Thank you ATOM 3D for letting us try out a less in-your-face way of sponsoring a video! What do you guys prefer? "Linus Tech Tips"-style sponsor messages or seamless integrations like this one?
You can stop certain edges from being smoothed by hitting tab to go into edit mode, shift-right clicking the edges you want to keep, then pressing shift-E & moving the mouse up until the lines you have selected go pink. Works well to stop the base becoming rounded.
to stop the subdivision surface modifier from making the bottom not be flat, go into edit mode, select the bottom edge all around, hit shift+e and drag the mouse over to adjust the edge crease. to see an effect while adjusting, you should add but not apply the subdivision surface modifier beforehand.
I use Blender for all my 3d printing design :) Here's a tip: You can add an "edge crease" factor to edges in the model to mark how sharp they are. That way they stay sharp when using the subdivision modifier!
To get a Cushwa Owl that looks genuinely low-poly while still being recognisable as an own, try Modifiers > Decimate with Mode=Planar and Angle Limit=30 degrees (2,133 faces), 45 degrees (925 faces) or 60 degrees (537 faces).
The results of the subdivision modifier would've been better had Thomas converted the polygons in the model from triangles to quads. The owl was well modeled, and there's probably a quad version out there somewhere (in a format other than STL), but STL files only support triangles, so the quads were broken into triangles. If he had gone into 'edit mode', selected all faces, and hit alt-j, the triangles would've been joined into quads, and the subdivided mesh would've retained the ordered character of the original mesh, which would depict the surface with better fidelity. (This is assuming that in this case Blender chooses to pair the triangles correctly, which isn't always true).
Thomas Sanladerer great video and thanks for bringing Blender into the mix as it’s an awesome FREE tool that offers an insane amount of tools for creating,repairing, remixing and finishing 3D models. Taking the “Blender Course” is fun and very useful especially for their sale price of $10! Again thanks Thomas for your awesome Vids and you should definitely do more Blender and or Meshmixer videos!
I'm so happy that Blender is getting more recognition lately. I have watch this program evolve since early 2000 and it is quite extraordinary what you can do with it. Seems to only be getting better.
Keep in mind Solidify is meant to make non-manifold into manifold; it basicaly makes each face two faces; not only it can produce overlaping meshes, but is also makes things hollow, you're growing a shell. But if the mesh you started with didn't had any holes, you can go into edit mode, select one of the faces, then go into the Select menu and click on Linked (Ctrl-L) and delete that set of faces to make the thing solid again. I'm not sure how to easily fix self-intersections automatically with Blender though.
Quick tip, the reason the scaling is so weird is that blender by default uses it's own "Blender internal units" which is meters. If you click on the scene tab from the right toolbar thing next to the modifiers you can change that before importing to get correct dimensions. This will also help you from potentially having clipping issues, which you can also address by pressing "N" in the 3d view and changing the near and far distance cutoff.
Speaking for myself I think your channel and content are by far the best in its field.. Other well known names lack the honesty in content. It’s very poor, outdated or incomplete. Thank you.
There are some great youtube resources if you're looking for information on either starting, or advancing with 3d printing. I just bought a CR 10 and have been absorbing everything I can. Of all these content creators, I find your vids to be the most concise, and educational. I've been bingeing you're vids for the last 3 days. Thanks for saving me lots of time and filament c:
if anyone is planning to make a "organic" looking vase in blender use the subsurf modifier to make it look more smooth, if there is some sharp edges you want to keep you will have to go into edit mode(Tab Key) and make a loop cut with CTRL + R and right click and slide the loop cut to where you want it sharper. the farther you put the loop cut away from the edge it will be smoother.
When using the remesh modifier always helps to change it to Smooth, it removes most mesh errors but you lose a bit of detail unless you use a very high octree number. Edit:NVM i just watched the rest of the video.
