The role of vanilla hardware work or any skilled work of labor responsible always requires PPE glasses with side Shields. It's common sense for like thirty years. If you can't afford it, get a free interview with a job that you don't even care about or no. But try to get a tour and you might get some PPE for free to take home.
Don’t underestimate the need to bevel the concrete at the base of the railing. If it’s not beveled, water will sit in the hole that was created, and that will eventually lead to the railing deteriorating at the base.
I reinstalled rails that had cored brick at the bottom. I mixed some concrete color into the filler to match the brick, beveled the tops of the fill (as someone else already mentioned), and used painter's tape around the holes and on the posts, which made for a less stressful installation and much easier clean-up.
The only hydraulic cement you should use for this exact application is Rock-Ite. I mix it somewhat thin and it pours so much easier, like runny pancake batter. Sets in 15 minutes or less.
I come from a family of blacksmiths. When fabricating railings like these, and although this is almost as small as it gets and maybe it wouldn't be necessary but, they would make holes in both the top and bottom pieces for the pickets to go there and therefore the welding would be better looking and, more importantly, stronger.
@@Nill757 I respectfully disagree. Yes, the posts at the concret may break after some corrosion, and that's why they should not be hollow and also why in the video they give a bevel shape to the concrete so the water runs away. There are some other options but that is fine. That being said, the pickets may rot as well if not taken care properly. I've seen it quite a few times.
Mark is right about the stock this railing was made of . Off the shelf is of lighter gauge and the stock the welder uses is much heavier. The stock mark had made was much more , but will last longer providing the homeowner takes care of it by painting when needed with a good paint for metal.
The Amish in my area can do this. There's a manufacturing company that is Amish, and they do welding, sand blasting and powder coating in southeastern Pennsylvania.
Son/nephew of blacksmiths here. The problem with hollow cold is maintenance. If you don't take care of the paint, sooner or later it will have a small hole (usually near the bottom where water stays longer) and that is hard to fix. Sooner or later you will have to replace it. As for powder coating, well, here the first thing is pricing, but also durability. Yes, powder coating is supposed to last a long time, but if it's a piece that will be used a lot (as this will be) and can be subjected to scratches and so, it's not possible to repair the painting by yourself, you would have to take it out and bake the piece again. What you see in the video is, as far as I know, the best option when it comes to cost and durability.
For reference I just bought (2) 1” square solid hot rolled mild steel each 48” long for $67, hollow will rust out really quick not worth saving a few bucks in this scenario, if it were an interior railing I would consider hollow.
@@leonardhandzlik6008 unless the machine allows you to use a full metal bar (as they say in the video, they come in about 6 meters, 20 feet, long) and only twisting the portion you need, you will have to cut it before twisting. The problem here is being accurate to minimize waste so, yes, you may initially cut it a bit longer than theoretically needed and adjusting later, but as little as possible.
It doesn’t need a railing by code, but the risers being that different in their height IS a code violation. Risers on a staircase must match in height within a specific small difference (IIRC it’s a 5/8 inch difference). That top and that bottom riser are quite different from those in the middle.
@@Nill757 - no, the steps should have been corrected first, then the railing installed. Host saying the railing is not required by code was correct, ignoring what the code also requires is ignorant.
Why drop a rod iron post in the concrete any more w a coring machine and cement and setup time, when a flange w as many electroplated masonry anchors as you want and a hammer drill will do the job?
Obviously having a heavy-duty iron-forming twist apparatus is easier., but if you have the motivation, a heavy workbench, and can weld, you can cold twist half-inch square bar yourself. It's all a matter of the right technique. Search TH-cam for cold-forming or cold-twisting steel bar and you should find some good examples.
I just replaced a cement stoop with a wrought iron railing that was built in 1960 and was solid as could be, but has some rusting in the sunken posts. I looked into sandblast/powdercoating but it was at least $600 - $800 so just did my best to clean it up and now gotta figure out how to reattach that vintage beauty.
I thought so too but a second railing would be pointless at best (unable to use because fully open doors block it) or damaging to the doors at worst (idiots banging your storm door into the unecessary second railing).
That’s definitely not real wrought iron, just cold rolled or hot rolled steel. You’re not mig welding wrought iron. But the term “wrought iron” is used for decorative steel work like this. Still great and actually better than real wrought iron. Cheaper, easier to work with and easy to repair if grandma drives her car into the railing again. I know the car “just took off” on you Nana, it’s ok. Go inside, take your meds and watch Jeopardy. I’ll be done in a minute. And no, I don’t need a jacket, I’m fine.
And it’s hollow. The host criticized the prefab railings because they are hollow, but made no mention that the custom made railing would also be hollow.
