Klein used to make the Cat# K90-14/2 with a 90-degree tip which works great for getting up into a box to strip 14/2 NM. I believe they made one for 12/2 but I can't find it with my tools. Not must 14/2 is used any more so it doesn't get used much anymore.
I use a piece of an old extension cord to tap inti a electrical panel, I put a set of alligator clips onto the end that taps into the power. I find it much faster than wiring imto the panel. You also need to secure the cord with a zip tie to prevent it from being pulled lose when in use.
While it won’t do larger than 3/4”, you can get a cold bender for pvc. It’s so much faster than using a hot blanket or torch. Good video! Learned something new
Quick tip from a framer/carpenter. If you need to resize a hole with a hole saw you need to do two things. 1- Take the hole saw you need to use to resize with, and find a scrap piece of wood to make a guide block. 2- Clamp the new guide block in place and, I can’t stress this enough, run the hole saw IN REVERSE at first. You will create a shallow kerf channel that will allow the hole to be cut cleaner. The guide block prevents a potential wandering hole saw, and the reverse start creates that safe starting point for the hole saw to cut easier. If you are patient enough, you can cut the hole all the way through in reverse. It will take a bit more force though.
your temp drop cord needs a 4S box, and a GFCI in an industrial cover. it also needs to not have the nuke and ground twisted together. then if you want to get fancy, get a chinese finger trap strain relief and set it on the panel end. and hey, presto, you have an official completely compliant temporary power installation.. I usually make them with 12-3 UF and use a 2 pole breaker and two GFCIs, though. never had an inspector complain.
Good tool suggestions. I learned some things from your video. But if you could eliminate the (unnecessary) background music, it would be much easier to hear what you are saying.
Nice list. The only one I was unaware of was the ground rod cap...great idea. My temporary receptacle is an 1110 box/cover with a short length of BX (armored cable). The breaker finder is good but much more useful if you can find one with adjustable sensitivity. The stapler is the only item I would forego since I don't do much Loomex (Romex) work (and speaking of that, was that paper inside your cable? In Canada we only have the bare ground wire inside our non-metallic cables, aside from cabtire). I would add step bits to the list instead...very handy for steel stud work.
Most new 12/2 and 14/2 in the US has paper covering below the plastic outer sheathing, and another paper layer over the bare ground wire. Im not exactly sure of the function of the paper, myself. Thanks for your comment!
that breaker finder self adjusts. I got one last year, and i have about a 95% success rate with it. also, the paper in the cable is just to keep things from sticking together.
when the ground rod hits a rock, I get a small clamp and clamp the trigger on the rotohammer, then adjust the speed control so it doesn't bounce itself off the rod and go do something else for a while. with some models, you can stick a pair of linemans pliers in the handle and hold the trigger.
For residential i suggest a klein et 450 its a hot toner that lets you trace wires even in cement. That 200 dollar investment paid for itself very quickly in time.
It's slow as fuck if you have a lot to do. I've got some heat guns from when I worked in a foundry (they tossed em cause the ceramic tubes had some cracks). They'll ramp up to 900F. You have a high / low setting and a high / low fan setting, and then a damper on the intake, so you can adjust actual heat. They're absolutely amazing for doing PVC. Especially on equipment where it requires a hell of a lot more than simple bends.
@ObservationofLimits I've always found heat guns more limiting. A good blanket in good condition gives me a much smoother bend, and for compound bends, i can just step it down the pipe. Addendum: I've had cold days when a heat gun just couldn't get enough heat into the pipe without scorching it.
I still have my greenleee ratchet set, but I also carry a milwaukee cordless, and I keep a pair of P&R bits in the cordless set for the pilot hole. I've also upgraded from my ratched cable cutter to an M-12 cable cutter. partly because I hit a messenger wire with my hand cutter and the M-12 was the same price.
I hesitate to buy the cable stapler, because it multiplies the cost of stapling, but I might eventually buy one for crawlspaces. on the other side of the coin, I carry an M-18 framing nailer in the truck. it makes adding blocking a heck of a lot faster and easier.
That ground rod driver is also useful for concrete form stakes and there are driver bits that are for the 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 hex for air and electric jackhammers and there is a Hilti shank that is similar to the SDS max on their demo only hammers. But they easiest to drive a ground rod is with that sledge hammer target you have and s mini excavator with a plate tamper yes it takes to people but it goes in shale easy .