Blender is just awesome - it opens up the possibility of 3d printing frames for stop-motion animation, with real lights fuzzy shadows, caustics and real radiosity. Could even print the camera tripod in the right position with the correct angles for a real camera to shoot the frame!
There should be - someone in a blender forum should be able to answer that for sure. It would only be a script that is called every frame to do the export using current parameters.
Probably the biggest challenges would be dynamically generating the mounting points for moving characters and stuff (and even more so doing it in a way that won't be very noticeable and will be easy to remove in post when it's not possible to completely hide them behind stuff). And for the people actually using it, the challenge would be working out the exact offset required to match the precise perspective of the point-like pinhole 3d camera with a physical camera with complex lens arrangement, possibly off-center tripod mounting point, and huge size relative to the scene. Though, with the precise parameters of the camera, it might be possible to render a mask for the on-frame struts automatically; and for optimal results, a second set of models could be generated, with the moving/floating objects removed or with alternative mount points, with the same mounting points for the camera to provide for a clean backplate; and to save time, it perhaps could even project the mask and only keep high quality models where the mask would expose the alternative models, and have faster to print geometry everywhere else (though, an override would be good to have for shots where refractions and reflections would make the differences obvious in the parts seen thru the mask).
You've probably seen this example: Bears on Stairs vimeo.com/91711011 This was demanding enough, even using a 50 frames and a fixed camera, but a taste of what could be achieved. Yep, definitely lots of challenges especially with jitter of actors and viewpoint, and removing overhang supports. Deshaking and postproduction could take care of some of that with a fair amount of manual labour. Or entire scenes and actors could be printed frame by frame to ensure positioning. Colorizing could be used to cheat on using multicoloured printing. Would be fascinating to see a more complex movie... perhaps Aardman may have a crack at it.
The last smooth filter would probably be cool if you wanted to make a print look weathered - it immediately reminded me of worn sandstone facades and statues.
Production quality of these recent videos is amazing, Tom. Great job! I don’t want to be contrary, but as a user of Blender and Meshlab for this type of work… I much prefer Meshlab. I just don’t want viewers to discount it: give ‘em both a try. I know it is fiddly and not the smoothest-running program, but it is extremely flexible and powerful. Blender is great for the smoother realtime previewing though.
Excited to see you showing off Blender. However, I will say, Blender can really easily make bad meshes. The solidify modifier in particular will create a lot of self intersections. Cura can generally handle these, S3D goes a bit crazy dealing with them. So be sure to fix them with netfabb's cloud service or Windows10 3D builder before sharing them.
Also, keep in mind Solidify is meant to make non-manifold into manifold; it basicaly makes each face two faces; not only it can produce overlaping meshes, but is also makes things hollow, you're growing a shell. But if the mesh you started with didn't had any holes, you can go into edit mode, select one of the faces, then go into the Select menu and click on Linked (Ctrl-L) and delete that set of faces to make the thing solid again. I'm not sure how to easily fix self-intersections automatically with Blender though.
another quality of mesh adjustment you can do (especially when importing from STL) is in mesh edit mode hit X and click Limited Dissolve in the context menu.
Great video, I love blender. One of my favourites is the cell fracture add on. It is included in the official release but must be enabled. It can create a cracked owl.
A great review, a deserved tribute to a great piece of software. Thank you Thomas. 2018 heads for a terrific year with you. Happy new year Thomas. I've been a Blender user since its early versions. I'm glad you promote it this way. Really cool.
Really amazing video, Tom! Great tips as always, those blender features could come in handy. Also, the editing and filming were both very appealing and entertaining. Congrats!
The wire frame with internal model is a really cool look. I wonder if you could find a way to make the wire frame join at internal points to give it a look of inverted tetrahedrons. Also, how easy is it to model from scratch in Blender compared to other programs?
Great how to! Thank you! I would love to see more 3d printing related tutorials with blender. used blender for 3d animations long time ago, but since fusion 360 I didn't get intouch with blender anymore..