Hi. I have to do the same thing at my parent’s house. How much does something like that cost, materials and installation? Just so I have an idea when looking for a contractor. Thank you.
You just can't make a perfect idea on the price because the variables at play make it vary a lot, and although I'm European, I guess that it could move anywhere between 500-1000$ something like the one in the video.
Hydraulic cement cooks off too fast. You could easily end up with it curing while you were still setting depth/plumb. And then you’d have to remake the whole thing. Except with a crooked handrail in the way.
No discussion of costs? As if that's not a factor people care about? So insulting to the viewer. Back in the Bob Vila era, This Old House was completely open about costs.
@@scaryjam8 Somehow they used to do it on that show and somehow viewers found it useful. When DIYers on youtube talk budgets I always appreciate it. Even if they live in a different area, I can adjust accordingly. We're not idiots. It's annoying on TOH how they always recommend the better quality option as if price were irrelevant. Have some respect for your audience.
@@Heraclitean Evidentially it wasn’t too helpful was it, Otherwise they would still be doing it. You can’t adjust accordingly. There isn’t a blanket “I’ll reduce or add X% to everything” to account for market differences. You still have to go and price things out for yourself accordingly in all aspects. It would solve nothing by having the prices included. You still have to do the exact same thing regardless. Furthermore does the prices being there or not add or subtract entertainment value to the show? No it doesn’t.
Why are you shocked he put it on the correct side, and why would you run the risk of the quick setting cement starting to harden in the hole before you were able to fill both holes and get the railing in?
Who painted that? That was not a professional job. It should have been powered coated. Or at least spray painted. I hop they did not pay full price for it.
Always wear eye gear with hydrolic cement. If you get that in your eye, it will harden fast and you’ll barely have time to wash it out
The role of vanilla hardware work or any skilled work of labor responsible always requires PPE glasses with side Shields. It's common sense for like thirty years. If you can't afford it, get a free interview with a job that you don't even care about or no. But try to get a tour and you might get some PPE for free to take home.
Didn't even consider eye safety, good looking out
What?
@@MacNifty Creative idea!
Don’t underestimate the need to bevel the concrete at the base of the railing. If it’s not beveled, water will sit in the hole that was created, and that will eventually lead to the railing deteriorating at the base.
Right, another reason to use a flange w masonry anchors and sink a post w a coring drill which nobody has.
I reinstalled rails that had cored brick at the bottom. I mixed some concrete color into the filler to match the brick, beveled the tops of the fill (as someone else already mentioned), and used painter's tape around the holes and on the posts, which made for a less stressful installation and much easier clean-up.
The only hydraulic cement you should use for this exact application is Rock-Ite. I mix it somewhat thin and it pours so much easier, like runny pancake batter. Sets in 15 minutes or less.
I come from a family of blacksmiths. When fabricating railings like these, and although this is almost as small as it gets and maybe it wouldn't be necessary but, they would make holes in both the top and bottom pieces for the pickets to go there and therefore the welding would be better looking and, more importantly, stronger.
Nice but the pickets never break. It’s the posts at the concrete that break after some corrosion.
@@Nill757 I respectfully disagree. Yes, the posts at the concret may break after some corrosion, and that's why they should not be hollow and also why in the video they give a bevel shape to the concrete so the water runs away. There are some other options but that is fine.
That being said, the pickets may rot as well if not taken care properly. I've seen it quite a few times.
How deep are the holes bored into the steps?
From watching how far the post went into the hole, it looks to be around 4" or so.
Mark is right about the stock this railing was made of . Off the shelf is of lighter gauge and the stock the welder uses is much heavier. The stock mark had made was much more , but will last longer providing the homeowner takes care of it by painting when needed with a good paint for metal.
Hydraulic cement expands quite a bit as it cures. Will it crack the surrounding step cement?
Matching haircuts. Brilliant.....
They probably have a secret handshake.
Lol! They're styling, anyway, lots of men have shaved heads these day. It's a good look for most men!
Luv putting those raw iron outdoor stairway fails also neat clip in beginning of the video on how there are made
How did they get the cement cores out? Ive cored curbs for weep holes and the core wouldnt come out unless we drilled completely through the curb.
The "twisted picket" sounds like a cool name for a band
What I call my mother inlaw
What about a matching railing on the other side?
Probably didn't want the door to hit the other railing.
just watch the video again
Should have put collars on the 2 post to hide the cement work...good job though
That's exactly what I need. Too bad there aren't any welders around here. Slower lower Delaware.
this was exactly what i was looking for. thx
Should paint his old railing to match the black too
That's Mauro's job. 😅
No mention of solid bar forged Wrought Iron vs. hollow cold rolled alternative costs. What about oven-baked powder coating as a finish option?
