 90 Amp Welder and significantly improved the duty cycle and cooling. It was much quieter than the fan that came with it and pushed more air through the case.
Dunno if anyone already mentioned this, as this was 6 months ago and I am only now finding your channel, but the location of the radiator intake vs output makes very little difference whether it is looped back or goes to the other end. The double-back design moves less volume but stays in the rad longer, as opposed to staying in the rad slightly less time but moving more volume, resulting in pretty much the same efficiency.
Love the channel, btw! Lots of neat stuff, keep up the good work!
I have absolutely no plan to do any welding in my future, but just love your channel. Great videos and the voice over is fabulous. Thanks for putting in such a ton of effort into tour videos n
11:45 *spits drink out while laughing*
This video is class from start to finish thanks and well done ToT
His well is finished? I don't know why I thought the well water was so funny.
had to weld tungsten carbide rods all over the place with tig, was operating consistently for hours and hours a day at 150A, we needed the water cool, and there was never any problems with it, ever.
I've watched this video several times by now, had missed the sound of the invisible torch hitting the bench every time until now, cracked me up.
First off: just found your channel, awesome stuff man. Love your videos.
Second: Why don't you bypass the temp controller for 1 fan to provide a little cooling for the motor?
Shouldn't be too hard.
Thumbs up for Buck Rogers - "Twiggy"
You mean Twiki, but dBs are now "tweaky words" :P
I forgot to mention. I've rebuilt quite a few water coolers over the years. I can say from experience, everyone I had to work on used some sort of glycol mix that gummed up the pump and other parts. They are really messy to work on after the antifreeze turns into sludge. Changing on a regular basis would be a good idea. Pure distilled water is the way to go if you can.
Better heat transfer with pure water as well.
If it gets really cold, try Arctic Diesel. :-) [No. No. No. Don't do that; it'll eat plastics and corrode copper and its alloys.]
Thanks George!
Can he still change it the old fashioned way, though?
Use Antifrogen 25 - a coolant designed for solar applications. We use it in our ultra high speed cigarette making machines for cool down our electric motors (! ) and the drives -AMK KE / KW ( !!! ) - no sludging, no corosion ...
Coolant for areas that are below freezing. WINDSHIELD WIPER FLUID works great.
That's what I've been using for years with a PROCOM Pump.
My cooler is a homemade unit. Nonetheless, that's what I found is inexpensive and works great in all temp applications.
I'm from Eastern Ontario Canada and have never had an issue with it freezing.
Methanol is very corrosive though, could damage the pump or seals.
If you go on Newegg, you can order a fan with A TON of filters which allow you to choose:
- db level
- voltage
- rpm
- CFM (flow volume)
- dimension
- LEDs (ya man, get the one with LEDs)
- type of bearing on fan