How old are you. You don't seem old enough to have an electrical company. Not sure where your from but here you have to be a working journeyman for over 2 years before you can even start your own. I have seen every tool on the list, but still a good video. Thanks
I am 22 years old, completed my apprenticeship requirements in North Carolina in November ‘23, and Passed my License Exam first try in January ‘24. I started Palmer Electrical in February, and just do simple residential service work while I learn to run a business🤙🏻
@@PalmerElectrical GOOD FOR YOU YOUNG MAN!! That is very admirable. Where I am you are not permitted to hold a contractor license until you have Been a full Journeyman for over 2 years. I wish you all the best in your business and career.
that breaker finder is designed to sweep the entire panel, and adjust its own sensitivity until it zeroes in on one breaker. I've got about a 95% success rate using it.
I have the same breaker finder and honestly did not know that either. Thank you so much for sharing. I can not wait to try that next time I get a hit on more than one breaker!
@@lems18902 I had a situation last week where there was something in the house that was giving me a false positive on a circuit. just something to be aware of. bottom line, unless there is something that absolutely must have continuous power, turn of all the breakers it triggers on. (I define a success as getting the right breaker on the first try, BTW)
Great Video. Use them all. I appreciate your segment on the NM sheath splitting, I get a lot of service calls for niched conductors.
Klein used to make the Cat# K90-14/2 with a 90-degree tip which works great for getting up into a box to strip 14/2 NM. I believe they made one for 12/2 but I can't find it with my tools. Not must 14/2 is used any more so it doesn't get used much anymore.
I use a piece of an old extension cord to tap inti a electrical panel, I put a set of alligator clips onto the end that taps into the power. I find it much faster than wiring imto the panel. You also need to secure the cord with a zip tie to prevent it from being pulled lose when in use.
such a good video. A ton of valuable information here. You just gained a subscriber.
Great set of tools. I really like the cap for driving ground rods with a sledge hammer. 👍
While it won’t do larger than 3/4”, you can get a cold bender for pvc. It’s so much faster than using a hot blanket or torch.
Good video! Learned something new
They make hot blankets for up to 2 inch. Greenlee has a great line
If you run metallic conduit a hand held band saw is a great time saver, also good for unit strut, threaded rod, seal, tight, large drop cables, …
@@Cavett24 GVC ? What ?
Quick tip from a framer/carpenter. If you need to resize a hole with a hole saw you need to do two things.
1- Take the hole saw you need to use to resize with, and find a scrap piece of wood to make a guide block.
2- Clamp the new guide block in place and, I can’t stress this enough, run the hole saw IN REVERSE at first.
You will create a shallow kerf channel that will allow the hole to be cut cleaner. The guide block prevents a potential wandering hole saw, and the reverse start creates that safe starting point for the hole saw to cut easier. If you are patient enough, you can cut the hole all the way through in reverse. It will take a bit more force though.
your temp drop cord needs a 4S box, and a GFCI in an industrial cover. it also needs to not have the nuke and ground twisted together. then if you want to get fancy, get a chinese finger trap strain relief and set it on the panel end. and hey, presto, you have an official completely compliant temporary power installation.. I usually make them with 12-3 UF and use a 2 pole breaker and two GFCIs, though. never had an inspector complain.
Good tool suggestions. I learned some things from your video. But if you could eliminate the (unnecessary) background music, it would be much easier to hear what you are saying.
Im glad you enjoyed, and Thank You for the feedback
Nice list. The only one I was unaware of was the ground rod cap...great idea. My temporary receptacle is an 1110 box/cover with a short length of BX (armored cable). The breaker finder is good but much more useful if you can find one with adjustable sensitivity.
The stapler is the only item I would forego since I don't do much Loomex (Romex) work (and speaking of that, was that paper inside your cable? In Canada we only have the bare ground wire inside our non-metallic cables, aside from cabtire). I would add step bits to the list instead...very handy for steel stud work.
Most new 12/2 and 14/2 in the US has paper covering below the plastic outer sheathing, and another paper layer over the bare ground wire. Im not exactly sure of the function of the paper, myself. Thanks for your comment!
that breaker finder self adjusts. I got one last year, and i have about a 95% success rate with it. also, the paper in the cable is just to keep things from sticking together.
Damn imma add that hot stick to the list of 300 items i want😂
Small fence post driver works well for ground rods too.
when the ground rod hits a rock, I get a small clamp and clamp the trigger on the rotohammer, then adjust the speed control so it doesn't bounce itself off the rod and go do something else for a while. with some models, you can stick a pair of linemans pliers in the handle and hold the trigger.