The Amish in my area can do this. There's a manufacturing company that is Amish, and they do welding, sand blasting and powder coating in southeastern Pennsylvania.
Son/nephew of blacksmiths here. The problem with hollow cold is maintenance. If you don't take care of the paint, sooner or later it will have a small hole (usually near the bottom where water stays longer) and that is hard to fix. Sooner or later you will have to replace it.
As for powder coating, well, here the first thing is pricing, but also durability. Yes, powder coating is supposed to last a long time, but if it's a piece that will be used a lot (as this will be) and can be subjected to scratches and so, it's not possible to repair the painting by yourself, you would have to take it out and bake the piece again.
What you see in the video is, as far as I know, the best option when it comes to cost and durability.
For reference I just bought (2) 1” square solid hot rolled mild steel each 48” long for $67, hollow will rust out really quick not worth saving a few bucks in this scenario, if it were an interior railing I would consider hollow.
The stairs look like cement, not concrete. Does the presence of stones in the mix (concrete) change how you cut the holes?
Good question! Too bad it wasn't answered.
Not mentioned; Exterior steps like that, located just outside a doorway without a landing, can be against code in many jurisdictions.
Actually right at the beginning he mentioned:"they're up to Code".
I Always Wanted To Be able to do this.
I wonder why you see a lot of steps like this one with two railings. You can't really use the one against the storm door.
too cool for school "When they fit, they fit." - thanks
Ice job but would have opted to have a right and a left side, looks off that the fence railing is only on the right side
Then the door wouldn’t open fully. Use your head
@@jpatrick1967No need to get snarky. He asked a question, just answer it without getting personal.
Won't twisting shorten the rail and as such it should be cut longer, rather than cut them all the same length as is implied in the video?
Of course.
Correct. But the worker knows how much the rail will "shrink" given the number of twists.
I would imagine that they would twist first, and cut to length after.
@@leonardhandzlik6008 unless the machine allows you to use a full metal bar (as they say in the video, they come in about 6 meters, 20 feet, long) and only twisting the portion you need, you will have to cut it before twisting. The problem here is being accurate to minimize waste so, yes, you may initially cut it a bit longer than theoretically needed and adjusting later, but as little as possible.
@@leonardhandzlik6008 One would think so but around the 2-minute mark they imply that all rods are cut first to 36 inches long.
Thank you!
Consider opening the door! 👍
Should tell the homeowner to repaint the big iron fence!!
It doesn’t need a railing by code, but the risers being that different in their height IS a code violation. Risers on a staircase must match in height within a specific small difference (IIRC it’s a 5/8 inch difference). That top and that bottom riser are quite different from those in the middle.
Ok, but not useful to this job. Steps are already there. And the railing should be there , code or not.
@@Nill757 - no, the steps should have been corrected first, then the railing installed. Host saying the railing is not required by code was correct, ignoring what the code also requires is ignorant.
Love to know about how much does it cost to have a raliing like this fabricated?
Fab'd painted and installed, probably $200+ per linear foot.
Why drop a rod iron post in the concrete any more w a coring machine and cement and setup time, when a flange w as many electroplated masonry anchors as you want and a hammer drill will do the job?
always best to visit a weldors shop for stuff like this. The big box stores stuff is often junk.
Fantastic job Mark. 👏 i appreciate all these educational videos. Im guessing as a homeowner i cant bend the rails myself? Gotta get a company to help.
@Daniel_yah yeah no shit Sherlock.
Obviously having a heavy-duty iron-forming twist apparatus is easier., but if you have the motivation, a heavy workbench, and can weld, you can cold twist half-inch square bar yourself. It's all a matter of the right technique.
Search TH-cam for cold-forming or cold-twisting steel bar and you should find some good examples.
Y donde lo compran porque yo eh buscado en Home Depot y no eh encontrado nada similar
This was custom made
@@mariw.4730 thanks for the info
Real smart welding without sleeves protecting your skin
leaving that post 7" off the wall of the house is a hazard for kids getting heads stuck. here that would never fly, no more than a 4" space .
I am not an expert but this will really hold up with time? The rail is heavy plus people will put their weight on it ..
I just replaced a cement stoop with a wrought iron railing that was built in 1960 and was solid as could be, but has some rusting in the sunken posts. I looked into sandblast/powdercoating but it was at least $600 - $800 so just did my best to clean it up and now gotta figure out how to reattach that vintage beauty.
I want a copper railing, but the local scrapers may steal it, so I will stick to a wooden railing.