Your time lapse videos are SOOOO smooth. Is there a way, using Octoprints timelapse, to make mine look smoother like this? Is it just a matter of upping the capture rate?
Owls Everyone is fond of owls Except for mice and shrews And Simon Cowells And you know why they come for you There's owls in your dressing room There's owls in your gravy Even if you hide at sea There's owls in the navy
Nice! I'd love a filter or technique to add reliefs (like carvings in walls) to non functional areas of functional prints. Like if you print parts of your 3D printer to make surfaces that aren't functionally relevant more interesting and ornate.
I don't think there's something that's "just a filter", but if you wanna model the details in 3d, you could use the Boolean modifier to add and subtract shapes. Alternatively, if you can get the texture in the form of an image file, you could increase the resolution of the mesh in the areas you wanna add details (possibly with the help of the Boolean modifier to just add details to that part) and use that image with the Displace modifier (might need to mess with UV maps to get things the way you want, and maybe weightpaint some vertex groups to make the effect localized; or instead of UV, you could set the texture coordinates in the Displace modifier to Object, and add an Empty and select that as the object to let you move, rotate and scale the texture by manipulating the Empty). And something sorta midway between the two approaches would be to model the stuff, then increase the resolution of the area and use the Shrinkwrap modifier to deform the mesh with the stuff you modeled.
For the displace, you can also use some of the parametric textures instead of images; the colored ones can produce some interesting results with the direction set to "RGB to XYZ" instead of "Normal".
Play around with the parameters and stuff; and if you find something you like, remember to save the blend file with a unique name before trying to change stuff.
Thanks but I was thinking more in the sense of procedural generation and procedural textures. For parametric models as well so if you change the dimensions for a part, the art adapts intelligently too. You actually could designate some areas or a volume above the minimum surface of a part as "artistically" and then automatically generate UVs, textures and "fit" different shapes (like borders or bevels) in it. A mixture of just procedural generation and some of that AI based "deep dream" images just in 3D. I know it's a tall order but it would be possible to do. Of course you can do it by hand but engineers who design functional 3D printed parts simply don't do that.
Thomas Sanladerer it's like that old story.... the part itself may be cheap, knowing which part is the expensive part. There are many buttons, knowing which one to press, that's the hard part. It's get each from there. Great work, truly.
Off-topic question since I have your attention and there aren't many comments yet: I've been printing with an i3 for years now and that printer is more mod than original Wanhao. I just built a CR-10 last night for larger volumes and I'm going to cannibalize the i3 to build my first from-scratch printer. That said, I want to build a delta. What do you think is a decent kit/learning experience for delta's that won't break the bank?
Great stuff! I guess I should squeeze my nose closed and dive back into Blender after all. Worked with it more than fifteen years ago not being a 3D designer at all, and was hesitant to get back into the daunting interface now that I got into printing and also modeling, just less than a year ago.
It can be a little slow at first to get used to all the commands and stuff; but after a while, I often don't even think about what commands I'm trying to do, it's more like learning movements, I just hit the keys without even thinking about what the command is called. They need to make the beginner learning curve a little less daunting; but after a while using it, after a bit of practice, one day you'll realized you "know kung-fu" :)
Thanks. I haven't had the time to yet, but I still might jump back into it. Also thinking and hoping things have become a bit easier than fifteen+ years ago.
I personally use Blender for 3D printing all the time. I think using Blender's modifiers is a great way to quickly add style to a model. There are many other "filters" and modifiers that you can apply to a model, and the process in Blender is very good for customization. However, using Blender for modeling objects with exact dimensions can be slightly difficult. What CAD software do you use to create your models?