For residential i suggest a klein et 450 its a hot toner that lets you trace wires even in cement. That 200 dollar investment paid for itself very quickly in time.
That hot blanket is sick, I didn’t even know that was thing I always assumed you would just use a heat gun 💀
I've been using a blanket for years. they also work great on burritos, if you wrap the burrito in foil.
It's slow as fuck if you have a lot to do.
I've got some heat guns from when I worked in a foundry (they tossed em cause the ceramic tubes had some cracks). They'll ramp up to 900F. You have a high / low setting and a high / low fan setting, and then a damper on the intake, so you can adjust actual heat. They're absolutely amazing for doing PVC. Especially on equipment where it requires a hell of a lot more than simple bends.
@ObservationofLimits I've always found heat guns more limiting. A good blanket in good condition gives me a much smoother bend, and for compound bends, i can just step it down the pipe.
Addendum: I've had cold days when a heat gun just couldn't get enough heat into the pipe without scorching it.
I still have my greenleee ratchet set, but I also carry a milwaukee cordless, and I keep a pair of P&R bits in the cordless set for the pilot hole. I've also upgraded from my ratched cable cutter to an M-12 cable cutter. partly because I hit a messenger wire with my hand cutter and the M-12 was the same price.
I hesitate to buy the cable stapler, because it multiplies the cost of stapling, but I might eventually buy one for crawlspaces. on the other side of the coin, I carry an M-18 framing nailer in the truck. it makes adding blocking a heck of a lot faster and easier.
y
You made a very thorough video thanks.
I like the way you have the temporary Power point is good for exprried electricians to use
Great list!
Very solid video, for your receptacle I prefer just getting an extension cord instead of Romex
I soak the ground rod base with water to soften up the soil I can drive a ground rod in Texas clay with a 2 pound hammer and a little water
That ground rod driver is also useful for concrete form stakes and there are driver bits that are for the 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 hex for air and electric jackhammers and there is a Hilti shank that is similar to the SDS max on their demo only hammers.
But they easiest to drive a ground rod is with that sledge hammer target you have and s mini excavator with a plate tamper yes it takes to people but it goes in shale easy .
Just cut the male end off an extension cord and put a tri-tap on it for temp power to the panel.
Good Idea 👍🏻
They make a jackhammer bit for ground rods too. If you have ever wanted a jackhammer.
i could probably see putting electrical tape on the spreader to not damage the paint on the link.
Was a toddler holding the tools? The tools looked huge.
I do wear size small gloves, haha
How old are you. You don't seem old enough to have an electrical company. Not sure where your from but here you have to be a working journeyman for over 2 years before you can even start your own. I have seen every tool on the list, but still a good video. Thanks
I am 22 years old, completed my apprenticeship requirements in North Carolina in November ‘23, and Passed my License Exam first try in January ‘24. I started Palmer Electrical in February, and just do simple residential service work while I learn to run a business🤙🏻
@@PalmerElectrical GOOD FOR YOU YOUNG MAN!! That is very admirable. Where I am you are not permitted to hold a contractor license until you have Been a full Journeyman for over 2 years. I wish you all the best in your business and career.
Интересно. Спасибо за ликбез!;)
🔥🔥🔥
that breaker finder is designed to sweep the entire panel, and adjust its own sensitivity until it zeroes in on one breaker. I've got about a 95% success rate using it.
I have the same breaker finder and honestly did not know that either. Thank you so much for sharing. I can not wait to try that next time I get a hit on more than one breaker!
@@lems18902 I had a situation last week where there was something in the house that was giving me a false positive on a circuit. just something to be aware of. bottom line, unless there is something that absolutely must have continuous power, turn of all the breakers it triggers on. (I define a success as getting the right breaker on the first try, BTW)
Ball end?
BALL END?
We're disowning you
We really ought to label these kinds of vidoes as house mouse or commercial
Good job,Kid. I've been an electrician for 45 years. Good vid Kid, for old bastards like me. New info
Circuit break locator all the way
if you cut through the insulation, you're putting too much pressure on the knife.
Hot blanket wow
1/2" to 2" with no skips?
...
Me looking at my greenlee set with a billion sizes between 1/2 - 2"
Bruh, you should be able to nipper 6-3 by hand
Angle grinder with cutoff is a better option. Works with everything. Works faster.
aint seen anyone use any of those tools on a professional commercial jobsite for like 20 years, way outdated
Wash your hands, dude!
It’s not a cooking channel