Why don't they just fill the holes and insert the railing, so they know they have a full void. That's how we do our vinyl fencing posts.
Great job but it looks unfinished without two rails.
I thought so too but a second railing would be pointless at best (unable to use because fully open doors block it) or damaging to the doors at worst (idiots banging your storm door into the unecessary second railing).
Darkest iron shop ever
Camera forgot to raise ISO and/or aperture.
Stairs without landings should be illegal
Should had went double rail
That’s definitely not real wrought iron, just cold rolled or hot rolled steel. You’re not mig welding wrought iron. But the term “wrought iron” is used for decorative steel work like this. Still great and actually better than real wrought iron. Cheaper, easier to work with and easy to repair if grandma drives her car into the railing again. I know the car “just took off” on you Nana, it’s ok. Go inside, take your meds and watch Jeopardy. I’ll be done in a minute. And no, I don’t need a jacket, I’m fine.
And it’s hollow. The host criticized the prefab railings because they are hollow, but made no mention that the custom made railing would also be hollow.
@@stevebabiak6997 the pickets are solid. You can't get a uniform twist on hollow stock, at least not the way they're twisting the pickets.
You need a landing though
That landing is not within code
Hi. I have to do the same thing at my parent’s house. How much does something like that cost, materials and installation? Just so I have an idea when looking for a contractor. Thank you.
Last year I had one made and installed. I needed a railing for 8 steps. Total cost including installation was $800.00
We just had a left and right 3-steps railings installed for $800 total.
If you have Amish in your area, they do some really good metal work, and they don't charge as much. I would look into that if you can.
This job so small in NYC or Long Island is $1200 minimum
You just can't make a perfect idea on the price because the variables at play make it vary a lot, and although I'm European, I guess that it could move anywhere between 500-1000$ something like the one in the video.
Who gets excited about a railing?
This guy 8:20
❤
Why do these cost thousands?
A large rust spot on the picket at 2:57 . Not a great look for brand new custom made stuff.
$7,000
Why doesn’t he put the cement in the hole first?!!!!
Hydraulic cement cooks off too fast. You could easily end up with it curing while you were still setting depth/plumb. And then you’d have to remake the whole thing. Except with a crooked handrail in the way.
Should’ve called Jimmy Diresta for the fabrication
And Mauro for the paint job.
Old school😂
This is a reupload
Guy needs a deck!
A wood deck would have been a better alternative offering a better surface to lounge than gravel and moving the hazardous steps away from the door.
That railing looks like it’s suffering from a case of vitiligo.
It was painted a high gloss black and its reflecting everything around it weirdly.
😊
should have removed those "steps" and put in a proper landing. it's still a death trap.
Two of them were supposed to be installed .
No discussion of costs? As if that's not a factor people care about? So insulting to the viewer. Back in the Bob Vila era, This Old House was completely open about costs.
Cost vary wildy across the country. Any mention of pricing would be irrelevant unless you lived in the same area.
@@scaryjam8 Somehow they used to do it on that show and somehow viewers found it useful. When DIYers on youtube talk budgets I always appreciate it. Even if they live in a different area, I can adjust accordingly. We're not idiots. It's annoying on TOH how they always recommend the better quality option as if price were irrelevant. Have some respect for your audience.
@@Heraclitean Evidentially it wasn’t too helpful was it, Otherwise they would still be doing it. You can’t adjust accordingly. There isn’t a blanket “I’ll reduce or add X% to everything” to account for market differences. You still have to go and price things out for yourself accordingly in all aspects. It would solve nothing by having the prices included. You still have to do the exact same thing regardless. Furthermore does the prices being there or not add or subtract entertainment value to the show? No it doesn’t.
Only ONE handrail? Weird…..
Y'all robbed my boy Scott by not getting him a 2nd rail
Jobs for people with no hair
im shocked that he put the railing on the correct side. should have poured the mortar into the hole then put the railing in.
Why are you shocked he put it on the correct side, and why would you run the risk of the quick setting cement starting to harden in the hole before you were able to fill both holes and get the railing in?
Those stairs are illegal.
Why?
Because there has to be a landing at an exterior door. You can't just walk out of a door onto stairs.@@alittax
Who painted that?
That was not a professional job. It should have been powered coated. Or at least spray painted.
I hop they did not pay full price for it.
Looked like the coke bottle glasses were burning his retinas. Maybe get some transitions lenses my man 🤣😂
Have you always been an idiot, or is this a recent development?
Oh no a boost commercial 😢
1st !!!!!!
You deserve an arrogance 👌 award 😆
What a great human being!
God Bless you@@Daniel_yah
God Bless you@@herculesrockefeller8969
you win a 🦞 in an old 👞