It's not really noticeable in the detail shots, but in the shots of you against the desk, with the owl prints, it almost becomes crimson. And the blue owl has a weird halo effect (check the start of the video) - it might be a post processing filter. Going a little further, my new year's resolution is to contribute to the 3d printing community by sharing some designs, ideas and insights from the last 6 months since i started to build and refine my own 3d printer (itself being a remix of a remix of a remix of an implementation of a Core XY)! Thank you very much for all your videos and knowledge. I've become a big fan of yours (and Joel, and Angus) ever since getting into the 3d printing world.
I'm amazed people use blender for 3D printing stuff. I was the developer who made the decision not to support CAD workflows (this was before consumer 3D printing took off), a choice I now deeply regret. My professional pride compels me to recommend against using Blender for 3D printing stuff (after all, it's my fault it sucks for that).
It works great for quickly mangling existing STL files obtained from Thingiverse, etc. I've used it several times to plug unwanted holes or removed features I didn't want on parts. Not many options exist for the Linux crowd.
Unfortunately, most stl files are a... "mesh" I mean bad wire frame. This owl has an exceptional mesh, so you can easily work with. By the way Blender ROCKS!
Thank you ATOM 3D for letting us try out a less in-your-face way of sponsoring a video! What do you guys prefer? "Linus Tech Tips"-style sponsor messages or seamless integrations like this one?
Thomas Sanladerer your way!
I genuinely couldn't tell it was sponsored. Maybe a little tag in the corner before and after the video just to let us know that this is sponsored.
It does say, includes paid promotion
Cheers. I missed it, but to be fair I was also working while listening to the episode...
Thomas Sanladerer I like the integrated sponsorship like you did it here.
You can stop certain edges from being smoothed by hitting tab to go into edit mode, shift-right clicking the edges you want to keep, then pressing shift-E & moving the mouse up until the lines you have selected go pink. Works well to stop the base becoming rounded.
Shift-E, 1, enter (just in case you don't move the mouse far enough)
to stop the subdivision surface modifier from making the bottom not be flat, go into edit mode, select the bottom edge all around, hit shift+e and drag the mouse over to adjust the edge crease. to see an effect while adjusting, you should add but not apply the subdivision surface modifier beforehand.
I use Blender for all my 3d printing design :) Here's a tip: You can add an "edge crease" factor to edges in the model to mark how sharp they are. That way they stay sharp when using the subdivision modifier!
To get a Cushwa Owl that looks genuinely low-poly while still being recognisable as an own, try Modifiers > Decimate with Mode=Planar and Angle Limit=30 degrees (2,133 faces), 45 degrees (925 faces) or 60 degrees (537 faces).
The results of the subdivision modifier would've been better had Thomas converted the polygons in the model from triangles to quads. The owl was well modeled, and there's probably a quad version out there somewhere (in a format other than STL), but STL files only support triangles, so the quads were broken into triangles. If he had gone into 'edit mode', selected all faces, and hit alt-j, the triangles would've been joined into quads, and the subdivided mesh would've retained the ordered character of the original mesh, which would depict the surface with better fidelity. (This is assuming that in this case Blender chooses to pair the triangles correctly, which isn't always true).
+Stephen Kongsle great tip!
Thomas Sanladerer great video and thanks for bringing Blender into the mix as it’s an awesome FREE tool that offers an insane amount of tools for creating,repairing, remixing and finishing 3D models. Taking the “Blender Course” is fun and very useful especially for their sale price of $10! Again thanks Thomas for your awesome Vids and you should definitely do more Blender and or Meshmixer videos!
You can actually do that right in blender! (alt-j in edit mode)
I'm so happy that Blender is getting more recognition lately. I have watch this program evolve since early 2000 and it is quite extraordinary what you can do with it. Seems to only be getting better.
Production quality is insane, luv ya Tom
Keep in mind Solidify is meant to make non-manifold into manifold; it basicaly makes each face two faces; not only it can produce overlaping meshes, but is also makes things hollow, you're growing a shell.
But if the mesh you started with didn't had any holes, you can go into edit mode, select one of the faces, then go into the Select menu and click on Linked (Ctrl-L) and delete that set of faces to make the thing solid again. I'm not sure how to easily fix self-intersections automatically with Blender though.
Quick tip, the reason the scaling is so weird is that blender by default uses it's own "Blender internal units" which is meters. If you click on the scene tab from the right toolbar thing next to the modifiers you can change that before importing to get correct dimensions. This will also help you from potentially having clipping issues, which you can also address by pressing "N" in the 3d view and changing the near and far distance cutoff.
I also feel like you should've done one of the voxel ones in wireframe... could be neat.
Speaking for myself I think your channel and content are by far the best in its field..
Other well known names lack the honesty in content. It’s very poor, outdated or incomplete.
Thank you.
the new studio looks SPECTACULAR. very nice!
There are some great youtube resources if you're looking for information on either starting, or advancing with 3d printing. I just bought a CR 10 and have been absorbing everything I can. Of all these content creators, I find your vids to be the most concise, and educational. I've been bingeing you're vids for the last 3 days. Thanks for saving me lots of time and filament c:
if anyone is planning to make a "organic" looking vase in blender use the subsurf modifier to make it look more smooth, if there is some sharp edges you want to keep you will have to go into edit mode(Tab Key) and make a loop cut with CTRL + R and right click and slide the loop cut to where you want it sharper. the farther you put the loop cut away from the edge it will be smoother.
When using the remesh modifier always helps to change it to Smooth, it removes most mesh errors but you lose a bit of detail unless you use a very high octree number. Edit:NVM i just watched the rest of the video.
You had me at "just look at how fluffy and poofy he is!" - subbed!
Blender is just awesome - it opens up the possibility of 3d printing frames for stop-motion animation, with real lights fuzzy shadows, caustics and real radiosity.
Could even print the camera tripod in the right position with the correct angles for a real camera to shoot the frame!
Is there an add-on for exporting each frame as a separate model automatically?
There should be - someone in a blender forum should be able to answer that for sure.
It would only be a script that is called every frame to do the export using current parameters.
Probably the biggest challenges would be dynamically generating the mounting points for moving characters and stuff (and even more so doing it in a way that won't be very noticeable and will be easy to remove in post when it's not possible to completely hide them behind stuff). And for the people actually using it, the challenge would be working out the exact offset required to match the precise perspective of the point-like pinhole 3d camera with a physical camera with complex lens arrangement, possibly off-center tripod mounting point, and huge size relative to the scene.
Though, with the precise parameters of the camera, it might be possible to render a mask for the on-frame struts automatically; and for optimal results, a second set of models could be generated, with the moving/floating objects removed or with alternative mount points, with the same mounting points for the camera to provide for a clean backplate; and to save time, it perhaps could even project the mask and only keep high quality models where the mask would expose the alternative models, and have faster to print geometry everywhere else (though, an override would be good to have for shots where refractions and reflections would make the differences obvious in the parts seen thru the mask).
You've probably seen this example:
Bears on Stairs vimeo.com/91711011
This was demanding enough, even using a 50 frames and a fixed camera, but a taste of what could be achieved.
Yep, definitely lots of challenges especially with jitter of actors and viewpoint, and removing overhang supports. Deshaking and postproduction could take care of some of that with a fair amount of manual labour. Or entire scenes and actors could be printed frame by frame to ensure positioning. Colorizing could be used to cheat on using multicoloured printing.
Would be fascinating to see a more complex movie... perhaps Aardman may have a crack at it.
I like the filter that make little blocks. That's amazing.
If you use the triangulate modifier and then subdivide surface it most of the time comes out smoother.
YES!!!! BLENDER!!!!!!!! Glad to see this catching on more and more. Blender is AWESOME!!
Really digging that voxel-like filter. Gonna have to give that a go.
The last smooth filter would probably be cool if you wanted to make a print look weathered - it immediately reminded me of worn sandstone facades and statues.
06:00 damn that b roll footage quality tho. Looks sick!
Production quality of these recent videos is amazing, Tom. Great job!
I don’t want to be contrary, but as a user of Blender and Meshlab for this type of work… I much prefer Meshlab. I just don’t want viewers to discount it: give ‘em both a try. I know it is fiddly and not the smoothest-running program, but it is extremely flexible and powerful. Blender is great for the smoother realtime previewing though.
Excited to see you showing off Blender. However, I will say, Blender can really easily make bad meshes. The solidify modifier in particular will create a lot of self intersections. Cura can generally handle these, S3D goes a bit crazy dealing with them. So be sure to fix them with netfabb's cloud service or Windows10 3D builder before sharing them.
Also, keep in mind Solidify is meant to make non-manifold into manifold; it basicaly makes each face two faces; not only it can produce overlaping meshes, but is also makes things hollow, you're growing a shell.
But if the mesh you started with didn't had any holes, you can go into edit mode, select one of the faces, then go into the Select menu and click on Linked (Ctrl-L) and delete that set of faces to make the thing solid again. I'm not sure how to easily fix self-intersections automatically with Blender though.
Good to see someone using Blender. It is my 3D program of choice.
This is the best video I've watched regarding 3D printing 😁😁
Honestly , this was a fantastic video. The quality is insane! Thank you!!!
Holy crap Tom you have stepped up your game inspirational even.
Enjoyed this. Thanks for demystifying some parts of Blender.
another quality of mesh adjustment you can do (especially when importing from STL) is in mesh edit mode hit X and click Limited Dissolve in the context menu.
Good jog as always. The video and audio quality are impressive. Thanks Tom !
Tom - The Last STL-Bender!
Im suprised how awsome timelapse from delta come out , fantastic !
i looked behind me to check if someone was watching cause that was too pornographic
Great video, I love blender. One of my favourites is the cell fracture add on. It is included in the official release but must be enabled. It can create a cracked owl.
A great review, a deserved tribute to a great piece of software. Thank you Thomas. 2018 heads for a terrific year with you. Happy new year Thomas. I've been a Blender user since its early versions. I'm glad you promote it this way. Really cool.
Great video, Tom... I really enjoy learning stuff especially with the high quality content yourself and Angus put out. Thanks for taking the time.
Mate, this video quality is AWESOME. =D
Thank you!
really cool video using the blender tool to create cool design it's a great idea i have to try it
Really amazing video, Tom! Great tips as always, those blender features could come in handy. Also, the editing and filming were both very appealing and entertaining. Congrats!
Print at angles so 90 degree overhangs are all at 45 so they don't need support not droop.
The wire frame with internal model is a really cool look. I wonder if you could find a way to make the wire frame join at internal points to give it a look of inverted tetrahedrons.
Also, how easy is it to model from scratch in Blender compared to other programs?
Super informative and interesting, Thanks! I’ve always been super intimidated by blender but now I’ve got some cool ideas I want to try!
Great how to! Thank you! I would love to see more 3d printing related tutorials with blender. used blender for 3d animations long time ago, but since fusion 360 I didn't get intouch with blender anymore..
Thanks Tom. looking forward to trying this!
Your time lapse videos are SOOOO smooth. Is there a way, using Octoprints timelapse, to make mine look smoother like this? Is it just a matter of upping the capture rate?
Very cool Tom!
Great video as always Tom!
Is there a way to bend a model around another? Like a face on a log?
This is awesome! Great tips and I'm really digging the B-roll. Thanks for this, man.
Anyone make a Lego filter? We absolutely NEED a Lego filter.
Emmett Turner there are tutorials for that blender lego waves is one
Owls
Everyone is fond of owls
Except for mice and shrews
And Simon Cowells
And you know why they come for you
There's owls in your dressing room
There's owls in your gravy
Even if you hide at sea
There's owls in the navy
Water bending: Nah
Air bending: Meh
Fire bending: Ugh
Earth bending: Eh
STL Bending: Yesss!!!
i love the low poly look
Nice! I'd love a filter or technique to add reliefs (like carvings in walls) to non functional areas of functional prints. Like if you print parts of your 3D printer to make surfaces that aren't functionally relevant more interesting and ornate.
I don't think there's something that's "just a filter", but if you wanna model the details in 3d, you could use the Boolean modifier to add and subtract shapes. Alternatively, if you can get the texture in the form of an image file, you could increase the resolution of the mesh in the areas you wanna add details (possibly with the help of the Boolean modifier to just add details to that part) and use that image with the Displace modifier (might need to mess with UV maps to get things the way you want, and maybe weightpaint some vertex groups to make the effect localized; or instead of UV, you could set the texture coordinates in the Displace modifier to Object, and add an Empty and select that as the object to let you move, rotate and scale the texture by manipulating the Empty). And something sorta midway between the two approaches would be to model the stuff, then increase the resolution of the area and use the Shrinkwrap modifier to deform the mesh with the stuff you modeled.
For the displace, you can also use some of the parametric textures instead of images; the colored ones can produce some interesting results with the direction set to "RGB to XYZ" instead of "Normal".
Play around with the parameters and stuff; and if you find something you like, remember to save the blend file with a unique name before trying to change stuff.
Thanks but I was thinking more in the sense of procedural generation and procedural textures. For parametric models as well so if you change the dimensions for a part, the art adapts intelligently too.
You actually could designate some areas or a volume above the minimum surface of a part as "artistically" and then automatically generate UVs, textures and "fit" different shapes (like borders or bevels) in it. A mixture of just procedural generation and some of that AI based "deep dream" images just in 3D.
I know it's a tall order but it would be possible to do.
Of course you can do it by hand but engineers who design functional 3D printed parts simply don't do that.
I wish i could triple like this video! Thank you very much for sharing this and all of the details. I can't wait to try this out.
Great guide! I knew blender was awesome, I didn't know cool stuff like this was so easy.
+Erik Lawrence If you only know which buttons to press, everything falls into place like magic 😃
Thomas Sanladerer it's like that old story.... the part itself may be cheap, knowing which part is the expensive part.
There are many buttons, knowing which one to press, that's the hard part. It's get each from there.
Great work, truly.
excellent video content ! ...also two thumbs up for the video production quality !
Some of this music makes me feel like I'm in an elevator. During a porn shoot. In 1975.
Sounds like an awesome place to be!
Off-topic question since I have your attention and there aren't many comments yet:
I've been printing with an i3 for years now and that printer is more mod than original Wanhao. I just built a CR-10 last night for larger volumes and I'm going to cannibalize the i3 to build my first from-scratch printer.
That said, I want to build a delta. What do you think is a decent kit/learning experience for delta's that won't break the bank?
now all the images in my head...
... so much hair, hair everywhere!
Greg Johnson I've only heard good things about the Anycubic Kossel Delta and it definitely won't break the bank
I ••••ing love this video ! nice one Thomas !
When I saw the thumbnail I thought "ugh ... yet another Meshmixer tutorial" ... but no ! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU :-D
Why does your cura look so much different from mine? Is that just a custom version?
Great stuff! I guess I should squeeze my nose closed and dive back into Blender after all. Worked with it more than fifteen years ago not being a 3D designer at all, and was hesitant to get back into the daunting interface now that I got into printing and also modeling, just less than a year ago.
It can be a little slow at first to get used to all the commands and stuff; but after a while, I often don't even think about what commands I'm trying to do, it's more like learning movements, I just hit the keys without even thinking about what the command is called.
They need to make the beginner learning curve a little less daunting; but after a while using it, after a bit of practice, one day you'll realized you "know kung-fu" :)
Thanks. I haven't had the time to yet, but I still might jump back into it. Also thinking and hoping things have become a bit easier than fifteen+ years ago.
Awesome video tom.
Thanks now I know how to remesh and object but still no clue how to BEND an object !!
Awesome tutorial! Thanks for sharing!
Rad. Very entertaining and informative.
Hey Tom, that was a really cool. Already plotting and scheming as to how to apply some of those filters. Cheers, JAYTEE
Very informative video! Really interesting. Great job!
love the video clear love to try the software
nice, i´ve tried the ones on meshmixer lets try blender now , so far i have only used it to reduce the poly count hehe thanks for the video
Thomas- what vendors support you? I think I heard filastruder, and obviously atom3d.
I personally use Blender for 3D printing all the time. I think using Blender's modifiers is a great way to quickly add style to a model. There are many other "filters" and modifiers that you can apply to a model, and the process in Blender is very good for customization. However, using Blender for modeling objects with exact dimensions can be slightly difficult. What CAD software do you use to create your models?
OnShape. Provided you don't mind making your model public...
What 3d printer did you use?
Thanks for another awesome video, will support you through 2018
Good stuff, nice job.
Amazing video!
Awesome video quality, Tom! The reds are just a little over-saturated, but the sharpness and lighting is top notch!
Thanks! Reds are _super hard_ to capture, next time I'll use a different, less saturated filament. Lesson learned!
It's not really noticeable in the detail shots, but in the shots of you against the desk, with the owl prints, it almost becomes crimson. And the blue owl has a weird halo effect (check the start of the video) - it might be a post processing filter.
Going a little further, my new year's resolution is to contribute to the 3d printing community by sharing some designs, ideas and insights from the last 6 months since i started to build and refine my own 3d printer (itself being a remix of a remix of a remix of an implementation of a Core XY)! Thank you very much for all your videos and knowledge. I've become a big fan of yours (and Joel, and Angus) ever since getting into the 3d printing world.
It's not something you can tweak in the camera, or perhaps use some gels in the lights or something?
Cool video, awesome content -- but wow Tom, you really should dust out your printer a little! XD @6:05
This is an awesome video. Subscribed :)
very intresting!!! Thanks!
Much thanks!
Mmm....those smooth montages...
My new year resolutions really didn't change. Still 0,2mm layer height
how are you making the wireframe model? Is it with Blender? I have seen this model printed at the end of the video, but I missed the explanations
Yes, that was with Blender.
Wireframe modifier
Yaaaasssss I love blender!!
I'm amazed people use blender for 3D printing stuff. I was the developer who made the decision not to support CAD workflows (this was before consumer 3D printing took off), a choice I now deeply regret. My professional pride compels me to recommend against using Blender for 3D printing stuff (after all, it's my fault it sucks for that).
It's probably not too late to make amends and make it better.
It works great for quickly mangling existing STL files obtained from Thingiverse, etc. I've used it several times to plug unwanted holes or removed features I didn't want on parts. Not many options exist for the Linux crowd.
Good Video Love it!
Finally Tom 😁
Sounds like there are a lot of german names under the Patreons ;)
1:22 BIG CHUNGUS
9:12 minecraft owl, obiously
Hold up? why the fUcc do you have 3 Prusa i3s?
Unfortunately, most stl files are a... "mesh" I mean bad wire frame. This owl has an exceptional mesh, so you can easily work with.
By the way Blender ROCKS!
Do a video about the wall!!!
Wieso benutzt du nicht blender 2.9?
+hansdietrich83 2.9? Blender.org bietet 2.79, kann sein, dass ich Blender schon länger installiert hatte.
ups, ich meinte eigentlich 2.79 :D
If I remember correctly, once Thomas stated that you be high or use stuff to use Blender. Happy he did....;-)
I like this video.
Video length 1337, coincidence?
For me it says 1338
Ha ha YT is so consistent. Cheers, JAYTEE
*I think not...*
+CzochiaBoll :)
Yay new printing